Thank you for your videos and taking the time explain everything. I am currently remodeling a house that was built in 1850. I appreciate the details of your videos.
Scared me for a minute, I installed the same type of balluster railing system last week, I had the brackets on each end, I figured the closed end should be on the bottom instead of the top to help support the rail mounted to the post. I just watched this and you did yours the opposite! I thought ughhh I do not want to take those apart, so I went to the website where I bought them and they show them being installed both ways. Thank God! Nice job.
Jeff, I feel like I know you after watching your videos! Thank you so much for this great work you're doing! (by the way, anything on roofing in the future? I saw the shed video, I"m hoping for something more. I don't mean to ask, just putting an idea out there). Thank you again for all you do. you are a good man.
You must be from a snowfree state, we leave the bottom board up off the decking just under 4" as to be able to push snow off and under without having to lift the shovel. This will also allow fall leaves to blow out under too.
I bought the Dekorator set which is exactly the same rail system. They recommended the end braces be with the open top up, not down so it can act like a joist hanger. There's nothing holding the 2x4's but the 2 screws that you screwed in. I sealed both ends of the wood and ran a silicone bead on the top. Also to keep any of this to walk on you, I found starting all 3 screws in a 1/3 of the way, you can just drive it home with nothing walking on the post.
great video...i work alone a lot and use 5 ft furniture clamps to pull my deck boards straight...or 3/4 inch pipe clamps work too but flex more under load.
Thanks Jeff for all the great videos! Regarding railing posts, shouldn't they be attached to the rim joists via pass-through bolts, like carriage bolts or hex bolt, instead of deck screws or even lugs, even if they are blocked? The IRC requires that a post can withstand a force 200 lbs in every direction when applied to the top of the post. Please advise. Thanks.
Thanks for your great videos Jeff. As a contractor I find them invaluable as a teaching tool for some of my new recruits.....and hey, a few great pointers for me as well.....
Edited out knocking the top portion loose again to get the rails to fit into the hole. Edited out attaching the top brackets. Still a good video to watch
Thank you for the Video - Very Informative. How do you suggest doing 45/135 deg angle. I am guessing the cut is straight forward, but we need the appropriate bracket. Please advise?
Thank you so much for that because I was always drilling into the mortar not the brick it was because I did not want to crack the brick. But thanks again
hi, I have a small deck 10 x14', the deck is finished already and need to install a hand rail for code .and would like to install like you have. how did you install your posts? love the videos Allan
Have you seen those trex railings? Basically same set up, but they have the metal balusters and these like vinyl or trex ones... anyway, stay away from the vinyl ones they break way easy lol customer was mad about a year after doing their deck, told them not to but that's what they wanted
Thanks for your videos. In your cedar rail kit video, you say to buy it online. I'm actually in need of 4 - 8ft rail kits. Can you suggest where to buy>
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY nice job. How would you suggest mounting 5/4 board instead of brick like you show I have vinyl siding which was installed over glass stucco. This is for a stair railing .
I swear RUclips and Facebook reads my mind...I was thinking about building a porch railing because we are defacing our house partially with shiplap and here you are in my notification before I even searched ....something strange is going on....by the way I love your videos ..keep up the good work
Hi after some advice, before installing railings on a deck are the posts set in certain increments so that when the spacing is calculated between spindles they end up all the same, I can't seem to find a formula for finding the spacing to match on every rail, so if I've calculated the spacing on a 6ft rail then the next rail is shorter to turn a corner on an angle or the rail stops and starts either side of steps obviously the spacing changes, don't know if i've explained well enough cheers
Just had a thought would the posts have to be set at increments equal to the thickness of spindle and spacing so 3"space plus 1" spindle posts have to be set so multiples of 4" or not showing my IQ now lol cheers
Jeff, you’re amazing and very eloquent. Thank you for your videos. I have a question please. I live in Toronto. Im half way done laying pressure treated 2x6 decking boards on my new 15x28 deck. Using 16 ft boards. Pressure treated lumber kind of wet. Newly delivered by home depot. Im leaving a 1/16 gap between the boards as i heard it will shrink a bit. Is it true or should i re do at 1/8 gap? Thank you, great show. Javier
Javier, you will need to leave the gap as small as possible. In your situation at 30" off the ground with no skirt the boards will not stay wet from ground moisture since the air will carry that away, since you don't get much direct sunlight I would suggest1/8 gap will be fine. the other secret is to wait 3 days before installing it and it will dry out on its own. Cheers!
Your bottom board should be 3 to 4 inches above your decking to shovel the snow underneath. In the south it works just fine the way you built the decking.
Jeff, a rail post question... First of all - love your videos. Good relaxed instruction. I cantilevered my deck - the rim joist going out about 6.5 inches from the beams. In your video about posts, you have your rim joist nearly even with your beams allowing for the 2x4 at the bottom for the skirt. Well, with a cantilever, I'm kinda screwed in that regard. However, what are your thoughts about me setting the 4x4 posts to the ground, up against the rim joist, boxing them in as you instruct, to provide for a deck post and also provide a support for the 2x4 for the skirting? Difficult to describe in words; hope this makes sense. Perhaps a dollop of concrete for the post to sit in? Thanks.
The best way to skirt and overhang is to hang a box from the overhang and then run a few boards from the bottom back to the framing. Kind of like building a bulkhead in a basement. Don't go all the way to the ground so you keep your wood out of the organics so it will last. Cheers!
Can you recommend a place where I can purchase the pre-drilled rails? Online, maybe? I live in upstate NY (Syracuse) and they don't seem to stock them anywhere, locally.
Hi Jeff, I need to add a hand rail to my front door's concrete stairs and landing. Mostly I feel okay about the structural aspects of the project-to affix the wooden posts to the concrete I plan to use heavy duty metal brackets. But the thing I'm concerned about is that I'm not sure how to attach the rail to my house like you did here. I have horizontally lapped cedar shingles and thus, I can't just lay a board flat against them. What would you do in a situation like mine? I'm thinking about just adding an extra post/bracket into the concrete next to the wall, as opposed to attaching it to the house wall. But it would be great to hear your thoughts. Thanks, I have gleaned a ton from your channel!
Thanks Marco, steps are next week. We will also cover the skirting boards installation. Great tips coming next week. we will also be releasing a different style of video for the whole project at some point. Thanks for watching.
"Now that's sexy..." LOL The railing looks fantastic, however the wood looks like it's untreated. Is there any reason why you would not stain it or treat it before putting it together?
If you have a back deck like mine those rails are going to be hot enough to brand you. The only other alternative would be would. One thing that's good about a back deck that gets alot of sun is to install and 80% shade tarp over it. They sell them in a lot of garden Outfitters. Every summer we put that up and it makes the back deck very enjoyable. Without that it's just a fiery Inferno. More industrial and expensive from that would be to build an overhead shelter, but then you don't get the sun unless you put a skylight. That's why I like the tarp idea
I cant see the name of the rail kit in the video. What are the railing kit poles made out of? Also did the cedar boards with the holes come with the kit or did you have to buy them separately. Thanks
Hi Jeff, I have pulled off the old decking and the joists all look to be in good shape so I am going to re-use the PT joists. Should I worry about the old nail holes in the wood. I am going to use 5/4-4 tight knot for the new decking. I remember that you said to use 3.5" screws when putting down the new boards.....Thanks
Question for you please. As far as I remember you said always use brown screw but for the wall you used blue one. Any reason?or did I miss any hint in the video? Thanks 😊
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I love your videos. It's very satisfying to watch a pro at work. Having said that I am renovating my deck and the Yahoo's that built my deck did something I bet you have never seen. They put a ledger board on the house and didn't hange the joist from it. They have double 2x8's nailed to the OUTSIDE of the ledger board. The joist run parallel to the house and they put the decking down at a 45*. They should have hung at least one of those 2x8's to the ledger board with joist hangers right? Nothing whatsoever is attached to the face of the ledger board. Oh, and here is the best part. The ledger board is 5/8" higher than the deck frame so the deck boards had to make a bend to attach to the ledger board.
Please may I inquire as to where I can buy these pre-drilled planks and Aluminum pillars from sir? I live in NY and cannot find anywhere?? Thank you in advance. Craig.
Great video as usual! Curious though, you're in Canada where they use the metric system (to my knowledge anyway). Why do you always seem to measure things in imperial? It seems so much more difficult and less precise to say "49 and 3/8", minus 1/2" equals 48 and 7/8"", instead of like "1200 minus 15 equals 1185mm".
In Canada we use metric for driving and weather. everything regarding building remained unchanged from the 1970's when the gov't made the change. we are so tied together in trade with our neighbors that it made sense to leave that alone.
Thank you for your videos and taking the time explain everything. I am currently remodeling a house that was built in 1850. I appreciate the details of your videos.
I've found some cheap balusters at the Dollar store listed as broom handles. They fit perfectly in those deck railings with the pre-drilled holes.
Scared me for a minute, I installed the same type of balluster railing system last week, I had the brackets on each end, I figured the closed end should be on the bottom instead of the top to help support the rail mounted to the post. I just watched this and you did yours the opposite! I thought ughhh I do not want to take those apart, so I went to the website where I bought them and they show them being installed both ways. Thank God! Nice job.
Jeff, thank you so much for your videos, I just can't believe that amount of information you packed on this video! Amazing stuff!
Jeff, I feel like I know you after watching your videos! Thank you so much for this great work you're doing! (by the way, anything on roofing in the future? I saw the shed video, I"m hoping for something more. I don't mean to ask, just putting an idea out there). Thank you again for all you do. you are a good man.
You must be from a snowfree state, we leave the bottom board up off the decking just under 4" as to be able to push snow off and under without having to lift the shovel. This will also allow fall leaves to blow out under too.
I bought the Dekorator set which is exactly the same rail system. They recommended the end braces be with the open top up, not down so it can act like a joist hanger. There's nothing holding the 2x4's but the 2 screws that you screwed in. I sealed both ends of the wood and ran a silicone bead on the top. Also to keep any of this to walk on you, I found starting all 3 screws in a 1/3 of the way, you can just drive it home with nothing walking on the post.
great video...i work alone a lot and use 5 ft furniture clamps to pull my deck boards straight...or 3/4 inch pipe clamps work too but flex more under load.
Appreciate the tips for a thorough railing installation .
This is just beautiful and seems very simple to build and accomplish.
thanks for the video
Thanks dude. I know you can do this!
Thanks Jeff. Really enjoying your education! Happy Canada Day!
Thanks, enjoy today with your family as well!
Wow Jeff, it looks really good, thanks for all your videos ive learned alot with your help.
Thank you Carlos we love to help. Cheers!
Very good video and teaching methods! Thanks much!
I'm not a tall building the same type of railing but you gave me a few good ideas. So thumbs up to you
Cheers and Have a great Christmas!
Thanks Jeff for all the great videos! Regarding railing posts, shouldn't they be attached to the rim joists via pass-through bolts, like carriage bolts or hex bolt, instead of deck screws or even lugs, even if they are blocked? The IRC requires that a post can withstand a force 200 lbs in every direction when applied to the top of the post. Please advise. Thanks.
Finally someone that says process correctly!
4th time watching this video again in two days.. great job 👍
cool, me too! Cheers!
You are very good at explaining things.
Thanks Todd!
U really had me on the rails..lolol..great looking deck maxx...great job Reno Ninja
Thanks Cudda Brown, you always making me smile. Cheers!
Thanks Jeff , nice work . Thank You for the video .
Thanks Nick, we appreciate that. Cheers!
Thanks for your great videos Jeff. As a contractor I find them invaluable as a teaching tool for some of my new recruits.....and hey, a few great pointers for me as well.....
never stop learning new tricks. Cheers!
As always, nice educative video!
Thanks !
Edited out knocking the top portion loose again to get the rails to fit into the hole. Edited out attaching the top brackets.
Still a good video to watch
How about a "top 10 things for new home owners video"? Great content, this channel is addicting.
Great deck DIY tutorial!!
Thanks Justin! Cheers!
Jeff, I've looked for videos on how to repair/tighten loose composite deck railings. I'm not sure if that would make for a good video.
Hi, thanks for those videos. Can I use the same process to install a deck but directly to the floor? I'll buy a house with a Patio in the 3rd floor .
thanks for all the info i'm learning a lot from you , hope you are going to do some modern wainscoting soon :)
sure.Thanks!
Great job. Have you ever used rebar as vertical spindles to give more of a rustic look. What do you think?
Love your videos homie!
If you had used treated pine deck boards instead of cedar, would you still have spaced the wood or tightly placed them? Thanks
sheer strength would be a only consern. good videos man. clear understandable.
Not as big of an issue when you are this close to the ground.
Thank you for the Video - Very Informative. How do you suggest doing 45/135 deg angle. I am guessing the cut is straight forward, but we need the appropriate bracket. Please advise?
200 lbs? I would have guessed at least 202. Thanks for the vids. Very helpful!
Love these videos!
Glad to hear that James. Cheers!
Thank you so much for that because I was always drilling into the mortar not the brick it was because I did not want to crack the brick. But thanks again
Thanks for the great series and tips. Nice work.
Thank you, glad to help. Cheers!
Love your videos. You should be wearing safety glasses I had a palm sander explode on me one time the rubber plate came apart
hi, I have a small deck 10 x14', the deck is finished already and need to install a hand rail for code .and would like to install like you have. how did you install your posts?
love the videos
Allan
Having trouble finding a "rail kit" like yours. easy to find rods....or pre-assembled (SIX) foot sections.
Nice job.
How did you attach the corner post to the original deck support? It looks like it's sat on top???
Man, this guy is good. REAL good
Great video. Thanks
thanks Stephen
Mr.Thorman you wizard you king you clever man you super man very neat work 👍 👍you jounous you lion king of creativeness cheers
Cheers to you my friend.
If i used traditional balusters what nail gun / nail would YOU use? can I use a finish gun and achieve any kind of strength?
Great attention to details. I like the extra touches on the five quarter boards.
Thanks Curtis, only takes a minute to spice it up a little.
Great Video, thanks.
Cheers kazan0217
Have you seen those trex railings? Basically same set up, but they have the metal balusters and these like vinyl or trex ones... anyway, stay away from the vinyl ones they break way easy lol customer was mad about a year after doing their deck, told them not to but that's what they wanted
Thanks for your videos. In your cedar rail kit video, you say to buy it online. I'm actually in need of 4 - 8ft rail kits. Can you suggest where to buy>
If the deck settles or lifts while the building doesn't, won't that mess with your stair rail that was attached to the brick wall?
Very nice!
thank you!
Good job 👍
cheers!
I perfer a 3 1/2 inch gap under the lower part of the railing so it is easier to sweep, or shovel snow under it.
you do you.Cheers!
As a general contractor, I would like to say that he is the one of the best in the trade.
Where can I get a kit like this? I can't find them anywhere
Can you end the series with a bit on how to sand and stain a deck?
we did that video last year.
Where did the pre drilled bottom and top boards/kits come from?
word
thanks
I would want a bigger sweep gap. To blow off or sweep. :)
Nice work
Thanks Dan. Cheers!
First! Great job. Keep the quality content up. :)
Thanks Jason, we really appreciate hearing from everyone, this helps us get better. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY nice job. How would you suggest mounting 5/4 board instead of brick like you show I have vinyl siding which was installed over glass stucco. This is for a stair railing .
No snow gap under the bottom rail? (So that you can shovel snow under the rail)
where we live it snows too much to consider that. best to wait it out.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY How about just sweeping dirt or debris off the deck. Need about 1 inch under the bottom or dirt will get caught under there.
I swear RUclips and Facebook reads my mind...I was thinking about building a porch railing because we are defacing our house partially with shiplap and here you are in my notification before I even searched ....something strange is going on....by the way I love your videos ..keep up the good work
I think they do a bit.Thanks for the comment. Cheers!
What is the horizontal rail kit used here? I am looking everywhere for this kit and cannot find it.
I couldn't find anything either. But try searching using the term baluster or deck baluster and more comes up
Maybe stainless steel tapcons would be better for exterior usage due to the fact that blue tapcons can rust out.
Blue tapcons CAN rust out. Just like coated rebar. Scratch the paint and come be back in a few years.
I don’t even own a house but I can’t stop watching these videos
LOL that is awesome. Thanks for watching and commenting. Cheers!
Hi after some advice, before installing railings on a deck are the posts set in certain increments so that when the spacing is calculated between spindles they end up all the same, I can't seem to find a formula for finding the spacing to match on every rail, so if I've calculated the spacing on a 6ft rail then the next rail is shorter to turn a corner on an angle or the rail stops and starts either side of steps obviously the spacing changes, don't know if i've explained well enough cheers
Just had a thought would the posts have to be set at increments equal to the thickness of spindle and spacing so 3"space plus 1" spindle posts have to be set so multiples of 4" or not showing my IQ now lol cheers
Jeff, you’re amazing and very eloquent. Thank you for your videos. I have a question please. I live in Toronto. Im half way done laying pressure treated 2x6 decking boards on my new 15x28 deck. Using 16 ft boards. Pressure treated lumber kind of wet. Newly delivered by home depot. Im leaving a 1/16 gap between the boards as i heard it will shrink a bit. Is it true or should i re do at 1/8 gap? Thank you, great show. Javier
that depends on how much sun it gets and how close to the ground it is and if you are using a skirt and if it lets air pass through underneath.
thanks so much for your reply. 30 inches high. part sun (east facing) no skirt. Thank you! J.
Javier, you will need to leave the gap as small as possible. In your situation at 30" off the ground with no skirt the boards will not stay wet from ground moisture since the air will carry that away, since you don't get much direct sunlight I would suggest1/8 gap will be fine. the other secret is to wait 3 days before installing it and it will dry out on its own. Cheers!
thanks Jeff you're awesome. PS - I'm glad you're teaching your son the ropes, I intend to do the same w/ my 3yr old soon. Thanks again, Javier
I have a deck with no posts like you have. How would I install posts for railing
HI Jeff what impact driver bits do you use thanks
Anyone know how tall the rails are? And where to buy? Home depot only has 36" tall poles
Would you provide link on Nate's video on the deck railings?
Your bottom board should be 3 to 4 inches above your decking to shovel the snow underneath. In the south it works just fine the way you built the decking.
YAY, a new video!!!!
Excellent as always.
Learn ALLOT!!!!!
Glad you liked it. Cheers!
Jeff, a rail post question...
First of all - love your videos. Good relaxed instruction.
I cantilevered my deck - the rim joist going out about 6.5 inches from the beams. In your video about posts, you have your rim joist nearly even with your beams allowing for the 2x4 at the bottom for the skirt. Well, with a cantilever, I'm kinda screwed in that regard.
However, what are your thoughts about me setting the 4x4 posts to the ground, up against the rim joist, boxing them in as you instruct, to provide for a deck post and also provide a support for the 2x4 for the skirting? Difficult to describe in words; hope this makes sense. Perhaps a dollop of concrete for the post to sit in?
Thanks.
The best way to skirt and overhang is to hang a box from the overhang and then run a few boards from the bottom back to the framing. Kind of like building a bulkhead in a basement. Don't go all the way to the ground so you keep your wood out of the organics so it will last. Cheers!
Sounds like a plan. Thank you very much.
Should have a larger gap on the bottom to push the snow threw.
Are there any more to this series? It's been a lot of fun to watch.
Thanks Jacob, we have another STEP... in the series , how to build the stairs!!!
Duh! I forgot all about those. Good thing I'm not building this deck! Lol
👍👍👍👌 ive learn alot .
I didn't know you could screw directly into brick without wall plugs!
It says horizontal but you install it vertically?
I'm new to this, where do I find a kit such as this?
Can you recommend a place where I can purchase the pre-drilled rails? Online, maybe? I live in upstate NY (Syracuse) and they don't seem to stock them anywhere, locally.
I’m with you Eric. I redoing my deck and would love to know.
Hi Jeff, I need to add a hand rail to my front door's concrete stairs and landing. Mostly I feel okay about the structural aspects of the project-to affix the wooden posts to the concrete I plan to use heavy duty metal brackets. But the thing I'm concerned about is that I'm not sure how to attach the rail to my house like you did here. I have horizontally lapped cedar shingles and thus, I can't just lay a board flat against them. What would you do in a situation like mine? I'm thinking about just adding an extra post/bracket into the concrete next to the wall, as opposed to attaching it to the house wall. But it would be great to hear your thoughts. Thanks, I have gleaned a ton from your channel!
attaching posts to concrete with brackets seems like a reasonable approach. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY thank you!
How many videos in this series? Looking forward to the steps portion.
Thanks Marco, steps are next week. We will also cover the skirting boards installation. Great tips coming next week. we will also be releasing a different style of video for the whole project at some point. Thanks for watching.
"Now that's sexy..." LOL The railing looks fantastic, however the wood looks like it's untreated. Is there any reason why you would not stain it or treat it before putting it together?
Out of curiosity, how hot do those aluminum rails get in the sun? I'd like to use these on my back deck but it gets a lot of afternoon sun.
Not hot enough to burn you I think. I would check with a supplier that has a display set up on a hot day to make sure before moving forward.
If you have a back deck like mine those rails are going to be hot enough to brand you. The only other alternative would be would. One thing that's good about a back deck that gets alot of sun is to install and 80% shade tarp over it. They sell them in a lot of garden Outfitters. Every summer we put that up and it makes the back deck very enjoyable. Without that it's just a fiery Inferno. More industrial and expensive from that would be to build an overhead shelter, but then you don't get the sun unless you put a skylight. That's why I like the tarp idea
3:55 "gap under the rail is going to be about *this* high" ... 6:05 ... no gap ... oooooof
Are there any building codes on height of deck rails?
now how do you paint/stain without getting it all over those rails? Any tricks? taping seem like it would take forever....
Paint before
I cant see the name of the rail kit in the video. What are the railing kit poles made out of? Also did the cedar boards with the holes come with the kit or did you have to buy them separately. Thanks
HI Mark they are aluminum from home depot and the cedar rails are sold right next to the boxes. Cheers!
Hi Jeff, I have pulled off the old decking and the joists all look to be in good shape so I am going to re-use the PT joists. Should I worry about the old nail holes in the wood. I am going to use 5/4-4 tight knot for the new decking. I remember that you said to use 3.5" screws when putting down the new boards.....Thanks
Question for you please. As far as I remember you said always use brown screw but for the wall you used blue one. Any reason?or did I miss any hint in the video?
Thanks 😊
The blue ones are called Tapcons. They are for going into brick or solid concrete.
the brick.
Where would a person in Texas be able to acquire the rail system?
check home depot!
How did you add the posts
I love this guy!!! But mostly how he says “pro-cess” lol
What! Do you think I am Canadian or Something that I talk funny eh!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY what store the kit available eh
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I love your videos. It's very satisfying to watch a pro at work. Having said that I am renovating my deck and the Yahoo's that built my deck did something I bet you have never seen. They put a ledger board on the house and didn't hange the joist from it. They have double 2x8's nailed to the OUTSIDE of the ledger board. The joist run parallel to the house and they put the decking down at a 45*. They should have hung at least one of those 2x8's to the ledger board with joist hangers right? Nothing whatsoever is attached to the face of the ledger board. Oh, and here is the best part. The ledger board is 5/8" higher than the deck frame so the deck boards had to make a bend to attach to the ledger board.
Subbed !
mar1video You should watch this man redo a bathroom, my favorite
I have a question, how do you do the lay out for the posts so the spacing is equal all the way around
just try to measure out the interior spacing so it divides by 3 1/2 inches. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I'm confused about this as well. Did you plan before you installed the post, how far the rail gaps would be from the kit?
At the end @16:00 you said vertical movement moving you hand side to side ......Maybe you mean horizontal?
Please may I inquire as to where I can buy these pre-drilled planks and Aluminum pillars from sir? I live in NY and cannot find anywhere?? Thank you in advance. Craig.
Did you ever get an answer?
Great video as usual! Curious though, you're in Canada where they use the metric system (to my knowledge anyway). Why do you always seem to measure things in imperial? It seems so much more difficult and less precise to say "49 and 3/8", minus 1/2" equals 48 and 7/8"", instead of like "1200 minus 15 equals 1185mm".
In Canada we use metric for driving and weather. everything regarding building remained unchanged from the 1970's when the gov't made the change. we are so tied together in trade with our neighbors that it made sense to leave that alone.
The same is true of the printing industry in Canada as well.
Can you do a video on water heater uninstall/ new installation please
some day soon.