My brother, excellent video. Man, she's coming along nicely. I love the jump seats on your boat. Underwater lighting you should bless her with. Lights everywhere! Loll. Make her light up and turn heads in style, Miami Style. Big hugs brother and many blessings to you and yours. ❤❤🙏🤗👍😁
Hey there thanks for the comment! We used the starboard and screwed it to the transom. Or do you mean the plastic housings to the actual piece of starboard? Either way, I have a video coming out soon about battery cable management that is exactly about what you’re asking. We’re working with a company that makes mounts for battery switches and a bunch of other things for wiring. It’ll better show how to mount both the switch and acr. thank you for the kind words about the ebook. I tried to make it as simple as possible for anyone to understand. Like when I was starting out and looking to do this project. 🤙 Edit: I just realized this is my other acr video. In this one we just used screws to hold it up, then Ken was going to use a bracket to brace from the side to keep it stable.
The job is finished, but we need to do 4-5 more steps and replace the breaker which is incorrectly sized. And it would have been nice to clear the boat before beginning..
Hey Larry! Sorry about that. Amazon changes things every so often and it seems the links changed. The new ones are up! Thank you so much for letting us know! 🤙
Great job my only concern is that you have the mounting board is set so close to the deck if you ship water over the side I to the bost you may run the risk of shorting out the electrical system
Thanks Dave! Yeah, I can see that. Although I think it would have to be a big enough wave to damn near sink the boat. I mean, it’s possible given the right conditions. I’ve never had a wave swamp the boat tbh. Many boats even today have this design for electrical but maybe I can design a lid that won’t allow water in. I’ll add it to the list. 🤙 Edit: I thought of maybe a flip up switch board or something. That might be better.
Hi i have a question I wish you can help me am going to install a Yamaha 200 hp outboard I wanted to know the amp ignition protector - And the amp for the blue sea systems that goes in the battery terminal thanks
Hey there! According to the blue seas instructions, the ignition wire that comes from the acr requires a 1-10 amp fuse. I’m assuming it depends on the length of the run and how much your Yamaha ignition draws. The fuse for the battery terminals is between 80-100 according to the instructions. We did 80 on our boat since the run was not that long, on this boat we did 100 because that’s what the owner purchased. You should be fine in that range. Hope that helps! 🤙
@@Crazy99-w4t I think you’re referring to the breaker that runs to the fuse block? If so that’s going to depend on how many amps all your devices can draw at one time. For example, for our boat we chose a 30 amp breaker. We added up the bilge pump, wash down, aerator, lights etc amperage’s and came up with around 25 amps draw at one time. That’s how we chose 30 amps for the breaker. Hope that helps! 🤙
I'm in the process of installing the same battery combiner on my sailboat (i.e., Blue Sea m-acr 7601). Do the cover tabs "break" to allow access to the inside mounting studs?
I’m planning on doing this to my boat soon. Looks like you’re using 6AWG cable for everything? The instructions in the kit call for 4/0AWG 120mm wire on the switch connections and 6AWG 16mm for the ACR. Is it ok to just use 6AWG for everything as you did here?
Hey Jeremy! Make sure the kit you’re looking at for the instructions are the mini kit like the one I’m installing here. The size of the wire really depend on the length of the run. Refer to the chart and your length of run for the wires. 6 awg should be fine for many applications like this one. Check out our other acr video that is a slightly different install than this one. I use larger wires for that install. Glad the video could help and thank you for commenting! 🤙
Hi Della! I did this install for a family member and they purchased all the supplies. The instructions from blue sea systems states to use between 80-100 amp fuse for the ACR even though the entire system is rated for a 65amp charging system. Not sure what the formula blue sea systems uses but it’s just over the charging capacity for the acr. Hope that helps!🤙
Fantastic instructional Video - Iw ill be purchasing the eBook to assist me with my fresh install coming up soon. Can i ask a question, I have a 5 meter boat (approx 3-3.5m from batteries to fuseblock on the helm) which will be running a few accessories, stereo, VHF radio, Cabin Lights, Nav Lights, fishfinder and some pumps, Do you think 6 AWG wires from the Breaker to the front Fuse Panel on the helm is the right guage? Also, how do I determine the size of the breaker? I'm afraid of making a mistake a causing a fire so I'm trying to understand if these things matter and if that's the correct wire size. haha Appreciate any dierction you can provide,.
Thank you for the kind words! That’s awesome you’re taking on a project like this! The ebook makes it even easier! To answer your question, the 6 awg wire should be enough. The way you find out the size breaker you need is to add up all the amperage of all the devises you could potentially be using at the same time. Lights, bilge pumps, gps, wash downs etc. That’s the number for your breaker! 🤙
I have a small homemade boat and I don’t have much space I was wondering if could just put both batteries in series positive to positive negative to negative or maybe just use one for everything, I only use a radio and my position lights I’m pretty inexperienced in wiring boats, what setup would you recommend?
Can I just put one battery and a master switch? I have a deep cycle laying around I wonder if it can work my engine doesn’t need a lot of cranking amps it’s a fuel injected Honda Would be nice if I could use one battery only the boat would be lighter
With litium batteries becoming cheaper everyday. Will this work if you have a lead acid battery for starting your motor, & then have two 12v 100amp litium batteries for your 24v trolling motor? I emailed Blue sea, but they have not replied back to me.
Blue sea systems has an acr for lithium. Regular acr might damage. Also depends on the Lithium battery. New marine lithium batteries allow for charging through regular means. Blue seas can be very vague and yes they’re hard to get a hold of.
No unfortunately. I don’t think anyone sells all of this in one kit. BUT, we do have the links in the description where you can get most of the parts AND an ebook to guide you every step of the way. Let me know if I can answer any other questions for you! 🤙
I have never, nor have I known of anyone that casually rides around with the decks filled with water because of rough weather. You’d need 10” of water on the decks and at that point, you have bigger problems on your hands than a short.
All good! When I looked up the specs for our new Suzuki, it recommended the ground wire to be directly to the battery. It would work either way but you want the best connection for the motor to turn over.
I think a victron dc to dc charger is overkill for an application like this and more than double in price. Victron chargers also require more space which we were limited on. Thanks for the comment! 🤙
on the diagram, there is a ground on 2nd to left position of the negative bus bar. I believe that is supposed to be attached to your boat. Don't see you do this here.
No ground should attach to any boat. That’s a quick way to speed up electrolysis. Unlike a car, the ground wires only attach to the battery negatives either directly or through bus bars.
Should never put a fuse on the ground side, if that fucker blows then theres an issue of the voltage finding a different path to ground and frying everything or starting a fire.
That's good general advice, but the ACR ground is not a safety ground at all. When current stops flowing through that ground wire, the ACR defaults to open, shutting it down. In this demonstration the circuit is correctly fused very close to each of the batteries, which protects the charging wiring and the ACR itself. Effectively that ACR ground wire offers a convenient method of shutting down the ACR for periods of time where parasitic drain would deplete the batteries over long term storage. In their bigger units the ACR recommended ground is 1 Amp, and parasitic drain when open is 15mA.
My brother seeing this now. Watching it fully. I don't want to miss the details in this video. Coming back at ya after watching the video. Blessings
Thank you my friend! And thank you for the support! 🙏
@@perfectfitboating always. ♥️♥️
Actually good video.
Just the right amount of information.
Thank you so much! We appreciate that! 🤙
My brother, excellent video. Man, she's coming along nicely. I love the jump seats on your boat. Underwater lighting you should bless her with. Lights everywhere! Loll. Make her light up and turn heads in style, Miami Style. Big hugs brother and many blessings to you and yours. ❤❤🙏🤗👍😁
Miami style! 😎 hahaha love it! Thank you brother! 🤙🙏
@@perfectfitboating loll. Big hugs brother
Thank you for your video it was worth watching.
Thank you so much for watching and commenting! 🤙
How did you mount the backing plates for the ACR and the battery switch to your back panel? That step is missing. Your e book is excellent.
Hey there thanks for the comment! We used the starboard and screwed it to the transom. Or do you mean the plastic housings to the actual piece of starboard? Either way, I have a video coming out soon about battery cable management that is exactly about what you’re asking. We’re working with a company that makes mounts for battery switches and a bunch of other things for wiring. It’ll better show how to mount both the switch and acr. thank you for the kind words about the ebook. I tried to make it as simple as possible for anyone to understand. Like when I was starting out and looking to do this project. 🤙
Edit: I just realized this is my other acr video. In this one we just used screws to hold it up, then Ken was going to use a bracket to brace from the side to keep it stable.
Awesome video and information! Thanks Bro! Happy Thanksgiving! Peace from the Keys!
Thanks Jorge! Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family!
How do you wire the automatic bilge so if you are in a slip the bilge still engages with the switch in the off position?
You do a split connection. Power splits from the bilge switch the helm switch and to the battery positive with a fuse in between. 🤙🛥️🌊
The job is finished, but we need to do 4-5 more steps and replace the breaker which is incorrectly sized.
And it would have been nice to clear the boat before beginning..
I would like to know where you purchased everything. The link to Amazon is not working on you video.
Hey Larry! Sorry about that. Amazon changes things every so often and it seems the links changed. The new ones are up! Thank you so much for letting us know! 🤙
Great job my only concern is that you have the mounting board is set so close to the deck if you ship water over the side I to the bost you may run the risk of shorting out the electrical system
Thanks Dave! Yeah, I can see that. Although I think it would have to be a big enough wave to damn near sink the boat. I mean, it’s possible given the right conditions. I’ve never had a wave swamp the boat tbh. Many boats even today have this design for electrical but maybe I can design a lid that won’t allow water in. I’ll add it to the list. 🤙
Edit: I thought of maybe a flip up switch board or something. That might be better.
Hi i have a question I wish you can help me am going to install a Yamaha 200 hp outboard I wanted to know the amp ignition protector
- And the amp for the blue sea systems that goes in the battery terminal thanks
Hey there! According to the blue seas instructions, the ignition wire that comes from the acr requires a 1-10 amp fuse. I’m assuming it depends on the length of the run and how much your Yamaha ignition draws.
The fuse for the battery terminals is between 80-100 according to the instructions. We did 80 on our boat since the run was not that long, on this boat we did 100 because that’s what the owner purchased. You should be fine in that range. Hope that helps! 🤙
Thank you for your help and the waterproof amp would be 200A or 300A
@@Crazy99-w4t I think you’re referring to the breaker that runs to the fuse block? If so that’s going to depend on how many amps all your devices can draw at one time. For example, for our boat we chose a 30 amp breaker. We added up the bilge pump, wash down, aerator, lights etc amperage’s and came up with around 25 amps draw at one time. That’s how we chose 30 amps for the breaker. Hope that helps! 🤙
I'm in the process of installing the same battery combiner on my sailboat (i.e., Blue Sea m-acr 7601).
Do the cover tabs "break" to allow access to the inside mounting studs?
Yes those tabs do break for you to adjust the way the wires run out of the acr. 🛥️🤙🌊
Thank you so very much for taking the time to reply! Stay safe.
I’m planning on doing this to my boat soon. Looks like you’re using 6AWG cable for everything? The instructions in the kit call for 4/0AWG 120mm wire on the switch connections and 6AWG 16mm for the ACR. Is it ok to just use 6AWG for everything as you did here?
Hey Jeremy! Make sure the kit you’re looking at for the instructions are the mini kit like the one I’m installing here.
The size of the wire really depend on the length of the run. Refer to the chart and your length of run for the wires. 6 awg should be fine for many applications like this one. Check out our other acr video that is a slightly different install than this one. I use larger wires for that install. Glad the video could help and thank you for commenting! 🤙
Did you just screw that back part of the Swith or a screw through both switch and backplate?
If I remember right it was through both and on the backside there’s a locking nut. This was a temporary spot for the switch and acr setup though! 🤙
could you please tell me why you are using 100 amp batery CB, and the other video you used 80 amp CB? Thank you... is there a formula?
Hi Della! I did this install for a family member and they purchased all the supplies. The instructions from blue sea systems states to use between 80-100 amp fuse for the ACR even though the entire system is rated for a 65amp charging system. Not sure what the formula blue sea systems uses but it’s just over the charging capacity for the acr. Hope that helps!🤙
Fantastic instructional Video - Iw ill be purchasing the eBook to assist me with my fresh install coming up soon. Can i ask a question, I have a 5 meter boat (approx 3-3.5m from batteries to fuseblock on the helm) which will be running a few accessories, stereo, VHF radio, Cabin Lights, Nav Lights, fishfinder and some pumps, Do you think 6 AWG wires from the Breaker to the front Fuse Panel on the helm is the right guage? Also, how do I determine the size of the breaker? I'm afraid of making a mistake a causing a fire so I'm trying to understand if these things matter and if that's the correct wire size. haha Appreciate any dierction you can provide,.
Thank you for the kind words! That’s awesome you’re taking on a project like this! The ebook makes it even easier! To answer your question, the 6 awg wire should be enough. The way you find out the size breaker you need is to add up all the amperage of all the devises you could potentially be using at the same time. Lights, bilge pumps, gps, wash downs etc. That’s the number for your breaker! 🤙
@@perfectfitboatingso is this why your boat had a 60 breaker an this one has a 200 breaker?
The owner of this boat bought the incorrect breaker.👍
I have a small homemade boat and I don’t have much space I was wondering if could just put both batteries in series positive to positive negative to negative or maybe just use one for everything, I only use a radio and my position lights I’m pretty inexperienced in wiring boats, what setup would you recommend?
I think a simple on off switch with a DUAL PURPOSE battery would be perfect for your setup!🤙
@@perfectfitboating you mean connecting both batteries on parallel sorry and putting a master switch to turn everything off?
@panzermagier for a simple setup, one battery connected to an on/off simple switch. That’s all you really need.
Can I just put one battery and a master switch?
I have a deep cycle laying around I wonder if it can work my engine doesn’t need a lot of cranking amps it’s a fuel injected Honda
Would be nice if I could use one battery only the boat would be lighter
@panzermagier yes you can do it that way but you don’t wanna use a deep cycle to crank the motor. You could damage it and very quickly at that.
With litium batteries becoming cheaper everyday. Will this work if you have a lead acid battery for starting your motor, & then have two 12v 100amp litium batteries for your 24v trolling motor? I emailed Blue sea, but they have not replied back to me.
Blue sea systems has an acr for lithium. Regular acr might damage. Also depends on the Lithium battery. New marine lithium batteries allow for charging through regular means. Blue seas can be very vague and yes they’re hard to get a hold of.
Is all this in a kit i could buy. With instructions.
No unfortunately. I don’t think anyone sells all of this in one kit. BUT, we do have the links in the description where you can get most of the parts AND an ebook to guide you every step of the way. Let me know if I can answer any other questions for you! 🤙
So what happens when the deck fills with water from rough weather? Will the system short out?
I have never, nor have I known of anyone that casually rides around with the decks filled with water because of rough weather. You’d need 10” of water on the decks and at that point, you have bigger problems on your hands than a short.
How come you didn’t connect the motor ground to buss bar but directly to the starting battery?
You typically want the motor ground wire, wired directly to the battery.
@@perfectfitboating ah makes sense but all the diagrams show it running to the buss bar so it got me confused. great videos btw
All good! When I looked up the specs for our new Suzuki, it recommended the ground wire to be directly to the battery. It would work either way but you want the best connection for the motor to turn over.
I noticed you didn’t wire the start isolation on the ACR as recommended by the instructions. Is this not necessary?
Ignition isolation wire is Optional. This boat didn’t have a motor.
A victron dc to dc charger is way better
I think a victron dc to dc charger is overkill for an application like this and more than double in price. Victron chargers also require more space which we were limited on. Thanks for the comment! 🤙
on the diagram, there is a ground on 2nd to left position of the negative bus bar. I believe that is supposed to be attached to your boat. Don't see you do this here.
No ground should attach to any boat. That’s a quick way to speed up electrolysis. Unlike a car, the ground wires only attach to the battery negatives either directly or through bus bars.
Should never put a fuse on the ground side, if that fucker blows then theres an issue of the voltage finding a different path to ground and frying everything or starting a fire.
Only fuse on the ground side is the one recommended by blue seas.
That's good general advice, but the ACR ground is not a safety ground at all. When current stops flowing through that ground wire, the ACR defaults to open, shutting it down. In this demonstration the circuit is correctly fused very close to each of the batteries, which protects the charging wiring and the ACR itself. Effectively that ACR ground wire offers a convenient method of shutting down the ACR for periods of time where parasitic drain would deplete the batteries over long term storage. In their bigger units the ACR recommended ground is 1 Amp, and parasitic drain when open is 15mA.
Happy turkey day ,. Pretty soon Grady White will be phoning you to work for them you are bringing new life and technology to old hulls 🐠🌞🛥️
🤣🤣🤣 that’s the plan Larry! Thanks for the Continued support of the channel youre the best! 🤙