After viewing this video I can do this. Extremely well executed and very detailed. Thanks for sharing your work and passion. Cheers to the next adventure 🥂
There's a lot of great info here. If you replace the switch you purchased with a Blue Sea 5511e "Dual Circuit Plus Switch" you can control switching of the start and house battery at the same time. With the starting circuit wired to the start battery, and all loads wired to the house there is no need to change the switch position on the water. The switch also includes a combine position if the start battery is dead. If you add an ACR (as mentioned at the end of the video) you can charge both the start and house battery while underway.
@@vinsanity0492 great info brother! We used to have that switch when we had the acr. the acr got damaged over time and we decided to go back to the most simple setup. Thanks for the tips and comment! 🤙🛥️🌊
Brother just seeing this video! This is perfect! Great info since I'm having issues with my battery switch on the cuddy. Great informative video. Big hugs
Good video. You made it easy to follow. I am confused because I always thought the Battery switch was used during charging of the batteries, not normal use. Could you clarify? Thanks for the great job.
Of course! You can toggle the switch while in use you just don’t want to switch it to off. You could also switch it to combined while running to charge both batteries but charging the house battery would take pretty long that way.
Hey Cap! Great content. Very informative. But, I believe that with an open transom, water will be to close to that switch. Why did you not install it by the helm. Further from the water line. Have a great day guys. I'm from Miami. I'm Capt. Lester.
Both my batteries went bad so I bought two new ones. I just bought another boat so I took the acr off the Grady and figured I could make a video on a regular switch. 🤙🛥️🌊
I have 2 switches. One for house and one for cranking. I leave both switches on both while running. If I'm anchored I will turn the cranking battery off and turn the house battery to 1. Now my cranking battery is fully charged when I want to start the boat. The house battery will energize anchor nav light and any other accessories. To start engine I put both switches back to both. Is this the correct technique?
@perfectfitboating you are correct. I have starter cranking battery and switch in the bilge. Wired to position 1. House battery is deep cycle wired to battery switch in the cabin. It is also wired to position 1. When I first board the boat I with put both switches to the both position. I assume they are both being charged when the engine is running. I bought the boat a few years ago and this was the existing wiring. It had to cranking batteries. I replaced both. One cranking and one deep cycle for house accessories. Never had an issue starting with this procedure. I have always wondered if this is the correct setup
It’s a little difficult to see it in my head but I think the way you have it wired works. You can always test it while running to see if it’s charging. I would have the bilge pump wired to the house but that’s just me. Good on you for changing the other start to a deep cycle. Do some testing with a clamp meter and if you’re getting charge, leave it as is since it works for you. 🌊🤙🛥️
If my house battery is running in series with another battery and now giving out 24v could I still use one of those switches? Just curious because I can’t find that on any video
@ Yeah, I see all over RUclips people hooking up a battery switch to a house battery and start crank battery but never a house battery that is actually two batteries ran in series That’s what I was going to do for my 24 V trolling motor but now I’m thinking maybe I should keep the trolling motor batteries separate. But thanks for your reply
Hey bud! Thanks for the comment we appreciate that! I was comparing the 1/0 being bigger in diameter than the 2awg but I might have written it wrong in the screen. Let me try and fix that. Thanks for that
Gotcha at min 4:00 I understood two aught which means 2/0. Ok but you meant 2 awg (or #2 cable) not 2/0. Awg = American wire gauge. Aught = 0. Watch all your videos. Keep up the great content!
That’s right. As youre running the motor, you’d have to switch over to both or 2. Realistically, your house should have enough charge for an outing and you just charge the house battery at home with a charger. 🤙🌊🛥️
@@perfectfitboating i made on my boat 1 relay with two outputs. when relay has no 12v its charging bat1 and when i aplay 12v its switches charging on bat2. u need to pull out charging cable from motor(rectefier) inside boat and wire it next to switch for nr1 and nr2 bat and connect directly on inputs from bateries. from relay outputs i conected on dash battery tester so i know status of charge on every batery so i can charge it accordingly. u can buy for cca 150-200 euros device that does this automaticly and my design costs araund 20-30 euro. sory for my bad english greetings from croatia!
Your English is just fine my friend! We used to have what’s called an “automatic charging relay” on this boat before we installed this. I know exactly what you’re talking about and they work great! 🤙🛥️🌊
I would add, never turn the selector switch when the engine is running. The surge can take out the voltage regulator or even damage the ECU on the engine.
That’s a good tip as well. Although this particular switch has a safety feature for that if i remember reading the instructions correctly. The cheaper ones definitely do not! 🤙🛥️🌊
After viewing this video I can do this. Extremely well executed and very detailed. Thanks for sharing your work and passion. Cheers to the next adventure 🥂
Thank you steva! ♥️
There's a lot of great info here.
If you replace the switch you purchased with a Blue Sea 5511e "Dual Circuit Plus Switch" you can control switching of the start and house battery at the same time.
With the starting circuit wired to the start battery, and all loads wired to the house there is no need to change the switch position on the water. The switch also includes a combine position if the start battery is dead.
If you add an ACR (as mentioned at the end of the video) you can charge both the start and house battery while underway.
@@vinsanity0492 great info brother! We used to have that switch when we had the acr. the acr got damaged over time and we decided to go back to the most simple setup. Thanks for the tips and comment! 🤙🛥️🌊
Great job as always. Very detailed.
Thank you Steve! We appreciate you! 🤙🛥️🌊
Thanks brother. Good info, good video, informative!
Thank you for the comment brother and thanks for watching! 🛥️🌊🤙
Clean work dude!
Thank you my man! 🤙🛥️🌊
Brother just seeing this video! This is perfect! Great info since I'm having issues with my battery switch on the cuddy. Great informative video. Big hugs
Thank you for watching my brother! Glad the video can help!🤙🛥️🌊
Good video. You made it easy to follow. I am confused because I always thought the Battery switch was used during charging of the batteries, not normal use. Could you clarify? Thanks for the great job.
Of course! You can toggle the switch while in use you just don’t want to switch it to off. You could also switch it to combined while running to charge both batteries but charging the house battery would take pretty long that way.
We install interstate batteries in all of our boats. They really are great batteries.
That’s reassuring! We didn’t have much luck with the duralast batteries we had! 🛥️🌊🤙
Tha ks buddy great video well done well explained
Thanks for watching Dave!🤙🛥️🌊
Great installation video!!!
Thank you my brother! 🤙🛥️🌊
Thank you G, very helpful 🙏
Thank you for watching my bro! 🛥️🤙🌊
Hey Cap! Great content. Very informative. But, I believe that with an open transom, water will be to close to that switch. Why did you not install it by the helm. Further from the water line. Have a great day guys. I'm from Miami. I'm Capt. Lester.
Hey cap! That’s a good point. Although it came from factory like this, having the switch in the cabin would be better. Thanks for watching! 🌊🤙🛥️
Marine wire is also more resistant to fire. It will burn, but it doesn’t catch nearly as fast.
That’s true. It’ll smoke like hell for a while! 🤙🌊🛥️
Good job on the info side.
Thanks bill! 🛥️🤙🌊
Awsome vid!
Thank you buddy! 🤙🌊🛥️
Why did you remove the ACR and replace your batteries?
Did the old system give you trouble
Both my batteries went bad so I bought two new ones. I just bought another boat so I took the acr off the Grady and figured I could make a video on a regular switch. 🤙🛥️🌊
I have 2 switches. One for house and one for cranking. I leave both switches on both while running. If I'm anchored I will turn the cranking battery off and turn the house battery to 1. Now my cranking battery is fully charged when I want to start the boat. The house battery will energize anchor nav light and any other accessories. To start engine I put both switches back to both. Is this the correct technique?
That’s one way of doing it yes! It seems you have your starter battery ONLY to start your motor and does not power anything else am I right?
@perfectfitboating you are correct. I have starter cranking battery and switch in the bilge. Wired to position 1. House battery is deep cycle wired to battery switch in the cabin. It is also wired to position 1. When I first board the boat I with put both switches to the both position. I assume they are both being charged when the engine is running. I bought the boat a few years ago and this was the existing wiring. It had to cranking batteries. I replaced both. One cranking and one deep cycle for house accessories. Never had an issue starting with this procedure. I have always wondered if this is the correct setup
It’s a little difficult to see it in my head but I think the way you have it wired works. You can always test it while running to see if it’s charging.
I would have the bilge pump wired to the house but that’s just me.
Good on you for changing the other start to a deep cycle.
Do some testing with a clamp meter and if you’re getting charge, leave it as is since it works for you. 🌊🤙🛥️
@@perfectfitboating thank you 😊
@craigdoyle2155 no prob! Thanks for watching! 🤙🌊🛥️
If my house battery is running in series with another battery and now giving out 24v could I still use one of those switches? Just curious because I can’t find that on any video
You’d have to check the amperage of both batteries running in series and then buy a switch with that amperage rating.
@ Yeah, I see all over RUclips people hooking up a battery switch to a house battery and start crank battery but never a house battery that is actually two batteries ran in series That’s what I was going to do for my 24 V trolling motor but now I’m thinking maybe I should keep the trolling motor batteries separate. But thanks for your reply
@frankkyne6711 I would definitely keep them seperate to avoid any issues. Good luck! 🛥️🤙🌊
Great info, just a minor correction. 1/0 is smaller in cross section/diameter than 2/0.
Make sure to change that out for your cranking circuit.
Hey bud! Thanks for the comment we appreciate that! I was comparing the 1/0 being bigger in diameter than the 2awg but I might have written it wrong in the screen. Let me try and fix that. Thanks for that
Gotcha at min 4:00 I understood two aught which means 2/0. Ok but you meant 2 awg (or #2 cable) not 2/0.
Awg = American wire gauge.
Aught = 0.
Watch all your videos. Keep up the great content!
Ahhh got it! Had me nervous there thought I had to do editing magic! 🤣 thank you for watching brother I appreciate you! 🤙🌊🛥️
@@perfectfitboatingit was me that didn’t read the caption 😅 2 awg.
Guilty 😵💫
Great job guys 🛥️🌞🐠
only 1 question how do u charge second battery (house) when u re always on nr1 when motor is running?
You can’t have to switch #2 or both
That’s right. As youre running the motor, you’d have to switch over to both or 2.
Realistically, your house should have enough charge for an outing and you just charge the house battery at home with a charger. 🤙🌊🛥️
@@perfectfitboating i made on my boat 1 relay with two outputs. when relay has no 12v its charging bat1 and when i aplay 12v its switches charging on bat2. u need to pull out charging cable from motor(rectefier) inside boat and wire it next to switch for nr1 and nr2 bat and connect directly on inputs from bateries. from relay outputs i conected on dash battery tester so i know status of charge on every batery so i can charge it accordingly. u can buy for cca 150-200 euros device that does this automaticly and my design costs araund 20-30 euro. sory for my bad english greetings from croatia!
Your English is just fine my friend! We used to have what’s called an “automatic charging relay” on this boat before we installed this. I know exactly what you’re talking about and they work great! 🤙🛥️🌊
I would add, never turn the selector switch when the engine is running. The surge can take out the voltage regulator or even damage the ECU on the engine.
That’s a good tip as well. Although this particular switch has a safety feature for that if i remember reading the instructions correctly. The cheaper ones definitely do not! 🤙🛥️🌊