Informative and thorough video. I only have two comments: 1) You need not worry about using o-ring lubricants. You mention in the video at 13:00 that you are afraid to use silicone or grease on the oring because it may create an "uneven" surface. Actually, o-ring lubricants do exactly the opposite. Not only do they help hold the oring in place, but they allow in to slide into the perfect place. Any excess lubricant will be squished out of the way. I have installed hundreds of orings, mostly in aircraft applications, and every single one that I can remember has been lubricated with something. Whether it is the fluid itself the oring is sealing (in this case, antifreeze), or petroleum jelly (Vaseline), or a specialty o-ring lube, anything is better than nothing. I might also mention, that unless it is specifically called for, do not use general purpose grease. Some types of rubber used in orings can react badly with grease, causing the oring to swell and fail prematurely. For most o-rings, petroleum jelly works just fine, and if you are scared to even use that, then use the fluid the oring will be sealing. 2) Be very careful using anti seize on such a small bolt. Adding a thread lubricant will decrease the friction in the threads, which will increase the torque the bolt head will experience. Meaning you increase the risk of snapping a bolt head. Personally I would just skip the anti-seize altogether for these bolts. They are small and only torqued to 80 and 96 in/lbs. Great video! You demonstrated very well how to do this job with out removing the alternator.
Great video.I installed a new water pump,thermostat,upper and lower radiator hoses,coolant and new belt.On my 2008 Toyota Corolla.The hoses and belt weren't that bad but I changed them anyway just because I didn't want to have to mess with the cooling system again for a long time.I did have to use the two shorter bolts that came with the water pump I bought at Advance auto parts.The job took about 2.5 hours.The parts cost about.$150.00 for everything.The water pump Itself was $49.99 with a life time warranty.Not bad. I can't even imagine what a shop would have charged for all that work.BTW, I bought one of those automotive stethoscopes to check to see where the grinding noise was coming from.Because like you I was not positive where the noise was coming from.I was pretty sure it was the water pump,but not positive.With the car running.I touched the Alternator,belt tensioner, AC compressor and power steering pump with the stethoscope and they seemed normal.When I touched the water pump with the stethoscope.I could clearly hear grinding.It's a great diagnostic tool and it only cost $6.00 on eBay.
good video. I can confirm that the corrosion build up was the humming noise you and I had. changed it anyway seeing I already had it apart also. If it happens again I'm going to spray brake clean before I assume it's bad. Love my Vibe. 245,000 still going strong.
I just did this job on my wife's car yesterday. Thanks to your great video, I knew exactly how to do it. I drained the rad by using the factory petcock instead of pulling the rad hose. Other than that, I followed your procedure step by step. In return, I'll give you a tip. If you ever have to replace the idler pulley, you'll find that your GM dealer wants you to buy the whole tensioner assembly and won't sell you just the pulley. They wanted $400.00 ( CDN ). I found the same pulley at NAPA for $30.00. It was general stock, not listed for any particular car. Just take the bad one to NAPA and they can match it. Thanks.
Thanks! I actually did already replace the tensioner assembly got my replacement at NAPA. I even made a video about it. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave me a comment!
Just out of curiosity, if you don't mind me asking, how much did the tensioner assembly cost ? Are you in the U.S. ? I'm in Canada so prices would differ.
@@davidquinn6161 When I did the job I think it was $80 or $90 US but its now up to $100 on Amazon for the AC Delco brand (made in Canada) unit. amzn.to/2MHD6NG
Good video, thanks! For refilling coolant systems, why not pick up a vacuum refiller. They're great (and not very expensive), and eliminate unfilled areas in the cooling system, even the heater core. When you pull down the vacuum, it also serves as a system leak checker. Super tool, don't know how I ever got along without it!
Your video is excellent. Thanks for posting it. We have a 2007 Vibe, I've been using the Toyota Coolant since the first change at 50k, I been changing the antifreeze every 50k. Present mileage 210,000. So far no water pump problems. I just drain it out of the petcock in the radiator. Refill is 1 gallon. You don't get all the coolant out of the block but, by changing it at an interval the new coolant replacing most of the old. So it is changing it by dilution.
Thanks - I'm glad you liked my video. I was on the fence as to which coolant to use since this car has a Toyota designed engine. But after looking at the manual I decided to stick with the DexCool (orange) that was in it from the factory.
Thanks for going to all the trouble of making a video. It was a great help. Did you edit out the cussing when you were trying to get those bolts out? Very close quarters in there.
Really great video. Helps a lot. I have the same year Corolla and it's good to learn the Vibe came with Dex cool as the Toyota stuff is over priced. Just like their transmission fluid. Thanks for making it.
Well, its been a year and a half since I did this job and all seems well. The car has something like 150,000mi on it and this is the biggest issue I've had with it so far. Dexcool is what was in the car from the factory and what is recommended in the owner's manual. I don't know what the different between the two types of coolant is or why Toyota uses something different than GM. (I'm sure a google search would answer that question) While the engine is Toyota in this car, I'm not sure the rest of the system (IE the radiator, etc...) is Toyota made/engineered. In other words, if the radiator is a GM part then that may be why Dexcool is called for in the manual.
Mine is an 07 as well. We bought it used in 08 with 4K miles on it so it was basically new when we got it. It has been a very reliable car over the years.
So is their a permanent fix for this problem...? I have replaced the pump three times and my Vibe has only 75000 miles on it... I love the car, but this is getting ridiculous...
You crawl under the car while it is lifted on a roller jack? Where is a jack stand to back up your roller jack? Why not a stack of boards? Better yet ... why not both? Your thinking is that the front tire hasn't left the ground??? Well, why did you have to lift the car? Answer: Because there wasn't room for you to fit under there! If your roller jack collapses, the car won't just return to the same height as before you lifted it, it will bounce down an inch or 2 further so even if you barely squeezed in there before, you are looking at serious injury or death. Getting down and positioning a light under the car to set your jack and actually jacking the car up is the hard part. positioning a jack stand or a stack of boards as a back up to your jack is easy street. Dying saving someone's life is the best death. Catching the winning touchdown in the Super Bowl while suffering a terminal injury is ok. Dying under your Pontiac Vibe because your jack collapses is just ... sad.
hmmm...I do fit under the car without it jacked up (I'm a fairly small guy). At the end of the video I even show the jack off to the side and mention I still need to put the splash shield back on which I did without jacking the car up again. I only elevated it slightly to make a little extra room for tools and the camera. Point taken, and I appreciate your concern for my safety but your overuse of superlatives is unnecessary.
Informative and thorough video. I only have two comments:
1) You need not worry about using o-ring lubricants. You mention in the video at 13:00 that you are afraid to use silicone or grease on the oring because it may create an "uneven" surface. Actually, o-ring lubricants do exactly the opposite. Not only do they help hold the oring in place, but they allow in to slide into the perfect place. Any excess lubricant will be squished out of the way. I have installed hundreds of orings, mostly in aircraft applications, and every single one that I can remember has been lubricated with something. Whether it is the fluid itself the oring is sealing (in this case, antifreeze), or petroleum jelly (Vaseline), or a specialty o-ring lube, anything is better than nothing. I might also mention, that unless it is specifically called for, do not use general purpose grease. Some types of rubber used in orings can react badly with grease, causing the oring to swell and fail prematurely. For most o-rings, petroleum jelly works just fine, and if you are scared to even use that, then use the fluid the oring will be sealing.
2) Be very careful using anti seize on such a small bolt. Adding a thread lubricant will decrease the friction in the threads, which will increase the torque the bolt head will experience. Meaning you increase the risk of snapping a bolt head. Personally I would just skip the anti-seize altogether for these bolts. They are small and only torqued to 80 and 96 in/lbs.
Great video! You demonstrated very well how to do this job with out removing the alternator.
Great video.I installed a new water pump,thermostat,upper and lower radiator hoses,coolant and new belt.On my 2008 Toyota Corolla.The hoses and belt weren't that bad but I changed them anyway just because I didn't want to have to mess with the cooling system again for a long time.I did have to use the two shorter bolts that came with the water pump I bought at Advance auto parts.The job took about 2.5 hours.The parts cost about.$150.00 for everything.The water pump Itself was $49.99 with a life time warranty.Not bad. I can't even imagine what a shop would have charged for all that work.BTW, I bought one of those automotive stethoscopes to check to see where the grinding noise was coming from.Because like you I was not positive where the noise was coming from.I was pretty sure it was the water pump,but not positive.With the car running.I touched the Alternator,belt tensioner, AC compressor and power steering pump with the stethoscope and they seemed normal.When I touched the water pump with the stethoscope.I could clearly hear grinding.It's a great diagnostic tool and it only cost $6.00 on eBay.
Thank you Sir instructions were the best that I have seen on here. Thank you again
good video. I can confirm that the corrosion build up was the humming noise you and I had. changed it anyway seeing I already had it apart also. If it happens again I'm going to spray brake clean before I assume it's bad. Love my Vibe. 245,000 still going strong.
They are good cars
I just did this job on my wife's car yesterday. Thanks to your great video, I knew exactly how to do it. I drained the rad by using the factory petcock instead of pulling the rad hose. Other than that, I followed your procedure step by step. In return, I'll give you a tip. If you ever have to replace the idler pulley, you'll find that your GM dealer wants you to buy the whole tensioner assembly and won't sell you just the pulley. They wanted $400.00 ( CDN ). I found the same pulley at NAPA for $30.00. It was general stock, not listed for any particular car. Just take the bad one to NAPA and they can match it. Thanks.
Thanks! I actually did already replace the tensioner assembly got my replacement at NAPA. I even made a video about it. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave me a comment!
Just out of curiosity, if you don't mind me asking, how much did the tensioner assembly cost ? Are you in the U.S. ? I'm in Canada so prices would differ.
@@davidquinn6161 When I did the job I think it was $80 or $90 US but its now up to $100 on Amazon for the AC Delco brand (made in Canada) unit. amzn.to/2MHD6NG
Good video, thanks! For refilling coolant systems, why not pick up a vacuum refiller. They're great (and not very expensive), and eliminate unfilled areas in the cooling system, even the heater core. When you pull down the vacuum, it also serves as a system leak checker. Super tool, don't know how I ever got along without it!
They don’t always work. You end up with a funnel on the radiator anyways
Your video is excellent. Thanks for posting it. We have a 2007 Vibe, I've been using the Toyota Coolant since the first change at 50k, I been changing the antifreeze every 50k. Present mileage 210,000. So far no water pump problems. I just drain it out of the petcock in the radiator. Refill is 1 gallon. You don't get all the coolant out of the block but, by changing it at an interval the new coolant replacing most of the old. So it is changing it by dilution.
Thanks - I'm glad you liked my video. I was on the fence as to which coolant to use since this car has a Toyota designed engine. But after looking at the manual I decided to stick with the DexCool (orange) that was in it from the factory.
I worked at that AISIN factory from '96 to 2012 that made that water pump that is the oem for that pump.
This is as wonderful a project coverage as could be done.
Fantastic job explaining the water pump change! You are da MAN! Thanks!!
Thanks for watching and letting me know you enjoyed the video.
Really good video! I'll probably just take out the alternator to get easier access to the pump.
Thank you sir. The video was very well done.
thanks, i'm glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you! Very helpful!
Great video. Clear instructions, details and nice camera shots. 🙂
I'm glad you liked this..thanks!
Thanks for going to all the trouble of making a video. It was a great help. Did you edit out the cussing when you were trying to get those bolts out? Very close quarters in there.
+alltakennow thanks for watching, I'm glad this video helped you. I actually did have to edit out some cussing on this video.
Really great video. Helps a lot. I have the same year Corolla and it's good to learn the Vibe came with Dex cool as the Toyota stuff is over priced. Just like their transmission fluid. Thanks for making it.
you should always use what your manual recommends - don't go by my video
Great video, Thanks!
Bro short bolt locations and torque specs for the short bolts. Thanks for the vid
You sure using dexcool is good to use in that toyota engine?
Well, its been a year and a half since I did this job and all seems well. The car has something like 150,000mi on it and this is the biggest issue I've had with it so far. Dexcool is what was in the car from the factory and what is recommended in the owner's manual. I don't know what the different between the two types of coolant is or why Toyota uses something different than GM. (I'm sure a google search would answer that question) While the engine is Toyota in this car, I'm not sure the rest of the system (IE the radiator, etc...) is Toyota made/engineered. In other words, if the radiator is a GM part then that may be why Dexcool is called for in the manual.
SevenFortyOne im thinking about getting a 07 vibe, gonna look at one friday, has 113k on it.
Mine is an 07 as well. We bought it used in 08 with 4K miles on it so it was basically new when we got it. It has been a very reliable car over the years.
You said that your car sounds normal, after complete. So all that noise was normal?
Right! That engine had a really loud tapping. I came to the comment section to see if anyone else noticed it.
@@paulhunt1580 all normal sounds. The tapping noise you heard was most likely the injectors.
Well my 06 corolla never sounded like that. You couldn't even hear it running. It had over 150k
The camera mic boosts the audio unnaturally. The car is running perfectly
Awesome. How many miles on her now?
So wait….I bought you had to remove the pulley to access all the bolts?
Whatever I showed in the video is what I did...I don't remember the exact steps now
So is their a permanent fix for this problem...? I have replaced the pump three times and my Vibe has only 75000 miles on it... I love the car, but this is getting ridiculous...
This is 5he only time I've replaced mine and the car now has 180,000 or so on it
I have a 2006 Vibe with 200k miles and it's still running the original water pump. Works fine
Why does everyone say negative battery post first no positive always
You crawl under the car while it is lifted on a roller jack? Where is a jack stand to back up your roller jack? Why not a stack of boards? Better yet ... why not both? Your thinking is that the front tire hasn't left the ground??? Well, why did you have to lift the car? Answer: Because there wasn't room for you to fit under there!
If your roller jack collapses, the car won't just return to the same height as before you lifted it, it will bounce down an inch or 2 further so even if you barely squeezed in there before, you are looking at serious injury or death. Getting down and positioning a light under the car to set your jack and actually jacking the car up is the hard part. positioning a jack stand or a stack of boards as a back up to your jack is easy street.
Dying saving someone's life is the best death. Catching the winning touchdown in the Super Bowl while suffering a terminal injury is ok. Dying under your Pontiac Vibe because your jack collapses is just ... sad.
hmmm...I do fit under the car without it jacked up (I'm a fairly small guy). At the end of the video I even show the jack off to the side and mention I still need to put the splash shield back on which I did without jacking the car up again. I only elevated it slightly to make a little extra room for tools and the camera. Point taken, and I appreciate your concern for my safety but your overuse of superlatives is unnecessary.
Use toyota coolant or else youll be replacing that pump next thr following year.
I ran this car another 80k miles on this pump and coolant with no issues
Wow...really nice video! Ty!
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