@@tstricklin4808 No, or not really, a dimmer switch, aka a TRIAC, cuts off the leading portion of the AC waveform, which causes worse and worse jolts to the motor and will eventually just kill the motor. A Variac is what can provide variable voltage, its kind of in the name, Variac, Vari-AC, Variable AC, its a generic trade name for what is called a "variable autotransformer" and they have been used for decades to vary the voltage of AC devices and it also acts as a half-decent isolation transformer by nature. Add in a polarity switch between the Variac and the motor and you can go forward and backward. Edit: Never mind, this is a synchronous motor rather than a normal AC induction motor, it did come off a lathe after all.
This is actually a super cool idea/concept gentlemen! As both an Electrical & Locomotive Engineer, I can tell you there's 2 options to do this correctly: A.) Use a single phase 240V in 3 Phase out VFD rated at the max continuous power (Watts) of your generator, with a 3 phase Syncronous motor rated at or more than the Peak Watt output of your VFD/Generator. B.) Remove the governor from the generator & throttle it like a gas drivetrain, which then converts your generator from 60hz fixed frequency to a variable frequency output. You would then remove & bypass the starting capacitors on that first motor you had. This would truly make it like a locomotive, albeit a VERY old school tech one (40-50s era Diesel-Electric Loco).
The thing with option B is you can't truly come down to 0RPM, as gas engines typically have an idle, so stopping completely wouldn't be possible. So you could either use a big contactor & switch as a sort of 'electrical clutch', or more interestingly wire the accelerator like a gas golf cart where it acts as a starter switch/kill switch built in to the throttle.
^^Correction to my above reply to my comment (I don't like editing my comments): I meant to say a way to think about it is the gen alternator + drive motor ('traction motor' more correctly) combo is like an 'electromagnetic torque converter single speed transmission' in line to the gen engine. This means the difference between motors' winding turn counts change the 'electromagnetic gear ratio' (properly referred to as "slip" in electric motor terminology)
A rusted flooded out generator, a pile of parts from the parts bin, a few bells and whistles from Go Power Sports and an "It'll be fine!" attitude... man I love this channel. Hope you guys have a fun holiday!
You need a 208V 3HP 3 phase motor with a 240V 1phase input to 208V 3 phase Variable frequency drive, use a potentiometer to control the frequency of the VFD, you'll have full torque, reverse, and can go from 0 to about 5000RPM on a 3600RPM 2 pole motor.
Use a 240 sliding dimmer light switch, can use 2 springs 1 on each side on 1 side, and a throttle cable on the other side. That way you can actually have a working "throttle" lmao
That wouldn't work, you need to vary the frequency to change the speed of an ac motor. Reducing voltage or using a triac dimmer will only cause increased amp draw and component damage
No no no, never throttle an AC motor under a high stall load like a go-kart or an industrial machine with a TRIAC dimmer, that murders the motor from the 60hz walls of voltage slamming into the windings. Its already a boat with the heavy generator, why not go elegant and use a Variac? As a variable transformer it varies the voltage itself, many consumer units can go from 0 to 250 volts and cost about 200 bucks for a 5kVA Variac, plenty enough power to handle this motor and generator. And also, as a big and heavy transformer, they tend to be immortal. I still have an old like 10 to 140 volt Variac that's older than my dad, and it still works flawlessly, the adjustment knob turns smoothly and precisely, and the geared stainless steel display dial rotates smoothly and still correlates very closely to the actual output voltage. Edit: Never mind, this is a synchronous motor rather than a normal AC induction motor, it did come off a lathe after all.
I'll be the first to say " this sucks, they ain't working on the dragster this week". Instead they are doing a generator go kart. "I AM SORRY I WAS WRONG"! I never laughed so hard at CarsandCamers. Ike bailing on the go kart and John talking 1880 western so flawless! I'm still laughing! HATS OFF TO YOU BOYS!!!
This was hilarious back in the day we had a Go-Kart with the motor on hinges you sat in it moved the Handle which moved the engine which tightened the belt but if the belt popped off going down the road the spark plug would get you right in the back we used to put people on it and watch them get shocked and laugh our ass off !
Regarding dimmers: These are synchronous motors, they will only ever operate at a speed that's determined by the frequency of the power source. Since that's 60hz, that's what you get. It's single speed, on-off. Dimmers aren't going to do anything but burn out.
@@wisecampmotorcycles8258 No, you *have* to change the frequency to alter the running speed. You can drop voltage and make a synchronous motor drag slightly, but it gets extremely hot doing so and will stall in a heartbeat. All you're doing is making the motor draw more amperage until it can't, which is how copper turns to smoke.
Or a simple Variac between the motor and generator, and a polarity switch between the Variac and the motor. There's the throttle and the gear selector! Glad you didn't say TRIAC, lots of people don't realize that TRIAC dimmers kill these kinds of motors, they chop off the leading portion of the waveform, light bulbs handle that no problem but a high stall load on a motor makes the motor jerk worse and worse the lower you go in speed until they destroy themselves. You _can_ dim a fan, well _kind of_ at least, but it whines a lot and gets louder the lower you go as you hear the 60hz buzz and the higher order harmonics. Edit: Never mind, this is a synchronous motor rather than a normal AC induction motor, it did come off a lathe after all.
@@mihkus It would be less efficient, but far cheaper. A VFD can control a synchronous motor like this one, because its in the name, Variable-Frequency Drive, as those motors determine their RPM as a multiple of line frequency. VFDs are also expensive, so using an induction motor with a Variac transformer would be optimal, control RPM by controlling torque, and control torque by controlling the voltage of the smooth 60Hz sine wave. But if you use a TRIAC on an induction motor, you'll kill the motor, those control the RMS by chopping the front of the waves off by only conducting at a certain variable threshold and that basically slams the square-wave-like front of suddenly-high-voltage into a device designed to take a smooth sine wave and nothing but.
Switch to a dimmer switch guys, keep the spring loaded return but use a dimmer switch so you can get half throttle when needed. If you put in a reverse polarity switch after the dimmer you can cut throttle flip the other switch and now you have reverse.
The reverse polarity is a wonderful idea, the dimmer... not so much. A TRIAC will wreak merry hell on the motor and eventually kill it, a Variac instead alters the voltage rather than chopping off the leading edge of the waveform, so put the Variac right off the generator, then the polarity switch off the Variac's output to the motor, that way the Variac stays energized and you only swap the polarity so it can go full throttle forward or backwards. Transformers don't particularly enjoy being turned on and off often, but if you treat them right, they're essentially immortal. Or, so long as they're made well, like old American transformers. Edit: Never mind, this is a synchronous motor rather than a normal AC induction motor, it did come off a lathe after all.
Y'all DEF NEED to keep this project going!!! It's Absolutely Great!!! Tell Charles We Miss Him and Hope He Is Doing Amazingly Well!!! Have a Blessed Day Today and Everyday!!!
Loved the idea guys! You all inspired me to think outside the box again. And I have a few new ideas myself. Thank you all for your time and creativity!
1 hp is 746 watts so if you know a hp rating for a motor you can calculate generator power that way. Watts = amps x volts so if you have an amperage rating instead of hp rating you can use that. Its way simpler than a lot of people think. Just be mindful of peak watt rating vs continuous. On a 3500 watt generator you only have 15 amps available at 220V. A 5 hp motor will draw 17 amps. A 3 hp motor fed the proper amperage (10.2A) will make 3 hp. A 5 hp motor that is demanding more than the generator has will choke the generator down, and it will only make a few amps at best. Thats why the (I'm assuming 3hp) lathe motor is "more powerful" than the 5hp when properly matched with the correct current. The "30 Amp" plug on that gennie is just meant to match to a 30 amp RV circuit, so is labelled that. It can't give you 30 amps at 220. Most of those plugs are 110/220 and a smaller gennie like that will only keep up with three 110 outlets.
Dear cars and cameras, I am no electrician. But two things you must know and remember about motors, motors always try to achieve their designated rpm either by volt aka a kv rating, or in AC there designated controlled rpm. To go below this rpm through load causes a proportional ramp in consumption. I'm almost tempted to build you one of these maybe even race ready.
While no electrician I've been doing what you say "don't try at home" since I was a pre-teen, learned much about electrical engineering mechanics and fabrication through the years even have an 69' Austin-Healey Sprite that when I finish I plan on coming to one of your meet n greets with a fantastic gift
I think with a little more thought and a lawnmower rear-end, you could a great machine. A hydro rear-end would be the best. That would give the gear reduction and reverse as well. This has inspired me so much, I am going to try to build one myself. Have a great 4th and I'll see you later.
Mounting horse from the left side started in Rome. Swords were worn on the left side, thus mounting from the left side would avoid entanglement with weaponry. So, indeed, it is a rule.
Some motors can be rewired in the pecker head for dual voltage 120/240 volt. FYI pecker head is the box on the motor where the wires are attached. Yes that's the name for it. Lol. See if you can rewire that and run the motor on 240 volts. May help with horse powers. There's a diagram on the cover to wire both ways. Google it if need be.
being that it is a 5hp ac motor it should only be 240v unless it is a specialty motor for a specific task that can needs to be 120v. 5hp= 3730w / 120 = 31.08amp.
@@matthewrichmond5179I had a 5hp dual voltage motor on my compressor before the current 3 phase motor and VFD. They do exist especially the cheap Chinese made ones.
I guess I missed an episode where they talk about the absence of Charles. I hate speculating but I'd like to see Charles back up his World Record mini-bike runs. Try wiring some capacitors in the wiring to give the motor some extra current under initial load. The land rover motor is a Buick V6 Auto Palace couldn't cross reference the starter to 12 GM vehicles with the same one? That's one thing I hate about parts stores now. The person behind the counter is clueless about cars.
You've got to do a revisit on this I would love to see this working good it would make a great addition to your fleet and an awesome vehicle for the swap meet
The difference between a motor and an engine is more semantics than equipment. It is due to the fact that modern English is assembled from parts from other languages. An engine uses energy to generate force. A motor is a device that creates motion.
@@Brrrap743 not true. This is just a concept that some people have adopted. An engine is a machine or device that uses energy to generate force. A motor is a machine or device that creates motion.
Nothing sucks more than dragging a generator where it's needed. The darned things never rool well. Gear it down to where you can drive it reliably. Then some brakes.....LOL Cheers Terry
*Great Idea for you* Get a roll around white board. That way when you are explaining your plans, you can give us visuals. Love the channel and can't wait to see you again at Busco -The Z cup holder guy lol
A dimmer would kill the motor. A go kart is a high load from a dig, at low throttle the motor wouldn't turn so much as jerk in place from sudden shunts of full voltage, dimmers trim the leading edge of the waveform, going from gradual to a worse and worse chop, for the incandescent bulbs that light dimmers were designed for and modern dimmable bulbs were built to tank the punishment of, its just fine and it all works without issues, for an AC motor? You'd destroy it. At least it'd be fine, if making a pitiful whining noise, if it were a fan you were dimming, though you'd be shaving lifespan off the motor. Better to use a Variac instead of a dimmer. Edit: Never mind, this is a synchronous motor rather than a normal AC induction motor, it did come off a lathe after all.
I don't think that would work, afaik light dimmers work by basically chopping the AC waveform by only turning on the power when the voltage gets above a certain level, in either direction, AC motors don't particularly like that, doing so to a fan motor you can hear the motor whining the lower it goes until the motor stalls and just jerks in place. I've tried that before. Perhaps an old Variac, one of them boxed units with a big knob on the front, would work best, remove the knob, connect it through a chain reducer to a gas pedal, and boom you've got throttle, but it will keep moving forward at the minimum voltage. The unfortunate thing is, if you get a new one that can do the full 0-250V range, a proper throttle control for this application, it'll run you about 200 bucks, and they're hefty little units. Edit: Never mind, this is a synchronous motor rather than a normal AC induction motor, it did come off a lathe after all.
A dimmer would cause the motor to start whining and going too low with a load it'll stall and start jerking. Doing all that can damage the motor. For a fan, its okay, since the load drops as the speed drops, for this? It would kill the motor. A Variac is far superior despite their weight and price. Edit: Never mind, this is a synchronous motor rather than a normal AC induction motor, it did come off a lathe after all.
@@Fr3nchFR135 That makes no difference. You can see on the top of the motor a large capacitor bump. That's a dead giveaway it's not the kind of motor that can be controlled wit a dimmer. It's a different beast than a small ceiling fan motor which usually only have 3 or 4 speeds and these are enabled by using different winding configurations. You need a VFC or Variable Frequency Controller for the type of motor they have. They are more complicated than a typical light dimmer, which is essentially a pulse width controller. One for this motor would cost about $200-$300, so not completely out of the question.
Reminds me of my first scooter. I talked a neighbour out of it and nothing worked on it. Even the tires were flat. I got the tires patched enough! Had no engine. So I took the electric motor off my Dad's bench grinder and nailed to the scooter. I plugged in an extension cord and went flying down the drive till I ran out of cord! I lived on a circle. I borrowed as many extension cords from my neighbors as I could get and I made it almost all the way around the circle till I unplugged myself! I had a blast on that thing. Not bad for a 6 year old! I'm now 72 and not much has changed!
That would work better than a dimmer switch, but not very well. An induction motor like this depends on the AC frequency. They are difficult to control. They should have used a universal motor.
They would, if the motor wasn't a synchronous motor. Someone else pointed that out and I noticed their comment (edit: and uni-byte here also mentioned it but somehow I missed it), lathes and mills use synchronous motors which always run at an rpm that is a multiple of the line current, to vary their speed you must vary the line frequency, changing their voltage with a Variac would actually only change the torque.
Make sure you’re using 240 on a 5 hp 240 volt motor, the reason it sucked was cuz you were at 120 volts on a circuit that could never possibly deliver the current required, try again you’ll get it, you can rewire the motors between 120 and 240 and change direction of rotation very easily
Your biggest issue here is not enough amperage from the generator for the load. The 5hp motor would require a minimum of 30 amps at 240volts which is 7200 watts at operating RPM. With headroom, you should probably have at least a 8500 watt generator to handle that motor at maximum load, and yours is only 3500 watts. That generator can only output 15 amps at 240 volts. (3600 watts) The 1hp motor doesn't have the load capacity as it seems to be maxxing out your genny anyway even at a 30 amp load (the full 3500 watts).
I never ever seen anybody do anything like that before. Hell I would built something like that to go on trail rides and then camp and use the generator to power the lights.
Isaac looks like will Farrell the whole video and his acting was same kind of comedy he even said it was a terrible idea lol don't know if it was intentional but if it wasn't even better
This is awesome content in my opinion.😁 The guy in the red shirt, was he famous before Car's and Camera's? Seems like I've seen him somewhere before. I did the same thing with a 36 Volt Alternator a Predator 212CC and 2 brushless motor's, worked great!!😁
What he said about a dc motor is correct. Get a ac-dc converter, a 3000 watt speed controller, and a 3000 watt electric motor and youll be flying on that thing😂
If you want to get back into racing again there is a 100 mile long race named Odessa 100 it's sort of like the gambler 100 but it's in Washington State and it's a very tough track. You'd be lucky to finish anyways it might be a good option for a bigger challenge for to test your builds and also gain more knowledge of riding.😅
Total power is 746wattsx5= 3730W. Your generator is 3500w or there abouts. If your generator was a 5000w then you'd be in business. A 2 or 3hp motor would be easier though
ive had a 5kw generator that ive been saving for something like this for about 10 years now... only i wanna try using the direct output of the 240v going into a welding transformer, and from there going into a bridge rectifier. its still going to need a master power switch, but i want to use the throttle on the gasoline engine to vary the voltage coming out of it, which shouldnt be a big deal when using with a DC motor... now i have a bit more motivation to try this lmao
Would a dimmer switch work as a throttle? On the second motor? Y could set it on high and work the peddle to the couch back wards to slow down.Or a torque converter?
The fact that you use a gas engine to run a electric motor is just funny and cool to make it drive , its a cool build keep up the crazy different builds.
Caster also makes the steering wheel return to the center, after taking a corner. It's actually a hybrid. the clutching set up is very similar to what was used on a model T Ford. where a person pushes the clutch pedal down to move forward. and the throttle is on the steering column. and the gas engine normally is set at a pre chosen RPM. and the clutch is basically a slipper clutch. that controls the speed of the vehicle. the electric motor that you guys had. was probably a two speed motor that has a centrifically controlled by a switch in it the motor. because it takes a lot of current to start the motor. so the motor starts at one speed and switches to the other speed after the initial load is gone. John riding it side saddle was hilarious. LOL.
5 HP EQUALS 3728 WATTS- too much for the generator, popping the breaker. Glad you came to that conclusion. Your replacement motor works fine, but if you gear it down a little more, it'll off road so nicely.
If you fit one of your older, slightly broken CVT units with a throwout bearing instead of springs and weights, you could vary your speed with a lever....
Great build. On a 120/240 generator there are two 120v legs. Each one is half the total wattage. So if your generator is rated at 3000 watts, then it’s 1500 watts on each 120v leg. 1500 watts is the max single 120v load. Not enough to run the original motor. There is also a surge to deal with. A 120v only generator probably would have likely worked since the legs are running in parallel and you would have had access to all the watts. Also a 240v motor would have been able to access all the watts on this generator.
you need a variac. plug the variac in and then put a plug on the motor and plug it into the variac. you will need to do no real wiring and the motor will have some kind of speed control. the variac will vary the voltage but the output will still be ac since all it is is a fancy transformer.
also, another thing to consider is using a front loading washing machine motor. you can wire the stater and the stationary magnets in parallel for more torque or series for more speed. in combination with the variac it would control like it was DC
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Wouldn't a dimmer switch provide variable voltage to motor
Just go to the nearest thrift store and look for an old electric sewing machine and use the pedal from that for a throttle.
@@tstricklin4808you read my mind haha
@@dbomber69better use that sewingmachinemotor too then.
Connecting a (much) bigger motor to that pedal will just make it smoke (and burn).
@@tstricklin4808 No, or not really, a dimmer switch, aka a TRIAC, cuts off the leading portion of the AC waveform, which causes worse and worse jolts to the motor and will eventually just kill the motor. A Variac is what can provide variable voltage, its kind of in the name, Variac, Vari-AC, Variable AC, its a generic trade name for what is called a "variable autotransformer" and they have been used for decades to vary the voltage of AC devices and it also acts as a half-decent isolation transformer by nature. Add in a polarity switch between the Variac and the motor and you can go forward and backward.
Edit: Never mind, this is a synchronous motor rather than a normal AC induction motor, it did come off a lathe after all.
I think you guys are on to something here.....Drag Race Generators..........it's got a nice ring to it!
This is actually a super cool idea/concept gentlemen! As both an Electrical & Locomotive Engineer, I can tell you there's 2 options to do this correctly:
A.) Use a single phase 240V in 3 Phase out VFD rated at the max continuous power (Watts) of your generator, with a 3 phase Syncronous motor rated at or more than the Peak Watt output of your VFD/Generator.
B.) Remove the governor from the generator & throttle it like a gas drivetrain, which then converts your generator from 60hz fixed frequency to a variable frequency output. You would then remove & bypass the starting capacitors on that first motor you had. This would truly make it like a locomotive, albeit a VERY old school tech one (40-50s era Diesel-Electric Loco).
The thing with option B is you can't truly come down to 0RPM, as gas engines typically have an idle, so stopping completely wouldn't be possible. So you could either use a big contactor & switch as a sort of 'electrical clutch', or more interestingly wire the accelerator like a gas golf cart where it acts as a starter switch/kill switch built in to the throttle.
Another way to think of it is the motor acts as an 'electromagnetic transmission' to the gen motor.
^^Correction to my above reply to my comment (I don't like editing my comments):
I meant to say a way to think about it is the gen alternator + drive motor ('traction motor' more correctly) combo is like an 'electromagnetic torque converter single speed transmission' in line to the gen engine. This means the difference between motors' winding turn counts change the 'electromagnetic gear ratio' (properly referred to as "slip" in electric motor terminology)
A rusted flooded out generator, a pile of parts from the parts bin, a few bells and whistles from Go Power Sports and an "It'll be fine!" attitude... man I love this channel. Hope you guys have a fun holiday!
Pshhhh, you seen these guys do their thing? It'll Be Fine! Just like you said!
fr
Wish my “parts bin” looked anything near what theirs does…
Just wheels alone are a pain in the ass to come across now days
You need a 208V 3HP 3 phase motor with a 240V 1phase input to 208V 3 phase Variable frequency drive, use a potentiometer to control the frequency of the VFD, you'll have full torque, reverse, and can go from 0 to about 5000RPM on a 3600RPM 2 pole motor.
This is the correct answer. Used to do this for motors that we needed to ramp up slowly.
Bingo!
This !!!
Then you'll need a better generator
I bet that exceeds their electrical expertise and budget. But yes, you are right.
Being a retired senior electronics tech for over 40 years all I have to say is AAAAARRRRGGGGHHHH!
@@OldGreyBeard57 I'll second that
It's a real cringe fest, that's for sure!
When I read your comment I heard the screaming scientist voices from half-life.
Use a 240 sliding dimmer light switch, can use 2 springs 1 on each side on 1 side, and a throttle cable on the other side. That way you can actually have a working "throttle" lmao
That wouldn't work, you need to vary the frequency to change the speed of an ac motor. Reducing voltage or using a triac dimmer will only cause increased amp draw and component damage
That blue car in the back ground put this setup in for drive train
No no no, never throttle an AC motor under a high stall load like a go-kart or an industrial machine with a TRIAC dimmer, that murders the motor from the 60hz walls of voltage slamming into the windings. Its already a boat with the heavy generator, why not go elegant and use a Variac? As a variable transformer it varies the voltage itself, many consumer units can go from 0 to 250 volts and cost about 200 bucks for a 5kVA Variac, plenty enough power to handle this motor and generator. And also, as a big and heavy transformer, they tend to be immortal. I still have an old like 10 to 140 volt Variac that's older than my dad, and it still works flawlessly, the adjustment knob turns smoothly and precisely, and the geared stainless steel display dial rotates smoothly and still correlates very closely to the actual output voltage.
Edit: Never mind, this is a synchronous motor rather than a normal AC induction motor, it did come off a lathe after all.
@@Avetho 38:50 This came out of a large fan
I very much doubt that they would find a dimmer switch rated to 4kw
Always a good time working on a budget build!
Next use a starter motor
Use a VfD.
FJB
Use a 240 dimmer switch for a throttle
Dont give up on this. It’d be sweet in the pits.
I'll be the first to say " this sucks, they ain't working on the dragster this week". Instead they are doing a generator go kart. "I AM SORRY I WAS WRONG"! I never laughed so hard at CarsandCamers. Ike bailing on the go kart and John talking 1880 western so flawless! I'm still laughing! HATS OFF TO YOU BOYS!!!
This was hilarious back in the day we had a Go-Kart with the motor on hinges you sat in it moved the Handle which moved the engine which tightened the belt but if the belt popped off going down the road the spark plug would get you right in the back we used to put people on it and watch them get shocked and laugh our ass off !
I've got to say, as a railroader, I'm impressed that Ike understands how modern "Diesel-Electric" locomotives operate. Bravo! Great video BTW!
Regarding dimmers: These are synchronous motors, they will only ever operate at a speed that's determined by the frequency of the power source. Since that's 60hz, that's what you get. It's single speed, on-off. Dimmers aren't going to do anything but burn out.
That is an excellent point, I forgot to take that into account.
What about a voltage controller, like a fan speed controller, would that work?
@@wisecampmotorcycles8258 No, you *have* to change the frequency to alter the running speed.
You can drop voltage and make a synchronous motor drag slightly, but it gets extremely hot doing so and will stall in a heartbeat. All you're doing is making the motor draw more amperage until it can't, which is how copper turns to smoke.
@@mfree80286 correct the only way to change the speed would be to use a vfd
Adding a 3 phase motor and a vfd would give you more control.
Or a simple Variac between the motor and generator, and a polarity switch between the Variac and the motor. There's the throttle and the gear selector! Glad you didn't say TRIAC, lots of people don't realize that TRIAC dimmers kill these kinds of motors, they chop off the leading portion of the waveform, light bulbs handle that no problem but a high stall load on a motor makes the motor jerk worse and worse the lower you go in speed until they destroy themselves. You _can_ dim a fan, well _kind of_ at least, but it whines a lot and gets louder the lower you go as you hear the 60hz buzz and the higher order harmonics.
Edit: Never mind, this is a synchronous motor rather than a normal AC induction motor, it did come off a lathe after all.
1 phase universal motor with triac would be way better bc it would be more efficient
@@mihkus It would be less efficient, but far cheaper. A VFD can control a synchronous motor like this one, because its in the name, Variable-Frequency Drive, as those motors determine their RPM as a multiple of line frequency. VFDs are also expensive, so using an induction motor with a Variac transformer would be optimal, control RPM by controlling torque, and control torque by controlling the voltage of the smooth 60Hz sine wave. But if you use a TRIAC on an induction motor, you'll kill the motor, those control the RMS by chopping the front of the waves off by only conducting at a certain variable threshold and that basically slams the square-wave-like front of suddenly-high-voltage into a device designed to take a smooth sine wave and nothing but.
Or at least a potentiometer
@@SimonRiley115 that will not work
Switch to a dimmer switch guys, keep the spring loaded return but use a dimmer switch so you can get half throttle when needed. If you put in a reverse polarity switch after the dimmer you can cut throttle flip the other switch and now you have reverse.
The reverse polarity is a wonderful idea, the dimmer... not so much. A TRIAC will wreak merry hell on the motor and eventually kill it, a Variac instead alters the voltage rather than chopping off the leading edge of the waveform, so put the Variac right off the generator, then the polarity switch off the Variac's output to the motor, that way the Variac stays energized and you only swap the polarity so it can go full throttle forward or backwards. Transformers don't particularly enjoy being turned on and off often, but if you treat them right, they're essentially immortal. Or, so long as they're made well, like old American transformers.
Edit: Never mind, this is a synchronous motor rather than a normal AC induction motor, it did come off a lathe after all.
🗣️: HEY BRO I THINK SOMEONES TRAILER JUST GOT STOLEN
ME: nahh that’s just cars and cameras drivin by😂
Y'all DEF NEED to keep this project going!!! It's Absolutely Great!!! Tell Charles We Miss Him and Hope He Is Doing Amazingly Well!!! Have a Blessed Day Today and Everyday!!!
“Does it need lube?” 😂😂
Loved the idea guys! You all inspired me to think outside the box again. And I have a few new ideas myself. Thank you all for your time and creativity!
1 hp is 746 watts so if you know a hp rating for a motor you can calculate generator power that way. Watts = amps x volts so if you have an amperage rating instead of hp rating you can use that. Its way simpler than a lot of people think. Just be mindful of peak watt rating vs continuous.
On a 3500 watt generator you only have 15 amps available at 220V. A 5 hp motor will draw 17 amps. A 3 hp motor fed the proper amperage (10.2A) will make 3 hp. A 5 hp motor that is demanding more than the generator has will choke the generator down, and it will only make a few amps at best. Thats why the (I'm assuming 3hp) lathe motor is "more powerful" than the 5hp when properly matched with the correct current.
The "30 Amp" plug on that gennie is just meant to match to a 30 amp RV circuit, so is labelled that. It can't give you 30 amps at 220. Most of those plugs are 110/220 and a smaller gennie like that will only keep up with three 110 outlets.
Dear cars and cameras, I am no electrician. But two things you must know and remember about motors, motors always try to achieve their designated rpm either by volt aka a kv rating, or in AC there designated controlled rpm. To go below this rpm through load causes a proportional ramp in consumption. I'm almost tempted to build you one of these maybe even race ready.
While no electrician I've been doing what you say "don't try at home" since I was a pre-teen, learned much about electrical engineering mechanics and fabrication through the years even have an 69' Austin-Healey Sprite that when I finish I plan on coming to one of your meet n greets with a fantastic gift
It's a hybrid! Back to the roots loving it 😂
ive missed videos like this
What happened to Charles
I think with a little more thought and a lawnmower rear-end, you could a great machine. A hydro rear-end would be the best. That would give the gear reduction and reverse as well. This has inspired me so much, I am going to try to build one myself. Have a great 4th and I'll see you later.
Mounting horse from the left side started in Rome. Swords were worn on the left side, thus mounting from the left side would avoid entanglement with weaponry. So, indeed, it is a rule.
Some motors can be rewired in the pecker head for dual voltage 120/240 volt. FYI pecker head is the box on the motor where the wires are attached. Yes that's the name for it. Lol. See if you can rewire that and run the motor on 240 volts. May help with horse powers. There's a diagram on the cover to wire both ways. Google it if need be.
being that it is a 5hp ac motor it should only be 240v unless it is a specialty motor for a specific task that can needs to be 120v. 5hp= 3730w / 120 = 31.08amp.
yes that's what journey-level union morons call it. i have zero respect for those a$$holes.
@@matthewrichmond5179I had a 5hp dual voltage motor on my compressor before the current 3 phase motor and VFD. They do exist especially the cheap Chinese made ones.
@@theodorgiosan2570 I did say specific tasks.
My question is, where has Charles been?
He moved away to spend more time with his family. He moved to his hometown. I sure do miss his shenanigans though!
I’m not sure what is worse… the acting or the idea! 😂
But John’s accent makes up for it all! 😆
I guess I missed an episode where they talk about the absence of Charles. I hate speculating but I'd like to see Charles back up his World Record mini-bike runs. Try wiring some capacitors in the wiring to give the motor some extra current under initial load. The land rover motor is a Buick V6 Auto Palace couldn't cross reference the starter to 12 GM vehicles with the same one? That's one thing I hate about parts stores now. The person behind the counter is clueless about cars.
British to southerner to welding… 🤣😂🤣. You two are an Odd couple indeed . Absolutely brilliant my good gentleman ❤🔧🔧😎
You've got to do a revisit on this I would love to see this working good it would make a great addition to your fleet and an awesome vehicle for the swap meet
The difference between a motor and an engine is more semantics than equipment. It is due to the fact that modern English is assembled from parts from other languages. An engine uses energy to generate force. A motor is a device that creates motion.
@@WBatte1 an engine is something that has internal combustion creating power as were a motor is a rotational device pushed by current.
@@Brrrap743 not true. This is just a concept that some people have adopted. An engine is a machine or device that uses energy to generate force. A motor is a machine or device that creates motion.
Boys, I think you just need a variac. Don't you have one hooked up to the lathe? Change the frequency, change the motor speed.
Iv tried this before and the motor kept going into some protection mode and really didn’t like it
a variac controls voltage, which won't work for speed control on an ac induction motor.
You say variac but mean a VFD. Those are 2 very different things.
Nothing sucks more than dragging a generator where it's needed. The darned things never rool well. Gear it down to where you can drive it reliably.
Then some brakes.....LOL
Cheers
Terry
I was a generator mechanic in the army , so I would fix it, even though the go-kart idea is great 😂
*Great Idea for you* Get a roll around white board. That way when you are explaining your plans, you can give us visuals. Love the channel and can't wait to see you again at Busco -The Z cup holder guy lol
You should be using a potentiometer rather than a light switch in other words a light dimmer knob.
A dimmer would kill the motor. A go kart is a high load from a dig, at low throttle the motor wouldn't turn so much as jerk in place from sudden shunts of full voltage, dimmers trim the leading edge of the waveform, going from gradual to a worse and worse chop, for the incandescent bulbs that light dimmers were designed for and modern dimmable bulbs were built to tank the punishment of, its just fine and it all works without issues, for an AC motor? You'd destroy it. At least it'd be fine, if making a pitiful whining noise, if it were a fan you were dimming, though you'd be shaving lifespan off the motor. Better to use a Variac instead of a dimmer.
Edit: Never mind, this is a synchronous motor rather than a normal AC induction motor, it did come off a lathe after all.
As a British person I am half amused and half terrified at the happy slappy t-shirt.
If I wore one in the UK, I'd probably be lynched
You should wire in a Light DIMMER knob switch to use as a throttle!
I don't think that would work, afaik light dimmers work by basically chopping the AC waveform by only turning on the power when the voltage gets above a certain level, in either direction, AC motors don't particularly like that, doing so to a fan motor you can hear the motor whining the lower it goes until the motor stalls and just jerks in place. I've tried that before. Perhaps an old Variac, one of them boxed units with a big knob on the front, would work best, remove the knob, connect it through a chain reducer to a gas pedal, and boom you've got throttle, but it will keep moving forward at the minimum voltage. The unfortunate thing is, if you get a new one that can do the full 0-250V range, a proper throttle control for this application, it'll run you about 200 bucks, and they're hefty little units.
Edit: Never mind, this is a synchronous motor rather than a normal AC induction motor, it did come off a lathe after all.
@@Avetho 38:50 This came out of a large fan
The clutch set up reminds me of a self-propelled lawn mower.
Should have used a dimmer switch
No, a dimmer switch will not work very well with an induction motor.
A dimmer would cause the motor to start whining and going too low with a load it'll stall and start jerking. Doing all that can damage the motor. For a fan, its okay, since the load drops as the speed drops, for this? It would kill the motor. A Variac is far superior despite their weight and price.
Edit: Never mind, this is a synchronous motor rather than a normal AC induction motor, it did come off a lathe after all.
@@Avetho 38:50 This came out of a large fan
@@Fr3nchFR135 That makes no difference. You can see on the top of the motor a large capacitor bump. That's a dead giveaway it's not the kind of motor that can be controlled wit a dimmer. It's a different beast than a small ceiling fan motor which usually only have 3 or 4 speeds and these are enabled by using different winding configurations. You need a VFC or Variable Frequency Controller for the type of motor they have. They are more complicated than a typical light dimmer, which is essentially a pulse width controller. One for this motor would cost about $200-$300, so not completely out of the question.
Listening to Hank Hill and Daniel Day-Lewis repair a willy-bar was entertaining
This is great 😂 GOLDEN idea 👏
Just bought my first frame and 212 predator because of you guys! Excited to get started.
Awesome work get a house dimmer switch u can control the power input to the motor as u turn it
Reminds me of my first scooter. I talked a neighbour out of it and nothing worked on it. Even the tires were flat. I got the tires patched enough! Had no engine. So I took the electric motor off my Dad's bench grinder and nailed to the scooter. I plugged in an extension cord and went flying down the drive till I ran out of cord! I lived on a circle. I borrowed as many extension cords from my neighbors as I could get and I made it almost all the way around the circle till I unplugged myself! I had a blast on that thing. Not bad for a 6 year old! I'm now 72 and not much has changed!
You need a Variac for it.
That would work better than a dimmer switch, but not very well. An induction motor like this depends on the AC frequency. They are difficult to control. They should have used a universal motor.
They would, if the motor wasn't a synchronous motor. Someone else pointed that out and I noticed their comment (edit: and uni-byte here also mentioned it but somehow I missed it), lathes and mills use synchronous motors which always run at an rpm that is a multiple of the line current, to vary their speed you must vary the line frequency, changing their voltage with a Variac would actually only change the torque.
1hp is 746w x 5 is 3730w constant, your generator is 3500w peak. a 3.5hp could work just fine!
Definently need a version two
Inverter, 2 motors for a E bike , brakes, larger tyres, hitch & trailer for equipment.
C & C you don't disappoint 😂❤ im expecting a part 2.
You can make that go cart generator a trailer the has front steering wheels and you can build a off-road cart to haul it to any location.
round 2 that is so cool
Make sure you’re using 240 on a 5 hp 240 volt motor, the reason it sucked was cuz you were at 120 volts on a circuit that could never possibly deliver the current required, try again you’ll get it, you can rewire the motors between 120 and 240 and change direction of rotation very easily
THIS IS WHAT CARS AND CAMERAS IS ALL ABOUT!!! I LOVE IT!!!
21:52 engines could be diesel or hydrogen powered as well.
Your biggest issue here is not enough amperage from the generator for the load. The 5hp motor would require a minimum of 30 amps at 240volts which is 7200 watts at operating RPM. With headroom, you should probably have at least a 8500 watt generator to handle that motor at maximum load, and yours is only 3500 watts. That generator can only output 15 amps at 240 volts. (3600 watts)
The 1hp motor doesn't have the load capacity as it seems to be maxxing out your genny anyway even at a 30 amp load (the full 3500 watts).
😂 "I mean, how often do springs fail? It'll be fine."
I never ever seen anybody do anything like that before. Hell I would built something like that to go on trail rides and then camp and use the generator to power the lights.
Awesome build I like it
Isaac looks like will Farrell the whole video and his acting was same kind of comedy he even said it was a terrible idea lol don't know if it was intentional but if it wasn't even better
This is awesome content in my opinion.😁
The guy in the red shirt, was he famous before Car's and Camera's? Seems like I've seen him somewhere before.
I did the same thing with a 36 Volt Alternator a Predator 212CC and 2 brushless motor's, worked great!!😁
What he said about a dc motor is correct. Get a ac-dc converter, a 3000 watt speed controller, and a 3000 watt electric motor and youll be flying on that thing😂
If you want to get back into racing again there is a 100 mile long race named Odessa 100 it's sort of like the gambler 100 but it's in Washington State and it's a very tough track. You'd be lucky to finish anyways it might be a good option for a bigger challenge for to test your builds and also gain more knowledge of riding.😅
Total power is 746wattsx5= 3730W. Your generator is 3500w or there abouts. If your generator was a 5000w then you'd be in business. A 2 or 3hp motor would be easier though
Future project idea: DIY M274 Military Mule...
ive had a 5kw generator that ive been saving for something like this for about 10 years now... only i wanna try using the direct output of the 240v going into a welding transformer, and from there going into a bridge rectifier. its still going to need a master power switch, but i want to use the throttle on the gasoline engine to vary the voltage coming out of it, which shouldnt be a big deal when using with a DC motor... now i have a bit more motivation to try this lmao
You could use a DC motor with an inverter or use a vector drive VFD to control the speed of the AC motor.
“We know nothing about electrical” with a two wheel drive electric dirt bike right behind him😂
Best video to date, pure entertainment.
I'm only 12 min in but... use a big starter selenoid for the throttle. Hit a start button on the bars and go. Start button on 12v from battery.
You know the german Fedinand WW2 tank killer? Same setup, same problems. Completely useless in the field.
Always wanted to make one with the motor and electronics from a treadmill. Don’t know if it’d have the torque for an adult, but it’d be fun to try.
Would a dimmer switch work as a throttle? On the second motor? Y could set it on high and work the peddle to the couch back wards to slow down.Or a torque converter?
Most of it will work again as long as it's dried out before ever trying to start it had TVs work after being out through winter months
The fact that you use a gas engine to run a electric motor is just funny and cool to make it drive , its a cool build keep up the crazy different builds.
When they were explaining what they wanted to do it brought back memories of when they made the cart with the wireless controls 🤣🤣🤣
Have the (heavy) motor position fixed, have the pedal move a (light) idler pulley for tension.
Iv been watching u guys since ur video on why older go carts are better than newer ones. Love the vids!
This is the kind of sketchy entertainment I started watching y'all for. Love it!!!!
Caster also makes the steering wheel return to the center, after taking a corner.
It's actually a hybrid.
the clutching set up is very similar to what was used on a model T Ford. where a person pushes the clutch pedal down to move forward. and the throttle is on the steering column. and the gas engine normally is set at a pre chosen RPM. and the clutch is basically a slipper clutch. that controls the speed of the vehicle.
the electric motor that you guys had. was probably a two speed motor that has a centrifically controlled by a switch in it the motor. because it takes a lot of current to start the motor. so the motor starts at one speed and switches to the other speed after the initial load is gone.
John riding it side saddle was hilarious. LOL.
So, they have a wagon cart, a coffin cart, a generator cart...next will be a toilet cart. Call it "the John." 😉
In order to get variable speed out of it you should put a rheostat in line with the motor
i laughed a lot in episode. good job guys
should do a custom cars & camaras paint job on it
If you can find a powerful enough dimmer, you can throttle an AC motor.
5 HP EQUALS 3728 WATTS- too much for the generator, popping the breaker. Glad you came to that conclusion. Your replacement motor works fine, but if you gear it down a little more, it'll off road so nicely.
u gotta have a ground path from the case to the battery... :D
People were shocked when they found out Ike wasn't a very good electrician...
I think a 240 V motor would be better Because it splits the load across both of the generator phases if it has them
You guys are awesome!! Love the skit at the end
Round 2 for sure
Works great! Just ad an alternator a battery then drive the wheels with a starter motor.
But you should have Put it on a dimmer switch with master kill
If you fit one of your older, slightly broken CVT units with a throwout bearing instead of springs and weights, you could vary your speed with a lever....
Clever
those gens output 12v at the panel usually, could run a dc motor
The hose clamp to hold the pulley on the moter is great 👍 😂😂😂
Great build. On a 120/240 generator there are two 120v legs. Each one is half the total wattage. So if your generator is rated at 3000 watts, then it’s 1500 watts on each 120v leg. 1500 watts is the max single 120v load. Not enough to run the original motor. There is also a surge to deal with. A 120v only generator probably would have likely worked since the legs are running in parallel and you would have had access to all the watts. Also a 240v motor would have been able to access all the watts on this generator.
So is it fair to say that it's a trans gener?? Transportational generator😂
Why don't you use a dimmer switch that turns it might be more like a throttle
It's also like the Warped Perception Tesla!
you need a variac. plug the variac in and then put a plug on the motor and plug it into the variac. you will need to do no real wiring and the motor will have some kind of speed control. the variac will vary the voltage but the output will still be ac since all it is is a fancy transformer.
also, another thing to consider is using a front loading washing machine motor. you can wire the stater and the stationary magnets in parallel for more torque or series for more speed. in combination with the variac it would control like it was DC