Great video - I'm about to need to do the same to start passing the cable for an external rear dash camera through the tailgate and into the passenger compartment.
There is 2 pass throughs on the passenger side and 1 on the driver side. I used the round one on the passenger side and bought an assortment pack of rubber grommet hole plugs that I could cut and seal up with silicone after the cable was pushed through.
@Overlanding4Fun are you talking about on the floorboard? I don't need to route anything that way - my rear dashcam camera is going to mount atop the CHMSL, and I'll route its cable through the grommet used for the brake light wiring, then through the door and into the side panel, and from there, along the sill boards up to the IP. Question about those button connectors - is there a trick to removing them fully? Just tried popping one off as a test but it seems the female portion of the connector (?) pulled out from the panel and remained on the male portion on the sheetmetal. I'm guessing I'll need to undo that when it comes time to put things back together again...
Hi Tim, Thanks for the video. Some year when my Bronco finally arrives I will need to do something similar. I plan on adding a full roof rack and will install antennas on it. I will need to feed the coax down the rear support and then into the Bronco. Looking at the radio body you have mounted I'm guessing you were trying to do something similar. It would be great if you could do another video on exactly how you got the wiring from the outside in. Keep up the good work!!! Chris
Thank you for watching the video. It was an after thought after I had pulled everything out, but thought it might help out someone looking for the Aux power in the rear. On the deck, there are 3 rubber grommets, 2 on the passenger side and 1 on the drivers side that will allow you to pass the coax from outside to the inside. I am planning on covering the install of the radio, remote head, power and antenna.
@@lxatoledo really, I just need to get in there to connect to aux switch, do you think the KC Hilites control module and wires would fit in there? I def don’t want to break any clips
@@Overlanding4Fun there is a bit. I do not have the removable panel in the top center and of course my panel goes to the front door. Overall mine appears a good bit shorter. I also didn't have to remove the floor panel as the lip was barely an edge and slipped right out.
I am experiencing that vibration in my 2 door. Was it easy to fix? I'm worried about removing that panel and wondering if the warranty covers something like that?
I had to remove the kick panel and speaker cover to see it. It comes out of one bundle of cables closer to the door and the cut end was wrapped in to another bundle closer to the firewall. I had to tug on the wire a few times to get it free from the other bundle. It is terminated with shrink wrap like the other wires.
Hey Tim, see you tomorrow night - perhaps, on the All Terrain Monday night show. So, so summarize: 1. Remove the rear deck edging. 2. Remove the 4 tie downs. 3. Remove the deck covering (mat). 4. Remove the wire covering in the jam. 5. Unsnap & remove the inside paneling - access gained. Then, you basically have access to the wire that comes from the prewired Aux switches. Do you know what size fuse is on that wire? Tks - Adam Webber (SEAHUND) (2dr Badlands, V6/2.7, VB) coming...
Adam, that sounds correct on the summary. That wire is a 1.5 mm wire that should support up to 30 amps. Aux 1 is rated up to 30 amps, Aux 2 is rated up to 15 amps and aux 3-6 are rated up to 10 amps. The white/orange wire just runs from behind the glovebox to the back end. So in my case I wired up a set of rear pod lights to Aux 3. So under the hood I connected the violet/green wire to the white wire that runs from the drivers side firewall to behind the glovebox then connected it to the white/orange wire. In the back end I connected the white/orange wire to the red wire on the light harness and connected the black wire to a body ground to complete the circuit. I hope that helps.
This was more informative than the other video you mentioned. You are right, there are no good videos. This one was good, but I have a 2 door, so it's not exactly the same. But if gives me some ideas. Thanks
Thank you. I am getting ready to add two 30 amp circuits to the back end. I will make sure I record it from the beginning so the video is more then an after thought.
@@Overlanding4Fun Yeah oddly enough, I'm thinking about using one of my Aux switches for a trailer wiring connection instead of running a wire all the way to the battery positive as required. Thinking of using the 15amp for it.
Hi Tim, my bronco is coming in next week and it doesn’t have the sub woofer in the rear, would there be enough space to mount a weboost where your sub is behind the panel?
Andrew, I am not very familiar with the weboost models, but looking at the largest one for car/suv, I think you would be OK using the void where the sub would be mounted. The booster is listed at 6 x 4.5 x 1.5 inches. Here is the link to the spec sheet. assets.wilsonelectronics.com/m/3d524df63b34e81d/original/drive-reach-470154-spec-sheet.pdf
Hey there...new subscriber here. Thanks for this vid...it's helpful in taking the panels off. I have a 2021 base model. No bass set up tucked behind the panel. I'm planning on adding my own bass. I'm keeping everything stock as far as head unit. I'm going to add the LOC rca's so I can add an amp but I'm at a stand still as I'm at a loss of finding a remote wire to tap into. Which wire can be tapped into once I've got the rear quarter panel off?
Thanks for the sub! The wire I was using is the white/orange wire that runs from under the glovebox to the back. It is part of the aux switch wiring that is in the Bronco. Are you looking for a wire to power your amp or a remote trigger to turn on the amp?
@@Overlanding4Fun Just a standard remote wire(commonly blue for external amps). I'm planning on running a heavier gauge red wire with a fuse straight to the battery as that's what's the norm when pushing an amp/subs. Unless there's a pre-existing heavy gauge wire that Ford ran through specifically for amps you know of...then I'll just use that. Any advice & or tips are appreciated. The sound in these things are very tin canny -they definitely need audio upgrades.
So annoying.. Cheap plastic. My favorite part breaking the cheap panel push clips and then convincing myself that I don't need em. (Not typical type probably hard to find replacement). Secondly, why does it terminate dead center middle? Forces you to take entire panel off. Dumb, stupid, inconvenient and dumb. Thx for trying to address this procedure.
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If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments.
Thank you. This is exactly what I needed to wire bumper lights on my Bronco!
Ford has definitely made the process super easy between the Modular HD bumper and Aux Switches.
@@Overlanding4Fun doesn't look easy
late to the game but... anyone have a part number for the panel clip/retainers? Does Amazon have them?
Great video - I'm about to need to do the same to start passing the cable for an external rear dash camera through the tailgate and into the passenger compartment.
There is 2 pass throughs on the passenger side and 1 on the driver side. I used the round one on the passenger side and bought an assortment pack of rubber grommet hole plugs that I could cut and seal up with silicone after the cable was pushed through.
@Overlanding4Fun are you talking about on the floorboard? I don't need to route anything that way - my rear dashcam camera is going to mount atop the CHMSL, and I'll route its cable through the grommet used for the brake light wiring, then through the door and into the side panel, and from there, along the sill boards up to the IP.
Question about those button connectors - is there a trick to removing them fully? Just tried popping one off as a test but it seems the female portion of the connector (?) pulled out from the panel and remained on the male portion on the sheetmetal. I'm guessing I'll need to undo that when it comes time to put things back together again...
Hi Tim, Thanks for the video. Some year when my Bronco finally arrives I will need to do something similar. I plan on adding a full roof rack and will install antennas on it. I will need to feed the coax down the rear support and then into the Bronco. Looking at the radio body you have mounted I'm guessing you were trying to do something similar. It would be great if you could do another video on exactly how you got the wiring from the outside in. Keep up the good work!!! Chris
Thank you for watching the video. It was an after thought after I had pulled everything out, but thought it might help out someone looking for the Aux power in the rear.
On the deck, there are 3 rubber grommets, 2 on the passenger side and 1 on the drivers side that will allow you to pass the coax from outside to the inside. I am planning on covering the install of the radio, remote head, power and antenna.
Hola Tim. Great video!
Hola Joaquin. Thank you for watching the video.
Anyone have a link to his quarter glass cage protectors? Or know what they are called? I tried Google with no luck
Nice video, I haven’t seen anyone pull the entire thing off either and makes it hard to imagine what’s back there lol
When you are done... You will most likely have two broken push clips back there.
@@lxatoledo really, I just need to get in there to connect to aux switch, do you think the KC Hilites control module and wires would fit in there? I def don’t want to break any clips
There is room in there.....but you will most likely break clips. I think OP mentioned he broke clips too.@@RebeccaTiffany1
@@RebeccaTiffany1 i think it will fit -there is space in there
Thanks Tim. Had a bad vibration coming from the bass speaker there and needed to tear that all apart to insulate the box better.
I haven’t looked very closely, but is there much if a difference between the trim panels on a 2 door versus a 4 door?
@@Overlanding4Fun there is a bit. I do not have the removable panel in the top center and of course my panel goes to the front door. Overall mine appears a good bit shorter. I also didn't have to remove the floor panel as the lip was barely an edge and slipped right out.
I am experiencing that vibration in my 2 door. Was it easy to fix? I'm worried about removing that panel and wondering if the warranty covers something like that?
Where did you find the white with orange stripe wire behind the glove box? I found the brown, white and grey with orange stripe wires.
I had to remove the kick panel and speaker cover to see it. It comes out of one bundle of cables closer to the door and the cut end was wrapped in to another bundle closer to the firewall. I had to tug on the wire a few times to get it free from the other bundle. It is terminated with shrink wrap like the other wires.
@@Overlanding4Fun thanks. I finally found it.
Hey Tim, see you tomorrow night - perhaps, on the All Terrain Monday night show. So, so summarize: 1. Remove the rear deck edging. 2. Remove the 4 tie downs. 3. Remove the deck covering (mat). 4. Remove the wire covering in the jam. 5. Unsnap & remove the inside paneling - access gained. Then, you basically have access to the wire that comes from the prewired Aux switches. Do you know what size fuse is on that wire? Tks - Adam Webber (SEAHUND) (2dr Badlands, V6/2.7, VB) coming...
Adam, that sounds correct on the summary. That wire is a 1.5 mm wire that should support up to 30 amps. Aux 1 is rated up to 30 amps, Aux 2 is rated up to 15 amps and aux 3-6 are rated up to 10 amps.
The white/orange wire just runs from behind the glovebox to the back end. So in my case I wired up a set of rear pod lights to Aux 3. So under the hood I connected the violet/green wire to the white wire that runs from the drivers side firewall to behind the glovebox then connected it to the white/orange wire. In the back end I connected the white/orange wire to the red wire on the light harness and connected the black wire to a body ground to complete the circuit.
I hope that helps.
This was more informative than the other video you mentioned. You are right, there are no good videos. This one was good, but I have a 2 door, so it's not exactly the same. But if gives me some ideas. Thanks
Thank you. I am getting ready to add two 30 amp circuits to the back end. I will make sure I record it from the beginning so the video is more then an after thought.
@@Overlanding4Fun Yeah oddly enough, I'm thinking about using one of my Aux switches for a trailer wiring connection instead of running a wire all the way to the battery positive as required. Thinking of using the 15amp for it.
It’s listed in the manual that’s on your radio.
Its Bronco Santa
Hi Tim, my bronco is coming in next week and it doesn’t have the sub woofer in the rear, would there be enough space to mount a weboost where your sub is behind the panel?
Andrew, I am not very familiar with the weboost models, but looking at the largest one for car/suv, I think you would be OK using the void where the sub would be mounted. The booster is listed at 6 x 4.5 x 1.5 inches. Here is the link to the spec sheet. assets.wilsonelectronics.com/m/3d524df63b34e81d/original/drive-reach-470154-spec-sheet.pdf
@@Overlanding4Fun thank you
Hey there...new subscriber here. Thanks for this vid...it's helpful in taking the panels off. I have a 2021 base model. No bass set up tucked behind the panel. I'm planning on adding my own bass. I'm keeping everything stock as far as head unit. I'm going to add the LOC rca's so I can add an amp but I'm at a stand still as I'm at a loss of finding a remote wire to tap into. Which wire can be tapped into once I've got the rear quarter panel off?
Thanks for the sub! The wire I was using is the white/orange wire that runs from under the glovebox to the back. It is part of the aux switch wiring that is in the Bronco. Are you looking for a wire to power your amp or a remote trigger to turn on the amp?
@@Overlanding4Fun Just a standard remote wire(commonly blue for external amps). I'm planning on running a heavier gauge red wire with a fuse straight to the battery as that's what's the norm when pushing an amp/subs. Unless there's a pre-existing heavy gauge wire that Ford ran through specifically for amps you know of...then I'll just use that. Any advice & or tips are appreciated. The sound in these things are very tin canny -they definitely need audio upgrades.
32 views!
So annoying..
Cheap plastic. My favorite part breaking the cheap panel push clips and then convincing myself that I don't need em. (Not typical type probably hard to find replacement). Secondly, why does it terminate dead center middle? Forces you to take entire panel off. Dumb, stupid, inconvenient and dumb. Thx for trying to address this procedure.
11 views
Thank you watching.
24 now! Get ya some Tim!
Now 49...