Prismatic LiFePO4 cell prices have once again come down. Even with the wide-spread popularity of cheaper-than-ever, commercially-build lithium packs, you can still build your own for a lot less. I mean like 35% less and with all of the high-end features such as low-temperature cutoff and Bluetooth app connectivity. In this video, I will show you how I built a 280A pack for less than $700 and where I sourced all of the parts. Buy 280Ah LiFePO4 Cells from Shenzhen Qishou Tech www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Grade-a-lifepo4-3-2v-280ah_1600551390417.html?spm=a2747.manage.0.0.73e871d2RVwOMi Buy RadioB Tech 120A BMS: amzn.to/39OYgYA My Preferred LiFePO4-Compatible Smart Charger: amzn.to/3A2eeJq
I am a very novice LiFeP04 guy looking for the best, most cost effective solution for my needs...This video was excellent...How many cells can you actually add to that BMS and it still work? I have a truck bed camper and want to max out the AH for the space I have available. So can you build a 400 AH battery this way, using the same parts, just more cells? and do you have any other forums you are a host/member of that i might be able to sign up for?
This guy is awesome, thank you so much for sharing. I used to buy a lot of ADCBATT 100ah lifepo4 batteries and although they are not expensive and still work, I plan to make one myself.
I thought that the cells from Ali express were b grade junk? I’ve heard several people never even got their batteries. Now, these were complete batteries, not cells, so maybe it’s different?
@@robertboyer5498 AliExpress is a platform with thousands of independent sellers. So the quality varies from each one. You can not blanketly assume anything across all of them.
Thanks for taking the trouble to share this. I dropped over 1500 UK pounds on drop-in batteries for my last boat, and on my current project decided to take the smart way and build my own pack. Just yesterday I got my box of Eve 280 cells and a good BMS, and am just getting started putting it all together. I had already got it pretty much all figured out, but it was great to run through it all again, and especially to pick up hints like the plastic between the cells and the issue of heating from the BMS. Well presented band clear. Top stuff.
Nicely done, straight forward, simple to follow by design. Thanks for sharing the education. I’ve got 16 cells 100ah that need a Bms to construct either a 12, 24, or 48v battery. This has been very helpful in understanding what needs be done to continue. 👍🏼
I have been using similar batteries to these as almost my only source of power for nearly 4 years now, all done from youtube videos like this and zero experience. The price to performance has improved so quickly in that time, roughly 40% more capacity for the same size and weight for less money is incredible.
people should not be afraid to try this, I really appreciate those who will encourage diy crafting. Some of the direct replacement options are total crap and unless you are willing to cut them open and see what is inside you have no idea what you have bought.
If you are not afraid you should try. If you are, you should not. I've seen too many poorly constructed electrical project built into moving vehicle and enough fiery inferno as a result to think everyone should do it. There are more than enough budget yet high quality batteries out there. Just buy a name you recognize and you will be fine.
WOW, nice and simple build one of the best to be honest and straight to the point, and yes LifePo4 batteries are the best I am glad you went with the Eve brand as I have heard a lot of good positive feedback from other folks too, thanks for sharing man, cheers.
i just bought a 304ah with heating for 1700 euro, it just has a JBD bms and eve cells - i know this costs only about 5-600 euro so its was hard to swallow, but it helps a local guy out and i dont have to think about it, i think next time in 10 years or so I will build my own.
this was fascinating but i disagree about one thing, i would definitely put the BMS on top. Put it on the side and it's vulnerable to squishing or impacts, but on the top it's protected somewhat by the + and - terminals. And i would cut the sensor leads (and the ground leads) as necessary. Because the input impedance of those sensor inputs is quite high. That means that those leads are not pulling any real current and so cannot drop a measurable amount of voltage no matter how long they are. I noticed that in the menu settings the balance precision was set to 30mV. The voltage drop on those leads is much less than 1mV. Great work though, thanx for posting.
Thanks. There are lots of pros and cons to how to build a simple pack. Doing what makes sense to you is what is important. This is just meant to show the easiest, no frills build so that more people can understand how they come together. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for sharing the knowledge. As right now, you can buy Chins 300AH around $970. I don't see much of the saving because the cost of 4 cells 3.2v is $750 + $130 BMS + bluetooth.
If not a lot of savings you will have more features like low temp protection, Bluetooth connectivity, smaller footprint and most of all, ease of maintenance. This for me was less than 700 bucks all in. I don't know about you but that's more than 300 bucks cheaper than Chins using my math especially when factoring in tax.
Hi Dan, BTW The 280K is the 6,000 cycle battery from EVE as the 280 normal is 3 - 4,000 cycles. Best charging the batteries in parallel to connect the positive at one end and the negative at the other end of the battery bank. This will avoid the first cell in the line taking the most current and last one the least. If you get a chance to try the JK BMS it is the best on the market according to me and Off-Grid Garage on RUclips. André
What do you like about JK BMS? Active balancing? And you actually believe what Andy says over there from his broken shack down under?!?! Just kidding 😂 He's making some good content over there.
@@freelyroaming Yes the active balancing is the main difference. It is fully featured and seams to be very reliable. I was commited to package deal with a DeliGreencs BMS new parallel version so I could not change. André
Thanks for the concise video... One comment: The cell sense wires of the bms CAN be cut, there is no way 20ga wire, at .01 ohms per foot at 3,2 volts, with virtually zero current draw, is going to have any voltage drop. I notice nearly all the DIY builders think the same way, which tells me they all watch each others channels. The instrument doesn't have close to the resolution to read any difference. Simple ohms law for voltage drop. It would be microvolts
Of course it can be cut practically speaking. But when you make a video showing people how to do things, you need to teach best practices. The best practice is to not shorten them. There might not be a measurable difference but there is a difference at least in microvolts.
Hi, since Im taking a deep dive into renewable energy, I understand there is a cost saving in a DIY version of a battery vs buying a LiFePo4 battery. My question is the following, how big or small is the safety concern of a daily use of a system built DIY vs just buy a portable solar generator system with a battery bank integrated in the same compartment like the Bluetties and Jacakrys? I do like to tinker with stuff, and you made it look fairly easy to build that 280AH battery. That motivated me to think in building a system.
That's why I used. Although it's really not likely to reach any temperature hot enough to cause the adhesive to fail when this is used in an low c rate environment.
Nice video. One item that you should consider doing is to connect the main negative load leads directly to the battery terminal, then attach the balance lead on top of the load leads. That way the load leads have better contact with the battery terminal and the lug for the balance lead is not carrying load current.
He's talking about the stacking order of the ring terminals on the lug. It's not really that critical for off grid power use but for high current draw applications like EVs it might help. But even then it's not really gonna make any noticeable difference. Just best practices kinda thing.
@@freelyroaming 2000wh lifepo4 with a 2000w pure sinewave inverter, 360watt DC to DC, 1000watt solar mppt, 500 watt ac charger, high power usb charging and car charging input. All built into a portable high quality container with a touch screen. Good luck making that for under $650.
@@viyusavery248 still can't beat this. Even if you cobble together the cheapest components. Good luck matching the specs for under $650 and good luck making that portable and as clean as a unit like these.
Nah, its a dumb thing to post because that is not the actual fair market price of the ac200p. it's like when someone buys something from Facebook marketplace and compares it to the retail price of the item. We are talking about products everyone can go out and buy. Not someone bragging about finding some refurbished or closeout deal.
These batts will probably be lower in price over time. The other facet not mentioned in this video is the ability to add more cells either in series or parallel. Either changing the bms or adding another depends on how you wire. But these are a great starter with budget in mind which can be increased over time without tossing any you've already purchased. 16 in series give you a 48 nominal volt setup which requires smaller wiring for the same watts used. The versatility is just wonderful.
Great video thank you. For your BMS and heat issue, why not place a thick sheet piece of silicone from a cheap silicone pot holder. Also did you have to pay $110 shipping per battery?
I live in Canada. Any chance you could recommend a BMS with same features but also able to accommodate heat pads. Appreciate the tiem and effort you put into your videos.
@@lyndsaybeck2249 use an active balancer (aB) for your 100Ah cells. They have much more precisious performance then such types. You configure only the cutoff voltages (2,5Vmin / 3,65Vmax per cell) in your inverter. The balancer manage the cells until 0,001V difference. An aB produce no heat and your system has no powerl loss! negative: aB have no BT and Apps if you want present your cells your neighbour ....
How does the battery charge on negative? You leave the negative bms wires "hanging?". Huh, interesting. I would have thought you would be connecting loads directly to the battery but i guess if the bms has protections it hzs have to have the current go through it
That's correct. If you connect directly to battery negative, it would work of course but you would lose all of the protections of the BMS. Because this is a common port BMS, it means it charges and discharges from the same negative port. The protection schemes apply to both charging and discharging so you never want to connect anything directly to the raw negative battery post besides the BMS.
@@freelyroaming That makes sense now. Thanks a lot for making this video! It looks pretty straightforward to build this. That's a huge battery ! 4Kw of energy for only $700ish, wow
Thanks , very educational for beginners. Very good video compared to others out there. You stressed safety which is very important but safety glasses and at least sunglasses should be worn at all time working on battery like you did. No metal when welding or electrical work period.
Nice video, Im thinking about building one myself and took contact with the reseller you linked, so did you have any problem with them and Cassie Wang there said it would cost 560$ with shipping and all to Europe. So you think that this is a good price or should I wait?
You always have to specify Ah along with the nominal voltage. Each cell is 3.2V at 280Ah which makes 896 Wh (3.2x280). When you connect 4 of these cells in series you will increase the voltage but the Ah rating stays the same. So the full pack will be 12.8V at 280Ah which makes 3584 Wh. Watt hour is a much better way to describe battery capacity because it can be stated alone without any other specifications.
I started with these exact batteries, built a pack of 16 in series @ 48v, I'm now building my 4th pack with a combined 57,344wh pushing 2 6500k inverters, and everything works great.
Nice work! Why was BMS chosen for a maximum current of 120A? It's only 1.44 kW. Is this power enough? Your battery can give much more, at least 2 times. For example, 200A (power = 2.56 kW) or even 250 A (power = 3.2kW). What is the basis for choosing a BMS with a maximum current of 120A? Thanks for the answer!
There are a few things you should take care of, apart from not assembling the battery on a steel table. Don't use an adjustable wrench to tighten the nuts - it.s too easy to accidentally creating a short circuit. Use a socket wrench instead. Don't use scissors to cut tie-raps but use short snips (with insulated handles) for the same reason. Do not tie-rap all balancing wires together, if there is any damage on the insulation of the wires you may get fire or at least smoke. Do not tie-rap the C- and B- wires in one bundle - if they short circuit you are disabling the complete BMS. Never ever use those large heavy cells wrapped in just packing tape. It's too easy to get a puncture in the wrapping or denting the cells. Also, follow the manufacturers specifications on how to mount these cells. I've seen manufacturers specifying that you must compress these cells to make sure they cannot bulge, resulting in de-lamination of the cell. How do you think these are EVE cells? EVE is a brand with a well known reputation so anyone selling EVE cells will leave the EVE label on the battery or at least have their own label with "Manufactured by EVE" on it.
You should watch some more of my videos before making your critiques. I've got plenty of real world and technical experience building off grid electrical systems. 'Not my first rodeo' is the common expression .There is plenty of other videos showing how I've built packs that I actually use. As I stated pretty clearly in the video, this was not meant to be a 'best practices' build video. It is just to show how components go together which was something requested by subscribers. And for a non-mobile setup, there is zero risk of insulation rubbing, chafing and shorting. As a full time traveler who does a lot of DIY projects, we don't have the luxury of a workshop full of tools. Learning to do with what you have is a very useful skill. It is all about understanding and assessing the risks and make it work with what you have. I assume you just landed here from RUclips recommendations without knowing other already posted contents my channel. There is one all about cell compression as it sounds like you might learn a few things from it.
Hello, I've seen a few of your awesome videos and am now hoping to get some advice. I'm new to the battery / car camping scene. I plan to keep an Amazon LiFePO4 battery (maybe 2) in my car as a power source for a Dometic fridge, lights, laptop, etc. so I can live in my car on the weekends. I'm still shopping / researching so I wonder if Group Type matters, mixing battery / inverter brands or things like that matter? I want to charge the batteries at work then bring it to my car and shelf in the cabin with me. So far it sounds like I'd need the battery, and an inverter. And I think I can just plug a power strip into the inverter? Do you see any issues or have any advice for this type of use?
Great information will help me greatly deal I'm goin to make battery pack to charge on off peak electric @ night to use during day giving me 24hr off peak lectricity shud save a great deal with big rise in energy prices, think l need to aim for sbout 10kw to run bungalow in day! Don't think l should have any problem putting that together, I'm a retired electronics tech! Just hope l can get all stuff you got shipped here to U.K. very good presentation lot good information thanks so much saves me time on researching all this myself!🤗🤩😎🌹
No they don't do RUclips. We actually just spent a day with them last week. they have been living in Colorado while their son goes to high school. He was out here on California visiting college campuses.
I'd like to build a 36 volt 100 amp hour battery for my 36 volt ezgo golf cart. Any suggestions on components would be appreciated. Thank you, great videos !
I'd like to build a 36 volt for my EZGO golf cart. How many cells would I need to equal six 6 volt Trojan T-105's ? And, can it be done ? Great videos, enjoy watching......
I did this set up with just the 120 amp bms. I have a 40 amp. Rich charge controller and two 200 watt. Panels. Also 3000 watt pure sine inverter. I have been all over the app and can't get my cells to charge past 13.4. I put my Noco genius 10 on it with the bms hooked up and I only get 13.4 and only 3 out of 4 red bars on the charger no matter how long I wait. When I charge the cells without the bms hooked up, I get 14.4. Then, as soon as I hook the bms up it takes it down to 13.4. I have calculated about 50% capacity. Maybe less. The only thing I can think of is the bms needs to be a 250amp? Advice would be perfect. Maybe parameters I need to change? Thanks
I've ordered cells from Shenzhen Qishou (QSO) manufacture but I have concerns. Now that iIve found your video, how do these QSO cells perform, two years on? Are they worthy?
well, some BMS units from JK integrate both functions into the BMS. There is a ~3A output from the JK BMS which turns on and diverts charging energy from the cells into a heating pad (or into a relay if your pad needs more than 3A). I'm ok using the existing BMS temp sensors rather than doubling them up and introducing independent controls. I was hoping that RadioB had a similar solution.
That was great. I'm just starting to think about building a battery system. So the two temperature wire r for low & high temperature, right? Do u hv a video about discharging & charging the battery b4 u build the battery pack? I need to know what type of equipment is used to do that?
The most common charger is often a 30V 10A bench power supply that goes for $75 on Amazon. You could probably get a higher amperage charger for ONE specific voltage but that gives you no flexibility so I would really recommend getting a bench power supply. If you can afford something that can do 20A then I would recommend it just to save yourself some time. Discharging…first ask yourself, do you want to capacity test? For $50 you can get a DL24 load tester but it’s limited to discharging at a max of 150W or 20A. If you don’t want to capacity test then you could hook up a super basic DC load (bulb) or get some bigger power resistors and use ohms law to calculate a load small enough that won’t melt some 100W resistors but big enough that it won’t take centuries to drain it. You need a low voltage disconnect module
@@bobforte9343Wow thank u for all that info. I'll do some more research about all that u noted. I'm a visual person so reading the info I don't get yet. But I truly hope ur explanations. 👍🏾😊
Hi: Thanks for this video. Can this cell pack and BMS times 3 power my golf cart, or is there to much inrush current for this BMS. No doubt the batteries can do the job, but how about the BMS.? Thanks. Bob
Correct me if I'm wrong but last time I checked, red was positive and black was negative. You appeared to have connected the blue bms negative leads to the positive terminal on the battery pack. Just an observation
@@wg6215 he connected it in series to achieve a higher voltage which is good to power high voltage devices/appliances and the ah remains same but if connected in parallel the voltage remains same but the ah increase which makes not be able to power high voltage devices /Appliances
I know a lot of these bms have Bluetooth, I’m thinking wifi connection for remote monitoring and data logging is highly desirable. Are there other bms with wifi connection or a Bluetooth - wifi bridge to log the data??
Very well.i have one question :i have 4 cells of this kind batery :12v/320A .the BMS must be 320A or less?i do not understand.can i use bms 150A?thank you
Didn't specify a torque spec. I am using a lock washer instead of the serrated flange nuts. I just get it down to snug and give it another 8th turn. Usually enough to hold.
Is there a reason you use three lugs on the BMS negative lead and bunch them all together on one stud, instead of crimping all three into one larger lug? It seems to me (ignorant) that it would eliminate a bit of the 'spider' and not have a huge stack of lugs on the battery stud?
Small wires crimped into large lugs have a tendency to slip out. Also it complicates the build as it requires you to undo the already-crimped sensing wires without adding much of a benefit as you will still have bundles of wires to manage.
@@freelyroaming Thanks for the reply! You really break it down for your audience. I'm unsure what the three thick current passing wires have to do with the thin sensing wires? 🤔 But I do see why they are using three silicone insulated wires to make the connection to the board more compliant. Great tutorial! Happy Trails
@@jimurrata6785 ah yes I see what you mean. The 3 wires from the BMS. It's just how the manufacturer have chosen to build them. 3 thinner, more flexible wires instead of 1 thicker one. Using 3 lugs also give you a bit more flexibility during the build process but a single large one could have worked but it would be slightly more restricting with regard to their angles of attachment.
200ah 12v lifep04 from redodo are 459. shipped and i even got a 30.00 amazon coupon so it was 429.00 kinda hard to beat, i am running a pair of them in series with my 3kw powmr all in one inverter for my camper.
200Ah Redodo doesn't have low temp cut off. For $469 you could have gotten a Golden Mate 200Ah that does like this diy kit. Running 2 of them takes up 3 times the space for someone with a smaller camper.
@@freelyroaming I had already watched a review on the redodo 200ah .. and understood that it had only a high temp cutoff. i am running a 18w warmer with auto thermostat it will cut on at 50'f and cutoff at 70'f (made for a chicken coop) since i am setting up inside a externally accessible storage area .. it looks to be the ideal answer to keep the batteries warm.
How many of those bats would be needed to run an RV 15,000 btu AC? So one said I’d need 7 or 8 400 watt panels on the roof.I think I can mount 7 on my roof but not 8.
Experiencing pain, seeing a bright yellowish-white flash of light and smelling my burned skin helps remind me to wear gloves from now on. 13V is enough to travel through a slightly sweaty skin surface. God saved me again. Aloe Vera gel is the best of God's creation to cure burns.
With the BMS you used can you program the max charging amps? I am building one for my van and wanted to know if I can program the BMS to a max 40 AMP charge. I could use a DC/DC charger if needed but would be nice if I could do it without the DC/DC charger.
So you have to use a special charger on this battery or can I treat it like a lead acid battery in my camper and just let the solar and Jeep charge it as if it was a standard house battery and the BMS does all the magic? I keep seeing people specify special lifepo4 chargers that pretty much defeat the purpose of these.
You need a charger that is compatible with lifepo4. Good quality modern chargers like victrons will have lifepo4 profiles in their settings. Not sure what you mean by defeating the purpose of them as the purpose is lighter weight and longer lifespan than lead acid among many others. Having to use a compatible charger is not really a big deal. BMS does not handle any charging duties. It is just there to protect the battery from damage.
@@freelyroaming it means the tow vehicle can not charge the battery as its designed to output 14.5V and not a computerized charging system to carefully balance charge LifePO4 batteries. I guess I assumed the BMS added to the batteries did all that but it seems you still need a special charger even if you have a BMS installed. How do the premade battery companies sell them claiming you dont need a special charger?
im building a pack myself for workdue to supply issue what does the 120amp rating on the bms stand for is that the most amps it can handle? if so how would i go about making a pack that can handle 800amps. this is for a mobile hydraulic stage
Can I use smaller BMS than cell nominal AH? For example, I got a 4x280Ah cell and use only 120Ah BMS? Is that secure? Can I use an even smaller 60Ah BMS?
Could all the tape cause the batteries (cells) to not dissipate heat well enough? This was very enjoyable to watch and makes me want to make one (or more).
Perhaps. But so would an enclosure. For off-grid power, the c rate is very low so batteries don't heat up that much. It would actually be a benefit in cold temps. Like I said, there are lots of ways to build a battery. this is just a good and fast way to build one in about 10 minutes for a RUclips video.
Cut the wires, the BMS has next to no current when measuring so therefore no voltage droop. Also when top balancing no need to wait when first connected but when charging leave at 3.65 for a few hours.
Thanks for a nice tutorial, what is the advantage of this battery over a 12V 680Amp 110Ah lead acid battery costing $200, is the lead acid battery working out cheaper per Ah at that rate?
well 110ah lead acid, compared to 280 lifepo4/for one thing. So basically you need 3 so there's $600 His LifePo4 battery can be run to near EMPTY, do that to a lead acid a dozen times it will be scrap. Lead acid shouldn't be discharged more than 50%-60%... if you expect any kind of longevity. So NOW you really only have a 50ah battery. NOW you need nearly 6. Hows the math going ? 6x$200? which would you prefer?
If you use a victron charger then you can just use their built in lithium charging profile. In one of my older videos of the battery build I did show it. I can make a quick video to show parameters.
Are you talking about 19:25? If so, it's not a problem. All 3 of those wires are combined into the main negative of the pack. There are just split into 3 conductors to be more flexible while still able to carry a full 120A load.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Prismatic LiFePO4 cell prices have once again come down. Even with the wide-spread popularity of cheaper-than-ever, commercially-build lithium packs, you can still build your own for a lot less. I mean like 35% less and with all of the high-end features such as low-temperature cutoff and Bluetooth app connectivity. In this video, I will show you how I built a 280A pack for less than $700 and where I sourced all of the parts.
Buy 280Ah LiFePO4 Cells from Shenzhen Qishou Tech
www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Grade-a-lifepo4-3-2v-280ah_1600551390417.html?spm=a2747.manage.0.0.73e871d2RVwOMi
Buy RadioB Tech 120A BMS:
amzn.to/39OYgYA
My Preferred LiFePO4-Compatible Smart Charger:
amzn.to/3A2eeJq
I am a very novice LiFeP04 guy looking for the best, most cost effective solution for my needs...This video was excellent...How many cells can you actually add to that BMS and it still work? I have a truck bed camper and want to max out the AH for the space I have available. So can you build a 400 AH battery this way, using the same parts, just more cells? and do you have any other forums you are a host/member of that i might be able to sign up for?
Johnny, I offer coaching sessions here
freelyroaming.com/coaching
This guy is awesome, thank you so much for sharing. I used to buy a lot of ADCBATT 100ah lifepo4 batteries and although they are not expensive and still work, I plan to make one myself.
I thought that the cells from Ali express were b grade junk? I’ve heard several people never even got their batteries. Now, these were complete batteries, not cells, so maybe it’s different?
@@robertboyer5498 AliExpress is a platform with thousands of independent sellers. So the quality varies from each one. You can not blanketly assume anything across all of them.
Thanks for taking the trouble to share this. I dropped over 1500 UK pounds on drop-in batteries for my last boat, and on my current project decided to take the smart way and build my own pack. Just yesterday I got my box of Eve 280 cells and a good BMS, and am just getting started putting it all together. I had already got it pretty much all figured out, but it was great to run through it all again, and especially to pick up hints like the plastic between the cells and the issue of heating from the BMS. Well presented band clear. Top stuff.
Nicely done, straight forward, simple to follow by design. Thanks for sharing the education. I’ve got 16 cells 100ah that need a Bms to construct either a 12, 24, or 48v battery. This has been very helpful in understanding what needs be done to continue. 👍🏼
I have been using similar batteries to these as almost my only source of power for nearly 4 years now, all done from youtube videos like this and zero experience. The price to performance has improved so quickly in that time, roughly 40% more capacity for the same size and weight for less money is incredible.
Best thing I ever did! Going to build out a second one this fall I think so I can run my AC on an inverter.
This is a fantastic video! Thank you for making this. Gives me the confidence to try it.
i bought 4 cells back in i wanna say 2020.. and just got that same exact bms recently. works well. very nice build dude!
Thanks man. Love this BMS!
Excellent video! Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
people should not be afraid to try this, I really appreciate those who will encourage diy crafting. Some of the direct replacement options are total crap and unless you are willing to cut them open and see what is inside you have no idea what you have bought.
If you are not afraid you should try. If you are, you should not. I've seen too many poorly constructed electrical project built into moving vehicle and enough fiery inferno as a result to think everyone should do it. There are more than enough budget yet high quality batteries out there. Just buy a name you recognize and you will be fine.
WOW, nice and simple build one of the best to be honest and straight to the point, and yes LifePo4 batteries are the best I am glad you went with the Eve brand as I have heard a lot of good positive feedback from other folks too, thanks for sharing man, cheers.
Simple video, easy to understand. Glad you suggested to beginners to watch other more detailed assembly and test steps.
i just bought a 304ah with heating for 1700 euro, it just has a JBD bms and eve cells - i know this costs only about 5-600 euro so its was hard to swallow, but it helps a local guy out and i dont have to think about it, i think next time in 10 years or so I will build my own.
If all goes normal world, a battery will be already built for 10c a watt
good work bro , I like every step keeping it simple. Jim
Great tutorial, can’t be more explicit. You got me. Cheers
Congratulations my friend the best battery for lifepo4, it's a big Peck.
this was fascinating but i disagree about one thing, i would definitely put the BMS on top. Put it on the side and it's vulnerable to squishing or impacts, but on the top it's protected somewhat by the + and - terminals. And i would cut the sensor leads (and the ground leads) as necessary. Because the input impedance of those sensor inputs is quite high. That means that those leads are not pulling any real current and so cannot drop a measurable amount of voltage no matter how long they are. I noticed that in the menu settings the balance precision was set to 30mV. The voltage drop on those leads is much less than 1mV. Great work though, thanx for posting.
Thanks. There are lots of pros and cons to how to build a simple pack. Doing what makes sense to you is what is important. This is just meant to show the easiest, no frills build so that more people can understand how they come together. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for sharing the knowledge. As right now, you can buy Chins 300AH around $970. I don't see much of the saving because the cost of 4 cells 3.2v is $750 + $130 BMS + bluetooth.
If not a lot of savings you will have more features like low temp protection, Bluetooth connectivity, smaller footprint and most of all, ease of maintenance. This for me was less than 700 bucks all in. I don't know about you but that's more than 300 bucks cheaper than Chins using my math especially when factoring in tax.
@@freelyroaming Espcially if youre going 48/51 Volts, savings add up.
Stay gold.
Hi Dan, BTW The 280K is the 6,000 cycle battery from EVE as the 280 normal is 3 - 4,000 cycles. Best charging the batteries in parallel to connect the positive at one end and the negative at the other end of the battery bank. This will avoid the first cell in the line taking the most current and last one the least.
If you get a chance to try the JK BMS it is the best on the market according to me and Off-Grid Garage on RUclips. André
What do you like about JK BMS? Active balancing? And you actually believe what Andy says over there from his broken shack down under?!?!
Just kidding 😂 He's making some good content over there.
@@freelyroaming Yes the active balancing is the main difference. It is fully featured and seams to be very reliable. I was commited to package deal with a DeliGreencs BMS new parallel version so I could not change. André
Thanks for the concise video...
One comment: The cell sense wires of the bms CAN be cut, there is no way 20ga wire, at .01 ohms per foot at 3,2 volts, with virtually zero current draw, is going to have any voltage drop. I notice nearly all the DIY builders think the same way, which tells me they all watch each others channels. The instrument doesn't have close to the resolution to read any difference. Simple ohms law for voltage drop. It would be microvolts
Of course it can be cut practically speaking. But when you make a video showing people how to do things, you need to teach best practices. The best practice is to not shorten them. There might not be a measurable difference but there is a difference at least in microvolts.
I am going to get this ordered up so that I can build out my own battery system for our camper.
That's exactly what I use it for. It has been great so far.
@@freelyroaming Outstanding!!!
Hi, since Im taking a deep dive into renewable energy, I understand there is a cost saving in a DIY version of a battery vs buying a LiFePo4 battery. My question is the following, how big or small is the safety concern of a daily use of a system built DIY vs just buy a portable solar generator system with a battery bank integrated in the same compartment like the Bluetties and Jacakrys? I do like to tinker with stuff, and you made it look fairly easy to build that 280AH battery. That motivated me to think in building a system.
Very good! Iuse strapping tape with glasfibers in it. In case of the cells getting hot, it wont fall apart.
That's why I used. Although it's really not likely to reach any temperature hot enough to cause the adhesive to fail when this is used in an low c rate environment.
Thanks for the tutorial. Was debating whether or not to get off the shelf stuff. But this seems pretty straight forward and has more potential.
nice pun!
thank you very much for this it has helped a great deal and very concise ,direct,well explained , and easy to follow .
You're welcome! Thanks for your comment and thanks for watching the video.
Been waiting for a video like this for a long time. Awesome job on the video!
Thanks. Sorry it took so long!
Thank you, very impressive! I'm picking up off-grid trailer soon and this build will be the perfect addition!
Nice video. One item that you should consider doing is to connect the main negative load leads directly to the battery terminal, then attach the balance lead on top of the load leads. That way the load leads have better contact with the battery terminal and the lug for the balance lead is not carrying load current.
But then it is not turning off if the voltage goes too low which is one of the main functions of the BMS. I would suggest not to do that.
He's talking about the stacking order of the ring terminals on the lug. It's not really that critical for off grid power use but for high current draw applications like EVs it might help. But even then it's not really gonna make any noticeable difference. Just best practices kinda thing.
@@freelyroaming Ok that makes sense. I understood that he didn't want the load to through the BMS. Sorry.
bought 2000wh ac200p for $650. cant beat that on DIY.
Well this aged badly considering how cheaper DIY batteries are now
It wasn't good even when it was posted then.
@@freelyroaming 2000wh lifepo4 with a 2000w pure sinewave inverter, 360watt DC to DC, 1000watt solar mppt, 500 watt ac charger, high power usb charging and car charging input. All built into a portable high quality container with a touch screen. Good luck making that for under $650.
@@viyusavery248 still can't beat this. Even if you cobble together the cheapest components. Good luck matching the specs for under $650 and good luck making that portable and as clean as a unit like these.
Nah, its a dumb thing to post because that is not the actual fair market price of the ac200p. it's like when someone buys something from Facebook marketplace and compares it to the retail price of the item. We are talking about products everyone can go out and buy. Not someone bragging about finding some refurbished or closeout deal.
lol 2 years later i just bought a 12v lifepo4 100ah battery for only 140 dollars after shipping and taxes so im glad i waited
where?
@@brooksmaczka4150 AMAZON theres a bunch for 150.00 dollars with a bluetooth aop
I just got one from all express for total $138
These batts will probably be lower in price over time. The other facet not mentioned in this video is the ability to add more cells either in series or parallel. Either changing the bms or adding another depends on how you wire. But these are a great starter with budget in mind which can be increased over time without tossing any you've already purchased. 16 in series give you a 48 nominal volt setup which requires smaller wiring for the same watts used. The versatility is just wonderful.
Good now very good
Excellent. I like your posts.
Nice job! Thanks for making this video.
Great video thank you. For your BMS and heat issue, why not place a thick sheet piece of silicone from a cheap silicone pot holder. Also did you have to pay $110 shipping per battery?
I live in Canada. Any chance you could recommend a BMS with same features but also able to accommodate heat pads. Appreciate the tiem and effort you put into your videos.
Lyndsay,Whats you battery details ,Maybe i can offer help
@@GoGadgetsLife SOK 100Ah 12V LiFePO4. I bought them 3-months before the same battery with the option of heater pads became available.
@@lyndsaybeck2249 use an active balancer (aB) for your 100Ah cells. They have much more precisious performance then such types. You configure only the cutoff voltages (2,5Vmin / 3,65Vmax per cell) in your inverter.
The balancer manage the cells until 0,001V difference. An aB produce no heat and your system has no powerl loss!
negative: aB have no BT and Apps if you want present your cells your neighbour ....
How does the battery charge on negative? You leave the negative bms wires "hanging?". Huh, interesting. I would have thought you would be connecting loads directly to the battery but i guess if the bms has protections it hzs have to have the current go through it
That's correct. If you connect directly to battery negative, it would work of course but you would lose all of the protections of the BMS. Because this is a common port BMS, it means it charges and discharges from the same negative port. The protection schemes apply to both charging and discharging so you never want to connect anything directly to the raw negative battery post besides the BMS.
@@freelyroaming That makes sense now. Thanks a lot for making this video! It looks pretty straightforward to build this. That's a huge battery ! 4Kw of energy for only $700ish, wow
Thanks , very educational for beginners. Very good video compared to others out there. You stressed safety which is very important but safety glasses and at least sunglasses should be worn at all time working on battery like you did. No metal when welding or electrical work period.
Nice video, Im thinking about building one myself and took contact with the reseller you linked, so did you have any problem with them and Cassie Wang there said it would cost 560$ with shipping and all to Europe. So you think that this is a good price or should I wait?
Life is easy with those big cells
I’m very confused on how many AH are in each individual cell. Does each cell contain 280 Ah or is it the set of 4 that make 280Ah?
You always have to specify Ah along with the nominal voltage. Each cell is 3.2V at 280Ah which makes 896 Wh (3.2x280). When you connect 4 of these cells in series you will increase the voltage but the Ah rating stays the same. So the full pack will be 12.8V at 280Ah which makes 3584 Wh.
Watt hour is a much better way to describe battery capacity because it can be stated alone without any other specifications.
I started with these exact batteries, built a pack of 16 in series @ 48v, I'm now building my 4th pack with a combined 57,344wh pushing 2 6500k inverters, and everything works great.
Thanks for this video
Thanks Great Video Why was cell #1 red and a B flashing in the bluetooth display?
It is showing the balancing of the cells. Red signifies which cell has the highest voltage and is being resistively drained to a lower level.
Nice work! Why was BMS chosen for a maximum current of 120A? It's only 1.44 kW. Is this power enough? Your battery can give much more, at least 2 times. For example, 200A (power = 2.56 kW) or even 250 A (power = 3.2kW). What is the basis for choosing a BMS with a maximum current of 120A? Thanks for the answer!
Cost and application often determine BMS selection.
2 years later, We now have the Eco-Worthy 12.8 V with built in BMS for $480. Down to .133 cents per watt hour.
@@deanelliott169 that's a good deal. Where are you seeing that? Their normal price for a 280ah pack is still $899
There are a few things you should take care of, apart from not assembling the battery on a steel table. Don't use an adjustable wrench to tighten the nuts - it.s too easy to accidentally creating a short circuit. Use a socket wrench instead. Don't use scissors to cut tie-raps but use short snips (with insulated handles) for the same reason. Do not tie-rap all balancing wires together, if there is any damage on the insulation of the wires you may get fire or at least smoke. Do not tie-rap the C- and B- wires in one bundle - if they short circuit you are disabling the complete BMS.
Never ever use those large heavy cells wrapped in just packing tape. It's too easy to get a puncture in the wrapping or denting the cells. Also, follow the manufacturers specifications on how to mount these cells. I've seen manufacturers specifying that you must compress these cells to make sure they cannot bulge, resulting in de-lamination of the cell.
How do you think these are EVE cells? EVE is a brand with a well known reputation so anyone selling EVE cells will leave the EVE label on the battery or at least have their own label with "Manufactured by EVE" on it.
You should watch some more of my videos before making your critiques. I've got plenty of real world and technical experience building off grid electrical systems. 'Not my first rodeo' is the common expression .There is plenty of other videos showing how I've built packs that I actually use. As I stated pretty clearly in the video, this was not meant to be a 'best practices' build video. It is just to show how components go together which was something requested by subscribers. And for a non-mobile setup, there is zero risk of insulation rubbing, chafing and shorting. As a full time traveler who does a lot of DIY projects, we don't have the luxury of a workshop full of tools. Learning to do with what you have is a very useful skill. It is all about understanding and assessing the risks and make it work with what you have. I assume you just landed here from RUclips recommendations without knowing other already posted contents my channel. There is one all about cell compression as it sounds like you might learn a few things from it.
Hello, I've seen a few of your awesome videos and am now hoping to get some advice.
I'm new to the battery / car camping scene. I plan to keep an Amazon LiFePO4 battery (maybe 2) in my car as a power source for a Dometic fridge, lights, laptop, etc. so I can live in my car on the weekends. I'm still shopping / researching so I wonder if Group Type matters, mixing battery / inverter brands or things like that matter?
I want to charge the batteries at work then bring it to my car and shelf in the cabin with me.
So far it sounds like I'd need the battery, and an inverter. And I think I can just plug a power strip into the inverter?
Do you see any issues or have any advice for this type of use?
Great information will help me greatly deal I'm goin to make battery pack to charge on off peak electric @ night to use during day giving me 24hr off peak lectricity shud save a great deal with big rise in energy prices, think l need to aim for sbout 10kw to run bungalow in day! Don't think l should have any problem putting that together, I'm a retired electronics tech! Just hope l can get all stuff you got shipped here to U.K. very good presentation lot good information thanks so much saves me time on researching all this myself!🤗🤩😎🌹
Hi Dan, you spoke about balancing on the video at about 13m 53secs did you do a video on this after thanks in advance.
I’m going thru the Freely Roaming Series. A though came up. Where are the Bodwells. Do they have a RUclips Chanel.
No they don't do RUclips. We actually just spent a day with them last week. they have been living in Colorado while their son goes to high school. He was out here on California visiting college campuses.
Thanks for the tutorial and recommendations. Good to know.
I'd like to build a 36 volt 100 amp hour battery for my 36 volt ezgo golf cart. Any suggestions on components would be appreciated. Thank you, great videos !
I'd like to build a 36 volt for my EZGO golf cart. How many cells would I need to equal six 6 volt Trojan T-105's ? And, can it be done ? Great videos, enjoy watching......
3.27 volts on the tester per cell
I did this set up with just the 120 amp bms. I have a 40 amp. Rich charge controller and two 200 watt. Panels. Also 3000 watt pure sine inverter. I have been all over the app and can't get my cells to charge past 13.4. I put my Noco genius 10 on it with the bms hooked up and I only get 13.4 and only 3 out of 4 red bars on the charger no matter how long I wait. When I charge the cells without the bms hooked up, I get 14.4. Then, as soon as I hook the bms up it takes it down to 13.4. I have calculated about 50% capacity. Maybe less. The only thing I can think of is the bms needs to be a 250amp? Advice would be perfect. Maybe parameters I need to change? Thanks
This is a good take but with your connections how many hours does it last that's when your battery is fully charged to use at night
Just found this video and this channel.
GREAT JOB, thank you !!!!
Liked and subbed
Thanks!
I've ordered cells from Shenzhen Qishou (QSO) manufacture but I have concerns. Now that iIve found your video, how do these QSO cells perform, two years on? Are they worthy?
Thank you, I liked your video.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks! does Radio B Tech make a BMS with a heating pad output to heat cells when temp drops below 32F?
@@NMLongshot I would not recommend having the bms do that. It's better to have a standalone heating pad with it's own temperature sensor.
well, some BMS units from JK integrate both functions into the BMS. There is a ~3A output from the JK BMS which turns on and diverts charging energy from the cells into a heating pad (or into a relay if your pad needs more than 3A). I'm ok using the existing BMS temp sensors rather than doubling them up and introducing independent controls. I was hoping that RadioB had a similar solution.
Why not insulate behind the bms? maybe install it on a wood half inch block? or even some sort of a heat synk
There are a lot of things you can do. See my other build videos for those. This is meant to be the easiest way to put a pack together.
What about using coroplast corrugated plastic signs as your dividers for battery and bms that way they can get some air between them
The only problem is if you use something too thick the bus bars will probably not reach the studs.
That was great. I'm just starting to think about building a battery system. So the two temperature wire r for low & high temperature, right?
Do u hv a video about discharging & charging the battery b4 u build the battery pack? I need to know what type of equipment is used to do that?
The most common charger is often a 30V 10A bench power supply that goes for $75 on Amazon. You could probably get a higher amperage charger for ONE specific voltage but that gives you no flexibility so I would really recommend getting a bench power supply. If you can afford something that can do 20A then I would recommend it just to save yourself some time.
Discharging…first ask yourself, do you want to capacity test? For $50 you can get a DL24 load tester but it’s limited to discharging at a max of 150W or 20A. If you don’t want to capacity test then you could hook up a super basic DC load (bulb) or get some bigger power resistors and use ohms law to calculate a load small enough that won’t melt some 100W resistors but big enough that it won’t take centuries to drain it. You need a low voltage disconnect module
@@bobforte9343Wow thank u for all that info. I'll do some more research about all that u noted. I'm a visual person so reading the info I don't get yet. But I truly hope ur explanations. 👍🏾😊
So the 3 black wires will go to trolling motor ground and than run trolling motor red wire to battery?
Hi: Thanks for this video. Can this cell pack and BMS times 3 power my golf cart, or is there to much inrush current for this BMS. No doubt the batteries can do the job, but how about the BMS.? Thanks. Bob
Correct me if I'm wrong but last time I checked, red was positive and black was negative. You appeared to have connected the blue bms negative leads to the positive terminal on the battery pack. Just an observation
@@wg6215 he connected it in series to achieve a higher voltage which is good to power high voltage devices/appliances and the ah remains same but if connected in parallel the voltage remains same but the ah increase which makes not be able to power high voltage devices
/Appliances
Nice vid !
Can you do a video on the Bluetooth connection. I am concern there are complication or it gets tricky to connect to it.
Do you have another BMS you recommend? The one you mentioned is no longer available on amazon.
This is their latest option
amzn.to/3RZef9B
@@freelyroaming Thank you!
I know a lot of these bms have Bluetooth, I’m thinking wifi connection for remote monitoring and data logging is highly desirable.
Are there other bms with wifi connection or a Bluetooth - wifi bridge to log the data??
Thank you, I am now convinced that I am going to do this, very much appreciated 👍👍👍
Very well.i have one question :i have 4 cells of this kind batery :12v/320A .the BMS must be 320A or less?i do not understand.can i use bms 150A?thank you
What torque did you use on the terminal nuts? Perhaps I just missed it.
Didn't specify a torque spec. I am using a lock washer instead of the serrated flange nuts. I just get it down to snug and give it another 8th turn. Usually enough to hold.
i got an aliexpress 150Amp clone of that bms and a BT module for i think under $80 USD shipped, if not around $75, that was a year or two ago
Is there a reason you use three lugs on the BMS negative lead and bunch them all together on one stud, instead of crimping all three into one larger lug?
It seems to me (ignorant) that it would eliminate a bit of the 'spider' and not have a huge stack of lugs on the battery stud?
Small wires crimped into large lugs have a tendency to slip out. Also it complicates the build as it requires you to undo the already-crimped sensing wires without adding much of a benefit as you will still have bundles of wires to manage.
@@freelyroaming Thanks for the reply! You really break it down for your audience.
I'm unsure what the three thick current passing wires have to do with the thin sensing wires? 🤔
But I do see why they are using three silicone insulated wires to make the connection to the board more compliant.
Great tutorial! Happy Trails
@@jimurrata6785 ah yes I see what you mean. The 3 wires from the BMS. It's just how the manufacturer have chosen to build them. 3 thinner, more flexible wires instead of 1 thicker one. Using 3 lugs also give you a bit more flexibility during the build process but a single large one could have worked but it would be slightly more restricting with regard to their angles of attachment.
200ah 12v lifep04 from redodo are 459. shipped and i even got a 30.00 amazon coupon so it was 429.00 kinda hard to beat, i am running a pair of them in series with my 3kw powmr all in one inverter for my camper.
200Ah Redodo doesn't have low temp cut off. For $469 you could have gotten a Golden Mate 200Ah that does like this diy kit. Running 2 of them takes up 3 times the space for someone with a smaller camper.
@@freelyroaming I had already watched a review on the redodo 200ah .. and understood that it had only a high temp cutoff. i am running a 18w warmer with auto thermostat it will cut on at 50'f and cutoff at 70'f (made for a chicken coop) since i am setting up inside a externally accessible storage area .. it looks to be the ideal answer to keep the batteries warm.
Very informative video. You mentioned at the begin about showing a 3rd temp sensor, was it mentioned or did I miss it?
How many of those bats would be needed to run an RV 15,000 btu AC? So one said I’d need 7 or 8 400 watt panels on the roof.I think I can mount 7 on my roof but not 8.
Experiencing pain, seeing a bright yellowish-white flash of light and smelling my burned skin helps remind me to wear gloves from now on. 13V is enough to travel through a slightly sweaty skin surface. God saved me again. Aloe Vera gel is the best of God's creation to cure burns.
Seriously? You can literally grab both terminals with your bare hands and nothing will happen.
With the BMS you used can you program the max charging amps? I am building one for my van and wanted to know if I can program the BMS to a max 40 AMP charge. I could use a DC/DC charger if needed but would be nice if I could do it without the DC/DC charger.
You can't exceed the hardware limits of the BMS so usually it is not programmable
Great info.Thanks
Hey I'm about to try this build... do you still recommend or do you have any updates on the gear? Thanks!
Yes, This is still how I would put a pack together.
@@freelyroaming Thanks! :)
@@freelyroaming could these be run in series to hit 72 volt?
So you have to use a special charger on this battery or can I treat it like a lead acid battery in my camper and just let the solar and Jeep charge it as if it was a standard house battery and the BMS does all the magic? I keep seeing people specify special lifepo4 chargers that pretty much defeat the purpose of these.
You need a charger that is compatible with lifepo4. Good quality modern chargers like victrons will have lifepo4 profiles in their settings. Not sure what you mean by defeating the purpose of them as the purpose is lighter weight and longer lifespan than lead acid among many others. Having to use a compatible charger is not really a big deal. BMS does not handle any charging duties. It is just there to protect the battery from damage.
@@freelyroaming it means the tow vehicle can not charge the battery as its designed to output 14.5V and not a computerized charging system to carefully balance charge LifePO4 batteries. I guess I assumed the BMS added to the batteries did all that but it seems you still need a special charger even if you have a BMS installed. How do the premade battery companies sell them claiming you dont need a special charger?
Since you're connecting 4S in series, why does it come out 12V and not 48V?
Each cell is 3.2v.
Very nice 👍
Helped me allot
I hooked my daly sensing wires to the positive terminals is this a different set up or does it not matter ?
I found some 320a cells. I will be building a battery very soon. What amperage to you recommend for the bms? Is a 200a bms to much?
No it's not too much. It is all based on how much max current you plan on drawing from it.
im building a pack myself for workdue to supply issue what does the 120amp rating on the bms stand for is that the most amps it can handle? if so how would i go about making a pack that can handle 800amps. this is for a mobile hydraulic stage
You can connect multiple BMSs in parallel.
I'd like to build a 36 Volt package for a ezgo golf cart.
Can I use smaller BMS than cell nominal AH?
For example, I got a 4x280Ah cell and use only 120Ah BMS? Is that secure? Can I use an even smaller 60Ah BMS?
Yes. It doesn't need to match. Just don't go too much over the rated output current which is usually 1C. That would be 280A in this pack.
Could all the tape cause the batteries (cells) to not dissipate heat well enough? This was very enjoyable to watch and makes me want to make one (or more).
Perhaps. But so would an enclosure. For off-grid power, the c rate is very low so batteries don't heat up that much. It would actually be a benefit in cold temps. Like I said, there are lots of ways to build a battery. this is just a good and fast way to build one in about 10 minutes for a RUclips video.
@freelyroaming did you have any problem with the cellar supplier?
I am using a couple of those JBD bms's from radio tech. They haven't givin me one issue in yrs but the app can be frustrating
That's good to hear. The app is very powerful but not intuitive. I'm testing to make sure the data is accurate and reliable and the will take time
Cut the wires, the BMS has next to no current when measuring so therefore no voltage droop. Also when top balancing no need to wait when first connected but when charging leave at 3.65 for a few hours.
I've explained this in several comments exactly like yours. You'd understand if you are someone who makes videos like these
Can I use just 1 of these batteries? Or do you have to use 4 together?
@@trillian8 to make a 12.8v pack you'll need 4 cells.
@@freelyroaming thank you.
Thanks for a nice tutorial, what is the advantage of this battery over a 12V 680Amp 110Ah lead acid battery costing $200, is the lead acid battery working out cheaper per Ah at that rate?
well 110ah lead acid, compared to 280 lifepo4/for one thing. So basically you need 3 so there's $600
His LifePo4 battery can be run to near EMPTY, do that to a lead acid a dozen times it will be scrap. Lead acid shouldn't be discharged more than 50%-60%... if you expect any kind of longevity. So NOW you really only have a 50ah battery. NOW you need nearly 6.
Hows the math going ? 6x$200? which would you prefer?
And it will be about 4x the weight. Which comes to around 200 lbs worth of lead acid. For an equivalent LiFePO4 pack comes in at closer to 50 lbs.
Ok thanks for the clarification 👍
Cos you can only use 55ah of it without damaging it
Ok but now the real question is how do I build the individual cells from raw materials?
Can i solar trickle charge a LI battery,the type used on a power tool.
Hey Dan, do you have a video that shows what parameters to use on the mppt for our diy batteries? Or did you get them from the supplier?
If you use a victron charger then you can just use their built in lithium charging profile. In one of my older videos of the battery build I did show it. I can make a quick video to show parameters.
@@freelyroaming awesome thanks! I think a quick video would help a lot of us. 🙏
You where touching all reds in one hand at the last steps of add. bms. Is that advisable?
Are you talking about 19:25? If so, it's not a problem. All 3 of those wires are combined into the main negative of the pack. There are just split into 3 conductors to be more flexible while still able to carry a full 120A load.
Will this battery handle starting a regular V8 automobile engine?
@@davelowets no. Lifepo4 packs are not good for starting batteries.
If you don't want large Ah , lead asic is still good enough for you compare to cost and lifespans of it.
Have you tested cold temp disconnect is working on this bms?
I don't know if it was ask can you use these for car audio