BASIC AUTOMOTIVE ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS PART 1
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- Опубликовано: 14 дек 2020
- Finally!! Had time to make the automotive how to video for basic electrical skills - AKA Rustbelt’s crash course on 12v electrical
Check out the extended cut on SP Tools USA YT page:
/ @sptoolsusa
On SP Tools page, Use code RUSTBELT at checkout for 10% off - www.sptoolsusa.com
Email me at therustbeltmechanic@gmail.com 
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I find it easier to think of Ohm's law as a river: The voltage is the water, the resistance are all the rocks and boulders in the river and the amperage is how fast that river is flowing.
Bruh that’s a really good way to look at it, I struggled in fundamentals at UTI cause I hated electricals but I regret hating it now.
I think voltage is the strength of the flow and amps is the amount of water
I like to picture Jesus like a mischievous badger or wearing a tuxedo tea shirt.
Voltage is the speed of the river's flow. Amperage is the breadth of the river, i.e. volume of water moving.
Pipes.. flow rate is current.. resistance is diameter of the pipes.. and force of motor pushing the water is voltage
Dude, this is great. This is what RUclips is about!
As somebody who studied electricity in some detail as a physics student, I must say that this explanation is excellent. Clear, properly paced and sequenced, and everything explained through a single good analogy. Great work!
ive watched and read many o forums and videos on these basics and you are the first one to make it make complete sense, thank you
Hey man I’m a student at UTI and want to brush up on diag skills, do you think you could post a vid or 2 of a real world car with a real world problem and show the diag procedure start to finish? What they teach in school vs real world are 2 different planets
16:22 I believe you meant to say .13 Amps instead of .13 Ohms. Nevertheless, this video is more informative than an entire semester of college. Great job!
Nah youright tho.
That’s what i said to myself
AMPS!
I want to thank you so much for making this video and making it more understandable and comprehendable. I've worked in the Automotive repair field for all of my life but automotive electrical has always been one of my weakness and now after this video I believe I have a much better understanding of the electrical system
I needed this thank you so much!! AWESOME JOB😎 !!!
What do you call KNOWLEDGEABLE and SUBSTANTIAL the answer is
Rustbelt Mechanic
I just ❤️ when you do electrical diagnosis. Thank you again tutorial 👍 👌 👍 👍 Take care and have a great day
Rustbelt Mechanic
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Your a great teacher, I'm glad I found your blog....Kuto's to you sir and thank you for taking the time to teach
Thank you for putting this out
The best video I have watched about auto electronics Thank you you’re great instructor
Thanks for the video, you are great!
Really well explained, thank you
Thank you so much sir.very clearly and knowledgeable your tutorial.
Great video . Thanks
Thanks for the video
You did a very good job
Thank you love the content
Clear!!! Nice Thank you
Thanks for the video very helpful
Bros you are the greatest teacher.
Good Afternoon Rustbelt Mechanic take care and have a great day 👍
Great tutorial thank you 👍
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Bro.... Thanks man new sub for sure
Great video. My teacher taught me this way 👍
Great, great video. The most important part of diagnostics. I'm a shadetree mechanic and I see this as teh most important part of automotive work.
You're a badass bro! Thank you so much!
Nice1..Rust & thank u
Great video
Nice and thank you
Am new starter it was very usefull thanks much!
Thanks good Video .
Good video overall with a technical error measuring amperage and very important concept many new techs wont understand.
I recall SAS; where Series circuit Amperage remains the Same throughout which is what you are representing on the breadboard trainer. Regardless where you measure your electrical flow it will ALWAYS read 0.13amps.
Ohms Law states V=IR and R = V/I therefore; R = 12v/0.13A or 92ohms across both resisters since it is in Series they add together as a single resistance. By deduction, if the 1st resister (V1) is 39 ohms then the light bulb (Vb) is 53 ohms.
With these known you can calculate the voltage drop across each resistance as V1 = 39 ohms * 0.13A = 5.07Vd1 & Vb = 53 ohms * 0.13A = 6.89Vdb. Now to confirm series circuit voltage drop across each resistor is equal to source voltage so V = Vd1 + Vdb = 5.07 + 6.89 = 12V.
That is why your meter was reading close to 7 Volts when measuring across the bulb once the 40 ohm resister was placed into circuit.
Thank you.
very nice explanation
Very good
The guy makes it look so easy! Wanna come fix this PTO control module on a Silverado 😂 the thing is fucked I started chasing the wires and still nothing sticks out 😭 so frustrating hate electrical 😤
Thank you... this is a great description to help figure out dc current
DIY automotive electrical testing tools you can build yourself and save:
ruclips.net/video/wkUGeFYLgoo/видео.html
thank you thank you thank you
Pls more video like this
que buena explicacion de los voltages
Hi , I have Yaris 2004 MMT car, I face a problem on dashboard (speed gage, fuel gage) are stop working (VNKKV18310A341651) and we tried to fix it but we can't make it, so we need your assistants
My Honda Accord 2015 Sport, you know why the phrase CHECK CHARGING SYSTEM with the figure of the Check Engine appears every so often, despite having new alternator and battery? I will thank you for explaining to me what problem is happening to the car, thank you very much for your answers...
Hi there. I own a Vw Polo Gt Tdi 1.6, my car has been throwing a 00538 reference Voltage-Open Circuit error in Central Electronics and even the air conditioner has been getting cut off randomly. I had sent the car to VW workshop to fix the said code and they checked the Climatronic, BCM, Reference Voltage Fuse and wiring and they all were fine, but still the fault code reader was flashing 00538 error, after which the master technician hooked a battery charger to the battery and erased the code and it didn't appear again, which it used to after turning the ignition off and then on. The Technician said that it is a bad alternator, but then the battery voltage is at 12.8 when the car is off and when the car is turned on without A/c. it shows 13.9-14 and when the A/c is turned on it shows 13.78. There's no issue with starting the car, no battery icon on instrument cluster, nothing, but the fault code won't go.
12v/.13a is 92.3 ohms. You still have the light bulb in there causing the extra resistance in your circuit.
There’s a winner!! Good catch on that one👍🏻👍🏻 We had an internal bet to see who would catch that first. Contact me over on IG for a free Rustbelt shirt or sticker
Was thinking the same thing
So if you have a bulb that doesn’t light up and still have 12v AFTER the socket like you mentioned somewhere around 13mins or so then you wouldn’t have a faulty bulb or socket (or that isn’t the ONLY issue anyhow, but still somehow have continuity) but instead you would have an open AFTER where you tested, or have a very high resistance after the bulb that is consuming most of the voltage.
Cheers.
Watching this because I just ordered some power probe stuff and my cars has multiple electrical issues lol
Nice Job on the video!!!
Something that I noted...
When you are are measuring current in the video, at timestamp 16:24 you stated .13 ohms when you intended to say .13 amps.
Could be confusing or misleading to someone with less experience.
Thanks
Good call👍🏻
Tried looking on the site you mentioned but couldn’t find anything other than the same three parts
Good video. But you've stated a couple things incorrectly. When you did the amp test, you said it had 0.13 ohms of resistance. You were measuring amp draw. It had 0.13 amp draw. Not ohms.
Does a car will run all its electrical accessories without the computer board?
where is this board located in?
Number 500 nice clip 👍👌
Why did you measure ohms on the amp setting?
Hi from Brazil
I need some Electric to put fuse box on my 1970 Monte Carlo any body in Modedto california
How do I check the integrity of the multimeter, and can you point us to a good one, please
Fluke is pretty much top of the line for the industry. I love mine, but I used a cheap Craftsman DMM for a few years when I first started. I only bought the fluke for EV stuff lol.
Im not good at maths but it shouldnt be a problem we got the computers to do that for us now going through 2022 and beyond.
Thanks for the video I'm new to mechanics and I love to learn this stuff oh and by the way I'm 14
Learn it elsewhere! Find somebody who actually knows the science and how a circuit works!
J Gaming - I was a gearhead at 14 too. I could build a pretty mean small block Chevy by 16. If you go into the industry invest in education. I highly recommend a state-supported trade school like an A.A.S. in Auto Technology. If you are even thinking about a private for-profit school reach out to me first, we need to talk. If you have any questions about the industry reach out I will be glad to help.
@@GearheadSchool I would have to get a way to contact you and we will have to talk about a lot of things.
@@AutismYIPPEE The best way is to go to my website gearhead.school - On the site, there are all kinds of resources and ways to reach me, including my personal cell number. I left the NC Community College to focus on helping gearheads like yourself enter into the industry.
Sir can i get a job in USA from india as a auto electrical
how much is the meter first 20amp i have seen
I believe $200 over at SP Tools USA, code Rustbelt gets you 10% off still
Yep, most meters are 10A, but the fact that you must open up the circuit and put the meter in series with the circuit is getting harder and harder to do. In my opinion, a better option is to go with an amp clamp which can typically measure up to 60A. They even make a large capacity clamp for starter current.
Also, keep in mind many amp clamps come with a BNC connector to use with a tool like a Pico Scope, but you can find them with banana plugs (for a handheld meter). You can also find BNC to banana plug adapters.
Watch “Ratty Muscle” for great videos on automotive electricity. Diagrams and all! Hands down best channel for such content.
He related ohms law to gravity.. so in essence... Ohms law/ the apple will ALWAYS fall from the tree. Voltage being how fat the apple is, amperage being how fast the apple falls, and resistance being did the apple hit a branch on the way down? Am I getting this? Lol
7volts / 40 Ohms= .175 amps is where I think the calculation was at.
At 16:29 you meant .13 Amps.....not ohms
Great video but I think you need a different analogy for ohms law. Numerous times you mixed your own words up when referencing back to your analogy which just confuses new learners.
Rust belt = Salt of the Earth Europeans .
It actually stand for open line lol
Well…. Per Fluke it means open loop but in their training manuals is refers to it as “infinite resistance” but it’s hard to make lower end LCD number displays say IR
At 11 minutes, Kyle is measuring 10.1v on the ground side of the bulb. Since he measured 12v on the positive side this should mean the bulb has approx 2v applied to it. The bulb looks awful bright for 2v. Why? I know the answer. Does anybody else know why?
Nope. If it is a circuit that "breaks off after the bulb" that would put it in series with the bulb. Loads are not typically wired in series and I don't remember any mention of a fuel pump. So my original question stands, why is the bulb operating as though it is receiving 12v and not 2v as mentioned in the video.
@R230Tuner I am not sure where you are seeing all this. When he checked on the voltage on the ground side of the bulb, that wire goes to the ground in the top left corner. So, the question still stands, where does the 10.1v come from?
@R230Tuner OK. I was anticipating more replies but I'll put an end to this.
This is a simple series circuit with one load. All the source voltage (12v) is applied to the bulb. Look close at the meter reading on the ground side of the bulb at 13 minutes. It is not 10.1v, it is 10.1mv (millivolts) or .010v If you look close you can see a small "m" on the screen.
i cought that right away and jumped to the comments to make sure im not wrong thans for pointing it out as these mess me up so much when learning
out of curiosity, do you understand what electricity really is? you have one atom of copper with excessive electrons and another copper atom with the regular amount of electrons or has an empty outer shell, and the electromagnetic field causes the electrons from the copper atom with excessive electrons to move to the one with a normal amount or no electrons in the outer shell. that's what electricity really is. i had to learn the hard way because the water analogy was insufficient. i feel like until you understand that, you will never be able to truly figure out or understand electronic problems
Remember, this is Basic Electricity 101 (however, major fail on the part of the "teacher" with the examples: What kind of calculator are you using that shows 12/.13=40?!!!).The more you learn about electricity/electronics the less the 'water flow" analogy makes sense. I remember when I first learned electricity being taught the "water flow" analogy. I think it simplifies things down so much it helps a novice to understand the concepts. now that I'm not a novice, I dislike the analogy; wish there was a better one.
I like Bernie's Breakdown. Though a little long as he goes into IC chips, drivers, etc, etc.... A little to much for me.
You can have 12 amps all day long whether on 1 strand of 100 copper wires or 100 strands.
When you apply the Amperage you'll see what kind of amperage you have as well though. This made it easier for me to understand.
www.vehicleservicepros.com/service-repair/battery-and-electrical/article/21208044/modern-automotive-electronics
Why cant you just test whats wrong and fix the problem without all the electrical theory stuff 90% of tecs are not good at electrical work because they got confused by all the 100s of different ways and explanations its just to much it takes many many years to learn this a breif explanation and testing is good enough not a 100 different ways and wasted time on theory just read wiring diagrams and do tests and make repair and verify the problem is fixed thats why most techs suck because they are confused amd wont admit it all this stuff is overkill and will make 90% of techs bad thats why most shops cant fix electrical prolbum right bad training and overkill with causes confussion and fustration you are a very good tech but people dont want to spend years learning all this stuff they dont really need to know just test it and fix it forget the rest
That doesn’t make any sense, he said voltage =amps x resistance but when he added resistance he lost voltage
While I do understand what your saying,
I found your teaching mind numbing.
Complicated.
Boring.
My apologies.
Just me.
I do thank you for your efforts, I'm sure you have helped some one.
Btw, I have a Blue oval cert in electric.
Your such a bad Teacher you where trying to find A = V/R you said 30 Volts divide by 10 Resists = 3 gpm or flow or Amps it should have been 30 Volts divided by 3 resists = 10 amps ( flow or Amps )
Content 100% Boring. You bring nothing the average person can’t find it has already seen. You are explaining automotive electricity verbatim to others videos. If you plan on talking about a topic. Try being creative and reexplain the topic so that if water was not something someone understood your method would clear as day for them. Light is light. But not everyone understand the topic let alone when time and time again it’s explained exactly the same. This is redundant