Absolutely great video, super detailed and 100 percent correct. Saved me over 1000 USD ...Mercedes dealership in New Jersey quoted me a price of 1465 USD...Keep making your videos my man!!!
Stephen - so glad you found it useful and thank you for the fantastic feedback. Tell your friends to subscribe (hopefully you have?) 😂😂 so we can spread the word 👍👍
Thank you, very glad you found it helpful. Will likely be a new video in about 3 months as I will need to do the disks soon, so will be able to show the wear sensor this time 👍
@@mercedes_and_more Your welcome and Thanks keep up the good work! I didn't find not showing the wear sensor an issue really you explained it well enough. Ignore the critical people on hear. I'm in the process of trying to locate a lose ECU wire focus on that In your next video please 🤣
@@samroda3745 touch wood not a problem i have. Did you knows that Haynes Manuals do an on line manual for the car with full wiring diagrams? Could be of use for you?
I think you can use a conventional socket on the nut but I don’t know the size as i (as you can see) used the Torx drive and I can’t comment about access. Good luck though 👍
@@mercedes_and_more Nope. Without a lift, you're pretty much just attempting blindly to shove the pads into those slots with enough pressure. I opted to take the bracket back off, following your advice. Thanks
Also, what’s the need for manually retracting the caliper pistons if the car does it electronically? And do you happen to know the torq specs for the caliper bolts
Possibly because i have the right tool, but looking back at the footage, yes you could use a socket on the outside but i suspect you might round it off? Torque setting is 90nm for the carrier and 60nm for the caliper
Because the part you call the bolt ut. Is a flange for the factory torque during assembly...You use the torx bit. To service the brakes after that... As that flange is very thin...
Thank you very helpful and clear, but can I ask something? I previously did my front pads but the most difficult part was getting the old ones off because of the adhesive 3M pad on them. I didn’t notice that on your rear set, do they all have them or is it just the front? Maybe you don’t have to unpeel the sticky bit? I’m due to do rears now and wondering whether to attempt it myself.
Thanks for your positive comments John. All i can say is that on my car (AMG Line) that there is some 3M tape on the front pads (fixed caliper) but not on the rear. I suspect that if you had a floating caliper front brake set up (non AMG or AMG Line car) then there would be no 3M on the front pads either.
@@mercedes_and_more Thanks! Do you think it is worth to use also some grease where the caliper pistons meet the pads? I think I have seen some guys doing that.
This was the first time i had done this job and didn't know that the wear sensor was only on one side. If the car has been parked the other way then it would have got filmed as the other side was in shadow.
Well its not that hard figure out. As the Front and rear sensor are on the passenger side. And once that sensor tells you check the brakes. It means the Sensor has to be replaced as well. As it grinds through the plastic casing. That grounds the wires to each other. You're never going to reuse that sensor again. It will break the wires> trying to pull it out. So pay the $12.00 US for a new one. And I only use MB pads and Sensors on my customers MB..They last 50K miles... It only cost them an extra $40.00 for the MB Factory parts.
@@WizzRacing are you criticising that i couldn't work it out? For your info i noticed it was worn before the sensor wore out (when i was swapping summer to winter tyres) so actually it was perfectly ok to re-use. I didn't pay attention that there was only one sensor as most cars have two. Sorry we can't all be perfect
@@mercedes_and_more The reply was for the person that asked why not show the sensor..It only goes on one way. And they are a one time use only Sensor..Just remove the connector. Toss the sensor and pad away. As that sensor is not coming out in one piece. Install new sensor in the inner pad. As it only has one direction\groove to align the sensor onto.. If you buy the MB service pads. It even shows you how they go back on.
Absolutely great video, super detailed and 100 percent correct. Saved me over 1000 USD ...Mercedes dealership in New Jersey quoted me a price of 1465 USD...Keep making your videos my man!!!
Stephen - so glad you found it useful and thank you for the fantastic feedback. Tell your friends to subscribe (hopefully you have?) 😂😂 so we can spread the word 👍👍
Very well presented clear straight to the point and very helpful 👍
Thank you, very glad you found it helpful. Will likely be a new video in about 3 months as I will need to do the disks soon, so will be able to show the wear sensor this time 👍
@@mercedes_and_more Your welcome and Thanks keep up the good work! I didn't find not showing the wear sensor an issue really you explained it well enough. Ignore the critical people on hear. I'm in the process of trying to locate a lose ECU wire focus on that In your next video please 🤣
@@samroda3745 touch wood not a problem i have. Did you knows that Haynes Manuals do an on line manual for the car with full wiring diagrams? Could be of use for you?
@@mercedes_and_more Thanks I wasn't aware will have to have a look at that. I think its just loose wires on the connector to the Ecu 🤞🤣 👍
Really helpful, thank you very much 😀
Thanks for your positive feedback 👍
Is the star socket really necessary? I am going to change my pads but don’t have that particular socket.
I think you can use a conventional socket on the nut but I don’t know the size as i (as you can see) used the Torx drive and I can’t comment about access. Good luck though 👍
I had to do the same trick regarding inserting the inner brake pad on the caliper bracket prior to reinstalling it
Glad it wasn’t just me then!
@@mercedes_and_more Nope. Without a lift, you're pretty much just attempting blindly to shove the pads into those slots with enough pressure. I opted to take the bracket back off, following your advice. Thanks
What’s the reason for using the torx bit on the caliper bolts instead of a socket?
Also, what’s the need for manually retracting the caliper pistons if the car does it electronically? And do you happen to know the torq specs for the caliper bolts
Possibly because i have the right tool, but looking back at the footage, yes you could use a socket on the outside but i suspect you might round it off? Torque setting is 90nm for the carrier and 60nm for the caliper
@@mercedes_and_more got it. Thank you so much
Because the part you call the bolt
ut. Is a flange for the factory torque during assembly...You use the torx bit. To service the brakes after that... As that flange is very thin...
Thank you very helpful and clear, but can I ask something? I previously did my front pads but the most difficult part was getting the old ones off because of the adhesive 3M pad on them. I didn’t notice that on your rear set, do they all have them or is it just the front? Maybe you don’t have to unpeel the sticky bit? I’m due to do rears now and wondering whether to attempt it myself.
Thanks for your positive comments John. All i can say is that on my car (AMG Line) that there is some 3M tape on the front pads (fixed caliper) but not on the rear. I suspect that if you had a floating caliper front brake set up (non AMG or AMG Line car) then there would be no 3M on the front pads either.
@@mercedes_and_more thank you so much for the quick response. I’m a subscriber now.
Hi, thanks for the video. What are the torque specs for the caliper bracket and the caliper itself?
Caliper bracket and guide pins are both 60Nm
@@mercedes_and_more Thanks! Do you think it is worth to use also some grease where the caliper pistons meet the pads? I think I have seen some guys doing that.
@@jozefkubasky8712 personally i haven’t, just a touch of copper thread grease where the pads “slide” over the caliper (as per the video).
You shuld aware ppl that in some case pads will become noisy.They start flapping .
Ok, but personally i do not have any experience of this.
Why didn't you show sensor part while fixing it.. Could have help so many
This was the first time i had done this job and didn't know that the wear sensor was only on one side. If the car has been parked the other way then it would have got filmed as the other side was in shadow.
Well its not that hard figure out. As the Front and rear sensor are on the passenger side. And once that sensor tells you check the brakes. It means the Sensor has to be replaced as well. As it grinds through the plastic casing. That grounds the wires to each other. You're never going to reuse that sensor again. It will break the wires> trying to pull it out. So pay the $12.00 US for a new one.
And I only use MB pads and Sensors on my customers MB..They last 50K miles... It only cost them an extra $40.00 for the MB Factory parts.
@@WizzRacing are you criticising that i couldn't work it out? For your info i noticed it was worn before the sensor wore out (when i was swapping summer to winter tyres) so actually it was perfectly ok to re-use. I didn't pay attention that there was only one sensor as most cars have two. Sorry we can't all be perfect
@@mercedes_and_more The reply was for the person that asked why not show the sensor..It only goes on one way.
And they are a one time use only Sensor..Just remove the connector. Toss the sensor and pad away. As that sensor is not coming out in one piece. Install new sensor in the inner pad. As it only has one direction\groove to align the sensor onto..
If you buy the MB service pads. It even shows you how they go back on.
@@WizzRacing couldn't agree more. I use Trw aftermarket (although they are OEM) and yes it has the instructions on the box