Nice job. You're right, there's not a lot of content on these cars because they're mostly owned by older people who don't use RUclips and simply because there was not a lot sold in North America. I'm surprised you replaced that water pump at 24,000 miles since they don't have an age related replacement recommendation. They can probably go 200k miles.
I got a bit of a laugh out of the "older" comment. I might fall into that category these days as well. ;-) I did the water pump since I was in there but I did keep the core just in case. I've seen a couple with ~90k miles that were starting to weep. I can't imagine running one for 200k... or at least I've never seen it. Thanks for the comment, cheers!
Another excellent video thank you! Just wondering is there a specific product you like to preserve the axle and steering rack boots? Also an episode on sensors would be much appreciated!
Revisiting this again thanks again for doing such a handy reference guide. What are your thoughts on getting the Super Damper crank pulley and billet adjustable cam gear from EFI express if one is already going to be in there doing this? Cheers
It's like we're on the same preventative maintenance schedule. I know I've already asked for help multiple times but would you happen to know where to find the crank pulley bolt for the AAN? I've tried fcp, 034, ecs, efi, and even places like advanced or rock auto and can't find them.
Unfortunately the stock bolt is now NLA as well. There is a BMW bolt (BMW M18x1.5 65mm) that apparently can be used in place of the NLA bolt from VW/Audi: www.autohausaz.com/pn/BM-11231736585
When you usually do a timing belt and you replace the cam seal, do you do it after the new belt is on and in time or do you tackle it before fully digging in to the rest of the job. Just curious as I need to do my Timing belt and cam and crank seals
Honestly, when it comes to the camshaft seals I usually just inspect them for any signs of leaking. I rarely see leaks from them on these cars but I do tend to replace them every other timing belt service just for good measure. It's actually not horrible to replace them after the fact if you're reasonably confident working on cars. It would be the same as doing the cam sensor so you'd zip tie the timing belt to the cam sprocket in a few places, make a few reference marks and then release tension on the belt to remove the sprocket. If you have any signs of leaks or no record of them being replaced do them. I'd get your timing belt into position with the locking tool then zip tie the belt to the cam sprocket and do the cam seals first.
ur doing the lords work
Nice job. You're right, there's not a lot of content on these cars because they're mostly owned by older people who don't use RUclips and simply because there was not a lot sold in North America.
I'm surprised you replaced that water pump at 24,000 miles since they don't have an age related replacement recommendation. They can probably go 200k miles.
I got a bit of a laugh out of the "older" comment. I might fall into that category these days as well. ;-)
I did the water pump since I was in there but I did keep the core just in case. I've seen a couple with ~90k miles that were starting to weep. I can't imagine running one for 200k... or at least I've never seen it.
Thanks for the comment, cheers!
Another excellent video thank you! Just wondering is there a specific product you like to preserve the axle and steering rack boots? Also an episode on sensors would be much appreciated!
Historically I had been using Vinylex but it is NLA so I've been using CQuartz Perl for the vinyl and rubber bits.
Revisiting this again thanks again for doing such a handy reference guide. What are your thoughts on getting the Super Damper crank pulley and billet adjustable cam gear from EFI express if one is already going to be in there doing this? Cheers
It's like we're on the same preventative maintenance schedule. I know I've already asked for help multiple times but would you happen to know where to find the crank pulley bolt for the AAN? I've tried fcp, 034, ecs, efi, and even places like advanced or rock auto and can't find them.
Unfortunately the stock bolt is now NLA as well. There is a BMW bolt (BMW M18x1.5 65mm) that apparently can be used in place of the NLA bolt from VW/Audi: www.autohausaz.com/pn/BM-11231736585
@@SCARSORGofficial thank you!
When you usually do a timing belt and you replace the cam seal, do you do it after the new belt is on and in time or do you tackle it before fully digging in to the rest of the job. Just curious as I need to do my Timing belt and cam and crank seals
Honestly, when it comes to the camshaft seals I usually just inspect them for any signs of leaking. I rarely see leaks from them on these cars but I do tend to replace them every other timing belt service just for good measure. It's actually not horrible to replace them after the fact if you're reasonably confident working on cars. It would be the same as doing the cam sensor so you'd zip tie the timing belt to the cam sprocket in a few places, make a few reference marks and then release tension on the belt to remove the sprocket.
If you have any signs of leaks or no record of them being replaced do them. I'd get your timing belt into position with the locking tool then zip tie the belt to the cam sprocket and do the cam seals first.