Toyota/Lexus Valve Adjusting Tool Set Designed to allow for easy valve adjustment on most Toyotas overhead camshaft engines using spacer shims for valve adjustment In operation, the tip of the pliers pushed between the spacer shim and the camshaft as the pliers are squeezed close This action then moves the shim and its valve lifter down away from the camshaft lobe In this down position the separate wedge tool is placed between the valve lifter ledge and the camshaft This wedkge tool then maintains a gap between the shim and the camshaft as the pliers are removed The spacer shim can then be removed through this gap and replaced with one of the correct thickness
@@Odysseus38 as in the video, you need to have the cam lobe pointing away from the lifter/shim bucket when you take the measurement or replace the shim. Rotate the cam as necessary for each cam lobe.
Ok so I have this tool, my 3VZE motor is together & running. Why not put a 1/2 drive socket & ratchet & cheater bar on the front lower crank pulley bolt to turn the motor to move the cam lobes while the spark plugs are removed. What is wrong with my logic? Also these engines need oil (per the user manual) but with elevated ZDDP due to cam wear prevention and bucket shims. These are late 1980's designed engines, and oil at that time had higher ZDDP. The shelf stuff now, NOT THE BEST. I experienced cam wear at 290K miles, and did my own oil changes diligently for 31 years. I have new Toyota cams now, MLS head gasket & rebuilt top end.
Daniel I realize that its been several years since you made this video, so I hope this makes its way to you.( Is the following a correct statement ) So once you make all your measurement and you find that some are not within the spec, you then have to determine the size shim that is currently in the out of spec location. This will allow you to do the calculation on what size shim to replace it with. (Que) Is it best to put the old shim back where it came from until you have the correct size. The reason I ask, I think I read somewhere that the bucket or buckets can cause you a problem as you proceed forward in measuring any remaining out of spec shims Your video was short but straight to the point thanks for posting it. Gary In Tenn
Yes pull the out of spec shim out, use a micrometer to measure it's thickness, then with that measurement and the measurement you had for lash (when out of spec shim was installed) example say for Cyl. 1 Exhaust valve. your lash before was .019 which equals= .482mm, and your out of spec shim was .0906 which equals= 2.30mm You then use the Exhaust shim selection chart... shim thickness 2.30 (at top line), with measured clearance .482 (left vertical list of numbers on chart) Use two pieces of paper and where they intersect on the chart is the shim needed... My example yielded a required #11 shim If you Don't have the replacement shim on hand; Re install the out of spec shim that you will replace when your new required shim arrives from dealership... Hope that clears it up for anyone in the future... AND REALIZE THE CHART IS IN millimeters NOT inches... you have to convert most feeler gauges from inches measurement to mm same with micrometer reading (the case with my tools that I use anyway)
He's using the red Schley tool to wrap around the camshaft and press down the spring-loaded bucket. Next, you wedge the little pry bar thingy in between the camshaft and the edge of the bucket, which holds the bucket down and out of the way, while you pop the shim out with tiny screwdriver and magnet.
At the risk of asking a dumb question, how do you confirm the thickness of new shims? I have been looking at various sellers of shims, and I do not see the thickness written on the packages or descriptions.
Hmm not sure why those vendors don’t have the sizes listed. I got my shims at Woodward Equipment. They have the sizes listed. Also Yota Shop has the sizes listed. www.cylinderheadsupply.com/valve-clearance-discs-34mm.html www.yotashop.com/valve-shim-toyota-4runner-pickup-truck-t100-v6-3-0l-3vz-e-1988-1995-valve-shim-3vzvalveshim/
I'm in the middle of this job and can confirm that this is definitely the way to do the job on the 3VZE (thanks for posting!). However, I'm trying to do the same thing on #6 EX valve, and there's just no room to work w/the brake booster right in front of it... any suggestions?
For some of the harder to reach ones I had to take the cam shafts out. I definitely had to take the cam out for the #6. It was a pain for sure. Good luck.
Thanks, but I eventually got #6 EX out using a 3/16" allen wrench to lever the bucket down, even with the brake booster installed. Still, very, very difficult...
Shorten the length of the handle, by cutting “x” off, so it fits between the master brake cylinder and the #6 EX valve bucket assembly. Then position arm underneath the master brake cylinder and reach for plier handle to which you rotate downward. Insert holder and remove shim
For anyone still having this issue, I removed the brake booster to reach the #6 EX valve shim. You can disconnect the brake master cylinder from the brake booster without opening lines and pull it back carefully without bending brake lines, to allow room for you to remove the brake booster which takes 5 mins to remove. The brake lines will be in the way so you’ll push the lifter down about 50% with your tool from Toyota and put your stopper in, then readjust your tool where the brake lines are in between the handles to further compress the lifter down (since the brake booster isn’t installed) and then put your stopper tool in again for the second time to hold the lifter down 100% of the way. Yeah it’s tedious but it works.
So you want to to make sure your valve clearances are in spec, the reason why it wouldn’t be is because of the shims. If you’re shims are too thick, it’ll push the valve down further than it needs to be, your valve will be slightly open and cause compression issues. This is just a maintenance issue. It should be done when rebuilding the engine, but can also be done to diagnose in general if you’re having compression issues.
It's an amazing design once its dialed in. You will find this set up on alot of high performance racing engines. Think about how many moving parts are taken away. No rockers arms and such. Though, I think its a little overkill for a low reving no horsepower design...
Toyota/Lexus Valve Adjusting Tool Set
Designed to allow for easy valve adjustment on most Toyotas overhead camshaft engines using spacer shims for valve adjustment
In operation, the tip of the pliers pushed between the spacer shim and the camshaft as the pliers are squeezed close
This action then moves the shim and its valve lifter down away from the camshaft lobe
In this down position the separate wedge tool is placed between the valve lifter ledge and the camshaft
This wedkge tool then maintains a gap between the shim and the camshaft as the pliers are removed
The spacer shim can then be removed through this gap and replaced with one of the correct thickness
Definitely easier than removing the cam I would imagine.
Do you have to rotate the camshaft for each one you do or can you take a gap measurement as it sits
@@Odysseus38 as in the video, you need to have the cam lobe pointing away from the lifter/shim bucket when you take the measurement or replace the shim. Rotate the cam as necessary for each cam lobe.
Great tool! Wish all shims were this easy to remove. Mine our solid lifters and required to remove the complete bucket for adjustment...
Perfect video! No unnecessary talking!
Ok so I have this tool, my 3VZE motor is together & running. Why not put a 1/2 drive socket & ratchet & cheater bar on the front lower crank pulley bolt to turn the motor to move the cam lobes while the spark plugs are removed. What is wrong with my logic? Also these engines need oil (per the user manual) but with elevated ZDDP due to cam wear prevention and bucket shims. These are late 1980's designed engines, and oil at that time had higher ZDDP. The shelf stuff now, NOT THE BEST. I experienced cam wear at 290K miles, and did my own oil changes diligently for 31 years. I have new Toyota cams now, MLS head gasket & rebuilt top end.
Nice video and camera angle!
I didn't do this with my rebuild. I made sure the caps all went back in the same place but i didn't know about this then. Pry why it ticks some 😟
Perfect and easy !
Question: how do you know which is intake vs exhaust lobe? I saw the the clearance is a bit different depending on the valve
is this similar to a TR7?
With new loaded heads, should I get lifter noise? Or more likely a wrist pin?
Youre awesome!! Thanks
What's the number on feeler, 0.25mm?
I have a 94 4runner that developed valve clattering its the v6 3.0 how do you adjust the valves on motor?
Isaac Hernandez this is the way to do it.
Very good!!!
Daniel I realize that its been several years since you made this video, so I hope this makes its way to you.( Is the following a correct statement ) So once you make all your measurement and you find that some are not within the spec, you then have to determine the size shim that is currently in the out of spec location. This will allow you to do the calculation on what size shim to replace it with.
(Que) Is it best to put the old shim back where it came from until you have the correct size. The reason I ask, I think I read somewhere that the bucket or buckets can cause you a problem as you proceed forward in measuring any remaining out of spec shims Your video was short but straight to the point thanks for posting it. Gary In Tenn
Yes pull the out of spec shim out, use a micrometer to measure it's thickness, then with that measurement and the measurement you had for lash (when out of spec shim was installed)
example say for Cyl. 1 Exhaust valve. your lash before was .019 which equals= .482mm, and your out of spec shim was .0906 which equals= 2.30mm
You then use the Exhaust shim selection chart... shim thickness 2.30 (at top line), with measured clearance .482 (left vertical list of numbers on chart)
Use two pieces of paper and where they intersect on the chart is the shim needed... My example yielded a required #11 shim
If you Don't have the replacement shim on hand; Re install the out of spec shim that you will replace when your new required shim arrives from dealership...
Hope that clears it up for anyone in the future... AND REALIZE THE CHART IS IN millimeters NOT inches... you have to convert most feeler gauges from inches measurement to mm same with micrometer reading (the case with my tools that I use anyway)
For some odd reason I am not comprehending what you're doing with those first two tools?
He's using the red Schley tool to wrap around the camshaft and press down the spring-loaded bucket. Next, you wedge the little pry bar thingy in between the camshaft and the edge of the bucket, which holds the bucket down and out of the way, while you pop the shim out with tiny screwdriver and magnet.
Thanks man, good job , except for the gloves 😝
Just out of curiosity why did you agjust the shim clearance,were the too tight or making noise?
They were noisy and out of spec. I was already in there doing the head gaskets.
Noice. thanks for the video.
Will this work on a 2001 ford focus 2.0 L ztec? My engine has close to 120,000 mile and clicks now while at idle
At the risk of asking a dumb question, how do you confirm the thickness of new shims? I have been looking at various sellers of shims, and I do not see the thickness written on the packages or descriptions.
Hmm not sure why those vendors don’t have the sizes listed. I got my shims at Woodward Equipment. They have the sizes listed. Also Yota Shop has the sizes listed.
www.cylinderheadsupply.com/valve-clearance-discs-34mm.html
www.yotashop.com/valve-shim-toyota-4runner-pickup-truck-t100-v6-3-0l-3vz-e-1988-1995-valve-shim-3vzvalveshim/
I'm in the middle of this job and can confirm that this is definitely the way to do the job on the 3VZE (thanks for posting!). However, I'm trying to do the same thing on #6 EX valve, and there's just no room to work w/the brake booster right in front of it... any suggestions?
For some of the harder to reach ones I had to take the cam shafts out. I definitely had to take the cam out for the #6. It was a pain for sure. Good luck.
Thanks, but I eventually got #6 EX out using a 3/16" allen wrench to lever the bucket down, even with the brake booster installed. Still, very, very difficult...
Christian Griffith by any chance do you have video of the noise your 4runner was making?
Shorten the length of the handle, by cutting “x” off, so it fits between the master brake cylinder and the #6 EX valve bucket assembly. Then position arm underneath the master brake cylinder and reach for plier handle to which you rotate downward. Insert holder and remove shim
For anyone still having this issue, I removed the brake booster to reach the #6 EX valve shim. You can disconnect the brake master cylinder from the brake booster without opening lines and pull it back carefully without bending brake lines, to allow room for you to remove the brake booster which takes 5 mins to remove. The brake lines will be in the way so you’ll push the lifter down about 50% with your tool from Toyota and put your stopper in, then readjust your tool where the brake lines are in between the handles to further compress the lifter down (since the brake booster isn’t installed) and then put your stopper tool in again for the second time to hold the lifter down 100% of the way. Yeah it’s tedious but it works.
Hello! where i can byu this tool??
I got it on Amazon. Just search "Schley Products 88250 Valve Adjusting Tools for Toyota/Lexus"
My friend. I can't get one of the shims loose. The others went up easily. But one does not get up. How can I remove it do you think?
I used a thin tiny screwdriver to kinda pop some of the stubborn shims out
@@wickedfredthesecond Thank you very much. I made it. With a small screwdriver. Giving small blows. At the edges of the shims
I am confused is this necessary when rebuilding the engine or what is the point of this
So you want to to make sure your valve clearances are in spec, the reason why it wouldn’t be is because of the shims. If you’re shims are too thick, it’ll push the valve down further than it needs to be, your valve will be slightly open and cause compression issues. This is just a maintenance issue. It should be done when rebuilding the engine, but can also be done to diagnose in general if you’re having compression issues.
How do you figure out which one needs re-shimmed, or do you just replace all of them?
You need to use a gauge to check clearance
You replace only the ones that are out of spec...
So, basically, you just swap out the shims to adjust the valve clearence?
Yes
Mantap
Done subscribe
Hi
Just like that.
Yea next time cover the view from the tool that literally makes this job impossible. Thanks.
leave it to toyshita to use suck a stupid design...
It's an amazing design once its dialed in. You will find this set up on alot of high performance racing engines. Think about how many moving parts are taken away. No rockers arms and such.
Though, I think its a little overkill for a low reving no horsepower design...
Never mind....
Can you talk?