I had the same sudden loss of hot water flow in one shower only. After watching your video, I was dreading the replacement of the rough in valve. So I tried an " overnight vinegar back wash and soak" (attaching a 5' section of hose to the faucet pipe, plugging the shower head, holding the end of the hose up as high as possible and pouring a couple of quarts of vinegar in the top of the hose with the water heater cold water inlet closed but drain open), then a thorough back flush with pressurized cold water from another faucet also through the bathtub faucet and out the water heater drain. It worked perfectly, restoring the original flow rate and I didn't have to take anything apart except for removing the faucet to attach the hose. There was some blue tint afterwards coming out of the hot water lines throughout the house from the acid reacting with the copper/oxidation. But it cleared up after a thorough flush. Great video, especially Louie the cat.
This is a great video. So many people immediately tell you it's a clogged shower head or shower valve but never mention to actually measure the water before these devices to see what your baseline is. I'm a bit disappointed that I didnt think of this myself. Thank you very much for taking the time to create this video!
Seriously a great DIY video: concise and clear. Really appreciate you going thru the trouble shooting process. Videos like these are the only good reason for the internet to exist
What a great video! Now I feel confident in my ability to diagnose my problem. We just moved into a 70s duplex (which I purchased) and this "gentle rain" shower pressure is the pits.
The shower valve wasn't clogged - when I took the cartridge out and turned the water on, it gushed out of the handle pipe. The problem is that the cartridge is designed to severely limit the water flow rate. They use the same cartridge for faucets which are legally limited to 2.2 GPM. It's just a bad design to use that cartridge for a shower valve.
I think this could be picked up for Sundance. It is a story full of emotion and the direction kept me longing for more throughout. What a journey. Let's hope Joaquín Phoenix will play the cat.
***** Your shower handle(s) are connected directly to your rough-in valve. It will be behind the wall that the handles are mounted to. So it should be in your condo unless that wall borders a neighboring condo. Often times the other side of that wall will be inside a closet and there will be an access panel, which is how mine was set up.
It is ridiculous that they would restrict water flow on bath tub faucet. Restricting water flow on bath tub faucet does not save water, it only increases the time needed to full the bathtub! Wasting time aside, it wastes energy! As it takes longer to fill the tub, hot water turns colder (since hot water is hotter than ambient temperature) and you end up using more hot water.
My restrictor has been engraved to 2.5gpm while outputs 1.2 like water is scarce. It seems to me the companies are unskilled and defect to design proper water restrictor. They are not creative nor able to apply common sense in order to design right thing but copy each other even improper design. I red Amazon reviews. There is no shower without restrictor and all are confused about the flow. The main reason for their inability to design good flow might be different water pressures in houses. Great video, good job, good math and simple but common sense analysis. You not only helped me to get blasting shower which I love and longed for 3 years but actually also encouraged me to find a video to repair my kitchen pipe too. For kitchen pipe you just cook the filter in drain cleaner for a minute to double the rate of flow. If somebody would like to know -the water filter for kitchen pipe is where the water comes out, just unscrew it and cook for min, screw back and that's it. Thanks again cameratest!
Necko L There are shower heads on Ebay that have no restrictions on them.. I have such a shower head myself.. but unfortunately if your pressure is low even without the shower head.. it won't end up helping you much.
+Jonathan Lin www.zdnet.com/article/new-doe-regulations-target-water-hogging-showerheads/ Do you think our federal government has gotten big enough yet?
Every new shower head comes with a flow restriction device to conserve water. Simply remove it. It is the first thing you see when you look in the head from where the goose neck attaches to it. It is a small plastic thing that pops right out. Just use pliers and it pulls right out. EVERY new shower head has them, bar none. They do it because many states require them, so they make them all have it, and it is up to the plumber to remove if need be. They can be removed very easily. When removed, your flow rate will usually triple. Also every mixing valve has an adjusting ring to limit flow so people can't get scalded. It is right behind the handle. Simply lift it (it has gear teeth around the edges) and turn counter clockwise to increase the flow rate, then push it back in. Start with shower head... the restriction device is the issue 99.9% of the time. If you have slow flow still, adjust the ring behind the handle. There are no other cartridges... they are adjustable if you know what you are doing.
While these American Standard valves can clog up pretty easy, they can also be hacked. There are two small spring valves that when you split the cartridge apart (unscrew) you can pop the two spring valves out and get a bit more pressure. No drilling, just disassemble and re-assemble. There are two rubber washers on those inlets that want to fall off. Just a bit of liquid plumbing "tape" and they will stay on for re-assembly. Not too hard and you can get a bit more pressure (along with punching out the shower head restriction). The other option is to buy the rather expensive higher flow rough in valves. And even then, those aren't always clear as to how many GPM you actually get.
Thanks so much. VERY helpful. I'm having the exact same issue. VERY annoying. It's holding up my bathroom reno. Yours is the first video to explain the problem properly. Again, many thanks for sharing your intelligent & well documented trouble shooting methods.
Followup: when I pulled on the main valve and turned the house water backed on I had HUGE water flow. So my problem is not in my pipes, its with the crappy brand new shower faucet valve. (Generic brand, but almost identical to a Delta) I took the valve apart and the chamber for cold water was almost double the size of the hot water chamber. Which is exactly the ratio of water flow I was getting, double on cold vs. on hot. So this is a design problem that has become "my" problem. Uggggggh!!!! I just want decent hot water flow. Is that too much to ask?!!!! It's the frikkin' GREEN AGENDA screwing with us people - time to rise up and tell them to shove it!!!!
Ted C. Called local plumbing retailer, they informed me that as far as they know nobody makes an un-restricted, full flow shower valve now, due to government regulations. If anyone learns of one, please post it here.
Ted C. The regulations limit the flow rate of shower heads and faucets, not the valve itself. As I mentioned in the video, American Standard makes a shower valve that will produce 6+ gallons per minute from the tub spout or shower pipe without a shower head on it.
I think you're reading their flow rate graph incorrectly (I saw it), or maybe I am. My reading online indicated that the valves themselves are restricted now as well as the shower heads. My brand new valve certainly is. However, I did find a Delta shower valve for rough in that goes up to 12+ gallons per minute. It's intended for multi-shower installs where maybe you've got 4 + showers firing in one tub. So while us ordinary folk have to survive on 2.5 gpm, the rich can have unlimited gpm because they can afford multi-head showers. Whole thing is kinda stupid IMHO. I think the 2.5 gpm just means our showers take 2 X as long.
This has got to be my favorite thing on RUclips. This beat all the memes. I don't know why but I found you holding the pitcher under the water so funny, you're cat was adorable and this was super helpful.
I'm really thankful I found this video, we have an unfinished shower in the basement of our home that everyone loves using because it always seemed like it had the most pressure output than our other 2 showers, but the old shower head was kinda falling apart after years of use and every time my mother would buy a new one it just didn't have the same pressure of water coming out, and all we did was change the showerhead itself, not mess with anything else, well my father told me about the stupid EPA Water saver nonsense they were added a while back, and after doing some reading and watching your video, I thought to myself, there has to be an easier way to fix this issue. So I took one of the jank-ass new showerheads my mother bought apart, and I took out all these washers and restrictors within the head, which actually lowered the diameter of the water flow within the head. After I put the base of it back together, I only left the water filter back in the head, I put the head on the pipe, and turned it on. And Boom!!! It freaking worked!!! Now I didn't measure the water output afterward, the showerhead itself states it's 1.8gpm but it's definitely doing a lot more than that, and all the mode changes work even better! The Jet is a Jet now!!! Now I don't have to go out and buy a new shower head which would also have its limitation even if you find a good 2.5gpm head. And I thank you for giving me the idea of opening up the values, I just had to do it in the head itself! Mike.
A great production! I genuinely cared about the actors (esp the cat), and I was riveted to the end of the quest to fix the water pressure problem. This cameratest guy has got something.
Thanks for posting--interesting stuff. Look for flow restrictors within shower heads too--I once added one to save water on a shower that had higher pressure. However, if your pressure is not high, then such restrictors can be removed and will boost pressure and flow.
I replied to the host, but yes I did exactly that with one of these 1.8gpm showerheads, I took it apart and took out all sorts of innards that deceased the flow diameter. And put it on the pipe and it's working amazing now!
Yeah you really just have to de-solder/cut out the old valve and solder in a new one. But I didn't have the tools and didn't want to cause a leak. Plus my access panel provided basically no access above the valve and I wasn't sure how to go about working with that space.
What is the model of the rough-in valves from American Standard that you used? You mentioned everything but the model number part number I have the same issue exactly like yours !
WOW! Finally. After 20 years of (halfheartedly) trying to figure out the same issue, someone gives a thorough and awesome video answer!! Thank you!! I always assumed it was in the shower head (some kind of limit), and tried modifying, using antique ones, looked to import from Canada/Mexico/Europe, to no avail. Now the question is, what rough in valve brand has the best flow rate, and should an imported one be better?.
+Jack FnTwist Glad I can help! There should be no reason to import the rough-in valve since there are no regulations limiting their output in the US and I know for sure that American Standard makes valves that put out plenty of water. Shower heads are regulated to 2.5GPM in the US so if you want more than that you'll have to modify one or import one. IMO 2.5GPM is more than enough water for a shower though.
your video is great...the editing, narrative, and stills is easy to follow and logical. thanks for posting. still don't know how to fix the water flow issue in my kitchen faucet but learned a lot from your video.
so do I just take the thing out of the faucet and let it go like that? A plumber installed a faucet with a low flow pressure saying I had to have it but I can;t get enough water out of it
Just kind of sidetracked but you had the wrong cartridge you want the Moen 1224 for a two handle faucet. The one you had was for a single knob hot and cold. That fixed our problem along with removing the shower head's flow restricter
If you lower the shower hose pipe to it's lowest point is the pressure / air flow good, run for a couple of mins to test. As you raise it does it decrease in pressure or change temperature? Check and clean 1) the shower head, 2) that the internal shower pipe is not kinked or blocked, borrow another one from a neighbour to test if you don't have a spare. If it works then you just need to change yours. You can also clean with specialist products available from a store or just use vinegar. But clean afterwards before using. 3) if both are okay then you need to check your header tank, is it high enough to help the water flow? If not it may be just as easy to install an inline pump to improve the water flow but first check your heating system will allow this. Remember to put stop valves before and after the pump connections to aid maintenance 4) if your shower is electric then it;s either the head, pipe, the internal pump or flow detector. That's assuming the electric is connected.
wait! That wasn't me! It was my girlfriend! We loved your video! It was clear, beautifully quantitatively analytical, funny, fabulously delivered. I liked that you used more common tool that the one that possibly exists. It made success seem more attainable. And yes, Luis rocks. Loved those eyes.
I like the idea of measuring the actual flow. After removing flow restrictor, I got almost 2.5 GPM. Checking the conclusion of your video (1.9 GPM), I guess I should be happy. Thanks.
Question: Do batbtub faucets/diverters come with a water restrictor too? The maintenance man in my apartment complex just replaced my batbtub faucet/diverter because the pull up thing to turn the shower on broke. Well, he bought some cheap faucet/diverter and now when you turn on the water to fill the tub, it doesn't blast out the way it used to. I also have a wonderful shower head I had ordered from Amazon a few months back and it worked wonderful! I had removed the restrictor in it previously, but now, with that new faucet/diverter, the shower flow is extremely weak! So, what can I do to get my water pressure back the way it was? The mainland man claims he can't do anything, which is ridiculous because my water pressure was bad a** before he installed that atrocious new faucet/diverter! Help!! I have very long, thick hair and I cannot rinse it properly without water pressure. Oh, and also, my shower head is leaking water when the diverter isn't even pushed.
My new single-handle, Delta, sink faucet is having a similar issue. I've already removed the aerator and kept the faucet fully open for a minute; very few, tiny particles came through. Hoping I just need to adjust and secure the springs.
The mix valve can clog as well, how to replace a clogged shower valve. May help and also, drilling out or pulling out the limiters put inside the shower heads is another video to watch, doing this increased our pressure, but this shower head thing we have, 3 of the 6 settings dont work at all, we did get more pressure, but its just something else or a crappy shower head.
I have this problem every six months. To resolve it my plumber comes out and turns on the water then shuts off the main at the street, removes the hot water handle and before I know it there's a bunch of gunk in the tub that I guess was clogging somewhere. When he puts everything back the pressure is good again. He tells me I can do it myself but I missed the steps/sequence. Don't even think he swaps out the cartridge - I'll have to pay him one more time I guess and follow along carefully.
ok. so it's the inlet valve fault. not the cartridge or shower head. wanna know how much did he total $ pay for the plumber to install that inlet valve
Need help! I installed new rough in valve in my house and no now there's no hot water. What I did wrong? Probably hot and cold water mix in the valve. How can I fix it?
I have little to no water pressure coming from my shower and separate tub on the west wall of my bathroom. One day I was showering and tubbing perfectly, and "zap" in an instant, the next day, I had barely a drip of water from both. On the other hand, the toilet and sink on the east wall have great pressure. I don't understand the problem. Please advise.
Great video. Exactly what I needed to know. My similar problem is probably being caused by the same thing. Thanks! I don’t know why anybody would’ve given this a thumbs down. I guess there are trolls everywhere...
EXCELLENT VIDEO. you wasted no time getting to the point, and left out no important details. and you clearly have a very analytical mind. and i like that you respected the cat need for adventure.
I have low pressure for hot water in my tub/shower. We bought our water heater around this time last year and because of a leak we haven't been able to use it until now. I've just replaced a large portion of the hot water piping under the house and now there's no pressure in the tub :/ like there's barely a stream and the pressure is fine everywhere else. There's always something. At least I can turn on my brand new water heater but I was looking forward to being able to take a shower in my own house. I really don't want to have to call a plumber.
It took me a long time to find this video. and i believe just like so many, that this exact situation applies to me as well. I am tempted to install/replace myself, and am considering switching to the more common single handle installation. Any thoughts? would it be too much work?
I live in an apartment with two showers right next to each other. One has super nice flow, the other with the bathtub is extremely soft. When the shower is on the tub part still flows some water. I wonder if I fix that somehow it’ll increase the shower head pressure
I just replace a 15 yr old Delta shower faucet with a new Delta unit. I noticed in the old solid brass valve body the lines and water channel where the water enters and exit were about a 1/2 in diameter, On the new on they were about 1/8 inch diameter. . I don't think there is anything to do to improve the flow.
Delta makes crap now, I don't know if you are referring to a kitchen / bathroom sink or shower when you are talking about them down sizing the pipes as I have never heard of it on tub / shower valves but they have gone one size below standard on their sink valves, cheap China manufacturing. normally you size down one pipe size at every major transition, old systems would enter the house at 1/2" & size down to 3/8 or 1/4 at each device, today they come in at 3/4" & size down to 1/2" at a water softener or water heater or main water manifold on Pex systems delivering more volume & pressure to your home system. so what Delta has done is go from 1/2 to 1/4 instead of the normal of 1/2 to 3/8, this creates the illusion of having good water pressure while sacrificing water volume, do if you pull out the restriction discs in the shower heads & nozzles you will get more pressure but the trade off will be less water volume when you break those plumbing rules to save money on tubing. now with showers this is also a big problem with pressure balanced valves & diverter valves because they unlike the old valves can not pass a full unrestricted 1/2" or 3/8" diameter volume of water they have restrictive ports of 1/4 to 1/8" which acts as a restriction device then over size back to 1/2" standard plumbing pipe up to your shower (thus over sizing the pipe without the ability to carry that volume of water to the shower head without losing pressure in the process) where the proper design would take water from the valve or diverter valve (if applicable) at the port size diameter to the shower head to maintain max volume & pressure , then building more pressure at the shower head. this difference is normally not noticeable at the normal 60 - 80 psi city water but all this energy conservation crap is a nightmare if you have low water pressure or like me are on a private well with 30 / 50 psi I did size down the pipe that runs from my diverter valve to the shower head & that gave me about 1/4 more pressure without loosing volume as well it holds the pressure more consistent as the pump cycles but still with the pressure balancing mixer & the 3 way diverter valve it still only gives me 2.5 to 3 GPM full open out the straight pipe & 1.5 to 2.0 once the shower head with no restriction devices installed with my available water pressure. so this has given me some hope, if I can find a valve that passes at least 4 GPM @ 20 PSI it should give me an acceptable shower pressure.
Did water leak through your tub spout anymore while the shower was on? Was the leakage from having too much water trying to go through one tiny hole so it spilled into the other hole? My apartment shower has awful pressure and it leaks through the tub just like yours. We're moving in a month to a house, though, so my 2 years of miserable showers is hopefully about to be over. Also, I know it's different in every area, but about how much did the rough-in valve run you with labor?
Good video but I am still confused and don't understand. Why do you need to replace a rough-in valve when you obviously had strong water flow when you removed the cartridge?
Without the cartridge, there is no way to turn off the water at the shower. And as far as I know there is no other style of cartridge that fits in this valve that will allow more water to come through.
cameratest Okay but if you change do rough-in valve how do you bypass the low pressure emitting cartridge that you’re not going to remove and leave inside?
My showerhead water pressure was ridiculous when i lived in a fancy smancy apt. I pulled the showerhead off and found a restrictor plug in it. Just pulled it out and voilla....pressure enough to actually rinse sudz off in a timely fashion.
Hi cameratest Great video! I am wondering if you can help me with some advice? I believe I have this same problem BUT I have lived in my apt. for 10yrs and had AMAZING shower pressure up until last month when they did work in my bathroom. I am assuming they replaced pipes and now the pressure in the shower and tube are weak. There is no question that the buildings water pressure is high - prob like the 6gpm like you show at the end of your video. So as a renter is there anything I can do under $200 or is there what would I need to do with a plumber to get back the water pressure I had before they changed something in the pipes? I know it's not the shower head I think it is similar to your issue you solve in this video. Thanks! Toronto Canada
Did they replace your rough-in valve? Maybe they took out a high-flow type like the one at the end of my video and replaced it with a low-flow version like the one I started with. Maybe you can replace just the rough-in valve. I bought a whole set including the valve, handles, tub spout, and shower head but you really don't have to get the whole set. Just be sure you know the water flow specs of the new valve.
I have a question, can you have not removed the restrictor all together? Why were you looking for a similar less restrictive replacement? I take it you could have made a flow restrictor yourself by simply drilling a small hole into a metal or fitting a washer etc. Would love somebody to explain this to me as I found out my parents were looking to buy some shitty shower pressure device that sits in a loft and reassembles a pump or something. I think this is not their problem.
The cartridge I show at 2:05 acts as a valve to allow you to turn on and shut off the water. If you remove it entirely, you won't be able to turn off the water with the shower handles. If you try to drill it out to make bigger holes, you have to make sure it is still able to seal properly to shut off the water or you'll have a leak.
cameratest Ah thanks, much appreciated. I will talk to my plumber friend when he installs the bath for them and get some measurements. We may not have to do this if the new stuff works fine.
Yes, they pop right out. They are put there to conserve water. Some states require them, so the manufacturers put them on all their valves, so they don't have to have more products that are redundant. Just grab it with pliers and pull it out. Usually this is the problem. Once removed the flow rate will usually triple.
+Faisal Akbari I'm not sure if they still make the exact model I bought (model# 7220.732) since I don't see it on American Standard's website, but they still have high-flow showers such as the Colony Soft (model# 3275.502). You can find the flow rate specs of American Standard's shower sets on their website. Click on a faucet or valve product, and under the 'downloads' heading there should be a link called "Spec Sheet". That PDF includes a Flow Rate graph like the one shown in my video at 3:37. Delta faucets also provides a flow rate graph in their Technical Specifications on their website. I couldn't find specs for Moen or Kholer faucets.
I found many shower heads have a water pressure restrictor behind the filter. I had plenty of water pressure and replaced my shower head to find very little pressure. I took out this plastic restrictor and nice water pressure was back!
Hi, thank you so much for the informative video. I was just wondering if you had some insight on my problem. My bath faucet has lots of power but when I turn on the shower head, it doesn't come out strongly. Could that only be due to the shower head / pipe? or could it be a different problem? Because I've change the shower heads several times now, and I still have the same problem...
Man, you just opened my eyes to how I can diagnose my pressure problem. I have some experimenting to do with my gpm at a few outlets to see what's really going on. :) Louie is cool :/
Two things apply. First, all new shower heads have reducing screens to limit flow. It is to help conserve water (some states require them). Simply remove it. Second, the mixing valves have an adjusting ring to prevent people from being scalded by the hot water. There is a small ring that has geared teeth, just behind the handle (red in American Standard). Simply lift it, and rotate it counter clockwise to increase flow rate, press it back in, and replace the handle.
Peter Leinhos I didn't have any tool to measure the water pressure, I just measured the flow rate. That's easier. Just fill up a container of known volume and time how long it takes. You can use that to calculate gallons/minute or liters/minute.
Why did you just install the valve yourself? If not comfortable with soldering you could have used sharkbite connectors with the copper and learn how to cut, deburr, sand, and clean your pipes. You can also further increase the shower head flow by taking out the restrictor. Usually it involves just popping it out with a flat head screwdriver but it depends on the design of the restrictor as some are harder than others to do. Also, it is a good idea to replace your shower head nipple. My dad's nipple (haha) broke off in the fitting and was obviously leaking all over the place. I had to get a file, tap it in, and remove the broken part that was stuck. Replace it before it breaks. Lastly it's a good idea to use some Megaloc thread sealant on top of using teflon tape to insure a nice tight seal.
I am having the same problem with a shower in my house. Did you have an access panel on the back of your shower? I am thinking they will need to remove the tiles and drywall to access my pipes because the opposite side of the shower is my master bath shower.
Yes, I was fortunate that I had an access panel. The other side of that wall was a bedroom closet in my house. Before you tear out tile, I would follow the steps I took in this video to make sure the valve is the bottleneck and not the shower head, low water pressure to the whole house, corroded pipes, etc. Check the flow rate in another part of the house such as a utility sink or an outdoor faucet and make sure it's much higher than the shower head. Just time how long it takes to fill up a container and you can easily compare those numbers from different faucets. Remove your shower head and check the flow rate out of the bare pipe. If that's much lower than the utility sink, you could have a low flow shower valve. You can confirm that by shutting off the water, removing the cartridge from the valve, and then turning the water back on temporarily to see how much water comes out of your shower handle pipe. You can see from the video that I was able to remove the cartridge from the valve without accessing the pipes from the back. At that point you can confirm if replacing the valve is going to help you.
The slow flow is only in the stand up shower. My other show is having a problem with the stems and the diffuser of something like that. I had a plummer come out and quote me a price to repair. He said the cartridge is bad in the stand up shower. He quoted me a cost of 400.00 to repair the cartridge, stems, and that diffuser or what the thing is you pull up on to make the water run through the shower.
![Plumbing a bathroom explained in 4 minutes. [You CAN do it!] #diy #plumbing](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/lxhUIkZrnFw/mqdefault.jpg)
This is the best DIY video ever. Clear, concise, and cat.
cute car!
Cute Cat !
BEN TSAI mm
Yes
You say that to sweet talk him into doing yours? 😜 jk being funny
I had the same sudden loss of hot water flow in one shower only. After watching your video, I was dreading the replacement of the rough in valve. So I tried an " overnight vinegar back wash and soak" (attaching a 5' section of hose to the faucet pipe, plugging the shower head, holding the end of the hose up as high as possible and pouring a couple of quarts of vinegar in the top of the hose with the water heater cold water inlet closed but drain open), then a thorough back flush with pressurized cold water from another faucet also through the bathtub faucet and out the water heater drain.
It worked perfectly, restoring the original flow rate and I didn't have to take anything apart except for removing the faucet to attach the hose. There was some blue tint afterwards coming out of the hot water lines throughout the house from the acid reacting with the copper/oxidation. But it cleared up after a thorough flush.
Great video, especially Louie the cat.
Where exactly do you think the buildup was? The handle valve? Or the rough in valve?
This is a great video. So many people immediately tell you it's a clogged shower head or shower valve but never mention to actually measure the water before these devices to see what your baseline is. I'm a bit disappointed that I didnt think of this myself. Thank you very much for taking the time to create this video!
Seriously a great DIY video: concise and clear. Really appreciate you going thru the trouble shooting process. Videos like these are the only good reason for the internet to exist
If only every tutorial videos were this detail oriented and structured.. Subscribed!
What a great video! Now I feel confident in my ability to diagnose my problem. We just moved into a 70s duplex (which I purchased) and this "gentle rain" shower pressure is the pits.
I have to say that this was one of the best 4 minutes videos here in You tube I ever watch,thanks for the great video👍.
How much did it cost for your plumber to install the valve mentioned in 3:55 ?
You made the right call when you replaced the cartridges and got the same results. The shower valve it self was clogged. Great work :) and great video
The shower valve wasn't clogged - when I took the cartridge out and turned the water on, it gushed out of the handle pipe. The problem is that the cartridge is designed to severely limit the water flow rate. They use the same cartridge for faucets which are legally limited to 2.2 GPM. It's just a bad design to use that cartridge for a shower valve.
cameratest What happens when you dont put the cartridge back in and run it straight through? Better pressure?
The cartridge is a valve that allows you to turn the water flow on and off. If you don't have a cartridge you can't turn the water off.
Damn dude, I would never have thought to measure the flow. You sir, are persistent. Bravo.
SUPERB troubleshooting and explanation! The smartest plumber cannot do such a GREAT job like this man!!
I think this could be picked up for Sundance. It is a story full of emotion and the direction kept me longing for more throughout. What a journey. Let's hope Joaquín Phoenix will play the cat.
What?
cute cat
Looks like Mark Linehan wants to play Joker. Too bad, Joaquin Phoenix got that part too.
George Galloway can be... the cat...
***** Your shower handle(s) are connected directly to your rough-in valve. It will be behind the wall that the handles are mounted to. So it should be in your condo unless that wall borders a neighboring condo. Often times the other side of that wall will be inside a closet and there will be an access panel, which is how mine was set up.
cameratest o
It is ridiculous that they would restrict water flow on bath tub faucet. Restricting water flow on bath tub faucet does not save water, it only increases the time needed to full the bathtub! Wasting time aside, it wastes energy! As it takes longer to fill the tub, hot water turns colder (since hot water is hotter than ambient temperature) and you end up using more hot water.
I completely agree. It doesn't make any sense and wastes energy.
My restrictor has been engraved to 2.5gpm while outputs 1.2 like water is scarce. It seems to me the companies are unskilled and defect to design proper water restrictor. They are not creative nor able to apply common sense in order to design right thing but copy each other even improper design. I red Amazon reviews. There is no shower without restrictor and all are confused about the flow. The main reason for their inability to design good flow might be different water pressures in houses. Great video, good job, good math and simple but common sense analysis. You not only helped me to get blasting shower which I love and longed for 3 years but actually also encouraged me to find a video to repair my kitchen pipe too. For kitchen pipe you just cook the filter in drain cleaner for a minute to double the rate of flow. If somebody would like to know -the water filter for kitchen pipe is where the water comes out, just unscrew it and cook for min, screw back and that's it. Thanks again cameratest!
Necko L
There are shower heads on Ebay that have no restrictions on them..
I have such a shower head myself.. but unfortunately if your pressure is low even without the shower head.. it won't end up helping you much.
+Jonathan Lin www.zdnet.com/article/new-doe-regulations-target-water-hogging-showerheads/
Do you think our federal government has gotten big enough yet?
Every new shower head comes with a flow restriction device to conserve water. Simply remove it. It is the first thing you see when you look in the head from where the goose neck attaches to it. It is a small plastic thing that pops right out. Just use pliers and it pulls right out. EVERY new shower head has them, bar none. They do it because many states require them, so they make them all have it, and it is up to the plumber to remove if need be. They can be removed very easily. When removed, your flow rate will usually triple. Also every mixing valve has an adjusting ring to limit flow so people can't get scalded. It is right behind the handle. Simply lift it (it has gear teeth around the edges) and turn counter clockwise to increase the flow rate, then push it back in. Start with shower head... the restriction device is the issue 99.9% of the time. If you have slow flow still, adjust the ring behind the handle. There are no other cartridges... they are adjustable if you know what you are doing.
While these American Standard valves can clog up pretty easy, they can also be hacked. There are two small spring valves that when you split the cartridge apart (unscrew) you can pop the two spring valves out and get a bit more pressure. No drilling, just disassemble and re-assemble. There are two rubber washers on those inlets that want to fall off. Just a bit of liquid plumbing "tape" and they will stay on for re-assembly. Not too hard and you can get a bit more pressure (along with punching out the shower head restriction). The other option is to buy the rather expensive higher flow rough in valves. And even then, those aren't always clear as to how many GPM you actually get.
Thanks so much. VERY helpful. I'm having the exact same issue. VERY annoying. It's holding up my bathroom reno. Yours is the first video to explain the problem properly. Again, many thanks for sharing your intelligent & well documented trouble shooting methods.
Followup: when I pulled on the main valve and turned the house water backed on I had HUGE water flow. So my problem is not in my pipes, its with the crappy brand new shower faucet valve. (Generic brand, but almost identical to a Delta) I took the valve apart and the chamber for cold water was almost double the size of the hot water chamber. Which is exactly the ratio of water flow I was getting, double on cold vs. on hot. So this is a design problem that has become "my" problem. Uggggggh!!!! I just want decent hot water flow. Is that too much to ask?!!!! It's the frikkin' GREEN AGENDA screwing with us people - time to rise up and tell them to shove it!!!!
Ted C. The above should read: "When I pulled "OUT" the main valve. . . "
Ted C. Called local plumbing retailer, they informed me that as far as they know nobody makes an un-restricted, full flow shower valve now, due to government regulations. If anyone learns of one, please post it here.
Ted C. The regulations limit the flow rate of shower heads and faucets, not the valve itself. As I mentioned in the video, American Standard makes a shower valve that will produce 6+ gallons per minute from the tub spout or shower pipe without a shower head on it.
I think you're reading their flow rate graph incorrectly (I saw it), or maybe I am. My reading online indicated that the valves themselves are restricted now as well as the shower heads. My brand new valve certainly is. However, I did find a Delta shower valve for rough in that goes up to 12+ gallons per minute. It's intended for multi-shower installs where maybe you've got 4 + showers firing in one tub. So while us ordinary folk have to survive on 2.5 gpm, the rich can have unlimited gpm because they can afford multi-head showers. Whole thing is kinda stupid IMHO. I think the 2.5 gpm just means our showers take 2 X as long.
Thank you. This is one of the best info videos I've seen to date. It's clear and concise!
This has got to be my favorite thing on RUclips. This beat all the memes. I don't know why but I found you holding the pitcher under the water so funny, you're cat was adorable and this was super helpful.
I'm really thankful I found this video, we have an unfinished shower in the basement of our home that everyone loves using because it always seemed like it had the most pressure output than our other 2 showers, but the old shower head was kinda falling apart after years of use and every time my mother would buy a new one it just didn't have the same pressure of water coming out, and all we did was change the showerhead itself, not mess with anything else, well my father told me about the stupid EPA Water saver nonsense they were added a while back, and after doing some reading and watching your video, I thought to myself, there has to be an easier way to fix this issue.
So I took one of the jank-ass new showerheads my mother bought apart, and I took out all these washers and restrictors within the head, which actually lowered the diameter of the water flow within the head. After I put the base of it back together, I only left the water filter back in the head, I put the head on the pipe, and turned it on. And Boom!!! It freaking worked!!! Now I didn't measure the water output afterward, the showerhead itself states it's 1.8gpm but it's definitely doing a lot more than that, and all the mode changes work even better! The Jet is a Jet now!!!
Now I don't have to go out and buy a new shower head which would also have its limitation even if you find a good 2.5gpm head.
And I thank you for giving me the idea of opening up the values, I just had to do it in the head itself!
Mike.
A great production! I genuinely cared about the actors (esp the cat), and I was riveted to the end of the quest to fix the water pressure problem. This cameratest guy has got something.
Super thorough and organized, thank you for communicating your troubleshooting process so well!
Thanks for posting--interesting stuff. Look for flow restrictors within shower heads too--I once added one to save water on a shower that had higher pressure. However, if your pressure is not high, then such restrictors can be removed and will boost pressure and flow.
I replied to the host, but yes I did exactly that with one of these 1.8gpm showerheads, I took it apart and took out all sorts of innards that deceased the flow diameter. And put it on the pipe and it's working amazing now!
Thanks for the vid... was hoping for a different outcome than "hired a plumber", but at least I got some good info!
Yeah you really just have to de-solder/cut out the old valve and solder in a new one. But I didn't have the tools and didn't want to cause a leak. Plus my access panel provided basically no access above the valve and I wasn't sure how to go about working with that space.
What is the model of the rough-in valves from American Standard that you used? You mentioned everything but the model number part number I have the same issue exactly like yours !
WOW! Finally. After 20 years of (halfheartedly) trying to figure out the same issue, someone gives a thorough and awesome video answer!! Thank you!! I always assumed it was in the shower head (some kind of limit), and tried modifying, using antique ones, looked to import from Canada/Mexico/Europe, to no avail. Now the question is, what rough in valve brand has the best flow rate, and should an imported one be better?.
+Jack FnTwist Glad I can help! There should be no reason to import the rough-in valve since there are no regulations limiting their output in the US and I know for sure that American Standard makes valves that put out plenty of water. Shower heads are regulated to 2.5GPM in the US so if you want more than that you'll have to modify one or import one. IMO 2.5GPM is more than enough water for a shower though.
your video is great...the editing, narrative, and stills is easy to follow and logical. thanks for posting. still don't know how to fix the water flow issue in my kitchen faucet but learned a lot from your video.
Great video , very true about the bottle necking of the flow through the valves , its always the most restrictive part of your home's water flow .
so do I just take the thing out of the faucet and let it go like that? A plumber installed a faucet with a low flow pressure saying I had to have it but I can;t get enough water out of it
thanks for this video. I fix this problem at my shower following these instructions and save me about $170 for a plumber call.
Hey, "Lilly" was just doing a cat scan of the plumbing situation. This is essential for all plumbing repair solutions.
Just kind of sidetracked but you had the wrong cartridge you want the Moen 1224 for a two handle faucet. The one you had was for a single knob hot and cold. That fixed our problem along with removing the shower head's flow restricter
Yep
If you lower the shower hose pipe to it's lowest point is the pressure / air flow good, run for a couple of mins to test. As you raise it does it decrease in pressure or change temperature? Check and clean 1) the shower head, 2) that the internal shower pipe is not kinked or blocked, borrow another one from a neighbour to test if you don't have a spare. If it works then you just need to change yours. You can also clean with specialist products available from a store or just use vinegar. But clean afterwards before using. 3) if both are okay then you need to check your header tank, is it high enough to help the water flow? If not it may be just as easy to install an inline pump to improve the water flow but first check your heating system will allow this. Remember to put stop valves before and after the pump connections to aid maintenance 4) if your shower is electric then it;s either the head, pipe, the internal pump or flow detector. That's assuming the electric is connected.
wait! That wasn't me! It was my girlfriend! We loved your video! It was clear, beautifully quantitatively analytical, funny, fabulously delivered. I liked that you used more common tool that the one that possibly exists. It made success seem more attainable. And yes, Luis rocks. Loved those eyes.
I like the idea of measuring the actual flow. After removing flow restrictor, I got almost 2.5 GPM. Checking the conclusion of your video (1.9 GPM), I guess I should be happy. Thanks.
Question: Do batbtub faucets/diverters come with a water restrictor too? The maintenance man in my apartment complex just replaced my batbtub faucet/diverter because the pull up thing to turn the shower on broke. Well, he bought some cheap faucet/diverter and now when you turn on the water to fill the tub, it doesn't blast out the way it used to. I also have a wonderful shower head I had ordered from Amazon a few months back and it worked wonderful! I had removed the restrictor in it previously, but now, with that new faucet/diverter, the shower flow is extremely weak!
So, what can I do to get my water pressure back the way it was? The mainland man claims he can't do anything, which is ridiculous because my water pressure was bad a** before he installed that atrocious new faucet/diverter! Help!! I have very long, thick hair and I cannot rinse it properly without water pressure.
Oh, and also, my shower head is leaking water when the diverter isn't even pushed.
Louie is so cool!!! I learned a lot from this video and the Louie appearances were an awesome bonus!
My new single-handle, Delta, sink faucet is having a similar issue. I've already removed the aerator and kept the faucet fully open for a minute; very few, tiny particles came through. Hoping I just need to adjust and secure the springs.
Ok, so the only solution was to replace the type of shower rough in it was? What brand was the old brand?
Was hoping that the fix would've been a cartridge replacement. How much did the new valve set you back?
What was the fix? The new shower head and handles or the plumbing in the back?
Did you look to see if the holes where larger on the other cartridge?
The mix valve can clog as well, how to replace a clogged shower valve. May help and also, drilling out or pulling out the limiters put inside the shower heads is another video to watch, doing this increased our pressure, but this shower head thing we have, 3 of the 6 settings dont work at all, we did get more pressure, but its just something else or a crappy shower head.
I have this problem every six months. To resolve it my plumber comes out and turns on the water then shuts off the main at the street, removes the hot water handle and before I know it there's a bunch of gunk in the tub that I guess was clogging somewhere. When he puts everything back the pressure is good again. He tells me I can do it myself but I missed the steps/sequence. Don't even think he swaps out the cartridge - I'll have to pay him one more time I guess and follow along carefully.
Haha "Louie you little shit" lol
But great video man, gonna try this right now. Thanks for posting this
ok. so it's the inlet valve fault. not the cartridge or shower head. wanna know how much did he total $ pay for the plumber to install that inlet valve
So what’s the difference ? What exactly did you change ?
Need help! I installed new rough in valve in my house and no now there's no hot water. What I did wrong? Probably hot and cold water mix in the valve. How can I fix it?
I have little to no water pressure coming from my shower and separate tub on the west wall of my bathroom. One day I was showering and tubbing perfectly, and "zap" in an instant, the next day, I had barely a drip of water from both. On the other hand, the toilet and sink on the east wall have great pressure. I don't understand the problem. Please advise.
TY first time all options to get some real water pressure. I'm so jelly of your water pressure after u did all that.
great video! how much did it cost?
Great video. Exactly what I needed to know. My similar problem is probably being caused by the same thing. Thanks! I don’t know why anybody would’ve given this a thumbs down. I guess there are trolls everywhere...
EXCELLENT VIDEO. you wasted no time getting to the point, and left out no important details. and you clearly have a very analytical mind. and i like that you respected the cat need for adventure.
I have low pressure for hot water in my tub/shower. We bought our water heater around this time last year and because of a leak we haven't been able to use it until now. I've just replaced a large portion of the hot water piping under the house and now there's no pressure in the tub :/ like there's barely a stream and the pressure is fine everywhere else. There's always something. At least I can turn on my brand new water heater but I was looking forward to being able to take a shower in my own house. I really don't want to have to call a plumber.
why the water comes very slowly at first. is it by clog?? is there any way to remove the clog without remove the tap? sir
Does anyone know if there is a rough-in type valve for a sink?
So what if it’s only the hot water that has low pressure?
It took me a long time to find this video. and i believe just like so many, that this exact situation applies to me as well. I am tempted to install/replace myself, and am considering switching to the more common single handle installation. Any thoughts? would it be too much work?
Can your advice work for me for living in a unit complex, surrounded by other people? Our water pressure in our kitchen and bathroom sucks big time!
Is that a moen?
Are you trying to say gallons?
Very succinctly done - and I love how you included your snoopy four-legged helper! ;-)
worthless anyone can just change valve
Exellent video! Very well organized and clear information, just wish RUclips wouldn't cut off the tail end of the video.
Good video but I'm guessing if you didn't pull the restricters out of the shower heads you'll get even more out of the showers.
I live in an apartment with two showers right next to each other. One has super nice flow, the other with the bathtub is extremely soft. When the shower is on the tub part still flows some water. I wonder if I fix that somehow it’ll increase the shower head pressure
best part of the video - guest celebrity kitty
were you only getting low flow from the hot side?
Many thanks for the excellent effort you put into this video. It gives me some good ideas for my own water-flow travails.
Any suggestions on what to do if tub spout flow rate is great but not from the shower, even if the showerhead is removed?
not what i was searching for but very helpful!
I just replace a 15 yr old Delta shower faucet with a new Delta unit. I noticed in the old solid brass valve body the lines and water channel where the water enters and exit were about a 1/2 in diameter, On the new on they were about 1/8 inch diameter. . I don't think there is anything to do to improve the flow.
Delta makes crap now, I don't know if you are referring to a kitchen / bathroom sink or shower when you are talking about them down sizing the pipes as I have never heard of it on tub / shower valves but they have gone one size below standard on their sink valves, cheap China manufacturing.
normally you size down one pipe size at every major transition, old systems would enter the house at 1/2" & size down to 3/8 or 1/4 at each device, today they come in at 3/4" & size down to 1/2" at a water softener or water heater or main water manifold on Pex systems delivering more volume & pressure to your home system.
so what Delta has done is go from 1/2 to 1/4 instead of the normal of 1/2 to 3/8, this creates the illusion of having good water pressure while sacrificing water volume, do if you pull out the restriction discs in the shower heads & nozzles you will get more pressure but the trade off will be less water volume when you break those plumbing rules to save money on tubing.
now with showers this is also a big problem with pressure balanced valves & diverter valves because they unlike the old valves can not pass a full unrestricted 1/2" or 3/8" diameter volume of water they have restrictive ports of 1/4 to 1/8" which acts as a restriction device then over size back to 1/2" standard plumbing pipe up to your shower (thus over sizing the pipe without the ability to carry that volume of water to the shower head without losing pressure in the process) where the proper design would take water from the valve or diverter valve (if applicable) at the port size diameter to the shower head to maintain max volume & pressure , then building more pressure at the shower head.
this difference is normally not noticeable at the normal 60 - 80 psi city water but all this energy conservation crap is a nightmare if you have low water pressure or like me are on a private well with 30 / 50 psi
I did size down the pipe that runs from my diverter valve to the shower head & that gave me about 1/4 more pressure without loosing volume as well it holds the pressure more consistent as the pump cycles but still with the pressure balancing mixer & the 3 way diverter valve it still only gives me 2.5 to 3 GPM full open out the straight pipe & 1.5 to 2.0 once the shower head with no restriction devices installed with my available water pressure.
so this has given me some hope, if I can find a valve that passes at least 4 GPM @ 20 PSI it should give me an acceptable shower pressure.
Did water leak through your tub spout anymore while the shower was on? Was the leakage from having too much water trying to go through one tiny hole so it spilled into the other hole? My apartment shower has awful pressure and it leaks through the tub just like yours. We're moving in a month to a house, though, so my 2 years of miserable showers is hopefully about to be over. Also, I know it's different in every area, but about how much did the rough-in valve run you with labor?
Good video but I am still confused and don't understand. Why do you need to replace a rough-in valve when you obviously had strong water flow when you removed the cartridge?
Without the cartridge, there is no way to turn off the water at the shower. And as far as I know there is no other style of cartridge that fits in this valve that will allow more water to come through.
cameratest Okay but if you change do rough-in valve how do you bypass the low pressure emitting cartridge that you’re not going to remove and leave inside?
@@infamist The new valve comes with a high throughput cartridge
(I posted my comment below before I read the other comments! Was gratifying to see so many others felt the same way!)
Wow..Thank you for taking all of that time to do the demonstrations! I learned alot..thanks!!
My showerhead water pressure was ridiculous when i lived in a fancy smancy apt. I pulled the showerhead off and found a restrictor plug in it. Just pulled it out and voilla....pressure enough to actually rinse sudz off in a timely fashion.
Did you use the American Standard Hampton Valve to replace your old valve?
Thanks for a nice video.
Hi cameratest Great video! I am wondering if you can help me with some advice? I believe I have this same problem BUT I have lived in my apt. for 10yrs and had AMAZING shower pressure up until last month when they did work in my bathroom. I am assuming they replaced pipes and now the pressure in the shower and tube are weak. There is no question that the buildings water pressure is high - prob like the 6gpm like you show at the end of your video. So as a renter is there anything I can do under $200 or is there what would I need to do with a plumber to get back the water pressure I had before they changed something in the pipes? I know it's not the shower head I think it is similar to your issue you solve in this video. Thanks! Toronto Canada
Did they replace your rough-in valve? Maybe they took out a high-flow type like the one at the end of my video and replaced it with a low-flow version like the one I started with. Maybe you can replace just the rough-in valve. I bought a whole set including the valve, handles, tub spout, and shower head but you really don't have to get the whole set. Just be sure you know the water flow specs of the new valve.
Good video, thanks, but before you went to disassemble the shower handle, shouldn't the main water valve be shut off? You didn't advise on that
Good point. I added an annotation to that effect.
I have a question, can you have not removed the restrictor all together? Why were you looking for a similar less restrictive replacement? I take it you could have made a flow restrictor yourself by simply drilling a small hole into a metal or fitting a washer etc. Would love somebody to explain this to me as I found out my parents were looking to buy some shitty shower pressure device that sits in a loft and reassembles a pump or something. I think this is not their problem.
The cartridge I show at 2:05 acts as a valve to allow you to turn on and shut off the water. If you remove it entirely, you won't be able to turn off the water with the shower handles. If you try to drill it out to make bigger holes, you have to make sure it is still able to seal properly to shut off the water or you'll have a leak.
cameratest Ah thanks, much appreciated. I will talk to my plumber friend when he installs the bath for them and get some measurements. We may not have to do this if the new stuff works fine.
Yes, they pop right out. They are put there to conserve water. Some states require them, so the manufacturers put them on all their valves, so they don't have to have more products that are redundant. Just grab it with pliers and pull it out. Usually this is the problem. Once removed the flow rate will usually triple.
I’m seeing the cartridges on amazon. I have the same issue. I do not want the cartridges. Search moen 1224 cartridges.
Thanks for the video. Can you provide a link to the rough in valve you used to replace the old one?
+Faisal Akbari I'm not sure if they still make the exact model I bought (model# 7220.732) since I don't see it on American Standard's website, but they still have high-flow showers such as the Colony Soft (model# 3275.502). You can find the flow rate specs of American Standard's shower sets on their website. Click on a faucet or valve product, and under the 'downloads' heading there should be a link called "Spec Sheet". That PDF includes a Flow Rate graph like the one shown in my video at 3:37. Delta faucets also provides a flow rate graph in their Technical Specifications on their website. I couldn't find specs for Moen or Kholer faucets.
+cameratest Very helpful. Thanks!
Wow, thank you for this video!! The stats make is so easy to understand what's going on!
I found many shower heads have a water pressure restrictor behind the filter. I had plenty of water pressure and replaced my shower head to find very little pressure. I took out this plastic restrictor and nice water pressure was back!
Great video. Love that the cat tried to help ;)
Hi, thank you so much for the informative video.
I was just wondering if you had some insight on my problem.
My bath faucet has lots of power but when I turn on the shower head, it doesn't come out strongly.
Could that only be due to the shower head / pipe? or could it be a different problem?
Because I've change the shower heads several times now, and I still have the same problem...
Excellent video and easy to follow instructions & information... five meows for Cat!
Hahaha, "Louie, you little shit." That was brilliant mate, thanks for the vid and the laughs..
Man, you just opened my eyes to how I can diagnose my pressure problem. I have some experimenting to do with my gpm at a few outlets to see what's really going on. :)
Louie is cool :/
Came for the water pressure info. Stayed for "Louis, you little shit!"
Step by step troubleshooting with numbers and a CAT!
That's a high quality video there, Thumbs up!
Two things apply. First, all new shower heads have reducing screens to limit flow. It is to help conserve water (some states require them). Simply remove it. Second, the mixing valves have an adjusting ring to prevent people from being scalded by the hot water. There is a small ring that has geared teeth, just behind the handle (red in American Standard). Simply lift it, and rotate it counter clockwise to increase flow rate, press it back in, and replace the handle.
What did you use to measure the Water presure from the shower head and main tub spigot?
Peter Leinhos I didn't have any tool to measure the water pressure, I just measured the flow rate. That's easier. Just fill up a container of known volume and time how long it takes. You can use that to calculate gallons/minute or liters/minute.
***** Again thank you for coming back and fleshing out the answer.. Will be very helpful. Peter
Why did you just install the valve yourself? If not comfortable with soldering you could have used sharkbite connectors with the copper and learn how to cut, deburr, sand, and clean your pipes. You can also further increase the shower head flow by taking out the restrictor. Usually it involves just popping it out with a flat head screwdriver but it depends on the design of the restrictor as some are harder than others to do.
Also, it is a good idea to replace your shower head nipple. My dad's nipple (haha) broke off in the fitting and was obviously leaking all over the place. I had to get a file, tap it in, and remove the broken part that was stuck. Replace it before it breaks.
Lastly it's a good idea to use some Megaloc thread sealant on top of using teflon tape to insure a nice tight seal.
I am having the same problem with a shower in my house. Did you have an access panel on the back of your shower? I am thinking they will need to remove the tiles and drywall to access my pipes because the opposite side of the shower is my master bath shower.
Yes, I was fortunate that I had an access panel. The other side of that wall was a bedroom closet in my house. Before you tear out tile, I would follow the steps I took in this video to make sure the valve is the bottleneck and not the shower head, low water pressure to the whole house, corroded pipes, etc. Check the flow rate in another part of the house such as a utility sink or an outdoor faucet and make sure it's much higher than the shower head. Just time how long it takes to fill up a container and you can easily compare those numbers from different faucets. Remove your shower head and check the flow rate out of the bare pipe. If that's much lower than the utility sink, you could have a low flow shower valve. You can confirm that by shutting off the water, removing the cartridge from the valve, and then turning the water back on temporarily to see how much water comes out of your shower handle pipe. You can see from the video that I was able to remove the cartridge from the valve without accessing the pipes from the back. At that point you can confirm if replacing the valve is going to help you.
The slow flow is only in the stand up shower. My other show is having a problem with the stems and the diffuser of something like that. I had a plummer come out and quote me a price to repair. He said the cartridge is bad in the stand up shower. He quoted me a cost of 400.00 to repair the cartridge, stems, and that diffuser or what the thing is you pull up on to make the water run through the shower.
Thank you for your reply.
I swear the cat was the best part of that video
This is a great video. I think this is the issue I'm having too, so I'm excited to see if that is the case. Very nice presentation here.
its been really cold here water in hte rest of the house just in this shower temp outside is are 12 %
Little cat gives fewer cares than the honey badger.
For a minute I thought the cat was the requirement for increasing low water pressure.
Why not just drill the holes out a little bigger to allow more flow