Thank you. This video was easy for me to follow. I discovered my friend’s stator coil was fried from letting a friend borrow it and let him “run a sump pump” (that’s a lie it was backfed by the grid obviously). The key here was measuring for voltage coming from the plug into the AVR block. There was no voltage! I realized then the stator may be damaged, and removed the AVR to discover extensive stator and rotor damage and burning!
Thanks for the video it really helps me alot my generator is bringing power after watching your video doing the same test found out one of the brushes is eating ❤❤❤❤❤
Your videos are awesome. I have 2 champion generators. I am testing my model #100165, but do you know why does it has 4 wires out of the stator instead of 3 lioe my 10 starting watt does? It has a black, red and 2 of the blue wires. The blue connect together though.
Hi. My 2 year old generator from TSC was hooked up with the red wire from the AVR going to the right side prong on the brush, which is the outer i believe. Is that the correct side? I read that plugging backwards will fry the small circuits in the AVR. My unit is a 10k watt starting.
Hi. When testing the Exciter field, if the voltage is in the good range between 4-8 volts AC, what else could be the issue besides the AVR? Could it be a bad circuit breaker? I am only getting 23 volts AC to the circuit breaker line side, and load side. But when I test the circuit breaker while removed from the generator, there is no continuity when switched on for the positive to positive terminal. The negative to negative has full continuity. Edit. When testing the circuit breaker again, now the positive has continuity. Huh. Maybe just a bad voltage regulator? I have champion power generator, model #201035, 10k watt max starting. Which AVR do I order if this is the case? Thank you. Your video makes me stay with getting champion. No one else, not one manufacturer I see helps their customers like you. My generator is only 1 year old from tractor supply. Please help.
We are sorry to hear this. If the voltage range is reading between four & eight volts, then it's the AVR that would need replacing. If you are within the generator's three-year warranty, please give us a call at 1-877-338-0999 or email support@cpeauto.com. Make sure to have the sales receipt handy. If out of warranty, the AVR is item 75 on page five in the owner's manual: www.championpowerequipment.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/201035-EPL-English-all.pdf
@@ChampionPowerEquipmentHQ is the outer slip ring supposed to have the white lead, and the inner slip ring have the red? When connected that way, it gets the 38v you do in the test, which is above the 15v required you said. My generator has someone place them on the opposite ways. They put red on the inner ring on the white lead, and outer on the red lead. Which way is correct? And would that destroy the AVR? Possibly fry it? Thank you.
My brush test was above was like 40v and my stator test was between 4-8v. White wire connector on brushes is a bit burnt and black. AVR need replacing? My lights in the house are flickering when big loads come on and off and generally fluttering a little bit all the time.
The brushes & AVR may need replacing. Please email us at support@cpeauto.com with the results of each test, so we can confirm what the culprit is. Thank you!
Mine did exactly what yours is..I used 600 grit emery cloth and cleaned the rings that the brushes rub against..after i did that the brushes didnt get hot.and the generator no longer flashed ( pulsed) lights when loaded..
I have been teaching myself small engine work for almost 3 years. I am currently restoring my second generator. This seems to be an excellent training video except for one detail which to me makes no sense. From 2:07 to 2:40 the Exciter Field is being tested. The narrator states that the voltage SHOULD be between 4 and 8V AC, but then immediately states if this IS the case the AVR needs to be replaced. Those two statements on their face seem contradictory (because of the word "should", which implies correct or acceptable). I suspect the explanation could be written more clearly and it ought to read thus - The voltage WILL read between 4 and 8 if the AVR IS FAULTY and DOES need to be replaced. If the voltage is OUTSIDE those parameters then the stator will need to be replaced. Do I understand that correctly? Thank you very much for this video - it has increased my knowledge in this area greatly! I will be referring to the links provided as well as your RUclips channel for more knowledge.
@@ChampionPowerEquipmentHQ hi guys - I replace the AVR and brushes and now the generator works perfectly. I think the brushes were ok, I just replaced them as one was shorter than the other. I think the main problem was a blown AVR. All good now :)
Hi. My generator show nominal voltage between 220-240v. But when i plug in an equipment, my equipment show sign like it has low voltage. Can u explain why?
We are sorry to hear this. Please perform the electrical output testing procedure & call 1-877-338-0999 or email support@cpeauto.com with the results. This will help us verify the issue completely. help.championpowerequipment.com/article/YRqK59KpFU-electrical-output-testing-procedure
We are sorry to hear that. We will need to verify your ohms reading because 250k is extremely high. We will also need you to provide the remaining results, so we can ensure that only the rotor is bad. Before concluding that the issue lies with the rotor, please call us at 1-877-338-0999 or email your results to support@cpeauto.com. This will allow us to assess your unit more accurately. Thank you for your patience.
At your earliest convenience, please email us a photo showing one to the copper to support@cpeauto.com, so we may help to verify if there are any issues. 🙂
You need to 'FLASH' (re magnetize the unit). When they sit for a period of time they lose their magnetic charge. Google the process, it will show the steps you need to take. Very simple process, only takes a couple of minutes.
@ChampionPowerEquipmentHQ sad thing is is my generator is only about 18 months old with maybe 50 hours on it. It's of course still under warranty and northern tool the people that your people sent me to have had my generator for 4 months and won't fix the piece of shit
We are sorry to hear this. We recommend next testing the rotor. For further assistance, please give us a call at 1-877-338-0999 or email us at support@cpeauto.com. Thank you.
@@ChampionPowerEquipmentHQ I found the problem.. corrosion / compromised brush lead in wire was heated and dropped voltage possibly. I also unplugged the harness from avr and sprayed wd-40 in connectors..and plugged them back in . made sure the brush spade connector was tight..started it and its charging..by the way I have 49 ohms on rotor..so thats good. THANKS FOR YOUR VIDEOS.
We are sorry to hear this. We highly recommend performing the other tests in this procedure to help identify the root of the problem. When that is completed, please give us a call at 1-877-338-0999 or email support@cpeauto.com. Thank you.
Sorry about that. If you require assistance performing this procedure, please give us a call at 1-877-338-0999 or email support@cpeauto.com. Thank you.
Thanks for these videos, you are the only power equipment company that offers this type of support to your customers.
We're happy to hear!
I'm telling you. Nice Video anyway
Thank you. This video was easy for me to follow. I discovered my friend’s stator coil was fried from letting a friend borrow it and let him “run a sump pump” (that’s a lie it was backfed by the grid obviously). The key here was measuring for voltage coming from the plug into the AVR block. There was no voltage! I realized then the stator may be damaged, and removed the AVR to discover extensive stator and rotor damage and burning!
I have seen about 50 videos, but this is the shortest and most accurate on this topic. Thank you very much for sharing
Glad it was helpful!
You the best explain troubleshooting produre. Thanks you the best ...
Thanks for the video it really helps me alot my generator is bringing power after watching your video doing the same test found out one of the brushes is eating ❤❤❤❤❤
Happy to help!
Thanks once again
Your videos are awesome. I have 2 champion generators. I am testing my model #100165, but do you know why does it has 4 wires out of the stator instead of 3 lioe my 10 starting watt does? It has a black, red and 2 of the blue wires. The blue connect together though.
Hi. My 2 year old generator from TSC was hooked up with the red wire from the AVR going to the right side prong on the brush, which is the outer i believe. Is that the correct side? I read that plugging backwards will fry the small circuits in the AVR. My unit is a 10k watt starting.
Hello. Please email us pictures of said wire to support@cpeauto.com, so we can verify this. Thank you.
Hi. When testing the Exciter field, if the voltage is in the good range between 4-8 volts AC, what else could be the issue besides the AVR? Could it be a bad circuit breaker? I am only getting 23 volts AC to the circuit breaker line side, and load side. But when I test the circuit breaker while removed from the generator, there is no continuity when switched on for the positive to positive terminal. The negative to negative has full continuity. Edit. When testing the circuit breaker again, now the positive has continuity. Huh. Maybe just a bad voltage regulator? I have champion power generator, model #201035, 10k watt max starting. Which AVR do I order if this is the case? Thank you. Your video makes me stay with getting champion. No one else, not one manufacturer I see helps their customers like you. My generator is only 1 year old from tractor supply. Please help.
We are sorry to hear this. If the voltage range is reading between four & eight volts, then it's the AVR that would need replacing. If you are within the generator's three-year warranty, please give us a call at 1-877-338-0999 or email support@cpeauto.com. Make sure to have the sales receipt handy. If out of warranty, the AVR is item 75 on page five in the owner's manual: www.championpowerequipment.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/201035-EPL-English-all.pdf
@@ChampionPowerEquipmentHQ is the outer slip ring supposed to have the white lead, and the inner slip ring have the red? When connected that way, it gets the 38v you do in the test, which is above the 15v required you said. My generator has someone place them on the opposite ways. They put red on the inner ring on the white lead, and outer on the red lead. Which way is correct? And would that destroy the AVR? Possibly fry it? Thank you.
My brush test was above was like 40v and my stator test was between 4-8v.
White wire connector on brushes is a bit burnt and black.
AVR need replacing? My lights in the house are flickering when big loads come on and off and generally fluttering a little bit all the time.
The brushes & AVR may need replacing. Please email us at support@cpeauto.com with the results of each test, so we can confirm what the culprit is. Thank you!
Got sorted with your love chat. AVR and Brushes are in the mail. Thanks!
Mine did exactly what yours is..I used 600 grit emery cloth and cleaned the rings that the brushes rub against..after i did that the brushes didnt get hot.and the generator no longer flashed ( pulsed) lights when loaded..
I replaced the AVR and brushes with newly supplied ones from champion. It’s still doing the same thing. 🤷🏼♂️
I have been teaching myself small engine work for almost 3 years. I am currently restoring my second generator. This seems to be an excellent training video except for one detail which to me makes no sense.
From 2:07 to 2:40 the Exciter Field is being tested. The narrator states that the voltage SHOULD be between 4 and 8V AC, but then immediately states if this IS the case the AVR needs to be replaced. Those two statements on their face seem contradictory (because of the word "should", which implies correct or acceptable). I suspect the explanation could be written more clearly and it ought to read thus - The voltage WILL read between 4 and 8 if the AVR IS FAULTY and DOES need to be replaced. If the voltage is OUTSIDE those parameters then the stator will need to be replaced.
Do I understand that correctly?
Thank you very much for this video - it has increased my knowledge in this area greatly! I will be referring to the links provided as well as your RUclips channel for more knowledge.
We will be sure to review this. Thank you for your feedback!
That is correct...If the voltage in reading as indicated, the exciter field is working properly and the avr is the source of the problem.
Interesting. My rotor is reading approx 900 ohms across the slip rings - any idea where to go from here? Thanks
We're sorry to hear this! At your earliest convenience, please give us a call at 1-877-338-0999 or email us at support@cpeauto.com. 👍
@@ChampionPowerEquipmentHQ hi guys - I replace the AVR and brushes and now the generator works perfectly. I think the brushes were ok, I just replaced them as one was shorter than the other.
I think the main problem was a blown AVR. All good now :)
Hi. My generator show nominal voltage between 220-240v. But when i plug in an equipment, my equipment show sign like it has low voltage. Can u explain why?
We are sorry to hear this. Please perform the electrical output testing procedure & call 1-877-338-0999 or email support@cpeauto.com with the results. This will help us verify the issue completely. help.championpowerequipment.com/article/YRqK59KpFU-electrical-output-testing-procedure
I have spark on the white wire and Intelligauge shows 120V, but only getting 79V to the plug. Any Ideas? Thanks
We are sorry to hear this. At your earliest convenience, please give us a call at 1-877-338-0999 or email us at support@cpeauto.com. Thank you.
Where can I buy a Champion 4500 generator rotor?????
To place an order for a new rotor, please give us a call at 1-877-338-0999 or visit our online parts store: shop.championpowerequipment.com/en-us/
I have a 100165 and I get 250K ohms at slip rings. This means the rotor is bad?
We are sorry to hear that. We will need to verify your ohms reading because 250k is extremely high. We will also need you to provide the remaining results, so we can ensure that only the rotor is bad. Before concluding that the issue lies with the rotor, please call us at 1-877-338-0999 or email your results to support@cpeauto.com. This will allow us to assess your unit more accurately. Thank you for your patience.
Mine shows 1 when connecting to the copper rings, am I doing something wrong ?
At your earliest convenience, please email us a photo showing one to the copper to support@cpeauto.com, so we may help to verify if there are any issues. 🙂
So what do you do when all of theses tests check out fine but your still not putting out power?
We would then need to have an authorized repair center do a more internal diagnosis of the machine to pinpoint the likely cause. 👍🏽
You need to 'FLASH' (re magnetize the unit). When they sit for a period of time they lose their magnetic charge. Google the process, it will show the steps you need to take. Very simple process, only takes a couple of minutes.
@ChampionPowerEquipmentHQ sad thing is is my generator is only about 18 months old with maybe 50 hours on it. It's of course still under warranty and northern tool the people that your people sent me to have had my generator for 4 months and won't fix the piece of shit
I have spark at the brushes but no ac output from generator..
We are sorry to hear this. We recommend next testing the rotor. For further assistance, please give us a call at 1-877-338-0999 or email us at support@cpeauto.com. Thank you.
@@ChampionPowerEquipmentHQ I found the problem.. corrosion / compromised brush lead in wire was heated and dropped voltage possibly. I also unplugged the harness from avr and sprayed wd-40 in connectors..and plugged them back in . made sure the brush spade connector was tight..started it and its charging..by the way I have 49 ohms on rotor..so thats good. THANKS FOR YOUR VIDEOS.
Sir..i changer avr but still no power..
We are sorry to hear this. We highly recommend performing the other tests in this procedure to help identify the root of the problem. When that is completed, please give us a call at 1-877-338-0999 or email support@cpeauto.com. Thank you.
A very good video. However showing 38 v on the 13v test doesn’t help
Sorry about that. If you require assistance performing this procedure, please give us a call at 1-877-338-0999 or email support@cpeauto.com. Thank you.
They show 38v. Under 15v is bad. So 38v is good. Mine is 43v.