Be sure to Subscribe and Hit the Bell so you won't miss my upcoming video on installing a 30A generator connection to a home. And the video after that we'll be installing and testing a battery power station with an automatic transfer switch. Great stuff coming up my friends. Thanks so much for being here and helping me hit that 200k subscriber count by the end of the summer. YOU GUYS are Awesome..
@@iancameron198 It depends on the amperage not the voltage. The most common size of portable generator connection is 30A which would require 10 gauge wire. Some people may have a larger generator with a 50A feed which would require 8 gauge or possibly 6 gauge depending on the wire insulation.
Great video! One extra thing we do: During a multiple day outage, we shut down the generator when we go to sleep. The fridge does not get opened, and we have flashlights if we need to get up before dawn for any reason. Saves fuel, and I feel better not leaving generator running unattended.
I shut mine off at night, IF, it’s not freezing out (New Hampshire winter outages are a thing) and I don’t need my furnace running. Otherwise it runs throughout the night which keeps me on edge a bit so I don’t tend to sleep as well.
They are not cheap, but I have a 2000 W portable power station. It will easy run the refrigerator and a few other things so you don’t have to run the generator continuously. It works great in conjunction with a generator for long power outages. Run the generator when it needs to be charged.
@@jrhackman7414 I just installed an 6000w portable power station with a automatic transfer switch to supply 12 circuits in my home. It also works as a UPS for clean power when utility power is on. Look for that video next week.
This has to be one of the best safety briefing videos on RUclips today! I'm a retired military power production technician and have MANY years of experience and I will be sharing this video as part of my training program! Thanks for this excellent video!
There are some really good electrical channels out there but I really think yours is the best and I mean no disrespect to the others. Where you really really excel is CLARITY AND EFFICIENCY of presentation. I can tell you really plan out and rehearse what you are going to present and us viewers really benefit from your hard work and experience.
Wow, thank you so much. I do put a lot of work into every video but I never get tired of hearing wonderful comments like yours. So happy to have you onboard.
I added color dots to my interlocked panel so people know which breakers to use while on gen power. Red dot breakers stay off for being higher than the generator capacity to run. Yellow dots are 2 pole breakers than can be turned on but only 1 at a time like the water heater or kitchen stove. Green dots are all the single pole breakers needed during an outage. I made a step by step video too. Makes it easy for my family to understand when I'm not home to switch everything over.
I've never had a problem when it comes to "Back Feeding" Buildings.... You just ALWAYS have to MAKE POSITIVELY SURE that your MAIN BREAKERS are OFF!... And I know that it's a practice that is "Frowned Upon", but sometimes "Ya gotta do what ya gotta do"..... Good Video!
Really great tips. One problem. When the power goes out half the country thinks it time to get free stuff at your local store and your neighbors house. Having the generator halfway out in your driveway. It's not going to be there long. Tip # 8. Put 50 chains on it and chain it to a tree or a pickup truck.
Weird. Nobody steals generators from your driveway here in Vermont, New Hampshire or Maine. Maybe because all three states have Constitutional Carry gun laws, and most homes have at least one gun, you know… for bears and such.
I have been using a Champion 7000w [9000w start up] for about 10 years now. I paid $1,000 for an isolation circuit and 30amp plug in. My mom, passed now, had a Generac. Both systems work great. If I lived in a suburban or urban area I would probably have the Generac, just because of the maintenance system they incorporate. [Every month, at a time you choose, the generator self-isolates and starts up, runs a maintenance check, reports any issue to the service department, then shuts down and reengages the home to the Public Power Grid]. Pretty sweet for peace of mind, and it starts automatically in a power outage. I was happy mom had that. Me, I do not live where a Generac Service tech is going to come running. So, a multi-fuel generator with remote start is my answer. [I paid $570.00 for my generator at Costco] It has served us well for many years. [ps...I also bought another brand new Champion, as a back up in case this one fails]. Pretty cheap insurance, cost me about $2,000 TOTAL for iso-circuits and two Generators.
I picked up a Predator 3500 Quiet generator at Harbor Freight. $800.00 Took it to Houston 2 weeks ago the day after Hurricane Beryl hit to my brother. He is a mechanical engineer and gave me specific equipment to buy. He had his living room colder than my hotel room. His precious generator was dying and not putting out as well. Now he is gonna repair his old one and keep both for next hurricane. Btw, I compared the quietness of his new generator to his neighbors generator. It is like night and day difference.
Great tips! I especially like that you focused on back feeding outlets & killer cords. I'm a power lineman & we find most generators are hooked up correctly. However a few have been improperly hooked up. When we enter a neighborhood during a power outage we always check our equipment with our test equipment anyway. Once we found a back feeding generator feeding a neighborhood & the wires on the ground were energized to 13,000 volts. People were walking amongst the wires & had no idea they were "HOT". I have a portable generator. I have the best of the best. Honda EU 7000is. I had a fabricator build a stainless steel enclosure Hiltied to a concrete poured in place pad with a ground rod. The enclosure is vented on two sides with a hinged lid. I had an electrician wire mine up with an interlock, hard wired remote start & trickle charger. I'm often at work already so I made it simple for my wife to start it when I'm not home. That way she can feel safe at home. Safety is paramount in my house. I have a 6 gallon auxiliary fuel tank that I can hook up for extended run times. I add my fuel to the auxiliary when the generator is running. The genny has fuel injection so there is nothing to prime. I get 42 hours of run time before I need to totally refuel. All together I'm in at $14,000. You can't put a price on safety. The money spent is like having an insurance policy you hope you never need it? But if I do? It's always ready. I look forward to your other videos! Great content!
Wow. Sounds like a great setup. I need to do something like that to make things easier. Safety is number one for sure. My father and brother in-law both worked for the power company as lineman. Im retired now but I worked as an electrician and then an electrical engineer my whole career.
@@BackyardMaine That’s awesome that your family is involved in the power industry! I applaud you & your family for the dedication & strong work ethic to succeed. I’m sure you have heard it many times before. Not many people can do our jobs. The long hours of commitment & the family that backs us up. I had help from the substation electricians at work. I was getting ready to pull the trigger on a more comprehensive set up & they stopped me. I purposely bought our home on a backbone. So we hardly ever lose power. We are on a loop scheme so in the event we lose the feed from one substation. Power can be restored quickly through reclosures in a manner of minutes. No lineman or electricians are involved. Unless the wire burns down in front of my house? We almost always stay on. In the unlikely event we lose both feeds do we lose power all together. That’s where the back up power comes into play at our house. As you know the last persons you want to be calling you at work is your family. I made my set up “lineman proof”. My wife can flip a few switches & push one button & power is restored quickly at our house. The only time I get a call is to check on how I’m doing after being at work for more than 24 hours. It’s peace of mind for me. You can’t put a price on that? Again thanks for the great tutorial & thank your father & brother in-law for being lineman .
Holy cow! $14k? I spent a bit over $10k and have 22kw Cummins whole house generator hooked up to my home LP tanks. I’m a roof contractor and have to be up and connected when hurricanes hit.
@@3fsw3 What's not discussed is I live an ASSociation. They won't allow me a propane tank. If I had natural gas? It would be a home run. I looked at a diesel powered water cooled stand by generator with a 300 gallon belly tank. The ASSociation only took exception that it was huge. I would have to have it surrounded in tall enough bushes on all sides so my neighbors wouldn't have to see it? I got estimates with a vinyl fence etc. I was looking at $27 K for that. My coworkers thought that was crazy money? Even though I was ready to pull the trigger on that. They suggested that I go with a roll out. I had a fabricator build me a little house for it on a concrete pad with a ground grid. I specified 306 stainless steel with a hinged top & hasp to lock it. The box & other hardware came to $2700 cash. The genny was $3700 (Honda EU 7000is). Electrician to wire it up with a wired stop/stop in our basement. Duplex outlet for the trickle charger. Low voltage cord for the start/stop. Wiring into SS house with drip loops. All above code. (Mind you this is a unique set up). Add to that every accessory made for that genny, service manuals. 15-5 gallon Jerry jugs. 1 HMC 30 gallon fuel Dolly. Grounded rolling steel rack for the fuel jugs. Etc, Etc,Etc. Hence the high number.
@@johnclyne6350 I couldn’t lived with an HOA. Sorry to hear that. Those big generators do run on natural gas too. You can also bury LP or natural gas tanks. Keep on truckin✊🏽
your procedure is good, however whenever shutting down the generator, I prefer to turn off the load and let the generator run a few minutes longer to cool down before turning it off. I do this when running under high load conditions.
That suicide cord, my dad has used that method for over 40 years with no issue. We have main throw where it comes in the house and one at the panel box. We also flip off breakers we dont use. Air conditioner, hot water heater, and a few others. But you did make some very good safety points.
Whenever I need to run a portable generator, I'll take a box fan, plug it into the generator and set it right near the generator blowing fresh air directly on the engine. It really helps to dissipate the heat and it should prolong the life of the engine. And of course like you said, this would not be done in the rain.
Hey, I've done this, too! I could actually touch the engine this way. Was a hot/warm at best! I thought as well it must make the engine last longer... I like the way you think! 😉
@Stasiek_Zabojca I recommend using a turbine fan if you have one. I tried a smaller fan, and the generator engine ran hotter than with a more powerful fan blowing on it. But I'm sure anything is better than nothing. We get a lot of still, hot days here in Texas 😆
I think you need to think about this. By adding the fan, you put more load on the generator. I’m sure the additional load is small, but it still requires the generator to produce more power. More power produces more internal heat. Just a thought.
@carolynraffl8271 I see what you're saying, but that's a really small load to run a fan. There will be a very slight increase in heat, but not even close enough to counter the cooling effect of running the fan. Like I said before, I was able to place my hand on the engine while it was running and not be burned with the fan going. I couldn't do the same thing without the fan. Seems to me to be enough evidence to support using a fan. But I also think it has to be a decent fan that can actually move some air. Little fans won't cut it...
I just moved from a country where I never needed generators for home use, but now I’m in Florida and just bought one for the coming hurricane season. So happy to find your channel in here and I’ll be on the looking! TY!
You can backfeed circuits safely if you follow procedures. Use the gfci outlets on the generator, shut the main breaker on your panel, don't handle live extension cord.
"THANK YOU" very much! I just purchased my first generator. So I thought I'd better educate myself before using it. Your video is a big help and blessing. It saves lives!
Great video John - glad you covered the "refueling" issue as well, since I'm sure many people hate to disrupt the generator power in the middle of using it, but definitely a hazard if you don't. I'd also add that it is wise to write down the step-by-step procedures in a clear fashion and post by the panel - not only for yourself (could be years in between uses, or at least months) - but also for other maybe less-technical members of the family if you are not around to perform the switchover!
Thank you and Great Point. Even with my decades of experience I still have a procedure at the panel. I have actually written them for friends and family as well. Thanks so much for you comment.
I also suggest using a (D)battery fuel transfer stick pump to avoid spills (we have all fought those fill spouts) . Places like Harbor Freight have them for under $15
Great tips! I boxed our portable generator with plywood left adequate ventilation so I can run it in the rain away from the house. I back feed to a 50 Amp outlet box.
My system is 18 years old. Honda 4500, I think I have that suicide setup! Male into the generator, and male into a box on the wall. It was installed in 2005. I have used it many times with storms in Florida. I bet it's not code anymore! Might be time to have an electrician take a look. Just came across you channel, love it! Thanks, Rick.
Youll be fine IF you are cognizant that those plug ends are hot and will fry you.... I did a 50amp 240 suicide setup. I use the same start up shut down sequence he did so, that it isnt hot, but i still treat the ends though they are hot at all times.
@@chuckr1951 and if you run out in front of traffic on I-75 you'll get hit by a car!!! Thank you Captain Obvious!!! Furthermore you are not bypassing any breakers. But hey, great way to tell everyone you have no idea how a circuit panel works!! LoL
good advice,but as you mentioned yourself some things can be a challenge.If one is in the middle of a hurricane, to run a generator in dry "conditions"would require a sturdy,dedicated structure,meant for the generator only use.This requires extra real estate area,building permit and construction of it with possible inspection.Anything can be done provided one pumps enough money into the enterprise,which ,alas is not the case for a lot of people
Thanks for the video and all the solid tips. I think it's really important for everyone to be familiar with them and review them regularly. They are all common sense, but many times, if you are setting up a generator, you might be in severe weather, or under stress and in a rush. That's when mistakes can happen even to the best of us. Regarding keeping the generator away from the house, I can't stress this enough. Especially in the wintertime when it is cold outside and warm inside, your house will be drawing air from outside. If you have a very modern house that is well sealed, you might have less of an issue, but many older homes are not sealed as well. I witnessed this first hand when a neighbor had a grill going with a heavy scent of unburned fuel as they fired it up on a very cool fall day. Even though it was over 30 feet away, in my older and leaky house, the heated air inside my house created a draft, and pulled in the fumes from the neighbor's grill through tiny leaks around the windows and doors, and it literally smelled like a fire was in the house. So be sure to keep generators and other combustion well away from your home, and particularly in the winter.
All very good information here. As a volunteer fire fighter I have seen homes set on fire for placing the exhaust too close to combustibles. Also wind direction and exhaust can cause CO issues. I have seen generators in front of open garage doors with a slight breeze pushing the exhaust back into the open doors charging the house with CO.
While this video is very helpful and make some really good talking points its amazing that you left out an extremely important safety point. You're only allowed to have the neutral and ground bonded at the main disconnect of your home.If you simply power your home with a bonded generator your running the risk of electrical shock.Anytime you power your home with a generator you should always make sure your generator is UNBONDED.Its a simple process to add a switch to the generator so you can go back and forth between bonded and unbonded.Tons of videos on here explaining in more detail and how to instructions to accomplish this.Not trying to criticize your video because like I said it make great and valid points.Just thought your viewers might also like to understand the difference between using a bonded vs unbonded generator.All the best.
There is a lot of confusion and misunderstand around grounding and bonding especially with generators. I have a dedicated video planned to cover this subject completely. Stay tuned.
Great videos!! Thanks for reminding me to pull out my generator. Just the other day I noticed it underneath its cover with some stuff piled on top. And thought, I need to start it and change her oil!! On my honey-do list for today!! Thanks BM…
I know the feeling and that generator is often out of sight and out of mind until you need it right.. I just made another video covering maintenance. It called 7 Tips to help Avoid Killing your Generator. ruclips.net/video/Mwnm7PMzy64/видео.html
If your going through the trouble of adding a receptacle on the side of your panel, just also add a manual transfer switch. This passes code in case you sell your home, plus isolates your home from the grid when using Gen.
Excellent safety tips! Can you also talk about making sure when using a portable generator to properly back feed your home it should also be confirmed to have a floating neutral? Most portable generators are sold with bonded neutrals so they can be used safely in the more common application where users are plugging cords and appliances directly into the generator’s built-in 120 volt outlets. When that same generator will be used in the mode your video shows, the generator needs to be set up with an un-bonded neutral (floating neutral) so you do not have “objectionable” neutral load voltages being carried on the ground wire between the home and the generator.
The ground and neutral can only be bonded in one location. Since this is done on the home at the first disconnect you have two options when connecting a backup generator. Floating Neutral: There is no bond between neutral and ground at the generator. No need for a ground rod at the generator. You will connect the neutral to the neutral bus at the panel. Bonded Neutral: There is a bond between the neutral and the ground at the generator. Since we can only bond in one location you will need a transfer switch that switches the neutral along with the line wires. This meets the definition of a separately derived system since the bond will be isolated to the connection at the generator switching the home bond out of the system. In most cases you will be required to set a ground rod at the generator for this connection. Most bonded generators will offer and method to remove the bond. When using an un-bonded or floating neutral generator for something other than for home backup power a ground to neutral bond is required. They make grounding plugs that can be used for this purpose. It’s simply a plug with no cord that has a connection between the ground pin and neutral. I hope this helps.
Thanks for great information. I’m hoping to buy a good used generator to keep our refrigerator running during a blackout. Gave me a good sfew starting points.
Thank you so much for your educational videos. I am from EU, where some differences exist and I am not familiar with your type of generator feed-braker, so I have the following questions: When you switch over to the generator, do ground and neutral wires remain interconnected via the first point of disconnect panel bond, or not? How generators can cope with that? Our generators have only three pole terminal sockets, ground and two power contacts. None is marked as phase or neutral, and you can reverse connect them normally. Thank you.
Looking forward to your assessment of the Anker Solix. Recently, we got rid of Honda gasoline powered generator due to gasoline storage issues (going bad over time). Replaced it with an 2 Anker Solix units and 5 200 W solar panels. We monthly decharge and recharge the batteries on an alternating schedule. So far, very happy with setup. Note, it's for emergency use only, not as a power source replacement.
When running mine, I will always use one of the spare 120v recepticles and plug in a high velocity fan, so it constantly blows air over the generator and forces any air to pass over the exhaust blowing it well clear and any hazards of CO coming anywhere near the house.. Plus it will help keep the generator from overheating.
Totally agree about running inside , that said I have a storage where my generator is in with the hookup it’s 75 feet away from my home and the cable is underground. I never had a problem in 15 years. Got to use common sense.
Surprisingly my science teacher actually taught us to never backfeed or use an electric suicide cord. It is common sense not to use one but it really depends on who you're talking to!
You mentioned at the end probably the best advice but didn't cover it and that would be writing yourself a switching procedure to prevent mistakes,proper connection and disconnection is probably the most important thing you can do to be safe. Power outages can be chaotic and a good procedure can prevent slip ups.
I ordered the lock out and 30 amp breaker specifically for my panel brand. Not spending a whole day doing this, but broke it up over a couple days. Total time was about six hours. Installed the back feed 30amp breaker per instructions with the kit. Had to modify the heigth an 1/8th inch so the breaker would only function when lockout bracket cleared the switch completely. This required adding nylon #10 flat washers or spacers between the panel cover and the underside lockout plate. Then, located the inlet, drilled the proper hole into basement, verifying no wall outlets or visually wires in that area, pushed the #10-4 so cable through, wired the inlet insuring every wire was bound and no bare wire were exposed, mounted the inlet box, sealed all around with bath silicone caulk. Checked the X,(black) Y,(red) W(white neutral) and G (ground) continuity end to end of cable to inlet. Back at the panel, TURN OFF MAIN BREAKER, AND ALL BRANCH BREAKERS FOR SAFETY !!!! Push the cable through an appropriate 3/4 " knock out and retention clamp, adjusted length for future service if needed, removed the 30amp breaker. Carefully,, strip cable jacket without nicking the colored wire insulation to allow each colored wire to reach it's destination. Connected Green ground to the ground buss bar, white to the neutral bar, Red, and Black to the removed breaker, assuring no exposed copper wire, torque the binder screws well, usually labelled on breaker. Re install breaker to main buss position, replace the panel cover, paying attention to lockout position as you position cover over all the breaker switches. Test motion of Generator breaker using the lockout kit..if it turns on and off with the main off, now with Generator breaker off, turn on main breaker, does the lockout block GENERATOR switch from moving? If yes, the system is installed correctly and branch circuits can be turned back on. My home has a single grounding rod upgrade with in 4 feet. My panel is also bonded to the ground buss, so no no extra ground wire was needed from generator to the rod. That was it. Tested hook up, and thumbs up. Now to somehow afford one of those fancy generator storm tents that clamps to the open frame bars..!!
My generator runs quite nicely in my shed. No issues with rain. I keep the 4 x 6' door wide open. I have a sealed, 3" RV exhaust vent that goes through the roof of the shed to a height of 12 feet. The roof and shed are highly ventilated. Just in case, I have 3 CO monitors in the shed. Never had a problem.
Great vid. But i also see a lot of vids where people say the generators get stolen a lot. So when it's safely positioned away from your home, it might get stolen. How to fix that?
Would really like to know your thoughts on a propane generator vs the gasoline generator. My thought is the propane does not go bad like gasoline stored in a storage container after a long period of time. I have lived in Iowa and Arizona and both utility companies have provided reliable power so the need of portable generator power has been minimal. Thanks for sharing some valuable tips on generator safety.
I have never owned a propane powered generator but I do certainly like the idea. I think they are safer, and you can probably get through most outages without needing to fill the tank. I also like the idea of inverter generators which use less fuel and provide much cleaner power allowing you to confidently use your computers and other electronic devices.
Propane is ok and convenient, but you I don't think you'll get any more run time from a 20 lb. propane bottle than 5 gallons of gas. You'll need multiple 20 lb. propane bottles for a longer term outage. A larger 100 lb. propane bottle can be hard to handle. On the other hand, if you already use propane at your house, have a connection piped in for long term use.
Adding a gas preservative like Stabil or Startron will allow you To keep gas long term. Startron Works for two years. I usually Put my generator gas in my car After one year and start over With fresh gas.
@@sparkygreen6298just don't have any appliances turned on, or if you have no control of whether they're on or off, unplug them or open up the breaker for them before starting, and turn the appliances off or unplug them before shutting the generator down.
Excellent video. It is extremely rare that I loose power where I live but I have a portable generator for these rare occasions. Seeing that years can go by between generator needs, it’s incredibly helpful to be reminded of safest best practices. My set up is very similar to yours except I have a cover that sheds rain and snow off the generator keeping it dry and safe. I also have a heavy duty cable lock which allows me to secure the generator to my deck so it cannot be liberated from my property by desperate sticky fingers in a crisis. Thank you so much for the refresher! 👍
It is not hard to make a "carport" for your generator. Basically a big scrap piece of plywood, with 2x4s for legs. Just make it big enough that the legs and the plywood sheet are well away from the generator/hot exhaust, and make one side lower than the other by an inch or two so it sheds water easily. Bonus points if you paint or seal it, but you really don't need to given that it only sits out in the weather for a day or two normally. If it is very windy I put a cinder block on top of it. If you want to get fancy, put the legs on hinges. Or just screw the legs to the top and remove the screws when you need to store it. Your battery powered drill will still work when the power is out so no big deal to reassemble it.
All of the things that you said are true and correct But when it's an instance of a power grid down I'm sorry I'm just gonna shut the main breaker off and back feed through my shed
I will add myself to the list of people interested in more details on grounding. I have seen advice to use ground rods and not to use ground rods. This also interacts with locating the generator away from standing water and the home. I hope RUclips alerts me if you post such a video since I would be very interested.
For an interlocked backfeed breaker setup, neutral is not switched. This means you must use a floating neutral generator (must not bond neutral and ground on the generator). No additional ground rod is needed; it is grounded at the service entrance. If you have a transfer switch with switching neutrals, you need to set up the generator as if it’s another service. It is called “separately derived system” and you will need to add a separate grounding source & bond it with the neutral at the generator.
@@toukoaozaki You are correct but many don't understand what that all means. You and I do but not everyone. I plan to make a video showing the difference and the reasoning behind the rules.
Excellent video. I went one step further by attaching, to the panel, a very detailed, simple set of instructions to follow in case I am not home when the generator is needed. I also had a training session for everybody who "may" have to use the generator. But one question I have: I made a device that is mounted on the distribution panel that will absolutely prevent both street power and generator power to energize the distribution panel at the same time. Since the device is not UL approved, is it legal???
As long as you have a mechanical device that prevent the generator breaker and the main from being turned on at the same time I think you're fine. The one I bought for my panel is not uL listed.
Thank you for this video. Question that I did not see answered or I missed it. If someone back feeds their generator through the dryer outlet that powers the electrical circuit box, if you throw the main breaker in the electrical box doesn't that prevent the electric, produced by the generator, from going to the telephone pole?
It does but the issue there is we're depending on a person to always do things correctly. All of us humans make mistakes on occasion so it's best to have a mechanical device to prevent a mistake from being made. Especially one that could put other peoples lives at risk. Thats why back feeding a dryer receptacle is illegal.
I have one of those collars installed on the power meter where I can plug in the female end of the cord. The collar and cord was around 1500 bucks installed. It doesn’t require a transfer switch and won’t back feed the grid so no danger to linemen working. It has lights that let you know when the power is back on. I’ve used it many times and it works great. Want a whole home generator one day.
Great video, John! Clear and on-the-point(s). I hope you'll make a similar video that addresses those (the majority, I think) who don't connect their gens to breaker panels, but simply use extension cords to power individual appliances during outages. -- Old Matt
@@BackyardMaine If you are interested on the thoughts I have come up with on this matter: 1. Focus on small 120V inverter based propane generators - Propane lasts forever, so no worries about it going bad. Burns cleaner, so less crudding up of your generator. Something like a TT-30 or NEMA L5-30 extension cord can usually power the basics and even a 120V window or portable air conditioner. (Having a cool room to go to in a summer time power outage is a lot better than it is just sizzling anywhere you go inside. Even on normal days, it can save a lot of power to have the room you spend the most time in cooler than the other rooms that you then let float a little high so that say you whole home HVAC is not cranking away so hard at running up your power bill.) 2. For the kitchen in particular, have some sort of battery - inverter setup that can be charged off of the generator. The problem I have hit with my small generator testing is most everything in the kitchen, at least my kitchen, hard starts / suddenly draws a big load. This doesn't work out too well with small generators that have a relatively low amount of spinning mass to absorb those hits until the engine can ramp up. Also for piece of mind, it is much nicer to have the fridge powered all the time while it is a big gas guzzler to run the generator all the time. Granted most fridges should be able to make it up to 10 hours before things thaw out and start expiring, I think most would be more comfortable with a constant or near constant supply and especially not have to micromanage power to their fridge and hope they don't screw up and then have to dump a bunch of food into the trash. If the generator is hooked up to automatically charge the battery when it is running, maybe you just run the generator a handful of hours throughout the day on ECO mode (as the charger will more or less draw constant power) or at least shut it off overnight to save fuel and make less noise. Plus if it is still super stormy outside as you mention weather in this video, you may only be able to use the battery - inverter setup at first until the storm passes. (Maybe if it is not too bad out, you put a table over the inverter-generator as these fully enclosed units just suck in air in the front and spit out exhaust and hot cooling air out the back.) Then you may have a long power outage time as cleanup happens after the storm that you run the generator in and charge this back up. Personally, I am a bit of a fan of having separate components for inverter, battery, and charger so you can customize each component to your needs on the cheap, but all in one boxes are also common these days as you briefly mention in this video. 3. There are some ways to do extension cords right and ways to make for a dangerous setup. For one, most of these small inverter generators are floating neutral. It is important to setup a ground-neutral bond. I did the "easy button" of building a TT-30 adapter cable only for use with the generator that has this ground-neutral bond. Then I have a separate long TT-30 extension cord to pull into the house so the generator can be setup out in the open. In case I want to use this long extension cord for something besides the generator, it is still in its stock configuration and so will be fine. Only the specially built adapter cable can only be used with the generator. I have found without this ground-neutral bond, inverter generator power can become 'dirty' and cause my electronics to glitch up. So in addition to safety, it is actually rather important for your electronics to function properly on generator power. The UPSes I use also complain if the bond is missing as now their surge protection function cannot work. With a generator backup solution like this, you have to have a UPS capable of riding through a power outage long enough for you to get the generator power coming into the house and to the electronics or else they will lose power. In real power outages, my main UPS has reported ~30% of its battery capacity used by the time I got it onto generator power when I have been home during the outage. Another thing that I did was to build a special adapter cable to hook generator ground into house ground using lighted plugs so I can see when generator power is present and I can see when house power comes back. There is only a ground wire going between ground prongs, so power cannot pass, it is NOT a suicide cable without these additional wires. This way everything, including all of my electronics that often have conducting copper Ethernet cables running between them are tied to the same ground voltage reference potential. I have noticed with analog audio cables running between devices that without this common ground, it will pickup a significant electronic hum for my speaker output. So yeah, a good common ground can help things out right away with your audio equipment if you still have analog stuff in the loop. In the worst case scenario, it will prevent static discharge between devices, which with electronics can lead to equipment that no longer works.
Thanks for your safety tips Always good to review safety tips periodically to keep fresh in mind One thing to add - is to have a fire extinguisher (or 2) nearby Thanks again Safety First - be safe
I setup my portable generator in my detached two car garage which is over thirty feet away from my house. It feeds the panel through under ground PVC conduit. It has a remote start/stop fob. I installed an exhaust fan and fresh air intake. Plus run a fan to blow cooling air onto the generator while running. Also leave the garage door open slightly. And I do use carbon monoxide detectors inside the house. Have only used it in cold weather so the house doors and windows remain closed.
I spent more money and have a tri fuel portable generator and with more money have one of those plug in natural gas connections . I’d recommend people consider it although I realize outside city/urban areas it may not be an option. I think it’s so much safer from both not storing gasoline, having to refuel and also driving around trying to find more after a storm. If it’s so bad that natural gas is out we’re out of here but can run on a propane tank /gasoline if needed
Good video....I would only add to Only use terms OFF and ON , instead of Open and Close when referring to the breakers, especially the one installed for the generator.
I'm going to dedicate a video to generator grounding. There is a lot of confusion around that and many get it wrong. It depends on the bonding of the neutral at the generator and at the main panel. Is the generator a separately derived system or not. Stay tuned for a video on that subject.
Generators are sized by their kw rating. They will have a starting load and a running load rating. You will want to make sure the sum of your loads is well under the running load value. Also heat pumps will have inrush which needs to be accounted for as well. You should probably have an electrician help you select the proper size after evaluating you load requirements
We shut off airplane engines the same way by pulling the mixture to full lean prior to turning off the magnetos. Surprised I didnt do the same with ny generator. Thanks for the tip.
Hi! Great video. Just had a quick question I can’t seem to find an answer to online. When setting up an interlock kit to connect a generator to a home, are there special considerations to keep in mind if the home has solar so when the generator is supplying power to the house, it doesn’t negatively affect the solar panels? Or is simply turning off the main breaker sufficient to protect the solar system?
I haven't installed a lot of solar but I believe that on a grid tied system the inverters kick off when utility power has been lost. That is often a surprise for some people when they find out they still have no power on a sunny day when utility is out.
Back feeds are asking for trouble unless managed by a skilled electrician. All critical loads should be from a panel board supplied by a transfer switch. More expensive but much less risk
What about adding a power vent (from a hot water tank) mounted above where the engine exhaust is for draft and plumbing an exhaust stack out a garage window?
@3:40 the trash can with the name _Casella_ on it reminded me of Tony Casella in Maine, who owned a number of development properties. These are solid tips, John, and your videos make me miss living Downeast.
I have a question for you. When hooking up a portable generator to your home this way what do you about the floating neutral issue this creates? The neutral is grounded in the portable generator frame that has no earth ground to the generator.
When connected this way the generator needs a floating neutral. That means there is no bond between the neutral and ground at the generator. But when we connect a floating neutral generator to our home we complete the bond since it done at the service panel. The generator is grounded and bonded through the existing system. The neutral and ground bond can only happen in one location on our electrical system so if connecting a bonded neural generator we will need a transfer switch the switches the neutral along with the line wires. This is usually only done with whole house systems with automatic transfer switches
Actually no in most cases you do not want to ground your generator. I will explain this in detail in a video coming very soon. So many people get this wrong and it can be dangerous.
I working on the power station first which is out of order from what I said. I'll have that video up in a few days and up next will be the generator feed. Sorry for the delay.
We put the generator under an outdoor metal and glass patio table, away from the house and chairs (combustible) and use a chain or bike lock to keep it from walking off.
I watching your channel first just subscribed too. I love your content it's great to stay safe and be alive. Your detailed analysis is topnotch thanks for bringing these mistakes to light
Easy enough to put the generator under some high tent to prevent rain exposure. But I’m concerned about the cords exposure to the elements as well (rain in particular). Any suggestions?
Ok, all good stuff. But installation instructions on mine (virtually identical model to your generator shown, just different distributer name) specify in no uncertain terms to attach the generator itself to an exterior ground for safety as well. You should discuss that.
Yes some do but you do not want to connect it to a ground. Most manufacturers are removing that instruction. I have a video planned to cover this in detail. Remember a ground rod is lighting or surge protection and not a path for fault current. You can actually connect a hot wire to a ground rod and it will only draw a few amps and will not trip the breaker.
I have a Durostar ds4400e generator that makes 3500w. I plan to use it for the moment just to run my freezer and 2 fridges in case of an outage. Do you have any video content that covers grounding rods for backyard use?
Thanks for the video I have a question I just bought a Westinghouse 9500TFc I am going to get an electrician to hook up the box for 50 amp what size cord do I need and how long can I have this cord. Thanks
Yep, all comes down to common sense and smarts, the people that do not possess these qualities will always attempt things they shouldn't. This is why the world is full of Lawyers, doctors, hospitals and sadly, funeral homes.
I only have a 100A service box which all the breakers are taken. Is it possible to have an electrician hook up a 30A breaker interlock tied into a 30A breaker by removing several 15A breakers? Can the removed circuits from the 2x 15A be attached into the new 30A breaker or is a 50A circuit a possible choice for both the generator and the 15A supply? this is an old house (1964) and they didn't have need to supply so much then as we have now. Should have gone and become an electrician . lol...love your explanations and examples-well done!
You cannot connect 15A circuits to the 30A or 50A breaker because the wire and the devices would not be protected from overcurrent. There are ways to make room in a panel for the generator breaker. One way is to add a small sub panel. Usually a 12 circuit is nice because it will take the two circuits to clear a space for the generator breaker and two more circuits to clear the space for the sub panel breaker. It also leave room for future expansion. Another way is to combine some lighting circuits if possible. Most lighting is LED now and draws very little amperage so combining circuits is often an option. Your electrician can help you decide what the best option is depending on load.
The other mistake most people make is they think a $150 Harbor Freight generator that is meant to be used outdoors on a construction site will work to power their home with 100 foot extension cords.
I prefer a full fledged generator with a cutoff panel. I ran portable generators for years but now, everything is automated. Not cheap, but they are fantastic.
The electrician that installed my power connection put a manual lever on the outside of the house next to the connection, then wired it in the house and all the stuff for the generator is on the outside of the house also next to my meter for the power company. My electrician also did a walkthrough of the house and said all can run on it but with ac on can't run the eclectic dryer and the microwave if the ac is on, he showed me how to connect it and to use the generator. I connect my generator to the house, start it up, wait for the generator to warm up and move the selection from MAIN to AUX. I was shocked to see it next to the circuit panel but different code per state or the electrician and I don't know about all that that stuff. My electrician did agree with you because he said, it won't kill you to wait 15 mins vs trying to up gas in it right away. He also suggested to get a battier operated fuel transfer pump, it is for gas cans. Great Video, thumbs up!
Do you have a video explaining bonded neutral or floating neutral on a stand by generator? I have a friend that bought a new generator and hooked it up as he had been running the old one for 15 years. It caught surge protectors in his house on fire. I wonder if that could be caused by difference in neutral?
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Be sure to Subscribe and Hit the Bell so you won't miss my upcoming video on installing a 30A generator connection to a home. And the video after that we'll be installing and testing a battery power station with an automatic transfer switch. Great stuff coming up my friends. Thanks so much for being here and helping me hit that 200k subscriber count by the end of the summer. YOU GUYS are Awesome..
What gage wire you need for a 220 generator extension cord
@@iancameron198 It depends on the amperage not the voltage. The most common size of portable generator connection is 30A which would require 10 gauge wire. Some people may have a larger generator with a 50A feed which would require 8 gauge or possibly 6 gauge depending on the wire insulation.
Do you recommend a permanent standing generator? If so any manufacturers better than others? Thank you
❤
@@kevinmazur1519 If I was going to install a fixed whole home generator I would go with Kohler. They aren't cheep but you get what you pay for.
Great video! One extra thing we do: During a multiple day outage, we shut down the generator when we go to sleep. The fridge does not get opened, and we have flashlights if we need to get up before dawn for any reason. Saves fuel, and I feel better not leaving generator running unattended.
Great tip! I do the same thing.
I shut mine off at night, IF, it’s not freezing out (New Hampshire winter outages are a thing) and I don’t need my furnace running. Otherwise it runs throughout the night which keeps me on edge a bit so I don’t tend to sleep as well.
They are not cheap, but I have a 2000 W portable power station. It will easy run the refrigerator and a few other things so you don’t have to run the generator continuously. It works great in conjunction with a generator for long power outages. Run the generator when it needs to be charged.
@@jrhackman7414 I just installed an 6000w portable power station with a automatic transfer switch to supply 12 circuits in my home. It also works as a UPS for clean power when utility power is on. Look for that video next week.
Thanks
This has to be one of the best safety briefing videos on RUclips today! I'm a retired military power production technician and have MANY years of experience and I will be sharing this video as part of my training program! Thanks for this excellent video!
That's great to hear.. Thank you.
There are some really good electrical channels out there but I really think yours is the best and I mean no disrespect to the others. Where you really really excel is CLARITY AND EFFICIENCY of presentation. I can tell you really plan out and rehearse what you are going to present and us viewers really benefit from your hard work and experience.
Wow, thank you so much. I do put a lot of work into every video but I never get tired of hearing wonderful comments like yours. So happy to have you onboard.
Agree!
I added color dots to my interlocked panel so people know which breakers to use while on gen power. Red dot breakers stay off for being higher than the generator capacity to run. Yellow dots are 2 pole breakers than can be turned on but only 1 at a time like the water heater or kitchen stove. Green dots are all the single pole breakers needed during an outage. I made a step by step video too. Makes it easy for my family to understand when I'm not home to switch everything over.
Good plan my friend.
I have the same color code on
My service panel. I don't run my
Generator a lot and it helps me
Remember too😊
Please
Send your video on this
That’s great advice. Thanks amigo
I've never had a problem when it comes to "Back Feeding" Buildings.... You just ALWAYS have to MAKE POSITIVELY SURE that your MAIN BREAKERS are OFF!... And I know that it's a practice that is "Frowned Upon", but sometimes "Ya gotta do what ya gotta do".....
Good Video!
Exactly. If someone asks how to do this, they shouldn’t be doing this.
It's illegal in some areas. If fifty people do it, a good chance one or more will screw up.
Really great tips. One problem. When the power goes out half the country thinks it time to get free stuff at your local store and your neighbors house. Having the generator halfway out in your driveway. It's not going to be there long. Tip # 8. Put 50 chains on it and chain it to a tree or a pickup truck.
Weird. Nobody steals generators from your driveway here in Vermont, New Hampshire or Maine. Maybe because all three states have Constitutional Carry gun laws, and most homes have at least one gun, you know… for bears and such.
I have not had any issues like that here in Maine but I feel for you. Too many criminals around today.
It depends where you live we don't have that problem. Plus our 10,000 K Generac is very heavy to lift.
I have been using a Champion 7000w [9000w start up] for about 10 years now. I paid $1,000 for an isolation circuit and 30amp plug in. My mom, passed now, had a Generac. Both systems work great. If I lived in a suburban or urban area I would probably have the Generac, just because of the maintenance system they incorporate. [Every month, at a time you choose, the generator self-isolates and starts up, runs a maintenance check, reports any issue to the service department, then shuts down and reengages the home to the Public Power Grid]. Pretty sweet for peace of mind, and it starts automatically in a power outage.
I was happy mom had that.
Me, I do not live where a Generac Service tech is going to come running. So, a multi-fuel generator with remote start is my answer. [I paid $570.00 for my generator at Costco] It has served us well for many years. [ps...I also bought another brand new Champion, as a back up in case this one fails]. Pretty cheap insurance, cost me about $2,000 TOTAL for iso-circuits and two Generators.
I picked up a Predator 3500 Quiet generator at Harbor Freight. $800.00 Took it to Houston 2 weeks ago the day after Hurricane Beryl hit to my brother. He is a mechanical engineer and gave me specific equipment to buy. He had his living room colder than my hotel room. His precious generator was dying and not putting out as well. Now he is gonna repair his old one and keep both for next hurricane. Btw, I compared the quietness of his new generator to his neighbors generator. It is like night and day difference.
Great tips! I especially like that you focused on back feeding outlets & killer cords. I'm a power lineman & we find most generators are hooked up correctly. However a few have been improperly hooked up. When we enter a neighborhood during a power outage we always check our equipment with our test equipment anyway. Once we found a back feeding generator feeding a neighborhood & the wires on the ground were energized to 13,000 volts. People were walking amongst the wires & had no idea they were "HOT".
I have a portable generator. I have the best of the best. Honda EU 7000is. I had a fabricator build a stainless steel enclosure Hiltied to a concrete poured in place pad with a ground rod. The enclosure is vented on two sides with a hinged lid. I had an electrician wire mine up with an interlock, hard wired remote start & trickle charger.
I'm often at work already so I made it simple for my wife to start it when I'm not home. That way she can feel safe at home. Safety is paramount in my house.
I have a 6 gallon auxiliary fuel tank that I can hook up for extended run times. I add my fuel to the auxiliary when the generator is running. The genny has fuel injection so there is nothing to prime. I get 42 hours of run time before I need to totally refuel.
All together I'm in at $14,000. You can't put a price on safety. The money spent is like having an insurance policy you hope you never need it? But if I do? It's always ready.
I look forward to your other videos! Great content!
Wow. Sounds like a great setup. I need to do something like that to make things easier. Safety is number one for sure. My father and brother in-law both worked for the power company as lineman. Im retired now but I worked as an electrician and then an electrical engineer my whole career.
@@BackyardMaine That’s awesome that your family is involved in the power industry! I applaud you & your family for the dedication & strong work ethic to succeed. I’m sure you have heard it many times before. Not many people can do our jobs. The long hours of commitment & the family that backs us up.
I had help from the substation electricians at work. I was getting ready to pull the trigger on a more comprehensive set up & they stopped me. I purposely bought our home on a backbone. So we hardly ever lose power. We are on a loop scheme so in the event we lose the feed from one substation. Power can be restored quickly through reclosures in a manner of minutes. No lineman or electricians are involved. Unless the wire burns down in front of my house? We almost always stay on. In the unlikely event we lose both feeds do we lose power all together. That’s where the back up power comes into play at our house. As you know the last persons you want to be calling you at work is your family. I made my set up “lineman proof”. My wife can flip a few switches & push one button & power is restored quickly at our house. The only time I get a call is to check on how I’m doing after being at work for more than 24 hours. It’s peace of mind for me. You can’t put a price on that?
Again thanks for the great tutorial & thank your father & brother in-law for being lineman .
Holy cow! $14k?
I spent a bit over $10k and have 22kw Cummins whole house generator hooked up to my home LP tanks.
I’m a roof contractor and have to be up and connected when hurricanes hit.
@@3fsw3 What's not discussed is I live an ASSociation. They won't allow me a propane tank. If I had natural gas? It would be a home run. I looked at a diesel powered water cooled stand by generator with a 300 gallon belly tank.
The ASSociation only took exception that it was huge. I would have to have it surrounded in tall enough bushes on all sides so my neighbors wouldn't have to see it? I got estimates with a vinyl fence etc. I was looking at $27 K for that.
My coworkers thought that was crazy money? Even though I was ready to pull the trigger on that.
They suggested that I go with a roll out.
I had a fabricator build me a little house for it on a concrete pad with a ground grid. I specified 306 stainless steel with a hinged top & hasp to lock it. The box & other hardware came to $2700 cash. The genny was $3700 (Honda EU 7000is). Electrician to wire it up with a wired stop/stop in our basement. Duplex outlet for the trickle charger. Low voltage cord for the start/stop. Wiring into SS house with drip loops. All above code. (Mind you this is a unique set up).
Add to that every accessory made for that genny, service manuals. 15-5 gallon Jerry jugs.
1 HMC 30 gallon fuel Dolly. Grounded rolling steel rack for the fuel jugs. Etc, Etc,Etc.
Hence the high number.
@@johnclyne6350 I couldn’t lived with an HOA. Sorry to hear that. Those big generators do run on natural gas too. You can also bury LP or natural gas tanks. Keep on truckin✊🏽
your procedure is good, however whenever shutting down the generator, I prefer to turn off the load and let the generator run a few minutes longer to cool down before turning it off. I do this when running under high load conditions.
Same with vehicles
Which is usually recommended by the manufacturer... Great point...
That suicide cord, my dad has used that method for over 40 years with no issue. We have main throw where it comes in the house and one at the panel box. We also flip off breakers we dont use. Air conditioner, hot water heater, and a few others. But you did make some very good safety points.
They're still a bad idea for the reasons given in the video.
@@TomInGulfBreeze Been through 5 storms and never had a problem.
@@TomInGulfBreeze Part of the problem is not how it is done, but stupid people not using common sense.
Same. Never had a problem with my suicide plug.
Great just encouraged stupid people to think it's ok. It can be done. 98% of normal people don't understand how dangerous this is. Great job.
I always keep an extinguisher about 5 feet away or so when adding fuel to the generator. Thanks for sharing!
I just found this channel, and I am very happy that I did. Clear instruction on electric matters is not easy to find. Thank you!
Awesome, thank you! I have some interesting videos coming up. I hope you like them.
Whenever I need to run a portable generator, I'll take a box fan, plug it into the generator and set it right near the generator blowing fresh air directly on the engine. It really helps to dissipate the heat and it should prolong the life of the engine. And of course like you said, this would not be done in the rain.
Hey, I've done this, too! I could actually touch the engine this way. Was a hot/warm at best! I thought as well it must make the engine last longer... I like the way you think! 😉
That's kinda easy and clever!
@Stasiek_Zabojca I recommend using a turbine fan if you have one. I tried a smaller fan, and the generator engine ran hotter than with a more powerful fan blowing on it. But I'm sure anything is better than nothing. We get a lot of still, hot days here in Texas 😆
I think you need to think about this. By adding the fan, you put more load on the generator. I’m sure the additional load is small, but it still requires the generator to produce more power. More power produces more internal heat. Just a thought.
@carolynraffl8271 I see what you're saying, but that's a really small load to run a fan. There will be a very slight increase in heat, but not even close enough to counter the cooling effect of running the fan. Like I said before, I was able to place my hand on the engine while it was running and not be burned with the fan going. I couldn't do the same thing without the fan. Seems to me to be enough evidence to support using a fan. But I also think it has to be a decent fan that can actually move some air. Little fans won't cut it...
I just moved from a country where I never needed generators for home use, but now I’m in Florida and just bought one for the coming hurricane season. So happy to find your channel in here and I’ll be on the looking! TY!
I working on my generator hookup video right now. I should have it up in the next few days.
As learned in the Navy long, ALWAYS rig power from load to source. I follow this simple procedure with everything 50 years later.
Ahh a Navy man.. Thanks for your service. 🇺🇸
You can backfeed circuits safely if you follow procedures. Use the gfci outlets on the generator, shut the main breaker on your panel, don't handle live extension cord.
Yup!
So long as the 200amp main is off, you will not backfeed!
T3ied to back feed once it doesn't work unless you use a non gfci in the home
Yeah you can do it properly but there are to many variables that a lot of people don’t think about. Like the neutral wire that can also be hot
"THANK YOU" very much! I just purchased my first generator. So I thought I'd better educate myself before using it. Your video is a big help and blessing. It saves lives!
Fantastic!
Great video John - glad you covered the "refueling" issue as well, since I'm sure many people hate to disrupt the generator power in the middle of using it, but definitely a hazard if you don't. I'd also add that it is wise to write down the step-by-step procedures in a clear fashion and post by the panel - not only for yourself (could be years in between uses, or at least months) - but also for other maybe less-technical members of the family if you are not around to perform the switchover!
Thank you and Great Point. Even with my decades of experience I still have a procedure at the panel. I have actually written them for friends and family as well. Thanks so much for you comment.
I also suggest using a (D)battery fuel transfer stick pump to avoid spills (we have all fought those fill spouts) . Places like Harbor Freight have them for under $15
Great tips! I boxed our portable generator with plywood left adequate ventilation so I can run it in the rain away from the house. I back feed to a 50 Amp outlet box.
My system is 18 years old. Honda 4500, I think I have that suicide setup!
Male into the generator, and male into a box on the wall.
It was installed in 2005. I have used it many times with storms in Florida.
I bet it's not code anymore!
Might be time to have an electrician take a look.
Just came across you channel, love it!
Thanks, Rick.
Never was
Youll be fine IF you are cognizant that those plug ends are hot and will fry you....
I did a 50amp 240 suicide setup. I use the same start up shut down sequence he did so, that it isnt hot, but i still treat the ends though they are hot at all times.
And if you don't throw the main breaker you can electrocute a lineman. Plus you bypass your breakers.
@@chuckr1951 and if you run out in front of traffic on I-75 you'll get hit by a car!!! Thank you Captain Obvious!!! Furthermore you are not bypassing any breakers. But hey, great way to tell everyone you have no idea how a circuit panel works!! LoL
good advice,but as you mentioned yourself some things can be a challenge.If one is in the middle of a hurricane, to run a generator in dry "conditions"would require a sturdy,dedicated structure,meant for the generator only use.This requires extra real estate area,building permit and construction of it with possible inspection.Anything can be done provided one pumps enough money into the enterprise,which ,alas is not the case for a lot of people
Thanks for the video and all the solid tips. I think it's really important for everyone to be familiar with them and review them regularly. They are all common sense, but many times, if you are setting up a generator, you might be in severe weather, or under stress and in a rush. That's when mistakes can happen even to the best of us.
Regarding keeping the generator away from the house, I can't stress this enough. Especially in the wintertime when it is cold outside and warm inside, your house will be drawing air from outside. If you have a very modern house that is well sealed, you might have less of an issue, but many older homes are not sealed as well.
I witnessed this first hand when a neighbor had a grill going with a heavy scent of unburned fuel as they fired it up on a very cool fall day. Even though it was over 30 feet away, in my older and leaky house, the heated air inside my house created a draft, and pulled in the fumes from the neighbor's grill through tiny leaks around the windows and doors, and it literally smelled like a fire was in the house. So be sure to keep generators and other combustion well away from your home, and particularly in the winter.
Great information. Thanks you..
All very good information here. As a volunteer fire fighter I have seen homes set on fire for placing the exhaust too close to combustibles. Also wind direction and exhaust can cause CO issues. I have seen generators in front of open garage doors with a slight breeze pushing the exhaust back into the open doors charging the house with CO.
Thanks for sharing
Maybe you could talk about soft start systems for central air conditioning systems.
While this video is very helpful and make some really good talking points its amazing that you left out an extremely important safety point. You're only allowed to have the neutral and ground bonded at the main disconnect of your home.If you simply power your home with a bonded generator your running the risk of electrical shock.Anytime you power your home with a generator you should always make sure your generator is UNBONDED.Its a simple process to add a switch to the generator so you can go back and forth between bonded and unbonded.Tons of videos on here explaining in more detail and how to instructions to accomplish this.Not trying to criticize your video because like I said it make great and valid points.Just thought your viewers might also like to understand the difference between using a bonded vs unbonded generator.All the best.
There is a lot of confusion and misunderstand around grounding and bonding especially with generators. I have a dedicated video planned to cover this subject completely. Stay tuned.
Great videos!! Thanks for reminding me to pull out my generator. Just the other day I noticed it underneath its cover with some stuff piled on top. And thought, I need to start it and change her oil!! On my honey-do list for today!! Thanks BM…
I know the feeling and that generator is often out of sight and out of mind until you need it right.. I just made another video covering maintenance. It called 7 Tips to help Avoid Killing your Generator. ruclips.net/video/Mwnm7PMzy64/видео.html
If your going through the trouble of adding a receptacle on the side of your panel, just also add a manual transfer switch. This passes code in case you sell your home, plus isolates your home from the grid when using Gen.
A manual transfer switch works fine but so does using an interlock kit which also passes code.
Excellent safety tips! Can you also talk about making sure when using a portable generator to properly back feed your home it should also be confirmed to have a floating neutral? Most portable generators are sold with bonded neutrals so they can be used safely in the more common application where users are plugging cords and appliances directly into the generator’s built-in 120 volt outlets. When that same generator will be used in the mode your video shows, the generator needs to be set up with an un-bonded neutral (floating neutral) so you do not have “objectionable” neutral load voltages being carried on the ground wire between the home and the generator.
The ground and neutral can only be bonded in one location. Since this is done on the home at the first disconnect you have two options when connecting a backup generator.
Floating Neutral: There is no bond between neutral and ground at the generator. No need for a ground rod at the generator. You will connect the neutral to the neutral bus at the panel.
Bonded Neutral: There is a bond between the neutral and the ground at the generator. Since we can only bond in one location you will need a transfer switch that switches the neutral along with the line wires. This meets the definition of a separately derived system since the bond will be isolated to the connection at the generator switching the home bond out of the system. In most cases you will be required to set a ground rod at the generator for this connection.
Most bonded generators will offer and method to remove the bond. When using an un-bonded or floating neutral generator for something other than for home backup power a ground to neutral bond is required. They make grounding plugs that can be used for this purpose. It’s simply a plug with no cord that has a connection between the ground pin and neutral.
I hope this helps.
Thanks for great information. I’m hoping to buy a good used generator to keep our refrigerator running during a blackout. Gave me a good sfew starting points.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much for your educational videos. I am from EU, where some differences exist and I am not familiar with your type of generator feed-braker, so I have the following questions: When you switch over to the generator, do ground and neutral wires remain interconnected via the first point of disconnect panel bond, or not? How generators can cope with that? Our generators have only three pole terminal sockets, ground and two power contacts. None is marked as phase or neutral, and you can reverse connect them normally. Thank you.
I needed the reminders as hurricane season cranks up. Thanks. Practice makes permanent.
You bet!
Looking forward to your assessment of the Anker Solix. Recently, we got rid of Honda gasoline powered generator due to gasoline storage issues (going bad over time). Replaced it with an 2 Anker Solix units and 5 200 W solar panels. We monthly decharge and recharge the batteries on an alternating schedule. So far, very happy with setup. Note, it's for emergency use only, not as a power source replacement.
When running mine, I will always use one of the spare 120v recepticles and plug in a high velocity fan, so it constantly blows air over the generator and forces any air to pass over the exhaust blowing it well clear and any hazards of CO coming anywhere near the house.. Plus it will help keep the generator from overheating.
If you unbond neutral as you should when connecting to house, if it safe to use the generator outlets since it's unbonded on those?
Totally agree about running inside , that said I have a storage where my generator is in with the hookup it’s 75 feet away from my home and the cable is underground. I never had a problem in 15 years. Got to use common sense.
Surprisingly my science teacher actually taught us to never backfeed or use an electric suicide cord. It is common sense not to use one but it really depends on who you're talking to!
I'll bet half the people in Maine use them. lol
You mentioned at the end probably the best advice but didn't cover it and that would be writing yourself a switching procedure to prevent mistakes,proper connection and disconnection is probably the most important thing you can do to be safe. Power outages can be chaotic and a good procedure can prevent slip ups.
I ordered the lock out and 30 amp breaker specifically for my panel brand. Not spending a whole day doing this, but broke it up over a couple days. Total time was about six hours.
Installed the back feed 30amp breaker per instructions with the kit. Had to modify the heigth an 1/8th inch so the breaker would only function when lockout bracket cleared the switch completely. This required adding nylon #10 flat washers or spacers between the panel cover and the underside lockout plate.
Then, located the inlet, drilled the proper hole into basement, verifying no wall outlets or visually wires in that area, pushed the #10-4 so cable through, wired the inlet insuring every wire was bound and no bare wire were exposed, mounted the inlet box, sealed all around with bath silicone caulk. Checked the X,(black) Y,(red) W(white neutral) and G (ground) continuity end to end of cable to inlet.
Back at the panel, TURN OFF MAIN BREAKER, AND ALL BRANCH BREAKERS FOR SAFETY !!!!
Push the cable through an appropriate 3/4 " knock out and retention clamp, adjusted length for future service if needed, removed the 30amp breaker. Carefully,, strip cable jacket without nicking the colored wire insulation to allow each colored wire to reach it's destination.
Connected Green ground to the ground buss bar, white to the neutral bar, Red, and Black to the removed breaker, assuring no exposed copper wire, torque the binder screws well, usually labelled on breaker. Re install breaker to main buss position, replace the panel cover, paying attention to lockout position as you position cover over all the breaker switches.
Test motion of Generator breaker using the lockout kit..if it turns on and off with the main off, now with Generator breaker off, turn on main breaker, does the lockout block GENERATOR switch from moving? If yes, the system is installed correctly and branch circuits can be turned back on.
My home has a single grounding rod upgrade with in 4 feet. My panel is also bonded to the ground buss, so no no extra ground wire was needed from generator to the rod.
That was it. Tested hook up, and thumbs up.
Now to somehow afford one of those fancy generator storm tents that clamps to the open frame bars..!!
My generator runs quite nicely in my shed. No issues with rain. I keep the 4 x 6' door wide open. I have a sealed, 3" RV exhaust vent that goes through the roof of the shed to a height of 12 feet. The roof and shed are highly ventilated. Just in case, I have 3 CO monitors in the shed. Never had a problem.
Sound like you have a good setup
Great vid. But i also see a lot of vids where people say the generators get stolen a lot. So when it's safely positioned away from your home, it might get stolen. How to fix that?
Would really like to know your thoughts on a propane generator vs the gasoline generator. My thought is the propane does not go bad like gasoline stored in a storage container after a long period of time. I have lived in Iowa and Arizona and both utility companies have provided reliable power so the need of portable generator power has been minimal. Thanks for sharing some valuable tips on generator safety.
I have never owned a propane powered generator but I do certainly like the idea. I think they are safer, and you can probably get through most outages without needing to fill the tank. I also like the idea of inverter generators which use less fuel and provide much cleaner power allowing you to confidently use your computers and other electronic devices.
Propane is ok and convenient, but you I don't think you'll get any more run time from a 20 lb. propane bottle than 5 gallons of gas. You'll need multiple 20 lb. propane bottles for a longer term outage. A larger 100 lb. propane bottle can be hard to handle. On the other hand, if you already use propane at your house, have a connection piped in for long term use.
Adding a gas preservative like
Stabil or Startron will allow you
To keep gas long term. Startron
Works for two years. I usually
Put my generator gas in my car
After one year and start over
With fresh gas.
Well done! Just bought a generator and am watching tons of videos and yours is fantastic...great safety reminders!
Awesome.. Thank you!
Love the video! Thanks also for your service from a US Navy brother in arms! 👍
Thanks for your service as well. 🇺🇸
You touched on this, but I NEVER start or turn off a generator under load. (it will last longer) 🙂 AVR's are expensive these days
So how exactly does that work??? Turning it on before connecting wires?? Or what
@@sparkygreen6298just don't have any appliances turned on, or if you have no control of whether they're on or off, unplug them or open up the breaker for them before starting, and turn the appliances off or unplug them before shutting the generator down.
Excellent video. It is extremely rare that I loose power where I live but I have a portable generator for these rare occasions. Seeing that years can go by between generator needs, it’s incredibly helpful to be reminded of safest best practices. My set up is very similar to yours except I have a cover that sheds rain and snow off the generator keeping it dry and safe. I also have a heavy duty cable lock which allows me to secure the generator to my deck so it cannot be liberated from my property by desperate sticky fingers in a crisis. Thank you so much for the refresher! 👍
My pleasure. Thanks so much for watching.
I’ve seen some people put wood blocks under the axle. Then take the wheels off. Another deterrent.
It is not hard to make a "carport" for your generator. Basically a big scrap piece of plywood, with 2x4s for legs. Just make it big enough that the legs and the plywood sheet are well away from the generator/hot exhaust, and make one side lower than the other by an inch or two so it sheds water easily. Bonus points if you paint or seal it, but you really don't need to given that it only sits out in the weather for a day or two normally. If it is very windy I put a cinder block on top of it. If you want to get fancy, put the legs on hinges. Or just screw the legs to the top and remove the screws when you need to store it. Your battery powered drill will still work when the power is out so no big deal to reassemble it.
All of the things that you said are true and correct But when it's an instance of a power grid down I'm sorry I'm just gonna shut the main breaker off and back feed through my shed
Or you could plan ahead and build a safe setup.
@@BackyardMaine Well, yeah....but what fun is that?
I will add myself to the list of people interested in more details on grounding. I have seen advice to use ground rods and not to use ground rods. This also interacts with locating the generator away from standing water and the home. I hope RUclips alerts me if you post such a video since I would be very interested.
If you subscribe and hit the bell you will get notified. I have a couple of videos to come first but I will get that video out this summer for sure.
For an interlocked backfeed breaker setup, neutral is not switched. This means you must use a floating neutral generator (must not bond neutral and ground on the generator). No additional ground rod is needed; it is grounded at the service entrance.
If you have a transfer switch with switching neutrals, you need to set up the generator as if it’s another service. It is called “separately derived system” and you will need to add a separate grounding source & bond it with the neutral at the generator.
@@toukoaozaki You are correct but many don't understand what that all means. You and I do but not everyone. I plan to make a video showing the difference and the reasoning behind the rules.
Excellent video. I went one step further by attaching, to the panel, a very detailed, simple set of instructions to follow in case I am not home when the generator is needed. I also had a training session for everybody who "may" have to use the generator. But one question I have: I made a device that is mounted on the distribution panel that will absolutely prevent both street power and generator power to energize the distribution panel at the same time. Since the device is not UL approved, is it legal???
As long as you have a mechanical device that prevent the generator breaker and the main from being turned on at the same time I think you're fine. The one I bought for my panel is not uL listed.
I have used a generator after many hurricanes , but this is a good refresher on generator use. Thanks
My pleasure.. Thanks for watching.
Wow. I am smarter after watched this video. I 've learned so much from you today. Thank you !
Great video! Explaining the importance of the main breaker would also be good.
Thank you for this video. Question that I did not see answered or I missed it. If someone back feeds their generator through the dryer outlet that powers the electrical circuit box, if you throw the main breaker in the electrical box doesn't that prevent the electric, produced by the generator, from going to the telephone pole?
It does but the issue there is we're depending on a person to always do things correctly. All of us humans make mistakes on occasion so it's best to have a mechanical device to prevent a mistake from being made. Especially one that could put other peoples lives at risk. Thats why back feeding a dryer receptacle is illegal.
Good stuff. Especially about carbon monoxide and windows or doors. Also storing gas inside is not a good idea.
I have one of those collars installed on the power meter where I can plug in the female end of the cord. The collar and cord was around 1500 bucks installed. It doesn’t require a transfer switch and won’t back feed the grid so no danger to linemen working. It has lights that let you know when the power is back on. I’ve used it many times and it works great. Want a whole home generator one day.
Great video, John! Clear and on-the-point(s).
I hope you'll make a similar video that addresses those (the majority, I think) who don't connect their gens to breaker panels, but simply use extension cords to power individual appliances during outages.
-- Old Matt
Thanks you Matt and Great suggestion! I'll add that to my content list.
@@BackyardMaine If you are interested on the thoughts I have come up with on this matter:
1. Focus on small 120V inverter based propane generators - Propane lasts forever, so no worries about it going bad. Burns cleaner, so less crudding up of your generator. Something like a TT-30 or NEMA L5-30 extension cord can usually power the basics and even a 120V window or portable air conditioner. (Having a cool room to go to in a summer time power outage is a lot better than it is just sizzling anywhere you go inside. Even on normal days, it can save a lot of power to have the room you spend the most time in cooler than the other rooms that you then let float a little high so that say you whole home HVAC is not cranking away so hard at running up your power bill.)
2. For the kitchen in particular, have some sort of battery - inverter setup that can be charged off of the generator. The problem I have hit with my small generator testing is most everything in the kitchen, at least my kitchen, hard starts / suddenly draws a big load. This doesn't work out too well with small generators that have a relatively low amount of spinning mass to absorb those hits until the engine can ramp up. Also for piece of mind, it is much nicer to have the fridge powered all the time while it is a big gas guzzler to run the generator all the time. Granted most fridges should be able to make it up to 10 hours before things thaw out and start expiring, I think most would be more comfortable with a constant or near constant supply and especially not have to micromanage power to their fridge and hope they don't screw up and then have to dump a bunch of food into the trash. If the generator is hooked up to automatically charge the battery when it is running, maybe you just run the generator a handful of hours throughout the day on ECO mode (as the charger will more or less draw constant power) or at least shut it off overnight to save fuel and make less noise. Plus if it is still super stormy outside as you mention weather in this video, you may only be able to use the battery - inverter setup at first until the storm passes. (Maybe if it is not too bad out, you put a table over the inverter-generator as these fully enclosed units just suck in air in the front and spit out exhaust and hot cooling air out the back.) Then you may have a long power outage time as cleanup happens after the storm that you run the generator in and charge this back up. Personally, I am a bit of a fan of having separate components for inverter, battery, and charger so you can customize each component to your needs on the cheap, but all in one boxes are also common these days as you briefly mention in this video.
3. There are some ways to do extension cords right and ways to make for a dangerous setup. For one, most of these small inverter generators are floating neutral. It is important to setup a ground-neutral bond. I did the "easy button" of building a TT-30 adapter cable only for use with the generator that has this ground-neutral bond. Then I have a separate long TT-30 extension cord to pull into the house so the generator can be setup out in the open. In case I want to use this long extension cord for something besides the generator, it is still in its stock configuration and so will be fine. Only the specially built adapter cable can only be used with the generator. I have found without this ground-neutral bond, inverter generator power can become 'dirty' and cause my electronics to glitch up. So in addition to safety, it is actually rather important for your electronics to function properly on generator power. The UPSes I use also complain if the bond is missing as now their surge protection function cannot work. With a generator backup solution like this, you have to have a UPS capable of riding through a power outage long enough for you to get the generator power coming into the house and to the electronics or else they will lose power. In real power outages, my main UPS has reported ~30% of its battery capacity used by the time I got it onto generator power when I have been home during the outage. Another thing that I did was to build a special adapter cable to hook generator ground into house ground using lighted plugs so I can see when generator power is present and I can see when house power comes back. There is only a ground wire going between ground prongs, so power cannot pass, it is NOT a suicide cable without these additional wires. This way everything, including all of my electronics that often have conducting copper Ethernet cables running between them are tied to the same ground voltage reference potential. I have noticed with analog audio cables running between devices that without this common ground, it will pickup a significant electronic hum for my speaker output. So yeah, a good common ground can help things out right away with your audio equipment if you still have analog stuff in the loop. In the worst case scenario, it will prevent static discharge between devices, which with electronics can lead to equipment that no longer works.
Thanks for your safety tips
Always good to review safety tips periodically to keep fresh in mind
One thing to add - is to have a fire extinguisher (or 2) nearby
Thanks again
Safety First - be safe
My pleasure.. Thanks for watching..
I setup my portable generator in my detached two car garage which is over thirty feet away from my house. It feeds the panel through under ground PVC conduit. It has a remote start/stop fob. I installed an exhaust fan and fresh air intake. Plus run a fan to blow cooling air onto the generator while running. Also leave the garage door open slightly. And I do use carbon monoxide detectors inside the house. Have only used it in cold weather so the house doors and windows remain closed.
I spent more money and have a tri fuel portable generator and with more money have one of those plug in natural gas connections . I’d recommend people consider it although I realize outside city/urban areas it may not be an option. I think it’s so much safer from both not storing gasoline, having to refuel and also driving around trying to find more after a storm. If it’s so bad that natural gas is out we’re out of here but can run on a propane tank /gasoline if needed
I would love to have that option.
What an excellent video! Thanks for your terrific presentation and all your safety tips!
It was my pleasure.. Thank you.
Good video....I would only add to Only use terms OFF and ON , instead of Open and Close when referring to the breakers, especially the one installed for the generator.
Good tip. Open and closed are terms used in the electrical industry but surly not by everyone.
As you demonstrate, a vintage gas can seems a lot safer for not spilling gasoline during refueling compared to newer "approved" ones.
Great video...people need to hear this to be safe...
Another great video, John! You are doing us Maine electricians very proud with your consistently excellent content.
I appreciate that my friend. Thanks so much for watching and commenting.
Aye... howdy to the Maine-ards...and be safe!
One thing you forgot to mention was a grounding issue, the basics of a bonded neutral vs floating neutral!
I'm going to dedicate a video to generator grounding. There is a lot of confusion around that and many get it wrong. It depends on the bonding of the neutral at the generator and at the main panel. Is the generator a separately derived system or not. Stay tuned for a video on that subject.
@@BackyardMaineLooking forward to that!
Very interesting. Here in Saskatchewan Canada our hook up for the portable generator is on our house's meter.
It can be done that way as well but that is more common for whole house systems.
Great review thank you may i ask what is the best watt output to supply a domestic home to run the lights and heat pumps from an open fire
Generators are sized by their kw rating. They will have a starting load and a running load rating. You will want to make sure the sum of your loads is well under the running load value. Also heat pumps will have inrush which needs to be accounted for as well. You should probably have an electrician help you select the proper size after evaluating you load requirements
I circumvent several of those issues by using propane instead of gas. Also, safer and easier to store. Doesn't go bad like gas does, either.
Me too
I do as well, although I get fewer watts with propane than gas.
Great tips! but using the term "open" for off is confusing, I think of an open circuit as on and closed as off.
Sorry. In the electrical industry open is synonymous with off and closed with on.
@@BackyardMaine Didn't know.
We shut off airplane engines the same way by pulling the mixture to full lean prior to turning off the magnetos. Surprised I didnt do the same with ny generator. Thanks for the tip.
Hi! Great video. Just had a quick question I can’t seem to find an answer to online. When setting up an interlock kit to connect a generator to a home, are there special considerations to keep in mind if the home has solar so when the generator is supplying power to the house, it doesn’t negatively affect the solar panels? Or is simply turning off the main breaker sufficient to protect the solar system?
I haven't installed a lot of solar but I believe that on a grid tied system the inverters kick off when utility power has been lost. That is often a surprise for some people when they find out they still have no power on a sunny day when utility is out.
Finally someone that does not recommend backfeeding an electrical panel. I have even had electricians recommend this.
Yes, for sure. Back feeds are not a good idea.
Back feeds are asking for trouble unless managed by a skilled electrician. All critical loads should be from a panel board supplied by a transfer switch. More expensive but much less risk
You can if you have an electric dryer connection of 220. Last ditch use.
What about adding a power vent (from a hot water tank) mounted above where the engine exhaust is for draft and plumbing an exhaust stack out a garage window?
Check you local codes.. I wouldn't trust it myself. A small leak could be deadly.
@3:40 the trash can with the name _Casella_ on it reminded me of Tony Casella in Maine, who owned a number of development properties. These are solid tips, John, and your videos make me miss living Downeast.
Thank you my friend. Much appreciated. Where are you living now?
@@BackyardMaine Richmond, VA. Lived in ME for 20 years. Maybe I'll make it back. Take care.
Run an Exhaust tube on your Generator
Thanks for sharing this video
I have a question for you. When hooking up a portable generator to your home this way what do you about the floating neutral issue this creates? The neutral is grounded in the portable generator frame that has no earth ground to the generator.
When connected this way the generator needs a floating neutral. That means there is no bond between the neutral and ground at the generator. But when we connect a floating neutral generator to our home we complete the bond since it done at the service panel. The generator is grounded and bonded through the existing system. The neutral and ground bond can only happen in one location on our electrical system so if connecting a bonded neural generator we will need a transfer switch the switches the neutral along with the line wires. This is usually only done with whole house systems with automatic transfer switches
I didn't see you mention grounding the generator. Did I miss this? An important precaution especially in wet conditions.
Actually no in most cases you do not want to ground your generator. I will explain this in detail in a video coming very soon. So many people get this wrong and it can be dangerous.
Really good tips John.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching my friend
That was VERY informative. I appreciate the information you present
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Great video for people with no common sense probably saved some body's life.
Just found your channel!! Glad I did! 👍 Have you posted the one about installing the back up generator feed??
I working on the power station first which is out of order from what I said. I'll have that video up in a few days and up next will be the generator feed. Sorry for the delay.
Are those universal lockout kits? My Eaton panel had one, but would like another one. Thanks! Fantastic Video
They are designed for specific panels. You will want you panel model number to find the right one. The spacing has to be perfect.
@@BackyardMaine thank you! Love your channel
We put the generator under an outdoor metal and glass patio table, away from the house and chairs (combustible) and use a chain or bike lock to keep it from walking off.
Thank you for this posting. I am going to post it on my Facebook business page.
Awesome, thank you!
I watching your channel first just subscribed too. I love your content it's great to stay safe and be alive. Your detailed analysis is topnotch thanks for bringing these mistakes to light
Awesome, thank you! I appreciate comments like yours. Welcome to the channel. I have another video going live tomorrow.
This instruction was 🏆 🥇 outstanding
Thank you..
Easy enough to put the generator under some high tent to prevent rain exposure. But I’m concerned about the cords exposure to the elements as well (rain in particular). Any suggestions?
Ok, all good stuff. But installation instructions on mine (virtually identical model to your generator shown, just different distributer name) specify in no uncertain terms to attach the generator itself to an exterior ground for safety as well. You should discuss that.
Yes some do but you do not want to connect it to a ground. Most manufacturers are removing that instruction. I have a video planned to cover this in detail. Remember a ground rod is lighting or surge protection and not a path for fault current. You can actually connect a hot wire to a ground rod and it will only draw a few amps and will not trip the breaker.
I have a Durostar ds4400e generator that makes 3500w. I plan to use it for the moment just to run my freezer and 2 fridges in case of an outage. Do you have any video content that covers grounding rods for backyard use?
Not yet bit I am getting a lot of requests for that so I will make one very soon
Thanks for the video I have a question I just bought a Westinghouse 9500TFc I am going to get an electrician to hook up the box for 50 amp what size cord do I need and how long can I have this cord. Thanks
I like a 25 foot cord to be sure to place the generator well away from the house. Here's a link to a good quality 50A cord. amzn.to/3YLRc4m
Yep, all comes down to common sense and smarts, the people that do not possess these qualities will always attempt things they shouldn't. This is why the world is full of Lawyers, doctors, hospitals and sadly, funeral homes.
I only have a 100A service box which all the breakers are taken. Is it possible to have an electrician hook up a 30A breaker interlock tied into a 30A breaker by removing several 15A breakers? Can the removed circuits from the 2x 15A be attached into the new 30A breaker or is a 50A circuit a possible choice for both the generator and the 15A supply? this is an old house (1964) and they didn't have need to supply so much then as we have now. Should have gone and become an electrician . lol...love your explanations and examples-well done!
You cannot connect 15A circuits to the 30A or 50A breaker because the wire and the devices would not be protected from overcurrent. There are ways to make room in a panel for the generator breaker. One way is to add a small sub panel. Usually a 12 circuit is nice because it will take the two circuits to clear a space for the generator breaker and two more circuits to clear the space for the sub panel breaker. It also leave room for future expansion. Another way is to combine some lighting circuits if possible. Most lighting is LED now and draws very little amperage so combining circuits is often an option. Your electrician can help you decide what the best option is depending on load.
How's she goin'? Life saving tips here John!! Thanks! Take 'er easy!!
Thanks Mike.. Doing well here. I hope all is well for you and your wife in the wild and wonderful north.
The other mistake most people make is they think a $150 Harbor Freight generator that is meant to be used outdoors on a construction site will work to power their home with 100 foot extension cords.
I prefer a full fledged generator with a cutoff panel. I ran portable generators for years but now, everything is automated. Not cheap, but they are fantastic.
Could you please cover bonded and unbonded neutral generators?
I'll make a video on that subject soon..
The electrician that installed my power connection put a manual lever on the outside of the house next to the connection, then wired it in the house and all the stuff for the generator is on the outside of the house also next to my meter for the power company. My electrician also did a walkthrough of the house and said all can run on it but with ac on can't run the eclectic dryer and the microwave if the ac is on, he showed me how to connect it and to use the generator. I connect my generator to the house, start it up, wait for the generator to warm up and move the selection from MAIN to AUX. I was shocked to see it next to the circuit panel but different code per state or the electrician and I don't know about all that that stuff. My electrician did agree with you because he said, it won't kill you to wait 15 mins vs trying to up gas in it right away. He also suggested to get a battier operated fuel transfer pump, it is for gas cans. Great Video, thumbs up!
Excellent and extremely useful. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much.
Your
video Was amazingly informative.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Do you have a video explaining bonded neutral or floating neutral on a stand by generator? I have a friend that bought a new generator and hooked it up as he had been running the old one for 15 years. It caught surge protectors in his house on fire. I wonder if that could be caused by difference in neutral?
Coming up soon. I have one more video to complete and thats next on the list.