We thank you for your interest in our help videos. Unfortunately, due to limitations in RUclipss comment sections, we are unable to quickly answer questions in the comments. Please feel free to contact us directly here: www.generatorguru.com/need-help/ PLEASE NOTE: You cannot test the AVR without a very expensive piece of kit called a Megga meter. This is why you need to do these tests to make sure there is no other problems in the Alternator. This will discount any other problems leaving the only possibility being the AVR.
you need to show,or tell,what happens when certain items blow. . my geni reved up. trying to find out why. the shop said,its chinese,buy another. there not interested. its remote start,key,pull,3.500 w. inverter. i have an old subaru,10 yrs,still going,but noisy as hell. 5kva. need a more portable geni. so bought the inverter.small suitcase size.
I have never commented on any of the hundreds (if not thousands) of RUclips videos I've watched, but I am beyond grateful for this. I promised a client of mine that I would fix his generator, which I've never done before. More than 5 hours and many YT videos later, I still hadn't figured out the issue. The brushes were shot, everything else had continuity. Replaced the brushes, but still no power. You are the ONLY person I found that pointed out that the positive wire always goes on the left side of the brushes. I just hooked them up how they were before (another shop tried to repair). All of a sudden, IT WORKED!!! So, thank you so much for your help. Very grateful for you.
I am so glad we could help! If you need any other info we have an interactive help centre which can help you fix most generator issues: generatorguru.com/need-help/>Engineering
Thank you a thousand times!! You were very instructive in every phase of showing how to properly troubleshoot a generator. You even took the time to show the proper settings on the multimeter for anyone who needed help. Your a blessing. GOD bless you.
I find it interesting that people who really understand what they are doing make great simple instructors. No complicated garble that the watcher doesn’t understand anyway.
Thank you so much for your Comment! I have patted my team on the back and passed your thoughtful thanks onto them. We really appreciate you letting us know. Would you be able to leave a review for us on trustpilot? We have recently signed up with them and would like to spread the word and help save more Generators. If you could be so kind, please leave a review via this page uk.trustpilot.com/review/generatorguru.com Thanks again for your feedback!!
Generator Guru back in the early 70s, I was taught by my grandfather, how to rebuild generators, alternators and starters, with the simplest tools available, close to 50 years I've only had to replace one generator to an alternator, switching over a 1960 Ford F-100 Excellent video, really enjoyed it.
Hi Dale Thank you for the comment, I would love to hear more about it, a lot of people get stuck with the lesser known or unbranded generators as many rewind companies do not want to touch them so charge high prices for repairs to push people away and many people find themselves with a unit that is no use to anyone but not worth the repair costs
This has been the best instructional video I have found on you tube. Thank you for taking the time to demonstrate the testing. Now I have a question not really covered. I have 4.7 v to both the R1R2 and L1 L2 and 0v on R1L1 but I only am getting 1.7v across the brushes. The surface that the brushes are riding on are smooth. I thought these were grooved. I am looking forward to your expertise on this. Gary
Thanks for the feedback! R1 and L1 should be 0 vac if you have a voltage changeover switch and set it to the lowest setting. These results indicate you need a new AVR. The AVR should bring up the rotor to 5vac also if you run it for 20 mins without load to stabilize the magnetic field. Your brushes will be smooth where they connect to the rotor, but be sure they have enough play in them to make a good connection. If you are still having any trouble please let us know and we will be happy to advise you further. :)
Sorry I should have added that I have already replaced the AVR. This unit has only been used a short time. brushes are not even worn in yet.So are you saying I should run it 20 minutes with the new AVR? one last question. This John Deere 6200 watt runs wide open all the time. Is that normal?
Generator Guru sir i changed the Generator AVR but the voltage is still not stable ..when i start some things on it becomes decreasing voltage from 220 to 195..
Thank You! Finally a video on fixing a generator with brushes that makes sense. I am finally now able to narrow down what the actual problem is. It is the AVR. Thank you again for the awesome video.
The diodes on your rotor have blown. Check to see if they are accessible (usually on the end of the rotor or the fan end) if so replace them. If they are "in" the rotor you can take the rotor and windings to your local "motor rewind" company and they can rebuild it for you. But worth calling g a few companies as price varies greatly!
Hi, Generator is outputting around 3.5- 4V on the brushes and 4 - 5 V on the L1, L2, R1, R2 and when I tested the L1 - R1 I was also getting 4 V but im only getting 8V on the 230V output on the generator. what could this error be?
I had a loose terminal on a new duromax 8500 which fried the avr.. They sent a new one but it was only putting out 109 volts on both sides . The avr had an small adjusting screw and I turned it and adjusted it to 120 . Works perfect now.. Thanks for the video
Ummmm.... you should not be adjusting that screw! They are set at the factory and now you have just changed the hertz output!!! That is not good!!!!! IF IT HAD CORRECT VOLTAGE BEFORE THE AVR BLEW - Run the test in this video and follow relevant steps below. IF GENERATOR IS COMPLETELY BRAND NEW: Best to set it back to 109 then adjust the speed by the top screw on the carb. Use voltmeter to set to the correct voltage. Before you do that. be sure good fuel flow is coming from the tank as the Petcock has a filter behind it which might be blocked. IF GENERATOR HAS RUN FOR MORE THAN 1 HOUR: If you were getting low power and it is NOT totally brand new, but has some running time on it, this is what you need to check: 1) it needs servicing. (1st service best done at 50 hours as loads of metal shaving are produced as it settles in) - see ruclips.net/video/ioAgCqPhUfg/видео.html 2) The engine has settled in and valves need resetting. This needs doing after about 1st 50 hours - see valve setting on our website and follow this video: ruclips.net/video/mYrdnPVmaDs/видео.html If you need more help please contact us on generatorguru.com/need-help/ and we can assign you an engineer. :)
Thank you, With your help I located the brushes on the Hyundai 7000 and cleaned them so it works again. Genpower were useless and argued over warranty times so much for the platinum warranty! Kind regards Andy
Thank you for your feedback! We pride ourselves on "Good old-fashioned customer care!"We strive every day to save generators and other machinery from being scrapped due to parts not being available. It helps every-ones pockets and prevents tons of CO2 being added to our ecosystem!
Hey man. Thank you. You made my day. I didn't loose magnetism, just had to change the avr (because i mistakenly connect the public power source to my generator. Turned the thing into a motor in a flash ruining my avr in the process. . That's a awesome guy you got there. (the black cutie) Thanks a lot
Very good demo. Nice, clear explanation. I thought I might mention though - that the rotor is not "otherwise known as the stator". The part you call "the windings" are the stationary part of the generator - the stator. The rotating part of a generator or a motor is the rotor - whether it has windings, permanent magnets or a squirrel cage structure.
Hi Ralph Thanks for getting in touch! A few people have pointed it out over the years, a bit of a slip of the tongue we didn't spot until after we had posted the video, it used to have a little tag at that point in the video apologising but youtube seems to have dropped the captions off and won't let us replace them as its convinced they are still there!
That was a very well explained and informative video. It removes some of the mystery about what's inside the alternator, and teaches the ordinary lamer some basic troubleshooting tips. Thank you.
Thank you for your excellent and most helpful video. I tested my Firman 4550/3650 and the results were not what I was hoping for. Across the brushes 13.28 L1/2 .38 R1/2 .34 and I didn’t bother measuring L1/R1. Please confirm my worst nightmare about this generator. Thank you again for sharing your time and knowledge.
Sorry! The rotor diode has blown. If you can see it on the end of the rotor you can remove and replace, or take it to a motor rewind shop and ask if they can change it for you. :)
What's that you say? Ahhh! Now I can hear you. I have to remember not to test my AVR on a windy day I guess...THANK YOU!! very content rich. Love that.
Stephen, Thanks for getting in touch. Yes, we find on some computers the sound works perfectly, and on others it is impossible to hear. If you have any questions please contact us www.generatorguru.com/need-help/. We have in planning stage, a new version of this video and a poster for step by step instructions. Thanks for your feedback! Hope it was helpful even with the sound quality. :)
+Rick Saffery You cannot test the AVR without a very expensive piece of kit called a Megga meter. This is why you need to do these tests to make sure there is no other problems in the Alternator. This will discount any other problems leaving the only possibility being the AVR.
John, These are the results without the AVR attached during testing? If not please test without it attached, if so, then follow the next step. If the hertz are that high then we would be questioning the speed of the engine. First, check the Governor Rod and all springs are in good order (especially the one over the rod to the top of the carb as a little play in the spring will greatly affect this.) Also, service the engine to be sure that nothing has gunked up the governor which sits inside the engine as this adjusts the speed. In North America, you want 60hz (50hz for European or Auz regions) so you need to slow down the engine if neither of the above is the case. On your generator, you can do this with the screw at the top of the carb. Turn slowly anticlockwise until you get the desired Hz. If this does not work you will need to replace the governor inside the engine. If you need parts we hold them for your generator. You can buy online on www.generatorguru.com/
nice video. The only technicality I see is your explanation of a rotor and stator, two distinctly different parts. Keep up the great work! This was a very informative video!
Yeah I got nervous during filming. I did add a note over it on youtube, just after I uploaded the video, to say I got them mixed up but over the years it seems to have disappeared with all the updates that RUclips have done. Thanks for pointing it out. I will try to get that reinstated. :)
Hi, I have a 3KW Suntom single phase diesel generator. It was ok, but now only producing 85Volts AC. I have followed your instructions, I have 1 volt across brushes, brushes ok. 4.8 Volts on L1 L2. 4.9 Volts on R1 R2 0Volts R1 L1. Do I need a new Rotor?.
I am very much curious, how much resistance reading is expected across the slip rings of the rotor, and does it vary, depending on the power rating of the generator? Very informative video by the way, thanks for the clear demonstration.
Thanks!! Resistance varies from generator to generator, and not all generator companies publish them. Hence needing a better way to test the alternators, and we came up with this! It is called the "Beagley Alternator Testing Technique" and was invented by our company founder many many years ago! :)
Can you please clarify what the n v v u represent. Also which generator (make and model) do you have? Your rectifier is reading a bit high. I would suggest replacing it.
What are the symptom of bad brushes? I recently replaced my AVR. I did not replace the brushes as the ones that came with the AVR seemed awful cheap. Now I'm curious if I should have replaced them anyways.
If you run the test on the Armature (Rotor) with the brushes fitted you should get a constant 5vac. If not replace the brushes. If you have any questions you can contact us via www.GeneratorGuru.com and we will pair you with an Engineer who will work through it with you. :)
Hey thanks for the info We will try to rectify this in future. :) (PS. sorry about the delay in answering, for some reason RUclips sent this question to the "junk" folder. We apologise for the inconvenience.)
I get 94mv DC from brushes which move and look like new. It's a very steady 94mv too. I get 4.14V AC from tests #2 and #3. I get 0v AC from #4. Unit is 3 years old and only got used when new for a few hours. Looks exactly like the one you are working on. I did have it set to 110V like you said. I know AC from DC and I also had the + wire to brushes marked from the OEM. Is the left one too. The rotor assembly is USD $180. Is that the problem here from the info I am giving you? Rotor is clean and shiny. Very clean unit, stored inside. The brown wire(bottom nut) had a bit of rust and corrosion. Is clean now. Great video, only of it's kind!!
What are you getting in Volts AC on the brushes? In need this to tell you what the state of your rotor is. The other tests (on the windings) are good, so there is not problem there. Look forward to hearing from you.
If you have the super-silent version, You might be able to find the Capacitor (or AVR in some models) from the back panel held on by the 10mm bolts (some models only). If not you will have to remove the exhaust... sorry.
thankyou very much for your effort and sharing nice video. but i was little bit puzzled during video how can multimeter gives 5,10 volts without any supply. please elucidate this point.
+wajahat hussain This is a good RUclips video which explains how an Alternator works: ruclips.net/video/tiKH48EMgKE/видео.html. There will be a residual voltage which is what we test.
I was running my heater off my generator (3000 watts)for about an hour when the heater when off. I checked the generator and it was running and smoking so I shut it off. Would that indicate my windings or alternator is burnt? Great video, very educational.
Hi, I've inspected everything and it all looks good. The generator is very new, used only a few times but it's been sitting in the shed for a few years. Does it sound like the AVR is gone? Would that horrible noise I described come from the generator if the AVR was gone?
Hi Guru, Thanks for this informative video. I have a generator with 220v and 400v. outlets. No power on the outlets. I measured 2,2 v on the brushes. L1-L2 16,2 v, R1-R2 9,0v R1-L1 16,3v (and R2-L2 8,8v). I understand this readings are a bit high and now I should investigate the windings. Is that right? In your video you said that I must contact you, how I can do that. Can you help me with that? Kind regards Dick Terweij
No the L1 & R1 reading tells me the windings are arcing. Remove the winding and have a look to see if anything has got ground up between the long fins. If so remove carefully and reassemble. DO NOT USE OIL ON THESE PARTS! (you may not but many do, and oil and electric do not mix!) If this is not what has happened take the winding and the rotor to your local motor rewind company to be rewound. Hope this helps! If you need any more help call us. Our website lists our number. :)
hello this video helped me out in a big way thank you... i have a tested brushes and the winding here are my results L1&L2 16.3. R1&R2.099 R1&L1.191 across the brushes 75.4.... if i heard right you said if the brushes read higher then the windings it would be the rotor?
Sorry for the delay in responding. We have had a few technical issues on our RUclips and were unable to respond. Yes you are correct the rotor is failing. As your Alternator has failed the tests, you need either replace the rotor, or to contact a local “Motor Rewind Company” to see if they can fix it. These companies can vary in price, so if you have time, it is worth getting a few quotes.
Hello, Great video, thank you for taking the time for doing this. I would like to get your thoughts on the Harbor Freight generators. I have the 8K one and have had it a couple of years and it has been great, but it is a cheap chinese unit. I recently moved in to a house that looses power alot in the winter. I was thinking of upgrading the brushes and AVR to a US made parts to try to keep the unit reliable, would you recommend doing this? If so, who would you recommend getting parts from? Also, what are your thoughts on propane conversion kit? I have read mixed reviews. Finally, how long would you run a generator for? I just had a power outage for 6 days with an outside temp of 20F, pretty much ran the unit 24/7, only shutting it down for about 20 min every 8hrs to add gas and check the oil. Thank you, Mark
You can run your generator continuously so long as the engine has good air flow and you do not need to stop it to refuel. The propane conversion kits are very good (not for Natuaral Gas, just propane) and can save money depending on fuel costs in your area. There are not US made brushes or AVRs for this unit but you will find that the brushes and AVR are of a good quality and will last so long as you do not overload the generator or allow it to overheat. Please be aware Harbor Freight is not the generator brand name, it is a shop that sells many different good generator brands. To find grade "A" parts and spares for your generator, please look on the control panel to find the Brand name of the unit and the model code, and look up the name here. www.generatorguru.com/categories/Make-%26-Model/ :)
Thanks for the informative video. I am an experienced motorcycle mechanic, but wasn't sure what to look for in testing why my xp4400e generator was only producing 40 volts at the outlets. The tests you prescribed here showed all within normal operating parameters, is it your opinion that my AVR has quit? Thanks again!
Hi Thanks for the great Video, after following your great instructions I have come to the conclusion that my AVR is toast, I have an old Colman Powermate 5000 which i can no longer get parts for, my question is, can i fit a substitute of equal output ? thanks for any help.
Please contact our Engineers by submitting a ticket here: generatorguru.zendesk.com/hc/en-us We will assign you an Engineer to work through the issue with you. We do not charge for this service. :)
Thanks *Blush.* He is 1/2 German Shepard, 1/4 Lab, and 1/4 Rotti. He is 8 years old now, and accepts that I talk to a tripod... Don't you love dogs, they accept you for who you are without question, even when you look nuts and talk to yourself. Thanks for your feedback
Probably 1 of the most helpful and easy to understand videos I've seen. Especially as I'm trying to diagnose my genny which has stopped producing power. I've tried the drill technique and I've tried the flash with a battery after disconnecting the avr. Neither have worked. Tho the genny did produce power for the few seconds I flashed it with the battery. So now I'm wondering if the avr is fried as we noticed water in the extension lead that was plugged into it. So I'm thinking that has sorted out the avr to protect the alternator like you just mentioned it should!
For fault finding or technical advice, feel free to contact us using the link below www.generatorguru.com/need-help/ This will allow our engineers to review your query and give you the best possible advice!
Thanks for the video, this is one of the better, more informative videos on this subject! The service manual for my EB6500SX is about $150, USED, so, you might have saved me that money!
Always happy to help! FYI... We also have loads more info on repairs and maintenance on your website if you ever need it. :) www.generatorguru.com/need-help/
Hi, Very clear explanation! I had 210 instead of 230 Vac on my generator output. All values of stator and rotor were fine. So, I raised the output voltage up to 230Vac by adjusting the potentionmeter screw on the AVR. So far so good, but now the 12Vdc 8.3A output is giving me too much voltage: 21Vdc. I assume this is a consequence of adjusting the AVR. Is there a way of to get the voltage back to 12Vdc without lowering also the AC output voltage? (Off course I could solder some resistor in series with the rectifier but that seems like an uneconomic solution...) For your information: I tested the diodes on the rectifier bridge that goes to the 12Vdc output and all 4 diodes seam fine. Generator: GENERMORE, CF6500 Thanks in advance!
You AVR is failing and needs to be replaced. There is no fix without replacing it for a new one. We do hold AVRs for Genermore Generators and would be happy to help you. You will need to contact our engineer to identify your particular AVR as they made this generator with 3 different alternators over the years. Please contact us on www.generatorguru.com/need-help/
If you have a capacitor then you need to have a look at my video for Brushless Generator Testing. You cannot fit an AVR unit to a brushless alternator without replacing the whole alternator and wiring system. It would be cheaper to buy an new generator, and a lot less hassle! Hope this helps!
I have a predator 4000. I'm getting 1.0 v at the brushes, approximately 4.0v at the other three tests. L1 l2, r1 r2, l1 r1. Can you explain the out of range brush 1.0 volts and l1 r1 is above 0v sitting at 4.0v please?
Don't cry! Yes you are correct in some countries it is called the Stator. It is also known as the armature and the rotor. We sell all over the world so use all these terms.
I seem to have a problem, I'm using a gentech 5kw alternator (with a honda 9HP engine) and i noticed that the generators voltage drops to almost 180v~ from 250v~ under 3 kw load, The engine doesn't seem to bog down, however, when i pulled a small bit on the throttle, the voltage rises a fair bit (i didn't want to push it past 260v) I initially thought the Regulator was bad, so i opened it up, however there didn't seem to be a regulator in sight! the only thing i did see was a large capacitor (something you would find on an induction motor for starting) Any ideas? My only answer would be that the regulator is perhaps between the engine and Alternator cooling fan? (also there was no brushes that i could see at the back of the alternator, but there was an exciter winding. Thanks Tau
Can you call us? We would love to help and talk you through it! Our full contact details can be found on our "Contact Us" page here: www.generatorguru.com/ask-the-guru/
Great video! I am working on a generac gp5500 with no output. I get 1.7 volts from the recepticales. Following your video I tested the brushes (0 volts) L1 1.7 volts, L2 1.7 volts and L1-R1 1.7 volts. Pretty much every where I am getting 1.7 volts. With only my positive lead on the brushes I am getting 15 volts but as soon as I connect the neg lead my meter (fluke 88) drops to 0Volts. Any ideas? I tried to use the drill technique with no luck - All my readings do not match any of your suggested readings. Sounding to me like my alternator is not creating any power what so ever? David
hello, little question for you, if the reading on the brushes is above 10 does it mean the brushes are bad and need to be replaced? also would bad brushes get me bad readings on r1&r2, l1&l2 and so on...? thanks for your answer
+Jeremie Bricout (FireFrenchy) We think it is best you call us to discuss it with an Engineer. Contact your local office via our website. www.generatorguru.com/ :)
Good footage and really helpful. I have just tested my generator that wont give power. Across the brushes 4.8 volts. L1 and L2 11.3 volts. R1 and R2 2.2 volts. R1 and L1 7.8 volts. Just need to work out now what that actually does mean 😀
Thanks a lot for all of the fault finding techniques. Really appreciate it. I have one query and here it is. What will be the likely conclusion if I don't get any reading(0 Volts) with the brushes and the windings??
As your results are showing a low voltage, we suggest you “Flash” your alternator. Follow the steps below: 1. To re-excite your alternator, we suggest you only use this method, as described by Generac Generators on RUclips: ruclips.net/video/-LR62sm7USU/видео.html 2. Run the generator for 20 minutes without load to stabilize the magnetic field in the Alternator. 3. Test with a suitable appliance to make sure the load is stable. If not go to step 4. 4. Repeat our tests: www.generatorguru.com/help-me-fix-my-generator-repair-advice/ If results are below 1 Vac, repeat step 1. If this continues please contact us. If results are between 1-7 Vac, but you are not getting full voltage at the sockets, then you will need to replace your AVR/Capacitor. If results are above 8-10 Vac range, then you will need to replace your AVR/Capacitor. But be warned that the high reading will damage the AVR/Capacitor over time. This could result in it lasting a fraction of the time expected on a stable alternator. If results are above 10 Vac range, be sure you removed the AVR/Capacitor before testing. If you have and are receiving this result, we suggest you take your generator to a “Motor Rewind” company for repair. You can find your local Motor Rewinding company by doing a search on the internet for “Motor Rewind.” It is worth asking for a quote from a few Motor Rewind companies as their prices can vary greatly.
Hi, great video. I have a Generac 2500ff. Its putting out about 90 volts through the 240 outlet? (Can find the AV but not the brushes! Any advice please?
Dear Geoff I would expect you to have a capacitor, not an AVR, in this case, can I please ask you to look at the video below www.generatorguru.com/help-me-fix-my-generator-repair-advice/ Run the test in the 1st video and let me know your results, please.
Thank you for the video. Just a quick question, you say the AVR protects everything, when I used the generator yesterday and it worked fine...although i may have overloaded the machine, so what I am understanding, it is the AVR is probably blown...do I need to do all tests or can I just replace the avr...the machine has not really worked that much, or do you suggest I do all the tests
Hello! Good question. 99% of the time it is just the AVR as the alternator has been overloaded, but run the test if you think you can smell electrical burning or if you have replaced the AVR recently, or just want to be sure before you replace the AVR. Overloading is the most common issue so be sure that you try to only load the generator 2/3 of max watts stated on the generator (unless it is a GENUINE "Honda Generator" i.e. not just the engine but the whole generator, as they already rate theirs at 2/3 power for you. They rock!) This allows for surges when things like motors start. Whenever you start anything there is a surge, and if it has a motor (like in fridges, freezers, drills, tools) it normally takes about double the running watts to start it. Other stuff takes less and they do not need to move anything, just excite their components. (Honda have an online calculator you can use.) If you calculate that you have not overloaded it, you might need to get your equipment checked for faults. A fault in anything attached can cause an AVR to fail. IF YOU ARE IN THE EU OR AUZ OR NZ- Please also be aware there are many generators being sold on selling sites and "side of road" sales that are mislabelled and a scam. They will do this by putting a model number like 8500w to make it look like they give out that amount, when in fact they only give our about 2.8kw. If you are suspicious as to what your generator gives out and it keeps blowing AVRs or Capacitors, please contact us on our website www.generatorguru.com and we will be happy to identify it for you. (Hint - these are mainly common in EU. Framed versions that have a 3 phase sockets and 3 x 240v plug sockets. There are also Inverter versions that are sold as 2000w but have a capacitor under the side flap (i.e. not an inverter and built to only give out 750w). Please contact us for full info on these units. They can still be used at lower power, but there are safety things you need to know if they have a 3 phase socket!)
thanks to generator guru. your video is very much educational, please i need your assistance. i bought a working core and armeture and core for 2.5-3.0 kva generator but i am having deficulty on the connection of the core and panel
Hi Generator Guru. I have the exact same generator as you have in your very informative video. My problem is that when the motor is running and I go to turn the circuit breaker switch for the 240V to on, an awful grinding noise happenes and the switch trips immediately. Any ideas? Please help.
Does it have 2 poles on the windings (i.e. L1 and L2 And R1 and R2). If so then one of your windings sound like they have broken. Test the continuity on each set to see if one has snapped.
Hi. Great video. Very informative. Im trying to repair a generator very similar to the 1 in the video. i think it is probably the avr but when i test the voltages with the avr disconnected i get 1-2 volts between L1 and R1. is that anything to be concerned about or not. all other voltages are 3-4 volts
Thanks for the video. I tested my wurzburg W-8500 and got: 1) 4.4vac 2) 9.8vac 3) 8vac 4) 10vac. Any Idea what's up with my geni? Have you got a wiring diagram of the winding? Cheers. Sam
I have a question I got a champion 4 k generator it just started doing this out of the blue when you put a 1100 watt load on the initial startup my window ac unit on the generator makes a buzz like sound coming out of the generator head what is causing this? now if I run my coffee maker that's pulling 1500 watts continuous it's absolutely fine?
+Brandon Setzenfand We think it is best you call us to discuss it with an Engineer. Contact your local office via our website. www.generatorguru.com/ :)
Rotor needs attention.. Windings may not but need to fix rotor and re-test. Check the diodes on the rotor and replace if possible. This should fix it for you. Some do not have the diodes showing. If that is the case take the rotor and winding to your local "motor rewind" company and they should be able to rebuild it for you. Hope this helps :)
i have a problem with my genset..... its only 30kva brushtype... but has no voltage output... i disconnected avr.. and performed field flashing ... i supplied to the rotor 12vdc just for seconds.. and i got only 100vac low to its rating 220vac... without the supplied 12vdc at the rotor i only get 1.5vac output,, too low for an avr to work on.. i did check the brushes but they were dam good... no loose connections.. rotor resistance is 3.5ohms... .do ihave to repair the whole alternator... can i ask some advise for some of your experience? i need some ASP!
I ]'m wondering what the electrical problem is when my Predator 6500 watt genset produces about 20 volts on the rotor when checked running as in the video? Will there be shorted windings then?
Hi, I have a yamaha ef1000is that spins freely with the inverter unplugged but is like pulling molasses with it pluged in. I've also read that sometime was told it was the stator that was causing the resistance. what do you think?
Dear Sir This is usually the stator on bigger framed generators, but on inverter generators, the stator very very rarely goes wrong, this is almost always the inverter at fault
Do you have a voltage changeover switch? If so make sure it is set to 110/120v. If you do not have a switch there may be a reading on R1-L1. This means we cannot test if the windings are arcing.
Ed Lewandowski Yes it is low but an AVR should rectify it for you. We are much more worried if the voltage is too high. The breaker position does not make a difference to the readings.
I have a 4000watt predator generator. Ran great for 2 years but at the end of Hunting season I had an electric heater plugged in I my camper and when it kicked back on it ran wide open all of a sudden and I'm not sure if it was making any electricity or not. I need to get it going so I can run my devices at camp. Could you help me with a starting point? Thank you for your time and educational teachings which by the way are great. Thank you!
Please contact us for help on our website to open a ticket with a senior engineer. www.generatorguru.com/need-help/ We will require the result from running the tests in this video to help you. Please provide this with your enquiry. ruclips.net/video/tC_LrrZcx38/видео.html&lc=Ugwo15WlXUwe1A7d1kh4AaABAg :)
Sure am stumped. The video really taught me a lot I didn't know thank you! but looks like I have 1.3v at the brushes (brand new brushes just replaced.) also Which lead is positive on brushes? I heard closest to you and closest to bearing. and 1.7 at l1 and l2 and same for r1and r2 and 3.1 r1 and l1. This goes the same voltage all the way to the plugs. I check everything behind the panel breakers and al checked out good. Confused avr takes 12v ac and turns to D.C. Right? Or no? I believe I'm getting about 6v D.C. Coming out avr. I checked stator it is not grounding out and .01 ohm resistance between each legs with panel wires removed for ground. Only thing I can think of is I have not checked the 12v or 3rd coil. It acts like it's not got a magnetic field. Any help would be appreciated.
Dear Sir/Madam, As your Alternator has failed the tests, you need to contact a local “Motor Rewind Company” to see if they can fix it. These companies can vary in price, so if you have time, it is worth getting a few quotes. This is a much cheaper option than replacing the Alternator as the manufacturer charges over ½ the price of a new Generator and we would still need to get it shipped to you from China. Being so heavy, that would be very expensive and outweighs the economy of a new Alternator.
Hi! I really liked the video its full of information, but I need some more information from you if possible, that my generator speed is too fast and it creates a lot of noise when I put on the load on it, someone told me to fix the speed through the screw near the carbonator. So would you please tell me anything which really help me out.
We thank you for your interest in our help videos. Unfortunately, due to limitations in RUclipss comment sections, we are unable to quickly
answer questions in the comments. Please feel free to contact us directly here: www.generatorguru.com/need-help/
PLEASE NOTE: You cannot test the AVR without a very expensive piece of kit called a Megga meter. This is why you need to do these tests to make sure there is no other problems in the Alternator. This will discount any other problems leaving the only possibility being the AVR.
you need to show,or tell,what happens when certain items blow. . my geni reved up. trying to find out why. the shop said,its chinese,buy another. there not interested. its remote start,key,pull,3.500 w. inverter. i have an old subaru,10 yrs,still going,but noisy as hell. 5kva. need a more portable geni. so bought the inverter.small suitcase size.
I have never commented on any of the hundreds (if not thousands) of RUclips videos I've watched, but I am beyond grateful for this. I promised a client of mine that I would fix his generator, which I've never done before. More than 5 hours and many YT videos later, I still hadn't figured out the issue. The brushes were shot, everything else had continuity. Replaced the brushes, but still no power. You are the ONLY person I found that pointed out that the positive wire always goes on the left side of the brushes. I just hooked them up how they were before (another shop tried to repair). All of a sudden, IT WORKED!!! So, thank you so much for your help. Very grateful for you.
💯
I am so glad we could help! If you need any other info we have an interactive help centre which can help you fix most generator issues: generatorguru.com/need-help/>Engineering
Thank you a thousand times!! You were very instructive in every phase of showing how to properly troubleshoot a generator. You even took the time to show the proper settings on the multimeter for anyone who needed help. Your a blessing. GOD bless you.
I find it interesting that people who really understand what they are doing make great simple instructors. No complicated garble that the watcher doesn’t understand anyway.
Thanks! *blush
this is actually helpful. every other video I've been finding requires jumper cables to test the AVR. didn't think about testing the generator itself.
Thank you so much! This video saved me weeks of ordering parts, dropping them in and finding out they didn’t fix it. You are the best!
Thank you so much for your Comment! I have patted my team on the back and passed your thoughtful thanks onto them. We really appreciate you letting us know.
Would you be able to leave a review for us on trustpilot? We have recently signed up with them and would like to spread the word and help save more Generators. If you could be so kind, please leave a review via this page uk.trustpilot.com/review/generatorguru.com
Thanks again for your feedback!!
Generator Guru back in the early 70s, I was taught by my grandfather, how to rebuild generators, alternators and starters, with the simplest tools available, close to 50 years I've only had to replace one generator to an alternator, switching over a 1960 Ford F-100 Excellent video, really enjoyed it.
Hi Dale
Thank you for the comment, I would love to hear more about it, a lot of people get stuck with the lesser known or unbranded generators as many rewind companies do not want to touch them so charge high prices for repairs to push people away and many people find themselves with a unit that is no use to anyone but not worth the repair costs
This has been the best instructional video I have found on you tube. Thank you for taking the time to demonstrate the testing. Now I have a question not really covered. I have 4.7 v to both the R1R2 and L1 L2 and 0v on R1L1 but I only am getting 1.7v across the brushes. The surface that the brushes are riding on are smooth. I thought these were grooved. I am looking forward to your expertise on this.
Gary
Thanks for the feedback! R1 and L1 should be 0 vac if you have a voltage changeover switch and set it to the lowest setting. These results indicate you need a new AVR. The AVR should bring up the rotor to 5vac also if you run it for 20 mins without load to stabilize the magnetic field. Your brushes will be smooth where they connect to the rotor, but be sure they have enough play in them to make a good connection. If you are still having any trouble please let us know and we will be happy to advise you further. :)
Sorry I should have added that I have already replaced the AVR. This unit has only been used a short time. brushes are not even worn in yet.So are you saying I should run it 20 minutes with the new AVR? one last question. This John Deere 6200 watt runs wide open all the time. Is that normal?
Generator Guru sir i changed the Generator AVR but the voltage is still not stable ..when i start some things on it becomes decreasing voltage from 220 to 195..
i think the AVR frequency is not set... how i set that frequency
Thank You! Finally a video on fixing a generator with brushes that makes sense. I am finally now able to narrow down what the actual problem is. It is the AVR. Thank you again for the awesome video.
Straight to the point and a very good guide for generator troubleshooting. You have earned a sub!
Thanks brother.. Very well explained.. Great effort.. You saved my generator from selling lol
Subscribed your channel 👍
The diodes on your rotor have blown. Check to see if they are accessible (usually on the end of the rotor or the fan end) if so replace them. If they are "in" the rotor you can take the rotor and windings to your local "motor rewind" company and they can rebuild it for you. But worth calling g a few companies as price varies greatly!
Followed your tests and ended up replacing AVR .Bingo, fixed it.$17 .Thanks
Nice work!
Hi, Generator is outputting around 3.5- 4V on the brushes and 4 - 5 V on the L1, L2, R1, R2 and when I tested the L1 - R1 I was also getting 4 V but im only getting 8V on the 230V output on the generator. what could this error be?
Exactly what I needed and right to the point I wish 99% of the other instructional videos were like this one !
Aw! Thanks sop much!
We DO want the test in volts (AC. v~). I keep getting emails saying otherwise, but we are doing a different test.
I had a loose terminal on a new duromax 8500 which fried the avr.. They sent a new one but it was only putting out 109 volts on both sides . The avr had an small adjusting screw and I turned it and adjusted it to 120 . Works perfect now.. Thanks for the video
Ummmm.... you should not be adjusting that screw! They are set at the factory and now you have just changed the hertz output!!! That is not good!!!!!
IF IT HAD CORRECT VOLTAGE BEFORE THE AVR BLEW - Run the test in this video and follow relevant steps below.
IF GENERATOR IS COMPLETELY BRAND NEW:
Best to set it back to 109 then adjust the speed by the top screw on the carb. Use voltmeter to set to the correct voltage.
Before you do that. be sure good fuel flow is coming from the tank as the Petcock has a filter behind it which might be blocked.
IF GENERATOR HAS RUN FOR MORE THAN 1 HOUR:
If you were getting low power and it is NOT totally brand new, but has some running time on it, this is what you need to check:
1) it needs servicing. (1st service best done at 50 hours as loads of metal shaving are produced as it settles in) - see ruclips.net/video/ioAgCqPhUfg/видео.html
2) The engine has settled in and valves need resetting. This needs doing after about 1st 50 hours - see valve setting on our website and follow this video: ruclips.net/video/mYrdnPVmaDs/видео.html
If you need more help please contact us on generatorguru.com/need-help/ and we can assign you an engineer. :)
The generator is running at 60 to 61 hertz. This was tested with an Ideal sure tester
I have the same problem 60Hz but voltage is good @@roberttreadwell3252
nice one
Thank you,
With your help I located the brushes on the Hyundai 7000 and cleaned them so it works again.
Genpower were useless and argued over warranty times so much for the platinum warranty!
Kind regards
Andy
Thank you for your feedback! We pride ourselves on "Good old-fashioned customer care!"We strive every day to save generators and other machinery from being scrapped due to parts not being available. It helps every-ones pockets and prevents tons of CO2 being added to our ecosystem!
Hey man. Thank you. You made my day. I didn't loose magnetism, just had to change the avr (because i mistakenly connect the public power source to my generator. Turned the thing into a motor in a flash ruining my avr in the process. . That's a awesome guy you got there. (the black cutie) Thanks a lot
Very good demo. Nice, clear explanation. I thought I might mention though - that the rotor is not "otherwise known as the stator". The part you call "the windings" are the stationary part of the generator - the stator. The rotating part of a generator or a motor is the rotor - whether it has windings, permanent magnets or a squirrel cage structure.
Hi Ralph
Thanks for getting in touch! A few people have pointed it out over the years, a bit of a slip of the tongue we didn't spot until after we had posted the video, it used to have a little tag at that point in the video apologising but youtube seems to have dropped the captions off and won't let us replace them as its convinced they are still there!
That was a very well explained and informative video. It removes some of the mystery about what's inside the alternator, and teaches the ordinary lamer some basic troubleshooting tips. Thank you.
this is the first video i have seen on generators having a problem with mine and youre the best so far fully understand everything
Thank you for the feedback!
Thank you for your excellent and most helpful video. I tested my Firman 4550/3650 and the results were not what I was hoping for. Across the brushes 13.28 L1/2 .38 R1/2 .34 and I didn’t bother measuring L1/R1. Please confirm my worst nightmare about this generator. Thank you again for sharing your time and knowledge.
Sorry! The rotor diode has blown. If you can see it on the end of the rotor you can remove and replace, or take it to a motor rewind shop and ask if they can change it for you. :)
@@Generatorguru thank you. Have a merry Christmas.
What's that you say? Ahhh! Now I can hear you. I have to remember not to test my AVR on a windy day I guess...THANK YOU!! very content rich. Love that.
Stephen,
Thanks for getting in touch.
Yes, we find on some computers the sound works perfectly, and on others it is impossible to hear. If you have any questions please contact us www.generatorguru.com/need-help/.
We have in planning stage, a new version of this video and a poster for step by step instructions.
Thanks for your feedback! Hope it was helpful even with the sound quality. :)
+Rick Saffery
You cannot test the AVR without a very expensive piece of kit called a Megga meter. This is why you need to do these tests to make sure there is no other problems in the Alternator. This will discount any other problems leaving the only possibility being the AVR.
Generator Guru my UST 2300 reads 145-190 vac and HZ reads 75-79 time to scrap it?
John,
These are the results without the AVR attached during testing? If not please test without it attached, if so, then follow the next step.
If the hertz are that high then we would be questioning the speed of the engine. First, check the Governor Rod and all springs are in good order (especially the one over the rod to the top of the carb as a little play in the spring will greatly affect this.) Also, service the engine to be sure that nothing has gunked up the governor which sits inside the engine as this adjusts the speed.
In North America, you want 60hz (50hz for European or Auz regions) so you need to slow down the engine if neither of the above is the case. On your generator, you can do this with the screw at the top of the carb. Turn slowly anticlockwise until you get the desired Hz. If this does not work you will need to replace the governor inside the engine.
If you need parts we hold them for your generator. You can buy online on www.generatorguru.com/
Great video.. now I’m headed out to the shop to use what I just learned on a generator. Thank You
Glad we could help
I agree that this is the best instructional video. Might want to do it for companies and get paid for it.
Thanks to you and this tutorial my generator works again. Greetings from Holland.
nice video. The only technicality I see is your explanation of a rotor and stator, two distinctly different parts. Keep up the great work! This was a very informative video!
Yeah I got nervous during filming. I did add a note over it on youtube, just after I uploaded the video, to say I got them mixed up but over the years it seems to have disappeared with all the updates that RUclips have done. Thanks for pointing it out. I will try to get that reinstated. :)
So nice video..thanks teacher..i continue following you from República Dominicana..
hi from argentina, your video was very helpful to me, you explain very well all the trobleshooting, thumb up for you, thanks
Excellent video. I learned so much and learned how to diagnose my generator properly... Thanks generatorguru!!
Hi, I have a 3KW Suntom single phase diesel generator. It was ok, but now only producing 85Volts AC. I have followed your instructions, I have 1 volt across brushes, brushes ok. 4.8 Volts on L1 L2. 4.9 Volts on R1 R2 0Volts R1 L1. Do I need a new Rotor?.
Very explicit and concise. You're the best.bless you
I am very much curious, how much resistance reading is expected across the slip rings of the rotor, and does it vary, depending on the power rating of the generator? Very informative video by the way, thanks for the clear demonstration.
Thanks!! Resistance varies from generator to generator, and not all generator companies publish them. Hence needing a better way to test the alternators, and we came up with this! It is called the "Beagley Alternator Testing Technique" and was invented by our company founder many many years ago! :)
Excellent video and obviously you know what your doing and gave great advise. Thanks for sharing.
Can you please clarify what the n v v u represent. Also which generator (make and model) do you have?
Your rectifier is reading a bit high. I would suggest replacing it.
What are the symptom of bad brushes? I recently replaced my AVR. I did not replace the brushes as the ones that came with the AVR seemed awful cheap. Now I'm curious if I should have replaced them anyways.
If you run the test on the Armature (Rotor) with the brushes fitted you should get a constant 5vac. If not replace the brushes. If you have any questions you can contact us via www.GeneratorGuru.com and we will pair you with an Engineer who will work through it with you. :)
I appreciate your video I tested across the brushes and got 3.1 v, L1&L2 1.45v, R1&R2 .2 v, R1&L1 .2v. Any advice based on those readings
Excellent video. I would have appreciated better close-up shots but I think it was good enough to give me the general idea.
Hey thanks for the info We will try to rectify this in future. :)
(PS. sorry about the delay in answering, for some reason RUclips sent this question to the "junk" folder. We apologise for the inconvenience.)
Generator guru gave me more help with my hyundai generator that the importers of the generator.
So happy we could help! Thanks for the feedback!
@@Generatorguru How are you with hyundai diesel engine parts?
I get 94mv DC from brushes which move and look like new. It's a very steady 94mv too. I get 4.14V AC from tests #2 and #3. I get 0v AC from #4. Unit is 3 years old and only got used when new for a few hours. Looks exactly like the one you are working on. I did have it set to 110V like you said. I know AC from DC and I also had the + wire to brushes marked from the OEM. Is the left one too. The rotor assembly is USD $180. Is that the problem here from the info I am giving you? Rotor is clean and shiny. Very clean unit, stored inside. The brown wire(bottom nut) had a bit of rust and corrosion. Is clean now. Great video, only of it's kind!!
What are you getting in Volts AC on the brushes? In need this to tell you what the state of your rotor is. The other tests (on the windings) are good, so there is not problem there. Look forward to hearing from you.
Very helpfull. I have a DG6, it looks like I have to remove the muffler first to access the end of the Alternator.
Thanks for your help.
David from NZ
If you have the super-silent version, You might be able to find the Capacitor (or AVR in some models) from the back panel held on by the 10mm bolts (some models only). If not you will have to remove the exhaust... sorry.
thankyou very much for your effort and sharing nice video. but i was little bit puzzled during video how can multimeter gives 5,10 volts without any supply. please elucidate this point.
+wajahat hussain This is a good RUclips video which explains how an Alternator works: ruclips.net/video/tiKH48EMgKE/видео.html. There will be a residual voltage which is what we test.
If the slip rings are dirty will this effect the test results?
I was running my heater off my generator (3000 watts)for about an hour when the heater when off. I checked the generator and it was running and smoking so I shut it off. Would that indicate my windings or alternator is burnt? Great video, very educational.
Yes, you will need to get the alternator rewound by a Motor Rewind shop. It is arcing and burning the varnish on the windings.
Hi, I've inspected everything and it all looks good. The generator is very new, used only a few times but it's been sitting in the shed for a few years. Does it sound like the AVR is gone? Would that horrible noise I described come from the generator if the AVR was gone?
Helpful video. Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Guru, Thanks for this informative video. I have a generator with 220v and 400v. outlets. No power on the outlets. I measured 2,2 v on the brushes. L1-L2 16,2 v, R1-R2 9,0v R1-L1 16,3v (and R2-L2 8,8v). I understand this readings are a bit high and now I should investigate the windings. Is that right?
In your video you said that I must contact you, how I can do that. Can you help me with that?
Kind regards
Dick Terweij
Very good explanation of the fault, will serve me much thanks
Always happy to help!
Was your voltage changeover switch on the lowest setting? If so you windings need replacing. L1 & R1 should = 0v ac
Excelente explicación, sencillo y concreto
Thanks! If you need any further help or parts, please visit us at www.generatorguru.com. :)
No the L1 & R1 reading tells me the windings are arcing. Remove the winding and have a look to see if anything has got ground up between the long fins. If so remove carefully and reassemble. DO NOT USE OIL ON THESE PARTS! (you may not but many do, and oil and electric do not mix!) If this is not what has happened take the winding and the rotor to your local motor rewind company to be rewound. Hope this helps! If you need any more help call us. Our website lists our number. :)
hello this video helped me out in a big way thank you... i have a tested brushes and the winding here are my results L1&L2 16.3. R1&R2.099 R1&L1.191 across the brushes 75.4.... if i heard right you said if the brushes read higher then the windings it would be the rotor?
Sorry for the delay in responding. We have had a few technical issues on our RUclips and were unable to respond. Yes you are correct the rotor is failing.
As your Alternator has failed the tests, you need either replace the rotor, or to contact a local “Motor Rewind Company” to see if they can fix it. These companies can vary in price, so if you have time, it is worth getting a few quotes.
Hello,
Great video, thank you for taking the time for doing this. I would like to get your thoughts on the Harbor Freight generators. I have the 8K one and have had it a couple of years and it has been great, but it is a cheap chinese unit. I recently moved in to a house that looses power alot in the winter. I was thinking of upgrading the brushes and AVR to a US made parts to try to keep the unit reliable, would you recommend doing this? If so, who would you recommend getting parts from? Also, what are your thoughts on propane conversion kit? I have read mixed reviews. Finally, how long would you run a generator for? I just had a power outage for 6 days with an outside temp of 20F, pretty much ran the unit 24/7, only shutting it down for about 20 min every 8hrs to add gas and check the oil.
Thank you,
Mark
You can run your generator continuously so long as the engine has good air flow and you do not need to stop it to refuel. The propane conversion kits are very good (not for Natuaral Gas, just propane) and can save money depending on fuel costs in your area. There are not US made brushes or AVRs for this unit but you will find that the brushes and AVR are of a good quality and will last so long as you do not overload the generator or allow it to overheat. Please be aware Harbor Freight is not the generator brand name, it is a shop that sells many different good generator brands. To find grade "A" parts and spares for your generator, please look on the control panel to find the Brand name of the unit and the model code, and look up the name here. www.generatorguru.com/categories/Make-%26-Model/
:)
Thanks for the informative video. I am an experienced motorcycle mechanic, but wasn't sure what to look for in testing why my xp4400e generator was only producing 40 volts at the outlets. The tests you prescribed here showed all within normal operating parameters, is it your opinion that my AVR has quit?
Thanks again!
Hi Thanks for the great Video, after following your great instructions I have come to the conclusion that my AVR is toast, I have an old Colman Powermate 5000 which i can no longer get parts for, my question is, can i fit a substitute of equal output ? thanks for any help.
Please contact our Engineers by submitting a ticket here: generatorguru.zendesk.com/hc/en-us
We will assign you an Engineer to work through the issue with you. We do not charge for this service. :)
Thanks *Blush.*
He is 1/2 German Shepard, 1/4 Lab, and 1/4 Rotti. He is 8 years old now, and accepts that I talk to a tripod... Don't you love dogs, they accept you for who you are without question, even when you look nuts and talk to yourself.
Thanks for your feedback
Very usefull video, thanks a lot for your teachings.
You are welcome
Probably 1 of the most helpful and easy to understand videos I've seen. Especially as I'm trying to diagnose my genny which has stopped producing power. I've tried the drill technique and I've tried the flash with a battery after disconnecting the avr. Neither have worked. Tho the genny did produce power for the few seconds I flashed it with the battery. So now I'm wondering if the avr is fried as we noticed water in the extension lead that was plugged into it. So I'm thinking that has sorted out the avr to protect the alternator like you just mentioned it should!
For fault finding or technical advice, feel free to contact us using the link below
www.generatorguru.com/need-help/
This will allow our engineers to review your query and give you the best possible advice!
Thanks for the video, this is one of the better, more informative videos on this subject! The service manual for my EB6500SX is about $150, USED, so, you might have saved me that money!
Glad it helped
Verry good !!!! thanks s lot , mam
Always happy to help! FYI... We also have loads more info on repairs and maintenance on your website if you ever need it. :) www.generatorguru.com/need-help/
Woow im going to check my Generator !! Thanks for the video!
Hi, Very clear explanation!
I had 210 instead of 230 Vac on my generator output.
All values of stator and rotor were fine. So, I raised the output voltage up to 230Vac by adjusting the potentionmeter screw on the AVR.
So far so good, but now the 12Vdc 8.3A output is giving me too much voltage: 21Vdc.
I assume this is a consequence of adjusting the AVR. Is there a way of to get the voltage back to 12Vdc without lowering also the AC output voltage? (Off course I could solder some resistor in series with the rectifier but that seems like an uneconomic solution...)
For your information: I tested the diodes on the rectifier bridge that goes to the 12Vdc output and all 4 diodes seam fine.
Generator: GENERMORE, CF6500
Thanks in advance!
You AVR is failing and needs to be replaced. There is no fix without replacing it for a new one. We do hold AVRs for Genermore Generators and would be happy to help you. You will need to contact our engineer to identify your particular AVR as they made this generator with 3 different alternators over the years. Please contact us on www.generatorguru.com/need-help/
If you have a capacitor then you need to have a look at my video for Brushless Generator Testing.
You cannot fit an AVR unit to a brushless alternator without replacing the whole alternator and wiring system. It would be cheaper to buy an new generator, and a lot less hassle!
Hope this helps!
I have a predator 4000. I'm getting 1.0 v at the brushes, approximately 4.0v at the other three tests. L1 l2, r1 r2, l1 r1. Can you explain the out of range brush 1.0 volts and l1 r1 is above 0v sitting at 4.0v please?
Don't cry! Yes you are correct in some countries it is called the Stator. It is also known as the armature and the rotor. We sell all over the world so use all these terms.
I seem to have a problem, I'm using a gentech 5kw alternator (with a honda 9HP engine) and i noticed that the generators voltage drops to almost 180v~ from 250v~ under 3 kw load, The engine doesn't seem to bog down, however, when i pulled a small bit on the throttle, the voltage rises a fair bit (i didn't want to push it past 260v) I initially thought the Regulator was bad, so i opened it up, however there didn't seem to be a regulator in sight! the only thing i did see was a large capacitor (something you would find on an induction motor for starting)
Any ideas?
My only answer would be that the regulator is perhaps between the engine and Alternator cooling fan?
(also there was no brushes that i could see at the back of the alternator, but there was an exciter winding.
Thanks Tau
Can you call us? We would love to help and talk you through it!
Our full contact details can be found on our "Contact Us" page here: www.generatorguru.com/ask-the-guru/
Usted tiene un excelente canal, muchas gracias por compartir,
Saludos desde Veracruz México.
Gracias por sus amables comentarios.
Thank you for your kind feedback.
Great video! I am working on a generac gp5500 with no output. I get 1.7 volts from the recepticales. Following your video I tested the brushes (0 volts) L1 1.7 volts, L2 1.7 volts and L1-R1 1.7 volts. Pretty much every where I am getting 1.7 volts. With only my positive lead on the brushes I am getting 15 volts but as soon as I connect the neg lead my meter (fluke 88) drops to 0Volts. Any ideas? I tried to use the drill technique with no luck - All my readings do not match any of your suggested readings. Sounding to me like my alternator is not creating any power what so ever?
David
hello, little question for you, if the reading on the brushes is above 10 does it mean the brushes are bad and need to be replaced? also would bad brushes get me bad readings on r1&r2, l1&l2 and so on...? thanks for your answer
+Jeremie Bricout (FireFrenchy) We think it is best you call us to discuss it with an Engineer. Contact your local office via our website. www.generatorguru.com/ :)
Good footage and really helpful. I have just tested my generator that wont give power. Across the brushes 4.8 volts. L1 and L2 11.3 volts. R1 and R2 2.2 volts. R1 and L1 7.8 volts. Just need to work out now what that actually does mean 😀
You alternator has blown. Sorry! You need to either replace it or take it to a motor rewind company to see if they can fix it for you. :(
Thanks a lot for all of the fault finding techniques.
Really appreciate it.
I have one query and here it is. What will be the likely conclusion if I don't get any reading(0 Volts) with the brushes and the windings??
As your results are showing a low voltage, we suggest you “Flash” your alternator. Follow the steps below:
1. To re-excite your alternator, we suggest you only use this method, as described by Generac Generators on RUclips: ruclips.net/video/-LR62sm7USU/видео.html
2. Run the generator for 20 minutes without load to stabilize the magnetic field in the Alternator.
3. Test with a suitable appliance to make sure the load is stable. If not go to step 4.
4. Repeat our tests: www.generatorguru.com/help-me-fix-my-generator-repair-advice/
If results are below 1 Vac, repeat step 1. If this continues please contact us.
If results are between 1-7 Vac, but you are not getting full voltage at the sockets, then you will need to replace your AVR/Capacitor.
If results are above 8-10 Vac range, then you will need to replace your AVR/Capacitor. But be warned that the high reading will damage the AVR/Capacitor over time. This could result in it lasting a fraction of the time expected on a stable alternator.
If results are above 10 Vac range, be sure you removed the AVR/Capacitor before testing. If you have and are receiving this result, we suggest you take your generator to a “Motor Rewind” company for repair. You can find your local Motor Rewinding company by doing a search on the internet for “Motor Rewind.” It is worth asking for a quote from a few Motor Rewind companies as their prices can vary greatly.
Hi, great video. I have a Generac 2500ff. Its putting out about 90 volts through the 240 outlet? (Can find the AV but not the brushes! Any advice please?
Dear Geoff
I would expect you to have a capacitor, not an AVR, in this case, can I please ask you to look at the video below
www.generatorguru.com/help-me-fix-my-generator-repair-advice/
Run the test in the 1st video and let me know your results, please.
Thank you for the video. Just a quick question, you say the AVR protects everything, when I used the generator yesterday and it worked fine...although i may have overloaded the machine, so what I am understanding, it is the AVR is probably blown...do I need to do all tests or can I just replace the avr...the machine has not really worked that much, or do you suggest I do all the tests
Hello! Good question. 99% of the time it is just the AVR as the alternator has been overloaded, but run the test if you think you can smell electrical burning or if you have replaced the AVR recently, or just want to be sure before you replace the AVR.
Overloading is the most common issue so be sure that you try to only load the generator 2/3 of max watts stated on the generator (unless it is a GENUINE "Honda Generator" i.e. not just the engine but the whole generator, as they already rate theirs at 2/3 power for you. They rock!)
This allows for surges when things like motors start. Whenever you start anything there is a surge, and if it has a motor (like in fridges, freezers, drills, tools) it normally takes about double the running watts to start it. Other stuff takes less and they do not need to move anything, just excite their components. (Honda have an online calculator you can use.)
If you calculate that you have not overloaded it, you might need to get your equipment checked for faults. A fault in anything attached can cause an AVR to fail.
IF YOU ARE IN THE EU OR AUZ OR NZ-
Please also be aware there are many generators being sold on selling sites and "side of road" sales that are mislabelled and a scam. They will do this by putting a model number like 8500w to make it look like they give out that amount, when in fact they only give our about 2.8kw. If you are suspicious as to what your generator gives out and it keeps blowing AVRs or Capacitors, please contact us on our website www.generatorguru.com and we will be happy to identify it for you. (Hint - these are mainly common in EU. Framed versions that have a 3 phase sockets and 3 x 240v plug sockets. There are also Inverter versions that are sold as 2000w but have a capacitor under the side flap (i.e. not an inverter and built to only give out 750w). Please contact us for full info on these units. They can still be used at lower power, but there are safety things you need to know if they have a 3 phase socket!)
A great video, easy to follow. Please keep them coming
Great video Generator Guru! You got a new subscriber! Thank you!
thanks to generator guru. your video is very much educational, please i need your assistance. i bought a working core and armeture and core for 2.5-3.0 kva generator but i am having deficulty on the connection of the core and panel
Hi! Please contact us on www.generatorguru.com/contact-us/ and we will assign you an Engineer to help. :)
So it wasnt a typo...test #4 should produce 0 volts correct?
Thank you for the guide! Very helpful
Hi Generator Guru. I have the exact same generator as you have in your very informative video. My problem is that when the motor is running and I go to turn the circuit breaker switch for the 240V to on, an awful grinding noise happenes and the switch trips immediately. Any ideas? Please help.
Good job. When you take the reading, is the AVR pluged in or out ? Thanks
Does it have 2 poles on the windings (i.e. L1 and L2 And R1 and R2). If so then one of your windings sound like they have broken. Test the continuity on each set to see if one has snapped.
Hi. Great video. Very informative. Im trying to repair a generator very similar to the 1 in the video. i think it is probably the avr but when i test the voltages with the avr disconnected i get 1-2 volts between L1 and R1. is that anything to be concerned about or not. all other voltages are 3-4 volts
Thanks for the video. I tested my wurzburg W-8500 and got:
1) 4.4vac
2) 9.8vac
3) 8vac
4) 10vac.
Any Idea what's up with my geni? Have you got a wiring diagram of the winding? Cheers. Sam
Please set up a ticket with our Engineers to discuss further. (We do not charge for this service.)
www.generatorguru.com/need-help/
I have a question I got a champion 4 k generator it just started doing this out of the blue when you put a 1100 watt load on the initial startup my window ac unit on the generator makes a buzz like sound coming out of the generator head what is causing this? now if I run my coffee maker that's pulling 1500 watts continuous it's absolutely fine?
+Brandon Setzenfand We think it is best you call us to discuss it with an Engineer. Contact your local office via our website. www.generatorguru.com/ :)
Rotor needs attention.. Windings may not but need to fix rotor and re-test. Check the diodes on the rotor and replace if possible. This should fix it for you. Some do not have the diodes showing. If that is the case take the rotor and winding to your local "motor rewind" company and they should be able to rebuild it for you. Hope this helps :)
Good nice explanation, can you please tell me this four wires coming out of avr. Which color wires for? (two blue, one white & one yellow wires)
Hmmm... Ok lets assign your issue to one of our engineers. Please contact them to set up a ticket on generatorguru.com/need-help/.
Hi guru,Im getting between 3.5/3.8V across the brushes/L1 L2 R1 R2 and L1R1.....pointing to the AVR????
i have a problem with my genset..... its only 30kva brushtype... but has no voltage output... i disconnected avr.. and performed field flashing ... i supplied to the rotor 12vdc just for seconds.. and i got only 100vac low to its rating 220vac... without the supplied 12vdc at the rotor i only get 1.5vac output,, too low for an avr to work on.. i did check the brushes but they were dam good... no loose connections.. rotor resistance is 3.5ohms... .do ihave to repair the whole alternator... can i ask some advise for some of your experience? i need some ASP!
Hi Amber, Are you getting any reading across R1 and L1?
Fantastic explanation,
I ]'m wondering what the electrical problem is when my Predator 6500 watt genset produces about 20 volts on the rotor when checked running as in the video? Will there be shorted windings then?
Can you please contact us with a full set of results here www.generatorguru.com/need-help/
Regards
The Generator Guru Team
Hi, I have a yamaha ef1000is that spins freely with the inverter unplugged but is like pulling molasses with it pluged in. I've also read that sometime was told it was the stator that was causing the resistance. what do you think?
Dear Sir
This is usually the stator on bigger framed generators, but on inverter generators, the stator very very rarely goes wrong, this is almost always the inverter at fault
Styles Generator Guru bummer. thanks
Generator Guru, I get 1.7 VAC on all 4 tests R1 to L1 included. Honda EB5000 HELP! Thanks Ed
Do you have a voltage changeover switch? If so make sure it is set to 110/120v. If you do not have a switch there may be a reading on R1-L1. This means we cannot test if the windings are arcing.
Generator Guru Switch was set for 110v. Thanks for you quick reply. !.7 is low too isn't it?
Ed Lewandowski also should I have the breaker on or off on the control panel?
Ed Lewandowski
Yes it is low but an AVR should rectify it for you. We are much more worried if the voltage is too high. The breaker position does not make a difference to the readings.
I have a 4000watt predator generator. Ran great for 2 years but at the end of Hunting season I had an electric heater plugged in I my camper and when it kicked back on it ran wide open all of a sudden and I'm not sure if it was making any electricity or not. I need to get it going so I can run my devices at camp. Could you help me with a starting point? Thank you for your time and educational teachings which by the way are great. Thank you!
Please contact us for help on our website to open a ticket with a senior engineer. www.generatorguru.com/need-help/
We will require the result from running the tests in this video to help you. Please provide this with your enquiry. ruclips.net/video/tC_LrrZcx38/видео.html&lc=Ugwo15WlXUwe1A7d1kh4AaABAg
:)
Sure am stumped. The video really taught me a lot I didn't know thank you! but looks like I have 1.3v at the brushes (brand new brushes just replaced.) also Which lead is positive on brushes? I heard closest to you and closest to bearing. and 1.7 at l1 and l2 and same for r1and r2 and 3.1 r1 and l1. This goes the same voltage all the way to the plugs. I check everything behind the panel breakers and al checked out good. Confused avr takes 12v ac and turns to D.C. Right? Or no? I believe I'm getting about 6v D.C. Coming out avr. I checked stator it is not grounding out and .01 ohm resistance between each legs with panel wires removed for ground. Only thing I can think of is I have not checked the 12v or 3rd coil. It acts like it's not got a magnetic field. Any help would be appreciated.
Dear Sir/Madam,
As your Alternator has failed the tests, you need to contact a local “Motor Rewind Company” to see if they can fix it. These companies can vary in price, so if you have time, it is worth getting a few quotes.
This is a much cheaper option than replacing the Alternator as the manufacturer charges over ½ the price of a new Generator and we would still need to get it shipped to you from China. Being so heavy, that would be very expensive and outweighs the economy of a new Alternator.
Hi! I really liked the video its full of information, but I need some more information from you if possible, that my generator speed is too fast and it creates a lot of noise when I put on the load on it, someone told me to fix the speed through the screw near the carbonator.
So would you please tell me anything which really help me out.
Outstanding video, very helpful Thank you.