Good job! I bought a used 30" rer snapper... didn't know...the blade adapter was stripped and so was the spindle threads. I thought about just replacing the shaft $40, but the blade adaptor was going to be $85! so Got a complete new spindle assembly coming, with the adaptor for $122. I will probably watch your video again when it gets here. Thanks
I am going through this right now with my 2013 RE 210 33 inch mower. I bought reversible Channellock snap ring pliers to get those tough and usually rusty snap rings off of the spindle housing. I am currently waiting on parts. The spindle housing separated from the mounting plate not 3 months after I put a brand new engine on the mower. I'm getting pretty good at working on these.
That’s good. Yeah these can be a lot of work. I do believe that one of the main causes for the spindle breaking off was because the blade is so big and heavy. I know it’s designed like that but I think it has something to do with it
Been working on it today, one thing you show while re assembling the activation plate goes between the two large snap rings (and they were a pain in the butt to get off). I had to use a small screwdriver, a large screwdriver and some small channel locks to pry one end up and grab it with the channel locks and use the big screw driver to pry up the edges. Thanks I'll finish it tomorrow, you know old and fat now (It takes all day to do what I used to do all day)
The center nut doesn't need removed to remove the blade and you installed the two blade bolts upside down leaving the long side with threads on it pointing down where those threads will take a beating.
11:05 he puts the brake cup OVER the NON seated snap ring : ( if he keeps this he will have to go back & fix this ) BTW that piece he calls a "rubber piece" is the BRAKE BAND.
9:36 NICE weld, hope it holds, BUT what you are not aware of is that that plate you welded back on HAS to be no more than .030 perpendicular to the center of the shaft, because if it ISN'T when you bolt the blade back on the blade will not run true perpendicular to the ground & BTW, there is a grease filled bearing within 1/16 of that weld so you probably cooked the grease out of it, those tubes & flanges were welded completely empty, SORRY I worked AT the factory with ALL of these parts & assemblies so I hate to see folks going in the wrong direction that may cause them issues latter
11:57 He left ONE maybe more of the spindle shaft washers that are supposed to slide down the shaft & locate ON the top bearing inner race. Geeze, folks a PARTS MANUAL Illustration for YOUR SPECIFIC Model Series is a MUST if you are NOT familiar with these mowers, Shade Tree RUclips clips can screw you up and mess up NEW or GOOD parts
7:53 You do NOT have to remove the internal snap ring to remove the spindle housing assembly NOR do you have to remove the bottom center nut of the blade
You’re placing the washers in the wrong place upon assembly. they stack under the spindle before you put the cup housing on to keep it off of the bearing race.
rats, you didn't show how to remove the blade holder bar. It looks like it is threaded on - I have to remove mine - HOW do you keep the spindle shaft from turning???
10:42 THAT snap ring he is pointing to NEVER should of been pulled out, it was UNNECESSARY and also it looks like he DIDN'T get that ring SEATED in the groove. IF that ring pops out & it WILL if not seated the internal parts will begin to work out the bottom & I have SEEN that tube cut a groove into that brake cup on the back side
FOLKS before you do all this work, you CAN remove that spindle housing assembly WITHOUT taking that deck off, speaking as one who WORKED AT the factory, >> a) > b) > c) > d) > e)
There isn't anything wrong with explaining a repair procedure however, it helps to know the items and not call them something else. Also, you should have balanced the blade since it was hitting the deck. Great Job still.
Good job! I bought a used 30" rer snapper... didn't know...the blade adapter was stripped and so was the spindle threads. I thought about just replacing the shaft $40, but the blade adaptor was going to be $85! so Got a complete new spindle assembly coming, with the adaptor for $122. I will probably watch your video again when it gets here. Thanks
Awesome glad I could help. Sorry to hear about the threads being stripped
I am going through this right now with my 2013 RE 210 33 inch mower. I bought reversible Channellock snap ring pliers to get those tough and usually rusty snap rings off of the spindle housing. I am currently waiting on parts. The spindle housing separated from the mounting plate not 3 months after I put a brand new engine on the mower. I'm getting pretty good at working on these.
That’s good. Yeah these can be a lot of work. I do believe that one of the main causes for the spindle breaking off was because the blade is so big and heavy. I know it’s designed like that but I think it has something to do with it
Thanks for responding. I know how important that is since I have 4 of them. Keep moving ahead.
Been working on it today, one thing you show while re assembling the activation plate goes between the two large snap rings (and they were a pain in the butt to get off). I had to use a small screwdriver, a large screwdriver and some small channel locks to pry one end up and grab it with the channel locks and use the big screw driver to pry up the edges. Thanks I'll finish it tomorrow, you know old and fat now (It takes all day to do what I used to do all day)
Haha. Good info thank you
The center nut doesn't need removed to remove the blade and you installed the two blade bolts upside down leaving the long side with threads on it pointing down where those threads will take a beating.
Thanks for the great diy video!!!
11:05 he puts the brake cup OVER the NON seated snap ring : ( if he keeps this he will have to go back & fix this ) BTW that piece he calls a "rubber piece" is the BRAKE BAND.
9:36 NICE weld, hope it holds, BUT what you are not aware of is that that plate you welded back on HAS to be no more than .030 perpendicular to the center of the shaft, because if it ISN'T when you bolt the blade back on the blade will not run true perpendicular to the ground & BTW, there is a grease filled bearing within 1/16 of that weld so you probably cooked the grease out of it, those tubes & flanges were welded completely empty, SORRY I worked AT the factory with ALL of these parts & assemblies so I hate to see folks going in the wrong direction that may cause them issues latter
11:57 He left ONE maybe more of the spindle shaft washers that are supposed to slide down the shaft & locate ON the top bearing inner race. Geeze, folks a PARTS MANUAL Illustration for YOUR SPECIFIC Model Series is a MUST if you are NOT familiar with these mowers, Shade Tree RUclips clips can screw you up and mess up NEW or GOOD parts
7:53 You do NOT have to remove the internal snap ring to remove the spindle housing assembly NOR do you have to remove the bottom center nut of the blade
Did you spray red anti-rust paint under deck before putting blade back on? Looks like red paint
No, I just put red paint on the deck so it wouldn’t rust the weld away. It really doesn’t matter
You’re placing the washers in the wrong place upon assembly. they stack under the spindle before you put the cup housing on to keep it off of the bearing race.
rats, you didn't show how to remove the blade holder bar. It looks like it is threaded on - I have to remove mine - HOW do you keep the spindle shaft from turning???
The hardware ON the Snapper rider especially the blade assembly / spindle housing is NOT Metric hardware, it's what's called standard SAE sizes
You installed the blade bolts up side down
It’s a lawn mower, not the space shuttle
@@onlinesmallenginemechanics3999 love your response
10:42 THAT snap ring he is pointing to NEVER should of been pulled out, it was UNNECESSARY and also it looks like he DIDN'T get that ring SEATED in the groove. IF that ring pops out & it WILL if not seated the internal parts will begin to work out the bottom & I have SEEN that tube cut a groove into that brake cup on the back side
9:06 This guy says these spindle housings are "pretty universal" they are >>> NOT
That Plastic thing is your blade brake, and it's supposed to glued to the collar.
Ok, it wasn’t glued when I took it apart
FOLKS before you do all this work, you CAN remove that spindle housing assembly WITHOUT taking that deck off, speaking as one who WORKED AT the factory, >> a) > b) > c) > d) > e)
There isn't anything wrong with explaining a repair procedure however, it helps to know the items and not call them something else. Also, you should have balanced the blade since it was hitting the deck. Great Job still.
Blade was balanced off camera
@@onlinesmallenginemechanics3999 how do you balance the blade
@@brickstv3156 by buying a blade balancing tool
All he showed was how to take the spindle ass'y out. He never showed how to change the actual spindle