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how can you take the governor off? im putting the engine into a lawn mower since the original seized so this was my best bet.

All he showed was how to take the spindle ass'y out. He never showed how to change the actual spindle

Have owned my 2X 243cc Cub Cadet for going on 8 seasons. The only problem I had with it was the surging the 1st year so I drilled the main jet in the carburetor out the next size up and it’s ran like a top ever since.

I have had mine for over 8 years. Sounds to me your blaming your lack of maintenance on the generator. I own 4 generators of various capacities 700w to 9400w for different purposes. Key to keeping them running properly is to perform preventive maintenance every 3 months. Check the oil and Inspect them for any damage or worn parts and replace as necessary and run them under load for 20-30 minutes. Use fresh fuel. It doesn't have to be premium nor ethanol free nor do you have to fill the tank. I only put about a pint of fuel in the tank. When your done exercising the generator, remove the load and shut it off. Empty the fuel out of the fuel tank back into the gas can and drain the bowl of the carburetor as a minimum. Usually after draining the fuel, I position the generator so the fuel selector switch is lower than the rest of the generator and I run the generator until it runs out of gas and then empty the carburetor bowl. That way there isn't any fuel in the generator to go bad and mess anything up. The alcohol in the gas is "Hygroscopic". Hygroscopic refers to its ability to absorb moisture from the air. This is how water gets into your tank and carburetor and corrodes the metal. The alcohol also dried out the fuel lines and makes them brittle no matter which country they come from. Only the largest has electric start. This is the easiest of the three pull rope ones to start. I also empty any fuel I have in storage into my truck and put new fuel into my storage tanks with some stabilizer before exercising the generators. I also do any lawn or marine motors I have at the same time.

ziplock bag or a good sealed bag over the oil filter when you crack it loose will catch most if not all your leak from the oil filter being removed

I have a 3 stage cub cadet . It's a piece of junk. The blower outer band is already shot. The cables get water on the inside and freeze every year. And it's never left out its always in the shed. The tranny brakes have never been right. My 1970 old John Deere does a better job. So glad I kept that old Deere.

so you bought something and never tested it? Four years in the garage and then find out it doesn't start. Have the carburetor cleaned since you didn't store it correctly. Then found the spark plug was damaged due to incorrect storage again. As for the problem with the fuel line, maybe the fuel and recoil line should have been inspected since it has been over four years since it was bought? Maybe grandad didn't secure it correctly? As for the Black and Decker edger (12 amp probably) the stated amps is like 7 amps I believe? As for the flywheel nut being lost...maybe the drill start method was to blame as the generator started and the drill was now stopped? Oh! your video shows not to exceed 6.5 amps TOTAL MAX in big block RED letters! Must run and add fuel stabilizer sounds like good advice. Read the papers that came with the equipment is GOOD advice too! By the way I have one I have used for over ten years and it came in handy when we lost power. I ran a window ac with it and cooled us down.

11:57 He left ONE maybe more of the spindle shaft washers that are supposed to slide down the shaft & locate ON the top bearing inner race. Geeze, folks a PARTS MANUAL Illustration for YOUR SPECIFIC Model Series is a MUST if you are NOT familiar with these mowers, Shade Tree RUclips clips can screw you up and mess up NEW or GOOD parts

11:05 he puts the brake cup OVER the NON seated snap ring : ( if he keeps this he will have to go back & fix this ) BTW that piece he calls a "rubber piece" is the BRAKE BAND.

10:42 THAT snap ring he is pointing to NEVER should of been pulled out, it was UNNECESSARY and also it looks like he DIDN'T get that ring SEATED in the groove. IF that ring pops out & it WILL if not seated the internal parts will begin to work out the bottom & I have SEEN that tube cut a groove into that brake cup on the back side

9:36 NICE weld, hope it holds, BUT what you are not aware of is that that plate you welded back on HAS to be no more than .030 perpendicular to the center of the shaft, because if it ISN'T when you bolt the blade back on the blade will not run true perpendicular to the ground & BTW, there is a grease filled bearing within 1/16 of that weld so you probably cooked the grease out of it, those tubes & flanges were welded completely empty, SORRY I worked AT the factory with ALL of these parts & assemblies so I hate to see folks going in the wrong direction that may cause them issues latter

9:06 This guy says these spindle housings are "pretty universal" they are >>> NOT <<< you need the housing assembly or just the housing for YOUR SPECIFIC Model Series Deck size, locations of grooves, spacers, length of the shaft itself etc was changed through out the years, Jim Jackson also gives out allot of MISINFORMATION about these Snappers

7:53 You do NOT have to remove the internal snap ring to remove the spindle housing assembly NOR do you have to remove the bottom center nut of the blade

The hardware ON the Snapper rider especially the blade assembly / spindle housing is NOT Metric hardware, it's what's called standard SAE sizes

FOLKS before you do all this work, you CAN remove that spindle housing assembly WITHOUT taking that deck off, speaking as one who WORKED AT the factory, >> a) << Remove TOP center pulley >> b) << Remove everything under the pulley & to the TOP of the bearing shown & keep in order as it came off >> c) << Pull everything that slides OVER the spindle tube, you will need some snap ring pliers to remove the snap rings that fit into the ( outside diameter ) of the tube, with everything removed or pulled up & off of the tube you will now see where the tube slides FROM the bottom into & through the cross brace >> d) << Get angled box end wrench or socket on extension that will reach into the sump and fit totally on the nuts or head of bolts >> e) << Take the correct wrenches etc for the hardware holding the spindle flange to the bottom side of the deck & remove the spindle housing hardware. NOTE: Parts d & e is best done while the mower is sitting on it's bumper AND the arm that slides OVER & pivots on the spindle tube can remain in place because the tube will be removed from the bottom, to give you more flexibility of the deck while on it's bumpers you can remove one or both of the rear chain arms chains for better access.

rats, you didn't show how to remove the blade holder bar. It looks like it is threaded on - I have to remove mine - HOW do you keep the spindle shaft from turning???

stored with gas water in gas water froze busted fuel line. you can not store any generator with gas in it.

The center nut doesn't need removed to remove the blade and you installed the two blade bolts upside down leaving the long side with threads on it pointing down where those threads will take a beating.

You’re placing the washers in the wrong place upon assembly. they stack under the spindle before you put the cup housing on to keep it off of the bearing race.

6k??

This machine clearly was not looked after. N that is the root of the problems here.

My chute will not turn. How do I take it apart? Anyone please help. I live in Fargo and we are about to get hit with a storm!!!!! Thanks!!!!

Kohler courage single cylinder engines don’t have the courage to run

Doesn't appear that snowblower your reviewing has a broken impeller so whats the problem? Someone using this in a non gravel driveway may never have a problem.

I think some people feel the plastic skids don't "mark up" their driveways. At least that what I hear people say.

Have a cub, 33 inch 420cc, heavy duty, its a beast, love it, its a 2014 not a mark on it, throws snow beautifully

OK..... I have been doing small engine repair for 22 years now. Number one, you MUST run the gas out at the end of the season. The carbs are problematic, but leaking valve covers, no. The unit is made pretty well, and the main thing I get called for is the carb issue. Cub Cadet is a MTD product as well as Yard machines, White outdoor, and Troy built as well. For the price point its a good value. ANY of the newer units WILL have a Chinese engine on them. Tecumseh, which I feel was a very good snow engine has stopped making them around 17 yrs ago. When that happened, most whole good producers went to have their own engines made in china.There are only a few brands which have a Briggs and Stratton engine on them. Those are upper end units which can cost 2500.00 and up,usually. In the end, if you dont abuse the unit and be mindful of proper care, it should work well. JB Small Engine Service LLc.

I have an old Cub Cadet 926 electric start, 9 hp.Trac drive with power steering. I bought late in the 🎉70s and still using this winter in Iowa 2024. Quality at its best👍

Maybe it's the operator!

I haven’t had one issue with my cub cadet it’s actually quite a awesome tool and easy to handle

Well, 99% of what's on the shelves in the stores in the US is made in China, because people have put profit over jobs. So, it's not China's fault that US companies are greedy as hell.

I have a junky little tailgater gen. It runs great I had to reflash the coils but unlike you I actually do own a mechanic machine shop. And here I'm writing a review on your view it's an Un-American review because you actually spent hard-earned money on Chinese. And also you said not to be used in an emergency situation when camping dude you're camping what the fuk😅 you're hoping to hit a hundred subscribers by the end of year lol. Why don't you try to get educated on small engine and repair and actually do some good by trying to help someone on here that don't know instead of give everyone something to laugh at you're worried about getting clicks hits don't quit your day job whatever that might be might be

I would like to know why you call yourself online Small engine mechanics on here you state you just started working on small engines you went to the institute of grandpa taught me so why did you waste so much time on this to do a review that is basically blah blah blah why didn't you take it to a a real mechanic you have a garage plaque on the back wall but no toolbox you said Honda makes a good ones they last forever did you say how they cost. Generac is a great generator let me tell you how much they cost lol go back and rebuild your review you bought Chinese you cannot operate Chinese 😮😮

If you understand the nuances of 2 stroke engines, this generator is easy to handle. First of all, disassembe and Loctite all screws. Being a Chinese product, there will be some loose screws. (God ruv Chinese quarity control) Add a fuel filter in between tank & carb (small red one), replace spark plug with an American one. Make sure you are using the correct 2 stroke fuel. Open fuel valve, choke it, with switch off, pull 3-4 times, 2 stroke engines like to start wet, switch on, pull and it will start right up. Note: slowly pull rope until pull starter engages, then pull hard. This is the weak spot on these generators. If you slam the pull starter, the plastic engagement pin on the recoils starter will break and your generator will not start. I have 3 of these, good for smaller power tools like a sawzall. hedge clipper, etc. Be mindfull of the watts. Do not store gas in these unless you use often. Drain the tank and the carb (small screw w/spring on bottom of carb bowl). Even after 2 years of sitting in my basement, they start right up. Note: as these break in, the RPM increases as does voltage. There is an adjustment screw for this If you have no mechanical aptitude, don't buy these. If you do, it's a piece of cake and kind of fun. The electricity produced is kind of dirty, good for motors as in power tools, lights, small heaters, hot plates and phone chargers. Do not use for sensitive equipment, it wasn't made for that. I paid $89 each for these at Harbor Frieght. Well worth the money.

Can you recommend a snow blower today that you like and would buy?

I must confess that I looked at the age of the reviewer. And I thought his video would be trash. The fact is, he did an excellent job on this review. Pointing out severe deficiencies on these new cupcadet made in china pieces of junk. Thanks for a fantastic review and keep up the great work!

I have the same engine on my Troy built storm 2410 . It’s a cheap Chinese knockoff of a Honda engine and it surges since the day I bought it brand new. It has to get me through this winter hopefully, but when springtime comes around I’m going to sell it and get a higher quality machine.

Now that im in over 5 minutes i say IDIOT...the shoes dont wear out in 20flippin years...that plastic on the chute out lasts the metal and dont break..the rope is no diff than any other pull starter,the handles dont break either...the carb takes 10 minutes to pull off but if you simply use clean gas and never use that junk fuel stabilizer u have 0 problems,if its gonna set run it out of gas...i sure hope nobody calls u for service for you are not honest

Umm horrible opinion not based on fact at all... my first cub is over 20,my kid still uses it,i bought me a new one in 4 years havent burnt 1 drop of oil and have had 0 issues,and as far as overseas metal being inferior,got news for you...most of your US steal is made by japanese companies and chinese companies...not to mention when the steel is tested it meets or exceeds US standards which is why DOD uses foreign materials...you just give bad opinions

We currently have a lemon cub cadet, the 3 year warranty does nothing and both times it’s cost $350 to fix it.

Found out the hard way did not even 5 hours out of it engine seized engines are complete junk

lowest energy I've ever seen

I live in northern Ontario Canada - You're a pussy

Good video. Thanks for sharing.

Лучше купить Craftsman 88106.

How you doing my friend

The REASON for the plastic skid shoes is to prevent scratching of concrete driveway which the metal shoes will DEFINITELY do!!!!

Nonsense...you get good and bad with all brands. Mine works like a charm. Has for a long time!

I used it 2 times but I can’t stared again 😢

US debt less than an hour and you’re doing a review on it really