Sanding back, staining, and finishing a carved guitar with epoxy... is tough

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  • Опубликовано: 21 мар 2022
  • In this episode I re-stain my guitar top, and show my first attempt at finishing a carved body guitar with z-poxy epoxy resin and sand it back.
    O:00 Intro
    2:50 First attempt at sanding back
    6:20 Sanding the finish off
    7:49 Staining and sealing the top
    12:20 Applying the first coat of epoxy
    16:45 Sanding back the first coat
    19:18 More coats of epoxy
    22:15 Sanding back
    30:35 Patching up
    34:22 Wet sanding.
    35:57 Results and conclusions
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Комментарии • 20

  • @wizrom3046
    @wizrom3046 7 месяцев назад +3

    Such a wonderful video, you spent so much time demonstrating and editing etc I really appreciate how much work that is. 👍
    Re the epoxy; I've worked with epoxy for years and that epoxy you have is really not right for that job. I use a surfboard topcoat epoxy, it is meant for this type of thing, to apply well and make a very hard tough durable top layer.
    When applying, it will run off very easily and leaves a 0.1 to 0.15mm thick clear layer with a shiny surface, no orange peel problem. You dont even really have to brush it you can pour on and just run off the excess over the sides. Dries to a solid approx 1-2 hours, touch safe 12 hours. Dont even need to sand between coats because as a topcoat resin it is made to bond to itself. Sorry cant say the exact brand because of work rules but any good quality surfboard topcoat resin should have similar properties.
    Anyway, thanks for the video. 👍🙂

  • @kennycube5126
    @kennycube5126 Год назад +2

    Great video man. I think my 1st go with z-poxy will be just grain filling. And fortunately it’s on a telecaster. Keep up the good work 👍

  • @Hazochi
    @Hazochi Год назад +1

    Thanks for sharing, very educational

  • @smmyers5956
    @smmyers5956 7 месяцев назад +2

    Sanding blocks!! Fingers leave low spots. Rub the dye dry. Transtint dyes work better for wood. Sponge roller to apply the epoxy and use fast passes with a torch to pop bubbles. Try putting the black on then sand back to make the flame really pop then use the purple thinned.

  • @patrickkem689
    @patrickkem689 7 месяцев назад +1

    Aahhh!
    Perhaps just a tad more research,
    Your on to a great start my friend. A joy to watch,,better you ,,than me,lol
    But have you ever given any of a notion to a very slow cure temp time and mix it just
    Ever so slightly loose only for maneuverability and I seriously do believe you could have a much more positive result with your next build. Why not try remember keeping it a little bit moist on your next batch will help ease in joining the ends together for a more natural inseam without having to manicure quite so much. I love what you’re doing. Thank you so much for sharing. So much looking for more 😊.

  • @chillpillology
    @chillpillology 9 месяцев назад +1

    all the guys that use epoxy for furniture finish, seem to use a heat gun or blow torch to get the bubbles out right after applying when wet.

  • @trinacria1956
    @trinacria1956 2 года назад

    Thanks for sharing

    • @DavidImrie
      @DavidImrie  2 года назад

      Thanks for watching ☺️

  • @fhhghggf6038
    @fhhghggf6038 Год назад

    Hi mate what is the bottle 9f alcohol u are using? Where did u get it? Thanx. Stu

    • @DavidImrie
      @DavidImrie  Год назад

      From what I remember I just got it from eBay. Cpl distribution in the uk

  • @thehowlandworkbench5849
    @thehowlandworkbench5849 4 месяца назад

    I suspect that the room is too cold for the epoxy application.

  • @lynnmudge6441
    @lynnmudge6441 Год назад +2

    If you hit it with a heat gun, the epoxy will smooth right out

    • @wizrom3046
      @wizrom3046 7 месяцев назад

      Not always, epoxy does get thinner as it gets hot but it depends a lot more on the grade of epoxy. Some grades flow well (for coating applications), some grades are more for space filling and don't flow well (for glueing and bogging applications).

    • @patbassman8251
      @patbassman8251 Месяц назад

      Surely if you hit the guitar with an object you will make dings or even damage it.

  • @PeterPete
    @PeterPete 2 года назад +1

    for the amount of time, effort and money that you've spent in this project you could have bought yourself a guitar!!

    • @kennycube5126
      @kennycube5126 Год назад

      I think you have totally missed the point with that comment. As in, you couldn’t have missed any more. As in, the worst shot conceivable. Hang your head in shame. 😮

    • @PeterPete
      @PeterPete Год назад

      @@kennycube5126 how so? I don't think I need to be ashamed of posting my comment. On ething I've learned in life and that is try to think sensible beforre undertaking any prroject, because what you do may be a complete waste of time & money!!
      And to be fair, messing around with the finish like the video creator has done really isn't worth the hassle! Personally, I woul;d have sprrayed lacquer finish on it or maybe used a varnish!

  • @emilymiller1853
    @emilymiller1853 19 дней назад +1

    Damn son..
    Put a thick.. smooth layer.. hit it with heat..
    Give yourself something to actually sand on.. with a flat block. 😅
    Not sure if you thinned it... But don't.
    Zpoxy finishing isn't the right product. Regular zpoxy would have gone better.

    • @DavidImrie
      @DavidImrie  19 дней назад

      Agreed. Can't use a flat black on a curved body, but the thicker resin doesn't lend itself well to getting bubbles out etc. probably going to sand it off and respray

    • @emilymiller1853
      @emilymiller1853 18 дней назад

      @@DavidImrie heat the resin before.. In the cup.. and heat it once it's applied.. The bubbles will pop right out. You cannot sand card scraped thin epoxy.. there's nothing there. You can also build a couple thin layers without sanding, then sand once you have enough material to work with..
      You can also use a needle to inject epoxy into any void or bubble after it sets. Different techniques.