i find a lot of guys put this stuff on too thick, for a future tip, buy a small squeegie and squeegie off most of it and to a few coats, it will save you a lot of sanding. nice work though.
I just tried to do this w/ z proxy thinking it would dry level. It went on nice and level, than it clumped up like yours did. I guess I should have used regular clear epoxy. I wish I knew. Nobody here to warn us it doesn't dry level. I guess zpoxy is just for filling in pores?
@@DavidImrie I've tried to use it 2 times both ended badly. I tried to epoxy a photo to a guitar like highline guitars, and I tried to clear a headstock. This stuff is so thick it can't level as it dries it pulls apart. Just ruined a very expensive neck.
😭. Yeah it's so odd they call it finishing epoxy when it's harder to get a good finish with. I guess it's because you can brush it on and it doesn't run. Which formulation did you use I think there's a quick and slow formulation. Wonder if the slow is better.
@@DavidImrie it says 1/2 hr working time. It went on so smooth & just kept separating, and separating. Im like when's it gonna level itself. I used a soft Dremel polisher bit to slowly n carefully lift it off the grain when I realized it was gonna dry that way. Highline guitars needs to take that video down, I see it's caused a lot of people to ruin they're guitars, where he zpoxied a comic photo on a white guitar.
Hey I usually don't comment on videos but on how you done your nut ,what about the intonation of the guitar.where you took the area of that fret down it killed the tuning
I was just wondering if by cutting the shelf in for the nut,will it effect the intonation of the guitar because of the space of the finger board being cut down.or was there that much extra space on the finger board predetermined for the nut being put on a shelf like that
Ah I see. Yes it was predetermined. I had a slot cut at fret 0. And then an extra nut width behind that :). Truth be told I did make one small mistake when I cut that 0 fret slot in that I cut it dead center, which means the nut is actually positioned about half a fret slots width too close, so I will slip a small ebony veneer in-between the nut and the board to fix that in the next video ☺️
@@DavidImrie Actually, Dave, it should be fine and you shouldnt need a shim. This is because the line you have cut will lead to the strings breaking over the nut at precisely the same point as the break over each fret. The high point of each fret is in the middle (i.e. exactly over the slot cut). The high point of your nut happens to be at the front, but is still exactly over what would be the slot cut. Any scale calculator (e.g. Stewmac's online one) will enable you to verify this. People have experimented with offset nuts, both by adding length in the way you suggest and even by intonate each nut position individually, but it hasn't really caught on, mainly because it's a faff and the difference is so slight that the human ear cannot detect it. There are even guitars with micro adjusted frets. All this is a waste of time IMO since modern tuning is inevitably a compromise. Incidentally, I really enjoy your videos because you show the errors, not just the perfection. Great stuff.
that palmwood looks cool with the epoxy finish. I was half expecting your epoxy brush to wipe the decolor off too, nice work
Sand it down start over use danish oil as your finished 3-4 layers thin thin thick thick, done. Great videos.
i find a lot of guys put this stuff on too thick, for a future tip, buy a small squeegie and squeegie off most of it and to a few coats, it will save you a lot of sanding. nice work though.
I just tried to do this w/ z proxy thinking it would dry level. It went on nice and level, than it clumped up like yours did. I guess I should have used regular clear epoxy. I wish I knew. Nobody here to warn us it doesn't dry level. I guess zpoxy is just for filling in pores?
Man sucks I gotta lotta sanding to do, I'm pissed
It's Very strange I've had coats that have dried quite glassy but there must be some factors effecting it like humidity or temp
@@DavidImrie I've tried to use it 2 times both ended badly. I tried to epoxy a photo to a guitar like highline guitars, and I tried to clear a headstock. This stuff is so thick it can't level as it dries it pulls apart. Just ruined a very expensive neck.
😭. Yeah it's so odd they call it finishing epoxy when it's harder to get a good finish with. I guess it's because you can brush it on and it doesn't run. Which formulation did you use I think there's a quick and slow formulation. Wonder if the slow is better.
@@DavidImrie it says 1/2 hr working time. It went on so smooth & just kept separating, and separating. Im like when's it gonna level itself. I used a soft Dremel polisher bit to slowly n carefully lift it off the grain when I realized it was gonna dry that way. Highline guitars needs to take that video down, I see it's caused a lot of people to ruin they're guitars, where he zpoxied a comic photo on a white guitar.
Hey I usually don't comment on videos but on how you done your nut ,what about the intonation of the guitar.where you took the area of that fret down it killed the tuning
Hi Bryant. I'm not sure I understand your comment?
I was just wondering if by cutting the shelf in for the nut,will it effect the intonation of the guitar because of the space of the finger board being cut down.or was there that much extra space on the finger board predetermined for the nut being put on a shelf like that
Ah I see. Yes it was predetermined. I had a slot cut at fret 0. And then an extra nut width behind that :). Truth be told I did make one small mistake when I cut that 0 fret slot in that I cut it dead center, which means the nut is actually positioned about half a fret slots width too close, so I will slip a small ebony veneer in-between the nut and the board to fix that in the next video ☺️
@@DavidImrie Actually, Dave, it should be fine and you shouldnt need a shim. This is because the line you have cut will lead to the strings breaking over the nut at precisely the same point as the break over each fret. The high point of each fret is in the middle (i.e. exactly over the slot cut). The high point of your nut happens to be at the front, but is still exactly over what would be the slot cut. Any scale calculator (e.g. Stewmac's online one) will enable you to verify this. People have experimented with offset nuts, both by adding length in the way you suggest and even by intonate each nut position individually, but it hasn't really caught on, mainly because it's a faff and the difference is so slight that the human ear cannot detect it. There are even guitars with micro adjusted frets. All this is a waste of time IMO since modern tuning is inevitably a compromise. Incidentally, I really enjoy your videos because you show the errors, not just the perfection. Great stuff.
Hi! Any more videos coming?
Yeah eventually. Currently building a new workshop :)
@@DavidImrie Super fantastic. I'm in the process of building a tele and a strat at the moment. Also enjoying your videos too👍