Mines like this too. Next time I buy a zero turn thats the first thing Im going to look is drain plug and filter for hydros because thats such a pain. Great video thanks for sharing
No they are not ashamed at all. Those are purposely built so it's difficult to service them and users think its a sealed unit, or they dont know how to service them and break them because of lack of mantainance and they end up buying new transaxles because of that. All they eant is you to buy new stuff. If you want to service your equipment you need to become a small engine mechanic all by yourself 🤣
I just got a zt1 last week. We only have a few yards we more. This one still runs and were going on 13 years with it. We found out that the seal in it had a pin hole and was leaking. I replaced seal and couldn't get it to seat right and leaked for the last few years, got tired of topping it off and finally got another. Lol i would get a more expensive one but we just don't mow enough to justify the costs.
I've seen some of these videos of oil changes with out purging the air out. Running a hydro systems with air in them is running mettle to mettle. If you're hydro transmissions is leaking a person needs to repair the leak. I've seen hydro transmissions bearn up from low oil. Those things get 🔥 hot. The pumps have close tolerances. Most times changing the oil will make it work because the thick of oil is sealing of internal leaks.
If you are having problems and thinking something is wrong check for seal leaks. Mine i found out later that it ended up being a seal that leaked. After a few mows it was sluggish again and fluid was low on one hydrostat, took me awhile to figure out it was from a leak though since it was a slow leak. Haha
You really need to purge the air out of the transaxles when you change the oil. While the rear wheels are still of the ground, and bypass open and engine running, move the control levers full fwd and back 6-7 times, then same with bypass closed. Those transaxles most likely have an internal filter which is a pain in the arse to change.
Super helpful video. Thanks for sharing with those of us that have the same units. My Troy Bilt looks exactly like your Cadet except for the color. LOL. Think my first approach will be to drill a half inch hole in the engine deck above the filler plug and try to pump it out with a small hose, sort of like changing inboard boat engine oil thru the dipstick hole. Based on comments here, i'll also be careful to make sure most of the oil is removed, If this lazy approach fails will remove the units. Thanks again!
Lol with the video sped up the traffic going by sound like you’re at a race track😅 Very helpful video buddy. I’ve got and old Snapper zero turn Cruiser with issues and I am hoping to do the same to fix mine.
This video was great. I had the same problem. I thought I was going to have to replace this high dollar part. After seeing the video I changed the fluid also. Now it works like a charm. I just don’t know if it’s going to last. I’m thinking after watching some other videos that the problem may reoccur. Maybe not. Did it stay working for you? Also the right side is lagging just a little so I may go ahead and change the oil in it now. Thanks again, you saved me a bunch!
I ended up having a small seal leak. It was the seal where the parking brake gear shaft comes out. I tried replacing the seal and can't get it to seat properly so it still has a small leak. I just fill the hydro fluid up every year and it's been good for the year. Ive been talking about getting a new mower but haven't since it still runs so ill keep putting that cost off. Haha 🙂
Thanks for video. Wondering once when all put back together, and if need to put more oil in it, wonder it you could access threw the breather pipe to add more oil, as while stripped down on floor you carn't purge it till back on mower, just saying, thanks in advance
I thought about while you had the transmission off what about using a electric drill and socket to spin the drive pulley to help you purge out the air.
I didnt purge it, it ran fine without once it was used and filled back up. I did later find that i had a small leak in a seal. I just fill it up now when it starts lossing power. The leak was so small it was hard to find.
@@thatslumlordlife what research I've done say's if you don't purge out the air before putting it under a load can do damage to it. I have a Hustler Fas trak and my manual says purging must be done after replacing the hydro oil. I put my mower on jack stands and run it for several minutes before setting it on the ground.
Just happened to see your reply and thought I would ask someone who works on these units a few questions about the problems I am having before I tear into my Cub Cadet Z force 44.. My research shows it was built back in 2005 and Cub Cadet no longer carries any parts for it.. My only hope is that I can try and repair it like this guy did in another link... ruclips.net/video/FTzV-cmc6YU/видео.html .... It is a sealed unit like I suspect SlumLord Life worked on here, but I haven't gotten under it to check yet.. Any advice would be appreciated.. Thanks.
Hope my troy built isn't this bad my same side as i is having trouble turning on mowing a third lawn just makes a grinding sound but after i let it sit for 20 mins it runs good again
Could it not be purged by using a drill and a nut the size of the one on the fan and move leaver back and forth when it's pumping from the drill While it's on the ground or bench ?
It has a Hydro Gear 2200 transmission, so it is "supposed" to be non-serviceable. These transmissions are not unique to Cub Cadet, and are on most of the residential zero turn mowers in the $3,000 - $4,500 price range. Anything with fluid should be serviced. Removing the trans is the recommended procedure, but I've also seen someone who actually drilled and tapped a drain plug in the bottom so that the fluid can be easily drained and filled. You may also be able to pump the old fluid from the fill plug, but you won't be able to drain as much as you would by removing the trans first.
@@LawnZip Well it still struggling when it's very hot outside after 40m of above 85 and humid 🥵 the right side gets weak after allowing it to cool down for 5min it drives just fine. I may drain both sides next time since I'm comfortable with doing it now
@@bigsonslawncare as for purging it they are talking about pulling the levers to push it ans jacking it up and going foward and backward for some time right? About to start sucking the fluid out now.
I have the same issue, the left side of my huqsvarna RZ 5426 basically has zero power after running for 10-15 min. Does oil change actually fix the low power issue? Curious to see what everyone’s experience has been. Thanks!
Mine actually had a small leak in the rubber seal. So it was low on fluid. I replaced the rubber seal but can't get it to seat right so it leaks a little and now just put hydro fluid in it at begining of the season. Just a slow leak. Try just adding some fluid. If its low you could have a leak too.
The seal that was leaking for me was the one behind the parking break gear thing. Didn't have to take it apart. It also doesn't have a locking pin/clip so I had to use a socket and make sure it was hit in their good.
They are all basically the same thing. 20w 50 and 15w 50 can be used and it's cheaper than hydraulic fluid. The manufactures all recommend and say hydraulic fluid and normally don't tell you the weight to use so you are paying the higher price. Makes no difference if it has filters or not. It's still a hydrostatic drive!
@@thatslumlordlife gotcha I sure didn’t know that, always thought 20w 50 was a type of motor oil meant for high heat n hydraulic fluid was completely different, but hey I learnedsomething new today
@@J.R.AirPiX these units MUST use a synthetic engine oil rated at 15w50.........DO NOT USE hydraulic oil in these EVER!!!!.....hydraulic oil will not withstand the heavy shearing forces created when these units are running....also the oil needs to be changed every 250 in these units as well
You could I guess, not really needed since it will all drain out of the hole with the drain plug. I can't remember now but i think it looked plastic so I would be careful turning it off to not crack it.
mine is having the same problem i did add oil to it and it seemed to help but now it just takes longer for it to have the same problem was this the case with yours and how long did it take to fix itself after you added the new oil
@@Lawncare_masters Sounds like you may have a leak as well. Mine was leaking out behind the parking brake. There is a seal there. I'd check that seal first. I'm actually still having issues with it cuz after a few weeks it pushes it self out. There isn't a clip/pin that holds it in.
@@thatslumlordlife thx but I think I fixed mine there was no leak no drips but now I need to add oil on the right side becuase the left is now just a bit stronger try purging the trans on yours becuase when you change the oil you let air in and you have to bleed all the air out
Check fluid to see if its low, you could have a small leak. I ended up finding the seal where the parking brake attaches to was leaking. Also check the drive belt and make sure its not slipping.
That was a lot of unnecessary work. I can't understand why you took it apart to change the hydro fluid. All you had to do was take the plug out the top, stick a small hose down there from a fluid transfer pump and pump it all out. Then reverse the hoses and fill it up with new 5w50. Quite simple. Been doing it that way for for years.
I am so pissed off that Cub Cadet installed such a crappy drive system, Just to get to you buy a new mower! The deck also has a connection to "Flush" the deck after use, when the SCAM is to get you to get water in the bearings of the spindles and either replace the spindles at $150.00 EACH or do what I did, buy Elastomeric bearings and NEVER use water again!!
Can you show what kind of oil they gave you or say what grade and weight they gave you. I have the same Hydra Drives on a Troy-Bilt zero turn. Thanks Rick
HOW IN THE HECK CAN AN ENGINEER THINK ITS OK TO NOT HAVE PUT A FILTER ON THE FREAKIN TRANSMISSIONS, THOSE PEOPLE WHO DESIGNED THIS NEEDS TO FIND A DIFFERENT JOB!!!!!!!!!
All the residential mowers i looked at don't have filters. They start putting filters once they hit commercial. 😒 So mowers under $4,000 don't get filters.
You must lift a little on one side to make turn properly, can not let wheel slide. To me toro is not a good lawnmower, transaxle go out fast. The best to keep moving is cub cadet. My Opinion .
I'm having a issue with mine not wanting to drive... It's moving super slow and I've changed the drive belt and that haven't fixed the issue... I'm thinking about trying to... It's a sealed system and I'm thinking it's possibly low in fluid or something...
1st and 3/4 off other, that’s leaves a little room to expand 😊
Mines like this too. Next time I buy a zero turn thats the first thing Im going to look is drain plug and filter for hydros because thats such a pain. Great video thanks for sharing
Same set on my Gravely mower. The manufacture should be ashamed of their selves for that design. Thanks for the video.
No they are not ashamed at all. Those are purposely built so it's difficult to service them and users think its a sealed unit, or they dont know how to service them and break them because of lack of mantainance and they end up buying new transaxles because of that.
All they eant is you to buy new stuff. If you want to service your equipment you need to become a small engine mechanic all by yourself 🤣
B sure to get the zt2. I just picked one up and they r serviceable on their hydros. Great video.
I just got a zt1 last week. We only have a few yards we more. This one still runs and were going on 13 years with it. We found out that the seal in it had a pin hole and was leaking. I replaced seal and couldn't get it to seat right and leaked for the last few years, got tired of topping it off and finally got another. Lol i would get a more expensive one but we just don't mow enough to justify the costs.
I've seen some of these videos of oil changes with out purging the air out. Running a hydro systems with air in them is running mettle to mettle. If you're hydro transmissions is leaking a person needs to repair the leak. I've seen hydro transmissions bearn up from low oil. Those things get 🔥 hot. The pumps have close tolerances. Most times changing the oil will make it work because the thick of oil is sealing of internal leaks.
We're hitting 10 or 11 years with this thing... i keep saying im going to upgrade and it keeps running!! Haha
It really should be done in the off season. Allowing the old fluid several day to drain and then keep coming out to fill with new.
Probably but for most of us, it gets done when it needs done. Lol
Thanks so much my brother and I've been wondering how to add or change the oil on mine too lol
thanks, I got the same mower, will be doing this soon
If you are having problems and thinking something is wrong check for seal leaks. Mine i found out later that it ended up being a seal that leaked. After a few mows it was sluggish again and fluid was low on one hydrostat, took me awhile to figure out it was from a leak though since it was a slow leak. Haha
Thank you for sharing this video! Very helpful, I'm not afraid to try this now!
You really need to purge the air out of the transaxles when you change the oil. While the rear wheels are still of the ground, and bypass open and engine running, move the control levers full fwd and back 6-7 times, then same with bypass closed. Those transaxles most likely have an internal filter which is a pain in the arse to change.
They have a screen, not a filter.
Cheap pumps.
Tell me more about the bypass. Is that a lever somewhere?
@@mattgrovesdc the bypass is the lever you would usually use to disengage the transaxles when the engine won't run and you need to push the mower.
@@sirsparksalot2 oh hey that's easy! Thanks!
Super helpful video. Thanks for sharing with those of us that have the same units. My Troy Bilt looks exactly like your Cadet except for the color. LOL.
Think my first approach will be to drill a half inch hole in the engine deck above the filler plug and try to pump it out with a small hose, sort of like changing inboard boat engine oil thru the dipstick hole. Based on comments here, i'll also be careful to make sure most of the oil is removed, If this lazy approach fails will remove the units. Thanks again!
Great idea, that what was done to my van’s transmission when changing the oil, suck the old oil. Hope it works on the lawn tractor.
Hell yea I will do that to my mower ! Thanks bro
Lol with the video sped up the traffic going by sound like you’re at a race track😅
Very helpful video buddy. I’ve got and old Snapper zero turn Cruiser with issues and I am hoping to do the same to fix mine.
Good job 👍
Finally found someone with my same issue. I even got a new transaxle.
Mine ended up being a leaky seal.
This video was great. I had the same problem. I thought I was going to have to replace this high dollar part. After seeing the video I changed the fluid also. Now it works like a charm. I just don’t know if it’s going to last. I’m thinking after watching some other videos that the problem may reoccur. Maybe not. Did it stay working for you? Also the right side is lagging just a little so I may go ahead and change the oil in it now. Thanks again, you saved me a bunch!
I ended up having a small seal leak. It was the seal where the parking brake gear shaft comes out. I tried replacing the seal and can't get it to seat properly so it still has a small leak. I just fill the hydro fluid up every year and it's been good for the year. Ive been talking about getting a new mower but haven't since it still runs so ill keep putting that cost off. Haha 🙂
Thanks for video.
Wondering once when all put back together, and if need to put more oil in it, wonder it you could access threw the breather pipe to add more oil, as while stripped down on floor you carn't purge it till back on mower, just saying, thanks in advance
C they should make it pumped where you can pump that out without taking it apart
Same on my hustler
Fun fact! It really sucks when the drain plug strips out and you can't find a T45 to hammer into it to try and open it up!
Yep..
I have a video on this. I know the comment is old but for the people here in the future it's on my channel.
great video, I have a zero turn like yours and it may need oil change but need to find a tech. thanks
I thought about while you had the transmission off what about using a electric drill and socket to spin the drive pulley to help you purge out the air.
I didnt purge it, it ran fine without once it was used and filled back up. I did later find that i had a small leak in a seal. I just fill it up now when it starts lossing power. The leak was so small it was hard to find.
@@thatslumlordlife what research I've done say's if you don't purge out the air before putting it under a load can do damage to it. I have a Hustler Fas trak and my manual says purging must be done after replacing the hydro oil. I put my mower on jack stands and run it for several minutes before setting it on the ground.
@@altonrowell613 i had the wheels still off the ground and ran it a bit... might be what you mean by purging the air.
these hydros have an internal oil filter inside them....im not surprised that the hydro stopped working going by the oil that came out of it
I later found the rubber seal was leaking. after replacing it, it's been fine!
Just happened to see your reply and thought I would ask someone who works on these units a few questions about the problems I am having before I tear into my Cub Cadet Z force 44.. My research shows it was built back in 2005 and Cub Cadet no longer carries any parts for it.. My only hope is that I can try and repair it like this guy did in another link... ruclips.net/video/FTzV-cmc6YU/видео.html .... It is a sealed unit like I suspect SlumLord Life worked on here, but I haven't gotten under it to check yet.. Any advice would be appreciated.. Thanks.
Hope my troy built isn't this bad my same side as i is having trouble turning on mowing a third lawn just makes a grinding sound but after i let it sit for 20 mins it runs good again
I have same problem whit my troy bilt leak some oil i will replace the lip oil seal
Could it not be purged by using a drill and a nut the size of the one on the fan and move leaver back and forth when it's pumping from the drill While it's on the ground or bench ?
Yes it can and should be done 😊
My dad sticks a vacuum tube down the fill hole and pulls out almost all the fluid
Nice! If it works... it works! 🙂
This kind of lawnmower you don’t want to buy not even for a homeowner that make it even worse for commercial use
Cub cadet rtz. It's not a commercial mower. Most of the cheaper $3k ones are this same way.
Thanks
It has a Hydro Gear 2200 transmission, so it is "supposed" to be non-serviceable. These transmissions are not unique to Cub Cadet, and are on most of the residential zero turn mowers in the $3,000 - $4,500 price range. Anything with fluid should be serviced. Removing the trans is the recommended procedure, but I've also seen someone who actually drilled and tapped a drain plug in the bottom so that the fluid can be easily drained and filled. You may also be able to pump the old fluid from the fill plug, but you won't be able to drain as much as you would by removing the trans first.
I tried to drain mine today without removing with pump got most of it out refilled with 20w50 so we will see what happens
@@bigsonslawncarewhat happened? Doing mine tomorrow.
@@LawnZip Well it still struggling when it's very hot outside after 40m of above 85 and humid 🥵 the right side gets weak after allowing it to cool down for 5min it drives just fine. I may drain both sides next time since I'm comfortable with doing it now
@@bigsonslawncare as for purging it they are talking about pulling the levers to push it ans jacking it up and going foward and backward for some time right? About to start sucking the fluid out now.
@@LawnZip Yes I sucked out the fluid out back some fresh 20w50 and then purge system with the wheels off the ground they say👍🏽
I have the same issue, the left side of my huqsvarna RZ 5426 basically has zero power after running for 10-15 min. Does oil change actually fix the low power issue? Curious to see what everyone’s experience has been. Thanks!
Mine actually had a small leak in the rubber seal. So it was low on fluid. I replaced the rubber seal but can't get it to seat right so it leaks a little and now just put hydro fluid in it at begining of the season. Just a slow leak. Try just adding some fluid. If its low you could have a leak too.
I have a timecutter mx 5000 . same thing
Thanks for you help
No problem
I am not doing all that, I will pull the rear cover and drain it and fill it through he black vent hose.
Just was wondering if your changing the fluid totally fixed your hydro Transaxle problems. Are you still having problems once the oil heats ups?
I ended up finding a leak in the rubber seal where the brake comes out. No other issues.
Thanks for the vid, have to do this to mine. How hard was it to change the seal that was leaking? Did you have to crack the whole thing open?
The seal that was leaking for me was the one behind the parking break gear thing. Didn't have to take it apart. It also doesn't have a locking pin/clip so I had to use a socket and make sure it was hit in their good.
I was wondering did you purge out the air.
How many quarts of oil did each side take?
I wonder if the axles could be pulled and drain that way? Much easier than removing the pump.
I have a feeling they are connected from inside the housing.
I thought the (ezt) transaxle took 20w 50 n the ones with filters take hydraulic fluid correct me if I’m wrong?
They are all basically the same thing. 20w 50 and 15w 50 can be used and it's cheaper than hydraulic fluid. The manufactures all recommend and say hydraulic fluid and normally don't tell you the weight to use so you are paying the higher price. Makes no difference if it has filters or not. It's still a hydrostatic drive!
in other words, 20w 50 is hydraulic fluid.
@@thatslumlordlife gotcha I sure didn’t know that, always thought 20w 50 was a type of motor oil meant for high heat n hydraulic fluid was completely different, but hey I learnedsomething new today
@@J.R.AirPiX these units MUST use a synthetic engine oil rated at 15w50.........DO NOT USE hydraulic oil in these EVER!!!!.....hydraulic oil will not withstand the heavy shearing forces created when these units are running....also the oil needs to be changed every 250 in these units as well
@@hardtop123 only got 24hrs on it atm, so u say change it at least every 250hr,, I’ll def do that… thx
What about the bolt with the tube? Don't you open that up and also tell that side?
You could I guess, not really needed since it will all drain out of the hole with the drain plug. I can't remember now but i think it looked plastic so I would be careful turning it off to not crack it.
Can You Mow Grass With The Cub Cadet Next Week Please On The Video
Mine is 9 years old and not in great shape anymore! Haha
What size alan wrench? I'm going to add rather than take unit out as there is a access hole on frame to remove the screw plug.
I suspect you could have used the pump to drain it.
the pump wouldn't get it all drained out leaving a lot of the crude that came out with the oil.
How many qts of oil to one unit??
mine is having the same problem i did add oil to it and it seemed to help but now it just takes longer for it to have the same problem was this the case with yours and how long did it take to fix itself after you added the
new oil
Mine was good right away. I also found that I had a leaky seal and had to replace it too.
@@thatslumlordlife did you have to perge air out of the transmission
I didn't.
@@Lawncare_masters Sounds like you may have a leak as well. Mine was leaking out behind the parking brake. There is a seal there. I'd check that seal first. I'm actually still having issues with it cuz after a few weeks it pushes it self out. There isn't a clip/pin that holds it in.
@@thatslumlordlife thx but I think I fixed mine there was no leak no drips but now I need to add oil on the right side becuase the left is now just a bit stronger try purging the trans on yours becuase when you change the oil you let air in and you have to bleed all the air out
What kind of oil you use?
I did this to mine and I still get bogged down going uphill. Any advice?
Check fluid to see if its low, you could have a small leak. I ended up finding the seal where the parking brake attaches to was leaking. Also check the drive belt and make sure its not slipping.
That was a lot of unnecessary work. I can't understand why you took it apart to change the hydro fluid. All you had to do was take the plug out the top, stick a small hose down there from a fluid transfer pump and pump it all out. Then reverse the hoses and fill it up with new 5w50. Quite simple. Been doing it that way for for years.
I got more drained out! 😝🤣
I was thinking the same thing🎉😊🤷🏼♂️
I am so pissed off that Cub Cadet installed such a crappy drive system, Just to get to you buy a new mower! The deck also has a connection to "Flush" the deck after use, when the SCAM is to get you to get water in the bearings of the spindles and either replace the spindles at $150.00 EACH or do what I did, buy Elastomeric bearings and NEVER use water again!!
Can you show what kind of oil they gave you or say what grade and weight they gave you. I have the same Hydra Drives on a Troy-Bilt zero turn. Thanks Rick
They dont say what it is due to they want you to buy this over priced oil. Everyone else says its 20w 50.
HOW IN THE HECK CAN AN ENGINEER THINK ITS OK TO NOT HAVE PUT A FILTER ON THE FREAKIN TRANSMISSIONS, THOSE PEOPLE WHO DESIGNED THIS NEEDS TO FIND A DIFFERENT JOB!!!!!!!!!
All the residential mowers i looked at don't have filters. They start putting filters once they hit commercial. 😒 So mowers under $4,000 don't get filters.
They want you to drive it until it breaks and buy a new one instead of changing the oil and filter. Crooks.
TRUMP 2024
Suck that fluid out like (Midas),or drill and tap for drain plug (1/8 inch )pipe plug
Yeah you have to remove them to dump the oil out 😢😢😢
Stupid not to have a drain plug 😢
Shame on hydro gear
You need more tools that fit the job.
Like what?
That fluid sure looks bad.
You must lift a little on one side to make turn properly, can not let wheel slide. To me toro is not a good lawnmower, transaxle go out fast. The best to keep moving is cub cadet. My Opinion .
I'm having a issue with mine not wanting to drive... It's moving super slow and I've changed the drive belt and that haven't fixed the issue... I'm thinking about trying to... It's a sealed system and I'm thinking it's possibly low in fluid or something...
@@MrBrandonleffall ,yes may be low on fluid, maybe seals, check make sure fan blades turning and none are broken off.
Who wipes their dirty hands on their pants still? A child?
I'm 5, you must work in an office!! :)
@@thatslumlordlife Do you eat your boogers as well?
@@lionsdejudah 🤣 and who's the child here? Lol
How much oil did each unit hold?
almost two quarts.