Quick Tip! If you are having issue removing the the input shaft and the bearing, you may have loosened the 3 center section bolts too soon. If so, tighten them down and it should be easy to remove. A few people commented with this issue and tightening down the center section solved the problem. Sorry for not showing that in the video properly. Hope this helps anyone having this issue.
Thanks for this comment! I was struggling with this very thing, but also taking out the little retaining pin on the input shaft, but is that even necessary? When it wouldn't come out because I had already loosened the three bolts, I assumed it was this clip and the service manual says to remove the clip. My only suggestion to make this video perfect would be to show the removal of both shafts. They were tricky. Thanks for making the video, though, lifesaver!
Just got done replacing both left and right side center sections on my Husqvarna RZ5426. My finger was too big to hold the bypass valve in place when installing the center section so I just used a zip tie to keep it in place. Worked like a charm.
I expect this mower will last several seasons with decent care. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx1VWTrayKBdCKAjzAcZ_Eg4dhHTae3LkN also recommend Also, I ran across the problem with it not starting the 2nd time I used it. There is a safety switch which is pushed in by the chute or mulching piece being attached to the deck. I took the cover off and it wouldn't start. Put it back on, no problem. It takes only a minute with 2 easily accessible wingnuts and no tools. This mower starts up first crank each time and it is a joy to use. It also mows in reverse by putting the key to the reverse area after starting and pushing in the triangular button. It will stay in reverse mode until you turn it off. All in all, for my homeowner needs, I really like this mower-and at 70 bucks a cut here in Miami, it's already more than 1/3 paid for itself in a month.
Excellent how-to video. It is a good argument for going with a ZTR with at least with HydroGear 2800 residential transmissions which have an oil filter which should provide better longevity though I have seen several videos on repairing them also. That being said, I've been looking at ZTR mowers and called HydroGear for a transaxle recommendation thinking a ZT-2800 would be adequate for my needs. They indicate their residential transmissions, including the ZT-2800, are really only intended for 1 acre or so. I have 3.5 acres with a slope so they recommended I get a mower with one of their commercial grade transaxles which start with the ZT-3100. The ZT-3100 is basically the same as a ZT-2800 but has contains cut steel gears (as opposed to powered metal in the residential models) along with having a shock valve to relieve stress under quick starts and a charge pump to provide supplemental oil to the main pump. I think the big box stores and some dealers inaccurately recommend models with the ZT-2800s for larger lots when they probably shouldn't. Anyway, HydroGear has an excellent RUclips video detailing the differences between a ZT-2800 and ZT-3100 but even it lacks in providing a lot size/slope guide on which transaxle would be best for a given lot. Again, excellent video and hope this info helps other viewers of your video.
I had the same discussion with Hydro-gear as well. My Husqvarna MZ254F has the ZT-2200 unit and my lot is approx 3 acres with slopes. They also said it's under rated for this. Though if you ask Husqvarna they have no problem recommended their product. All their literature states how strong and capable their mower is. Their manual does not state an acreage limit either. Personally I think these units were engineered to fail by about 80-90 hours..that's what I'm seeing on the forum pages and always the left side...
Not a bad video which is a complement coming from me. I wish more people would take the time to prep. and edit before they post their garbage. 90% of what I watch is a waste of time. You're in the other 10%. Concise, to the point, not too wordy and you don't repeat yourself a dozen times. I will watch another video of yours.
Howard Motal Wow! Thanks for the positive feedback. I feel the same way watching people's how to videos. It takes time to edit the garbage out but it's what makes a good video. Ill be posting more videos soon. Thanks again!
Hey, just FYI: when I installed the center section, I had a hard time keeping everything in place and from falling out. So, I laid the housing on its side (top) and had no trouble installing the center section on the first try! Hope this helps others.
I have watched a lot of these videos, and nobody asks the question of "Why" did the center section fail. I have rebuilt several of these units, and in every one the 10 tooth jack shaft gear, hard surface is flaking off. Those tiny chips go down to the sump, get sucked up into the pump, and chew it up. So, if you don't replace the gear your rebuild will be short lived.
Finally! A no-nonsense video of what causes the problem and how to fix it. Reading the repair manual alone is a bit cloudy, but your tutorial made it perfectly clear. Can't thank you enough for the clear audio/video quality that was provided. Heckuva job!
So when it comes to getting the pulley off. If you don't have an impact wrench, look underneath the fan at the shaft. It has two flat sides so it can be grabbed with a wrench. I put a crescent wrench on it and set the wrench against the floor and broke that nut loose with a 1/2 inch drive ratchet. No problem at all on both of the transmissions in my mower. I just figured I'd let you know. It makes life a lot easier for people without air tools.
Enjoyed the video. I talked with Ken at Hydro Gear and downloaded the manual but couldnt order parts through them. Dealer recommended for that. Ken very helpful guy .
Great details in the video! I have a rzt42 with the same problem. Every shop I had called said those transmissions were "non serviceable" and that I would basically have to replace both transmissions. Hopefully this winter I can tear mine down and rebuild it!
Thank you so much! I bought a Cub Cadet RZT 50 for $250 and the right side would get weaker and weaker as I drove it. After the tear down I seen it was the center section, so I ordered a new one along with a seal kit. Your video helped so much during the rebuild, you went into so much more detail than any other video Ive seen. Im not shure if I could have completed the rebuild on my own in a day without it! Once again thank you so much!
What an excellent video and exceedingly informative comment section! Thank you Tractor guy and thank you commenters. You all pulled together better than the rest of the entire internet combined!!!!!
Great video! About to my left side! P.o.s! Struggled all last summer trying to mow with 1 transmission working all the time. Other one worked until it warmed up and would get weak! Thanks again for a great video!
This was a very straight forward repair video. No fluff, just the necessary info to get it done. I just subbed. It turns out that parts and service are available for these Transaxles if you do it yourself. I just want to change the fluid in mine, but I found this video and thought I'd watch it just in case I need to actually rebuild mine in the future.
When removing grooves, toss that piece of wood and get a thick piece of glass. The glass will be much flatter than a possibly warped piece of plywood. Talking from years of experience.
This video with the repair manual helped alot. Thanks for taking the time to make it. I bought an rzt 50 used and had to rebuild both sides. This video saved me alot of money.
Just opened up a ZT3100. I've had no trouble up to the point of getting the center section loose. But, I don't want to damage anything. My axle runs, but gets hot and loses power. I picked up a ZT2800 thinking it was another 3100. It's the opposite side (R). Checking the parts list for both, there are only a few parts that are different. So, my $15.00 investment hopefully netted me some serviceable parts. I noticed the gears were different numbers along with the center section, which figures since it's the right side vs. my compromised left. I didn't see that you had to remove the input shaft, but noticed it went back in after you put the new center section in. I'll try that tomorrow. Thanks. 😊 I tried watching another guy, but he was saying it's a waste of time and money to attempt a repair. He was ripping parts out and said the whole thing was going in the trash after his video.
@battalion151R if the input shaft is hard to get out, make sure the center section bolts a tight. Then remove the center section bolts. If you loosen the center section before the input shaft is removed it will be hard to get out.
@darbleythetractorguy458 Thanks! Finally got it out. Everything looks great, I think my problem came down to the small seals above the (I hate it when I can't remember the name of stuff) supply pump. BUT! Getting that stupid bypass part to stay in the right spot was a PITA. A dab of grease works well. Since this pump is 12 years old, it had two cover bolts break off, which was fun. But, It's reassembled, and I'll be putting it back on the mower today. If you look at Hydrogear's diagram, I think that bypass piece is shown but not numbered. It's above the oil filter on the diagram, next to 188*.
When putting in the center section take everything off the input shaft use it to hold center section in place but to put in center section put motor shaft and the little bread then put piston on top to hold the little bread it a whole lot easier
I had a home depot cub cadet. Very deep in the manual it stated that the life expectancy Was 185 hours. I sold it soon after. Box stores dumb down the standard product to make more money. Never buy major equipment from a big box store.
Great informative video. I would add that the review black should "cure" long enough to create a gasket and not be gooey. I've seen way too many cases of installing before and then cussing because they leak. Anyway, great job
Great video, I have a 2006 Z Force 60 that won’t move forward on the left drive, I will be servicing it this week and if that does not fix the problem I will be utilizing your video to rebuild it on Thursday. Thank you!
Excellent presentation..!!! I’m having trouble getting my center section out.. you skipped past that part. Everything is disconnected but it seems like it’s jammed in there.. worried if I just try to pry it out that cheap metal will break and parts will go flying everywhere..
there is a pinned comment that might address the issue your having. if your input shaft is still in it you might have still loosened the center section bolts to soon. Here is a better explanation " If you are having issue removing the the input shaft and the bearing, you may have loosened the 3 center section bolts too soon. If so, tighten them down and it should be easy to remove. A few people commented with this issue and tightening down the center section solved the problem. Sorry for not showing that in the video properly. Hope this helps anyone having this issue."
FYI.....the small bypass puck can be retained in place by the use of a small dab of grease.....means you dont need to keep your fingers in an awkward place......been working on these for over 20 years
Hi Tractor Guy, thanks for the video.....nice job , clear and well explained........looks to be easy......just two questions, if we consider the time and effort, would it not be safer to replace the 2 bearings? also Hydro gear tech say I have to replace both blocks (pump and motor) I know these parts are pretty expensive, but is there no risk these are worn and no anymore usable? ......last thing : seal kit : for what? where did you use it?....... my case ZT2200 (EZT) less than 100 hours, oil inside rotten (milky/silver gray) after 20mn/30mn use becomes noisy and weak and after a while won't work on right side.......many thanks
I have a 2016 RZT which they state the transmissions don't require service which I am doubtful of but are my transmissions like this one you are working on! I could look it up but thought you might know off the top of your head! Wish you lived close to me as I would hire you to do my work when the time comes! Great video!
More then likely it has the 2200 transaxles. Especially if it says they are non serviceable. They should add a drain plug so you could at least change the fluid. Im in northeastern pa. Thanks for watching.
Maybe a good way to prime the unit would be to drive it with an electric drill while the unit is still out of the mower. That way after priming is done, you can easily check the oil level and fill as needed without having to remove the unit from the mower again.
Great video. Thanks for the detail descriptions of the dis and reassembly. I need to change the oil in my transaxles on my Gravely ZT. I'm going to give it a shot by just changing the oil before I go complete disassembly. I will definitely be adding this video to my library. Take care Darbley.
Grease the bypass puck to make it stay. Take the motor output gear off its shaft, assemble the motor on the shaft and slide it into place. Hold it. Then slide the center section over that. As for the trunnion/swashplate, you just need strong hands and care.
Great video! For the EZT trans...Why hasn't someone installed 1/8" NPT drain plugs in the bottom of the trans case (pump end) to drain the oil for servicing. Also find or make a hose to screw into the trans fill hole and drill a hole above the trans thru the engine mount plate for fill access. Drain the oil out the newly installed trans case bottom drain and refill with a know amount of fresh oil for servicing. ?????
Because they’re built to maximize profits. 99% will buy them at a big box store, run them until something goes wrong and then buy a new one. If you’re watching this, you’re one of the few people like me who actually take pride in fixing things.
Excellent presentation..!!! I’m having trouble getting my center section out.. you skipped passed that pert. Everything is disconnected but it seems like it’s jammed in there.. worried if I just try to pry it out that cheap metal will break and parts will go flying everywhere..
Have not had any luck with mine I tried this and it worked great for about 45 minutes then it started losing power again back to where I started I went ahead and ordered the whole transaxel
I'm going to do mine shortly so THANKS for the video!!!! Also these hyro's seem to be on so many different Brands that it "might" be a great way to start a biz offering to rebuild these. If proficient at it how much time would you say it takes to rebuild? THANKS!!!!! Most people would not attempt doing a rebuild.
Sound like the issue I'm having. The mower doesn't want to turn hard left sometimes but it kinda feels like a traction problem. Next time I mow I'll have to watch the tire. If I really work the sticks it'll start going and it's almost like I have to get the right side moving to help the left side
Hello and thank you for the video. I would like to suggest that if you're going to be this far into this unit you should also go ahead and pull that hub off so that you can replace the output shaft seal. If it's not leaking yet, it will be soon, so it is worth replacing. Another suggestion is do not ever tap on the back of your socket with a hammer. It's a bad habbit habit that will eventually damage your sockets. It is better to use an old extension. I have a dedicated 4in extension that is used only for this purpose. The side that receives the blows from the hammer is mushroomed and mis-shaped, which is what will happen to your sockets.
Wow, what a great video. My right side hydro gear just barfed. From the countless search returns of "non-repairable" (buy a new unit) to this is great. The new units are worth as much as a used mower! Thanks for an extremely helpful video. I know where to go to get the parts I need and how to go about fixing an "unrepairable" unit. You made my day! Subscribed. :-)
Wow! Thank you for posting this video. It takes the mystery out of tearing down one of these transaxles. Do you think that there is the possibility of drilling in a drain plug, threading it in, in and perhaps changing your own oil in the transaxle from time to time? It looks like to me that the pump housing had lubrication inadequacies and being able to change out contaminated oil would help.
Im sure you could add a drain plug. I haven't had one apart in awhile so i can't remember how much room there is for a drain plug. Test it out and let us know!
Video is perfect I got it all back to gather in your opinion what causing middle section to do that mine look examine yours also might be dumb question put I'm assuming the fill hole is screwed shut during purge process
John L from what I understand when you go from forward to reverse to quickly before you slow down, it builds a lot of pressure that lifts the motor and slams in onto the center section. More expensive units have a pressure release so this doesnt happen.
What an great video!!! Excellent job! One question I have the same transaxle and mine has a lot of play on the shaft that connects to the tire you didn’t go into that what is inside that shaft and how can I get it back to having no play? Thank you
Cedric id guess theres a bushing or bearing that could possibly be replaced. Take a look at the parts break down and see whats there. Im pretty sure the seal kit comes with a seal for the axle.
Great Video ! I have the same unit in my Ariens Ikon 52 . I dropped them at 75 hours and filled with Valvoline full synthetic 20w50 , and again at 150 hours . Is that over kill or am i thinking right as far as longer life of units ?
Thank you! Id say 75-100 hrs is a good interval. One of the big things is how you drive them. Slowing down and coming to a near stop before turning/putting one of the wheels in reverse. Alot of ppl will be cruising and slamming them in reverse for quick turns and it slams the internals causing the damage in the video.
I know yard tools use the crappiest oil they can buy for manufacture. Could these transmission problems be avoided by using synthetic oil? My JD LX176 1994 still runs great after 30 years of mowing and snow removal.
I followed video last summer worked great till now I dint change the motor or piston with springs so this time I would like to would you have the part no for those thanks
What did you use or recommend to clean out the inside of the case when you have it open, to make sure any contaminants are removed from the inside. I've got mine all broken down, and new part in hand and look to reassemble this coming weekend.
Sweet tap dancing christ thank god for youtube and thank god for you sir. Worked on many mowers but this is my first zero turn. These hydro motors are uncharted territory for me and you sir just made my muhfuken day!
I have a problem with a raptor Hustler a 52 in 2015 about 20 minutes it don't want to haul it pulled no more and it's been leaking oil so I might need a little help from you thank you Cajun land Church Point Louisiana
Looks like it more then likely has the same trans axle as the one in the video. If its leaking it might be low on fluid. I would pull it off the tractor and see what's going on.
How do you properly diagnose this problem? I just want to be sure. I bought a Cub Cadet zero turn that is weak on the left side, but at times there is a burnt rubber smell. I don't have much experience with zero turns. Nice video!
@@darbleythetractorguy458 It was just running the mower without the deck trying to determine if the left transaxle was weak. It wasn't a constant odor. Anyway, a tip I can provide is, I always search for the model number of the mower when looking for parts. I searched the one I bought and found the parts manual published by the manufacturer which had nice exploded views of the transaxles and all part numbers. As you stated, parts are available. Thanks for a very good video! My first time diving into a zero turn. Plenty of lawn tractors under my belt, but it's my first zero turn.
Is there any reason why you couldn't do the purge procedure using a drill before installing it? Seems like it would be easier to add oil if needed while it's still on the bench.
I recently purchased a Cub Cadet Ultima 54 inch deck with a 24 horse Kohler. I think it has this transmission. I don't have time or want to do any work on the transmission. I mow about a hour and a half a week with this mower. I am not hard on it and never will be. Currently it has 2.8 hours on it. How long do you think this will last and are these transmissions junk? If so I may get a extended warranty. Thanks for the video.
They should last if you don't beat on them. Mostly coming to a near stop when transitioning between forward and reverse/turning. Damage is done when pulling the stick to reverse while still moving forward. They aren't the best transaxles but can last if taken care of.
I rebuilt my gear using your video 6 months ago. It had groves in the center section. After installing a new center section it worked great until now starting to slow down and is back where it was before. I opened it back up and the pump and motor look perfect. The center section has rotation marks on the pump and motor side but no groves. The pump side rotation marks don't look even. One side is a little thinner. Also, there are some marks going from halfway center to the outside. None of the marks I can feel with my fingernail. One time when I was reversing direction real fast I heard a knock. Thinking it was the pump slamming on the center section. Do you think a new center section is what I need? I just wish I could feel the marks. They are all smooth.
Took my pressure relief valve off and it was clogged up inside the top of it. Got a wire and cleaned it out. Put the gearbox back together and it has power again. Mowed for an hour and it's doing great.
Would it be possible to sand down that Center section back to smooth (ie. Similar to turning a brake rotor and assuming the grooves aren't too deep)? It's probably better just to get the new part since you've gotten that far in the tear-down, but if it could save $ for some people I figured it be good to know.
So mine is of course is the left hydro and as I mow the unit gets hot and is not very responsive. But cold at first it turns fine. What if you just changed the oil from a multi V to a straight 30 or 40 weight or even a 50 weight? Isn't the problem the oil thins as it gets hot? Yes I'm lazy and afraid I'll screw it up!!!😉
I would open it up and see if anything is worn. Might get away with an oil change. I found a manual for a 310 2400 on hydro gears website. Might be the same as yours. If you contact hydrogear and they will give you a parts breakdown.
Seems like a common problem on the cub cadet nada troy built mustang. Is there an upgrade trans a person could buy instead of the same failing units going in.
Hey, Darbley. Everything works fine, the mower runs like a dream, but one issue, the bypass rod does nothing. I put it in, the same way it came out, and absolutely nothing. I can't find the reason, hopefully you can point me in the right direction, thank you!
Im sure its possible. Idk if there is a limit on how much material you can remove before it will cause issues. If I get another mower that needs a rebuild I'll try to sand it smooth and set what happens.
@@paulcane7160 I'm actually attempting to machine mine. I can't get the parts sent to me so I figurer I will try and machine them myself. If this works will let you know.
Bearing ring on the input shaft doesn’t want to come off. Retaining ring is off, shaft is removed, but bearing ring doesn’t budge and I jacked it up trying to remove it so I need to replace the bearing ring. Suggestions to get it off? Hammer, screwdriver, and anger?
FYI, yes, a hammer and anger, no screwdriver needed. Then to put the new bearing on, I used a garden hose gasket on top of the bearing to prevent damage to the bearing, a small pipe fitting that was wide enough to fit over the shaft, and a hammer. Worked perfect.
Losing power from right hydro, why do grooves hurt the center piece? I checked my check valves, they are tight, I do have metal shaving in the filter. Thanks
at the end of the Video you adjusted the neutral position. Was the engine running to check if the wheel would spin forward or backwards ? ( to get Neutral at the correct spot )
If you can safely adjust it while the engine is running, I would do it while it's running. If not, adjust with engine off and check it with engine running. I believe I did it with the engine running but it's been awhile.
I have a broken cradle bearing and the manual is saying its only available with a new case, but I found the cradle bearings sold separately. Have you ever replaced those? Not sure if they just rest there in the case or if they are adhered in some kind of way.
I just bought a Cub Cadet RZT50 and the left side gets weak and stops after 15 - 20 minutes of mowing. I am so relieved to find this, because I thought the whole mower was totaled.
Quick Tip! If you are having issue removing the the input shaft and the bearing, you may have loosened the 3 center section bolts too soon. If so, tighten them down and it should be easy to remove. A few people commented with this issue and tightening down the center section solved the problem. Sorry for not showing that in the video properly. Hope this helps anyone having this issue.
Sorry, saw this after my comment. I'll give it a try, but am still wondering about that ring on the shaft.
Thanks for this comment! I was struggling with this very thing, but also taking out the little retaining pin on the input shaft, but is that even necessary? When it wouldn't come out because I had already loosened the three bolts, I assumed it was this clip and the service manual says to remove the clip. My only suggestion to make this video perfect would be to show the removal of both shafts. They were tricky. Thanks for making the video, though, lifesaver!
@@lorenjohnbailey6445 glad it helped. If i do another one i plan on doing an update for the stuff i missed. Who knows when that will happen lol
its called a banjo fitting not lollipop
I came here looking for that tip. As soon as I tightened the center assembly back down, that shaft popped free. Thanks!
I am Old school. You get an A+! from an Engineer with a lifetime of Hands-on experience. Well done Darbley? It's all of the 'tricks' that help a lot.
Just got done replacing both left and right side center sections on my Husqvarna RZ5426. My finger was too big to hold the bypass valve in place when installing the center section so I just used a zip tie to keep it in place. Worked like a charm.
I used some really old dry grease and it worked great on 7 so far 😊
I expect this mower will last several seasons with decent care. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx1VWTrayKBdCKAjzAcZ_Eg4dhHTae3LkN also recommend Also, I ran across the problem with it not starting the 2nd time I used it. There is a safety switch which is pushed in by the chute or mulching piece being attached to the deck. I took the cover off and it wouldn't start. Put it back on, no problem. It takes only a minute with 2 easily accessible wingnuts and no tools. This mower starts up first crank each time and it is a joy to use. It also mows in reverse by putting the key to the reverse area after starting and pushing in the triangular button. It will stay in reverse mode until you turn it off. All in all, for my homeowner needs, I really like this mower-and at 70 bucks a cut here in Miami, it's already more than 1/3 paid for itself in a month.
Excellent how-to video. It is a good argument for going with a ZTR with at least with HydroGear 2800 residential transmissions which have an oil filter which should provide better longevity though I have seen several videos on repairing them also. That being said, I've been looking at ZTR mowers and called HydroGear for a transaxle recommendation thinking a ZT-2800 would be adequate for my needs. They indicate their residential transmissions, including the ZT-2800, are really only intended for 1 acre or so. I have 3.5 acres with a slope so they recommended I get a mower with one of their commercial grade transaxles which start with the ZT-3100. The ZT-3100 is basically the same as a ZT-2800 but has contains cut steel gears (as opposed to powered metal in the residential models) along with having a shock valve to relieve stress under quick starts and a charge pump to provide supplemental oil to the main pump. I think the big box stores and some dealers inaccurately recommend models with the ZT-2800s for larger lots when they probably shouldn't. Anyway, HydroGear has an excellent RUclips video detailing the differences between a ZT-2800 and ZT-3100 but even it lacks in providing a lot size/slope guide on which transaxle would be best for a given lot. Again, excellent video and hope this info helps other viewers of your video.
Thanks for adding some info. Definitely worth getting the best mower you can afford.
I had the same discussion with Hydro-gear as well. My Husqvarna MZ254F has the ZT-2200 unit and my lot is approx 3 acres with slopes. They also said it's under rated for this. Though if you ask Husqvarna they have no problem recommended their product. All their literature states how strong and capable their mower is. Their manual does not state an acreage limit either. Personally I think these units were engineered to fail by about 80-90 hours..that's what I'm seeing on the forum pages and always the left side...
Not a bad video which is a complement coming from me. I wish more people would take the time to prep. and edit before they post their garbage. 90% of what I watch is a waste of time. You're in the other 10%. Concise, to the point, not too wordy and you don't repeat yourself a dozen times. I will watch another video of yours.
Howard Motal Wow! Thanks for the positive feedback. I feel the same way watching people's how to videos. It takes time to edit the garbage out but it's what makes a good video. Ill be posting more videos soon. Thanks again!
I agree it’s the best video I’ve seen on this topic and I dearly love the volume, Thanks 🙏
Hey, just FYI: when I installed the center section, I had a hard time keeping everything in place and from falling out. So, I laid the housing on its side (top) and had no trouble installing the center section on the first try! Hope this helps others.
I have watched a lot of these videos, and nobody asks the question of "Why" did the center section fail. I have rebuilt several of these units, and in every one the 10 tooth jack shaft gear, hard surface is flaking off. Those tiny chips go down to the sump, get sucked up into the pump, and chew it up. So, if you don't replace the gear your rebuild will be short lived.
Thanks, I’ve been rebuilding them for 3 years and have had very very good results so I will definitely be looking now, Thanks 🙏
Finally! A no-nonsense video of what causes the problem and how to fix it. Reading the repair manual alone is a bit cloudy, but your tutorial made it perfectly clear. Can't thank you enough for the clear audio/video quality that was provided. Heckuva job!
Thank you for watching!
So when it comes to getting the pulley off. If you don't have an impact wrench, look underneath the fan at the shaft. It has two flat sides so it can be grabbed with a wrench. I put a crescent wrench on it and set the wrench against the floor and broke that nut loose with a 1/2 inch drive ratchet. No problem at all on both of the transmissions in my mower. I just figured I'd let you know. It makes life a lot easier for people without air tools.
Thanks for the tip! I didnt notice that myself.
Enjoyed the video. I talked with Ken at Hydro Gear and downloaded the manual but couldnt order parts through them. Dealer recommended for that. Ken very helpful guy .
hydro gear seems to have great customer service. I ordered parts of ebay. Im sure amazon has them too.
Great video! The audio and lighting was superb , better than most lawncare and do-it-yourself repair videos. Thank you!
Thanks you!
Great details in the video! I have a rzt42 with the same problem. Every shop I had called said those transmissions were "non serviceable" and that I would basically have to replace both transmissions. Hopefully this winter I can tear mine down and rebuild it!
It seems most shops don't want to work on them. The weird part is hydro gear has a repair manual. Good luck with yours I hope the video helped.
Thank you so much! I bought a Cub Cadet RZT 50 for $250 and the right side would get weaker and weaker as I drove it. After the tear down I seen it was the center section, so I ordered a new one along with a seal kit. Your video helped so much during the rebuild, you went into so much more detail than any other video Ive seen. Im not shure if I could have completed the rebuild on my own in a day without it! Once again thank you so much!
Your welcome! Glad I can help out. $250 is a great deal on a zero turn. Thanks for watching.
How much was the center section
That's what I was wondering as well, how much it cost
Yup. Prices would have been soooo great
Just finished mine and referred to your video multiple times. Thank you!!!
Awesome glad it helped!
What an excellent video and exceedingly informative comment section! Thank you Tractor guy and thank you commenters. You all pulled together better than the rest of the entire internet combined!!!!!
Great video! About to my left side! P.o.s! Struggled all last summer trying to mow with 1 transmission working all the time. Other one worked until it warmed up and would get weak! Thanks again for a great video!
Thanks! I'm glad it helps. Definitely a pain when they start to go out.
Great video, I used it to rebuild my RTZ50 zeroturn. Im no macanic. But I got it done with zero problems. Right to the point video with no BS.
Awesome! glad it helped you out. Thanks for watching!
This video made it so easy to repair my RZT50, I rebuilt both of my transaxles while siting on the toilet.
Haha thanks for watching. glad it helped
Now that’s how you get shit done!
This was a very straight forward repair video. No fluff, just the necessary info to get it done. I just subbed. It turns out that parts and service are available for these Transaxles if you do it yourself. I just want to change the fluid in mine, but I found this video and thought I'd watch it just in case I need to actually rebuild mine in the future.
When removing grooves, toss that piece of wood and get a thick piece of glass. The glass will be much flatter than a possibly warped piece of plywood. Talking from years of experience.
Joseph Martin I agree.
I've also seen people wrap the sand paper around a large wet stone as a flat surface.
I used the glass cooktop on my kitchen stove. Probably not ideal, but perfectly flat and worked like a charm.
Yep glass shop have a14/16 sheet of safety glass and round edges for 22.50
I have had my 60" z force for 15 years and I changed the trans fluid every year no problems .I put three spring on it .great mower
Excellent presentation. Clear, informative, detailed notes, mostly best practices, etc. Thank you for doing this.
No problem! Glad to help out.
This video with the repair manual helped alot. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
I bought an rzt 50 used and had to rebuild both sides. This video saved me alot of money.
Chris Lobb glad it helped!
Just opened up a ZT3100. I've had no trouble up to the point of getting the center section loose. But, I don't want to damage anything. My axle runs, but gets hot and loses power. I picked up a ZT2800 thinking it was another 3100. It's the opposite side (R). Checking the parts list for both, there are only a few parts that are different. So, my $15.00 investment hopefully netted me some serviceable parts. I noticed the gears were different numbers along with the center section, which figures since it's the right side vs. my compromised left. I didn't see that you had to remove the input shaft, but noticed it went back in after you put the new center section in. I'll try that tomorrow. Thanks. 😊
I tried watching another guy, but he was saying it's a waste of time and money to attempt a repair. He was ripping parts out and said the whole thing was going in the trash after his video.
@battalion151R if the input shaft is hard to get out, make sure the center section bolts a tight. Then remove the center section bolts.
If you loosen the center section before the input shaft is removed it will be hard to get out.
@darbleythetractorguy458
Thanks! Finally got it out. Everything looks great, I think my problem came down to the small seals above the (I hate it when I can't remember the name of stuff) supply pump. BUT! Getting that stupid bypass part to stay in the right spot was a PITA. A dab of grease works well. Since this pump is 12 years old, it had two cover bolts break off, which was fun. But, It's reassembled, and I'll be putting it back on the mower today.
If you look at Hydrogear's diagram, I think that bypass piece is shown but not numbered. It's above the oil filter on the diagram, next to 188*.
When putting in the center section take everything off the input shaft use it to hold center section in place but to put in center section put motor shaft and the little bread then put piston on top to hold the little bread it a whole lot easier
Hydro-gear has finally started to install drain plugs in the ZT-2200 hydros. Been shipping that way for a year or so.
I had a home depot cub cadet. Very deep in the manual it stated that the life expectancy Was 185 hours. I sold it soon after. Box stores dumb down the standard product to make more money. Never buy major equipment from a big box store.
Great informative video. I would add that the review black should "cure" long enough to create a gasket and not be gooey. I've seen way too many cases of installing before and then cussing because they leak. Anyway, great job
Great video! I don't need to do this, but I found it very interesting and good to know if needed in the future.
Thanks for watching!
Awesome videos
Great video, I have a 2006 Z Force 60 that won’t move forward on the left drive, I will be servicing it this week and if that does not fix the problem I will be utilizing your video to rebuild it on Thursday. Thank you!
sweet. good luck with it.
Excellent presentation..!!!
I’m having trouble getting my center section out.. you skipped past that part. Everything is disconnected but it seems like it’s jammed in there.. worried if I just try to pry it out that cheap metal will break and parts will go flying everywhere..
there is a pinned comment that might address the issue your having. if your input shaft is still in it you might have still loosened the center section bolts to soon. Here is a better explanation
" If you are having issue removing the the input shaft and the bearing, you may have loosened the 3 center section bolts too soon. If so, tighten them down and it should be easy to remove. A few people commented with this issue and tightening down the center section solved the problem. Sorry for not showing that in the video properly. Hope this helps anyone having this issue."
@@darbleythetractorguy458 thank you so much for the quick reply..
It just started bypassing again..
Awesome..!!!
Great video, the only thing I have a question about is how do you "check the fluid level/add" @13:55?
it's wonderful video, and good instruction, the Piston pump was amazing, do you know which one is the leading company for this Piston pump?
Use granite tile for a sanding block, its diamond ground smooth. or take it to a machine shop if it has gouges from metal, or get a new part.
thanks for the input.
FYI.....the small bypass puck can be retained in place by the use of a small dab of grease.....means you dont need to keep your fingers in an awkward place......been working on these for over 20 years
awesome! Great tip. That will definitely help out.
Grease is a great tip. I used a zip tie.
Hi Tractor Guy, thanks for the video.....nice job , clear and well explained........looks to be easy......just two questions, if we consider the time and effort, would it not be safer to replace the 2 bearings? also Hydro gear tech say I have to replace both blocks (pump and motor) I know these parts are pretty expensive, but is there no risk these are worn and no anymore usable? ......last thing : seal kit : for what? where did you use it?....... my case ZT2200 (EZT) less than 100 hours, oil inside rotten (milky/silver gray) after 20mn/30mn use becomes noisy and weak and after a while won't work on right side.......many thanks
One of the best Video's I've seen on these transmissions so far... Thanks...
Thank you!
You have done a superb job an explanation. You eliminated any questions
Glad it helped out!
I have a 2016 RZT which they state the transmissions don't require service which I am doubtful of but are my transmissions like this one you are working on! I could look it up but thought you might know off the top of your head! Wish you lived close to me as I would hire you to do my work when the time comes! Great video!
More then likely it has the 2200 transaxles. Especially if it says they are non serviceable. They should add a drain plug so you could at least change the fluid. Im in northeastern pa. Thanks for watching.
Maybe a good way to prime the unit would be to drive it with an electric drill while the unit is still out of the mower. That way after priming is done, you can easily check the oil level and fill as needed without having to remove the unit from the mower again.
It's definitely a good idea. I don't see why it wouldn't work.
Great video. Thanks for the detail descriptions of the dis and reassembly. I need to change the oil in my transaxles on my Gravely ZT. I'm going to give it a shot by just changing the oil before I go complete disassembly. I will definitely be adding this video to my library. Take care Darbley.
Very well made step by step rebuild. I’m about purchase a zero turn with this transmission. You got a subscribe from Bone Stock.
Thank you for the sub!
Grease the bypass puck to make it stay. Take the motor output gear off its shaft, assemble the motor on the shaft and slide it into place. Hold it. Then slide the center section over that. As for the trunnion/swashplate, you just need strong hands and care.
Thanks for your input! Greasing the bypass makes it much easier.
Great video! For the EZT trans...Why hasn't someone installed 1/8" NPT drain plugs in the bottom of the trans case (pump end) to drain the oil for servicing. Also find or make a hose to screw into the trans fill hole and drill a hole above the trans thru the engine mount plate for fill access. Drain the oil out the newly installed trans case bottom drain and refill with a know amount of fresh oil for servicing. ?????
both of those are great ideas. Most commercial zero turns have that ability.
Because they’re built to maximize profits. 99% will buy them at a big box store, run them until something goes wrong and then buy a new one. If you’re watching this, you’re one of the few people like me who actually take pride in fixing things.
@@failranch9542 its sad not many people try to fix things anymore. More sad companies don't make things to last.
Excellent presentation..!!!
I’m having trouble getting my center section out.. you skipped passed that pert. Everything is disconnected but it seems like it’s jammed in there.. worried if I just try to pry it out that cheap metal will break and parts will go flying everywhere..
Great job! Thanks for spending the time to put this video together. It was a great help!
Your welcome and thanks for watching!
Have not had any luck with mine I tried this and it worked great for about 45 minutes then it started losing power again back to where I started I went ahead and ordered the whole transaxel
great video about time to rebuild mine had my 50 inch rzt since 2010 left side getting weak and slow
Where you get the part i i can find the parts mine is 08 troy bilt 50 inches. I need the hydro pump lip seal i hope you can help me thanks
Thanks for getting back to me so I found all the parts is that all I need to get power restored
John L yeah should be it. Oil, gasket maker, seal kit, and center section. You should be good to go.
I'm going to do mine shortly so THANKS for the video!!!! Also these hyro's seem to be on so many different Brands that it "might" be a great way to start a biz offering to rebuild these. If proficient at it how much time would you say it takes to rebuild? THANKS!!!!! Most people would not attempt doing a rebuild.
Sound like the issue I'm having. The mower doesn't want to turn hard left sometimes but it kinda feels like a traction problem. Next time I mow I'll have to watch the tire. If I really work the sticks it'll start going and it's almost like I have to get the right side moving to help the left side
Hello and thank you for the video.
I would like to suggest that if you're going to be this far into this unit you should also go ahead and pull that hub off so that you can replace the output shaft seal.
If it's not leaking yet, it will be soon, so it is worth replacing.
Another suggestion is do not ever tap on the back of your socket with a hammer. It's a bad habbit habit that will eventually damage your sockets.
It is better to use an old extension. I have a dedicated 4in extension that is used only for this purpose. The side that receives the blows from the hammer is mushroomed and mis-shaped, which is what will happen to your sockets.
Wow, what a great video. My right side hydro gear just barfed. From the countless search returns of "non-repairable" (buy a new unit) to this is great. The new units are worth as much as a used mower! Thanks for an extremely helpful video. I know where to go to get the parts I need and how to go about fixing an "unrepairable" unit. You made my day! Subscribed. :-)
Thank you very much! Glad it helped. I just got done rebuilding another one this week.
Wow! Thank you for posting this video. It takes the mystery out of tearing down one of these transaxles. Do you think that there is the possibility of drilling in a drain plug, threading it in, in and perhaps changing your own oil in the transaxle from time to time? It looks like to me that the pump housing had lubrication inadequacies and being able to change out contaminated oil would help.
Im sure you could add a drain plug. I haven't had one apart in awhile so i can't remember how much room there is for a drain plug. Test it out and let us know!
Video is perfect I got it all back to gather in your opinion what causing middle section to do that mine look examine yours also might be dumb question put I'm assuming the fill hole is screwed shut during purge process
John L from what I understand when you go from forward to reverse to quickly before you slow down, it builds a lot of pressure that lifts the motor and slams in onto the center section. More expensive units have a pressure release so this doesnt happen.
John L the fill hole is closed when purging you will have to remove it to check the oil level after tho.
Thanks for the great how to video. Should save me some money.
your welcome I hope it helps. thanks for watching!
What an great video!!! Excellent job! One question I have the same transaxle and mine has a lot of play on the shaft that connects to the tire you didn’t go into that what is inside that shaft and how can I get it back to having no play? Thank you
Cedric id guess theres a bushing or bearing that could possibly be replaced. Take a look at the parts break down and see whats there. Im pretty sure the seal kit comes with a seal for the axle.
Cedric i took a quick look. The part number is 51517. They call it a bushing.
Great Video ! I have the same unit in my Ariens Ikon 52 . I dropped them at 75 hours and filled with Valvoline full synthetic 20w50 , and again at 150 hours . Is that over kill or am i thinking right as far as longer life of units ?
Thank you! Id say 75-100 hrs is a good interval. One of the big things is how you drive them. Slowing down and coming to a near stop before turning/putting one of the wheels in reverse. Alot of ppl will be cruising and slamming them in reverse for quick turns and it slams the internals causing the damage in the video.
@@darbleythetractorguy458 Thanks
I suggest a thick piece of glass or a very flat piece of granite counter top matl for lapping.
I know yard tools use the crappiest oil they can buy for manufacture. Could these transmission problems be avoided by using synthetic oil? My JD LX176 1994 still runs great after 30 years of mowing and snow removal.
Thankyou for taking the time to make this great DIY vid. 🤘🤘🤘💪💪
No problem thanks for watching!
I followed this procedure perfectly and it worked well for a couple of months and then the problem of slipping was back again. Hydra gear makes junk.
I followed video last summer worked great till now I dint change the motor or piston with springs so this time I would like to would you have the part no for those thanks
What did you use or recommend to clean out the inside of the case when you have it open, to make sure any contaminants are removed from the inside. I've got mine all broken down, and new part in hand and look to reassemble this coming weekend.
Sweet tap dancing christ thank god for youtube and thank god for you sir. Worked on many mowers but this is my first zero turn. These hydro motors are uncharted territory for me and you sir just made my muhfuken day!
Haha glad it helped you out!
Thanks for the video I need to change the brake shaft seal on mine this video helped to know how to prepare
Jeff Whitehead glad it helped thanks for watching!
Very best video so far.
Fifth time I’ve watch this video
Thanks 🙏
And it’s fixed
@@philliphall5198 happy to help!
I have a problem with a raptor Hustler a 52 in 2015 about 20 minutes it don't want to haul it pulled no more and it's been leaking oil so I might need a little help from you thank you Cajun land Church Point Louisiana
Looks like it more then likely has the same trans axle as the one in the video. If its leaking it might be low on fluid. I would pull it off the tractor and see what's going on.
How do you properly diagnose this problem? I just want to be sure. I bought a Cub Cadet zero turn that is weak on the left side, but at times there is a burnt rubber smell. I don't have much experience with zero turns. Nice video!
Burnt rubber could be a belt. It could be the deck belt or the drive belt. If it gets weaker the hotter it gets. High chance you need a rebuild
@@darbleythetractorguy458 It was just running the mower without the deck trying to determine if the left transaxle was weak. It wasn't a constant odor. Anyway, a tip I can provide is, I always search for the model number of the mower when looking for parts. I searched the one I bought and found the parts manual published by the manufacturer which had nice exploded views of the transaxles and all part numbers. As you stated, parts are available. Thanks for a very good video! My first time diving into a zero turn. Plenty of lawn tractors under my belt, but it's my first zero turn.
Is there any reason why you couldn't do the purge procedure using a drill before installing it? Seems like it would be easier to add oil if needed while it's still on the bench.
It's worth a try. I don't know if a lower rpm would affect it at all. If I do another one I'll give it a try.
I recently purchased a Cub Cadet Ultima 54 inch deck with a 24 horse Kohler. I think it has this transmission. I don't have time or want to do any work on the transmission. I mow about a hour and a half a week with this mower. I am not hard on it and never will be. Currently it has 2.8 hours on it. How long do you think this will last and are these transmissions junk? If so I may get a extended warranty. Thanks for the video.
They should last if you don't beat on them. Mostly coming to a near stop when transitioning between forward and reverse/turning. Damage is done when pulling the stick to reverse while still moving forward. They aren't the best transaxles but can last if taken care of.
I don't usually comment but we'll done video had to give you 30.sec of my time to like
Appreciate it! Thanks
Awesome, well edited and very informative video !! I hope this isn't the issue I have, but if it is I know how to fix it. Thanks !
Thank you!
I rebuilt my gear using your video 6 months ago. It had groves in the center section. After installing a new center section it worked great until now starting to slow down and is back where it was before. I opened it back up and the pump and motor look perfect. The center section has rotation marks on the pump and motor side but no groves. The pump side rotation marks don't look even. One side is a little thinner. Also, there are some marks going from halfway center to the outside. None of the marks I can feel with my fingernail. One time when I was reversing direction real fast I heard a knock. Thinking it was the pump slamming on the center section. Do you think a new center section is what I need? I just wish I could feel the marks. They are all smooth.
Took my pressure relief valve off and it was clogged up inside the top of it. Got a wire and cleaned it out. Put the gearbox back together and it has power again. Mowed for an hour and it's doing great.
@@eastcreek2373 Glad you found the problem! I wonder what clogged it up.
Where’s the PRV? Can’t find it on the diagram
To make sure it's flat, sand the motor part on a glass sheet. You shouldn't be push hard enough to break the glass anway,
Good idea just getting the center section those complete kits are pricey.
Would it be possible to sand down that Center section back to smooth (ie. Similar to turning a brake rotor and assuming the grooves aren't too deep)? It's probably better just to get the new part since you've gotten that far in the tear-down, but if it could save $ for some people I figured it be good to know.
If money is tight im sure its worth a try. It would probably be harder to get it flat.
Thanks for the video. It helped a lot and you did a very professional job.
Thank you glad it helped
Excellent video! Got a new subscriber here
Excellent video. Well done. Any chance you could do a scag hydro next.? That would be great
blake the snake if i get chance to do one i will definitly do a video. Thanks for watching
FYI!!! If you own an Ariens Ikon X-52, the transaxles are swopped around!!!! Left is right and right is left!! Remember that when ordering parts.
Great info!
@@darbleythetractorguy458, and thanks a million for the video!
What all did you have to buy, just the center section and seals? Thanks for the video.
Yes. Center section, seals, and oil.
@@darbleythetractorguy458 so after this type of repair is it running strong up hills and any unusual whining noises?, thank you
@@mountainmike1685 runs good and strong again after the repair.
So mine is of course is the left hydro and as I mow the unit gets hot and is not very responsive. But cold at first it turns fine. What if you just changed the oil from a multi V to a straight 30 or 40 weight or even a 50 weight? Isn't the problem the oil thins as it gets hot? Yes I'm lazy and afraid I'll screw it up!!!😉
Great video. Glad I found it. I have a Hydro Gear 312-2400L with axle issues, any suggestions?
I would open it up and see if anything is worn. Might get away with an oil change. I found a manual for a 310 2400 on hydro gears website. Might be the same as yours. If you contact hydrogear and they will give you a parts breakdown.
@@darbleythetractorguy458 Thanks for the info.
Seems like a common problem on the cub cadet nada troy built mustang. Is there an upgrade trans a person could buy instead of the same failing units going in.
Hey, Darbley. Everything works fine, the mower runs like a dream, but one issue, the bypass rod does nothing. I put it in, the same way it came out, and absolutely nothing. I can't find the reason, hopefully you can point me in the right direction, thank you!
The little metal piece is probably not in correctly.
Great Video, thanks a lot. Is there any reason why you could not get the centre section machined instead of buying a new one?
Im sure its possible. Idk if there is a limit on how much material you can remove before it will cause issues. If I get another mower that needs a rebuild I'll try to sand it smooth and set what happens.
@@darbleythetractorguy458 Thanks, I'll give it a try then as it's stuffed anyway and I'll let you know how it goes
@@paulcane7160 awesome.
@@paulcane7160 I'm actually attempting to machine mine. I can't get the parts sent to me so I figurer I will try and machine them myself. If this works will let you know.
@@fernandoproietto4376 did machining it work? I'm about to disassemble mine and was going to try it. Please let me know, thanks!
Bearing ring on the input shaft doesn’t want to come off. Retaining ring is off, shaft is removed, but bearing ring doesn’t budge and I jacked it up trying to remove it so I need to replace the bearing ring. Suggestions to get it off? Hammer, screwdriver, and anger?
FYI, yes, a hammer and anger, no screwdriver needed. Then to put the new bearing on, I used a garden hose gasket on top of the bearing to prevent damage to the bearing, a small pipe fitting that was wide enough to fit over the shaft, and a hammer. Worked perfect.
Awesome video, great job. Thanks!
Thank you for watching!
Where can you get rebuild kits? And how do you make sure you have the right one???
Losing power from right hydro, why do grooves hurt the center piece? I checked my check valves, they are tight, I do have metal shaving in the filter.
Thanks
Thanks for the great video, what oil did you use ?
I used castrol gtx synthetic. Recommended weight is 20w-50. Use what ever brand you trust.
@@darbleythetractorguy458 Thanks for the info !
Hey DarbleyTheTractorGuy is this the 17AI2ACK056?
at the end of the Video you adjusted the neutral position. Was the engine running to check if the wheel would spin forward or backwards ? ( to get Neutral at the correct spot )
If you can safely adjust it while the engine is running, I would do it while it's running. If not, adjust with engine off and check it with engine running. I believe I did it with the engine running but it's been awhile.
put bypass in with wheel bearing grease it will be sticky and hold it in place
Sorry if I missed it but do you sand down Both Motors i searched and watched and am still unsure thanks for a great video
I only sanded the one with damage. The pump side should be ok. If there is scratches on it I would.
Maybe lap the two mating surfaces with Valve lapping paste
I have a broken cradle bearing and the manual is saying its only available with a new case, but I found the cradle bearings sold separately. Have you ever replaced those? Not sure if they just rest there in the case or if they are adhered in some kind of way.
not mentioned is a spring and washer on main drive pump shaft..
I just bought a Cub Cadet RZT50 and the left side gets weak and stops after 15 - 20 minutes of mowing. I am so relieved to find this, because I thought the whole mower was totaled.
Hopefully you got a good deal on it.