Wow David… thank you. I’m having a great summer and I hope all is well in your world too. I plan to keep sharing so stick around and thank you for watching. 👍
Hi Gordon, I just discovered your channel through a fb group on old tools. It's truly a pleasure to see a job done thoroughly ,and with loving care. The end result is verrrrrry convincing. However, I do have a little reserve about scolloping out any original wood- especially if not damaged or wormy. I was an antique furniture restorer in England and in Paris for over 40 years. We very occasionally used epoxy resin for chosen repairs, when reversibility was not demanded (hidden structural repairs. The only epoxy we had at the time was Araldite, and it costed a FORTUNE here in France (still does). I was shown a very clever trick I'd like to share with you. Very simple. When all preparation work is done, and you're ready to glue, apply the glue on each part, and HEAT. A low temp on a hot air blower will do the trick. Be careful not to overheat!! The glus shouldn't bubble, just turn very liquidy. What does this do? By heating this turns the glue very liquid, but it also really bites into the wood, and THAT'S the great part. It also accelerates the curing time. I strongly recommend this, and I hope you'll be convinced. I'd like to get your feedback. My respect for your very tasteful and accomplished work; lovely finish. Greetings from France.
@@musamor75 thank you VERY much for sharing your professional experience. I do value your input and I’m glad you took the time to write. You are correct by pointing out the “reversibility” issue, and I will be sure to point this out in an upcoming video. My System Three resin is forever, and doesn’t lend itself to being disassembled like hide glue. The primary reason I remove the tiny scallops is to get “wood on wood” at the glue joint. The absolute best way to hide a joint. When I leave two flat surfaces and coat each with adhesive, I have a hydraulic effect that prohibits a super tight joint. Simply stated, I can see a glue line. So yes, I am modifying the surface slightly and yes, my adhesive is irreversible. Good things to know. Regarding your “apply and heat” technique, are you applying hide glue? I myself have never heated my resins….
Hi Darin, thank you for watching and thanks for asking about the knife. I’m using a Flexcut KN21 which is a right handed, 3mm scorp. You can find it at www.flexcut.com FWIW, I have several of their knives and use a wide variety of Flexcut. Great product!
@@musamor75 thank you! It’s an old Oliver, I trust it was designed to mimic the Emmerit. I too had a patternmakers vice on my wish list for years and fortunate to stumble into this one, which was already dismounted.
Good morning, thank you for writing and thanks for watching as well. I have done some work on infill planes but they have all been rosewood. I have worked with ebony of course and I have some smaller pieces of ebony that came from the Boston area and dates to c1870. Super black and beautiful wood. I’m curious to know what’s needed on your restoration.
Your epoxy looks very thick and nice and dark. What do you mix in the epoxy to darken it to the right shade and what do you add to thicken it if you care to comment. Nice work
Good observation. I use System Three epoxy… either the G2 or T88 product. I mix it per the manufacturer’s spec to ensure proper ratio then I add Transtint dye. This helps with the coloration although you can get great result with clear as well. The thickness you see is just slightly thicker than the initial mix because I do let the epoxy slake for a few minutes. Slightly thicker means less runs on the squeeze out. However, don’t let it sit too long because you want it to flow into the pores. You see me applying the epoxy and at the same time I’m “rubbing it in” to ensure a tenacious bite. 👍
@@matthewharry2803 I believe I have as many as 6 shades now but I primarily use three; golden brown, cordovan, and black. You’re seeing the cordovan shade with a dot of brown. Thanks for asking!
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Gordon, it is so pleasurable to watch you continue to refine your techniques. We are forever in your debt. Have a great summer!
Wow David… thank you. I’m having a great summer and I hope all is well in your world too. I plan to keep sharing so stick around and thank you for watching. 👍
Hi Gordon,
I just discovered your channel through a fb group on old tools. It's truly a pleasure to see a job done thoroughly ,and with loving care. The end result is verrrrrry convincing.
However, I do have a little reserve about scolloping out any original wood- especially if not damaged or wormy. I was an antique furniture restorer in England and in Paris for over 40 years. We very occasionally used epoxy resin for chosen repairs, when reversibility was not demanded (hidden structural repairs. The only epoxy we had at the time was Araldite, and it costed a FORTUNE here in France (still does).
I was shown a very clever trick I'd like to share with you. Very simple.
When all preparation work is done, and you're ready to glue, apply the glue on each part, and HEAT. A low temp on a hot air blower will do the trick. Be careful not to overheat!! The glus shouldn't bubble, just turn very liquidy.
What does this do? By heating this turns the glue very liquid, but it also really bites into the wood, and THAT'S the great part. It also accelerates the curing time. I strongly recommend this, and I hope you'll be convinced. I'd like to get your feedback. My respect for your very tasteful and accomplished work; lovely finish.
Greetings from France.
@@musamor75 thank you VERY much for sharing your professional experience. I do value your input and I’m glad you took the time to write. You are correct by pointing out the “reversibility” issue, and I will be sure to point this out in an upcoming video. My System Three resin is forever, and doesn’t lend itself to being disassembled like hide glue. The primary reason I remove the tiny scallops is to get “wood on wood” at the glue joint. The absolute best way to hide a joint. When I leave two flat surfaces and coat each with adhesive, I have a hydraulic effect that prohibits a super tight joint. Simply stated, I can see a glue line. So yes, I am modifying the surface slightly and yes, my adhesive is irreversible. Good things to know.
Regarding your “apply and heat” technique, are you applying hide glue? I myself have never heated my resins….
Very impressive work---as always!
This is beautiful work and well presented.
Thank you Sean. I appreciate your comment and thank you for watching. 👍
Thank you Gordon for sharing your knowledge with us !
You’re very welcome! Thank you for watching and thanks for the comment.👍
Excellent repair!! Couldn't be better!
Thank you for watching and I appreciate the kind words. 👍
Hi Gord. What is the funky chisel you're using at the 4:00 mark?
Hi Darin, thank you for watching and thanks for asking about the knife. I’m using a Flexcut KN21 which is a right handed, 3mm scorp. You can find it at www.flexcut.com FWIW, I have several of their knives and use a wide variety of Flexcut. Great product!
thank you Gordon! Love the channel, the content and ur work!
Thanks Will. Great to hear from you.👍
P.S. I just LOVE that Emmerit (?) style vise of yours! Been dreaming of getting one, one day.
@@musamor75 thank you! It’s an old Oliver, I trust it was designed to mimic the Emmerit. I too had a patternmakers vice on my wish list for years and fortunate to stumble into this one, which was already dismounted.
Hi, Gordon, have you carried out a restoration of an infill plane tote which has what looks like an ebony “frog”.
Good morning, thank you for writing and thanks for watching as well. I have done some work on infill planes but they have all been rosewood. I have worked with ebony of course and I have some smaller pieces of ebony that came from the Boston area and dates to c1870. Super black and beautiful wood. I’m curious to know what’s needed on your restoration.
Your epoxy looks very thick and nice and dark. What do you mix in the epoxy to darken it to the right shade and what do you add to thicken it if you care to comment. Nice work
Good observation. I use System Three epoxy… either the G2 or T88 product. I mix it per the manufacturer’s spec to ensure proper ratio then I add Transtint dye. This helps with the coloration although you can get great result with clear as well. The thickness you see is just slightly thicker than the initial mix because I do let the epoxy slake for a few minutes. Slightly thicker means less runs on the squeeze out. However, don’t let it sit too long because you want it to flow into the pores. You see me applying the epoxy and at the same time I’m “rubbing it in” to ensure a tenacious bite. 👍
Gordon is that something other than black trans tint? Almost looks purple on the video. Great stuff thanks man!
@@matthewharry2803 I believe I have as many as 6 shades now but I primarily use three; golden brown, cordovan, and black. You’re seeing the cordovan shade with a dot of brown. Thanks for asking!
Awesome work. Where'd you get that shirt! It's awesome!
Good morning! My wife bought the shirt for me…. I’ll have to ask her where it came from. I’m guessing an Etsy page somewhere.
a plane with a 0.3mm mouth in a vise .to stitch and glue.
Excellent work, Gordon.
Thank you!!!