You’re very welcome and thank you for the comment. I may keep posting little clips like this one.. the last two were just quick little segments. Seems to be working well for some. 👍
When I was a model maker-and then an old house restorer-I worked with guys who jealously guarded their techniques, and those who got a kick out of passing around every new trick we came up with, and we all got better as a result. Guess which ones I loved working with??? Your generosity in sharing your discoveries tells me a lot about you. And I get something new and valuable out of each new video.
Thank you very much for sharing you past experiences. I’ve worked in manufacturing most of my life and know EXACTLY what you’re referring to. I’ve had a couple great mentors and I am forever grateful to learn and grow from their experience. Having the good fortune to work with great people is what drives me to share. -Gordon. (Thanks for watching!)
You can use 99% alcohol to release the glue. Grow Chemical 4223. I learned that when I sold glue pullers for body repair. The alcohol is the release agent for the hot glue, to help separate the tab used for pulling. I tried it the other day when I used your technique for a tote repair.
Following your repairs gives me confidence to repair a couple of my totes and to do it properly! Thanks for the videos. A couple of questions; how did you re-drill the hole in the new piece? and have you've modified a plane body to hold a tote, yeah? Great work!
First, it’s ironic that “Nunya Bidness” is asking a question. Hahahaha…. Love your screen name. I drill the rod hole with a brad point drill that is the same diameter as the original rod hole. The small diameter hole (rod hole) really doesn’t need to be precise and therefore, I hold the tote in my hand and hit it with a cordless drill. We already know the centerline is the same because the tote was repaired in a controlled way. When it come to the counterbore (for the barrel nut) that’s a different story. And I have a video or two that already show that process. And yes, a broken no5 serves as my “work holding device” and it affords super easy arrangements and great access.
Thank you for making such informative videos! I have a few old Stanley planes I want to restore and you've given me a wealth of knowledge and the inspiration to do so. Where do you get your Brazilian rosewood for the repairs? I know it's nearly impossible to get but I remember in one of your videos you talked about some alternative wood and sources. Also, which Transtint dyes are you using to color your expoxy with?
Hi John, thank you for watching. Yes, Brazilian rosewood is very difficult to find, but there are still pieces that show up at auction Now and again. One of my recent videos shows a piece I bought in the New England area. I also recently acquired a rosewood grand piano from Boston, dating back to 1860. (It wasn’t playable) Other wood sources would be East Indian rosewood (Dalbergia latifolia) Bois de Rose (Dalbergia maritima) to name a few. Problem being most every Dalbergia species falls under the CITES appendix 1 category and therefore they’re protected. There are a few sketchy names being “made up” (?) by importers as they try to skirt the trade restrictions so expect to see a few species you’ve never heard of. Point being, there’s no short answer to “where do I get rosewood?” Regarding tints, I’m growing my Transtint collection and currently use black, cordovan, coffee brown, mission brown…and a walnut I believe. Oh and I just bought orange. Yepp, orange. 🤣🤣. My most used is the cordovan… looks the most like rosewood. 👍
Thanks for the tutorial. Learned a few things from you in this video sir.
You’re very welcome and thank you for the comment. I may keep posting little clips like this one.. the last two were just quick little segments. Seems to be working well for some. 👍
When I was a model maker-and then an old house restorer-I worked with guys who jealously guarded their techniques, and those who got a kick out of passing around every new trick we came up with, and we all got better as a result. Guess which ones I loved working with??? Your generosity in sharing your discoveries tells me a lot about you. And I get something new and valuable out of each new video.
Thank you very much for sharing you past experiences. I’ve worked in manufacturing most of my life and know EXACTLY what you’re referring to. I’ve had a couple great mentors and I am forever grateful to learn and grow from their experience. Having the good fortune to work with great people is what drives me to share. -Gordon. (Thanks for watching!)
You can use 99% alcohol to release the glue. Grow Chemical 4223. I learned that when I sold glue pullers for body repair. The alcohol is the release agent for the hot glue, to help separate the tab used for pulling. I tried it the other day when I used your technique for a tote repair.
Thank you Ray! It’s now on my list for future videos. 😊
Following your repairs gives me confidence to repair a couple of my totes and to do it properly! Thanks for the videos. A couple of questions; how did you re-drill the hole in the new piece? and have you've modified a plane body to hold a tote, yeah? Great work!
First, it’s ironic that “Nunya Bidness” is asking a question. Hahahaha…. Love your screen name. I drill the rod hole with a brad point drill that is the same diameter as the original rod hole. The small diameter hole (rod hole) really doesn’t need to be precise and therefore, I hold the tote in my hand and hit it with a cordless drill. We already know the centerline is the same because the tote was repaired in a controlled way. When it come to the counterbore (for the barrel nut) that’s a different story. And I have a video or two that already show that process. And yes, a broken no5 serves as my “work holding device” and it affords super easy arrangements and great access.
Can you add some Amazon links to the files and sizes you use? That would help alot! Thanks
I sure will….. great idea.
Done! Thank you for the suggestion and I’ll be sure to add info to future vids.👍
Thank you for making such informative videos! I have a few old Stanley planes I want to restore and you've given me a wealth of knowledge and the inspiration to do so. Where do you get your Brazilian rosewood for the repairs? I know it's nearly impossible to get but I remember in one of your videos you talked about some alternative wood and sources. Also, which Transtint dyes are you using to color your expoxy with?
Hi John, thank you for watching. Yes, Brazilian rosewood is very difficult to find, but there are still pieces that show up at auction Now and again. One of my recent videos shows a piece I bought in the New England area. I also recently acquired a rosewood grand piano from Boston, dating back to 1860. (It wasn’t playable) Other wood sources would be East Indian rosewood (Dalbergia latifolia) Bois de Rose (Dalbergia maritima) to name a few. Problem being most every Dalbergia species falls under the CITES appendix 1 category and therefore they’re protected. There are a few sketchy names being “made up” (?) by importers as they try to skirt the trade restrictions so expect to see a few species you’ve never heard of. Point being, there’s no short answer to “where do I get rosewood?” Regarding tints, I’m growing my Transtint collection and currently use black, cordovan, coffee brown, mission brown…and a walnut I believe. Oh and I just bought orange. Yepp, orange. 🤣🤣. My most used is the cordovan… looks the most like rosewood. 👍