How to Install a Fiberglass Entry Door | This Old House
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- Опубликовано: 23 авг 2014
- This Old House general contractor Tom Silva shows how to upgrade an entryway with a brand-new, low-maintenance, energy-efficient door. (See below for a shopping list and tools.)
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Tom and Kevin replaced an old, wooden exterior door with a new fiberglass door. Because the old door had thin wood panels and poor weatherstripping, it was not energy efficient. The new fiberglass door had foam insulation inside and dual-pane insulated windows. With the trim removed, Tom used a reciprocating saw and a pry bar to cut the nails holding the jambs in place and removed the entire door unit. The new pre-hung door would rest on the subfloor, which was not level. To correct this problem, Tom scribed two wood strips and attached them to the top of the subfloor. These strips also elevated the new threshold so that when the door is opened, it will clear any rugs or carpet that might be in the way. Next, Tom installed a flexible "self-sealing" flashing over the front edge of the opening and applied a generous bead of caulking to protect the underside of the door from any water penetration. With the flashing in place, Tom and Kevin inserted the new door into the opening, checked the jambs for plumb, inserted shims and screwed the unit in place. Next, Tom and Kevin installed a lockset and used minimal-expanding foam insulation between the jambs and framing to seal out drafts.
Shopping List for Installing a Fiberglass Entry Door:
- pre-hung fiberglass entry door [amzn.to/2PRtcMX]
- 2x4 [amzn.to/2ZGAurp] and shims [amzn.to/34sYQDw]
- 6d nails [amzn.to/2PR6Bjm]
- adhesive-backed waterproof membrane [amzn.to/2LtNeHT]
- silicone adhesive [amzn.to/2Uy3ews]
- 1x4 [amzn.to/2MXUe31], used as cleats when installing new door
- 3-inch long weather-resistant screws [amzn.to/2ZS268e]
- minimal-expanding spray foam [amzn.to/2ZTg1dZ]
Tools for Installing a Fiberglass Entry Door:
- reciprocating saw [amzn.to/2NQJfI5]
- pry bar [amzn.to/316D4ni]
- 24-inch [amzn.to/2HN1vhK] and 48-inch [amzn.to/2LtNEOt levels
- scribe [amzn.to/311s4r9]
- circular saw [amzn.to/2ZA7IbQ]
- caulk gun [amzn.to/2UtWobu]
- drill/driver [amzn.to/2ZQS4nM]
Tom and Kevin installed an insulated, fiberglass door manufactured by Therma-Tru [www.thermatru.com/].
Tom and Kevin also installed a new lockset manufactured by Schlage Lock Company [www.schlage.com/en/home.html].
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How to Install a Fiberglass Entry Door | This Old House
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I had the opportunity to meet Tom and had a drink with him. What you see here is exactly what he's like- cool, collected, humble and incredibly experienced. Wonderful guy.
Thank you for working on an opening that wasn't level
I've seen Tom do a lot of scribing, but video showed me EXACTLY what he was actually doing. Thank you Tom Silva...
I should just start all my projects watching their videos first. It's so easy to grasp the concepts with how they teach, and not too long winded.
I am installing a new exterior door. I watched many clips about installation of an exterior door. This Old House's clip is the most practical and most comprehensive one. Thank u.
It's really not that great, it doesn't thoroughly talk about making the door plumb, and level, and where the screws should go etc., How many screws to use
@@johnthree1611exactly what I was thinking, there much more comprehensive videos than this one.
I love watching his videos. His workmanship always shows his skill level and confidence. Not many contractors with this level of quality left. Anyone who takes time to scribe bottom plate shims is ok in my books!
You wouldn't ask this question if you had ever tried to install a door on top of an out of level subfloor
Exactly. The shims are definitely worth the time that it takes to cut them.
@@paulhiggs5172 yep
@FoxRcng708 yes he does. To do so saves him time and headache. Trying to set a door on an unlevel surface isn't fun
“One framing carpenter is worth 2 finish carpenters”
Tom is the salt of the earth, wish i had a small percentage of his skills.....and tools
Just replaced the old door on my garage that was never meant to be an exterior door, was rotted out, and had cracks and leaks everywhere. Now it's actually insulated, and just in time for New England weather! Thanks!
Watched several door install vids to pick up on some pro tips. This was the best one out of the group. Checking clearance on the bottom of the door for a rug or floor mat is something I can see a bunch of ppl not considering.
.
Thank you thank you thank you!! Sage willing to share wisdom. THIS is why I love youtube. Installing my new fiber glass entry door. It too is not level and significantly shorter. It was like this video was made for my situation. You guys are GREAT!!!
Kevin asks the best questions... he's a great teacher
What I like is the fact ,since it wasn't shown in the video .The latch set is mortised out. That's one of the tough parts of the door install. Not splitting the door when you chisel it out.
A good face uplifting for great old house. The fiber doors are amazing turnaround in today's home refurbishment. Thanks
Those fiber and steel pre-hungs are pieces of crap!
I think it was the great carpenter Patrick Henry who said:
"Give me a wood door
Or give me death!"
Any time I see Kevin slap on that tool belt I know there is some major work about to be banged out.
Straight to the point, enjoyed watching the video very much!!
There's no need to put fasteners through the jamb where they're visible. The gasket that the door seals against can be removed and you could put a fastener right adjacent to this kerf cut. When you reinstall the gasket it will hide the screw.
Don't remove it! Just use a shim or something to hold the weather stripping back while you screw the fastener in.
@@pearljam_1yes! That's what I did today
Some nice tips in this one.
Thanks! Worked on my old home, great vid (:
I wish they hadn't edited out how exactly he installed all of the flashing. Rushed right through that.
Thank you my house is 121 years old and this helped a lot
Used to watch this early morning Saturdays when I was little would've liked to binge watch like nowadays
Couldn't be better! Sweet! Hope I remember all the key steps when to replace a front/backyard door!
Best video yet, going to attempt this on the weekend.
how did it go?
0:14 Searched whole youtube fiberglass videos for this knock 😂 Thanks 👍🏽
What if your installer skips the door sill pan flashing and just silicones the bottom of the door to the wood
That lawn suggests Roger has already been there.
Thank you Tommy
Wouldn't you be more concerned with aligning the jamb with the interior of the house??? I work with a lot of older brick on block homes, and typically align doors with the interior side of the swing, that way I don't end up with a door that swings into inside jamb extensions, pulling the hinge screws loose. Am I missing something?, or do you have another way to resolve that issue?
Wish I could install it in 6 minutes too lol nice work and great tips. Hopefully my front door install goes smoothly as well.
Top quality!!!
Make sure you use the window and door insulating foam and not the gap filler one. The latter can bust your door jamb.
Wait what about the strike plate? Should it be screwed through to the stud?
Hmm treated scribed 2x4 and I prefer real metal flashing behind that membrane. Otherwise, it looks good.
He kind of skipped the non-hinge side of the door.
Bob vila un gran maestro carpintero sabe muchisimo yo lo admiro mucho de hace muchos años
They make it look so easy.
Everything's easy...once you know how.
Im doing one tommorow. First side job evah. Wish me luck!
Thanks mate
Two things to remember. He put longer screws in each hinge into the jamb side, I suggest doing that into the door as well. Those screws are only about 3/4 of an inch long and if you ever watch COPs or movie where they open the door with a shotgun they never mess with the hand set and deadbolt. Next. Never use foam that does not specifically indicate it is for doors and windows. Those others will expand and your doors and windows will be stuck shut. I'm no Tom Silva, but I design, build and install doors and windows.
masterful
Something strange about the sill removal: It had self-sealing membrane underneath when they removed it (and same brand as they apply later) but the membrane was not there when they scribed the 2x4. Maybe they forgot to film that bit and added it later just to show that it needs to be done?? Regardless, another good video from TOH.
I caught that I'm guessing the old threshold was removed before filming and they hamed it up for the camera
If I understand OP comment correctly, Tom simply cut the waterproofing off. He had to because you wouldn’t build up the subfloor and then nail the filler strips through the membrane. He built it up, nailed the filler strips then went over that with the self sealing membrane. Had he not cut the old one out water could potentially be trapped between the two membranes of water happened to find its way in. So long story short (to late I know) he cut off the existing and replaced it.
I’m a young guy
Never had a strong male role model but I’ve always done my best to fit everything myself so I can be a man’s man and when I have kids and I can pass this on to them
Thank you for showing me how to do this
I’ll be installing a door to my home today
It has a hollow garbage plywood door and I live in a shady area
I just love the old shiplap sheathing.
I'm sure it loves you too!
Heel mooi
So the door is fastened to the rough opening with only the screws in the hinge? What about the doorknob side?
What material (wood, steel, fiberglass) is most sound proof so that I hear the least amount of outdoor noise?
For a below grade basement exterior door in a stair well with a drain in front of it. What's the best way to install to make it waterproof even if the drain gets plugged or briefly gets backed up from very heavy rainfall?
Thanks for this.
I had a new Masonite exterior fiberglass door installed for my laundry room. The problem is that the steel threshold sticks up 1 3/8”.
I realize this was designed for thick tile or wood floors, but the room has vinyl sheet floor. So the threshold is easy to trip over.
I have not been able to find a reducer that will remedy the situation. Any ideas on the best solution?
Tom levels his bed before he sleeps on it every night
Need some guidance from skilled and learned viewers. We recently upgraded our flooring from vinyl to ceramic. The increase in floor thickness is causing problem with the weather strip or sweep installed at the bottom of the door. Whenever we open the door, the door drags our entry rug along. What can be done to raise the height of the door so it won't drag the rug?
It's a courtesy to give a like when tommy say's Plum lol.
What is the drill bit that they use to open o hole in the frame? and what is the adapter that open extra after the bit to hide the screw head. ?????? @5:18
i saw the show in the TV, actually here they cut that part of the video when Kevin drill the extra.
ive heard thatr you dont want to use just any spray foam , rather one that doesn;t expand to much or else it could mess your setup.
Do you have a video on installing interior trim on this door installation?
just a comment...i noticed a black plastic piece on the threshold bottom covering i suppose ..the adjustment screws...question..does this piece come off and stay off...?..thanks
Can you help find the proper type of paint for a fiberglass front door for Florida kind of weather. thank you
what do you do about wood rot from siding underneath the door? our so called siding guys just put a wide trim board underneath my door now my door won’t shut properly
dang Kevin, lol... you must go through the power cords, huh?
Damien Nicholas Better than to go through your back.
@@Engineer9736 blink twice if you're here against your will.
What about a sill pan? Is it required or recommended?
Good
My front door is the type that has the full length side window with all on the same frame and unfortunately same threshold. How do we replace the door threshold only? Hope you make a video for us! Thanks.
you can't replace just the threshold
No sill pan required? You plumbed square but what about vertical?
I installed a lot of doors and they left a lot out. Like shims and fasteners at 3 to 4 locations each side. And what about the scrap wood nailed to the jamb on the front to align with the front - what prevents the door from swinging inward uncontrolled while you are working on the jamb level and alignment?
Agreed.
What kind of caulk?, eurethane, silicone.. sealant or adhesive? Or doesnt matter?
What if just installing a threshold..no mechanical securement to subfloor?
~ Old door looks just like the new door 👌😊´´
I think we need to rethink placing shims behind the hinges. It limits the ability to adjust the door later on. This is particularly true with newer synthetic jambs.
Agreed
Anyone know where to get that self-adhesive membrane? The link is for a whole roll of stuff on Amazon, and it isn't even self-adhesive!
Does anyone else ever notice how their projects seem to almost install themselves?
You also installed a Schlage handle set
1. Gap and Crack Spray Foam is NOT for Doors or Windows.
2. Rough opening should be wrapped using house wrap
3. Sills should have metal drain pans
4. Shim and Fasten the Jam behind every hinge plus latch plate and more
5. Check Door Reveal around Jam
This video should be a lot longer and provide way more details. I would hate for a DIYer to install a door based on this information
He probably used window/door foam. I've seen guys wrap door jambs, I've also pulled doors that never had the jambs wrapped and the framing is dry and straight and the door never leaked. The door should be in a metal pan. I'm sure he did shim and fasten behind every hinge and the latch, I'm not sure why they wouldn't make that clear or show it. You're right there's also no mention of checking the door reveal :O
Very true - thanks Blake!
Is it possible to buy a small amount of self-sealing membrane, and not a 200-ft roll?
Two men , it’s easy, you should do a segment on a concrete block house
Just had a black bear go nuts and try to break in the front door in broad daylight, in town, old steel door held up enough to keep him out while he was scared off but it's split inside. Will have to do this soon...I just had painted the door last year too lol
Is it possible to install a mail slot in this door? (Fiberglass)
I had a contractor install a Therma Tru Classic Craft door in an old Fram House. It is out of square. Any videos or tips on to removing and reinstalling the door properly?
Depending on how far out it is you may not have to remove it. Remove the casing on whichever side is easier and drive shims in at the neccessary corners. Diagonally measure the jamb. Keep on til the numbers are the same
that scribe leveling trick made no sense to me. If you are following the rough floor with the compass point, wouldn't the opposite pencil line be as jumpy as the rough threshold surface?
You flip the piece he scribed and cut and face the scribed side downwards towards the subfloor with the straight level side upwards 👍
Does it hurt to put that membrane all the way around the rough opening? I don't care about the cost. Will it help?
I have a question. We are getting ready to install a fiberglass door that we bought from Lowes and it will be ready to pick up I about two weeks.... the thing is....it's getting cold here in East Tennessee. Will cold weather effect this installation in any way ? We are installing it in a mobile home. Getting rid of trailer doors and putting in house type doors.
JJ Sam terp doir if sand ok. If not? Go re board twice...ya fucking dumbass😂
This is a perfect scenario situation. Majority of the time, setting a door flush with the exterior plywood or the interior drywall will leave your door not shutting plum.
Your door should always close if it’s plum but yes you can’t always just flush it either side sometimes you kick in or out a either end if needed also even divide the difference but the door should remain plum
Would it not have been better to use pressure treated wood for the bottom pieces? Or treat the 2x4 strips used there?
Not necessary. Treated lumber is only needed when in direct contact with concrete, or exterior use.
حلووو موفيد
i wonder what brand of door this is,who makes it?
What about inside reveal against drywall?
i have a concrete home I want to change outswing door to inswing do I buy a new door or just reverse have
Hey friend, I would get a new insulated prehung door..exterior doors are supposed to swing in anyway. Steel insulated comes ready to paint, good door without the price tag of a fiberglass one
It seems there is actually only about 4 screws holding the door in (via the hinge)? Seems like there should be many screws.
there are, when you saw him shim up the one side, nails or screws go through the frame / shims / and into house. For the sake of time, they don't show you that they do this in several locations and the threshold / raiser / into the subfloor. they show it very quickly but if you're not looking for it, it can be easy to miss. Hope this helps and have a great day
Id hate for Harry Homeowner to follow this video and forget to attach the latch side of the door frame :-O
Aren't you supposed to flash the sides and top of the door with the same self sealing tape? That's what I've always done per code
Boobletown Bobby They just didn't do it on screen. Likely put it over the insulation afterwords.
...only if somebody wants to pay for it.
I have a 32" door want to put in a 36" how would I be able to do that
I would have done it different. I'm going to do it different as soon as I go get my wood from HD this morning. I'm sure the way they did this is good for their situation. I just don't like a whole 3/4" of nothing but foam and a few screws between the door and the walls.
@The Lone Stranger What is that reason? I finished the door. I had about an 1/8th inch gap left to right, and about 1/4 in at the top after the prehung door was set in place. I filled the gaps top to bottom, as well as the top horizontal gap, with multiple sections of 12 in long 3/4 in deep, pressure treated wood shims held in place with DAP Dynaflex Ultra. I foamed it as well, behind the shims. If the entire prehung door and frame ever need to be replaced, all I have to do is back out the #10 3 inch SS wood screws, then cut the shims with a reciprocating saw.
@The Lone Stranger OK, yeah, and I shimmed my gaps. As for the "roof opening"...??? Do you mean the gap below the header? I don't think you're on the same page as me or the video. You sent me a link on how to frame an interior wall to allow for a doorway to install a bedroom or bathroom door, much different gaps for different reasons. We (the video and me) are dealing with prehung exterior doors, not bedroom doors. My exterior door is in the shade, and the house is in Florida, so there will be very little if any perceptible thermal expansion from radiant or convection heat, and little if any contraction due to very mild lows, even in January. There will be little if any expansion or contraction due to humidity since the door is fiberglass and the frame is composite. Neither are wood. Thanks anyway though.
Never hold any tool, especially an old and heavy corded sawzall, by the cord. Ruins the cord. Watch at the 1:30 mark when Tom takes the tool away from Kevin by the handle.
I'm installing on concrete...thinking use some epoxy and give it a day? Might using a treated 4x4 or 4x6 post cut on a table saw be better? I'm spitballing here!
But then how to disguise it. It's quite a slope - i guess they built this porch to shed water.
+John RossStar how did you end up going about it?
Well i made a long wedge off a treated 4x4 post on my table saw. Figure the dimensions using a level. I had to make two and lay side by side as it was a very deep door.
Had to redo it later as the first wedge was too thin and a bit short too - rain would get by it.
The 2nd time i made it thicker and glued it down with this high dollar tube of construction adhesive that resists water.
(don't use Liquid Nails!) Let it cure before proceeding.
You can see it from the outside but doesn't bother me - there was no way to avoid it.
It was a massive PITA but the door looks and works great now.
+John RossStar Im doing some research on online learning, do you mind having a quick chat with me about your project? join.skype.com/tZrImHfaQxE6
I don't have a cam hooked up. sorry bro
Where do you get fibreglass doors
Will Fiberglass door be good for security door for business or would you recommend something else?
no for security you would want a wood door because electricity does not run through wood
Let me borrow that black door for my farmhouse lol
My head is spinning a bit when he scribed.
That's because you were in the Death Zone and you weren't on supplemental oxygen.
Aluminum threshold kills it for me, yuk.
No sill pan?
Uh, exterior door, right? Where's the sill pan? That's why that subfloor he had to level was rotted in the first place. There are couple nice tricks though. The scribing and the temporary stops were clever.
What about the flashing above the door? Might want to AT LEAST mention that fellers.
; )
Quality install but replacing a salvageable wood door with a cheap fibreglass one is just painful to watch.