How To Install An Exterior Door In 10 Minutes! - Beginners Guide
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- Опубликовано: 26 апр 2021
- This is an exterior door installation video. How to install an exterior door is explained here. This exterior door installation is a fiberglass Therma-Tru door with pvc jamb that is rot resistant that was purchased at Lowe's. This door is considered a prehung entry door. I show how to use liquid nails to secure the threshold! .
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Disclaimer: This video is all based on my personal opinion and is for entertainment purposes ONLY. I am not a financial advisor, CPA, attorney, tax advisor, electrician, plumber, housing contractor, designer, or any type of profession to give advice. I am just a consumer sharing my experiences and research. If you do need knowledge for those types of things, I will advise you to seek help for those professionals. 
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I think I should eat more protein after seeing how much I was struggling with that door. Have you ever installed a door alone?
love that click of a door when it's hung perfect.
@@T.E.P. Yes! Every door installers dream !
@Pedro Colon thats a good idea, i got a slight problem with the door the builder put, you can see light coming in at top and water gets in at the bottom of the door in driving rain. i siliconed from the outside and it seemed to fix the problem, also its good to have tiles were the door is and not wood floor. should be required building code to put storm doors in my opinion.
you made it look easy, couldnt have been that heavy, i just installed a hardwood door that's almost fully glass panels except a 6 inch hardwood border... unbelievably heavy as frig. even for a 220 lb gorilla
What’s up hard worker! I have a quick question. As far as the liquid nails goes. I am installing a door next week in my garage and the area for the sill will be going to a brick and not smooth concrete. Would I need the flashing tape here or do I need to use something else? Love the content, doing an awesome job explaining.
-Chris, North Carolina
Make sure your bottoms clean, my Mom taught me that when I was really young!
You deserve a sticker
I wish someone would've taught the wife that.
My mom taught me how to piss standing up last year when I was 30 years old.
Shims should be behind all hinges and anywhere you screw through the frame. If door has brickmould you need caulk behind the brickmould. Shims under only the jambs at the bottom as needed. Great video. I dig your content.
Yes sounds like you have a lot of experience. I usually flash so I don’t caulk behind the brick mold. It would be extra security though. Thanks for watching!
@@TheExcellentLaborer flashing and caulking is always good : P
I've been in the door business since 1986. I caulk the backside of the brickmold where it meets the jamb. I also caulk the perimeter of the opening where the brickmold will touch the exterior of the house. I prefer to use a sealant like Lexel, not Liquid Nails under the threshold. Because, I'm originally from south Florida and we had to use alot of screws to meet hurricane code, I use 8 3" screws on the hinge side ( including 2 long screws on top hinge and one each on muddle on bottom hinge) and about 7 on the strike side behind the weatherstripping. Shims behind every screw. I don't nail the brickmold until door is shimmed and screwed and revealis perfect. I then caulk where the brickmold meets the jamb on the front side. I don't do any new construction, because builders don't want to pay to have a door installed correctly.
@@Eaglefreek300Fully threaded screws and spray foam have eliminated shims for an exterior door install and any sealant behind the brick molding, unless it is a fully vinyl framed patio door. Spray foam is a polyurethane-based product and it sticks to everything, and it has three PSI expansion all the way around. Just enough to secure it tightly without distortion. Using a neutral cure silicone under the door is best. It's adhesive with flex and will not come loose like asitoxy/ "vinegar smelling" silicone. But I'm in Ohio, maybe Florida is different. I have done replacement doors and windows for almost thirty years in Ohio. I have installed thousands of doors, I am much faster than most and get paid way more than it's probably worth lol. Have only had two door service calls in almost 30 years. LOL, a really good door installer needs to be a little bit OCD, but also have the ability to go smooth and fast and also be efficient, to make the money.
Yes the shims are important under the jambs. I install aluminum doors on concrete a lot. Have to elevate the door so the aluminum doesn't touch the concrete directly.
GREAT video. Straight to the point, explained perfectly without making the video any longer than it needed to be, great footage, great audio, great information. 10/10
Thanks Michael! I know people are busy and don’t need to watch extra footage than they need to get the project done. Good luck with your project!
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So for years I wrapped the tyvex/typar in around the framing like you do here. After experiencing what we called mystery leaks. Nothing big, enough to stain some of the trim in the very corners, I figured out that the house wrap was wicking moisture in around the brick mold on doors and the nailing fin on the windows. What I started to do was cut the house wrap back, staple it out of the way.
Then we would take 4-in Vycor and install around the opening on the outside. Then you would cut your house wrap back to the edge of the Vycor and use house wrap tape to secure the house wrap to the Vycor. Would always test fit the door and then apply a bead silicon to the back of the molding. Install the door as you normally would. We always shim behind the hinges and three points on the lock side.
One top, bottom and behind the striker plate, screws behind the weather stripping like you did. Some finish nails in the brick molding then a nice thin bead of caulk around the outside. Piece of drip cap over the top and then a strip of Vycor over that.
Been doing that for a long time haven't had any leaks
Not criticizing, everybody does it different but up here in the great white North we get sideways rain, snow, wind, lots of condensation because some days it's 30° when you wake up then 75 in the afternoon.
Been building for 40 years learned a lot from my mistakes in that time.
Great video though always appreciate the guys that just do it without yapping incessantly. You're helping people out and not wasting their time thanks man!
House wrap should wrap the openings and THEN you add Vycor sill pans and jamb wraps over the house wrap. Go to "This Old House" and watch the videos about installing windows and doors. You will learn a lot... I am sick of fixing rot on 16- 20 year old homes because so called carpenters don't know how to flash. I don't find rot on 50-70 year old homes like I do on newer... 44 years and I fear for homeowners with these fools with hammers calling themselves tradesmen....
This guy is the best RUclipsr in this realm of content. Perfectly executed and information isn’t drawn out. I never lose using this guys advice. Thank you everything you have taught me for my house I’m building this year.
This comment means a lot to me. You just made my week! Thanks a lot Pete!
I’m building my own house as well. I’ve watched all the videos I can from this guy to help me out. Thank you.
Josh, When you say "water will run straight down" .... I rather don't think so. There is a process known as 'wicking' where the water is drawn other than the flow by gravity.. To see this take a dry washcloth or dishcloth or sponge and lower one edge into some water. Then hold it there and watch the water run UPhill. Your idea of flashing tape along the sides should be mandatory. I learned this when becoming certified by The Building Performance Institute. Take the extra step -- you'll thank yourself years later!
Hey Josh, great video as always. I bought a similar exterior door at Lowes, same style and brand but 32" wide and figured I'd watch your video on how to install it. I started watching your video and see basically the same door which is great.
I was able to remove the old exterior door and jamb (keeping the existing brick moulding because it's in stucco) and your instructions and tips were super helpful in getting the new door in place and plumb.
thanks again!
Good Job Josh!!!
Short and sweet, straight to the point
So satisfying watching a pro practice his craft.
Very nice.
Thank you for sharing your RUclips about How To Install An Exterior Door In 10 Minutes! - Beginners Guide!
very helpful video even for professionals, clear and concise!
Did this project today! Your tips helped very much!
I will have to watch this video again. There is a lot to learn.
Please don’t he’s doing it wrong. For instance shims fail inside 1or 2 years
i work home depot deliveries and whenever i put together door installation orders the flashing always had me curious as to why it's needed. finally decided to look it up and damn this is really good stuff
a lot of this doesn't seem complicated the way you put it and I'll be watching more of your content 👊
Thank you. Your video was very informative and very concise. It was exactly what I needed.
This is a good time to install a jamb brace (anti-burglary plates) behind the latch and bottom hinge. This prevents the frame from breaking if someone tries to kick it in.
Got a reference vid for this?
Thanks for the video man you’re the only one who had a video on installing this type of door. Thank you.
Great video, Josh! Good tips. Thanks!
I like this guy, his hands are golden, you can learn a lot
Thanks for the video. Now can you do one where the house is 40 years old and the opening isn’t square and a bit tight, masonry outside with no flange on door? Nice square perfect rough openings with level floor are easy.
Love the video Josh!!! Thanks a ton!! Very helpful👍👍👍👍
Thanx Josh.
Very good video.
Just what I was looking for.
Great video! I build vacation homes for my families company in eastern wa. Been working with a guy and haul the doors into place. Never really was taught how to hang the doors though. Just saw this video after needing some answers. We are still in the Stone Age, using air nailers and blowing several air hoses over the years. I plan to shop online for a cordless nailer. Merry Christmas to me! I subscribed and plan to watch other videos to get help. The guy I work with doesn’t communicate so well. After watching this tutorial I understand a lot better and could hang a door solo for sure. Thanks again.
Thanks for the video Josh, learned lots and the instruction will help me save some installation money! 😊😊
The little squares of weather stripping are meant for the bottom of the jamb at the sill.
There are two ways to install a exterior door! The 10 minute fast and cheap method or the Correct method. First my level would fit between the jams and then I would use a longer level to make sure that the wall was plumb especially if I was kicking the brick mould tight to the wall, which I would never do without checking plumb. I would never shot any nail without a shim behind it even to temporarily set the door. I don’t like to install doors with the casings put on before the door is set because moving the door usually messes up the miter cuts. I put flashing on sides, then top, then stucco guard or brick mold or whatever casings are required. I would use silicone sealant, not liquid nails, on the sill. Two beads, one a little back of where the front of the door will sit, the other, a little inside where the back of the door will still. I tend to use a hammer and finish nails and set with a nail punch because nail guns usually leave nasty marks and it sounds to me like you caulk nail holes fast and cheap also. I also remove the weatherstripping before I put a drill or screw gun anywhere near it. I never put shims under the door. I would resolve the issue with concrete levelall or whatever the application requires (concrete, hardwood, tile). I use a quarter between the door and jamb, not my eyeball, to set the reveal. When you said you would score and break the shims if they were thin ( that’s how they split and fall between the jamb and stud and leave a loose spot which may create a problem later) and then you said the insulation squares go wherever you see light, which is wrong, they go on the bottom, I decided you were young and hadn’t installed a lot of doors!!!
It’s a garage door, not Mike Holmes installing a 15 k entry door.
Very serviceable for the application.
@@richardluce775 Then I’d want that Mikey guy to hang my door, not you. I’m looking out for the guy paying for the door, not the guy putting in the door!!!
😂😂 WTF. Yeah yeah whatever you say 😅🤣.
@@richardluce775 do you think Mike Holmes on homes got it🤣🤣🤣
Thank You Josh I learned a lot in 10 minutes.
Watching your videos i was able to do my own home repairs thanks man
Thanks Josh. Great video and tips. Flashing tape for sure. One thing I do if I can is add blocking to the first stud adjacent to opening to bind the area to reduce rattle after closing. Sort of helps..lol or makes me feel better.
I like the flashing tape idea.
Awesome video and great attitude I appreciate you buddy this helps me a lot
Brother, your videos are amazing
Thank you Brother!
You just saved me almost $300 on installation, for my garage door I need to change!
💯😎👍🏻
I just started watching your channel a couple weeks ago when I began enclosing my carport for a sewing room for my wife. You have answered ALL my questions!!! I was specifically interested in your 3-way switch wiring video. Great content! Not overdone! Very easy to understand! And you narrate like a real person! Thank you, Josh!!! I'll be referring to this video when I install the 36" door as well as the 6' French doors. Do you happen to have a video for installing a set of in-swing French doors?
Glad I found it channel. Great content. Not a lot of channels focused on "blocking and tackling". You can never win without em'
Good job.
Thanks Sam! I’m glad you are enjoying my content. I try to make my videos as detailed as possible. Stay tuned!
Great video! Very helpful. Thank you.
You are welcome. I’m glad I could help!
Thanks for the video! Was super helpful for my first exterior door installation this weekend.
Hey! Glad to see this as a start to finish job. I plan on moving an exterior door on a load bearing wall. Funny enough, my main concern wasn't the load bearing wall itself (build a sister wall is all!) but moreso hanging the door itself. Seems like a fairly simple process but seems many things can be done wrong.
I will be building on wood, the concern is the sill ate sagging over time if it needs significant shimming. What adhesive/sealant do you recommend for wood/wood install?
Things I learned from the video and comments:
1. Flashing above the door. I will go the extra mile and do the sides because I am a paranoid overbuilder.
2. Sealing/adhesive for the sill before placing the door.
3. Shims behind hinges and wherever you place a screw or nail.
4. Relates to #3 for getting a good reveal.
Great video!
Great video. Liked and subbed.
Appreciate that. Good luck with your project!
Great tutorial Josh! One of my next projects pre winter up in northern wisconsinnn😂
You did just fine, great job on your videos.
"Boom!" Great install.
Great work. Subscribed and will follow your videos.
Thank you so much Robert!
Josh, You really explained the process perfectly! I needed it today, but hadn't see your video yet. Now I can go do the install right! Kudos to you! And thanks a bunch!
Thanks. You’re saving my sanity
On the door should have taped sides first then ran to so moisture would shed better, like a window would be bottom side side top
Awesome and amazing brother good job
Nice! Thanks Josh
I used to install doors. We used these cool screws that screw into the door jamb. There is a t25 adjustment screw. Super easy. Forgot what they are called that's been years ago.
Great video. Very clear and straight to the point.
I try you keep all of my videos easy to understand. Good luck with your project!
Just thanks brother. good job
Nice video bro from one Forman to another
Liquid nails? Liquid nails turns brittle, cracks, then leaks. Always seal with construction "sealant" not adhesive.
Is caulking good? Or does it need to be a certain type of caulking like thermoplastic
Rain buster is a great sealant.
Finally, a carpenter or tradesman 😊
I have installed several pre hung exterior door and frames over the last 40 years. Always turned out a pretty good finish product.
After watching your video I can honestly say I am in deed a better installer. Home Depot sold me an Ryobi cordless brad nailer and with the knowledge you shared I turned out an even more excellent product in better than average time for myself.
Thank you and keep up the good videos.
Jack I love this comment! At first I thought it was a troll comment and realized it was a cool comment. Thanks a lot for it. I used to install doors for Home Depot years ago. You definitely get a lot of repetition in! Stay tuned!
@@TheExcellentLaborer I am indeed a better installer... after watching your video! lol
Nice job. You can also get a metal drip cap for the top of the door.
Thanks Josh. I ready to take on my new exterior door install thanks to you.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
Same!
great job on the vid!!! very descriptive and mucho respecto on doin this all alone and also capturing all the video between the process. hope you are having a great day!
Thanks Eric! I try to make the videos as descriptive as possible. Sometimes it is very challenging when working alone and recording. I still get it done! My day has been good. Hope you have an amazing week! 💪🏻💪🏻
I love how you explain all the things you do, I'm learn a lot of about construction I'm planning to build my house with your videos!!!keep going!!...
Thank you👍
The siders gonna pull the tyvek tape and flashing tape. paint and caulk wont adhere well. Top will get metal flashing and the tape will need to be on top of that flashing and the side of the brick mold will get caulk when siding butts into it.
You would use that flashing tape if the door didnt come with brick mold. If it came with a flange, then you'd use the flange to hang the door then use the flashing tape over the flange to seal those penetrations.
He'll be doing the siding himself so shouldn't be any issues, haven't you been watching? He's built the whole house himself. With help from his Dad and friends and some contractor's here and there.
Flashing tape goes behind the brickmold or any casing. Don't be a caulking gun carpenter...learn to do it right... House wrap IS NOT FLASHING. learn please
Awesome video. Thanks man! Very good quality and information delivery.
Keep it up 👍🏼
Superb video. No B/S and straight to the point. 👏
Thank you!
Thanks!
Thank you so much for your support. I really appreciate it!
Thks Brother.
Awesome!
Josh, great video. Thank you
Thanks!
“It’s okay if your head reveal is over a 1/4” different on each side, the weight over time will fix that” sounds like every Home Owner DIY I have ever heard 😂
Thanks A Lot, Josh!! Simple & to the Point!! I'll let Ya Know how it goes Wednesday or Thursday! (Depending on the Rain).
I'm figuring two Hours after the old door is removed!! I'm old & don't move like I used to!! Thanks Again.
Hey Josh the door install looks Awesome!!! You showed me how to install a door very easily
Good job bro, thanks
Question: I noticed your garage walls are on top of a cement block starter row, which with our garage makes a gap towards the bottom of the door where the cement block is because the 7/16” sheathing is covering the wall. I may be not explaining this correctly. Do you have pictures of the area on the outside of the door at the areas where the cement blocks are? How do you conceal the gap where the brick mold is not touching the blocks on the bottom section of the door? On the door we are replacing, water got in behind the brick mold because of the 7/16” gap and started to rot the boards running down on each side of the rough opening. Just like your video. Any suggestions so this is done correctly. I did buy a door with a compost/pvc jamb & brickmold. Appreciate any help with this issue.
thanks for the help josh
You are welcome Bob!
Thank you
Great job Josh, now I know exactly what to do
thanks.
You are welcome! Good luck with your project!
Great Video
This is great - would this also apply to installing same door on shed. Unit have the framing done and wrapped just the door gotta go in but need to be flat with the wall finish
Thank you for sharing
Correct way - aluminum drip cap on top of door , covered by any type of flashing tape covered by house wrap . No water will get there ever . When time comes to sidewall it will make your life much easier zzz
Great video. The project I was doing was pretty much the same one as you did in the video. Couple of small issues I ran into were the same ones you highlighted so I knew how to deal with them.
Can’t thank you enough.
You are welcome! I’m glad I could help. Stay tuned!!
I’m still confused how only 4 screws are going to hold that whole door against the wind and storms ? What else I suppose to do to make the door more secure against Mother Nature and the kids when they gonna bang the door?
When I was watching I saw him use more than 4 by the time the door was installed 🎉
Good video brother.
Hey, did you feel that channel or gap with wood under the sill?
That space looks like it could be pushed in, if not filled in with wood
This guy jumps right into it and straight to the point. My kinda dude!
No time to waste. I’d like to get as much work done as possible. Time is of the essence. Thanks for watching!
What do you do with the gap on the outside bottom between the brick moulding and the foundation where the plywood stops
The perfect world is so nice (plumb, flush, level, size that fits, etc), wish I was there.
Thank you bro!
Nice and short thanks
No problem!
Now that my kitchen base cabinets are done this is my next project. The door going from dining room to garage is getting an insulated exterior one. Also the rough opening needs to be enlarged. Ceramic tile on concrete.
Is it typical for the rough entrance to be offset? We all can't be perfect, but noticed that when you put the door jamb in.
I used to use top stars they work very well and don't need to shim
I just had a garage/shop built and the doors need some work due to their lack of attention like this. Thanks! This is probably the most useful site I have seen on youtube, nice work and I would kill for a friend you like you near me. I like to do things myself but my lack on knowledge ends up costing me since I have to pay someone.
I am glad you are liking my channel! I started this channel to help people that were curious about how to do these types of things. Having a friend that is knowledgeable is a big help. I appreciate you watching!
You made it look easy!!! Good tips and method!! Thx
I appreciate that. I hope this video is helpful for you. Thanks for watching!
Fantastic presentation!
nice and short, thanks
You are welcome!
His mommy would like his little smile every time he stops talking
😀
Thanks for showing us the proper way to do something.
You are welcome!
For once Ivan agree with this guy and his technique The only thing I’d recommend differently is that I NEVER nail through my shins. I can’t tell you how many times things have shifted, shrunk or swelled needing a readjustment. If you don’t nail the shims, you can remove or add shims easily to readjust the frame. There are more tricks that I use to hang a door in an old opening where nothing is plum, level or square I have hung probably a thousand doors in my short time of 70 years