Stop apologizing Keith. I think that you did a really nice job on this. It's supposed to look like a very nice 1890s bandsaw...! Thanks for sharing the video. Much appreciated.
I was going to say the same thing; There is no need to apologize. The snipes that sit in the comments section and criticize the polish and finish of an industrial machine are not worth the effort. Do not debase yourself for them.
How long would it take to make a ding?? I prefer an industrial look, a neighbour has an old record vice whose grandad used for a long time. He repainted it (which was nice) but i wouldnt have as it shows the life of the vice
@@Tishers Agreed. Just my two cents, but it would be nice to make it look like it did when it left the factory - one hundred and thirty years ago. I'm sure that the perfection that we've grown used to now was not to be had back then.
Keith it’s a bandsaw! You are doing the machine justice and we all know it will look fantastic but more importantly work as well as the day it left the factory. Can’t wait to see the finished item.
I love that old phone books have been replaced by not phone books. Only is olden folks remember phone books! Anyways, not to take away from this clean sheets thing, but all you need is an old phone book, if my jest didn't imply that already. Love this channel!
Somebody will already say, "it's different paper" it's obvious that those that would say that have never actually used a phone book but on the internet, people like to say stuff they don't really know. So anyways, just felt like I should quash that one real quick. Again love this channel!
Great video. If for no other reason than to support the algorithm, I have been using TotalFair, a marine version of what you used. It’s a 1-1 mixture of a blue and yellow and you know you have it fully mixed when the green color is saturated. Like all exothermic reactants, you can slow it down by getting it spread pretty thin after it’s mixed, small batches still better, etc. It also sands well and doesn’t load up the sandpaper. I don’t think any of this is necessarily adding to the knowledge sharing here, unless the community isn’t as aware of the product and the tools and techniques in the maritime trades. Really enjoy your videos and the humility and honesty with which you produce them.
@@Henning_S. as a chemistry masters holder. Yup cool it down and this will stop the molecules reaching the activation energy as quickly. Just look up a bell curve :)
@@stxrynn if you use too much of the hardener it also cures faster, if you use much less hardener than required, it never gets completely solid or at least it is harder to sand down, because it stays a little rubbery. But you can use this to your advantage on flexible parts to prevent the body filler from breaking, just use slightly less hardener...
You are so polite and modest. There are lots of guys who can slap on fillers but couldn’t touch your engineering knowledge and abilities. Greetings from Ireland.
Your dog is all growed up now. As I remember it, that dog was a pup when you put up the video showing us where you would be building your new workshop. Thanks for the memories.
Thanks Keith, so many comments and not enough appreciation. I have felt the weight on you and others as you start to anticipate the crap people will say before you even start a project. My favorite Steve Jobs quote ~ “Do you create anything, or just criticize others work and belittle their motivations?”
I won’t shake my head at your work because we all started somewhere. It’s is painfull to watch the suffering beginning boobery but you did alright at it. A bondo hog would be the trick. I am still learning and you know a lot of stuff and that stuff I wouldn’t even now how to begin.
Looks good Keith. The real job in filling is how you hold the spreader so you fill in the valleys. That is where the filler has to be thick and is most vulnerable to being gouged out with a flexible spreader. But - it look great. We can only like once each posting and once subscribed - always on the list. And I save them all.
Better than new. Coincidentally, this week I'm restoring a 1967 US Burke Millrite milling machine. Currently partly stripping the column and was in the market for a body filler. Thanks for the tip on the Evercote, just ordered. Your process is as I would do it, thin coats. Just like when I do sheetrock work on remodeling or repairs, thin coats to build a uniform blended in finish. Great work and thank you.
What I appreciate about your work Kieth is the pride you put into it. The finished result will be superior to when it left the factory as new! It's a joy to watch. Thank you! Ian with greetings from London England.
My Father-in-law, was a AAA cabinet builder. He was a wizard on wood and finishing. Once He let me help him do a remodel on cabinets in a kitchen (they were mine). I was fretting on how it was taking so long to accomplish, and he said to me "relax, we ain't building a piano". Great video and nice job on the Lambergenny!
I was called Snowman back in the early 80's. I restored 64 1/2 to 70 year model mustangs. I have applied 100s of gallons of body filler. Everyone has their own way of applying it and whatever works for you. Just keep the air bubbles to a minimum when mixing it. I used 1/4 inch plexiglass for a mixing board and cleaned lacquer thinner.
I've only done a couple cars, so nowhere near your experience. I used a kitchen cutting board, one of the white poly ones with a smooth finish, for mixing. You just let the unused bondo harden, then bend or twist the board and it falls right off, no cleaning necessary.
Sensitive Adjustments: One way to make sensitive adjustments easier is to put a tape flag on the shank of the screwdriver or adjustment tool. The flag makes it easier to see how much adjustment has been cranked in. (This was an old Heathkit hint.) I realize that the comment is about Monday’s video - but put it in Friday’s video comments. Thanks for the videos.
Just smooth over the worst lows, fill the little voids and porosity, sand it fairly smooth and that's enough. The more work you do, the less it will look like the original! Enjoyed your video as always Keith!
Initially, I would have left raw sandblasted casting. Shows the character of the machine. However, having said that it looks REALLY NICE! Now I would probably gone to the extra expense and hassle...it looks that good. Well done.
turned out great IMO. Great video! The design of that casting reminds me of Kids In The Hall videos of a thumb & finger pinching saying "I crrush yo head! I'm crushing your head! crush crush crush" haha
It is unfortunate that you feel the need for so many disclaimers. I watch you because I like what you are doing and I like the way you do it. I know that many people comment on everything and nit pick. I hope you don't allow these negative people to get to you. We all like what you are doing and hope that you continue doing it.
Fair to say that this is the reverse process to scraping. Adding thin layers to get to smooth by filling, instead of taking away thin pieces of the high spots.
Great job as always Keith. Quit apologizing, you found a method that works for you and that's all that matters. You do you buddy!!!!!!!! Again, very good job and always a pleasure watching your vidoes!!!!
Very nice video. I’ve always heard about body fillers but didn’t know a thing about it. You covered it just enough to make me aware of it and didn’t bore me watching too much detail.
The bandsaw looks great! If it were mine I would paint it a hunter green as my first bandsaw from Grizzly was that color and I thought it made the machine look great. Best Regards Fred Thomas
The body filler - yes very difficult to get the right measures of paste and hardener - Like with the isopon plastic padding we used to use, a fair bit of paste with a tiny bead of hardener, but if that tiny bead is just a tiny bit bigger, the stuff goes off way too quick! Excellent job, Keith, I'm sure JD is happy with it so far! :)
No need to apologize about the Bondo. I have seen some ungodly things done with it. Back in the early 80's I worked for a local school district as a mechanic. They had sent me downtown to pick up a windshield. I got it and was on the way back stopped at a traffic light waiting for it to change. This car pulled up next to me BOOM-BA-BOOM-BOOM-BA-BOOM. Music you could have heard all over town. I think they were called low riders a few years later. All of a sudden I heard a crack and what sounded like gravel hitting the ground. So help me, a 15 to 20 POUND chunk of Bondo had fallen off his car revealing a major dent. So I rolled down the window and told him in some very RUclips inappropriate language what I thought of his Bondo skills. Man, he was pissed. So, again; certainly no need for you to apologize. I think you did pretty well.
Evercoat makes a 2-part finishing glaze called icing. Works very nice for filling small dings or low spots and sand scratches. Doesn't shrink back like the glaze you used and sands very nice. I will sometimes use a thinner for the glaze called plastic honey if needed. Also Keith, you might consider a single stage urethane paint instead of oil base enamel. Holds up really well against damage from dirt, oils, and solvents and is easier to clean up as well. A project like this is more than worth the extra cost of materials. Anyhow, saw is looking good Keith and I can't wait to see the ole girl making cuts again!
before you start the 2nd coat of filler (after sanding the first) fog a very light coat of a contrasting primer on. Then just like when you are scraping the lows will show up.
Kinda looks like Paul Bunyan's stationary bike in the making! But all kidding aside it's really becoming a showpiece and a delight to behold. Kieth has great perseverance and an eye for detail and the experience to get it done right.
Keith your to slow with the pudgy knife .You can add Bondo Hunny to make it thinner glove on smear it on by hand works nice around curves .use a air sander disk , or orabel typ sander and use a spray HV FILLER AND EPOXY COLOR FINISH . 😋
For a machine that's over a century old it's looking great. I'm like you Keith, it's also not my favorite past time to do body filler and sanding but even if there are some imperfections the finished look is already alot better.
"It is what it is" A 100 year old casting being made to took ok. Brilliant as always. I was only confused at possible future problems when you start pouring babbet for the lower bearing. Obviously I will learn more when you get there.
2:30 .. I use a plain sheet of window glass, cleans up SO easy, just sand the edges with window glass with emery cloth, or use a glass grinder if you know anyone who does stained glass stuff.
Clean up is a waste of time. Use a piece of cardboard, spread your leftover mud smooth on the cardboard and use it again and again until it gets too heavy to be comfortable.
Looks great Keith and whoever finally gets this bandsaw will be happy with it as well. It’s tough to put 💄 on a 🐷 As for doing body work. My only equivalent experience is finishing drywall. I don’t enjoy doing it but I do do a good job of it. Build it up with thin coats or it just ends up on the floor when you sand it.
Good choice with using the Rage. It is by far the best. Worth the price for sure. Just gotta make sure to rough it down asap because it will get very hard if you let it set to long.
great video as you said, the finish desired is not a piano like finish so if you have used a rigid metallic spreader, the finishing would have been much less tedious as the thichness control of the filler is much better. on the finition coats, when the shape permits it, I prefer use a rigid spring steel style spreader, it pays off at the final sanding operations.
I'm a cabinet maker and usually have a piece of Formica around that I can mix on. If you scrape it off while the filler is green it's generally not an issue. If you do get a little build up it comes off with lacquer thinner.....(what works for me)
good work! Love the Evercoat line! One suggestion on the sanding though, hit that stuff with 36 grit AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. As soon as it starts to harden and not make 'bugers' when sanding its ready to sand. Work a small section at a time and it will go MUCH quicker than doing the whole project one layer at a time.
Looks great! You did a great job of putting the whole filler process and your experience in perspective- no complaints from me! To put it another way, body filler experts may not be that great at scraping a surface or machining a part-we all have our strengths.
I know if it was my choice, I would have loved to see the raw, rough casting. No doubt, it looks amazing with all the filler, though. Nice job. Even if you're not an experienced filler, it looks really good.
hey kieth ..its been a while since i piped up so thanks for the videos. i feel a need to go full keyboard commando on you lol and i have less experience at thin than you , but spent several decades with a pole sander and a roller and putty knives which i think may help. 1 a larger blade will make leveling the surface easier and keep the edge clean. it seems from random internet car shows and my painting years ....first coat as heavy as you can dont even try for neat just full coverage with a large blade...then move to the 6 inch . while mixing the catalyst try not to mix air into the filler i suspect there will be fewer pinholes to glaze. best of 2022 to you
Hello Keith, your videos are great and very informative, I would say with a lot of my machines I rebuilt I like to keep it as original as possible and that means sometimes to prime and paint, and not bonding as the perceptions are the diamonds of the machine as they were never the same machine, as different operators and finishers . From manufacturers. Cheers and keep up the great work
I have a sheet of glass I use, and have had for years. By the time I get what I'm using spread out a quick pass with a single edge razorblade and it's ready for the next batch ... ;)
@@debeeriz This is not old car window glass. It is a one-foot by one-foot square of 1/4" plate glass with rubber feet on the bottom to make it easier to pick up. It is not tempered glass. And in 40+ years I've never dropped it...
Great stuff once again, Keith! I used to help my father-in-law with body work. More filler wound up in shreds on the floor than remained on the vehicle.
@@johncoops6897 Not me, father in law. He had a cheese grater like tool, one inch wide and a foot long. I knew he was doing it wrong, but that's the way he did it. More like building with clay and sculpting😂
Hey Keith, I believe evercoat makes a “thinner” filler for doing the small fill jobs that works well after you get most the big stuff filled and gives you that glass finish
It's called "(Evercoat) Plastic Honey". It works well for thinning the filler, and if you have a can of filler that was not sealed properly (and dried out), it can make it useable once again.
One point I will make about the conventional Bondo brand filler vs the Evercoat one, the hardener is red and the base resin is grey, so you can tell how well the hardener has been mixed in by how uniform the pink color is. with a yellow resin and a white hardener, it is harder to tell how well the hardener is mixed in.
You done over all nice job. Think you might have used a little less putty personally like the texture left from the casting. But looks really nice you way too.
Stop apologizing Keith. I think that you did a really nice job on this. It's supposed to look like a very nice 1890s bandsaw...! Thanks for sharing the video. Much appreciated.
I was going to say the same thing; There is no need to apologize. The snipes that sit in the comments section and criticize the polish and finish of an industrial machine are not worth the effort. Do not debase yourself for them.
How long would it take to make a ding?? I prefer an industrial look, a neighbour has an old record vice whose grandad used for a long time. He repainted it (which was nice) but i wouldnt have as it shows the life of the vice
@@Tishers Agreed. Just my two cents, but it would be nice to make it look like it did when it left the factory - one hundred and thirty years ago. I'm sure that the perfection that we've grown used to now was not to be had back then.
Looking good you are the first non professional I've seen that uses the applicator the right way 👍👍👍
Keith, this part needs to be added to the playlist.
Keith it’s a bandsaw! You are doing the machine justice and we all know it will look fantastic but more importantly work as well as the day it left the factory. Can’t wait to see the finished item.
Looks great.
No worries.
Sounds like you have a cold.
Get better.
at the point with the glazing putty, got a nice Bob Ross vibe--happy little dings--fill it in just like that, wherever you think it needs to go . . .
I love that old phone books have been replaced by not phone books. Only is olden folks remember phone books! Anyways, not to take away from this clean sheets thing, but all you need is an old phone book, if my jest didn't imply that already. Love this channel!
Somebody will already say, "it's different paper" it's obvious that those that would say that have never actually used a phone book but on the internet, people like to say stuff they don't really know. So anyways, just felt like I should quash that one real quick. Again love this channel!
Anxiously awaiting the color reveal.
Great video. If for no other reason than to support the algorithm, I have been using TotalFair, a marine version of what you used. It’s a 1-1 mixture of a blue and yellow and you know you have it fully mixed when the green color is saturated. Like all exothermic reactants, you can slow it down by getting it spread pretty thin after it’s mixed, small batches still better, etc. It also sands well and doesn’t load up the sandpaper. I don’t think any of this is necessarily adding to the knowledge sharing here, unless the community isn’t as aware of the product and the tools and techniques in the maritime trades. Really enjoy your videos and the humility and honesty with which you produce them.
The best way to slow it down is to keep it as cold as possible...
I don't need to use things like this very often, but having options and recommendations are welcome. Thanks for the info.
@@Henning_S. as a chemistry masters holder. Yup cool it down and this will stop the molecules reaching the activation energy as quickly. Just look up a bell curve :)
@@stxrynn if you use too much of the hardener it also cures faster, if you use much less hardener than required, it never gets completely solid or at least it is harder to sand down, because it stays a little rubbery. But you can use this to your advantage on flexible parts to prevent the body filler from breaking, just use slightly less hardener...
You are so polite and modest. There are lots of guys who can slap on fillers but couldn’t touch your engineering knowledge and abilities. Greetings from Ireland.
Your dog is all growed up now. As I remember it, that dog was a pup when you put up the video showing us where you would be building your new workshop. Thanks for the memories.
Thanks Keith, so many comments and not enough appreciation. I have felt the weight on you and others as you start to anticipate the crap people will say before you even start a project.
My favorite Steve Jobs quote ~ “Do you create anything, or just criticize others work and belittle their motivations?”
All the best from the Netherlands
Sure enjoying this series!! 💯
I won’t shake my head at your work because we all started somewhere. It’s is painfull to watch the suffering beginning boobery but you did alright at it. A bondo hog would be the trick. I am still learning and you know a lot of stuff and that stuff I wouldn’t even now how to begin.
"Perfection is the enemy of progress."
Enjoying the series, especially given the scale of the casting.
Thumbs up for Brock too 👍
Great job,thanks for the video, and you didn't go overboard🤗😎🤗😎
Always look forward to your videos
Looks good Keith. The real job in filling is how you hold the spreader so you fill in the valleys. That is where the filler has to be thick and is most vulnerable to being gouged out with a flexible spreader. But - it look great. We can only like once each posting and once subscribed - always on the list. And I save them all.
Good job Keith! It's really good that you're bringing Brock along to learn a bit and become a crafts capable grownup!
“Going overboard?” You’re not alone in the water! Thanks for the video. Looking forward to the mechanical work.
Better than new. Coincidentally, this week I'm restoring a 1967 US Burke Millrite milling machine. Currently partly stripping the column and was in the market for a body filler. Thanks for the tip on the Evercote, just ordered. Your process is as I would do it, thin coats. Just like when I do sheetrock work on remodeling or repairs, thin coats to build a uniform blended in finish. Great work and thank you.
great look Keith
looks great Keith
2:20 I love those onion skin mixing palettes, they make working with filler SO much easier.
Keith it's 100 years in age and bring it back to life to sever another tour of duty. Many more years of happy sawing.
What I appreciate about your work Kieth is the pride you put into it. The finished result will be superior to when it left the factory as new! It's a joy to watch. Thank you! Ian with greetings from London England.
My Father-in-law, was a AAA cabinet builder. He was a wizard on wood and finishing. Once He let me help him do a remodel on cabinets in a kitchen (they were mine). I was fretting on how it was taking so long to accomplish, and he said to me "relax, we ain't building a piano". Great video and nice job on the Lambergenny!
I was called Snowman back in the early 80's. I restored 64 1/2 to 70 year model mustangs. I have applied 100s of gallons of body filler. Everyone has their own way of applying it and whatever works for you. Just keep the air bubbles to a minimum when mixing it. I used 1/4 inch plexiglass for a mixing board and cleaned lacquer thinner.
A dedicated piece of sheet aluminum or plexiglass is cheaper than the one-time sheets of paper.
I've only done a couple cars, so nowhere near your experience. I used a kitchen cutting board, one of the white poly ones with a smooth finish, for mixing. You just let the unused bondo harden, then bend or twist the board and it falls right off, no cleaning necessary.
Sensitive Adjustments: One way to make sensitive adjustments easier is to put a tape flag on the shank of the screwdriver or adjustment tool. The flag makes it easier to see how much adjustment has been cranked in. (This was an old Heathkit hint.) I realize that the comment is about Monday’s video - but put it in Friday’s video comments. Thanks for the videos.
I would of just primed and put a hammer coat finish if I were lazy but this is the correct way of completing a full restoration. Looks good.
That thing is awesome good work
Nice to see Elliot out there helping!
I have a dozen machines that need a bog & paint job , you are welcome to come & do them , it's not my cup of tea either !!!
Just smooth over the worst lows, fill the little voids and porosity, sand it fairly smooth and that's enough. The more work you do, the less it will look like the original! Enjoyed your video as always Keith!
Initially, I would have left raw sandblasted casting. Shows the character of the machine. However, having said that it looks REALLY NICE! Now I would probably gone to the extra expense and hassle...it looks that good. Well done.
Looks good..great video as usual
turned out great IMO. Great video! The design of that casting reminds me of Kids In The Hall videos of a thumb & finger pinching saying "I crrush yo head! I'm crushing your head! crush crush crush" haha
It is unfortunate that you feel the need for so many disclaimers. I watch you because I like what you are doing and I like the way you do it. I know that many people comment on everything and nit pick. I hope you don't allow these negative people to get to you. We all like what you are doing and hope that you continue doing it.
Fair to say that this is the reverse process to scraping. Adding thin layers to get to smooth by filling, instead of taking away thin pieces of the high spots.
Looking good the filler work. Happy New Year to you and your family . Greetings from germany,
I'm really enjoying this journey Keith. Thanks!
Thanks for doing this. It's not fun to demonstrate what you are not super comfortable doing. But it is helpful to the community. Thanks!
GREAT VIDEO, PET THE CATS AND DOGS, TELL EVERYBODY HELLO, SEE YOU ALL NEXT TIME...
looks great, Keith...your methods look much the same as mine! Hardest part is knowing when to quit!
That filling meets or exceeds any reasonable standard. Thanks!
good job keith
Great job as always Keith. Quit apologizing, you found a method that works for you and that's all that matters. You do you buddy!!!!!!!! Again, very good job and always a pleasure watching your vidoes!!!!
Very nice video. I’ve always heard about body fillers but didn’t know a thing about it. You covered it just enough to make me aware of it and didn’t bore me watching too much detail.
Most excellent... as usual.
The bandsaw looks great! If it were mine I would paint it a hunter green as my first bandsaw from Grizzly was that color and I thought it made the machine look great.
Best Regards
Fred Thomas
The body filler - yes very difficult to get the right measures of paste and hardener - Like with the isopon plastic padding we used to use, a fair bit of paste with a tiny bead of hardener, but if that tiny bead is just a tiny bit bigger, the stuff goes off way too quick! Excellent job, Keith, I'm sure JD is happy with it so far! :)
No need to apologize about the Bondo. I have seen some ungodly things done with it. Back in the early 80's I worked for a local school district as a mechanic. They had sent me downtown to pick up a windshield. I got it and was on the way back stopped at a traffic light waiting for it to change. This car pulled up next to me BOOM-BA-BOOM-BOOM-BA-BOOM. Music you could have heard all over town. I think they were called low riders a few years later. All of a sudden I heard a crack and what sounded like gravel hitting the ground. So help me, a 15 to 20 POUND chunk of Bondo had fallen off his car revealing a major dent. So I rolled down the window and told him in some very RUclips inappropriate language what I thought of his Bondo skills. Man, he was pissed. So, again; certainly no need for you to apologize. I think you did pretty well.
Fly me out there next time, I could knock that out in a day. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Keith, looking forward to the babbit and assembly alignments.
Looking for pinholes you missed led me to clean my screen. Good job!
Evercoat makes a 2-part finishing glaze called icing. Works very nice for filling small dings or low spots and sand scratches. Doesn't shrink back like the glaze you used and sands very nice. I will sometimes use a thinner for the glaze called plastic honey if needed. Also Keith, you might consider a single stage urethane paint instead of oil base enamel. Holds up really well against damage from dirt, oils, and solvents and is easier to clean up as well. A project like this is more than worth the extra cost of materials. Anyhow, saw is looking good Keith and I can't wait to see the ole girl making cuts again!
Doing a great job, keep up the great work.
I do autobody. That is some of the best filler out.
Keith Compared to what you are starting with, it will look great!
before you start the 2nd coat of filler (after sanding the first) fog a very light coat of a contrasting primer on. Then just like when you are scraping the lows will show up.
I absolutely agree
Looking good Keith. Thanks for the video.
Hi Keith - this video wasn't included in the playlist for the restoration project
Kinda looks like Paul Bunyan's stationary bike in the making! But all kidding aside it's really becoming a showpiece and a delight to behold. Kieth has great perseverance and an eye for detail and the experience to get it done right.
Keith your to slow with the pudgy knife .You can add Bondo Hunny to make it thinner glove on smear it on by hand works nice around curves .use a air sander disk , or orabel typ sander and use a spray HV FILLER AND EPOXY COLOR FINISH . 😋
For a machine that's over a century old it's looking great.
I'm like you Keith, it's also not my favorite past time to do body filler and sanding but even if there are some imperfections the finished look is already alot better.
Great Job! I really enjoy your projects and attention to detail!
"It is what it is" A 100 year old casting being made to took ok. Brilliant as always. I was only confused at possible future problems when you start pouring babbet for the lower bearing. Obviously I will learn more when you get there.
2:30 .. I use a plain sheet of window glass, cleans up SO easy, just sand the edges with window glass with emery cloth, or use a glass grinder if you know anyone who does stained glass stuff.
Clean up is a waste of time. Use a piece of cardboard, spread your leftover mud smooth on the cardboard and use it again and again until it gets too heavy to be comfortable.
Looks great Keith and whoever finally gets this bandsaw will be happy with it as well.
It’s tough to put 💄 on a 🐷
As for doing body work. My only equivalent experience is finishing drywall. I don’t enjoy doing it but I do do a good job of it. Build it up with thin coats or it just ends up on the floor when you sand it.
That casting looks awesome, Keith! You guys did a great job on it! I’m sure Jimmy Diresta will be thrilled! As always, great video!
Good choice with using the Rage. It is by far the best. Worth the price for sure.
Just gotta make sure to rough it down asap because it will get very hard if you let it set to long.
Another great video, thank you. Good to see the foreman there earning his/her living by keeping an eye on you. Have a good one.
great video
as you said, the finish desired is not a piano like finish so if you have used a rigid metallic spreader, the finishing would have been much less tedious as the thichness control of the filler is much better.
on the finition coats, when the shape permits it, I prefer use a rigid spring steel style spreader, it pays off at the final sanding operations.
I'm a cabinet maker and usually have a piece of Formica around that I can mix on. If you scrape it off while the filler is green it's generally not an issue. If you do get a little build up it comes off with lacquer thinner.....(what works for me)
good work! Love the Evercoat line! One suggestion on the sanding though, hit that stuff with 36 grit AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. As soon as it starts to harden and not make 'bugers' when sanding its ready to sand. Work a small section at a time and it will go MUCH quicker than doing the whole project one layer at a time.
Looks good to me Keith, great video, keep'um coming..
Looks great! You did a great job of putting the whole filler process and your experience in perspective- no complaints from me! To put it another way, body filler experts may not be that great at scraping a surface or machining a part-we all have our strengths.
Looks good Keith.
I like the result of the filler and sanding. It's a much smoother job.
Looking really good. Tedious job using the filler. Looking forward to seeing the color on it.
Wonderful machine ..
great job, I know the saw will look beautiful. I am seeing black with gold pin stripes.
The casting looks great!
Looks good !
I know if it was my choice, I would have loved to see the raw, rough casting. No doubt, it looks amazing with all the filler, though. Nice job. Even if you're not an experienced filler, it looks really good.
Nice one keith
hey kieth ..its been a while since i piped up so thanks for the videos. i feel a need to go full keyboard commando on you lol and i have less experience at thin than you , but spent several decades with a pole sander and a roller and putty knives which i think may help. 1 a larger blade will make leveling the surface easier and keep the edge clean. it seems from random internet car shows and my painting years ....first coat as heavy as you can dont even try for neat just full coverage with a large blade...then move to the 6 inch . while mixing the catalyst try not to mix air into the filler i suspect there will be fewer pinholes to glaze. best of 2022 to you
Hello Keith, your videos are great and very informative, I would say with a lot of my machines I rebuilt I like to keep it as original as possible and that means sometimes to prime and paint, and not bonding as the perceptions are the diamonds of the machine as they were never the same machine, as different operators and finishers . From manufacturers. Cheers and keep up the great work
l use 2 litre ice cream tub lids, when it dries you can twist them and the body filler comes off, and my kids go through a tub a week
I have a sheet of glass I use, and have had for years. By the time I get what I'm using spread out a quick pass with a single edge razorblade and it's ready for the next batch ... ;)
@@PhilG999 l found glass [old car door window] too heavy and there was a chance of dropping it carrying it around the car and shattering it
@@debeeriz This is not old car window glass. It is a one-foot by one-foot square of 1/4" plate glass with rubber feet on the bottom to make it easier to pick up. It is not tempered glass. And in 40+ years I've never dropped it...
Great stuff once again, Keith! I used to help my father-in-law with body work. More filler wound up in shreds on the floor than remained on the vehicle.
If you are sanding body filler like that, then you are doing it wrong.
@@johncoops6897 Not me, father in law. He had a cheese grater like tool, one inch wide and a foot long. I knew he was doing it wrong, but that's the way he did it. More like building with clay and sculpting😂
@@tonyc.4528 - The device is called a "Sureform", quite popular with old timers who didn't understand how to use body filler properly.
Looks good.
Nice work!
It looks good to me, Keith. With a good semi-gloss paint job, what imperfections are left won't be as visible.
Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.👍👀
Thanks for sharing 👍
Hey Keith, I believe evercoat makes a “thinner” filler for doing the small fill jobs that works well after you get most the big stuff filled and gives you that glass finish
It's called "(Evercoat) Plastic Honey". It works well for thinning the filler, and if you have a can of filler that was not sealed properly (and dried out), it can make it useable once again.
I just use finishing putty
One point I will make about the conventional Bondo brand filler vs the Evercoat one, the hardener is red and the base resin is grey, so you can tell how well the hardener has been mixed in by how uniform the pink color is. with a yellow resin and a white hardener, it is harder to tell how well the hardener is mixed in.
You done over all nice job. Think you might have used a little less putty personally like the texture left from the casting. But looks really nice you way too.