Took six or twelve months off Keith’s content. Came back for a peep and I hardly recognise him. A shadow of his former self to be sure! Hopefully for good reasons. This channel is still as great as ever.
I restored an old band saw with 36" wooden wheels. I trued the wheels but used a different method. I made a short shaft stub a little bit shorter than the depth of the hub and drilled a hole through it. I then put the wheel on the small piece of shaft and bolted it to my Bridgeport. I used a couple greased heavy washers on the top and a couple nuts I could tighten against each other so I could adjust the tension. I put a straight router bit in a collet and slowly turned the band saw wheel (I think it was a 1/2" router bit but can't remember). The wheel came out absolutely true and super smooth. I just used what I could find in the shop but it turned out well.
So pleased you tidied up the edges of the wheel-rims. They are going to look great and pin-striping the spokes would really please Jimmy and look wonderful. And it's NOT boring.
Keith, your inventiveness never ceases to amaze. Light natural finish on the sides and inner face will look beautiful. You can use a water based vinyl paint, dries quickly, sand, 2nd coat, fine sand and 3rd coat will be a smooth satin finish all within 2 hours. Pin striping will put the crowning touch to it. The rubber tire can be made from a thick rubber strip held on with adhesive. That is usually a rubber type. Don't use epoxy. The guy who has to change that tyre will curse you to eternity if you do. Would suggest you face the wheels with a very hard glossy paint to make replacement easier.There is one requirement - the joint is perfect. Good Job, well done.
A giant (to me, anyway) refurbished vintage machine being used to refurbish a different giant vintage machine. It's a such a satisfying thing to watch. I can only imagine how satisfying it must be to DO!
A while back i got into hand plane restoration videos and i found a young man restoring a hand plane that was made for facing off the axial faces of those wheels, wagon wheels etc. It had a collar that fit over an axle and a rod leading out to a mounting plate that screwed into the side of the hand plane. Very interesting to me. Similar to the old string trick to draw a circle. Looked like a standard smoothing plane.
Keith, freight wagons used heated tires on the wooden wheels for durability, and they were installed in a similar fashion. Engels Coach Shop does this.
The steel tyre performs a more important purpose than durability, in that ,when it shrinks onto the rim ,it applies enormous compression on all the wooden parts and forces them together
I have been watching RUclips videos from Engle's Coach Shop, and he has a genuine vintage wagon wheel lathe. And get this: in the background of at least one of his videos, I noticed he has a Crescent Bandsaw like yours. And he knows all about preheating metal tires and fitting them around the wheels, like you told in this video about doing so to the bandsaw hub.
Engles has steamed many wheels and wooden parts on his videos. Here is one of my favorites from a few years ago: ruclips.net/video/mHAbShWQ7JI/видео.html
He thought I would definitely agree with you about leaving the wood leaving the color of the wood don't paint it this is Bob from Vero Beach Florida God bless a safe have a great week and keep up all the good videos I wish I could do it
I'm not at all surprised how true that wheel is. The general consensus is anything 100+ years old came from a barbaric time where precision was impossible while the truth is precision wasn't an option it was the only option. If anyone was wondering .180 is a bit less than 3/16". Pretty good for 120+ years and considering how dynamic wood is
Great Job, my OCD was going nuts due to the rough sides until you cleaned it up at the end. I nearly passed out with relief lol. Natural timber look with sealer will be beautiful.
A "wheely" good job! It was surprising to see how little run out it did have to begin with, for something 100+ years old! Thank you for sharing, Keith!
😂 damn, you're an ingenious bugger! LMAO well done Kieth. Wonderfully entertaining, inspirational and practical as always. Still, by far, my favorite RUclips channel.
This is very awesome to see that massive wheel in the Bore Mill. I think Keith the Machinist is now a Wheelwright. Very nice job. Seeing all the work that you have done is great, and tying it all together. Thanks for sharing. Take care, Ed.
After placing the rubber on, I would clean the wood rim edge again then spray clear lacquer once dried polish with Johnson Furniture wax. That would make a beautiful contrast in color to the black tires and spokes.
As others have indicated, that Dave Engles may be of assistance if only with advice, certain types of projects by and for well establishedYou tubers such as yourself, for another such as Jimmy Diresta, creating projects of mutual interest is an exciting prospect for your viewers and will promote income interest for all. Such a unique project can crossover many fields. And the input to support each other does not occur often. This is one of those times. Both You and Dave can show how two totally different fields can creatively work in support of a third field as viewers will be very interested in the usage that Jimmy will put this tool to use.
Keith, I just wanted to say you look great! I think it's time to buy some smaller t-shirts. And that's a good problem to have. 😁 I started keto myself but I'm not reaching my goals quite yet.
Once the metal is painted and the wood finished its going to be beautiful. I do think that epoxy might limit the next rebuild, maybe use contact cement like the last build used? That lasted how many decades. DO use a good wood filler for the divots and gaps, that will telegraph thru the rubber if you don't.
I think he meant that he would use the epoxy as a wood filler in those divots.... probably not for the rubber itself. I'm with you in the opinion that Contact cement would be best for the rubber itself.
Big toys for big boys! I've never seen a bandsaw this BIG! I thought the one used on the Tally Ho rebuild project was big, but this is NUTS! Looking forward to seeing it in action! GO TEAM KEITH!
You’re right even though it’s not being used but it was mainly intended for it’s exciting that it seems to be working just fine.. you couldn’t ask for more when wanting to true that wheel up..👍
Fascinating! "15 RPM" is just not a 'feed and speed' component you hear every day... Send some of those chips to Adam. You know what a kick he would get out of them... As old as that wood rim is, I'm sure it's very 'stable,' but do you think it's important to seal it right away to avoid moisture changes?
@20:08 I was just thinking about putting some stain and varnish on that wood! Wouldn't be "period correct" but it would really wake up the appearance of that saw!
I would fill and stabilize the raw wood by immersing the rim in a 50% mixture of (preferably) warmed turpentine and boiled linseed oil for an extended period of time. One way of doing this would be leaving the wheel in the boring mill as is, followed by placing a long narrow pan filled with the mixture of oil and turpentine, followed by rotating the wheel to a new section to be treated every 24 hours or so, requiring a week or more to complete. But hey what's the rush? Followed a week or so later by applying 2 or more coats of Water-based, Clear, Minwax, Semi-gloss, Polycrylic finish to complete the job, applying steel wool rubdowns between each coat.
That's probably some old wood that's seeing the light of day for the first time in a long time. Maybe just some linseed oil? Anyway, I'm sure Jimmy will be thrilled with this when it's all done.
Shipyards use the same method of heating the hub to install wheels(props) for boats. The towboat I run has around 113" wheels. Getting them on the shaft is quite a chore.
When are you going to finish the "capstan rebuild" for Leo on Tally Ho? I am excited to see you rebuild that unit, especially the cover or wheel that broke. I feel Leo slacks on the amount of video footage when he subs out parts of the work on the boat, or lets someone do the work off site. An example is, the masts [which required specialized tools & skill] and the fancy woodwork for the fore or aft companionway, which one was done at an employee's home shop. So I am super glad you are doing the work, and I hope you make several video episodes, especially showing the casting repair or re-make. Thanks
Was wondering if you have to do any other work after truing those wheels? Are the blade guides adjustable to allow for the slight change in diameter of the wheels? Or can that be corrected by using a thicker tire and leaving it a bit thicker? Do you also need to balance those or isn't that a big issue?
13:58 Keith I'm wondering why remove so much more wood.?.? Wasn't one of the points of the rubber to smooth out the rotating tensions during the use.?.? As well as tracking, and blade traction.? At least that's what my Uncle Mark told me in his machine shop 60 years ago
Did you have a plan for the Gantry Crane dimensions to be able to fit most any task you could envision? When I saw it in this video, one leg behind the Boring Mill and the other far enough away to give you plenty of room to 'twirl' that big wheel with room to spare, it hit me that I have yet to see an application that your gantry couldn't handle. When you built it, I thought you were overbuilding for size, but it seems to be capable of handling everything you have needed so far. Was that luck or planning?
Wood expands and contracts with humidity. The better the sealant, the more dimensionally stable the wheel. You might want to consider sealing it with marine epoxy.
You might want to consider applying boiled linseed oil to the wheel edge. It will darken to a rich “industrial” finish as it ages. It can become a beautiful accent finish to the old saw.
Took six or twelve months off Keith’s content. Came back for a peep and I hardly recognise him. A shadow of his former self to be sure! Hopefully for good reasons. This channel is still as great as ever.
Gee Professor, you really are a Doctor of Machining.
Great Job. Awesomeness Extreme!
An antique machine fixing an antique machine, YEAH!👍👍
This was a really great solution for truing that big wheel. Thank you Keith!
I was the 7000th like!!
Woo Hoo, Keith! Great video, and thanking you for showing us how to do things!
i keep watching this series cant wait to see it finished
I restored an old band saw with 36" wooden wheels. I trued the wheels but used a different method. I made a short shaft stub a little bit shorter than the depth of the hub and drilled a hole through it. I then put the wheel on the small piece of shaft and bolted it to my Bridgeport. I used a couple greased heavy washers on the top and a couple nuts I could tighten against each other so I could adjust the tension. I put a straight router bit in a collet and slowly turned the band saw wheel (I think it was a 1/2" router bit but can't remember). The wheel came out absolutely true and super smooth. I just used what I could find in the shop but it turned out well.
Thanks for this very nice content 👍👍
Wow that looks great, good work. I was a little spectacle on if it was rotten or not. Thanks for sharing. Time well spent on the boring mill.
Super cool
So pleased you tidied up the edges of the wheel-rims. They are going to look great and pin-striping the spokes would really please Jimmy and look wonderful. And it's NOT boring.
Keith, your inventiveness never ceases to amaze. Light natural finish on the sides and inner face will look beautiful. You can use a water based vinyl paint, dries quickly, sand, 2nd coat, fine sand and 3rd coat will be a smooth satin finish all within 2 hours. Pin striping will put the crowning touch to it. The rubber tire can be made from a thick rubber strip held on with adhesive. That is usually a rubber type. Don't use epoxy. The guy who has to change that tyre will curse you to eternity if you do. Would suggest you face the wheels with a very hard glossy paint to make replacement easier.There is one requirement - the joint is perfect. Good Job, well done.
A giant (to me, anyway) refurbished vintage machine being used to refurbish a different giant vintage machine. It's a such a satisfying thing to watch. I can only imagine how satisfying it must be to DO!
Very comforting to see a machine recently restored by you working to restore another.
A wheel like that would make an amazing shop clock!
my friend Jimmy yeas!! gittin 'er done!!
A while back i got into hand plane restoration videos and i found a young man restoring a hand plane that was made for facing off the axial faces of those wheels, wagon wheels etc. It had a collar that fit over an axle and a rod leading out to a mounting plate that screwed into the side of the hand plane. Very interesting to me. Similar to the old string trick to draw a circle. Looked like a standard smoothing plane.
Very nice Keith, that is going to work great.
Keith - you'd make Dave Engels proud in how you restored and kept a those wheels in good shape!
Keith, freight wagons used heated tires on the wooden wheels for durability, and they were installed in a similar fashion. Engels Coach Shop does this.
The steel tyre performs a more important purpose than durability, in that ,when it shrinks onto the rim ,it applies enormous compression on all the wooden parts and forces them together
I have been watching RUclips videos from Engle's Coach Shop, and he has a genuine vintage wagon wheel lathe. And get this: in the background of at least one of his videos, I noticed he has a Crescent Bandsaw like yours. And he knows all about preheating metal tires and fitting them around the wheels, like you told in this video about doing so to the bandsaw hub.
thank you Keith
Dave Engels at EngelsCoachShop doesn't steam bend his felloes but cuts them out with a bandsaw. Making wagon wheels is fascinating to watch.
This is the usual construction method. I have never heard of seam bending a vehicle wheel rim
Engles has steamed many wheels and wooden parts on his videos. Here is one of my favorites from a few years ago: ruclips.net/video/mHAbShWQ7JI/видео.html
I really enjoy his channel
@@paulcopeland9035 he only bandsaws the big ones. The smaller ones he often bends as far as I can remember. Fascinating channel
@@09conrado no, remember they have wooden spokes that fit on the hubs first.
Awesome job !!!!! Shellac would be a perfect period correct finish on the wood.
Very clever use of your horizontal boring mill! 🙂
Great to see the boring mill in action after all this time.
Thanks Keith very interesting. Thanks for sharing
some fine work there keith!! thanks!
Nice Anglelock tool post.
He thought I would definitely agree with you about leaving the wood leaving the color of the wood don't paint it this is Bob from Vero Beach Florida God bless a safe have a great week and keep up all the good videos I wish I could do it
What a great job for the first use of your boreing machine. The view fom here of that wheel gently spinning back to life was wonderful.
Great to see the machine make it's first chips since restoration... 🙂
My favorite episode so far in the band saw restoration. If Jimmey is watching, he's gotta be pleased.
You can bet big time he is watching!
I'm not at all surprised how true that wheel is. The general consensus is anything 100+ years old came from a barbaric time where precision was impossible while the truth is precision wasn't an option it was the only option. If anyone was wondering .180 is a bit less than 3/16". Pretty good for 120+ years and considering how dynamic wood is
Great Job, my OCD was going nuts due to the rough sides until you cleaned it up at the end. I nearly passed out with relief lol. Natural timber look with sealer will be beautiful.
You do not have OCD! It is a terrible, debilitating disease that no one would brag about having!!
Burn.... ouch.... ?? Not sure how to respond to that. Anyway.... the wheel looks great.
A "wheely" good job! It was surprising to see how little run out it did have to begin with, for something 100+ years old! Thank you for sharing, Keith!
Keith you looked like a kid on Christmas when you started the wheel on the machine. Great job
Pretty fancy canary yellow handle ya got there, Keith.😊
😂 damn, you're an ingenious bugger! LMAO well done Kieth. Wonderfully entertaining, inspirational and practical as always. Still, by far, my favorite RUclips channel.
nice Job on truing up the wood I vote for Boiled linseed oil on bare wood sides.
The versatility of machines is astounding. It just takes a bit of thought to come come up with a solution.
Great job. Just great.
The set up on the boring mill was real nice !!
Nice work.
This is very awesome to see that massive wheel in the Bore Mill.
I think Keith the Machinist is now a Wheelwright.
Very nice job.
Seeing all the work that you have done is great, and tying it all together.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care, Ed.
The first job on the boring mill is to use it as a lathe.
Great video , Keith! Sure nice to see 2 long time projects moving forward! Impressive out come on the wheel! Thanks for your time and sharing! 👍😎✌️
After placing the rubber on, I would clean the wood rim edge again then spray clear lacquer once dried polish with Johnson Furniture wax. That would make a beautiful contrast in color to the black tires and spokes.
Yes, yes! More bandsaw videos, keep them coming!
Once painted it needs Diresta hand lettered on the hub. Beautiful work btw.
really one of the most exciting turning videos i have seen in a while
Looks great!
Great to see the Lucas being utilized even though unconventionally!
Good morning Keith. Very nice! I think the wood should show also. The pinstriping is also a plus. Thanks.
thank you for sharing this video Keith sharing your time the wheel looks wonderful and you are looking well yourself.
Looks pretty nice, i like the natural wood look👍
Nice job.
That was a fun looking way to break in the HBM.
Hi Keith, Nice job! I’d like to see a dust mask on you. Let’s keep the videos coming for a good long time! Take care of yourself!
Keith, you're a genius!
As others have indicated, that Dave Engles may be of assistance if only with advice, certain types of projects by and for well establishedYou tubers such as yourself, for another such as Jimmy Diresta, creating projects of mutual interest is an exciting prospect for your viewers and will promote income interest for all. Such a unique project can crossover many fields. And the input to support each other does not occur often. This is one of those times. Both You and Dave can show how two totally different fields can creatively work in support of a third field as viewers will be very interested in the usage that Jimmy will put this tool to use.
Keith, I just wanted to say you look great! I think it's time to buy some smaller t-shirts. And that's a good problem to have. 😁 I started keto myself but I'm not reaching my goals quite yet.
As always, a great presentation!! I agree, nice to see the boring mill in operation.
It is amazing how good they where able to machine things back in the day with the old school tools and machines
Love how the two projects paths intersected for an excellent result. Great job Keith!!
Once the metal is painted and the wood finished its going to be beautiful. I do think that epoxy might limit the next rebuild, maybe use contact cement like the last build used? That lasted how many decades. DO use a good wood filler for the divots and gaps, that will telegraph thru the rubber if you don't.
I think he meant that he would use the epoxy as a wood filler in those divots.... probably not for the rubber itself. I'm with you in the opinion that Contact cement would be best for the rubber itself.
@@normmcrae1140 He has done band saw "tires" in videos/years past. He knows what he is doing!
Really enjoyed the innovation on this project. Thanks Keith!
That's so damn crazy that that's a "bandsaw" wheel! 😂 that's gonna be one hell of a beautiful saw though. Excellent work sir
Big toys for big boys! I've never seen a bandsaw this BIG! I thought the one used on the Tally Ho rebuild project was big, but this is NUTS! Looking forward to seeing it in action! GO TEAM KEITH!
Seeing that big old wheel up there was super cool! Congratulations on getting the HBM up and running.
Such a smart way to get the job done. Awesome work. Looks great for something that is well over 120, years old!
awesome 👍👍👍👍
Boiled Linseed oil for the wooden wheels would be completely appropriate and make for a beautiful finish.
linseed oil on the wooden rim?
Excellent video Keith, fascinating to watch. Thank you so much for making and posting this.
You’re right even though it’s not being used but it was mainly intended for it’s exciting that it seems to be working just fine.. you couldn’t ask for more when wanting to true that wheel up..👍
Fascinating! "15 RPM" is just not a 'feed and speed' component you hear every day... Send some of those chips to Adam. You know what a kick he would get out of them... As old as that wood rim is, I'm sure it's very 'stable,' but do you think it's important to seal it right away to avoid moisture changes?
Keith, you might consider putting a walnut staining varnish on the wood that would set things off real nice.
Interesting to see that the high points of the wheel were in between the spokes. Bowed outwards.
Thank you for sharing. Very nice.👍
Did the trick!
Great to see the HBM being used congratulations!!!!
Ahh! So THAT'S why you needed the boring mill.
Just noticed your Philmont belt. Got mine in 1996 623k-2 expedition
Back in th3 70's ran a G&L like this . Did many different jobs on it but nothing like this. Very nice. You need a helper. Not volunteering.
@20:08 I was just thinking about putting some stain and varnish on that wood! Wouldn't be "period correct" but it would really wake up the appearance of that saw!
I would fill and stabilize the raw wood by immersing the rim in a 50% mixture of (preferably) warmed turpentine and boiled linseed oil for an extended period of time. One way of doing this would be leaving the wheel in the boring mill as is, followed by placing a long narrow pan filled with the mixture of oil and turpentine, followed by rotating the wheel to a new section to be treated every 24 hours or so, requiring a week or more to complete. But hey what's the rush? Followed a week or so later by applying 2 or more coats of Water-based, Clear, Minwax, Semi-gloss, Polycrylic finish to complete the job, applying steel wool rubdowns between each coat.
That's probably some old wood that's seeing the light of day for the first time in a long time.
Maybe just some linseed oil?
Anyway, I'm sure Jimmy will be thrilled with this when it's all done.
Shipyards use the same method of heating the hub to install wheels(props) for boats. The towboat I run has around 113" wheels. Getting them on the shaft is quite a chore.
I would like to recommend 3M 1357 neoprene high performance contact adhesive to glue the rubber onto the wood
When are you going to finish the "capstan rebuild" for Leo on Tally Ho? I am excited to see you rebuild that unit, especially the cover or wheel that broke. I feel Leo slacks on the amount of video footage when he subs out parts of the work on the boat, or lets someone do the work off site. An example is, the masts [which required specialized tools & skill] and the fancy woodwork for the fore or aft companionway, which one was done at an employee's home shop. So I am super glad you are doing the work, and I hope you make several video episodes, especially showing the casting repair or re-make. Thanks
Hi Keith . Maybe bees wax can be touched at any time and is cheap and easy
TRULY A G O D GIVEN. SKILL
Was wondering if you have to do any other work after truing those wheels? Are the blade guides adjustable to allow for the slight change in diameter of the wheels? Or can that be corrected by using a thicker tire and leaving it a bit thicker? Do you also need to balance those or isn't that a big issue?
He might have been able to fit it on Brian's big Monarch !!
13:58 Keith I'm wondering why remove so much more wood.?.? Wasn't one of the points of the rubber to smooth out the rotating tensions during the use.?.? As well as tracking, and blade traction.? At least that's what my Uncle Mark told me in his machine shop 60 years ago
Nice Job!
I would stain the sidewalls and seal them
Did you have a plan for the Gantry Crane dimensions to be able to fit most any task you could envision? When I saw it in this video, one leg behind the Boring Mill and the other far enough away to give you plenty of room to 'twirl' that big wheel with room to spare, it hit me that I have yet to see an application that your gantry couldn't handle. When you built it, I thought you were overbuilding for size, but it seems to be capable of handling everything you have needed so far. Was that luck or planning?
Wood expands and contracts with humidity. The better the sealant, the more dimensionally stable the wheel. You might want to consider sealing it with marine epoxy.
You might want to consider applying boiled linseed oil to the wheel edge. It will darken to a rich “industrial” finish as it ages. It can become a beautiful accent finish to the old saw.
Glad it is all working
Did you put a crown on the wheel yet ?.......Thanks Keith 👍
Shoe🇺🇸