Hey guys, apologies for the TERRIBLE sound in the first 15 seconds. I had a copyright issue with the intro / outro song. Had to erase it (which sucks). Getting a custom soundtrack created by my brother in Argentina this week! He’s a musical genius so future vids should be better than ever. Thanks for understanding 🙏
Hi Paul Kimber here from the UK again, loved the way you had to make the tools to do the job. When I first started as an apprentice in the dockyard in the 1950s we never had carbide tipped tools with the throw away / changeable inserts. It was all HSS and Stellite and grind your own !! . When the first carbide blocks came along that you brazed on to a mild steel shank and then ground the tool, it was a revolution. Cut machining times and tool wear right down it was a mighty leap forward. Inserts and the use of CNCs have taken machining to a new level and love your channel and the way you are pushing the boundaries all the time. Loved the way the beast was singing to you as it was taking the deep cuts, no chatter and good quality "mans" size chips and swarf. Best wishes from the UK and look forward to the next video
Hey Paul! Thanks for commenting good sir. It’s amazing how far machining has come. The work you guys did in the 50s was incredible - especially considering the tooling available. Grandad used to machine everything here with ground HSS. Some of his original tools still exist… and I often just stare at them wondering what the heck he used them for!? Thanks for being part of the channel. Love having men with such a vast depth of experience like yourself in the comments.
Cheers Nick! Yeah man, it was begging for more but I just wanted to get this job DONE. Next opportunity I’m going to test it to see just how big a DOC we can go.
In the 70's I was a machinist for COOPER BESSEMER in Stratford Ontario Canada. I ran 4 head mills and many Berthiez Vertical boring mills. We made ships engines, Neuclear emergency pump engines and pipeline compressors in the 40 and 50 ton range. I loved every minuite of every day till they closed the doors. I am a big fan of shop made tooling. Every piece is money in the bank. Suits our needs and as long as you are not paid $ There is a huge savings that the stores can't match, EVER. Beast works for me ! Bear Tools make the best anti vibration/chatter belts ever made. They are for automotive brake drumbs and rotors but wrap one around the Beast or piece being worked on you will be grinning from ear to ear. I have always loved BIG. Retired now and sure love visiting posts like this. BIG IS BEST EH.
I love comments like this! Sounds like you had some pretty cool experience my friend. I'm going ot check out that Bear Tools anti vibe belts ASAP. Thank you!
@@halheavyduty Hey, Bear Automotive is the right site but the channel is only showing the wider 3 in belt. I have both the 3 in and the narower inch and 1/8 th one for doung brake rotors so I guess you need to contact them for availability and prices. They are natural rubber and mine are over 40 years old now and aside from dirty are still like the day they were made. Take care and good luck my friend.
Interesting that you use coolant on virtually everything just as we used to do on HSS tooling, of course heating up the workpiece changes its shape but numerous videos show no coolant being used just like with a treadle lathe.
One thing I would like to discuss is cutting emulsion management. I have had some pretty shocking revelations in our shop where it turns out that emulsion is recycled indefinitely (even between machines) despite it being completely spoiled and stinking like hell. I have pulled the emulsion tank and conveyor from the big Okuma and it was shocking to say the least. It must have not been moved in at least five years, ten more likely. You would not believe it. I have literally chiseled away chunks of fossilized chips stuck in the frame of the machine. Also the tank has massive layers of black sludge which I have learned is most likely molds. The amount of solid matter in the tank (chips, sludge) meant the capacity was probably half or less of nominal. Anyway, a couple of things occurred to me diving into the subject. One: water evaporates from the emulsion at a surprisingly high rate when doing heavy machining. Two: emulsion must rise in temperature quite significantly during operation as there is only a finite amount. During a production run an equilibrium will obviously be reached. Ambient temperature is a factor as our shop is not air conditioned. Three: emulsion spoils easily and 'hobby' skimmers are a major hassle. I would like to learn about your experience with emulsion management. There is a device by a company named Hebemann called the Oil Grazer M3 which I suggest you check out. Also I have been wondering if there is a thing a emulsion refrigeration. It would make sense to actively cool the emulsion to keep it at a constant temperature during operation as well as standing idle. Not only for keeping the fluid in order but also for precision. Also I wonder if it would be a practice to drain and store the fluid during for example summer holidays as the problem seems to have exacerbated all through the shop after the two to three week recent holidays.I am thinking about refrigerated or at least some form of managed storage, also for example having a circulation system to aerate the fluid. Furthermore, I have been looking into thorough methods of cleaning the tanks, looking for ways to eradicate every last microorganism. We have a company nearby that does pyrolytic cleaning, meaning an oven doing a cycle in the 450 deg. C range which will do the job and affordable as well. Have not tried it yet but it should work great. It turns out the tank design of the big Okuma very poor, there's ribs inside all over the place making it a collection of stagnant pools. It turns out this is not a Japanese but a Dutch product, no surprises there, LOL. Anyway, the optimal route would be a new tank made from stainless designed and built to hygienic standards. Long story on a subject that seems to be not talked about a lot and is definitely not the most sexy but very critical IMO, would love to hear your thoughts.
It's a great topic, and I think it's one I'm going to cover (especially considering the most common question I seem to get is "WTF is the pink sauce") We switched to the pink lemonade to avoid emulsion problems / coolant going off and all the associated bacterial problems. It's made a big difference in the shop. No funky smells, and no gunked up lathes. It's good stuff. At least for the kind of work we typically do!
The bacteria in the coolant are anaerobic, meaning they do well in an oxygen-poor environment. That's why it's important to have flow throughout the tank, to introduce air into the coolant. Also, skimming the top oil layer is important, it closes the coolant off from the outside air. Maybe something as simple as an aquarium pump might help introduce more oxygen? I myself have been looking into putting one of those UVC lamps in the tank, it should kill off any and all microbes. Chilling coolant is definitely a thing on larger machines. You can get ready made systems for this. On my own lathe, on a warm day, my coolant gets up to 40 degrees Celsius, which is too warm for my liking, not to mention it makes it difficult to hold tolerance. I must admit I'm also curious about the pink coolant. Anyone know what that is?
I've been waiting for this video; I was not disappointed! Really amazing stuff. You make it look easy (I'm certain it is not). You and Kurtis could conquer the world (of machining , that is). Love it!
Cheers mate! Glad it lived up to expectations. The beast is going to get its own dedicated video soon with some of the footage that didn’t make it into this one. Man… I just love that metal monster
Matt.....I find it very interesting how you do your videos, the commentary is spot on, the views are great, editing great.......so different from most if not all other machine videos, and I have watched hundreds and hundreds...... You have a very unique style to say the least.......I highly recommend you to all my friends.... best wishes from the other 'Sunshine State', Cape Canaveral , Florida ...Paul
Hey Paul, Thanks for the feedback mate. Really good to know. Trying hard to make high quality interesting videos that are fun to watch. Really appreciate your support too man. It’s super encouraging to know that people enjoy watching the videos as much as I enjoy making them. It’s been a wonderful creative outlet
Hi Matt, I love your attitude, someone has to make the decision so you did it, well done. It all worked very well and apart from the small mishap with the reduced shank pilot drill it did the job. I have never been a fan of reduced shank drills, especially when you get to larger sizes as the torque puts a lot of load on the small shank. As far as recommedations go, being an ex SecoTools man can I suggest making contact with the local sales guy (direct with Seco Tools Australia) and get the rep to visit as they have a great specials tool department so I am sure they can offer a solution. Cheers and well done. Keep up the excellent videos of down to earth, this is how its done!. Ian
I wish I could take full credit, but the idea came from some very bright people in the comments. So grateful for the awesome talent that so regularly shares ideas on the vids!
G’day from Sweden!😎 I’m a Swedish gunsmith and stumbled in on your channel the other day, great content even if it’s a long way from what I’m doing😂 I have good friends in Oz and me and the mrs was actually stuck in Charleville for five days during the big floods this year in april! 😆 We where traveling with good friends from Canberra to their farm outside Blackall, since all the roads was flooded for a good five days we go to se the most of Charleville🤣
Oh wow! Sounds like you got the full outback experience. Nice work 🤣👊 I’d love to visit Sweden in the near future. I want to take my wife & our little boy Teddy for a big euro trip once he’s a bit older. You guys gave so much packed into a small area (compared to big empty Australia at least!) Thanks for tuning in and commenting. Love meeting new people from all across the world!
A much deserved shout out if ever there was one. Karen’s video skills are top notch. She’s one of the most genuinely delightful people I’ve ever met too. A real gem.
@@nicodesmidt4034 well I don't agree with you. Matt's videography is bloody slick, considering he has only been doing it for six months or so. Karen is the Mistress I'll be the first to agree, but she's had a lot more practice!
I'm very pleased you took my suggestion for the external coolant line for your boring bars! For your kraken drill, i reckon save yourselves a heap of money and just get a short carbide insert drill and modify the drill big to suit and do some fancy hole drilling to make the coolant come out the tip. I prefer the ISCAR drills because of the range of insert designs, the self centring one works really well.
Great suggestion brother. Again, big thanks. We’ve done it to two of the “Kong” family of bars. So so much better with through coolant. Yeah, we are looking into options for the Kraken now. Need to improve that bad boy
Re: the external coolant, drilling a hole in the centre of of solid bar can actually increase its rigidity, but it has to be at the correct ratio to external diameter. I'm a mechanic by trade, an I read an article on hollow vs solid sway bars, a hollow sway bar for a less metal is actually stiffer.
@@sabamacx The stiffness of a bar depends on its moment of inertia, which is influenced by both its shape and material properties. A hollow bar can actually be stiffer than a solid bar if its wall thickness is optimized. This is because the material in a hollow section is distributed farther from the center of the bar, which increases the moment of inertia.
@@lachlantr5589 That doesn't seem right, I'm comfortable with Cauchy and elasticity tensors, can you give me or point to a worked example/calculation demonstrating a hollow bar being stiffer than equivalent hollow bar?
I doubt this is the whole truth. If you make two swaybars of the same weight, one hollow and one solid, the hollow one is most definitely going to be stiffer. If the OD is the same, though, the hollow one is likely going to be just ever so slightly softer, but significantly lighter. The same should hold true for boringbars. The bending and torsion stiffness of a pipe section is proportional to OD^4 - ID^4. So long as the ID is significantly smaller than the OD, its negative contribution is completely negligable. Example; OD=10, ID=5. 10^4=10 000, 5^4=625. If ditching the outboard pipe would have allowed even just a few mm larger OD, I would be willing to bet, a through hole, even of larger diameter than was used, would end up being more rigid.
I had to bore some large parts years ago and needed a bar that was long enough, nothing as good as that, I welded a 25mm boring bar to a piece of 75 by 75 😂 good work you guys !
Cheers brother! Yeah I get heaps of great ideas for the shop from Kurtis’ vids. He’s a bloody good machinist, and from the few chats we’ve had on the phone seems like a top bloke. Doing great things for the profession. My swarf bins still suck though 🤣
Nice vid, well done. Sorry your drill went off. If youre looking for storebought drills, you could try SECO SD602 series. I use the SD602 80mmx250mm. Works well. The 602 has a max Ø160mmx500mm.
I hope the welders did some pre heating before welding, you might want to look at flux core or at least spray transfer, the welds look a little cold. Unless this part has been pre heated before the welding began I think you are leaving yourselvs open to stress cracking, assuming the part was preheated, on a part of this mass continuious welding shifts would be a the way to go. Just some thoughts from an old fabricator. Great video.
Cheers for the suggestions Andrew. Clearly you know your stuff good sir. Yes, the part was preheated. One of our fabricators is a specialist in ultra heavy duty welding. His background was on repairing bulldozers etc... so everything gets pre-heated and control cooled. He's a big fan of flux core too. Thanks for commenting. Really appreciate it brother.
Hello Matt, wishing you a wonderful weekend down in Queensland, The Sunshine State, love your content, Paul in the other Sunshine State, Florida, USA>.....Cheers....
'back in the day', we would have gun-drilled a thru pilot hole, leaving a very nice hole, on size and in position. You can then use your Kraken (with Brass pilot), perhaps with less issue. It's an extra step, but gundrilling is very low risk/stress (provided you've got your coolant/air setup correctly) and also very quick. As they get longer, the self-piloting tools just seem to get more sketchy...
We’ve got a gun drill, but I haven’t actually run it yet. It came with the little lathe when we bought it, but it’s only 22mm. I hope I get a chance soon. It looks like a great tool!
Great video! So what do you do to get good shots of the action despite the flood cooling while not drowning the camera? Could you show your camera ser-up one of these days?
It takes a big of dodging! 🤣 The I basically just position the camera out of the flow of the pink Panther juice. Everything is filmed on an IPhone 15 Pro Max, and for putting it in the lathe I just fashioned up a holder from an old dial indicator (with a mag base) and added a Quad Lock holder to it. I decided to keep the setup pretty simple after chatting to Karen from CEE. All their vids are filmed on phone cam as well… which I thought was awesome considering how higher quality their vids are!
That's mad, seeing that huge billet on the chuck made me a bit anxious, I wonder how much load was on the chuck jaws with it sticking out so far....and then it started spinning!😂 Great work!
It used to make me bloody nervous! But after doing 30 tool joints I’m accustomed to it. The big one tonne crossover sub about to go in has me back in nervous mode though. Fark it massive.
Hey HAL Heavy Duty Machining! To prevent getting stuck you should add the sweat of a really hung over machinist to the coolant and if possible his tears. This will please the chip gods and reduce your problems significantly! Ride ride ride!
I thought the Kraken's "nose" was a bit suspicious from the first moment I saw it... At least now you'll have a good reason to get proper big drills 😅 I've personally only used the ~50mm hts drills a couple of times, but the bigger ones in my shop seem to work just as well.
Been looking forward to this one, the beast cut like butter. Easily took those 5mm passes, I reckon you'll hit 100% spindle load before the tool starts complaining. Thru coolant at the tip is so nice especially on those deep bores.
It just ate it up! I think you’re right. I’m hoping another job comes up soon where I can test it’s full potential. Through coolant makes a huge difference. Very happy with how it all turned out!
Hi there for the coolant you may have been better cutting a chanel the full length with a small but wider top section at the top and weld a strip over it to give you a straight route for the coolant. Without all the bends. You had it in the mill .
Youre probably right. We initially firing want to have to solder it in fully, but it leaked. Was trying to avoid adding unnecessary heat… but it kinda failed 🤣
Have you considered building a anullar cutter ?There used to be a pommy channel that used BIG ones to bore out billets like that and when they got to the other end the hole was close to size so there was not much boring to do,just enough to reach spec and the cores were either used for other jobs or sold on eBay.
We have a large one we use for most big billets this size, but this job was an odd size. Too small one end, and too long for it to reach. Big fan of annular cutters / trepanning tools. Massive time and material saver. We’ve got a video running ours on the channel. One of the earlier ones.
Haha. They'd think I'd named it after myself! We're about to build a 130mm HTS drill / 120mm Boring bar combo for THE HULK (green machine) this week to drill out a 1.2m sub. Shit's gonna be wild.
For the drill you could also use a Fanuc G74 cycle. A G74 cycle is normaly used as a face groof cycle. Good reason using this cycle is the drill Will peck and Wont retrack all the way out of the hole. I could send you a example of you like.
If you could that will be great. I’ll definitely give it a go. I was wondering how I could do that. Much appreciated mate. Halengineeringaustralia@gmail.com 👊
Throw it back in sea where it belongs 😂 super squeaky bum time that mate. Hss plus carbide seems like madness to me 🤔 Shop made Frankenstein tools. Gotta love em. … or not
They’re for big underground mining ventilation and reduce shafts. It’s being powered by a custom big rig we built. It’s a 60 tonne monster and a one of a kind build. Will feature in an upcoming video once it’s in the field drilling 👊
Greetings from Canada! Just a quick question. After welding the flange on the cylinder, shouldn’t the weld bead be trimmed back to facilitate the fasteners?
Not necessary in this case. The pilot bit gets bolted onto a surface that is free of weld and then bolts don’t have any interference. Excellent question by the way.
Hi Matt, i have several HTS boring heads that are too big for me, from 40 up to 100 mm, with shafts spare Pilot drils and insert holders! Let me now if you are interested!
I’m a CNC machinist in the drilling industry same as you but in WA. I’m curious as to why you use such large depths of cuts as it significantly reduces tool life. We never produce more than 50 of 1 part at a time, so tool life is more important to me than metal removal rates. If I’m running a super expensive part on a super expensive machine with super expensive tools and an insert breaks. There’s no way the time saved by running high depths of cuts would be able to compensate for the cost of the damage.
That’s a really good question. I tend to run the machines / inserts at what I consider a “comfortable maximum” So on the big tool joints we’re building, Im running: WNMG @ 3.5 DOC CNMG @ 3.5 DOC Well under the insert max rating. Spindle load sits at around 40% Z axis about 30-40 % With the big 16mm CNMG tips, in my experience they can handle very heavy cuts. 4-5mm without a drama. I think I’ve just done about 2 weeks on a single insert. Remarkably durable, and even when the break, they still cut. Worst case scenario is we lose a KM80 head on the big bar - which is about $500. And I’m ok with that if it happens. We have a very tight deadline on this project and there’s a huge amount depending on these components being made on time. Hence why I run things hard, but not crazy (in my opinion). With little subs I stick to 2.5 DOC because we have no real time deadline. Really appreciate the insightful question. I find it’s sometimes hard to find the balance with regard to how hard to push things.
Greetings from Germany. Good idea. How much did you save compared to a standard solution from Kennametal? We don't always like that. I think it's a great solution
That drill was free. It came with the lathe. We’ll keep using it for depths of 300mm in the small lathe from now on. All in all, it’s a pretty good drill considering it’s shop made!
i saw that you finally put the beast to use. and it has its its cooling line soldered/braced on the side/down in a slot and that kong also have gotten a mounted a curved tube thats also pointed to the insert. dont know why but i kinda feel like im responseble/sparked the idea for that for some reason xD it all looks and sounds good m8 also when i do my final pass with a boring bar i always turn the insert to a new/barely used edge/corner and after that pass turn it back to the more used edge/corner btw is that new drill only gonna do through hole boring or do it also need to do blind hole ? if its only through hole then trepanning without any hesitation. but of its also have to do blind hole then a insert drill /spade drill ( just like the kraken is ) maybe even with a shop made insert center tool
You (and a handful of others) definitely were the creative inspiration for Kong’s final form. An excellent suggestion that I’m really grateful for! He runs SO much better with through coolant.
@@halheavyduty i do have a idea to how you can make/rough out the holes pretty effective and stable though it will take some work to make/get it up and running the first time ( its basicly to put a spindle on the cross slide with a facemill on a long extention. run the spindle on the lathe at like 3-5 rpms with a feed of about 2mm pr rotation. so your doing a ramp/helical movement/interpulation of the whole to about 2-3mm smaller then fonal dia. and then take the beast to final size ( masicly so long that the hole is at least 1.5X the facemill then no problem
I haven’t used CNMM much. We tend to stick to the CNMG for heavy roughing. The machine has enough power for 8-10mm cuts without putting too much strain on it.
After the waiting it was almost an anticlimax to see ''the beast'' run so smoothly but bloody impressive all the same! Once the big drill completed and working is it going to be raise bore drilling or surface down?
Well now that's a boring Bar for sure you did say las video it would not disappoint and you delivered . Only thing i thought you just might out do Kurtis But Mate you Failed me . Kurtis has you in the land of boring bars his is a whopping 1100 long 125mm diameter with depth of cut 900mm but is only tool post mounted . he also runs his 25mm tooling on the end . yours 1000 long and only 95mm diameter . other thing is you are running through coolant where Kurtis does not but you guys are both in the running for the Biggest Tool Award for sure . speaking of drill bits Kurtis just bought a rather large one not sure of the brand but it uses a spade type insert in the end i think . was in one of his recent videos i have a look see if i can fined it . when you showed the pilot drill thingy that this flange you just made . mat that thing is massive need to get a look see of the 3 meter one if this thing does what its is supposed to do it will be a game changer for sure . Cheers from up north
Cheers mate! I was limited by hole size 🤣 Although after seeing how The Beast performed, I’d challenge any half meter bar to a race for metal removal. Bloody thing just EATS IT UP. While I’m def not competing with bar size… I think we might have the big bar best pretty soon. Gotta build a 1m+ 120-130mm bar to machine the next project. 1.2m one tonne crossover sub… and even the beast can’t reach that far. It never ends bro 🤣
@TopperMachineLLC has used some replaceable carbide spade drills for roughing out large diameter holes in some of his videos. Maybe a solution to replace “The Kraken”.
Just need to be carefully when you are peck drilling and using external coolant. This will allow chips to be washed back into the hole and get wedged between the drill and workplace. This will chip your drill insert and cause premature tool failure.
I find it just mesmerising to watch it start each pass. I genuinely never get sick of it. Something deeply satisfying about chips exploding off as the beast munches away
Haha. No. But if they want them they're welcome to come clean the machine out and get them. Bloody swarf. I dream of an fully automated removal system. Man's gotta have goals. Just one big conveyor belt and out it goes...
@@halheavyduty We too but , the Range between the speeds is not that great and the Headstock is really Noisy -> straight gears 1. 26-225 rpm 2. 225-670 Rpm 3. 671-200 400mm Schunk Chuck.
Nice. Yeah, we have a lower gear that goes only to 186 rpm, so it’s actually pretty useful. Rarely use the high gear though. Like three times in the last year
Yeah… it was a bit of a shitshow. The chatter caused issues. Mostly because the HSS nose drill took up over half the Z axis power so I couldn’t drive it hard enough. Def a learning experience 🤣
We used to run spade bits, but found they eat up too much Z axis load on the CNC. We still run them occasionally in the hulk, but need carbide for the CNC. Next machine I buy is going to have serious Z axis power.
Hey guys, apologies for the TERRIBLE sound in the first 15 seconds.
I had a copyright issue with the intro / outro song. Had to erase it (which sucks).
Getting a custom soundtrack created by my brother in Argentina this week! He’s a musical genius so future vids should be better than ever.
Thanks for understanding 🙏
The Tube did the same thing to me. They continue to bite the hands that feed them. I hope your new tunes work well for you.
Hi Paul Kimber here from the UK again, loved the way you had to make the tools to do the job. When I first started as an apprentice in the dockyard in the 1950s we never had carbide tipped tools with the throw away / changeable inserts. It was all HSS and Stellite and grind your own !! . When the first carbide blocks came along that you brazed on to a mild steel shank and then ground the tool, it was a revolution. Cut machining times and tool wear right down it was a mighty leap forward. Inserts and the use of CNCs have taken machining to a new level and love your channel and the way you are pushing the boundaries all the time. Loved the way the beast was singing to you as it was taking the deep cuts, no chatter and good quality "mans" size chips and swarf. Best wishes from the UK and look forward to the next video
Hey Paul! Thanks for commenting good sir. It’s amazing how far machining has come.
The work you guys did in the 50s was incredible - especially considering the tooling available.
Grandad used to machine everything here with ground HSS. Some of his original tools still exist… and I often just stare at them wondering what the heck he used them for!?
Thanks for being part of the channel. Love having men with such a vast depth of experience like yourself in the comments.
The Beast…….”5mm cuts in 4140………..next !!”
Really living up to its name. Great to watch 👌
Cheers Nick! Yeah man, it was begging for more but I just wanted to get this job DONE.
Next opportunity I’m going to test it to see just how big a DOC we can go.
@@halheavyduty yeehaw, strap in kids this is gonna get wild !! 🙃✌️
Wowzers, love the way you came up with the idea for the coolant line along the outside. Awesome
J'ai pris beaucoup de plaisir à voir cette vidéo, " Un bon ouvrier doit savoir faire ses outils" et cela est valable dans le monde entier.
Thank you very much. I like the quote. Agreed 100%
I just discovered you guys I love youse already being a CNC machinist. I can really appreciate what you guys do.
Cheers mate!
Send it! My favorite universal maching term.
All the way 💯👊
In the 70's I was a machinist for COOPER BESSEMER in Stratford Ontario Canada. I ran 4 head mills and many Berthiez Vertical boring mills. We made ships engines, Neuclear emergency pump engines and pipeline compressors in the 40 and 50 ton range. I loved every minuite of every day till they closed the doors.
I am a big fan of shop made tooling. Every piece is money in the bank. Suits our needs and as long as you are not paid $ There is a huge savings that the stores can't match, EVER.
Beast works for me ! Bear Tools make the best anti vibration/chatter belts ever made. They are for automotive brake drumbs and rotors but wrap one around the Beast or piece being worked on you will be grinning from ear to ear.
I have always loved BIG. Retired now and sure love visiting posts like this. BIG IS BEST EH.
I love comments like this! Sounds like you had some pretty cool experience my friend. I'm going ot check out that Bear Tools anti vibe belts ASAP. Thank you!
@@halheavyduty They should be along with brake drum and rotor turning stuff.
@@halheavyduty Hey, Bear Automotive is the right site but the channel is only showing the wider 3 in belt. I have both the 3 in and the narower inch and 1/8 th one for doung brake rotors so I guess you need to contact them for availability and prices. They are natural rubber and mine are over 40 years old now and aside from dirty are still like the day they were made. Take care and good luck my friend.
Interesting that you use coolant on virtually everything just as we used to do on HSS tooling, of course heating up the workpiece changes its shape but numerous videos show no coolant being used just like with a treadle lathe.
One thing I would like to discuss is cutting emulsion management. I have had some pretty shocking revelations in our shop where it turns out that emulsion is recycled indefinitely (even between machines) despite it being completely spoiled and stinking like hell. I have pulled the emulsion tank and conveyor from the big Okuma and it was shocking to say the least. It must have not been moved in at least five years, ten more likely. You would not believe it. I have literally chiseled away chunks of fossilized chips stuck in the frame of the machine. Also the tank has massive layers of black sludge which I have learned is most likely molds. The amount of solid matter in the tank (chips, sludge) meant the capacity was probably half or less of nominal.
Anyway, a couple of things occurred to me diving into the subject. One: water evaporates from the emulsion at a surprisingly high rate when doing heavy machining. Two: emulsion must rise in temperature quite significantly during operation as there is only a finite amount. During a production run an equilibrium will obviously be reached. Ambient temperature is a factor as our shop is not air conditioned. Three: emulsion spoils easily and 'hobby' skimmers are a major hassle.
I would like to learn about your experience with emulsion management.
There is a device by a company named Hebemann called the Oil Grazer M3 which I suggest you check out.
Also I have been wondering if there is a thing a emulsion refrigeration. It would make sense to actively cool the emulsion to keep it at a constant temperature during operation as well as standing idle. Not only for keeping the fluid in order but also for precision. Also I wonder if it would be a practice to drain and store the fluid during for example summer holidays as the problem seems to have exacerbated all through the shop after the two to three week recent holidays.I am thinking about refrigerated or at least some form of managed storage, also for example having a circulation system to aerate the fluid.
Furthermore, I have been looking into thorough methods of cleaning the tanks, looking for ways to eradicate every last microorganism. We have a company nearby that does pyrolytic cleaning, meaning an oven doing a cycle in the 450 deg. C range which will do the job and affordable as well. Have not tried it yet but it should work great.
It turns out the tank design of the big Okuma very poor, there's ribs inside all over the place making it a collection of stagnant pools. It turns out this is not a Japanese but a Dutch product, no surprises there, LOL. Anyway, the optimal route would be a new tank made from stainless designed and built to hygienic standards.
Long story on a subject that seems to be not talked about a lot and is definitely not the most sexy but very critical IMO, would love to hear your thoughts.
It's a great topic, and I think it's one I'm going to cover (especially considering the most common question I seem to get is "WTF is the pink sauce")
We switched to the pink lemonade to avoid emulsion problems / coolant going off and all the associated bacterial problems. It's made a big difference in the shop. No funky smells, and no gunked up lathes.
It's good stuff. At least for the kind of work we typically do!
The bacteria in the coolant are anaerobic, meaning they do well in an oxygen-poor environment. That's why it's important to have flow throughout the tank, to introduce air into the coolant. Also, skimming the top oil layer is important, it closes the coolant off from the outside air. Maybe something as simple as an aquarium pump might help introduce more oxygen?
I myself have been looking into putting one of those UVC lamps in the tank, it should kill off any and all microbes.
Chilling coolant is definitely a thing on larger machines. You can get ready made systems for this. On my own lathe, on a warm day, my coolant gets up to 40 degrees Celsius, which is too warm for my liking, not to mention it makes it difficult to hold tolerance.
I must admit I'm also curious about the pink coolant. Anyone know what that is?
I've been waiting for this video; I was not disappointed! Really amazing stuff. You make it look easy (I'm certain it is not). You and Kurtis could conquer the world (of machining , that is). Love it!
Cheers mate! Glad it lived up to expectations.
The beast is going to get its own dedicated video soon with some of the footage that didn’t make it into this one.
Man… I just love that metal monster
Absolutely awesome. I like it when things happen outside "the box"! Keep machining guys ... well done.
Cheers mate! Yep… there were a few out of the box moments in the video about to drop.
Wild drilling in that one 😜
Congratulations on 10,000 subscribers. Keep up the good work, Cheers Gary.
Almost there! Cheers Gary. Appreciate the support mate 👊👍
Boring video... Love it!
🤣💯👊
Nice play of words! Well said!
keep the vids coming, things getting bigger each week! well done matt
Thanks Pete! We’ve got some crazy stuff in the pipeline.
A 1.2m one tonne crossover sub is just about to go into the hulk!
You guys deserve much more subscribers. Your work is and I will nick an Aussie saying Bloody Awesome!
Bloody legend! Cheers mate 👊
@ you are more than welcome Matt!
💪
nice welding on the flange. never seen chips that big. recyclers must love you guys.
Indeed they do 🤣💯
Darned cool stuff and lots of coolant!! Hopefully the customer sends you a video of the drill putting the sauce to the planet!
Bulk Pink Panther juice for the Kraken & Beast.
I can’t wait to see the big rig running. Thing is going to be a weapon
Felt your stress on the Kracked hybrid drill, nice end result.
Cheers mate. Yeah… she was a white knuckle tight kinda day with that one
Matt.....I find it very interesting how you do your videos, the commentary is spot on,
the views are great, editing great.......so different from most if not all other
machine videos, and I have watched hundreds and hundreds......
You have a very unique style to say the least.......I highly recommend you to all my friends....
best wishes from the other 'Sunshine State', Cape Canaveral , Florida ...Paul
Hey Paul,
Thanks for the feedback mate. Really good to know. Trying hard to make high quality interesting videos that are fun to watch.
Really appreciate your support too man. It’s super encouraging to know that people enjoy watching the videos as much as I enjoy making them.
It’s been a wonderful creative outlet
This is great inspiration thanks mate I've finally decided to try machining as a hobbyist now I'm in the market for a used Bridgeport mill.
Awesome work brother! You’re gonna love it. It’s bloody addictive and inherently satisfying.
Well done 👊
Now that is a boring bar! Weld over "the Beast". New name. GIGANTOR!
Love it 🤣💯👊
Hail The Great Beast, devourer of metal!
🤘
Really incredible stuff man.
Thanks mate 👊👍
Hi Matt, I love your attitude, someone has to make the decision so you did it, well done. It all worked very well and apart from the small mishap with the reduced shank pilot drill it did the job. I have never been a fan of reduced shank drills, especially when you get to larger sizes as the torque puts a lot of load on the small shank. As far as recommedations go, being an ex SecoTools man can I suggest making contact with the local sales guy (direct with Seco Tools Australia) and get the rep to visit as they have a great specials tool department so I am sure they can offer a solution. Cheers and well done. Keep up the excellent videos of down to earth, this is how its done!. Ian
Thanks so much Ian! Much appreciated. Love it when you comment mate. Full of great advice 👊
Thats an ingenius idea to get around deep hole drilling for coolant- i'm impressed!
I wish I could take full credit, but the idea came from some very bright people in the comments.
So grateful for the awesome talent that so regularly shares ideas on the vids!
@@halheavyduty collective engineering!
100% mate. 100%
Thanks for showing us great procedures. Learned quite a bit.
Most welcome. Glad you enjoyed it brother!
Congrats on 10k, just found your channel after watching one of Kurtis' videos. Awesome stuff man. Subbed
Thanks mate! Much appreciated 👊
Hi there I love this video it’s unreal ,man I’m having a ball here watching your toys work very impressive. Good old Aussie can do cheers ❤️🙏💪💪💪😃🗝️🦘🇦🇺
Thanks so much! Appreciate the kind feedback 👊
G’day from Sweden!😎 I’m a Swedish gunsmith and stumbled in on your channel the other day, great content even if it’s a long way from what I’m doing😂 I have good friends in Oz and me and the mrs was actually stuck in Charleville for five days during the big floods this year in april! 😆 We where traveling with good friends from Canberra to their farm outside Blackall, since all the roads was flooded for a good five days we go to se the most of Charleville🤣
Oh wow! Sounds like you got the full outback experience. Nice work 🤣👊
I’d love to visit Sweden in the near future. I want to take my wife & our little boy Teddy for a big euro trip once he’s a bit older.
You guys gave so much packed into a small area (compared to big empty Australia at least!)
Thanks for tuning in and commenting. Love meeting new people from all across the world!
Just loved the shout out to Kurtis from @CEE ❤, although your videos miss the excellent videography from Karen 🤣
Keep going team 👍👍🙌
A much deserved shout out if ever there was one.
Karen’s video skills are top notch. She’s one of the most genuinely delightful people I’ve ever met too.
A real gem.
@@nicodesmidt4034 well I don't agree with you. Matt's videography is bloody slick, considering he has only been doing it for six months or so. Karen is the Mistress I'll be the first to agree, but she's had a lot more practice!
@@halheavyduty plus Karen has the horn*est laugh on YT lol
@@samrodian919 😊 are we actually discussing this ?
Off course, even making a video, good or awful, is a skill that deserves praise
Nice work there Matt. And you really do do cool stuff :)
Thank you for the kind feedback! Much appreciated 👊
I'm very pleased you took my suggestion for the external coolant line for your boring bars!
For your kraken drill, i reckon save yourselves a heap of money and just get a short carbide insert drill and modify the drill big to suit and do some fancy hole drilling to make the coolant come out the tip. I prefer the ISCAR drills because of the range of insert designs, the self centring one works really well.
Great suggestion brother. Again, big thanks. We’ve done it to two of the “Kong” family of bars.
So so much better with through coolant.
Yeah, we are looking into options for the Kraken now. Need to improve that bad boy
Re: the external coolant, drilling a hole in the centre of of solid bar can actually increase its rigidity, but it has to be at the correct ratio to external diameter.
I'm a mechanic by trade, an I read an article on hollow vs solid sway bars, a hollow sway bar for a less metal is actually stiffer.
I didn’t know that! Bloody good to know. I’ll have to do some more research for future bars.
Thanks man. Appreciate the info 👊👍
I'd love to read this article as I'm in materials research it goes against all my intuitions and I love to be proven wrong.
@@sabamacx The stiffness of a bar depends on its moment of inertia, which is influenced by both its shape and material properties.
A hollow bar can actually be stiffer than a solid bar if its wall thickness is optimized. This is because the material in a hollow section is distributed farther from the center of the bar, which increases the moment of inertia.
@@lachlantr5589 That doesn't seem right, I'm comfortable with Cauchy and elasticity tensors, can you give me or point to a worked example/calculation demonstrating a hollow bar being stiffer than equivalent hollow bar?
I doubt this is the whole truth. If you make two swaybars of the same weight, one hollow and one solid, the hollow one is most definitely going to be stiffer. If the OD is the same, though, the hollow one is likely going to be just ever so slightly softer, but significantly lighter.
The same should hold true for boringbars. The bending and torsion stiffness of a pipe section is proportional to OD^4 - ID^4. So long as the ID is significantly smaller than the OD, its negative contribution is completely negligable.
Example; OD=10, ID=5. 10^4=10 000, 5^4=625.
If ditching the outboard pipe would have allowed even just a few mm larger OD, I would be willing to bet, a through hole, even of larger diameter than was used, would end up being more rigid.
You own your own Kaiju Army and they're kicking asses and NOT taking names cuz they just don't give a damn! Good going Matt!
Metal Monsters for the win 💯
Fark I just love running them 🤣
@@halheavyduty I couldn't tell..... 🙂
Hello , very very nice work !!!!
Thank you 🙏
Interesting coolant path. Good to see it worked a treat.
Pink Panther Juice for the win!
I had to bore some large parts years ago and needed a bar that was long enough, nothing as good as that, I welded a 25mm boring bar to a piece of 75 by 75 😂 good work you guys !
Nice work! Nothing better than making your own custom stuff to get the job done hey.
Thanks for the kind feedback too mate. Much appreciated.
I love your channel although the biggest turning that i have done in my shop is 3", yalls stuff is much cooler, Thanks for sharing.
Cheers brother! Appreciate the support
WOW the great job again .
Thank you 👊🙏
Love it . Great work.
Thanks mate!
Awesome video. Definitely subscribing,especially after hearing the comment about Kurtis. Going to watch the rest of your videos now.
Cheers brother!
Yeah I get heaps of great ideas for the shop from Kurtis’ vids. He’s a bloody good machinist, and from the few chats we’ve had on the phone seems like a top bloke.
Doing great things for the profession.
My swarf bins still suck though 🤣
Nice vid, well done. Sorry your drill went off. If youre looking for storebought drills, you could try SECO SD602 series. I use the SD602 80mmx250mm. Works well. The 602 has a max Ø160mmx500mm.
I’ll check that out for sure. Thanks a bunch. I’ve found Seco tools to be excellent.
@@halheavyduty Youre welcome.
Very impressive indeed.
And very nice video work as well. The 10K subs are just around the corner :)
Cheers mate! Appreciate the kind feedback 👊💯
I hope the welders did some pre heating before welding, you might want to look at flux core or at least spray transfer, the welds look a little cold. Unless this part has been pre heated before the welding began I think you are leaving yourselvs open to stress cracking, assuming the part was preheated, on a part of this mass continuious welding shifts would be a the way to go. Just some thoughts from an old fabricator. Great video.
Cheers for the suggestions Andrew. Clearly you know your stuff good sir.
Yes, the part was preheated. One of our fabricators is a specialist in ultra heavy duty welding. His background was on repairing bulldozers etc... so everything gets pre-heated and control cooled. He's a big fan of flux core too.
Thanks for commenting.
Really appreciate it brother.
I don’t know if people really realize how insanely big this is for the work it’s gonna do! Truely staggering!
It’s truly gigantic when you get up close to the drill bit.
It’s gonna be one hell of a setup
Hello Matt, wishing you a wonderful weekend down in Queensland, The Sunshine State, love your content, Paul in the other Sunshine State, Florida, USA>.....Cheers....
Cheers Paul! First in on the comments 👊
Awesome!
Cheers Colin!
Hi Matt absolutely amazing to watch and the size of that three metre drill is hard to get your head around great stuff.
It’s pretty mind blowing to watch it all come together.
Love my coffee and HAL machining HTS is the way to go…..
💯👊
Fun to watch
Cheers mate! Thanks tuning in.
Release the Kraken!!!!
💯🦑
'back in the day', we would have gun-drilled a thru pilot hole, leaving a very nice hole, on size and in position. You can then use your Kraken (with Brass pilot), perhaps with less issue.
It's an extra step, but gundrilling is very low risk/stress (provided you've got your coolant/air setup correctly) and also very quick. As they get longer, the self-piloting tools just seem to get more sketchy...
We’ve got a gun drill, but I haven’t actually run it yet. It came with the little lathe when we bought it, but it’s only 22mm.
I hope I get a chance soon. It looks like a great tool!
Great video! So what do you do to get good shots of the action despite the flood cooling while not drowning the camera? Could you show your camera ser-up one of these days?
It takes a big of dodging! 🤣
The I basically just position the camera out of the flow of the pink Panther juice.
Everything is filmed on an IPhone 15 Pro Max, and for putting it in the lathe I just fashioned up a holder from an old dial indicator (with a mag base) and added a Quad Lock holder to it.
I decided to keep the setup pretty simple after chatting to Karen from CEE. All their vids are filmed on phone cam as well… which I thought was awesome considering how higher quality their vids are!
That's insane
One of the most satisfying jobs I’ve done yet. The Beast is pure animal
That's mad, seeing that huge billet on the chuck made me a bit anxious, I wonder how much load was on the chuck jaws with it sticking out so far....and then it started spinning!😂 Great work!
It used to make me bloody nervous! But after doing 30 tool joints I’m accustomed to it.
The big one tonne crossover sub about to go in has me back in nervous mode though.
Fark it massive.
Hey HAL Heavy Duty Machining! To prevent getting stuck you should add the sweat of a really hung over machinist to the coolant and if possible his tears. This will please the chip gods and reduce your problems significantly! Ride ride ride!
🤣💯👊
Plenty of blood, sweat and the odd tear for sure 👍
I thought the Kraken's "nose" was a bit suspicious from the first moment I saw it... At least now you'll have a good reason to get proper big drills 😅 I've personally only used the ~50mm hts drills a couple of times, but the bigger ones in my shop seem to work just as well.
Definitely suspicious…
It’ll work fine on softer materials up to 250 deep though. Just not 4140 drilled deep from both ends.
First time watch you got my 👍
Cheers mate! 👊
Kennametal HTS drill will be the best option.
We ended up going with a 130mm Kennametal HTS. It’s due to arrive tomorrow. Can’t wait!
@@halheavyduty Great choice although I may be a bit biased as i work for Kennametal😄
I really like the Kennametal drills & Udrills. Def my go to
Been looking forward to this one, the beast cut like butter. Easily took those 5mm passes, I reckon you'll hit 100% spindle load before the tool starts complaining.
Thru coolant at the tip is so nice especially on those deep bores.
It just ate it up! I think you’re right. I’m hoping another job comes up soon where I can test it’s full potential.
Through coolant makes a huge difference. Very happy with how it all turned out!
I think Wadda Beast should have been it's name. Looking forward to seeing a big hole being bored with the finished tool.
💯✌️
Just found your videos. Really interesting work.
You have a long lost brother on Perpetual Motion channel.
Joe
Thanks Joe! Hey i searched for the channel and couldn’t find it.
Could you pop a link in for me? Keen to meet my relative 👊🤣
Nice shout out to CEE.
Well deserved. Those big V blocks are such a useful tool for us.
Great videos, I wonder why you don't core drill these big chunks of steel and use the cores for other jobs would save a lot on costs ??
We usually do, but our core drill was too short for this particular job.
Couldn't find subscribe button. Watched on TV logged on my phone so I coyly subscribe!! Watch a lot CEE
Cheers mate! Thanks for jumping on board 👊👍
You and me both (watch a lot of CEE) 🤣
His content is top notch and he’s an incredibly skilled tradesman.
Hi there for the coolant you may have been better cutting a chanel the full length with a small but wider top section at the top and weld a strip over it to give you a straight route for the coolant. Without all the bends. You had it in the mill .
Youre probably right. We initially firing want to have to solder it in fully, but it leaked.
Was trying to avoid adding unnecessary heat… but it kinda failed 🤣
Have you considered building a anullar cutter ?There used to be a pommy channel that used BIG ones to bore out billets like that and when they got to the other end the hole was close to size so there was not much boring to do,just enough to reach spec and the cores were either used for other jobs or sold on eBay.
We have a large one we use for most big billets this size, but this job was an odd size. Too small one end, and too long for it to reach.
Big fan of annular cutters / trepanning tools. Massive time and material saver.
We’ve got a video running ours on the channel. One of the earlier ones.
you need to look at the Kennametal Fix 8 tooling for a nuther bar
We did check it out, and I’ll likely get it in the near future. Appreciate the recommendation 👊
@@halheavyduty if you do make a nuther bar name it MATT
Haha. They'd think I'd named it after myself! We're about to build a 130mm HTS drill / 120mm Boring bar combo for THE HULK (green machine) this week to drill out a 1.2m sub. Shit's gonna be wild.
@@halheavyduty more the both of us
even with all that cooling things must get bit toasty. do you have to cool in between passes?
I had to on that part. It wasn’t too warm, but I let it cool a bit before the final pass. Just so it measured spot on.
For the drill you could also use a Fanuc G74 cycle. A G74 cycle is normaly used as a face groof cycle. Good reason using this cycle is the drill Will peck and Wont retrack all the way out of the hole. I could send you a example of you like.
If you could that will be great. I’ll definitely give it a go. I was wondering how I could do that.
Much appreciated mate.
Halengineeringaustralia@gmail.com
👊
Ill send you a program. Let me know if it helped.
@halheavyduty I just send you the program I run.
Throw it back in sea where it belongs 😂 super squeaky bum time that mate. Hss plus carbide seems like madness to me 🤔
Shop made Frankenstein tools. Gotta love em. … or not
Agreed!
I’ve got a love hate relationship with the Kraken. It’s bloody awesome as far as shop made tools go… but faaaark what a nightmare 🤣
What's the 3m drill for? Dropping a lift well down for underground mining?
And what on earth is going to power it? A massive pile drill?
They’re for big underground mining ventilation and reduce shafts.
It’s being powered by a custom big rig we built. It’s a 60 tonne monster and a one of a kind build.
Will feature in an upcoming video once it’s in the field drilling 👊
Greetings from Canada!
Just a quick question. After welding the flange on the cylinder, shouldn’t the weld bead be trimmed back to facilitate the fasteners?
Not necessary in this case. The pilot bit gets bolted onto a surface that is free of weld and then bolts don’t have any interference.
Excellent question by the way.
Holy shit that is some DOC!
The big boy just loved it.
I reckon it’ll peak out at 7-8mm which is bloody good considering how far it’s hanging out!
💯👊
@@halheavyduty
🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯
Awesome….love shop made tools. What is the reddish coolant being used on the cnc lathe?
Cheers mate! It’s just a standard drilling fluid called Holemaker by ITM.
Cuts well, doesn’t go off and has excellent rust prevention properties.
Hi Matt, i have several HTS boring heads that are too big for me, from 40 up to 100 mm, with shafts spare Pilot drils and insert holders!
Let me now if you are interested!
Definitely interested mate. Can you send me details to halengineeringaustralia@gmail.com
Cheers mate 👊
@@halheavyduty Will send You some pictures and part numbers tomorow.
Cheers
You need to make a special grub screw for The Beast that takes a 2-3cm hex key. Doesn't have to be practical, it just needs to compliment the monster.
Love it 🤣👊💯
And a hex wrench that is 6 feet long. Don't use it, just take the piss with it on shop tours.
Haha. Dad & I actually had to construct a 6 foot breaker bar on Saturday. I wish it was for show... haha
I’m a CNC machinist in the drilling industry same as you but in WA.
I’m curious as to why you use such large depths of cuts as it significantly reduces tool life. We never produce more than 50 of 1 part at a time, so tool life is more important to me than metal removal rates.
If I’m running a super expensive part on a super expensive machine with super expensive tools and an insert breaks. There’s no way the time saved by running high depths of cuts would be able to compensate for the cost of the damage.
That’s a really good question.
I tend to run the machines / inserts at what I consider a “comfortable maximum”
So on the big tool joints we’re building, Im running:
WNMG @ 3.5 DOC
CNMG @ 3.5 DOC
Well under the insert max rating.
Spindle load sits at around 40%
Z axis about 30-40 %
With the big 16mm CNMG tips, in my experience they can handle very heavy cuts. 4-5mm without a drama. I think I’ve just done about 2 weeks on a single insert. Remarkably durable, and even when the break, they still cut.
Worst case scenario is we lose a KM80 head on the big bar - which is about $500. And I’m ok with that if it happens.
We have a very tight deadline on this project and there’s a huge amount depending on these components being made on time.
Hence why I run things hard, but not crazy (in my opinion).
With little subs I stick to 2.5 DOC because we have no real time deadline.
Really appreciate the insightful question. I find it’s sometimes hard to find the balance with regard to how hard to push things.
@@halheavydutyIf in doubt, go flat out 😂😂
Sometimes you just gotta send it.
You’re welcome!
💯
Greetings from Germany. Good idea. How much did you save compared to a standard solution from Kennametal? We don't always like that. I think it's a great solution
That drill was free.
It came with the lathe.
We’ll keep using it for depths of 300mm in the small lathe from now on.
All in all, it’s a pretty good drill considering it’s shop made!
Awesome Job 👍👍
Cheers brother!
Watched a Japanese shop video they used square stock for thee main bar same type of holder on the cross corners relieved obviously
Interesting! It’s one thing I really love be about machining… the insane creativity of it all
i saw that you finally put the beast to use. and it has its its cooling line soldered/braced on the side/down in a slot and that kong also have gotten a mounted a curved tube thats also pointed to the insert.
dont know why but i kinda feel like im responseble/sparked the idea for that for some reason xD
it all looks and sounds good m8
also when i do my final pass with a boring bar i always turn the insert to a new/barely used edge/corner and after that pass turn it back to the more used edge/corner
btw is that new drill only gonna do through hole boring or do it also need to do blind hole ?
if its only through hole then trepanning without any hesitation. but of its also have to do blind hole then a insert drill /spade drill ( just like the kraken is ) maybe even with a shop made insert center tool
You (and a handful of others) definitely were the creative inspiration for Kong’s final form.
An excellent suggestion that I’m really grateful for! He runs SO much better with through coolant.
@@halheavyduty good to hear m8
@@halheavyduty i do have a idea to how you can make/rough out the holes pretty effective and stable though it will take some work to make/get it up and running the first time ( its basicly to put a spindle on the cross slide with a facemill on a long extention. run the spindle on the lathe at like 3-5 rpms with a feed of about 2mm pr rotation. so your doing a ramp/helical movement/interpulation of the whole to about 2-3mm smaller then fonal dia. and then take the beast to final size ( masicly so long that the hole is at least 1.5X the facemill then no problem
Do you using cnmm inserts for heavy hogging steel like10-15mm deoc per pass
I haven’t used CNMM much. We tend to stick to the CNMG for heavy roughing. The machine has enough power for 8-10mm cuts without putting too much strain on it.
After the waiting it was almost an anticlimax to see ''the beast'' run so smoothly but bloody impressive all the same!
Once the big drill completed and working is it going to be raise bore drilling or surface down?
After the Kraken saga I’m just glad we had a win with that sucker!
A good way to finish the trio off. With chips flying everywhere! ✌️😜
Why not use and insert drill as the center cutter? Best of both worlds.
Mark
I don’t quite understand the suggestion? Sorry Mark. Can’t you explain a bit. Very curious what you mean.
Cheers mate
Check out Korean Dynamics drills used them heaps 200 diameter on a 600 Doosan Lathe. Give Iscar rep a call in Mackay.
Thanks mate! I’ll check it out. Much appreciated 👊
Well now that's a boring Bar for sure you did say las video it would not disappoint and you delivered . Only thing i thought you just might out do Kurtis But Mate you Failed me . Kurtis has you in the land of boring bars his is a whopping 1100 long 125mm diameter with depth of cut 900mm but is only tool post mounted . he also runs his 25mm tooling on the end . yours 1000 long and only 95mm diameter . other thing is you are running through coolant where Kurtis does not but you guys are both in the running for the Biggest Tool Award for sure . speaking of drill bits Kurtis just bought a rather large one not sure of the brand but it uses a spade type insert in the end i think . was in one of his recent videos i have a look see if i can fined it . when you showed the pilot drill thingy that this flange you just made . mat that thing is massive need to get a look see of the 3 meter one if this thing does what its is supposed to do it will be a game changer for sure .
Cheers from up north
Cheers mate!
I was limited by hole size 🤣
Although after seeing how The Beast performed, I’d challenge any half meter bar to a race for metal removal. Bloody thing just EATS IT UP.
While I’m def not competing with bar size… I think we might have the big bar best pretty soon.
Gotta build a 1m+ 120-130mm bar to machine the next project.
1.2m one tonne crossover sub… and even the beast can’t reach that far.
It never ends bro 🤣
@TopperMachineLLC has used some replaceable carbide spade drills for roughing out large diameter holes in some of his videos. Maybe a solution to replace “The Kraken”.
Interesting. I’ll check that out. Thank you!
Give me the details to the manual mill you are using.
Thanks
Scott
The big mill is a Quantum FB-5
crazy
💯👊
"The Beast " sure lived up to its name.
God help us if you ever have to create a boring bar called PREDATOR...
At the rate we are going there a bigger bar getting made already.
It’s bloody nuts.
Son of Kraken when? 👀
🤣
With the kraken do you thing the heat on the drill was the chatter making chang shape.
No, I think it’s just a poor design with a Pinocchio level pilot nose 🤣
Just need to be carefully when you are peck drilling and using external coolant. This will allow chips to be washed back into the hole and get wedged between the drill and workplace. This will chip your drill insert and cause premature tool failure.
Thanks for the tip mate! Much appreciated. The external coolant was just to try and wash the swarf off that bloody nose.
Clearly worked well 🤣 fark
Every time you make those depth of cut plunges my eyebrows rise.
I find it just mesmerising to watch it start each pass. I genuinely never get sick of it. Something deeply satisfying about chips exploding off as the beast munches away
@@halheavyduty big cuts, big chips, and you got some big chips. Have you ever had a customer ask to get the chips back?
Haha. No. But if they want them they're welcome to come clean the machine out and get them. Bloody swarf. I dream of an fully automated removal system.
Man's gotta have goals. Just one big conveyor belt and out it goes...
At work we have a similiar Maschine UT800, do you have a 2 or 3 speed Headstock?
Three speed, thankfully
@@halheavyduty We too but , the Range between the speeds is not that great and the Headstock is really Noisy -> straight gears 1. 26-225 rpm 2. 225-670 Rpm 3. 671-200 400mm Schunk Chuck.
Nice. Yeah, we have a lower gear that goes only to 186 rpm, so it’s actually pretty useful.
Rarely use the high gear though. Like three times in the last year
Kinda sounds like the drill is rapid feeding to the bottom of the hole, and then feeding rather than feeding in each peck @13:01.
Yeah… it was a bit of a shitshow. The chatter caused issues. Mostly because the HSS nose drill took up over half the Z axis power so I couldn’t drive it hard enough.
Def a learning experience 🤣
@halheavyduty great work though keep it up 👍
Cheers mate!
Use spade bits example ALLIED MACHINE AND ENGINEERING make your own bar to fit??
We used to run spade bits, but found they eat up too much Z axis load on the CNC.
We still run them occasionally in the hulk, but need carbide for the CNC. Next machine I buy is going to have serious Z axis power.
And you think one grub screw will hold it from turning?
Hell no 🤣
It has four on top and two on the side. Didn’t budge.