One of the greatest fixes of all time. I was totally hosed. I broke and easy out inside a stainless set screw in a bronze boat strut. I was totally defeated and did not know what to do. then saw this video. Went through a few grinding stones and got a nice straight hole and ground out the broken easy out. Was an easy drill out after that. Thank so much!!!
I just did this on a valve cover bolt that had snapped and then broke easy out into that bolt it took 10 hours and 6 packs chainsaw bits @ 6 dollars or so and 3 grinding stone bits @ 6 dollars or so, I didn’t want to chance snapping another easy out so I grinded out the easy out and bolt, then re-tapped the threads worth it if you ask me.... Hell yes!
Thanks Bryan, this video helped me out this weekend! I broke the head off of a tension bolt on my alternator. I tried using a small screw extractor but it broke off (strike 1). I got it out and then went up to a larger size but that one broke off as well (strike 2)! I went out and bought a cheap rotary tool to grind out the extractor but that tool broke while changing the bit (strike 3). I finally got a brand name Dremel and was able to get the job done with some patience (YES!). I found that the diamond tip bits were faster than the grinding stones, for what it's worth. PS - I work at Tekton and enjoy seeing your honest and thorough reviews of our tools. Keep up the great work on the channel!
Lol... Yeah, it does take a little patience for sure. I love Tekton tools I recommend Tekton to all my viewers and Friends! Hey, Thanks for the positive feedback and glad the video helped you out, Scott!
@@jlateralus21 Yeah, it worked, but requires a bit of patience. I bought a little set of diamond tip bits and chewed through a bunch to fully grind it out. Best wishes.
Get a set of left handed drill bits, and keep them with your easy outs. When you drill the hole for the easy out, a lot of times, the heat from drilling, along with the left turning drill bit, will remove the broken bolt. When that happens, it's a good day. For a broken easy out, if you have an acetylene torch, you can heat the broken easy out (don't melt, or weld it), to a bright red color, then let it cool. Doing so will anneal the super hard easy out to a softer state, and it will be much easier to grind on.
Hi Bryan, just watch this video. Brother you just saved my bacon !!! I just broke off a Hanson bolt extractor in my boat motor. Thank You !! Thx U !! I'm off to Lowe's to get some Dremel Sharpening bits and go to town on that bad boy!!
Best I’ve seen, I’ve been in misery stranded on this mountain due to four water jacket bolts broken on a 84 .351 W. I’m at the end of my rope and I’m just on the first extraction attempt.
Hi Bryan, gotta say after giving up hope on my head bolt that snapped deep inside my engine block and I also broke of a easy out in it, after watching your video and got myself a Rotary tool went through 4 bits and the bolt come out easy, took me about an hour but its out..... Thank you you are a lifesaver
Half way through this method now thanks to this video. I snapped a flywheel bolt and then snapped an extractor trying to extract it. Was worried that I would need to drop the entire crank and send it in to an adult to fix. The grinding stone method is working, just waiting on some more as I've worn my cheap ones down.
Thanks, Bryan. I was trying to remove the lower unit on an older outboard engine, and broke of the bolts. Then to make things worse, I broke the extractor. Your advice of using a dremel tool is genius. I can’t wait to try this.
You haven't lived life to its fullest until you have experienced this scenario. Here in the Rust Belt its quite common. Now, I reach for left handed drill bits and dont fool with bolt extractors. That usually walks broken bolts right out. I've also scorched em out by torch before, not my favorite method, but it can be done. Great demonstration
TwiZ--Not to contradict your method, but my finding is that although effective, left-handed drill bits don't always work at loosening/removing corroded fasteners. In fact, you're having a charmed day if they do; so many things can go wrong for you when you have to try to extract a broken bolt. On those occasions when you're dealing with one that's Loctited in place, even more so. Then yes, heat is the way to go. Bryan's comment about folks using an extractor that's not big enough is well taken, and will get me to drill a larger diameter and deeper hole, followed by a bigger extractor than I might have used before. The Dremel trick to grind out the broken extractor is another gem. I've found that tapered, square-sided extractors are usually a better bet than the standard multi-splined types. Their design bites in better, with less tendency to spin than a multi-splined extractor will. They're also the ones that work best if you're trying to extract a fastener that's made of brass or plastic (i.e., soft materials).
Like I said, usually works, (kinda means the same thing as don't always work). Living in Pa., it is not an uncommon thing to have rusted froze in place and snapped off fasteners. In the 35+ years I have been doing this stuff I've seen a lot. Busted taps, drill bits, and bolts dealt with them all. I learned a long time ago to start pre-treating (if possible) with PB Blaster or the like days ahead of time. If I feel any chance that it may break, out comes the hot wrench, which doesn't always work, and the bolt snaps. I have become quite handy with said hot wrench, and if possible I can zap it out with the fire ax, (lug nuts too, without damaging the threads). I have also taken my mig welder, lay a nut over it, weld it on the broken bolt, and sometimes that works too. Not any one method is 100% foolproof. Sometimes ya have to try all the methods mentioned, and even get creative (chisels, punches, drill bolt so thin you can fold it over etc.) with other methods
this is handy if you don't have a welder around but I stopped using easy outs a long time ago. Welding a nut over broken bolts is the fastest and easiest way of extracting even when the broken bolt is recessed like this one.
Burnt up a couple cobalt bits, welded a nut on twice, ate up diamond bits in the Dremel. Dremel got it out on third aluminum oxide grinding bit. Thanks
Hey man thanks for being extremely helpful I was lost on how to get out a broken easy out. I saw your video and tried it and it work flawlessly only other thing I did was use a tungsten carbide tip instead and was great you should try it next time just giving a tip for anyone.
Yeah, Those tungsten carbides bits are some pretty aggressive little bits I've used those as well. Thanks for viewing, I'm gald I was able to help you out, Jordan!
Bryan916 just screwing around. Good idea, I’m going to throw a dremel in the tool truck with some bits. Might come in handy. Light does suck though. ;-)
Man you just saved my car!! Had a sheered off idle pulley bolt that was recessed into the aluminum block. Broke a large easy out in the hole I drilled. Sat there looking at it after it broke like "welp, thats the end of that" Ha ha. Removed the oil pump from the block which gave me a little nub of the bolt to work with about 1/8 of an inch depth before the engine block. Was going to attempt putting a nut on that then using welder to weld the inside of the nut to the face of the snapped bolt (will be my last resort) nut I will patiently try this. Thx Again!!
For faster, easier grinding, use Tungsten Carbide burrs. They come in 1/8" shaft (for dremel tools) and 1/4" shaft (for die grinders). They're much harder than the tool steel used for drill bits, taps and screw extractors, so they can grind them right out. You can also use Colbalt steel drill bits or solid carbide drill bits to drill it out.
@@alec3744for like i think I basically had to drill the thing through and out with a diamond tip drill bit And then Heli coil 2 of the 3 holes I had to extract bolts out of (yes there were multiple)
Awesome, finally found a reason to buy myself a dremel. I'm gonna give this a shot today myself. Fingers crossed i'll be able to get the damn bolt out.
Only mechanics have he heart to do something like this and of course, a hard as you tried to break stuff, it would not cooperate with you. I keep left handed drill bits in my box just for getting out studs and bolts. I like your attitude and clicked all the places to get notes and stuff. Thank you
thank you so much im currently having a conniption fit with 6 broken bolts on my bike, a broken extractor in 1 bolt and a broken tap in another hole. thank you for the idea i pray it works
Cool, good video man, never even thought about using the dremel. Extractors do break I've had one that I've given up on like a yr ago but it's several sizes bigger than this application. I will be revisiting it with this method.
Usually the head breaks off when over tightening and the inner thread is now relieved of the stress and doesn't need much to get it out, but on the other hand just the opposite, when rust and corrosion have done their thing, it's easy to break a bolt trying to remove it and an easy out is useless. I remember a time doing brakes on an old motorcycle, actually installing a caliper kit because the pistons didn't want to go back in. The bleeder valve broke off. I put the aluminum caliper in the vice, cleaned the stub broken at the surface and with a wire feed welder, welded a little ball on that stub and then quickly quenched it and the steel bleeder shrunk after expanding the aluminum threads and it just twisted right out almost by fingers only.
I have an exhaust manifold stud that broke off in the cylinder head. I was nervous about messing up the head, so I used a really small extractor and drilled the hole too shallow, and that extractor snapped like a twig. Now I’m gonna try the dremel tool and see if that works.
This is a great trick! One improvement would be that you can use a regular 3/8 drill with the abrasive bits and it will go faster to hog out the easy out since the drill has higher amperage and puts more energy on the work piece than the dremel. Just be careful not to put too much pressure on the bit since it's a small diameter and can snap off of course.
Great vid :-) My luck, I would break the head off of a bolt that is between the block and firewall and I have an inch and a half clearance to get some "uh oh tools" in there to try and "unscrew" myself as it were lol. Effective method you have here :-)
Bryan--Breakage can be caused by 1) Not using a large-enough extractor (at least half the diameter of the bolt you're trying to remove; 2) And/or by not drilling a hole deep enough into the bolt (at least 1/2" or so) before you place the extractor into the hole to begin backing it out. If you're not into the thicker part of the tapered extractor, you'll be placing a lot of force on the narrow tip, which can cause it to snap after a turn or two. Nice video; gives us some tips on how to recover once it does break.
just did this today broke my easy out in a manifold bolt tried drilling out the easy out it dulled all my bits fortunately i have a dremel and plenty of grinding stones for it i already started on it today will finish it tomorrow
Bro i broke off the same exact easy out here in the uk. Was sooooo carefull to try not to brake the bolt on my godfathers 600cc bike exhaust manifold that i spent a week spraying and trying all kinds so i wouldnt brake. Sucker broke after 30mins of trying to gently unscrew. Bought special left handes sharp bit to help undo it but still frozen still like Jim Carrey in Mask. Easy out went in nice and snug and BAAAMM broke 2. At this point i had wet my pants a lil'bit. So tried everything and today found your vid so imma try that. If i do get it out imma be the most grateful annoying loooong message typing portuguese dude. This ma last chance in life!! Lol peace
Ricardo Cardoso Bill Kenny I just did this on a valve cover bolt that had snapped and then broke easy out into that bolt it took 10 hours and 6 packs chainsaw bits @ 6 dollars or so and 3 grinding stone bits @ 6 dollars or so, I didn’t want to chance snapping another easy out so I grinded out the easy out and bolt, then re-tapped the threads worth it if you ask me.... Hell yes!
@@thedon95376 I had to dremel out the easy out and then drilled into the centre of the bolt and then my cousin helped me out and with a mini flat head screw driver tapped the broken bolt bits out. And voi-fu...ing-lla it came out in bits and he pre-taped the thread and we managed to carry on with the restoration and its looked the bomb when finished. Glad you sorted it out 2 peace out ;)
One time I was servicing the brake shoes for the parking brake on a 2002 chevy tahoe. They have I think 8mm that so tiny to hold them together I. I broke the bolt head off. I got a tiny punch and I grinded it into a chisel end and used a little hammer. I hit the chisel with the hammer to screw it off. I saw the edge where it just broke off and that where I hit it. Slowly but firm and bam came off. One time on a 91 Ford F-150 with a v8 I broke a bolt near the timing cover for the water pump. It was just a clamping area i.e. Some people call it a Ear. I ended up cutting the ear off removing the bolt/broken extractor and welding the ear back on.
This video has helped out tons of people! No Messing about here Paul! The welding method does not always work you should know that! Also, the heat from welding can cause more harm than good in certain situations. The last point, what if the person does not have a welder Paul should he go buy an expensive welder just to remove one broken bolt? Your comment is meaningless. Thanks for viewing!
After my exlerience with easy out i refuse to use them for anything else than maybe a wood screw. The emotional pain you have to endure to get it out is not worth taking its easier to just drill in the first place
How long did it take you and how many grinding stones did you go through? Mine's gone deep and I'm sure i couldn't pull it out a little ways like you did so we could see. It's just going deeper and deeper. Talking seized to the max. Broken cobalt and titanium bolt. I be in a jam. Thanks for the video.
Great videos Bryan916. Have you ever seen the A-SURE OUT extractor? It can be removed in seconds if it breaks, no EDM or DRILLING. After seeing it, only a fool would use anything else! All materials and labor made in the USA! For over 100 years the bolt extractor has changed in many ways, however the failure of a bolt extractor seems to have been carelessly overlooked leaving all users the possibility of catastrophic failure. Help support an American company. Thank you.
Ok dude, I have this problem... WILLING to put in the work to get a 3/8 inch bolt out.... WHERE AND WHAT SIZE DREMMEL grinder do I get????... PLEASE help...
You want a Dremel 400 a 200 will work but not as good. you can pick one up at Lowes or amazon here's a link amzn.to/2IOso8L you may also have success using a tungsten carbide bit as well as grinding stone bits. You'll get it out take your time and grind it out!
This link you gave me is a 32 piece set... I need to know what you recommend to take out a 3/8 inch bolt... I KNOW I need SEVERAL to do it.... I need to know what DREMMEL bit you suggest for THAT rather than me buying SEVERAL 32 piece sets... PLEASE!
@@jackwiggins961 Yeah so a 3/8" bolt is pretty big if I where you I would definitely buy a few different bits. Try the aluminum oxide grinding stone as well as a few double cut carbide bits.
I REALLY appreciate the links guys... I've been working for THREE afternoons to resolve this issue... I'll be placing some orders and let you know how this goes.... Murphy's law, right???
I agree using easy outs can be kinda dangerous. However, this information is completely useless for this video most people watching this video likely have already used an easy out that broke off! The best tool to use would be a Tapered Bit Extractor! ruclips.net/video/2fPeB_J35Qo/видео.html
@@Bryan916 Well, I just broke half the torx head off in my Honda mower muffler bolt in the head. Heading to HF to try some diamond bits and grinding bits for Dremel. Hope the torx head isn't harder than the (not so) easy out.
@@Bryan916 Oh great, I snapped off a tap then a left handed drill bit on top of that! I got down to the last bolt by a water port and was nearly to the end when this happened. 351w will have to wait for new intake manifold as I will be stopping by Lowe's for these grinding stones after work. Might pick up one of those little blue propane torches as well. Thanks for a well done video, seeing is so much more informative than reading or listening to a friend who may or may not help 🙂
Ricardo Cardoso Bill Kenny I just did this on a valve cover bolt that had snapped and then broke easy out into that bolt it took 10 hours and 6 packs chainsaw bits @ 6 dollars or so and 3 grinding stone bits @ 6 dollars or so, I didn’t want to chance snapping another easy out so I grinded out the easy out and bolt, then re-tapped the threads worth it if you ask me.... Hell yes!
How much you charge for This service I have this scenario on a cam shaft cap bearing it’s a valve cover bolt, I’m in the 209 I can ride out to sac area ASAP? What’s your shop number or email?
3 Subscribers Without Any Videos!!!!! It’s in about a quarter inch not broken flush to the top and the part is aluminum I’m not sure a welder weld pieces with a quarter inch gap without harming the aluminum bearing cap even the threads
Ricardo Cardoso Bill Kenny I just did this on a valve cover bolt that had snapped and then broke easy out into that bolt it took 10 hours and 6 packs chainsaw bits @ 6 dollars or so and 3 grinding stone bits @ 6 dollars or so, I didn’t want to chance snapping another easy out so I grinded out the easy out and bolt, then re-tapped the threads worth it if you ask me.... Hell yes!
Great video, After viewing your video, I wanted to ask if you have ever used an A-Sure Out Extractors. When I saw this product I was very amazed by the result of being able to remove the extractor if it does break which you pointed out they do break, But with the A-Sure Out Extractor if it breaks its very simple and easily to be removed. It has a fail safe technology integrated into it. Would you do a video on one of the A-Sure Out Extractor to let us all know how it works. I believe this is a great tool and a game changer when extracting a bolt. Check out www.a-sureout.com will save you alot of down time and get you back to the main job.
Bill Kenny I just did this on a valve cover bolt that had snapped and then broke easy out into that bolt it took 10 hours and 6 packs chainsaw bits @ 6 dollars or so and 3 grinding stone bits @ 6 dollars or so, I didn’t want to chance snapping another easy out so I grinded out easy out and bolt then re-tapped the threads...worth it if you ask me.... Hell yes!
You may also have success using tungsten carbide bits, happy grinding! 🤝
When that easy out breaks,,,so does your heart, lol
No kidding!!!
George Spangler lol you got that right
I still have ptsd from this happening to me over the years… many tools have bounced off the wall because of this…
You are mvp, removed broke ez out from Subaru knuckle in 10 minutes ❤
One of the greatest fixes of all time. I was totally hosed. I broke and easy out inside a stainless set screw in a bronze boat strut. I was totally defeated and did not know what to do. then saw this video. Went through a few grinding stones and got a nice straight hole and ground out the broken easy out. Was an easy drill out after that. Thank so much!!!
I received a tip from you, Thank you! 🤝
@@Bryan916 Money well spent Bryan. Thank you for sharing. I am a subscriber now!
I just did this on a valve cover bolt that had snapped and then broke easy out into that bolt it took 10 hours and 6 packs chainsaw bits @ 6 dollars or so and 3 grinding stone bits @ 6 dollars or so, I didn’t want to chance snapping another easy out so I grinded out the easy out and bolt, then re-tapped the threads worth it if you ask me.... Hell yes!
Thanks Bryan, this video helped me out this weekend! I broke the head off of a tension bolt on my alternator. I tried using a small screw extractor but it broke off (strike 1). I got it out and then went up to a larger size but that one broke off as well (strike 2)! I went out and bought a cheap rotary tool to grind out the extractor but that tool broke while changing the bit (strike 3). I finally got a brand name Dremel and was able to get the job done with some patience (YES!). I found that the diamond tip bits were faster than the grinding stones, for what it's worth. PS - I work at Tekton and enjoy seeing your honest and thorough reviews of our tools. Keep up the great work on the channel!
Lol... Yeah, it does take a little patience for sure. I love Tekton tools I recommend Tekton to all my viewers and Friends! Hey, Thanks for the positive feedback and glad the video helped you out, Scott!
I've broken two easy outs trying to remove the windshield bolts from my jeep (after I stripped the torx bits) you say the dremel worked?
@@jlateralus21 Yeah, it worked, but requires a bit of patience. I bought a little set of diamond tip bits and chewed through a bunch to fully grind it out.
Best wishes.
Get a set of left handed drill bits, and keep them with your easy outs. When you drill the hole for the easy out, a lot of times, the heat from drilling, along with the left turning drill bit, will remove the broken bolt. When that happens, it's a good day. For a broken easy out, if you have an acetylene torch, you can heat the broken easy out (don't melt, or weld it), to a bright red color, then let it cool. Doing so will anneal the super hard easy out to a softer state, and it will be much easier to grind on.
Thanks. This helped me out in a pinch. I was really sweating it when the easy-out broke off. I used a diameter that was too small. Painful lesson.
Hi Bryan, just watch this video. Brother you just saved my bacon !!! I just broke off a Hanson bolt extractor in my boat motor. Thank You !! Thx U !! I'm off to Lowe's to get some Dremel Sharpening bits and go to town on that bad boy!!
Let me know how it went?
This video is about 3 years old. Thank you for posting the video. You got me out of a bind.
You're welcome!
Best I’ve seen, I’ve been in misery stranded on this mountain due to four water jacket bolts broken on a 84 .351 W. I’m at the end of my rope and I’m just on the first extraction attempt.
Hi Bryan, gotta say after giving up hope on my head bolt that snapped deep inside my engine block and I also broke of a easy out in it, after watching your video and got myself a Rotary tool went through 4 bits and the bolt come out easy, took me about an hour but its out..... Thank you you are a lifesaver
You got it out! Right on man, nice work! Glad I could help out!!!
Now i'm going to try to break off my EZ out ...... said no one ever
🤝🤝
You saved my fricken life! I never thought to use a dremel. 7.99 for the Dimond bits and 2 grueling hours later I'm good to go. Thank you a ton.
I will use this method tomorrow.I have done enough damage today.Thanks for making this vid and giving me hope.
Half way through this method now thanks to this video. I snapped a flywheel bolt and then snapped an extractor trying to extract it. Was worried that I would need to drop the entire crank and send it in to an adult to fix. The grinding stone method is working, just waiting on some more as I've worn my cheap ones down.
Thanks, Bryan.
I was trying to remove the lower unit on an older outboard engine, and broke of the bolts. Then
to make things worse, I broke the extractor. Your advice of using a dremel tool is genius.
I can’t wait to try this.
Bryan, thanks for this! Doing an LS swap and had 3 broken exhaust manifold bolts. Broke extractors in 2. Dremel saved me! Thanks again!
did the same exact thing. trying the dremel tomorrow
Hey man a thousand thanks ! That dremel trick did the job ! I'll pass this tip on to anybody who asks. Because it frickin works !
Brother you saved me with this video! Broke a motor mount bolt today, it will be my first time extracting. Thanks for sharing. *downloaded*
Thanks for this! Had a bolt and screw extractor snap off in a brand new motorcycle wheel. This is working well so far.
You haven't lived life to its fullest until you have experienced this scenario. Here in the Rust Belt its quite common. Now, I reach for left handed drill bits and dont fool with bolt extractors. That usually walks broken bolts right out. I've also scorched em out by torch before, not my favorite method, but it can be done. Great demonstration
TwiZ--Not to contradict your method, but my finding is that although effective, left-handed drill bits don't always work at loosening/removing corroded fasteners. In fact, you're having a charmed day if they do; so many things can go wrong for you when you have to try to extract a broken bolt. On those occasions when you're dealing with one that's Loctited in place, even more so. Then yes, heat is the way to go. Bryan's comment about folks using an extractor that's not big enough is well taken, and will get me to drill a larger diameter and deeper hole, followed by a bigger extractor than I might have used before. The Dremel trick to grind out the broken extractor is another gem. I've found that tapered, square-sided extractors are usually a better bet than the standard multi-splined types. Their design bites in better, with less tendency to spin than a multi-splined extractor will. They're also the ones that work best if you're trying to extract a fastener that's made of brass or plastic (i.e., soft materials).
Like I said, usually works, (kinda means the same thing as don't always work). Living in Pa., it is not an uncommon thing to have rusted froze in place and snapped off fasteners. In the 35+ years I have been doing this stuff I've seen a lot. Busted taps, drill bits, and bolts dealt with them all. I learned a long time ago to start pre-treating (if possible) with PB Blaster or the like days ahead of time. If I feel any chance that it may break, out comes the hot wrench, which doesn't always work, and the bolt snaps. I have become quite handy with said hot wrench, and if possible I can zap it out with the fire ax, (lug nuts too, without damaging the threads). I have also taken my mig welder, lay a nut over it, weld it on the broken bolt, and sometimes that works too. Not any one method is 100% foolproof. Sometimes ya have to try all the methods mentioned, and even get creative (chisels, punches, drill bolt so thin you can fold it over etc.) with other methods
Your method offers a ray of hope. Thank you.
You may also have success using a tungsten carbide bit as well!
this is handy if you don't have a welder around but I stopped using easy outs a long time ago. Welding a nut over broken bolts is the fastest and easiest way of extracting even when the broken bolt is recessed like this one.
Thanks for making this video. Great tips that will help many, myself included. I'm gonna do this.
Excellent!
Burnt up a couple cobalt bits, welded a nut on twice, ate up diamond bits in the Dremel. Dremel got it out on third aluminum oxide grinding bit.
Thanks
Hey man thanks for being extremely helpful I was lost on how to get out a broken easy out. I saw your video and tried it and it work flawlessly only other thing I did was use a tungsten carbide tip instead and was great you should try it next time just giving a tip for anyone.
Yeah, Those tungsten carbides bits are some pretty aggressive little bits I've used those as well. Thanks for viewing, I'm gald I was able to help you out, Jordan!
Some of the best lighting I’ve seen...
Some of the best nonsense comments I've seen
Bryan916 just screwing around. Good idea, I’m going to throw a dremel in the tool truck with some bits. Might come in handy. Light does suck though. ;-)
thanks --i'm in the doomsday scenario right now--try the dremel tomorrow
Man you just saved my car!! Had a sheered off idle pulley bolt that was recessed into the aluminum block. Broke a large easy out in the hole I drilled. Sat there looking at it after it broke like "welp, thats the end of that" Ha ha. Removed the oil pump from the block which gave me a little nub of the bolt to work with about 1/8 of an inch depth before the engine block. Was going to attempt putting a nut on that then using welder to weld the inside of the nut to the face of the snapped bolt (will be my last resort) nut I will patiently try this. Thx Again!!
It will work with a bit of Patience and a few of the right grinding bits.
Youll get it out no worries!
Thanks man!! This helped alot. Broken easy out in a manifold bolt!
Thanks Bryan you have given me some hope!
For faster, easier grinding, use Tungsten Carbide burrs. They come in 1/8" shaft (for dremel tools) and 1/4" shaft (for die grinders). They're much harder than the tool steel used for drill bits, taps and screw extractors, so they can grind them right out. You can also use Colbalt steel drill bits or solid carbide drill bits to drill it out.
Yeah, Tungsten Carbide burrs are tuff mean little bits! thanks for sharing your knowledge Brother!
I agree, but Bryan's idea with grinding bits is 100% safe, 'cos I don't want to think what I should do if the carbide brakes inside
@@YiorgosGamerPro throw the whole car out
@@YiorgosGamerPro edm is the only way at that point.
I had a broken extractor broke off today. I bought thru a set of new Colbalt bits and have no luck.
really glad i found this video,sure going to make it easier to get the one i broke off in a small engine that i am working on,thank you
Thank you for making this!
Even though i Used another method, I really appreciate it . Having this option is phenomenal.
Glad it helped!
what method did you use?
@@alec3744for like i think I basically had to drill the thing through and out with a diamond tip drill bit
And then Heli coil 2 of the 3 holes I had to extract bolts out of (yes there were multiple)
Awesome, finally found a reason to buy myself a dremel. I'm gonna give this a shot today myself. Fingers crossed i'll be able to get the damn bolt out.
Bro you’re a genius!! 💪
Only mechanics have he heart to do something like this and of course, a hard as you tried to break stuff, it would not cooperate with you. I keep left handed drill bits in my box just for getting out studs and bolts. I like your attitude and clicked all the places to get notes and stuff. Thank you
thank you so much im currently having a conniption fit with 6 broken bolts on my bike, a broken extractor in 1 bolt and a broken tap in another hole. thank you for the idea i pray it works
Cool, good video man, never even thought about using the dremel. Extractors do break I've had one that I've given up on like a yr ago but it's several sizes bigger than this application. I will be revisiting it with this method.
your a life saver, i never thought of a dremel
Well done Bryan, thanx from Greece
Thanks a million mate you got me out of a massive pickle. Worked perfectly. Cheers Roman
Thanks for video. Awesome idea.
Great video. I will try my Dremel as last resort.
Thanks Bro it worked out great 👍🏾
Going to give this a shot tomorrow when i get home from work! Thanks its the video/ answer I was needing!
Thanx got that easy out
Out fromthe euhaust stud your method worked save me from pulling the head on my harley n costing money n time
Thank you for this video. The guy ay napa straight up said "you're fucked" I'm really trying to avoid taking the head off of my engine.
Good, helpful video. Definitely the best video I've seen on how to get one out without special tools. Fingers crossed!
This might actually work on my motorcycle wheel! I will update you. Thanks for the tip!
Usually the head breaks off when over tightening and the inner thread is now relieved of the stress and doesn't need much to get it out, but on the other hand just the opposite, when rust and corrosion have done their thing, it's easy to break a bolt trying to remove it and an easy out is useless. I remember a time doing brakes on an old motorcycle, actually installing a caliper kit because the pistons didn't want to go back in. The bleeder valve broke off. I put the aluminum caliper in the vice, cleaned the stub broken at the surface and with a wire feed welder, welded a little ball on that stub and then quickly quenched it and the steel bleeder shrunk after expanding the aluminum threads and it just twisted right out almost by fingers only.
Great vid!
I have an exhaust manifold stud that broke off in the cylinder head. I was nervous about messing up the head, so I used a really small extractor and drilled the hole too shallow, and that extractor snapped like a twig. Now I’m gonna try the dremel tool and see if that works.
Thanks Bryan… I am in a jam.
This is a great trick! One improvement would be that you can use a regular 3/8 drill with the abrasive bits and it will go faster to hog out the easy out since the drill has higher amperage and puts more energy on the work piece than the dremel. Just be careful not to put too much pressure on the bit since it's a small diameter and can snap off of course.
Very helpful thank you sir!
I'm guessing that grinding bit is likely a carbide tip
Thanks for the video!
Bravo 🎉 perfect, outstanding ❤
thanks buddy! 1997 jeep tj rear shock on top!
Thank you. Cool extraction I will keep this in mind.
Great vid :-) My luck, I would break the head off of a bolt that is between the block and firewall and I have an inch and a half clearance to get some "uh oh tools" in there to try and "unscrew" myself as it were lol. Effective method you have here :-)
Damn that would totally suck! Thank you for all the positive feedback Kayla.
@@Bryan916 Yes Sir it would! (Been there and done similar type stuff..BIG PAIN in my big butt! lol). My pleasure, I love your content!! :-)
Great video man thanks
Thank You
Bryan--Breakage can be caused by 1) Not using a large-enough extractor (at least half the diameter of the bolt you're trying to remove; 2) And/or by not drilling a hole deep enough into the bolt (at least 1/2" or so) before you place the extractor into the hole to begin backing it out. If you're not into the thicker part of the tapered extractor, you'll be placing a lot of force on the narrow tip, which can cause it to snap after a turn or two. Nice video; gives us some tips on how to recover once it does break.
Yes Point well-taken, thanks for the positive feedback it's much appreciated on this channel!
Awesome video....Thanks for taking your time to share that
just did this today broke my easy out in a manifold bolt tried drilling out the easy out it dulled all my bits fortunately i have a dremel and plenty of grinding stones for it i already started on it today will finish it tomorrow
Thanks my brotha for the excellent video and info.
Bro i broke off the same exact easy out here in the uk. Was sooooo carefull to try not to brake the bolt on my godfathers 600cc bike exhaust manifold that i spent a week spraying and trying all kinds so i wouldnt brake.
Sucker broke after 30mins of trying to gently unscrew. Bought special left handes sharp bit to help undo it but still frozen still like Jim Carrey in Mask. Easy out went in nice and snug and BAAAMM broke 2. At this point i had wet my pants a lil'bit. So tried everything and today found your vid so imma try that. If i do get it out imma be the most grateful annoying loooong message typing portuguese dude. This ma last chance in life!! Lol peace
Ricardo Cardoso Bill Kenny I just did this on a valve cover bolt that had snapped and then broke easy out into that bolt it took 10 hours and 6 packs chainsaw bits @ 6 dollars or so and 3 grinding stone bits @ 6 dollars or so, I didn’t want to chance snapping another easy out so I grinded out the easy out and bolt, then re-tapped the threads worth it if you ask me.... Hell yes!
@@thedon95376 I had to dremel out the easy out and then drilled into the centre of the bolt and then my cousin helped me out and with a mini flat head screw driver tapped the broken bolt bits out. And voi-fu...ing-lla it came out in bits and he pre-taped the thread and we managed to carry on with the restoration and its looked the bomb when finished. Glad you sorted it out 2 peace out ;)
One time I was servicing the brake shoes for the parking brake on a 2002 chevy tahoe. They have I think 8mm that so tiny to hold them together I. I broke the bolt head off. I got a tiny punch and I grinded it into a chisel end and used a little hammer. I hit the chisel with the hammer to screw it off. I saw the edge where it just broke off and that where I hit it. Slowly but firm and bam came off. One time on a 91 Ford F-150 with a v8 I broke a bolt near the timing cover for the water pump. It was just a clamping area i.e. Some people call it a Ear. I ended up cutting the ear off removing the bolt/broken extractor and welding the ear back on.
Forget using an easyout build up a weld until you can get mole grips on it, sorted! Much quicker than messing about like this.
This video has helped out tons of people! No Messing about here Paul! The welding method does not always work you should know that! Also, the heat from welding can cause more harm than good in certain situations. The last point, what if the person does not have a welder Paul should he go buy an expensive welder just to remove one broken bolt? Your comment is meaningless. Thanks for viewing!
@@Bryan916 Exactly my situation. Thanks.
great idea, thanks
Good job !😉😎🤔
After my exlerience with easy out i refuse to use them for anything else than maybe a wood screw. The emotional pain you have to endure to get it out is not worth taking its easier to just drill in the first place
11:44 is what your looking for
14:25 is him redirecting himself
i use xzn bits, spline
How long did it take you and how many grinding stones did you go through? Mine's gone deep and I'm sure i couldn't pull it out a little ways like you did so we could see. It's just going deeper and deeper. Talking seized to the max. Broken cobalt and titanium bolt. I be in a jam. Thanks for the video.
Took like 20 or 30 mins and like 3 0r 4 grindstones but because you be in a Jam you should probably use Tungsten Carbide burrs.
Thank's
I saw the bolt move the last time you drilled it
How long does it take?
What if you dont have that other tool
I broke a small easy out on my 99 ram intake...... man, that was a mess
They make a tool for broken taps
Great videos Bryan916. Have you ever seen the A-SURE OUT extractor? It can be removed in seconds if it breaks, no EDM or DRILLING. After seeing it, only a fool would use anything else! All materials and labor made in the USA! For over 100 years the bolt extractor has changed in many ways, however the failure of a bolt extractor seems to have been carelessly overlooked leaving all users the possibility of catastrophic failure. Help support an American company. Thank you.
I've never heard of A-sureout tools but im interested in learning more about your products
How long did the grinding take?
Ok dude, I have this problem... WILLING to put in the work to get a 3/8 inch bolt out.... WHERE AND WHAT SIZE DREMMEL grinder do I get????... PLEASE help...
You want a Dremel 400 a 200 will work but not as good. you can pick one up at Lowes or amazon here's a link amzn.to/2IOso8L
you may also have success using a tungsten carbide bit as well as grinding stone bits. You'll get it out take your time and grind it out!
This link you gave me is a 32 piece set... I need to know what you recommend to take out a 3/8 inch bolt... I KNOW I need SEVERAL to do it.... I need to know what DREMMEL bit you suggest for THAT rather than me buying SEVERAL 32 piece sets... PLEASE!
@@jackwiggins961 Yeah so a 3/8" bolt is pretty big if I where you I would definitely buy a few different bits. Try the aluminum oxide grinding stone as well as a few double cut carbide bits.
Double Cut Carbide Rotary Burr Set
amzn.to/3t84GXH
Dremel 952 Aluminum Oxide Grinding Stone
amzn.to/3yGEJ2C
I REALLY appreciate the links guys... I've been working for THREE afternoons to resolve this issue... I'll be placing some orders and let you know how this goes.... Murphy's law, right???
👍
Anyone have a link to that dremel bit?
The easiest thing to do is not to use easy-outs. knock in a Torx or splined bit instead.
I agree using easy outs can be kinda dangerous. However, this information is completely useless for this video most people watching this video likely have already used an easy out that broke off! The best tool to use would be a Tapered Bit Extractor! ruclips.net/video/2fPeB_J35Qo/видео.html
@@Bryan916
Well, I just broke half the torx head off in my Honda mower muffler bolt in the head. Heading to HF to try some diamond bits and grinding bits for Dremel. Hope the torx head isn't harder than the (not so) easy out.
How long did this actually take? Minus the editing
about 20mins
@@Bryan916 Oh great, I snapped off a tap then a left handed drill bit on top of that! I got down to the last bolt by a water port and was nearly to the end when this happened. 351w will have to wait for new intake manifold as I will be stopping by Lowe's for these grinding stones after work. Might pick up one of those little blue propane torches as well.
Thanks for a well done video, seeing is so much more informative than reading or listening to a friend who may or may not help 🙂
Ricardo Cardoso Bill Kenny I just did this on a valve cover bolt that had snapped and then broke easy out into that bolt it took 10 hours and 6 packs chainsaw bits @ 6 dollars or so and 3 grinding stone bits @ 6 dollars or so, I didn’t want to chance snapping another easy out so I grinded out the easy out and bolt, then re-tapped the threads worth it if you ask me.... Hell yes!
only problem is I cant take the motor out of my van to reach the broken extractor like in this vid
How much you charge for
This service I have this scenario on a cam shaft cap bearing it’s a valve cover bolt, I’m in the 209 I can ride out to sac area ASAP? What’s your shop number or email?
3 Subscribers Without Any Videos!!!!! It’s in about a quarter inch not broken flush to the top and the part is aluminum I’m not sure a welder weld pieces with a quarter inch gap without harming the aluminum bearing cap even the threads
Ricardo Cardoso Bill Kenny I just did this on a valve cover bolt that had snapped and then broke easy out into that bolt it took 10 hours and 6 packs chainsaw bits @ 6 dollars or so and 3 grinding stone bits @ 6 dollars or so, I didn’t want to chance snapping another easy out so I grinded out the easy out and bolt, then re-tapped the threads worth it if you ask me.... Hell yes!
Do it again, lol
Great video, After viewing your video, I wanted to ask if you have ever used an A-Sure Out Extractors. When I saw this product I was very amazed by the result of being able to remove the extractor if it does break which you pointed out they do break, But with the A-Sure Out Extractor if it breaks its very simple and easily to be removed. It has a fail safe technology integrated into it. Would you do a video on one of the A-Sure Out Extractor to let us all know how it works. I believe this is a great tool and a game changer when extracting a bolt. Check out www.a-sureout.com will save you alot of down time and get you back to the main job.
better to weld it up and vise grip turn it out
Nothing wrong with that if circumstances permits!
@@Bryan916 Oh, these damn welding people love to talk like everybody can just do that.
How long did it take?
Bill Kenny I just did this on a valve cover bolt that had snapped and then broke easy out into that bolt it took 10 hours and 6 packs chainsaw bits @ 6 dollars or so and 3 grinding stone bits @ 6 dollars or so, I didn’t want to chance snapping another easy out so I grinded out easy out and bolt then re-tapped the threads...worth it if you ask me.... Hell yes!
Change the title to how to remove a broken bolt
stupid
Your loc-tite didn't work because you used too much.. that stuff works best if you only use a drop...
I think both of you are correct. Too much will take longer to dry but once dried harder to take out.
Light is your best friend, try that next time u film.
Stupid comment!