For your first time, your presentation was outstanding. You explained and visually demonstrated the how's and why's and do's and don't. You were easy to follow and gave my confidence the boost it needed. Thanks
Just FYI - Acid core is typically used for plumbing and rosin core is for electrical/electronics work. Heat shrink tubing can be slipped onto the cable first away from the heated portion to prevent the insulation walking back from the joint when trying to put the tubing on. Besides that, good vid!
Being an Electrician, you have the basics spot on. A couple of pointers, the heat is being drawn into your vice. The way to overcome that is to use heat-resistant neoprene covers for the jaws on your vice. The cheaper way is to use two pieces of hardwood and wet them before you heat up the lugs. If you don't know how much solder to use, fill the lug up with water, then put a scrap piece of the cable you're going to use to strip the end to insert it into the lug the excess water will spill out. Remove the cable, it will leave an amount of water in the lug. Take note of that level, that will give you the level you need to fill the lug with solder. The other point is put the heat shrink over the cable first and slide it down the cable away from any heat transfer, then slide it down and heat it up. Keep those vlogs coming.
Surprised as an electrician you find Soldered Battery lugs (Acid core no less) acceptable. The vibrations in the vehicle have a tendency to break off at the soldered joint because of the stiffness, and heat from pulling high amperage and being in the engine bay. A Hydraulic crimp is what I have always been told to use for this application. What would be your pros vs cons in your opinion of these two methods?
Great Job Jeremy! So this is how all my connections are. I've been soldering everything for years. A lot of time I will flux and pre tin the connections then crimp them and solder. Solder still wicks up and fills the joint solid. If you don't use it already look for the shrink tubing with the adhesive inside. The heat melts the adhesive and seals the wire to the connector water tight! Good stuff! Living near the ocean we have great places like West Marine where I can pick up all sorts of pre tinned connectors. Marine grade electrical distribution blocks, power disconnects, fuses, breakers etc.. All high quality stuff and it survives the winter being designed for salt water boats. BTW.. I run all my electrical through a 900A / 1200A surge disconnect. If I need to disconnect power fast it's a quick flip of the knob on it. I've seen a couple off-road vehicles go up and decided mine wouldn't be next. Keep up the videos Jeremy! The camera loves you... hahaha...
Rich Lynch Thank you for mentioning West Marine. They also have top grade marine cables in bulk rolls, that can't be beat. A little pricy, but worth it.
David Padilla. Oh I know.. my Jeep is wired with it. Good stuff! For sure it isn't cheap but when you add the term marine to anything you can bet your bippie it's not cheap! Haha..
You can also crimp the connector but make sure you have a quality crimper. I bought a hydraulic crimper because is the best way to make crimped connector. Great job Jeremy!
Unless you have a very good hydraulic crimper with a butt load of dies the manual crimpers that can be calibrated are better. The problem with affordable hydraulic crimpers (under a grand) is that often the dies are just a little too small or too large when they bottom out/finish crimping. They just don't give you enough dies to do it properly. The actual gauge of wire from one manufacturer to another varies quite a bit, you need a lot of dies to compensate for this. One die per wire size is not good enough. This ultimately results in a substandard crimp that didn't fully finish compressing all the strands in the interior of the lug (you cant see it with out cutting a crimped lug in half). Or the opposite, one that has been over crimped.
@Leopold No that is why you invest money in quality tools. A professional grade crimper can calibrate to crush thickness and won't lock you into using only one cable or lug manufacturer. The cheap die based crimpers are unable to do so and produce inferior end results anyway. There is up to a 20% variance in wire size alone.
You have explained cable lug soldering very well. Jeremy, you are an excellent teacher. Thank you. Well done! But may I add some suggestions. The youtuber 1crazynordlander has made one excellent safety point. That's to make a mechanical connection with the cable and the lug joint. Because as he/she has stated in the comments of this video, if you encounter higher than normal loads thus higher than normal amperage and higher than normal temperature would occur. This means that could melt the solder and the cable will fall out of the lug. Let me add to this. Maybe do both types of joints. Make a mechanical connection with the lug first by crimping it to the cable to prevent cable from falling off the lug if it heats up from higher than normal amperage. Then soldering the joint with rosin core solder to prevent the copper strands from oxidizing. Finally add heat shrink tubing with some adhesive, or heat resistant silicon to prevent any moisture from penetrating the joint. Also, if using cables in a environment where vibration occurs, when installing the cable, use cable ties to secure cable from any form of vibration. Then as a maintenance measure, once cables are installed. Routinely check cables and connections for any melting, wear, deterioration or damage.
Using acid core on wires is a big no no. The acid will eventually deteriorate the copper wires. Rosin core is the only thing to use on electrical wiring. Good video!
I made a milled block to fit all sizes of terminal and rounded the ends of some old punches. Make as good a termination as what you showed and cost me old tools. Hammer them down straight, then one hit back at a 45 to the sheath to set. Thanks for this one.
Yeah! Thank you for your video. I am going to tell the wlmrt guy about your video because he did a very bad job installing a new terminal to my car battery! He needs to learn about your skills and common sense laws. Many thanks again. You gave us a great lesson .
You can buy a hydraulic crimping tool which will permanently crimp the wire and you don't have to worry about how much solder and flux to use, what type of solder and flux to use, if you have enough fuel in your torch, etc etc. Hydraulic crimps are quick, easy, and permanent
I want to see more of Jeremy passing on garage knowledge please. I really enjoy the practical explanations and reasoning behind why things are preferred one way versus another.
I appreciate your enthusiasm and your pointing out an important method to avoid future problems. However, if you indeed did use acid core solder, and you did not clean the joint after soldering, the acid will stay in the joint and corrode the copper. Eventually you will get the green crusties inside your fitting.
So, there you go. Above, somebody questioned using acid core solder. Another guy replied, " don't say something is wrong without giving a reason." Me too, I've never heard of using acid core solder on electrical, for more than 50 years. I think that has been established here,
Jeremy you did a great job! Mabey we will see you do a few more episodes? I do really enjoy the videos you and Matt do together. Your banter and such really makes the episode. Keep up the vreat work!
I have always soldered my wires for everything and from what I was taught 50 years ago the flux is what makes the solder suck into a joint or connection... 100% agree with you and I'm the type of guy that would bi×$h if I was hung with a new rope... Hard to please... Great tutorial for someone new to this type of deal... Great video content and done a darn fine job doing it... And the T's are awesome if you run 2 batteries on your jeep like I do the hot side in parallel... Then just bolt the grounds to the frame... Thumbs ☝
I like that way of connecting a battery cable to the battery. I have been using those other battery connectors and after using one for my trolling motor I thought why not do this method. So they say crimping is better then solder for vibration. I personally like to do both. If it's worth doing it's worth over doing. Your solder looked like it might be am acid based. You want to use an acid free solder. Great video glad to know this method is already in use on off road vehicles. I should have done it for both tractors and the pickup. Like you said super easy to disconnect the cable and sometimes during the slow season it's better to disconnect the batteries to reduce their drain.
Great job Jeremy! I've been doing all my battery cables like this for years. I do all my connections with solder and heat shrink. I hate those little red, blue, and yellow crimp connectors. Every time I've had the taillights on a trailer quit working it's been one of those stupid little crimpits.
I agree but with a small caveat, quality crimps done with the proper tool are very good. Problem is, noone wants to pay 100 bucks for the right tool, let alone finding quality crimps. As for trailer lights in particular, they usually use the frame as a ground, I prefer to run the extra wire and never have issues.
This video should be titled "How To Make Your Own Battery Cables the Wrong Way". The solder has to meet the copper wire somewhere and it will make a rigid joint. With vibration that is where it will fail. The terminals are flared to allow some wire flex after the terminal has been properly "crimped". Also every strand is important to carry the load the current the gauge is rated at. Never clip off stragglers. The flare is not there to help you insert the wire, rather it is there to prevent damage due to vibration and when flexing the completed joint.
Nice video Jeremy. Couldn't tell it was your first. That is the same way I do mine and it is nice to see you reaffirm my method. My cables are for marine applications. This way keeps out moisture as well. Thanks!
Seen your video thank you very much it was easy AND VERY HELPFUL TO comprehend and follow your steps. THE DIFFICULT PART WAS HAVING TO WORK ON IT FOR THE FIRST TIME. MY. POSTIVE CABEL WAS CORRODED AND RUSTED. SO I had to cut the cable wire connected to the battery terminal . I was able to do it thanks too your video . The car turned on first try. It was struggling to turn on . But once I took it for a drive the power came back. I DID TEST THE BAYTERY AT AUTOZONE AND IT HAD A BAD CELL WITCH I will be replacing a new battery .
You did such a good job, that I'll be doing that tomorrow. I'm putting a bigger alternator on my '83 cj7 with a 4.3 Chev. I got to make a cable from the battery to the alternator. Maybe a 6 guage wire.
Rosin Core for electrical, acid core for plumbing. Use one of the small hose clamps to hold your stranded cable together so it can be inserted into the lug. Remove the clamp after the wire is in the lug then heat it up and push it the rest of the way in.
Great video Jeremy! Another tip would be that when you are clamping the connector in the vise, don''t put it in all the way. The vise is a huge heat sink, so it makes it a lot easier to heat up the connector if there is more distance between the end you are heating and the vise.
Man! BleepinJeeps got Nate & Jeremy now, its like daily content! good video! I'll be doing it this weekend.. i have the weak saddle type on mine right now
I love these Jeremy videos!! Hey Jeremy, quick tip, if you melt a little solder on the exposed end of that wire before you even start putting solder in the copper terminal, it will hold all those stragglers together so you don't even have to deal with them afterwards. Then just plunge it into the terminal full of melted solder and do just as you were doing and it should be good to go. Excellent video man. =)
I was thinking about that. Does the extra solder make the fit too tight? I've done this on a smaller scale (pencil width) and fully tinning the wire can ruin the fit, on the small wires that have alot more wiggle room. Just curious...
WoOsKii 1 I would say it really depends on how much solder you melt into the cable. If you just lightly tin it, it shouldn't swell very much if at all. With proper heat, the solder will wick into the center of the cable strands and it'll be just enough to hold the strands into one single chunk for easy insertion. Then, when you assemble the terminal and heat it again, the solder of the cable end will melt and the solder I the terminal will wick further into the cable filling in all the gaps all the way to the center of the cable.
@@mannys9130 That's a very good idea! Just a very little tinning on the strands of wire before you insert it into the lug should take care of any straggling wires, and the little tinning will not swell up the wire.
Great vid, J! One thing, though...I would strongly suggest NOT using acid core solder for wiring. That stuff is designed to work with somewhat less-than-clean copper pipe and should not be used for wiring as the acid flux can actually eat through the small strands of wire (leaving a green, corroded mess). For wire, you want to use rosin core or, better yet, fluxless (no core) solder paired with a flux paste like you used in the video. Cheers, dude and keep those vids coming my man!!!!
Not sure if your aware but high end heat shrink will have glue on the inside that melts when you heat it. This insure an actual seal and is superior in pretty much every way to non glue that they sell at regular auto stores! Working at a wire harness shop has its benefits, we never use anything but the glue shrink.
Great first video on your own. I think that you'd be a good teacher for an offroad driving school. I'd like to see you do more videos, kinda like the guys out west.
When test fitting the cable you can solder the cable to make it solid and if it doesn't fit you can use a file on it instead of dealing with wire strands.
I've not personally had it, but a lot of guys I know say that any kind of imperfect connection caused by things like inadequate connection surface or even simply a terminal coming loose can generate a lot of resistance and thus heat, so they say relying solely on a soldered connection is dangerous as this heat can potentially melt the solder. As a precaution, they often hit the lug with a center punch and hammer to create an indent just as a mechanical reassurance
Emery cloth to clean the fittings before you flux the fitting also helps along with having it hot enough I say this cause I solder copper every day using different types of solder
I was told by an electrician a while back that you shouldn’t use Acid core solder, you should use rosin core for electrical. Other than that it was a very informative video! Great job man!
I used to think that soldering was the best electrical connection but holding a Power Limited Technician license for wiring power limited circuits the past 15 years for communications, HVAC, irrigation and landscaping I found out that soldering connections is "Not Allowed" in the National Electric Code. Sure the NEC doesn't cover automotive wiring but the same principles apply. Only mechanical connections are allowed like crimps. I tend to agree with the NEC as heavy load will melt the solder and the cable will come loose. I think in this case a good dye punch for cables would be added assurance that the cable will not loosen under high amperage situations.
Excellent safety point 1crazynordlander. Good to know. May I add some suggestions. Maybe do both types of joints. Make a mechanical connection with the lug first by crimping it to the cable to prevent cable from falling off the lug if it heats up from higher than normal amperage. Then soldering the joint with rosin core solder ( not acid core solder), to prevent the copper strands from oxidizing. Finally add heat shrink tubing with some adhesive, or heat resistant silicon to prevent any moisture from penetrating the joint. Also, if using cables in a environment where vibration occurs, when installing the cable, use cable ties to secure cable from any form of vibration at the joint. Then as a maintenance measure, once cables are installed. Routinely check cables and connections for any sign of melting, wear, deterioration or damage.
I was a shipboard electrician at a navy Yard. Always have a good mechanical connection first. Follow up with solder (Rosin Core, never Acid Core or Acid flux) if you must to prevent contamination from entering between the strands.
Rosin core is what you want for electrical and plumbing connections. Acid core is for structural soldering of tin and such. Acid core will continue to corrode electrical connections. The rosin core flux you used probably helps neutralize some of the acid core. But if you ever seem mystery corrosion on your cable ends, it's coming from the acid based flux in the core.
Here's a good tip. I noticed that when you where using the hammer crimper, you were hammering in the middle and along the edge of the bench table surface. Next time try hammering directly over one of the bench legs. Not only will you notice that it is a lot less noisier (no vibration and echo) but more importantly, you will notice that you got a better and more solid "slug" hit.
Hey Jeremy, Great 1st video. But, acid core solder is for plumbing and can cause issues when used for electrical/electronics work. Suggest you use rosin core solder in the future.
How to bend the metal end of the cable (battery cable terminal lugs) into a perpendicular form? Like you keep it in a vase at 5:20, how to bend it, with what? Do you need a special tool? I'm afraid to brake or scratch the new expensive cable I ordered. I need to bend the positive cable end, bcs such is the original form on the alternator connection. Thank you for the film.
A tip I've used successfully is while the wires are still loose is the prime them using tinning type flux, then tighten the wires using a small hose clamp and pull the clamp off while firm only tightened. Generally this brings the wires straight together.also, intead of using a "non-conductive" electric solder, use a conductive solder due to the larger area of wire that is being connected. This is useful primarily for larger gauged wire.
I soldier my cable ends but never like that. That dip method is new to me! seems to work nicely. I don't do that dip I do a wick system. I put the cable in after clean it shit tons of flux. Then I crimp it on with a cheap hydraulic crimp tool. Then I do the wicking. Heat the bottom around the eyelet and then push in the soldier from the ring around the top of the copper. It sucks it right down and because there was lots of flux it also wicks right up behind the rubber sheath. Now I read some of the comments and it seems acid core isn't a good idea. I didn't know that. I never had a problem but I'll use rosin instead from now on anyway. So if I have no crimpers I try your way. As long as I have crimpers though I'll do my way. I love learning different ways to do stuff!! BTW Great first Video!!
I think your video was great. It is good quality with audio as well. I have zero soldering experience. And you explained it Barney style so even I can understand. The only problem I could see. Is it's a long video. Normally I look for the shortest video. But I had time today. Thanks for making it. And happy turkey day
For your first time, your presentation was outstanding. You explained and visually demonstrated the how's and why's and do's and don't. You were easy to follow and gave my confidence the boost it needed. Thanks
Just FYI - Acid core is typically used for plumbing and rosin core is for electrical/electronics work. Heat shrink tubing can be slipped onto the cable first away from the heated portion to prevent the insulation walking back from the joint when trying to put the tubing on. Besides that, good vid!
Y Mn gf tty4v13450
Being an Electrician, you have the basics spot on. A couple of pointers, the heat is being drawn into your vice. The way to overcome that is to use heat-resistant neoprene covers for the jaws on your vice. The cheaper way is to use two pieces of hardwood and wet them before you heat up the lugs. If you don't know how much solder to use, fill the lug up with water, then put a scrap piece of the cable you're going to use to strip the end to insert it into the lug the excess water will spill out. Remove the cable, it will leave an amount of water in the lug. Take note of that level, that will give you the level you need to fill the lug with solder. The other point is put the heat shrink over the cable first and slide it down the cable away from any heat transfer, then slide it down and heat it up. Keep those vlogs coming.
Surprised as an electrician you find Soldered Battery lugs (Acid core no less) acceptable. The vibrations in the vehicle have a tendency to break off at the soldered joint because of the stiffness, and heat from pulling high amperage and being in the engine bay. A Hydraulic crimp is what I have always been told to use for this application. What would be your pros vs cons in your opinion of these two methods?
Great Job Jeremy! So this is how all my connections are. I've been soldering everything for years. A lot of time I will flux and pre tin the connections then crimp them and solder. Solder still wicks up and fills the joint solid. If you don't use it already look for the shrink tubing with the adhesive inside. The heat melts the adhesive and seals the wire to the connector water tight! Good stuff! Living near the ocean we have great places like West Marine where I can pick up all sorts of pre tinned connectors. Marine grade electrical distribution blocks, power disconnects, fuses, breakers etc.. All high quality stuff and it survives the winter being designed for salt water boats. BTW.. I run all my electrical through a 900A / 1200A surge disconnect. If I need to disconnect power fast it's a quick flip of the knob on it. I've seen a couple off-road vehicles go up and decided mine wouldn't be next.
Keep up the videos Jeremy! The camera loves you... hahaha...
Rich Lynch Thank you for mentioning West Marine. They also have top grade marine cables in bulk rolls, that can't be beat. A little pricy, but worth it.
David Padilla. Oh I know.. my Jeep is wired with it. Good stuff! For sure it isn't cheap but when you add the term marine to anything you can bet your bippie it's not cheap! Haha..
You can also crimp the connector but make sure you have a quality crimper.
I bought a hydraulic crimper because is the best way to make crimped connector.
Great job Jeremy!
Unless you have a very good hydraulic crimper with a butt load of dies the manual crimpers that can be calibrated are better.
The problem with affordable hydraulic crimpers (under a grand) is that often the dies are just a little too small or too large when they bottom out/finish crimping. They just don't give you enough dies to do it properly. The actual gauge of wire from one manufacturer to another varies quite a bit, you need a lot of dies to compensate for this. One die per wire size is not good enough.
This ultimately results in a substandard crimp that didn't fully finish compressing all the strands in the interior of the lug (you cant see it with out cutting a crimped lug in half). Or the opposite, one that has been over crimped.
@Leopold No that is why you invest money in quality tools. A professional grade crimper can calibrate to crush thickness and won't lock you into using only one cable or lug manufacturer.
The cheap die based crimpers are unable to do so and produce inferior end results anyway.
There is up to a 20% variance in wire size alone.
@Leopold You won't get a "perfect" crimp with a mickey mouse die crimper. You have no way to calibrate it and check for accuracy.
good video, especially like the idea of solider wicking up the wire to stiffen the wire beyond the terminal.
You did good as or better than most videos on RUclips.
You have explained cable lug soldering very well. Jeremy, you are an excellent teacher. Thank you. Well done!
But may I add some suggestions. The youtuber 1crazynordlander has made one excellent safety point. That's to make a mechanical connection with the cable and the lug joint. Because as he/she has stated in the comments of this video, if you encounter higher than normal loads thus higher than normal amperage and higher than normal temperature would occur. This means that could melt the solder and the cable will fall out of the lug.
Let me add to this. Maybe do both types of joints.
Make a mechanical connection with the lug first by crimping it to the cable to prevent cable from falling off the lug if it heats up from higher than normal amperage.
Then soldering the joint with rosin core solder to prevent the copper strands from oxidizing.
Finally add heat shrink tubing with some adhesive, or heat resistant silicon to prevent any moisture from penetrating the joint.
Also, if using cables in a environment where vibration occurs, when installing the cable, use cable ties to secure cable from any form of vibration.
Then as a maintenance measure, once cables are installed. Routinely check cables and connections for any melting, wear, deterioration or damage.
Using acid core on wires is a big no no. The acid will eventually deteriorate the copper wires. Rosin core is the only thing to use on electrical wiring. Good video!
I made a milled block to fit all sizes of terminal and rounded the ends of some old punches. Make as good a termination as what you showed and cost me old tools. Hammer them down straight, then one hit back at a 45 to the sheath to set. Thanks for this one.
Hell yeah I'm excited about battery cables now ! Lol great video !! 👍
Yeah! Thank you for your video. I am going to tell the wlmrt guy about your video because he did a very bad job installing a new terminal to my car battery! He needs to learn about your skills and common sense laws. Many thanks again. You gave us a great lesson .
You can buy a hydraulic crimping tool which will permanently crimp the wire and you don't have to worry about how much solder and flux to use, what type of solder and flux to use, if you have enough fuel in your torch, etc etc. Hydraulic crimps are quick, easy, and permanent
ArcticAstrophysics they are sweet but not everyone has one! They are fast and easy no doubt.
I want to see more of Jeremy passing on garage knowledge please. I really enjoy the practical explanations and reasoning behind why things are preferred one way versus another.
I did the same thing with all my battery connections when I changed the post connections to Marine type. The heat shrink makes a pro look.
More of just Jeremy! Great personality and information. This is one of my favorite videos on the channel!
Great video Jeremy. You are a natural at the video makin. Felt like we were just hanging out in the shop makin cables. Please make more...
Awesome video showing how to do it with solder. I usually hammer crimp mine like a knuckle-dragger.
love videos with Jeremy. Did a good job explaining how solder behaves. At my shop we call it sweating when the solder travels where the heat goes.
I appreciate your enthusiasm and your pointing out an important method to avoid future problems. However, if you indeed did use acid core solder, and you did not clean the joint after soldering, the acid will stay in the joint and corrode the copper. Eventually you will get the green crusties inside your fitting.
So, there you go. Above, somebody questioned using acid core solder. Another guy replied, " don't say something is wrong without giving a reason."
Me too, I've never heard of using acid core solder on electrical, for more than 50 years.
I think that has been established here,
Jeremy you did a great job! Mabey we will see you do a few more episodes? I do really enjoy the videos you and Matt do together. Your banter and such really makes the episode. Keep up the vreat work!
I have always soldered my wires for everything and from what I was taught 50 years ago the flux is what makes the solder suck into a joint or connection... 100% agree with you and I'm the type of guy that would bi×$h if I was hung with a new rope... Hard to please... Great tutorial for someone new to this type of deal...
Great video content and done a darn fine job doing it... And the T's are awesome if you run 2 batteries on your jeep like I do the hot side in parallel... Then just bolt the grounds to the frame... Thumbs ☝
I like that way of connecting a battery cable to the battery. I have been using those other battery connectors and after using one for my trolling motor I thought why not do this method. So they say crimping is better then solder for vibration. I personally like to do both. If it's worth doing it's worth over doing. Your solder looked like it might be am acid based. You want to use an acid free solder. Great video glad to know this method is already in use on off road vehicles. I should have done it for both tractors and the pickup. Like you said super easy to disconnect the cable and sometimes during the slow season it's better to disconnect the batteries to reduce their drain.
Great job Jeremy! I've been doing all my battery cables like this for years. I do all my connections with solder and heat shrink. I hate those little red, blue, and yellow crimp connectors. Every time I've had the taillights on a trailer quit working it's been one of those stupid little crimpits.
I agree but with a small caveat, quality crimps done with the proper tool are very good. Problem is, noone wants to pay 100 bucks for the right tool, let alone finding quality crimps. As for trailer lights in particular, they usually use the frame as a ground, I prefer to run the extra wire and never have issues.
This video should be titled "How To Make Your Own Battery Cables the Wrong Way". The solder has to meet the copper wire somewhere and it will make a rigid joint. With vibration that is where it will fail. The terminals are flared to allow some wire flex after the terminal has been properly "crimped". Also every strand is important to carry the load the current the gauge is rated at. Never clip off stragglers. The flare is not there to help you insert the wire, rather it is there to prevent damage due to vibration and when flexing the completed joint.
Nice video Jeremy. Couldn't tell it was your first. That is the same way I do mine and it is nice to see you reaffirm my method. My cables are for marine applications. This way keeps out moisture as well. Thanks!
Jeremy is my favorite! He is a doppelganger of my favorite cousin. Same speech patterns and mannerisms!
Never use acid core solder on electrical connections. Use rosin core solder for wires.
j horton good to know. Learn something everyday!!
j horton never tell someone what to do as a piece of advice.....without explaining why......because....nobody gets nothing from it that way
Acid core can corrode the wire because it’s a much more aggressive cleaning agent while rosin core won’t because it’s pretty mild.
Good point. I'll work on that.
Cole A thanks now I'VE learned something new lol
That was great! I'm do this to all my cables now.
Your production values are good enough for us. The tutorial was fantastic. Thanks for the video.
Seen your video thank you very much it was easy AND VERY HELPFUL TO comprehend and follow your steps. THE DIFFICULT PART WAS HAVING TO WORK ON IT FOR THE FIRST TIME. MY. POSTIVE CABEL WAS CORRODED AND RUSTED. SO I had to cut the cable wire connected to the battery terminal . I was able to do it thanks too your video . The car turned on first try. It was struggling to turn on . But once I took it for a drive the power came back. I DID TEST THE BAYTERY AT AUTOZONE AND IT HAD A BAD CELL WITCH I will be replacing a new battery .
Great Job Jeremy! Thanks for sharing the knowledge! Will be filing this away for the future
You did such a good job, that I'll be doing that tomorrow. I'm putting a bigger alternator on my '83 cj7 with a 4.3 Chev. I got to make a cable from the battery to the alternator. Maybe a 6 guage wire.
Rosin Core for electrical, acid core for plumbing. Use one of the small hose clamps to hold your stranded cable together so it can be inserted into the lug. Remove the clamp after the wire is in the lug then heat it up and push it the rest of the way in.
A Jeremy RUclips channel needs to be a thing
Arthur Roy nah, I think he needs his on segment on bleepin jeep
Or just more on him here on BJ
He's already on a channel why start another one?
Well done, I agree that it is the best way to build your own cables. Great refresher thank you, Now I'll go over my rig and check all the connections.
Great video Jeremy! Another tip would be that when you are clamping the connector in the vise, don''t put it in all the way. The vise is a huge heat sink, so it makes it a lot easier to heat up the connector if there is more distance between the end you are heating and the vise.
Gil Meacham yeah your right..
Man! BleepinJeeps got Nate & Jeremy now, its like daily content! good video! I'll be doing it this weekend.. i have the weak saddle type on mine right now
Sean Savage We should make a vid while you're here and send it to them. Bleepin Jeep/Carnfardid Commando edition, heh.
hell yea dude!
4:30 Would it be easier to leave the flair on? After all is done THEN grind off the flair.
More of these tutorials.
Gareth Dazey agreed
Agreed
This is not the correct way to make cables up
@@poormansgarage443 Excellent
@@autoSRI show us how it's done bc I was just about to follow my mans bleepinjeep.
I love these Jeremy videos!! Hey Jeremy, quick tip, if you melt a little solder on the exposed end of that wire before you even start putting solder in the copper terminal, it will hold all those stragglers together so you don't even have to deal with them afterwards. Then just plunge it into the terminal full of melted solder and do just as you were doing and it should be good to go. Excellent video man. =)
Vinny Gullotta That sounds good..
I was thinking about that. Does the extra solder make the fit too tight? I've done this on a smaller scale (pencil width) and fully tinning the wire can ruin the fit, on the small wires that have alot more wiggle room. Just curious...
It's called tinning and actually a very common practice. Another great video. Now go out to the garage and get to work! 👍
WoOsKii 1 I would say it really depends on how much solder you melt into the cable. If you just lightly tin it, it shouldn't swell very much if at all. With proper heat, the solder will wick into the center of the cable strands and it'll be just enough to hold the strands into one single chunk for easy insertion. Then, when you assemble the terminal and heat it again, the solder of the cable end will melt and the solder I the terminal will wick further into the cable filling in all the gaps all the way to the center of the cable.
@@mannys9130 That's a very good idea! Just a very little tinning on the strands of wire before you insert it into the lug should take care of any straggling wires, and the little tinning will not swell up the wire.
Great vid, J!
One thing, though...I would strongly suggest NOT using acid core solder for wiring. That stuff is designed to work with somewhat less-than-clean copper pipe and should not be used for wiring as the acid flux can actually eat through the small strands of wire (leaving a green, corroded mess). For wire, you want to use rosin core or, better yet, fluxless (no core) solder paired with a flux paste like you used in the video.
Cheers, dude and keep those vids coming my man!!!!
Not sure if your aware but high end heat shrink will have glue on the inside that melts when you heat it. This insure an actual seal and is superior in pretty much every way to non glue that they sell at regular auto stores! Working at a wire harness shop has its benefits, we never use anything but the glue shrink.
Connor Doll yep..
Do you need to lubricate and clean the connector inside before tightening?
Great first video on your own. I think that you'd be a good teacher for an offroad driving school. I'd like to see you do more videos, kinda like the guys out west.
Great video, I even add a little stuff called scotchkote over the heat shrink. Looks ugly but adds another layer of protection!!
My jeep left me on the road for this exact problem today. Thank for the great video👍
When test fitting the cable you can solder the cable to make it solid and if it doesn't fit you can use a file on it instead of dealing with wire strands.
I really like these videos that Jeremey has been making, he should make more! Great job with the video Jeremy!
Great job jermery. Just got a dual battery kit I will be making my own cables for sure.
I've not personally had it, but a lot of guys I know say that any kind of imperfect connection caused by things like inadequate connection surface or even simply a terminal coming loose can generate a lot of resistance and thus heat, so they say relying solely on a soldered connection is dangerous as this heat can potentially melt the solder.
As a precaution, they often hit the lug with a center punch and hammer to create an indent just as a mechanical reassurance
A STAR is born! Well done!
Jeremy you did a great job on the making of this video.
U are the man great job and appreciations from Denmark thanks for sharing this with us. U are very positive and great attitude 🙏👍
Emery cloth to clean the fittings before you flux the fitting also helps along with having it hot enough I say this cause I solder copper every day using different types of solder
Hey bro, it's awesome seeing you take over Matt's shop like that - haha. I hope to see you do more videos!
I was told by an electrician a while back that you shouldn’t use Acid core solder, you should use rosin core for electrical. Other than that it was a very informative video! Great job man!
great video jeremy, great info for all who watch, i usually make my own lugs,soldering is the best connection ,godbless
Great job man! I'm a lug crusher and after learning this I'm not going back!
pattyb593 right!!
Voilà!. You did it. First video, well done, i hope it is not the last.
Hell I wished he’d do a spot on the channel feel like we could learn a lot from this feller
Cool man ! Go for it. Sure there is plenty knowledge you can share with us. Thanks from Scotland
make your own channel. your very knowledgable and easy and fun to watch. great job
Great video. That is exactly how I have been doing it for 40 years. Except we didn’t have shrink tube back then.
Did very good for your first time compared to every other new youtuber I’ve ever seen you did great
Good job. I definitely learned a few things I'll use when I "Add a Battery" to my boat
You did well for recording by yourself! I'm going to follow your tutorial when I make new cables for the Wife's LJ.
I'm definitely doing this when I install my amp so I can splice in my extra cable. Great video
Good informative video, you should do more of these kind of videos. Mat has taught you well. 10/10
I used to think that soldering was the best electrical connection but holding a Power Limited Technician license for wiring power limited circuits the past 15 years for communications, HVAC, irrigation and landscaping I found out that soldering connections is "Not Allowed" in the National Electric Code. Sure the NEC doesn't cover automotive wiring but the same principles apply. Only mechanical connections are allowed like crimps. I tend to agree with the NEC as heavy load will melt the solder and the cable will come loose. I think in this case a good dye punch for cables would be added assurance that the cable will not loosen under high amperage situations.
Excellent safety point 1crazynordlander. Good to know. May I add some suggestions.
Maybe do both types of joints. Make a mechanical connection with the lug first by crimping it to the cable to prevent cable from falling off the lug if it heats up from higher than normal amperage.
Then soldering the joint with rosin core solder ( not acid core solder), to prevent the copper strands from oxidizing.
Finally add heat shrink tubing with some adhesive, or heat resistant silicon to prevent any moisture from penetrating the joint.
Also, if using cables in a environment where vibration occurs, when installing the cable, use cable ties to secure cable from any form of vibration at the joint.
Then as a maintenance measure, once cables are installed. Routinely check cables and connections for any sign of melting, wear, deterioration or damage.
I was a shipboard electrician at a navy Yard. Always have a good mechanical connection first. Follow up with solder (Rosin Core, never Acid Core or Acid flux) if you must to prevent contamination from entering between the strands.
Great job for your first self video
This is just what i needed right now. Killer video bud.
Rosin core is what you want for electrical and plumbing connections. Acid core is for structural soldering of tin and such. Acid core will continue to corrode electrical connections. The rosin core flux you used probably helps neutralize some of the acid core. But if you ever seem mystery corrosion on your cable ends, it's coming from the acid based flux in the core.
Great job man, seem like a super cool guy. I owe you a beer!
jjthesavage Heck Yeah!! Sounds Good Haha!
Agree! Jeremy's got some great tips
Here's a good tip. I noticed that when you where using the hammer crimper, you were hammering in the middle and along the edge of the bench table surface. Next time try hammering directly over one of the bench legs. Not only will you notice that it is a lot less noisier (no vibration and echo) but more importantly, you will notice that you got a better and more solid "slug" hit.
I don't care what anyone says that was a great video and you did it just fine
Great video. I wouldn't change a thing. I really like the spinning metal BleepinJeep logo at the end, nice touch.
Good job! You're a natural in front of the camera.
Great video, very informative, I enjoyed it. Matt should be proud.
Hey Jeremy, Great 1st video. But, acid core solder is for plumbing and can cause issues when used for electrical/electronics work. Suggest you use rosin core solder in the future.
How to bend the metal end of the cable (battery cable terminal lugs) into a perpendicular form? Like you keep it in a vase at 5:20, how to bend it, with what? Do you need a special tool? I'm afraid to brake or scratch the new expensive cable I ordered. I need to bend the positive cable end, bcs such is the original form on the alternator connection. Thank you for the film.
This guy should take over the channel
You do you boo boo, keep em comin! Having some trouble with my battery connection right now so I kinda needed this
A tip I've used successfully is while the wires are still loose is the prime them using tinning type flux, then tighten the wires using a small hose clamp and pull the clamp off while firm only tightened. Generally this brings the wires straight together.also, intead of using a "non-conductive" electric solder, use a conductive solder due to the larger area of wire that is being connected. This is useful primarily for larger gauged wire.
I soldier my cable ends but never like that. That dip method is new to me! seems to work nicely.
I don't do that dip I do a wick system. I put the cable in after clean it shit tons of flux. Then I crimp it on with a cheap hydraulic crimp tool.
Then I do the wicking. Heat the bottom around the eyelet and then push in the soldier from the ring around the top of the copper.
It sucks it right down and because there was lots of flux it also wicks right up behind the rubber sheath.
Now I read some of the comments and it seems acid core isn't a good idea. I didn't know that. I never had a problem but I'll use rosin instead from now on anyway.
So if I have no crimpers I try your way. As long as I have crimpers though I'll do my way.
I love learning different ways to do stuff!!
BTW Great first Video!!
Jeremy you do a fine job explaining and showing how to fix cables so they last.
C'mon dude, dont underestimate yourself. great vid. Matt was busy at Bantam!!
that's just how I create my terminals, never had a failure with one yet. great job keep up the good work. Jeremy you did an excellent tutorial.
awesome job Jeremy ! love the production skills , more like this soon !!
Great job on the video! It was educational and timely! I was planning on doing my own wiring today!
Great video. Good job. I didn’t know the cables were so important but I’m gonna redo all mine now! Thanks
Great video. Was about to try to replace my cables.
I was a little hard on you last time but you did a great job explaining everything this time.
Can I use a 4guage positive wire from a set of jumper cables as a main battery cable wire that goes to my starter???
I think your video was great. It is good quality with audio as well. I have zero soldering experience. And you explained it Barney style so even I can understand. The only problem I could see. Is it's a long video. Normally I look for the shortest video. But I had time today. Thanks for making it. And happy turkey day
Great job Jeremy. Informative and straight forward. Good content.
Good job on the video. Thanks for posting. Pretty much the way I was taught many years ago. Back when we used LEAD baby. Take care
great job Jeremy. be nice to see some more of that scrambler
FIRST TIME ?!?
AWESOME JOB.
Thank you. I am going to extend cables for my trolling motor and will terminate them using this method. Appreciate the video. Great help.