Know this is kinda way late just found your video. But whenever your working with lots of body filler or fiberglass. Before starting put baby power all over your hands and lower arms. Learned this tip building boats and doing body work over the years the powder fills your pores and wont irritate or allow the glass strands into your pores. Iike your work keep it up man👍
Baby powder and panty hose on the arms. The powder will seal your pores and dry the sweat as it starts and the pantyhose will actually catch the stray fibers. Used to do this working on jet ski hulls
i guess i was comin way late too sir yea the baby powder trick haha i put a handful of baby powder one time and my cousins were helpin me i said here dnt forget the powder an smacked him in the neck baby powder and laughing everywhere
Awesome video! Probably the best DIY vid for this type of enclosure on RUclips! Your explanation of everything down to washing off you skin, was perfect. I feel the same way about terminal cups! They leak air so bad! I use copper bolts, washers, rubber washers with some silicone. Put an nut on it and you have two bolts sticking out to wire it any way you wish. If it's a dvc sub, I'll usually put four bolts. I know the stick out slightly but you can cut them short and put them where ever is best.....like on your enclosure here. To me, it's just proven best to give the best seal. Plus, when you use a ring connector, it's at 90 degree angle with NO stress on the wire! even the hot glue and wire tie method will give you a bend. I'm not telling you you're wrong ONE BIT!!!! So please, don't get upset at me. Someone suggested this to me years ago and I'm so grateful and try to pass it on. Some times it's truly the smallest things that make the biggest difference in car audio!!! Keep doing these DIY vids.....I learned new things and other ways to improve old techniques. OMG.....the glue outgassing for vinyl tip!!!! GOLDEN!!! Thanks bro!
I've thought about bolts just havent done it on a build like this yet. Your suggestion is the way to go when more wattage (1,000+) is being applied because you'll have to go 12 gauge minimum on the wiring. Thanks for watching and giving those tips!
Greetings from San Diego. Learning many things via your channel. I will be buying my first “Zed” soon at 63 years of age, (I know, ridiculous at my age). I bodysurf big waves so if I flame out on the roads or the sea, at least a smile was on my face. A friend of mine has a 2006 base unlike your enthusiast but with very similar mods. I will be buying a manual enthusiast, 2007-2008 because of that HR motor. Keep these great vids coming!✌️
Great tips, I have always wanted to do this and remove my 8 inch rear deck sub for a 10inch trunk pod, great idea using a full face front piece of woof versus the dowel and ring method.. great install!!
Your welcome! Keep in mind there are several ways to do it and I decided to take a simple approach and minimize how much routering I would have to do to shape the wood.
The box and sub are slightly getting over the false floor. I don’t that it still opens without doing some yoga with the false floor. But the tips and tricks were much helpful and some of ur comments too “baby powder advice”. Overall a nice video. 👍🏼
i hope you can do a video on how to properly install a second or multiple batteries. i cant find a good informative video like how you do it here. thanks for the tip on the vinyl, i was planning to wrap a box i recently made with it in a few weeks. keep it up anthony!
@@AnthonyJ350 thanks anthony, im still confused with the fuse setups. if i have a 250 amp fuse in the engine bay, what size fuse do i use to hook up before the second battery and what fuse to use from the second battery to the amp. im looking to push around 2000 watts at most, i have a sundown x12 and looking to get an orion 1500.1dz or the memphis prx 1500.1 wired to 1 ohm and a 300 watt 4 channel amp for the mids and highs. i was told to use a 200 amps fuse to hook up before the second battery and use a 150 amps for the 1500.1 and a 100 amps for the 4 channel. i dont know is thats correct
I'd recommend using threaded inserts in your enclosures. That way you don't need to worry about the bit slipping out and possibly damaging the sub. Plus, in case you need to remove the sub for some reason, you can do so and replace it as many times as you want without damaging the enclosure
Man that looks super clean! I know if I'm ever in the Vancouver area and need car audio work done pretty much coming to you guys for any of it. Keep up with the great work~
Nice job brother 👍.. I really liked the way the woofer sweetened the base notes... Not at all harsh.. but it did have the perfect thud.. Love from India..😍😍 I will surely do something like this for my Ecosport. Can u please give me the equipment you used for this build..??
Has no body put a battery through a cone because they dont use an impact and or bits that dont slip(EG #2 square drive aka Locking Recess screws. ) also you can shift every drill anymore using the clutch, tap holes first, etc. Theres no excuse for that mistake other than you where skipping steps, junky material, or lack of tool experience. That being said I slip all the time. Always preventable.
@@joshhuoabski3278 thankfully I learned from someone else. I always put my hand over the foam so it's extremely difficult to poke the foam. I have poked my hand once. I'll take that over a damaged $300 sub any day.
I use a cheese grader to shape when it’s not hard yet that way I don’t gum up sandpaper. I also do a lot more layers of glass. I use an Orbital DA and air to do the rest of my shaping. After years of bodywork it’s so much faster for me. I rarely need to sand by hand.
Hey, this video inspired me to actually try myself, so far I’ve already began making the fiberglass mold on the inside, but I’m just wondering, when you wrapped the carpet on for the first time to kind of complete the structure, did you wrap the whole thing or just the front? Great video though man, it’s helped me out a ton, I appreciate it.
Very nice to see a good real fabrication video from you again! Lots of good tips for someone trying this for the first time (not me). How did you fasten the enclosure to the car?
How about the internal volume of the enclosure ? There s a minimal required enclosure volume in accordance with the speaker diameter. Have you calculated it ? Does it sound good?
How do you work out the volume of the enclosure? I’ve always understood that specific subs are designed for specific enclosure volumes. Or am I missing something?
Measure out the rough area you'll be occupying do the calculations and get close to what the sub needs. JL Audio subs from W3 and lower are so forgiving, you can just build it to fit and it'll sound good if it's a sealed enclosure.
really good tips. I'm trying to plan out my 2012 Subaru Forester plan but having a hard time. I'm going to be running three amps. 1 for rear door speakers and 1 for cargo space in the back where I have made enclosures for two 6" kicker subs. Then I have a mono amp for the 10" sub. The two in the cargo area (6" subs) i built from fiberglass. No where I have seen that you should add sound dampening to the inside. I did anyway since it made sense. I'm glad you added it. But I'm trying to make the 6" subs not visible. Do you have any suggestions for that? I'm a new subscriber so be easy on me!
Are you going to amplify the front stage as well? The only way I can think to hide the 6"woofer is to build a panel like a front and top with a grille for the subs to hide behind.
@@AnthonyJ350 Yeah, for sure. I'll have some JBL 6" door speakers but I can't remember the model number for them. I have a 10" sub in the very back but I had to remove my spare tire, which I do not like. I may try to throw the spare back in and make a fiberglass overlay formed around the tire to reintroduce the 10" sub. I was envisioning somehow making the 6" woofers point downward but kind of curling back from the front. I don't think I would know how to do that but I might draw something up.
I build up a mesh mould, then tape it, then a layer of glass and go to the beach or other sandy spot, bury it flush to support the shape and fill it with measured water. Obviously the face board changes that a bit, but allows you to know how close you are and test fit everything before starting on the real thing.
Want to get this done with two JL 8W3's and run my entire system with a JL xd 1000/5. Have Hertz Hi-Energy 6x9 in the doors and 6.5 on the rear deck...with three 3.5 Kicker speakers in the dash and two in the rear doors.Car is a Chrysler 300c.Do you approve? Excellent job by the way.Well executed and well explained. Just trying to keep as much trunk space as possible.
@@AnthonyJ350 Yes I'm going to have a shop do the work.Stinger Roadkill is what was used in a Beats subwoofer enclosure, but I'm not getting any good bass from that.Thats why I'm gonna go with the fiberglass enclosure to see if that gives me more bass fill.
This one is pressure fitted. But I've nutserted the sub frame on other vehicles and used a bolt and washer from the inside of the enclosure with the sub removed.
Is it not usually glued or more stabilized.. the one I had done is pressure fit they put an 8” in front of the original 8”.. and it seems it could be reinforced… what should I do?
@@scottdohemann3715 If you glue the enclosure in, how do you take it out to service something on the car? You could make a bracket and tap into it or run a nutsert. The one in this car was a super tight fit.
I don't think vinyl would work well, the glass won't absorb into anything. We find fleece works awesome for doing stretches, but we still use fiber mat to build strength.
Awesome build. How would you recommend to fix the enclosure to the vehicle without just drilling random holes that can leak air? Trying to do a stealth build in the spare tire area and want to fix an enclosure to the frame itself so it does not move. Thanks and subbed
Superb. What do you charge as a shop, to do the amp install, the hoe much to build the box? How much does it cost for the parts and product needed yo build the box, and how long would u say is the total time it took you to build it. Its hard to tell as its on RUclips and all the video editing. I was thinking about doing g thus myself,, but im not very handy. U r s pro, can s novice do it yourself, or is it too difficult? What do you think? Thanks! Jeff5 Thanks
Nice video!! I'm definitely doing this. One question us the connection part. Did you still have to drill a hole to get the sub wire out? If so how did you seal it? If not how was in connected? Im confused.
We’re you trying to achieve any specific volume? Also I wonder if there is an equation for the volume of a trunk to calculate how much sub enclosure is optimal? Maybe like a percentage of the trunk space? Let me know if I’m geeking out too hard!
I took a rough measurement what a rectangular box would be to get a ballpark. But for the most part I was just trying to make it fit and look good. The JL subs are so forgiving with small amounts of airspace.
Sorry, but that's poor job. How do you know the internal volume, just guessing??? How did u mount the box? The mounting hole for the sub top appears to be missing or looks like its going to leak air. If that sub had a normal screw pattern the tops screws have no wood to screw into. The amp appears to be mounted to the carpet. Not impressed.
Plastic substrate glue to the floor and the amp mounts to that. The enclosure is nut and bolted with a large washers to distribute the load to the cars inner sheet metal. The enclosure doesn't leak I assure you. Message me on Instagram and I'll try to get a sound clip from the owner.
Here's a Tundra built on the same principal. ruclips.net/video/smEtTg61hXk/видео.html I understand you don't like it. So can you show how you built yours so I can see a better way? Also how much time does it take you to build one, a day and a half?
@@jameselam8263 You just adjust the signal in and gain and it's fine. Depending on the amp you can wire the sub to 4 ohms reducing the power of the amp as an option.
However at the harshest use a brass brush, plastic is better. Or no brush at all. Air! When you brush it you remove the grit also creating paper. Useless paper
@@AnthonyJ350 Thanks for the reply. Long shot here, but if I wanted one shipped to the states anyway you could mold one to an '15 altima? Ever since JL stopped making a bunch of their models its been tough.
Watch this working on Woods Routers scary me.. One little slipped No more little piggy... ahhhhhh.. you should put plastic first behind masking tape the fiberglass won't soaking into the car carpet.. I built regular and fiberglass boxes all the time ahhhhhh...
Use torx screws and a t20 bit, no kick out when screwing in. It's the only kind of screw I use now, 100 times better than phillips screws. Also, use a screw guard on your drill, it goes down over the screw and prevents you slipping off the screw. I don't care how you hold the drill, I would NEVER risk that. Open sub, no screw guard, phillips... Yeah nah. There are better screws and better ways to ensure you don't puncture that sub.
@@AnthonyJ350 Just the enclosure.. He brought over a custom one they built for another car that goes under the seat and said that one cost like 5k so if i want a custom one i should be prepared for it to be expensive. He did say the shops owner would give me a more exact quote when he comes in on Tuesday but still if its anywhere near 5k thats crazy
@@benberk8541 A lot of variables here. What kind of vehicle, where are you putting it and tooling used to accomplish the job. If it takes 5 business days to build, $5K is legit.
@@AnthonyJ350 I have been surfing in RUclips since a couple of weeks 2-3 hrs on a daily basis in search of a a perfect base and here is where I am stopping my search.. @AnthonyJ350.. thanks bro😍👍 If you can, plz share the equipments used for the build, so that I can try it in my Ecosport. I am planning to dig deep into my sideways opening trunk door, sound treat it and plant a 10 inch subwoofer into it..
You can for sure, the JL Audio Stealthboxes retail around $1000 with a sub woofer, depending on the vehicle of course. If they don't make one you'll have to build it like we did.
Why's that? Nominal power rating is 400 watts, we gave it a 600 watt RMS amp. Here's the spec sheet www.jlaudio.com/products/12tw3-d4-car-audio-tw3-subwoofers-92185
Know this is kinda way late just found your video. But whenever your working with lots of body filler or fiberglass. Before starting put baby power all over your hands and lower arms. Learned this tip building boats and doing body work over the years the powder fills your pores and wont irritate or allow the glass strands into your pores. Iike your work keep it up man👍
That's an awesome tip! I'm going to try that next time!
Baby powder and panty hose on the arms. The powder will seal your pores and dry the sweat as it starts and the pantyhose will actually catch the stray fibers. Used to do this working on jet ski hulls
i guess i was comin way late too sir yea the baby powder trick haha i put a handful of baby powder one time and my cousins were helpin me i said here dnt forget the powder an smacked him in the neck baby powder and laughing everywhere
You also invest in a couple tyvek suit as well
With this video i feel comfident as an og fiberboard box builder to tackle my first fiberglass flush install! Thanx for a great tutorial fr
So glad you found the video helpful! Please let us know how it turned out!
Awesome video! Probably the best DIY vid for this type of enclosure on RUclips!
Your explanation of everything down to washing off you skin, was perfect.
I feel the same way about terminal cups! They leak air so bad!
I use copper bolts, washers, rubber washers with some silicone. Put an nut on it and you have two bolts sticking out to wire it any way you wish. If it's a dvc sub, I'll usually put four bolts. I know the stick out slightly but you can cut them short and put them where ever is best.....like on your enclosure here.
To me, it's just proven best to give the best seal. Plus, when you use a ring connector, it's at 90 degree angle with NO stress on the wire! even the hot glue and wire tie method will give you a bend.
I'm not telling you you're wrong ONE BIT!!!! So please, don't get upset at me.
Someone suggested this to me years ago and I'm so grateful and try to pass it on.
Some times it's truly the smallest things that make the biggest difference in car audio!!!
Keep doing these DIY vids.....I learned new things and other ways to improve old techniques.
OMG.....the glue outgassing for vinyl tip!!!! GOLDEN!!!
Thanks bro!
I've thought about bolts just havent done it on a build like this yet. Your suggestion is the way to go when more wattage (1,000+) is being applied because you'll have to go 12 gauge minimum on the wiring. Thanks for watching and giving those tips!
Greetings from San Diego. Learning many things via your channel. I will be buying my first “Zed” soon at 63 years of age, (I know, ridiculous at my age). I bodysurf big waves so if I flame out on the roads or the sea, at least a smile was on my face. A friend of mine has a 2006 base unlike your enthusiast but with very similar mods. I will be buying a manual enthusiast, 2007-2008 because of that HR motor. Keep these great vids coming!✌️
You will do it 💪💪💪..
Awesome!!!
Such an incredibly clean installation!
Thank you for watching!
Great video, Im about to build a box for my UTV and this had all the info I was looking for.
Glad the video helped you 🙂
Great tips, I have always wanted to do this and remove my 8 inch rear deck sub for a 10inch trunk pod, great idea using a full face front piece of woof versus the dowel and ring method.. great install!!
Thanks for watching!
That's so clean! Looks factory
Thanks!
You are a sub woofer enclosure artist Anthony. Nice build
Thank you!
Thanks for the video. I have always wondered how these were built.
Your welcome! Keep in mind there are several ways to do it and I decided to take a simple approach and minimize how much routering I would have to do to shape the wood.
The box and sub are slightly getting over the false floor. I don’t that it still opens without doing some yoga with the false floor. But the tips and tricks were much helpful and some of ur comments too “baby powder advice”.
Overall a nice video. 👍🏼
Thanks for watching!
Good job! I am now planning on making a enclosure for the rear corner of the Z for a small 10 inch. This is going to really help!
Can't wait to see it!
how did it come out ? i’m going nuts trying to find a good setup for my z33 also
i hope you can do a video on how to properly install a second or multiple batteries. i cant find a good informative video like how you do it here. thanks for the tip on the vinyl, i was planning to wrap a box i recently made with it in a few weeks. keep it up anthony!
Yup, I have this video ruclips.net/video/P8U9djm9_l8/видео.html
Excellent suggestion @rowboyto!
@@AnthonyJ350 thanks anthony, im still confused with the fuse setups. if i have a 250 amp fuse in the engine bay, what size fuse do i use to hook up before the second battery and what fuse to use from the second battery to the amp. im looking to push around 2000 watts at most, i have a sundown x12 and looking to get an orion 1500.1dz or the memphis prx 1500.1 wired to 1 ohm and a 300 watt 4 channel amp for the mids and highs.
i was told to use a 200 amps fuse to hook up before the second battery and use a 150 amps for the 1500.1 and a 100 amps for the 4 channel. i dont know is thats correct
Beautiful job guys. Very professional.
Thanks for watching!
I'd recommend using threaded inserts in your enclosures. That way you don't need to worry about the bit slipping out and possibly damaging the sub. Plus, in case you need to remove the sub for some reason, you can do so and replace it as many times as you want without damaging the enclosure
Thanks for the comment!
Awesome video the system sounds amazing
Thank you!
Man that looks super clean! I know if I'm ever in the Vancouver area and need car audio work done pretty much coming to you guys for any of it. Keep up with the great work~
Thank you!
Nice job brother 👍..
I really liked the way the woofer sweetened the base notes... Not at all harsh.. but it did have the perfect thud..
Love from India..😍😍
I will surely do something like this for my Ecosport.
Can u please give me the equipment you used for this build..??
Thanks! I used an Audio Control LC2i, JL Audio XD600 and a JL Audio TW312 thin sub woofer.
You’re about 15 years too late on the drill battery tip. I ran a drill through my w6 on my first install.
Sorry man, I should have been more prompt :p
Has no body put a battery through a cone because they dont use an impact and or bits that dont slip(EG #2 square drive aka Locking Recess screws. ) also you can shift every drill anymore using the clutch, tap holes first, etc. Theres no excuse for that mistake other than you where skipping steps, junky material, or lack of tool experience. That being said I slip all the time. Always preventable.
@@joshhuoabski3278 thankfully I learned from someone else. I always put my hand over the foam so it's extremely difficult to poke the foam. I have poked my hand once. I'll take that over a damaged $300 sub any day.
Looks good like OEM. Get the grill for the TW3 before it got scratch..
Yup, we had a grille on order, it just didn't make it to the video. Thanks for watching!
I use a cheese grader to shape when it’s not hard yet that way I don’t gum up sandpaper. I also do a lot more layers of glass. I use an Orbital DA and air to do the rest of my shaping. After years of bodywork it’s so much faster for me. I rarely need to sand by hand.
Great tips!
Great Tutorial! love it
Glad you liked it!
Wow this looks amazing, unreal job! Did the customer experience any trunk rattle with that setup? I'm in the process of doing the same with my Q50.
Virtually no rattle. Customer loved how much bass there was
@@AnthonyJ350 love to hear it, thanks for the fast response! 🙏🏼
Hey, this video inspired me to actually try myself, so far I’ve already began making the fiberglass mold on the inside, but I’m just wondering, when you wrapped the carpet on for the first time to kind of complete the structure, did you wrap the whole thing or just the front? Great video though man, it’s helped me out a ton, I appreciate it.
I just wrap the edges to complete the front.
Great job on the enclosure! But golf clubs in the trunk+Sub without a grill = Return business ;)
We actually installed a grille a week later. It just didn't come in time and I didn't mention it. Thanks for holding me accountable though.
Very nice to see a good real fabrication video from you again! Lots of good tips for someone trying this for the first time (not me). How did you fasten the enclosure to the car?
It's just pressure fitted in. It's super tight because of that top carpet in the interior
Can you glue it in???
Will it still work well
not bad but to make it perfect you should add JL grill sgr-10tw3
We did afterwards. It just didn't come in time for the video.
great tutorial 👌
Thank you!
How about the internal volume of the enclosure ? There s a minimal required enclosure volume in accordance with the speaker diameter. Have you calculated it ? Does it sound good?
It sounds excellent
How do you work out the volume of the enclosure? I’ve always understood that specific subs are designed for specific enclosure volumes. Or am I missing something?
Measure out the rough area you'll be occupying do the calculations and get close to what the sub needs. JL Audio subs from W3 and lower are so forgiving, you can just build it to fit and it'll sound good if it's a sealed enclosure.
really good tips. I'm trying to plan out my 2012 Subaru Forester plan but having a hard time. I'm going to be running three amps. 1 for rear door speakers and 1 for cargo space in the back where I have made enclosures for two 6" kicker subs. Then I have a mono amp for the 10" sub. The two in the cargo area (6" subs) i built from fiberglass. No where I have seen that you should add sound dampening to the inside. I did anyway since it made sense. I'm glad you added it. But I'm trying to make the 6" subs not visible. Do you have any suggestions for that? I'm a new subscriber so be easy on me!
Are you going to amplify the front stage as well? The only way I can think to hide the 6"woofer is to build a panel like a front and top with a grille for the subs to hide behind.
To kind of give you an idea, here is a panel I built to hide the enclosure. You would be making small ones ruclips.net/video/sOntyBeJ_2Y/видео.html
@@AnthonyJ350 Yeah, for sure. I'll have some JBL 6" door speakers but I can't remember the model number for them. I have a 10" sub in the very back but I had to remove my spare tire, which I do not like. I may try to throw the spare back in and make a fiberglass overlay formed around the tire to reintroduce the 10" sub.
I was envisioning somehow making the 6" woofers point downward but kind of curling back from the front. I don't think I would know how to do that but I might draw something up.
love this, I'm going to try it. If you were to do the same speaker on the other side would that work or would the bass cancel out?
You can for sure, try to put an angle on them to help avoid sound cancelation.
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it!
I did all this stuff exact what he and others did. Still the bass is almost dead and negligible. Can anyone suggest or help ?
How much power are you giving the sub woofer and where are you getting signal from?
Great video and clean work man. How did you figure out the internal enclosure volume?
Setups like this I measure the general space like a box. If it's close I just build it to fit.
I build up a mesh mould, then tape it, then a layer of glass and go to the beach or other sandy spot, bury it flush to support the shape and fill it with measured water. Obviously the face board changes that a bit, but allows you to know how close you are and test fit everything before starting on the real thing.
Awesome video. I'm definatly at subscriber now.
That's so much for subscribing! I'm stuck at home so I'll be putting out a bunch of basic info that will hopefully help people. Stay safe out there!
Use a cheese grader initially once tacky. Sand paper and a wire brush take too long
Great tip!
Thank you
Want to get this done with two JL 8W3's and run my entire system with a JL xd 1000/5. Have Hertz Hi-Energy 6x9 in the doors and 6.5 on the rear deck...with three 3.5 Kicker speakers in the dash and two in the rear doors.Car is a Chrysler 300c.Do you approve? Excellent job by the way.Well executed and well explained. Just trying to keep as much trunk space as possible.
Ya that totally makes sense. Make sure to install sound deadening as well.
@@AnthonyJ350 Yes I'm going to have a shop do the work.Stinger Roadkill is what was used in a Beats subwoofer enclosure, but I'm not getting any good bass from that.Thats why I'm gonna go with the fiberglass enclosure to see if that gives me more bass fill.
How did you mount/secure it to the vehicle?
This one is pressure fitted. But I've nutserted the sub frame on other vehicles and used a bolt and washer from the inside of the enclosure with the sub removed.
Clean install man! Do you remember off hand what color wires you taped into at the amp for power and ground to run to the LC2i?
Thanks! Sorry I don't remember, you'll have to test.
AnthonyJ350 no biggie maybe I will be able to find the wiring diagram thanks for the response!
Did you glue the whole thing to the trunk? Or is it just tight fit in the enclosure
It's just pressure fit in
Is it not usually glued or more stabilized.. the one I had done is pressure fit they put an 8” in front of the original 8”.. and it seems it could be reinforced… what should I do?
@@scottdohemann3715 If you glue the enclosure in, how do you take it out to service something on the car?
You could make a bracket and tap into it or run a nutsert. The one in this car was a super tight fit.
What grit sandpaper are you using to sand the bindo glass smooth?
80 grit
Gostei bem explicado valeu
Thanks for the comment
I hold the screws till its done so if it slips drill bit goes into finger not a big deal teaches u to not slip fast too
Everyone has their own way.
Quick question can you use other fabrics like vinyl instead of fiberglass sheets when fiberglassing a subwoofer enclosure
I don't think vinyl would work well, the glass won't absorb into anything. We find fleece works awesome for doing stretches, but we still use fiber mat to build strength.
i wonder if a 15" would fit in there???
I don't think so
Awesome build. How would you recommend to fix the enclosure to the vehicle without just drilling random holes that can leak air? Trying to do a stealth build in the spare tire area and want to fix an enclosure to the frame itself so it does not move.
Thanks and subbed
You can install nutserts into the floor and attach a metal bracket to the enclosure on the bottom and bolt it to the floor.
@@AnthonyJ350 Awesome. Thanks for the quick reply!
Lovely
Thanks John!
Superb. What do you charge as a shop, to do the amp install, the hoe much to build the box? How much does it cost for the parts and product needed yo build the box, and how long would u say is the total time it took you to build it. Its hard to tell as its on RUclips and all the video editing. I was thinking about doing g thus myself,, but im not very handy. U r s pro, can s novice do it yourself, or is it too difficult? What do you think?
Thanks! Jeff5
Thanks
It depends on how comfortable you are with working with tools and chemicals.
how do you guesstimate the cubic volume of a box like this? both in the design stage and at the finish for sound quality
Measure it out like a rectangular box and see how close you are to the sub requirements.
Nice video!! I'm definitely doing this. One question us the connection part. Did you still have to drill a hole to get the sub wire out? If so how did you seal it? If not how was in connected? Im confused.
I just drill a hole through and reseal with butyl. I put a 2 pin trailer connector on the outside so you can't mix up positive and negative.
@@AnthonyJ350 got it thanks that's easy enough lol
If you were to coat the inside of a subwoofer box with concrete would the subwoofer box not flex at all that
I would just use Srandartplast Bomb Aero material instead.
Could you do a 12" enclosed subbox for a 2017-2019 convertible mustang ill pay for shipping the coup version won't fit 😩
Check out JL Audio Stealthboxes
nice work! subbed
Thank you for watching!
Pun intended?
Nice job 👍 just a question where's the Grill lol 😉
It was on order and didn't make it to the video.
Very nice
Thanks!
What type of caulk did you use when running the speaker wire through to seal the enclosure?
3M
@@AnthonyJ350 thanks boss. Great video 👌
@@lensacc1 No problem!
We’re you trying to achieve any specific volume? Also I wonder if there is an equation for the volume of a trunk to calculate how much sub enclosure is optimal? Maybe like a percentage of the trunk space? Let me know if I’m geeking out too hard!
I took a rough measurement what a rectangular box would be to get a ballpark. But for the most part I was just trying to make it fit and look good. The JL subs are so forgiving with small amounts of airspace.
You can make a form and when it is ready fill it with water to see cubic meters and then choose an appropriate subwoofer.
how much was the job specifically??
It was about $1,200
Will this work with a ported design?
It can if the volume is correct. You'll have to figure out a port that won't make too much noise.
Sorry, but that's poor job. How do you know the internal volume, just guessing??? How did u mount the box? The mounting hole for the sub top appears to be missing or looks like its going to leak air. If that sub had a normal screw pattern the tops screws have no wood to screw into. The amp appears to be mounted to the carpet. Not impressed.
Plastic substrate glue to the floor and the amp mounts to that. The enclosure is nut and bolted with a large washers to distribute the load to the cars inner sheet metal.
The enclosure doesn't leak I assure you. Message me on Instagram and I'll try to get a sound clip from the owner.
Similar principals I used to build this one.
ruclips.net/video/mVqQ-1QhoKQ/видео.html
The 350Z enclosure is 5 parts but here you can see how it looks unfinished ruclips.net/video/vvUnupL3bLc/видео.html
Here's a Tundra built on the same principal.
ruclips.net/video/smEtTg61hXk/видео.html
I understand you don't like it. So can you show how you built yours so I can see a better way? Also how much time does it take you to build one, a day and a half?
I didn't bolt this one down though ruclips.net/video/5SKsBSoru6A/видео.html
Hey ,, are you still available for a custom box?
No, unfortunately I don't work on public vehicles anymore.
@@AnthonyJ350 ok thanks for responding back 🙂
@@topnotch9557 Your welcome
Between the xd600 and the rd500 which do you like better to run 1 10w6?
I still prefer the XD. It's smaller and the aluminum finish is nicer than the plastic on the RD.
@@AnthonyJ350 aren't they both to much power for a 400 watt sub! I've seen Jl power 3 tw3 on the XD 5 channel amp with 600 watts for the subs.
@@jameselam8263 You just adjust the signal in and gain and it's fine. Depending on the amp you can wire the sub to 4 ohms reducing the power of the amp as an option.
@@AnthonyJ350 ok I was curious how you were doing it! I guess it would leave plenty of head room that ways as well.
@@jameselam8263 Ya I prefer to overpower quality woofer. Going over by 150 watts I dont have issues. Just need to back off it.
However at the harshest use a brass brush, plastic is better. Or no brush at all. Air! When you brush it you remove the grit also creating paper. Useless paper
Thanks for the tip!
Where are you located
Vancouver BC
Wire brush to knock it down
Thanks for the tip!
How much would something like this run Just the box?
800ish if I were to estimate.
@@AnthonyJ350 Thanks for the reply. Long shot here, but if I wanted one shipped to the states anyway you could mold one to an '15 altima? Ever since JL stopped making a bunch of their models its been tough.
@@Sacharczuk21 Unfortunately I don't ship any of my work out. I'm sure there are experienced shops in your area.
Watch this working on Woods Routers scary me.. One little slipped No more little piggy... ahhhhhh.. you should put plastic first behind masking tape the fiberglass won't soaking into the car carpet.. I built regular and fiberglass boxes all the time ahhhhhh...
Thanks for the comment
Use torx screws and a t20 bit, no kick out when screwing in. It's the only kind of screw I use now, 100 times better than phillips screws. Also, use a screw guard on your drill, it goes down over the screw and prevents you slipping off the screw.
I don't care how you hold the drill, I would NEVER risk that. Open sub, no screw guard, phillips... Yeah nah. There are better screws and better ways to ensure you don't puncture that sub.
Thanks for the feedback!
Lol probably should have demo with bass song to show how well it sounds. Good job though.
Kind of hard for you to hear the system without being there in person.
lets see how hard this really is because the shop told me it would cost around 5000 dollars on my bmw 2001 x5
Is that price, amp, sub, wiring, labour to wire the vehicle and labour to build the enclosure?
Or just build the enclosure?
@@AnthonyJ350 Just the enclosure.. He brought over a custom one they built for another car that goes under the seat and said that one cost like 5k so if i want a custom one i should be prepared for it to be expensive. He did say the shops owner would give me a more exact quote when he comes in on Tuesday but still if its anywhere near 5k thats crazy
@@benberk8541 A lot of variables here. What kind of vehicle, where are you putting it and tooling used to accomplish the job. If it takes 5 business days to build, $5K is legit.
clean!
Thank you!
If a subwoofer box doesn't flex at all will a subwoofer sound louder
I'm sure it will.
Hi where is your shop located I have a xx90 I would like you to work on
I'm in British Columbia Lower Mainland Canada
I watched your video on the xc90 and was very impressed with your work. I live in Saskatchewan.
@@oxman9206 There's Visions Electronics out there with some really good techs.
AnthonyJ350 Really well good to know. If they do as good of work as you I would like there contact info if do not mind
@@oxman9206 You'll want to go to the Regina store (306) 790-7755 ask for Nylan.
How much did this setup run?
About $2500
@@AnthonyJ350 holy shittttttt
Sound test needs mooooore bump
Unless you hear it in person, it will never sound the same.
Another trick to avoid itching when using fiberglass is to rub baby powder all over your arms before you start
Thanks for sharing!
All that work...for 50 watts. Thing sorta vibrates i guess.
It's 600 rms. Not a fair comment because you're not listening to it in person
I used a pair of reference headphones to have a better listen. If that was my car, I'd probably just keep on using those reference headphones.
@@TheBassallyear100 The best reference is actually hearing the car. Not fair because the mic I used does not capture the sound properly.
Anything can vibrate, not everything can sound good.
@@AnthonyJ350
I have been surfing in RUclips since a couple of weeks 2-3 hrs on a daily basis in search of a a perfect base and here is where I am stopping my search..
@AnthonyJ350.. thanks bro😍👍
If you can, plz share the equipments used for the build, so that I can try it in my Ecosport.
I am planning to dig deep into my sideways opening trunk door, sound treat it and plant a 10 inch subwoofer into it..
No sub protection
We added a grille after, didn't come in time for the video.
Hello Sealed BOX OR Ported Sealed not have a long life and not louder but Ported is best louder and long life
I prefer sealed
Xc90
You want a custom enclosure for it?
Phuck I'll just buy a subwoofer box
You can for sure, the JL Audio Stealthboxes retail around $1000 with a sub woofer, depending on the vehicle of course. If they don't make one you'll have to build it like we did.
Cant even hear that thing back there 🤦♂️
Oh you sat in the car and listened to it?
Rub duct tape on your skin to remove fiberglass.
Won't that rip out all my hair on my arm? I'm just imagining the scene from 40 Year Old Virgin.
@@AnthonyJ350 you're right. Leave the fiberglass in.
@@asherdie I did suggest cold water.
@@AnthonyJ350 sure did. I suggested something that always works.
The amp is barely powering the sub in my opinion
Why's that? Nominal power rating is 400 watts, we gave it a 600 watt RMS amp. Here's the spec sheet www.jlaudio.com/products/12tw3-d4-car-audio-tw3-subwoofers-92185
Did you figure out why the sub is underpowered yet?