@@TooManyProjectsTooLittleTime man I appreciate you getting back so fast I’m planning to finish job in am. Sillly question but did you put the new bearing on the axle before you slid it into housing?
@@BrandonLayMusic I used a race installer to install the races then installed the bearing with lots of grease in the race. Then I fed the axle through the bearings. You can put everything but the inner one on the axle first you just have to make sure it seats correctly. Either way when you tighten the axle bolts with the sprockets it will seat everything. A good method is to tighten the bolt pretty good then back it off and then retighten. I don't remember the torque spec off hand. Make sure you watch the seal the entire time your feeding the axle till its through the inner bearing. It's also a very good practice to clean the axle up and lubricate it before install, also light taps with a hammer help the install A LOT. Let me know how you make out.
@@TooManyProjectsTooLittleTime ok got axle and sprocket in with new bearings and seal. How did you draw the chains together? I bought 100h and think I may have cut it too short although I counted 55 links
Excellent video. Did you take the drive motors right out at any point? I bought a 642 yesterday and one of the drive motors wiggles around during operation are the mounting holes elongated to allow a bit of leeway on the motor positioning.
I have never removed them but there is a well known issue with them on this series. From what I have read: the reason the newer machines have a gear reduction on the motor is because there is too much torque and stress on the chain case the way they are mounted on the 642's. I have not had any issues with mine but I have heard they can crack their mounts or even wiggle themselves loose. If it has been operated like this for a while then most likely the mounting holes are egged out. You should be able to find some good info in forums on this problem though. I have seen it but never researched it much as mine doesn't have that issue.
How did you get the 1 1/2” nut off the end of the drive motors ??? We don’t want to break chain if we don’t have to but the only way is to get the break plate off. The drive motor needs replaced because it’s leaking
@@TooManyProjectsTooLittleTime it’s a late model or a high serial number 642 and I guess the drive motors were separated between serial numbers on the style because I’m having a hard time I had to take it off to figure out if it was spline or whatever
Hey man, how do i remove the broken chain from the rear right sprocket? How did u remove yours? My buddy has one. We got it all apart. The chain is bunched up behind the sprocket, on the bottom of the tunnel. Ty!!
3 of mine were like this, I had to remove the actual sprocket to get them out. The sprocket bolts are on the inside. Unfortunately there is no room to remove the chain once it is bound in the corner unless you do that.
@@TooManyProjectsTooLittleTime hey does the sprocket just slip off after we brake the nut loose or do we have to fight that off as well? Also how did u line up the yoke of the motor with the shaft of the hydraulic pump when the pump went back in? Thanks!
Ford motor actually. Out of the pinto. 98CI 1.6L rated around 35 HP if i remember right. It seems like the only differences were the oil pan, exhaust manifold, and camshaft.
Hey there I have a 1980 732 I’m working on. I’m assuming when you remove the chain case there is nothing supporting the pump under the seat at that point, is that right? So if I drop the chain case I need to support that somehow? Thanks for these videos they have been amazingly helpful! See my channel for my 732 and let me know what you think.
Hello! The pump on my 642 still had a support at the rear (front of pump/rear of machine). I put a bungee to support the end of the pump. You can use a heavier duty bungee or something like a ratchet strap to support it. Be extremely careful when lowering the chain case, there can be a few small parts connected that you may not notice till it start to come down. You also may have to tap it with a hammer as you lower it. Slow and easy, it's also VERY heavy. Your 732 looks similar to the condition my 642 was in when I got it. Good luck with it!!! These projects can be very rewarding!!!
All four chain need to have about an inch of play. They need to have play.. By not having play on the chains your causing seals on drive mtr to leak. You need play on the chains by specs...
Everything in this video was literally done 100% to spec. The 642 has NO TENSIONER at all. If you read the service manual you would know this is the exact method used. Any more slack in these chains and they drag on the bottom of the case. The 743 is a different story as it has smaller sprockets due to the gear reduction on the motors. Please check information before posting things like this as this video was made to be a source for those working on 642s.
So did you install the seal on the axle out of the case? Or did you hammer the seal in the housing then slide axle in thru it?
Seals were installed first but you have to be VERY careful feeding the axle through as it cannot rest on the seal unsupported.
@@TooManyProjectsTooLittleTime man I appreciate you getting back so fast I’m planning to finish job in am. Sillly question but did you put the new bearing on the axle before you slid it into housing?
@@BrandonLayMusic I used a race installer to install the races then installed the bearing with lots of grease in the race. Then I fed the axle through the bearings. You can put everything but the inner one on the axle first you just have to make sure it seats correctly. Either way when you tighten the axle bolts with the sprockets it will seat everything. A good method is to tighten the bolt pretty good then back it off and then retighten. I don't remember the torque spec off hand. Make sure you watch the seal the entire time your feeding the axle till its through the inner bearing. It's also a very good practice to clean the axle up and lubricate it before install, also light taps with a hammer help the install A LOT. Let me know how you make out.
@@TooManyProjectsTooLittleTime will do thanks again! I got the races in tonight but it got dark on me. Hopefully be moving some dirt soon!
@@TooManyProjectsTooLittleTime ok got axle and sprocket in with new bearings and seal. How did you draw the chains together? I bought 100h and think I may have cut it too short although I counted 55 links
Excellent video. Did you take the drive motors right out at any point? I bought a 642 yesterday and one of the drive motors wiggles around during operation are the mounting holes elongated to allow a bit of leeway on the motor positioning.
I have never removed them but there is a well known issue with them on this series. From what I have read: the reason the newer machines have a gear reduction on the motor is because there is too much torque and stress on the chain case the way they are mounted on the 642's. I have not had any issues with mine but I have heard they can crack their mounts or even wiggle themselves loose. If it has been operated like this for a while then most likely the mounting holes are egged out. You should be able to find some good info in forums on this problem though. I have seen it but never researched it much as mine doesn't have that issue.
How did you get the 1 1/2” nut off the end of the drive motors ??? We don’t want to break chain if we don’t have to but the only way is to get the break plate off. The drive motor needs replaced because it’s leaking
My drive motor sprockets were held on by a snap ring, no nuts. What model machine are you working on?
@@TooManyProjectsTooLittleTime it’s a late model or a high serial number 642 and I guess the drive motors were separated between serial numbers on the style because I’m having a hard time I had to take it off to figure out if it was spline or whatever
I have a 642b. repowered it with a Toyota 4 cilinder diesel. Bought it from the neighbor for 800 bucks.
Nice!! Toyota actually makes a really nice machine with a 4 cylinder in it. They are called SDK's I wonder if the engine you used is from one?
I don't know, I was told it came out of a fork lift.
@@thesmallscalefarmer1849 Forklift engines are with relatively higher RPMs which will be suitable for a skid steer loader as well.
Hey man, how do i remove the broken chain from the rear right sprocket? How did u remove yours? My buddy has one. We got it all apart. The chain is bunched up behind the sprocket, on the bottom of the tunnel. Ty!!
3 of mine were like this, I had to remove the actual sprocket to get them out. The sprocket bolts are on the inside. Unfortunately there is no room to remove the chain once it is bound in the corner unless you do that.
@@TooManyProjectsTooLittleTime awe man, thanks so much for replying so fast. My buddy owns a black top business, he needs his machine up asap!
@@chrispy3866 glad I could help!
@@TooManyProjectsTooLittleTime hey does the sprocket just slip off after we brake the nut loose or do we have to fight that off as well? Also how did u line up the yoke of the motor with the shaft of the hydraulic pump when the pump went back in? Thanks!
I having real trouble to locate the master link on the installed chain inside the machine
Can u advise
Ford motor actually. Out of the pinto. 98CI 1.6L rated around 35 HP if i remember right. It seems like the only differences were the oil pan, exhaust manifold, and camshaft.
Regular 642 was the Ford engine, the 642B was a Mitsubishi motor from what I’ve read.
@playwme3 I think you're correct.
thanks for the video
Anytime! I always try to make videos on stuff I cant ever find info on to help the next guy!
@@TooManyProjectsTooLittleTime ive recently just dipped my toes into mechanic work so this is helpful. thanks again
who did you use for parts please?
Hey there I have a 1980 732 I’m working on. I’m assuming when you remove the chain case there is nothing supporting the pump under the seat at that point, is that right? So if I drop the chain case I need to support that somehow? Thanks for these videos they have been amazingly helpful! See my channel for my 732 and let me know what you think.
Hello! The pump on my 642 still had a support at the rear (front of pump/rear of machine). I put a bungee to support the end of the pump. You can use a heavier duty bungee or something like a ratchet strap to support it. Be extremely careful when lowering the chain case, there can be a few small parts connected that you may not notice till it start to come down. You also may have to tap it with a hammer as you lower it. Slow and easy, it's also VERY heavy. Your 732 looks similar to the condition my 642 was in when I got it. Good luck with it!!! These projects can be very rewarding!!!
انا لدي الجنزير ينقطع باستمرار ما المشكله
All four chain need to have about an inch of play. They need to have play.. By not having play on the chains your causing seals on drive mtr to leak. You need play on the chains by specs...
Everything in this video was literally done 100% to spec. The 642 has NO TENSIONER at all. If you read the service manual you would know this is the exact method used. Any more slack in these chains and they drag on the bottom of the case. The 743 is a different story as it has smaller sprockets due to the gear reduction on the motors. Please check information before posting things like this as this video was made to be a source for those working on 642s.
743 takes a 80H chain