How To do a Color Over Color Relic Paint Job With Spray Cans
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- Опубликовано: 27 янв 2021
- In this video we talk about how to do one of those really cool relic finishes where a top paint layer is removed to reveal a second paint layer below it. This double paint job relic shows up in a lot of interesting vintage looks. I'm calling it the color over color relic or the double relic until somebody explains to me what these are actually called.
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Видеоклипы
21:36. You can see the wood laminations (glue lines) in the back. This is caused by planing or sanding the wood blank too soon after glue-up. What people don’t realize is that the wood slightly swells because it slightly hydrates from the moisture in the glue itself. If you sand too early it will shrink back leaving those low valleys. The glue-up should be left for a month for the moisture levels to equalize.
14:41 I rather you talk than listen to music. You explain yourself well and its really enjoyable. Sometimes music is annoying.
I’m glad you like the explanations
This series is especially helpful for us lefties who have the choice of black or um black guitars, especially in the umder-$500 range. I don't care for the relic look but both the Daphne blue and the original color are stunning and you did an amazing job at each level.
Thanks Michael
Well said. We always get the unpleasant end of the stick.
Bro I watch these even when I have no intention of doing them. Hope you are doing well during this insanity.
Thanks Vincent. I hope you are also doing well and are enjoying the videos.
@@BradAngove Doing better than last year my friend. Had to stop the cables for a minute because of COVID madness but back at it. Keep your eye on the mail.
Thanks man; I’m glad to hear you’re back at it.
Okay bro
Beautiful finishes at every stage of this project!
Thanks Thomas
I'd love to see a high stakes painjob. Like a spraying over the top finish on a Gibson les paul. That video would blow up for the risk and danger of it.
Thanks for being helpful, this video was exactly the info I needed
Glad I could help
Brad, really appreciated this video. I'm currently building a clone ES333 from Tom Delonge's "kiss and tell" guitar. Its white with bright green paint spilling down the front. I didn't want multiple layers of paint visible on the surface of the guitar, so with this method I can paint it green first and clear it, then paint it white and relic the white to expose the bright green. Then I'll clear the whole thing again. Just picked up the materials today, thanks again!
Glad I could help!
I'll be keen to see this when you're done and see how the differing technique looks vs the way Tom does it.
Out of curiosity, did you get your hands on a 333, or are you using something else as the base?
@@JustinGoodworth nah, I'm too cheap for that 😄 the guitar is an Aria 335 clone.
I did an olive drab satin finish over a vintage edition cherry burst epiphone Les Paul special which is already factory matte/satin... It came out so good. I didn't use thinners, just sanded it and knifed it and general bumping around.
I like it man, that was pretty cool the way it came out👍, I personally liked the longer video man its good content!
Thanks Blake. I can never tell whether people are down for the longer ones. It’s good to have the feedback.
Something I didn't know I wanted to learn! Well done as always...
Thank you
Great job explaining and showing the process. I like the voice over as well.
Thanks Peter
Great job on this video brad !!
Thanks Terry!
About to do a colour over colour finish myself on my best friend's old childhood 1996 Squire Strat...already have the oxford paint & then just stumbled on your video. Happy to see it dries so quickly and applies as good as it does! Thinking I'm going to be able to get the exact relic look I'm going after especially since this body already has lot of war scars on it!! PS the lacquer thinner trick is one I never knew about and think I'll use that as well sometime in the future - right now I just have it taped up where I want the original finish to stay and then am going to relic it that way with sand paper and blades, etc.
Useful and informative as always! I was trying to figure out away to “double paint” successfully. You just saved me with the perfect tutorial! Regards.
Glad I could help
Same here.. it’s the exact tutorial I needed that answered a few of my questions all at once.
Watching you spray the body actually calmed my nerves today lol
Glad to hear it. I hope your nerves didn’t need calming because of the stock market...
@@BradAngove No not at all lol...but I have been noticing that as well along with the rest of the circus
It has been very distracting haha.
Yes this is what I was talking about and the best is with years passing by you sloely get another different but same guitar 💪
Man great video, always loved the look of the Novo Guitars Ocean Turquoise over a three tone burst and wondered how they did it...... next guitar build for sure!
Nice; I hope it goes well.
Beautiful technique!
Thank you!
Great video. Gave me the courage to do mine.
Glad to hear it
Funny, 'relic' is what my grown daughters call me. Um...I'll gladly take a coat of anything ya got that'll fix that for me? :)
Just tell her “they don’t make ‘em like they used to”.
Thank you Im new to paintjobs like theese but I had a theory and you just confirmed it! 😁
Glad to hear it
Heads up guys: the first 1000 people to use this link will get a free trial of Skillshare Premium Membership: skl.sh/bradangove01211
Hey, it’s Dan - the guy with the relic/fabric guitar you commented on! I’m kicking myself for not thinking of lacquer thinner. I bet that would have saved me hours of scraping 🤦♂️ will try this method if I ever try it again!
Scraping is a totally reasonable way to go at it. Just a little more difficult. It clearly worked out for you though; yours looks great.
Very Awesome Technic I Do Like it Maybe in the future Of Builds I might try it. 👍👍🎶🎶🎸
This is a perfect video I was looking for I'm currently looking for a bare wood DIY guitar kit and wanted to do a two tone relic the kit comes with a 2 tone burst paint kit and was looking for other options.
Glad I could help
I must admit during the relicing process I was not a fan of how it was coming out but after the finish project I fell in love with it. Very nice looking strat body
Glad you like it
Very late to the party here but excellent tutorial. I have been wondering how to do this for months... (maybe I should turn on notifications). Fiesta red over a sunburst CV Squier stratocaster is now on the cards...
People are certainly divided over the relicing thing. I think if it makes you feel happy, go for it. Who cares if it's authentic? It's artistic.
After all most peeps are just jamming at home by themselves. 🙂
People are always concerned about what other people do to their guitars. I don’t think I’ll ever understand that. Just do what you want folks!
It really shouldn’t matter what an instrument looks like to someone else but it’s true merit is that the thing inspires the owner to wanna pick it up and play it more often, not whether or not it stacks up to Joe Bob’s subjective scrutiny.
I say “damn the torpedoes” and “full steam ahead”! These techniques are already outta the Pandora’s Box, so why not go for it, and let the proverbial chips fall where they may.
That Oxford stuff sprays much better if you put it in warm water for a bit before you spray it.
I have some Olympic white I’m doing over a black strat. Great vid as always my dude! 🤘🏻😷🤘🏻
I love using nitro
Nice one man!
Thank you
I would be very curious to see you go trough the other layer all the way to the wood.
Eternal Guitars and pickups do a blue over sunburst heavy relic (called the Skye) fricking gorgeous.
Nice!
This is an awesome tutorial..
I’m interested in applying these techniques on my first build, but I really don’t even wanna approach it as a relic, but more just to make it look really crazy and fun. Mostly in the artistic way one of the other commenters eluded to.. as I really don’t want it to look like it was accidental at all, but I know I’ll enjoy it far more as something I can personalize than any stock colors.
Additionally, I find it really interesting people have such an adverse reaction to “reliced” guitar finishes. I can’t help but think of how the old “folkies” of the 60’s completely freaked out on Bob Dylan for going electric. It is really very odd, humorous, and even a bit sad.
I really don’t get how all these people get so upset about creating relics. They say that people should “earn their scars”, but I think that’s a load of crap, really.. cause most of those same guys will baby their guitars their whole lives and never have the nuts to get crazy enough on stage to deliver any noticeable scars to begin with.
Besides that, many of em will go through several before they really settle into one they really like to play, but then turn around and get all asshurt over what someone else wants to play? What gives?? 🤷
People are the same way about cars and houses.. comparing and competing. My stuff doesn’t have to be like everyone else’s stuff.. doesn’t have to be what they think is best if they aren’t playing it, it’s the best to me BECAUSE it’s mine and because I like playing it the best.
I love this guitar you painted and relic-ized here, I’d build it out and rock out. But I might be tempted to use “artificial” reverb or delay cause I don’t feel the need for the “authentic” experience of recording deep in a cave or on the edge of a cliff anytime soon though I’m sure it makes for an amazing experience that would be unparalleled by something as simple as flipping a switch on my amp, or stomping an effects box. 🙄
Btw.. anyone looking to get rid of ‘68-‘69 Plymouth Roadrunner clone for a better price than the damn near 100k they want for a numbers matching barn find, then by all means HIT ME UP. I’ll make it purr and probably prettier than the museum piece than never gets any road time.
I have a 1999 Fender 50's MIM Strat. It had a large crack across the top. It is Daphne Blue but red paint shows thru where the forearm rests.. I put an American Tremolo bridge in it and the springs were rubbing. I rerouted the spring cavity and under the the blue and red was Surf Green. I touched up the body with Krylon and you can't tell where the Fender color ends and the Krylon starts.
Sounds like it’s had a few lives haha
So amazing ❤️ video bro
And the colour is so nice 😊👍Yaar so I love this video are you a good singer 😄 love from India 🇮🇳
Singer? Haha I am a terrible singer!
@@BradAngove ooh sorry bro
We’d all be more sorry if we had to listen to me sing haha
Would like to see a video like this but with painting a poly finished guitar with rustoleum to do the relic on top of a relic
Not sure you will like the results of trying to relic rustoleum. It’s a different type of paint.
Back in the day it was called red over sunburst or black over sunburst. Because it only went over. Is sunburst
You need to put the pick guard bridge and other hardware on when you relic. To get the proper patterns that away you're not making it up
Ok cool, this is where that new short video came from.
Indeed.
Man I hope i have your skill and the beard one day
Thanks Jordan. My beard and I appreciate that.
I would love to have this body in a cheap price.
So im working on a relic project, and I used a Fender strat poly body. I have my relic done through the poly down to the wood and im happy with it. Now I want to add nitro for the double paint look. Funny i bought oxford nitro paint before i saw your videos! Glad it seems to work well. My question to you is, should I spray my color and clear coats before i work through down to the wood? Or spray my color coat, work back down to the wood, and spray the clear coat last? I hope im making sense. Thank you!!
If you want it to be more authentic you will spray the clear first and then work back down. If you want to protect it more, spray your clear afterward. That’s not how it would work in reality though. You’d wear through the clear coat first.
How about the tweed sport coat. That beat-up jacket you wear over everything?
The black one with the massive tears under the arms that lets the -40 air keep my armpits fresh in the winter?
In furniture they would call it a rub- through
Thanks
Awesome ! Can I overspray my T-style guitar ? It has a swamp ash body and the back is transparent....I would like it to be brown see-through finish ! Can I make it ? Thanks for your answer and help 🙏👍
You can, as long as you prep it properly and use a paint that’s compatible with the current finish.
Good tutorial. I don’t like the colour choices here. I’ve got a sunburst jazz bass body I’m painting over with a shell pink to do a relic, burn through paint job. Thanks for the tips and tricks. 👍
I hope your project goes well.
Awesome vid! I'm plannind on doing something like this to my epi firebird. Can I play it after it's or do I have to wait 2 weeks or even a month for nitro to dry? Also, can you buff/smooth out any bumps after applying the paint?
You can sand and polish out any bumps after 3-4 weeks generally. I’d wait that long to play it too.
Thanks!@@BradAngove
👍✌😎
Take care buddy.
You too boss
Brad, can you do a video with one of these Oxford paints and clear coat with Mohawk pre-catalysed lacquer? I'm still undecided on how to paint my bass guitar and its cold in the garage so waiting for warmer weather eventually.. no spray booth either. I'm surprised all you did was scuff it..
Interesting idea. I will see if the opportunity arises to give it a try.
How would you compare the oxford spray can laq vs. the Mohawk pre-catalyzed spray laq? Is the Oxford pre-catalyzed (I might have missed that part in your video).
No the Oxford isn’t pre-cat. Oxford uses a very vintage formula. Mohawk has modernized their so it doesn’t behave quite the same in the long run.
Awesome! Do you have any videos of you painting a thinline tele? (f holes)? I would like to do a paint on paint such as this video, but on a thinline tele. Wondering what tips you have for covering or painting over the f-holes as to not paint the inside of the guitar.
I don’t typically do anything to avoid painting the inside of the guitar. The closest I’ve come to what you are describing so far is the collaborative project I did with guns and guitars.
@@BradAngove next question: if i paint with a duplicolor spray, use minwax polyurethane spray, then cover with another duplicolor spray can, will it still relic like this with lacquer remover?
I’m not sure. Notionally it should, but I’ve never tested the theory.
Hello Brad, hey im following your spray painting video and i git a little run /sag on my second primer sealer coat. My question is do i finish all my flash coats and let the primer dry for the 4 days or do i wait to sand that run/ sag right now afterbthe second coat dary.
Thanks so much Brad for all you help.
Tony D.
You can finish the sealer and then let it dry and sand it out before moving on to your color.
Thanks a million. You have been a great help.
two tone relic
I have a finished Tele body, I’m assuming it’s poly, same color as that one. Anyway, its too shiny for my tastes. Do you think I’d be ok just scuffing it with a scotch brite pad and spraying a few coats of satin nitro?
Thanks for the cool tutorial Brad!
Yes, you can do that. It’s essentially what I did in my video on how to turn a gloss finish matte or satin.
Hi Brad. My question may be out of scope, but since you've given lots of jams on painting, you might be able to help in my situation. I'd like to transform my apple pencil2 to look like a "Ticonderoga pencil#2". I would like to use the dupli-color metal cast paints because they would allow the Apple logo to still show. Any suggestions on how I might need to lay those colors since I'm gonna be laying a green on top of the yellow. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Those are transparent, so in terms of the colours you will essentially just need to do some testing. Green over yellow should be fine, but if not you may want to do a light blue under yellow instead. Those should mix to give you green.
Will the nitro still check on top of the poly if you put it in the freezer or with canned air
It should. That happens due to shrinking of the finish, not changes in the substrate.
I have a guitar body that's coated with acrylic enamel under that the body was stained can I spray nitrocellulose lacquer over to get this same look without any issues?
You may end up with some compatibility issues with the enamel. Especially if it has been on there’s for a relatively short period of time. Also, it’s likely not solvent proof like the 2K.
Hey Brad. Im planning to do a color over color relic. The only problem I have is I dont have any access to any nitro paint in my country. And its very expensive to ship. I wanna do the lacquer-then paint thinner technique you did in this video. Got any alternatives for the nitro cellulose paint?
Nothing will be quite the same, but acrylic lacquer will be fairly similar.
Brad, cool job - jut want to do this to my Squier VM Tele with black PUR Lacquer on it - how to (over)Color it with Nitrocellulose Lacquer? Do I have to remove old PUR Lacquer completely or just sanding the old Lacquer (600 or 800)?
What is PUR lacquer?
@@BradAngove Sorry - polyethylene.
I’m not really familiar with that product. My guess is that, if that’s a really old paint job you can sand it smooth and paint over top. I don’t know for sure though.
Patina? Like how the way copper oxidizes and starts having patches of green.
There are different types of patina. That is one of them.
@@BradAngove right. I’m just sayin...was that the word you were lookin for...instead of “ Color over color Relic...” I thought that it was similar concept? Patina definitely gives that antique vibe.
Oh, I see what you we’re going for now.
What about mixing a flat black and a shining bright color like what they do on cars now. ???
I’m not sure what you mean
Would you advise buying an airbrush to paint guitars or is a full size gun a requirement I'm going to end up buying a gun anyway but I feel like the gun I'd use for painting something like a car would be oversized for painting a guitar
You can use a mini gun. It’s very difficult to get an even coat on a large area with an airbrush and would be impossible to clear coat properly (although you could arguably stick to spray cans for the clear coat if you want).
Hello Brad, I just want ask is there a clear coat I can spray paint on top of?
That’s what that satin lacquer was.
Brad Thank you! I always watch because someday, I'm gonna make one! I'm still stuck on a LP Jr. All mahogany. I need to lay out a tune-o-matic bridge. Should I lay it out and drill it before or after sanding to 220? Also how do I drill out the holes? Also how should I finish it? I probably shouldn't have put this here. It's your latest video. Sorry. Thank you!
BTW It hurt's to watch you take a scotch brite to that beautiful finish.
Hi Peter. Do your drilling work first. I’ve got a video on bridge placement, and a video on tunomatic bridges. I also have my most recent SG series where I re-drilled, and a couple videos on getting straight holes without a drill press if you don’t have one.
@@BradAngove Getting the bridge drilled will be a big hurdle to get over. Once this guitar is done I'm hoping to order that spalted maple top Lp and build it just like your videos. That's perfect looking. Thanks for all your help!
I've been poring over the old Fender colour charts and mixing acrylics to get near. No nitro spraying facility at present and the colour I want is kinda obscure. Beautiful job, but I don't get the whole relic thing. It's like putting woodworm type holes in furniture!
It’s certainly not for everyone. And there’s a hilarious spread of levels of relic job, which I always find entertaining.
Hey Brad,
This looks really awesome and I think I'm gonna try it on the partscaster I'm building. Do you think Rustoleum Hammered would make an okay first layer for this? Primarily for...sentimental reasons.
Thanks.
The hammered paint causes problems if you try to paint over it. The silicon wreaks havoc with the next coat. If you take a look at my video on hammered paint I show a quick demo of what happens.
@@BradAngove Thanks for answering and saving me from doing something dumb!
Glad I could help
How many Satin Clear Aerosols did you use? They recommended to use 2 satin clears so I bought 2 of them.
I only used one. I have a recent video about tips for satin finishes that you may find helpful.
Hi Brad so I’m using the oxford nitro paint white and black for my relic can you use the lacquer thinner to clear an area for my reclining area or should l use something else ? Also l will finish with the vintage aged nitro clear coat
I’m not sure I understand. Are you using the lacquer thinner to remove paint?
@@BradAngove yes what l am trying to to do is similar to what you did in this video where you painted over the the existing paint and then you uses paint thinner to take away the new paint to expose the old paint underneath . What l am trying to do is this but with three colors 1 the sunburst that's already there which has a poly finish which l scuffed then antique white nitro then l want to put black over that then clear it with thinner to expose all three colors in the relic then finish it with clear antique vintage that's already aged l hope this makes sense sorry for the confusion
Thank you in advance Amos
@bridgesighs oh, I see. The only issue with that from my perspective is that the thinner will impact both layers of lacquer. It’s a really cool idea though. I hope it goes well for you.
quick question, i know nitro is some dangerous stuff so where would you recommend to paint these bodies if i don’t have access to a shop or something would it be safe to do it out of a garage with a fan shooting out or would people that walk by be in danger?
It should disperse pretty quickly once it hits open air, so I would think that’s probably adequate, but I’m not safety expert.
I’ve been wanting to do this with nitro over poly but I’m worried how the nitro will hold over the poly.. sorry if you talk about it in the video lol
Do separate lacquers or not make them melt into each other?
I’m not sure I understand what you’re asking.
Truckster finish?
Kind of off beat question, but in regards to your spray stand holder, What size/type screws are you using to mount the body to the attachment? The neck screws I have are too thin to attach from the front, but I’m worried about buying screws too large and making the neck holes too wide and creating problems down the road.
I usually just use deck screws. The holes in the body should actually be widened a bit when you attach the neck to the guitar so the screws pull on the neck and don’t bind up in the guitar. That will give you a better fit. So I’m never worried about the holes in the guitar that much.
@@BradAngove dope, thanks man!
I’m about to attempt this on a Squier strat body. I have a rookie question. I know you originally used the automotive Polyurethane on this in the other video. If I were to use spraymax clear coat instead, would I get the same results? Or would it not blend properly as it’s a different clear coat?
The spraymax is an automotive polyurethane, so if you’re using that for the first part of the process that should be fine.
Thanks! Like I said, total rookie here.
Glad I could help
Is it necessary to use clear? Any reason why you couldn’t skip the clear?
The clear is to protect it. So for the nitro part of you want it to keep wearing away and you’re not polishing or anything you don’t need clear.
I don't know what it's called but I believe the CBS era at Fender took guitars and basses that either didn’t have nice enough for a sunburst or screwed up sunbursts were often the canvas of a custom color. I've seen a handful of examples of that practice, over the years and that's when they started suing automotive urathane, but you'll never find a paisley or flower under a solid color from the factory.
That would be a waste of a paisley coming out of the factory, but I’ve seen people do it for custom work.
Wait a minute, could you spray oxford on top of a squier body for example and then throw it in the freezer to get that cracked relic look? so youll get lines on a poly finish essentialy
You mean just spray the clear lacquer on there and then freeze it to cause the checking? Probably. Might look a bit different with just the clear cracking; it’s hard to say.
@@BradAngove sweet! I didnt think it would stick, im in canada ill order some and test it out on a cheap epiphone
Im honestly just super curious not looking for the best results
Don’t forget to sand the poly first like I did here, or it won’t stick.
Brad,
Ok now I have been binging for a couple of days on your videos. Good news for a RUclipsr right. Have a question I am going to take a run and customizing a cheap guitar I bought on internet. I want to do a flag design so I bought a white guitar that I am going to sand then add blue and red portions. So I can just buy lacquer paint and satin clear coat from an automotive place or hardware store to do this my first time?
Yes, that shouldn’t be a problem. As you will have seen from my channel, I’ve painted guitars using all sorts of different paints and finishing products haha.
Hey Brad, this is gonna be the first time I do a custom paint job. have a generic poly finished strat in silver. Is it necessary to scruff up the body with sandpaper before spraying black nitro paint? Also, is it necessary to spray clear satin nitro in the end? because
Essentially, I'd like for the guitar to "relic" through playing shows, etc. So I'm wondering if applying a clear satin nitro coat in the end would prevent a natural "relic" from forming.
And I'll def buy from oxford considering I'm from Canada as well >:)
You will need to scuff first to get the paint to stick. The clear is just to protect it. I wouldn’t call it necessary per se.
@@BradAngove ah true. since you say it protects the paint, will the clear coat still allow the nitro paint to “fade off” over time ? btw, thanks man, appreciate the help !
It will still fade, but if you want it to wear off you can use less clear coat or keep it very thin.
Refin relic
I can't find "CALYPSO BLUE" Dupli-Color anywhere on line. Does anyone know where I can purchase it? Thanks
I think that is the Canadian version of gm bright aqua metalic. I was able to finnally match that color with duplicolor perfect match gm bright aqua metalic but on amazon it's 18 dollar a can and you will need two cans most likely but if you can find it at an auto parts store for less do it.
I think in Canada where Brad is from they might call it calypso blue instead but not sure. Hope this helps. As I struggled with it as years ago I painted a guitar that same color but could not remember what the automotive paint code was until I figured out it was gm code bright aqua metalic and tested it on scrap and it matched. If you use duplicolor grey primer or perfect match scratch filler primer first.
Did you ever try to freeze spray and then hit an area to crack it? Instead of marking lines with a knife.
I’ve done it before, but what I do is warm it up and then freeze spray it quickly.
1:46 What sport did you play?
Rugby
in antique shops antiquing is what they call it when a old peace of wood is replaced with a new one. and they make it look old.like a table leg or a arm on a arm chair.
Indeed. They have some really cool processes for that.
I painted a guitar with a copper metallic finish, can I use spray max clear 2k to keep the metallic finish?
What kind of copper metallic?
@@BradAngove Just Rustoleum bright coat metallic finish in a spray can
Usually adding clear coat over those metallic paints makes them look dull.
Hey man can u do some sort of tutorial how to paint a guitar with The blackest black (black 2.0 or black 3.0) or if u can tell ME how i can use IT on a unfinished guitar
I’ve never worked with it. What leads you to believe it’s used different than other spray paints?
@@BradAngove It a tube of paint Its not spray
I tink IT work s with air brush
Oh; I see. Does it come with a reducer?
Hi, I was wondering if you could maybe help with some advice. Im an artist and a client asked me to paint om top of his polly coated guitar. Can I use the same method and paint as you did in this video? Sand the part that Im painting and use laquer paints and then spray a clear over laquer over it when its dry? Ill be painting by hand can you please advize as Im unsure about durability and about what would work on top of the polly layer
Yes, you can do that as long as the poly is fully cured.
@@BradAngove thank you and when Im only working on a portion of the guitar, will the sanding not cause a dull look where I dont paint? There is no way to paint without sanding?
If you spray over poly without sanding it just won’t stick properly and it may delaminate.
Thank you I presumed that and I reckon its the same for hand painting as well?
Correct. Unless you’re using something like one shot pinstriping paint.
I'm not down with relicing, which as a word looks like taking lice that were in something and putting them back in, because somehow, it's better with the lice back in it. Tonewise, I'm sure. But I'm down with this. Maybe because it looks randomly two toned, rather than beat up. I like this a lot!
Thanks Brad. It’s always an interesting line, much like burning. Trying to get a cool effect without it looking like you just pulled a junk guitar out of a dumpster haha.
I'm using lacquer paint for my guitar design. I'm only using two colors (white and black) and both are lacquer. I'm worried about the melting of the two colors together. Meaning I don't want the white to melt into the black and I end up with grey. Other than this video, do you have any other videos showing how you spray lacquer over lacquer without it mixing together?
Lacquer doesn’t do that. If you spray the white at full opacity over the black it won’t turn grey.
@@BradAngove Thank you so much for replying to all my annoying questions. I’m eternally grateful. I’ve been buying Oxford Guitar Supply Co paint, etc; and I’ve been using your name as reference. Thank you again!!!
@@BradAngove I just finished doing layering work on my guitar body. Since I used guitar lacquer for both bottom and top layers, I am wondering what kind sandpaper grit should I use to reduce the ridges?
Thanks!
I would generally use 800 grit for that.
"For laqueur've a better word..."
Feed the algorithm
Haha thanks Sam
Brad I bought two instruments that are Serbian there both 4 or 5 string . Kinda crazy I would love to sell them to someone who knows how to set them up and knows how to play them
4 or 5 string? Very cool. Do you know what they’re called?
@@BradAngove I think they call the little one a prim
That is pronounced preem and the bigger one has a body like a parlor guitar but the neck is real skinny and short and it has 5 tuners but the nut and bridge are cut for 4 strings and the big one is called a bulgarija , I guess it is called tamburitzan instruments
You should see the craftmanship , oh my God they are beautiful . I'm going look and see if you have Instagram and I will send you a bunch of pictures
Cool, they sound neat. My Instagram link is in the description.
Doctor asks have you ever hit your head hard enough to cause a concussion? I was like... today? Loloo
Question: “have you had any injuries”. Me: “how much time do you have?”
Lol not yet today what do you have in mind? Lolol
They are like... you already said ruptured spleen. Yeah I know what the heck who ruptures their spleen twice? Then when I was 31 I... loloo
The term you were looking for at the beginning of this tutorial is 'distressed'......your welcome!
It is called antiquing or making it look beat up
Relicing?
Not into 'relic-ing.' I mean, if you want your guitar to look used then use it. But this job you did looks alright, and each to their own.
Comically enough I pretty much never use my guitars haha.
@@BradAngove LOL! my bad, I meant people in general
Oh, I figured that haha. Was just putting in my two cents.
They call em paint over paint relic.
Not exactly catchy, is it? Haha
I call that worn out, but the colourborders are much to strong (sharp). The borders should be more fluent. Worn out in the horn? There's no contact with something to worn. Worn were the belt goes. And the bucle. Just one persons opinion. Rob
Your hand doesn’t make contact in the horn area Rob? Not a bit high-notes guy?
@@BradAngove I don't know the expression "high-notes guy". But it sounds bad. Let one thing be clear: My remarks are only meant for you to become a better guitar-builder. Rob
Hi Rob, I just meant that if you don’t touch the horn area you probably don’t play the high notes often. As in the higher frets.
41st.