linktr.ee/maddox_mechanic In this video I go over some basic checks a do it yourself-er can do at home to make sure their brake system is in good health.
Also with the pads, if there is uneven wear then you could have a warped rotor. Also check both sides of the rotor for scores, which means that you either had contaminates between the pads and rotors, or you waited too long to change your pads. Also make sure your caliper guide pins are lubed up
Nice, id also just replace them if there is too much rust build up around the fins as they can prevent the rotor from dissipating the heat, rust being an insulator it could also cause abnormal pad wear. If anything if you save your old pads and have at least 3mm on them you could temporarily use them until you get a proper brake job done. Having older cars you may have to replace the caliper or rubber lines as well.
Also forgot to mention if you're regularly checking your brakes and ensure the pads can move freely in their slides its easier to diagnose abnorma wear to the caliper itself or the rubber line.
what about grinding and the brakes aren’t even applied, what could the rotor be scraping on? just replaced my pads and rotors about 2 months ago and they’re damn near almost gone on the back side of the rotor like it’s been rubbing this whole time while driving my truck, could it be a bad bearing?
Get new rotors every time you do your brakes. It is best to have 2 brand new surfaces coming in contact with each other rather than an old rotor and new pads.
@@edwardlondon6463warped rotors cause a vibration under hard braking. Usually felt in the steering wheel if the front is bad, or felt in the seat if the rear is bad. Can also cause a pulsation in the brake pedal
2 little clicks is "0.002" of an inch. I've never heard or seen someone checking for run out on both sides. If it's warped you only need to check one side. And pulsation when braking can be very subjective from one person to the next, always best to take a measurement. Hope that helps.
Just depends on the person and their budget. A lot of people do not have $250 to spend on pads and rotors. Some people have families to feed. Important to keep in mind. Just trying to help inform
The tolerance will be in service data. Which you can get from AllData. If you absolutely cannot find a spec, good rule of thumb is no more than 0.002” or rotor run out. Hope that helps
Typically I mount the run out gauge to what ever is near the rotor and stationary. Going to depend on the vehicle and the type of mount you have. Hope that helps
I cant seem to find someone that can answer my question so I'll ask you. Is it possible for a vehicle to not have rear brake pads and rotors? The other day I had to change a flat tire, and when i took off the tire, i noticed that there are no brake pads or rotors. Just the round wheel where the lugs are. I went and checked the front of my truck and the brake rotors dont look worn out. Im not having any issues with brakes at all. But i just thought it was odd that my truck doesn't have rear brakes. Is that possible? Or am i missing something? Like i said, I'm just curious. And google isn't answering my question.
Wow that’s an interesting scenario. Without knowing the history of the vehicle, I would imagine at some point someone changed out the rear differential assembly. And the brakes on the one they switched it out with, either weren’t included or didn’t match up somehow. My guess is that it had drum brakes at some point in the rear. Might be worth some investigating, and seeing if there’s anything remaining of the old brake system. And, it probably wouldn’t be a bad idea to start figuring out how to get a brake system restored to the rear of the vehicle. It is your brakes after all.
@@aiyogarage It's a 2005 Chevy Silverado 1500 extended cab. I purchased it in 2014. I had it for 10 years already and I have only had the brake pads and rotors changed in it once. That was like 2 years ago. I have never had brake issues. I just thought it was weird that it doesn't have rear brakes. Neither does my 2001 Toyota Corolla. I also bought it used, but it brakes fine. I was just wondering if it's something I should even worry about since I don't have braking issues.
I'm pretty sure your vehicle has drum brakes instead of the typical disc brakes you're used to seeing. So instead of having a disc/rotor with caliper containing brake pads, there's a drum enclosing all the brake hardware. If you pull the drum out, which can only be done when the parking brake isn't engaged, you'll see a pair of brake shoes connected to a wheel cylinder. I recommend learning about drum brakes if you're still not following. Hopefully that helps you out
I just got my brakes and rotors replaced like 2 years ago . I was just told my rotors have excessive grooves the brakes are fine . How is this possible? Could it be a case of up selling me or how can new rotors have excessive grooves , meaning, they may need replacement already? I got oem parts too. Could a bad installation cause this? I really am confused about that assessment
Honestly without taking a look myself I wouldn’t be able to tell you. If they do have excessive grooves they are in need of replacement. I would as of a photo or video of your brakes as proof. Hope that helps
Yeah they gave a photo, I lens I can see it but I wouldn’t know if it’s excessive or normal myself . It’s just weird to me that it would be excessive in a short time frame , My last rotors lasted like years and years. I barely have driven since I got these installed
Ok thanks I’ll see if I can take it to someone to double check . Can calipers be lightly sanded to fix grooves if it isn’t too bad? I’m thinking if there is something off maybe I can fix that and then condition the rotors if it’s a little wear instead of buy new ones all over. I had a friend who’s a mechanic instal em outs his garage but maybe he messed something up
Calipers can not be sanded. The brake system needs to be inspected by a professional for inspection. I would recommend a second opinion on why the system failed prematurely if you're this concerned. @@heythere6983
Would a warped, rotor, cause, crazy, squeaking, accelerating, and or pressing on the break I know that I have a warped rotor. I am just wondering if this is the problem because I have a crazy squeak but I also just replaced my control arm and tire rod but I know that my rotors are warped and I’m wondering if that’s what causing that crazy squeak? Also when I’m coming to a stop like 10 to 0 my car some wet rocks. Back-and-forth around the 5 to 0 Mark. It’s very very light, but it’s noticeable when you go from second gear to neutral, and just ride it out on the brakes
Duralast rotors are not great. I've seen many with surface layer fractures after low miles. Napa batteries are crap. Napa brake pads are fine if you get ceramics. Stay away from BrakeBest at oh oh oh really.
One-side I did Duralast, holding up OK so far, the rest of the brakes and rotors I did OEM more $ but hopefully better results, seems like more brake dust with NAPA pads thus far
@@shadowman1992 i used to think the same shit until my rotor broke into pieces and jammed itself on the inside of my rim. It completely locked up an entire wheel and sent the car sliding into trees at over 120. Save yourself a totaled car and permanent back pain.
It’s common for rotors to get rusty when a car sits. As long as the rust doesn’t show signs of pitting or cracking, it should just come off when you’re driving.
Those rotors are on backwards. I know it seems to make sense with how they are currently positioned because it would seem as though it’s scooping air. Those grooves are for air to escape not capture.
There is a few versions of the veins. Straight, forward and backward. Each manufacturer has their own instructions. One will say to put them forward, one will say backwards. The straight ones are self explanatory.
Авто/Мото
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Also with the pads, if there is uneven wear then you could have a warped rotor.
Also check both sides of the rotor for scores, which means that you either had contaminates between the pads and rotors, or you waited too long to change your pads.
Also make sure your caliper guide pins are lubed up
Great tips!
Thanks
My BMW manual says not to lube the pins. I guess that’s rare
Thanks man, super simple and informative🙏
Hey no worries! Be sure to subscribe for more tips & tricks. Thanks for watching!
Nice, id also just replace them if there is too much rust build up around the fins as they can prevent the rotor from dissipating the heat, rust being an insulator it could also cause abnormal pad wear.
If anything if you save your old pads and have at least 3mm on them you could temporarily use them until you get a proper brake job done. Having older cars you may have to replace the caliper or rubber lines as well.
Also forgot to mention if you're regularly checking your brakes and ensure the pads can move freely in their slides its easier to diagnose abnorma wear to the caliper itself or the rubber line.
If you ever hear grinding you also need rotors😂
Great point!
what about grinding and the brakes aren’t even applied, what could the rotor be scraping on? just replaced my pads and rotors about 2 months ago and they’re damn near almost gone on the back side of the rotor like it’s been rubbing this whole time while driving my truck, could it be a bad bearing?
wheel bearing*
@@SlimeDonDadacheck the sheild thats behind the rotor. Sometimes theres stuck rocks in there
GREAT ADVISE, WE APPRECIATE IT HIGHLY.
@@edwardmascarenas6517 you bet!
Get new rotors every time you do your brakes. It is best to have 2 brand new surfaces coming in contact with each other rather than an old rotor and new pads.
Completely unnecessary and a waste of time and money
What is this? A spending money contest?
@@kottyking waste of time? Brakes are a pretty important component to your vehicle.
@@NeverCloseToHome it only cost me 400$ for all 4 rotors and pads. I don’t think that is to bad since my rotors and pads lasted 100k
No bro u can FEEL it when stopping 😂
is it like an jerk feeling in the steering wheel?
Vibration in the pedal@@edwardlondon6463
@@edwardlondon6463warped rotors cause a vibration under hard braking. Usually felt in the steering wheel if the front is bad, or felt in the seat if the rear is bad. Can also cause a pulsation in the brake pedal
@@desmondhealy4827ya it’s annoying asf bc everytime u break u aren’t slowing down tht fast and it feels like ur cars bouta break
Happy New Year
👍
Brilliant video
Thank you! Happy new year to you as well!
Thanks, pal. New sub. Good luck!
Thank you!
9 times outa ten If I do pads I’ll do rotors to save headaches. Did mine few months ago now my calliper is ceased up lol
My mechanic told me, "I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder."
@@foxlake02 😂 that’s funny
rotor runnout (rotor flatness as you spin it) should be about 0.1mm (0.004in) or less
Helps Thanks
No worries!
inside always wears more, unless there is a vibration on your pedal disks are not needed
@@kevysrandomstuff5835 says who? Clown 🤡
You're only checking runout on one side of the rotor. What is 2 little clicks? If you don't have pulsation when stopping the rotors are not warped.
2 little clicks is "0.002" of an inch. I've never heard or seen someone checking for run out on both sides. If it's warped you only need to check one side. And pulsation when braking can be very subjective from one person to the next, always best to take a measurement. Hope that helps.
_”that needle should only move 1 (maybe 2) little clicks”_
Are you saying,
_’thousands of an inch’_
or
_’tenths of a millimeter’_ ?
thousands of an inch "0.001-0.002"
@@aiyogarage You, Sir, are appreciated 🙏
Thank you!@@emailformosa
Thanx brother
You bet!
When the pedal starts bouncing its time for new rotors
lol at that point you’ve probably needed rotors for sometime
Dammit man,,,thank u for advanced I'm responsible adult video
lol you bet
$250 for a full set of pads and rotors … might as well do all 4
Just depends on the person and their budget. A lot of people do not have $250 to spend on pads and rotors. Some people have families to feed. Important to keep in mind. Just trying to help inform
we use one of those in band mill grinding
Yeah it’s a great tool. I have a super cheap on. I’m sure you use something much more accurate
@@aiyogarage yes we do.
@@bigjolley6684 what brand. starrett?
@@aiyogarage yes sir starrett all we use. been a saw doctor for 3 years now love the trade
@@bigjolley6684 that’s awesome man. Good for you
I change the brakes as needed rotors be dammed.
Just here to help. You do you
@aiyogarage of course. I know what your saying. I'm not knocking you.
I just wait till I hear my pad grinding down the rotor then it’s time for new ones 🥱
@@livinglegend9564 😂
Where would you get all the tolerance specs though? Google does not like that question.
The tolerance will be in service data. Which you can get from AllData. If you absolutely cannot find a spec, good rule of thumb is no more than 0.002” or rotor run out. Hope that helps
That’s some kinda GM truck or SUV
I actually can’t recall which vehicle this is. But it wouldn’t surprise me if it was a GM or Chevy. They’re pretty popular in my area.
what / where is your run out gauge mounted to?
Typically I mount the run out gauge to what ever is near the rotor and stationary. Going to depend on the vehicle and the type of mount you have. Hope that helps
I cant seem to find someone that can answer my question so I'll ask you. Is it possible for a vehicle to not have rear brake pads and rotors? The other day I had to change a flat tire, and when i took off the tire, i noticed that there are no brake pads or rotors. Just the round wheel where the lugs are. I went and checked the front of my truck and the brake rotors dont look worn out. Im not having any issues with brakes at all. But i just thought it was odd that my truck doesn't have rear brakes. Is that possible? Or am i missing something? Like i said, I'm just curious. And google isn't answering my question.
Wow that’s an interesting scenario. Without knowing the history of the vehicle, I would imagine at some point someone changed out the rear differential assembly. And the brakes on the one they switched it out with, either weren’t included or didn’t match up somehow. My guess is that it had drum brakes at some point in the rear. Might be worth some investigating, and seeing if there’s anything remaining of the old brake system. And, it probably wouldn’t be a bad idea to start figuring out how to get a brake system restored to the rear of the vehicle. It is your brakes after all.
@@aiyogarage It's a 2005 Chevy Silverado 1500 extended cab. I purchased it in 2014. I had it for 10 years already and I have only had the brake pads and rotors changed in it once. That was like 2 years ago. I have never had brake issues. I just thought it was weird that it doesn't have rear brakes. Neither does my 2001 Toyota Corolla. I also bought it used, but it brakes fine. I was just wondering if it's something I should even worry about since I don't have braking issues.
@@Tomas-gd6lk only thing that comes to mind is wearing out your front brakes much faster
Are you sure they don't both have drum brakes on the rear?
I'm pretty sure your vehicle has drum brakes instead of the typical disc brakes you're used to seeing. So instead of having a disc/rotor with caliper containing brake pads, there's a drum enclosing all the brake hardware. If you pull the drum out, which can only be done when the parking brake isn't engaged, you'll see a pair of brake shoes connected to a wheel cylinder.
I recommend learning about drum brakes if you're still not following. Hopefully that helps you out
I just got my brakes and rotors replaced like 2 years ago . I was just told my rotors have excessive grooves the brakes are fine . How is this possible? Could it be a case of up selling me or how can new rotors have excessive grooves , meaning, they may need replacement already? I got oem parts too.
Could a bad installation cause this? I really am confused about that assessment
Honestly without taking a look myself I wouldn’t be able to tell you. If they do have excessive grooves they are in need of replacement. I would as of a photo or video of your brakes as proof. Hope that helps
Yeah they gave a photo, I lens I can see it but I wouldn’t know if it’s excessive or normal myself . It’s just weird to me that it would be excessive in a short time frame , My last rotors lasted like years and years. I barely have driven since I got these installed
@@heythere6983 could be an issue with calipers sticking or slide pins that weren’t greased properly. Those can both cause pre mature brake pad ware
Ok thanks I’ll see if I can take it to someone to double check . Can calipers be lightly sanded to fix grooves if it isn’t too bad?
I’m thinking if there is something off maybe I can fix that and then condition the rotors if it’s a little wear instead of buy new ones all over. I had a friend who’s a mechanic instal em outs his garage but maybe he messed something up
Calipers can not be sanded. The brake system needs to be inspected by a professional for inspection. I would recommend a second opinion on why the system failed prematurely if you're this concerned. @@heythere6983
Hi what is that noise when you turn the wheel? Thx
Low power steering fluid possibly
Would a warped, rotor, cause, crazy, squeaking, accelerating, and or pressing on the break I know that I have a warped rotor. I am just wondering if this is the problem because I have a crazy squeak but I also just replaced my control arm and tire rod but I know that my rotors are warped and I’m wondering if that’s what causing that crazy squeak? Also when I’m coming to a stop like 10 to 0 my car some wet rocks. Back-and-forth around the 5 to 0 Mark. It’s very very light, but it’s noticeable when you go from second gear to neutral, and just ride it out on the brakes
I think it would be a good idea to get it checked out by your local shop
Are Duralast rotors any good, how bout NAPA pads as well?
I love duralast gold! Great product!
Duralast rotors are not great. I've seen many with surface layer fractures after low miles.
Napa batteries are crap. Napa brake pads are fine if you get ceramics. Stay away from BrakeBest at oh oh oh really.
One-side I did Duralast, holding up OK so far, the rest of the brakes and rotors I did OEM more $ but hopefully better results, seems like more brake dust with NAPA pads thus far
@@ScottieBMan yeah I’ve never had a problem with aftermarket pads and rotors
Pad swap gang gang
Go for it
"click"
Learned that from AVE.
What if both front rotors wobble?
If you’ve done your measurements correctly it would indicate both rotors are warped
If they don't shake when I break at high speeds I don't change
That’s cool. I’m sure you’ll live a long time
@@aiyogarage sorry but warped rotors will not lower your life expectancy
@@shadowman1992 i used to think the same shit until my rotor broke into pieces and jammed itself on the inside of my rim. It completely locked up an entire wheel and sent the car sliding into trees at over 120. Save yourself a totaled car and permanent back pain.
@da_poopoo_dealer3152 how fast were you driving wow !?
@@shadowman1992he literally said 120 lol
Its almost like you rushed to bring this video together
Is it normal to hear that rubbing noise when rotating then rotor?
Assuming that was your pads?
Yes a slight drag from the pads when you first pull the tire is normal
A good padswaper would check it with the thumb. Be a man.
lol I like your style
Grease your bearings
You what else you can use, your eyes!
Lemme know how that works out for you
If the surface of the rotor that the pad presses against is rusty, they need replaced?
It’s common for rotors to get rusty when a car sits. As long as the rust doesn’t show signs of pitting or cracking, it should just come off when you’re driving.
Those rotors are on backwards. I know it seems to make sense with how they are currently positioned because it would seem as though it’s scooping air. Those grooves are for air to escape not capture.
There is a few versions of the veins.
Straight, forward and backward.
Each manufacturer has their own instructions.
One will say to put them forward, one will say backwards. The straight ones are self explanatory.
i didnt think rotors were left or right. only one part #. so u can't put them on backwards.
Only slotted rotors are directional. Thank you
Nice....but not everyone as, Or know how 2 use those tools, not everyone work in a shop
Just putting the information out there
That doesnt really tell you where the gauge is mounted to. Bad video.
It depends on the made and model of the car. It’s going to be different every time. Bad comment.
@@aiyogarage 😆