I lost count of how many pieces of invaluable info you dropped in this video. Wow. This man has in-depth knowledge of the Superduty fuel supply system.
Thanks for your excellent video. After seeing it I went ahead and dropped the tank on my 2006 F350,. Found that the pickup foot had broken off, the vent tubes were very deteriorated, and there was a 3-inch blob of water in the tank. After getting the tank cleaned out and put back together, I ran a 3/8" fuel hose between the two tank vents. I put a tee fitting in the middle of the hose, oriented horizontally and located at a high point right below the bed. To the tee fitting's side branch I attached an ell fitting aimed downward, to help keep water out.
Well, my pick-up in the fuel take fell off/broke apart. Somehow found the entire Motorcraft Sending unit for $96 on Amazon because someone received it with damaged packaging. It turned out not being the correct part because it was for a 38 gallon tank where I have the 29 gallon tank. So, I did just as you did and I pulled the sending unit, wiring and pickup and put on the original! Works Great! Thank you for this Video!
I just responded to another comment where the person was not able to place his comment, and I think it was to this. Amazon has a problem with counterfeit parts, so you need to be prudent
@@toomanytoys that was the one, let’s see if this comment goes thru. Was just trying to warn people when I can to be careful on there cause their are a lot of deep fakes, packaging, printing and even stamping of part numbers on the products. Maybe my previous mention of brands and website got flagged before, why my comment wouldn’t work
That was my truck on the tow hook, he pulled it with the 5th wheel connected. It’s now working well with the sump installed. Good video TMT. Complete and detailed 👍
Dang these videos are super good. I need to drop the tank on my 03 7.3, I believe the pickup is broken, and runs out of fuel at 1/8 tank. As usual, super solid, concise, clear and ultra detailed. It's like national geographic for old heui pickups. Excellent work once again sir! One of the best channels on RUclips, hands down. Glad I found it!
HUGE fan of your uploads! The thorough explanation and attention to detail really speaks to me. Further, that retrofit of the level sender is SMART and cost efficient. We'll see you on the next one. :) Looks like it'll be Grilled Cheese for me at breakfast tomorrow morning. :P
Oh no sweat, thanx for all your help. I can assure you that it was the fix. I tested without and with the added resistor and nothing else was done between the problem existing and the problem disappearing. I know it seems bizarre, but nothing else can really explain the results. I guarantee if I took that resistor out it would reappear. The thing I was thinking you might have access to is some comprehensive list or other source of what are all the things that cause limp mode, and does that cause the RPM fluctuations. Because that seems like a strange effect of limp mode. All said and done, I am stoked to watch your videos, get pointed in the direction I went, and be able to make it work. I did see one supposed Ford description saying limp mode cuts out injectors to protect them, and the guy on the forum said that the PCM does initiate it when the tank is well below the low fuel indicator coming on. You are the only one I know that digs deep enough on these types of things. Another rabbit hole, eh? Two more things…you are behind on your video editing because of your massive attention to detail and high quality standards, and “Won’t Get Fooled Again” is a KILLER TUNE!
Wow! I watched your video all the way to the end You did great job working on your fuel tank 👏🏾 I like the way you explained everything, thank you so much for sharing with us a great video of how we should take care purr truck You did everything manually and smartly 👌🏾 I have a float problem in my f250 04 6.0 and I might be doing the job myself in the same way you did it 👍🏾 May God bless you so much 🙏🏾 Oscar Barrientos From Jax Beach FL
i'd rather buy somemones 6.0 thats not Listed as "bullet proof" but TooManyToys follow along project. im selling my new 4th gen 6.7 powerstroke and keeping my 2005 Harley Davidson F250. the new truck has barely any miles and has been down for half the time i've owned it. the 6.0 broke on me once. Chaffed inside the main wiring harness. 1000 dollars and an afternoon. fixed the issue. new truck has half the mpg highway and even less towing. less power too. and i gotta wait for warranty to come around to do weight reduction for longevity. i plan on Adding a Third Battery to my truck soon with E series Van battery box. it mounts to the frame plus the ground upgrades you've mentioned in prior videos.
I've helped someone do that in the past (6-7 years ago) and it works very well. I will be making a video about adding a third battery in the future, along with another version of it. But it takes me a long time between doing the work and publishing a video. I bought the battery box years ago.
Justin, I found the thread where Randy, also an HD owner, set this up. There is another thread where he and I talked about it, but I can't find it. We used to talk a lot in private messages, too, so maybe that was where it was. But anyway, the thread if it helps you, 'cause my video will take too long. www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1464249-3rd-battery-you-bet-frame-mounted-installation.html
@@toomanytoys i had a question regarding the EGR set up. Should I direct the question here or on the egr video. Only wrote the question here as it was posted a few weeks ago. Thank in advance for the help
@@emilioramirez9819 Do it in the EGR video as a new comment. Many times comments are missed when they are secondary comments like this, we just don't see them if we go through new comments in the Creator Studio app.
Cool, thanx. I'm replacing my sender like you did except I got one from eBay for an Explorer or Mercury Mountaineer. Same exact mounting and locating pins as you pointed out. The ohmage sweep is 10 to 140, but I noticed that in your demonstration, there was little movement of the float arm between 140 and 160 ohms, and with 10 ohms at the bottom end, it will simply read empty a bit early. Fuel gauges aren't exactly delineated in ounces anyway. It was $30, and for $33 you can get an ohmage range matching device expressly for this purpose that is simple to wire in, if I wanted to get it exact. Also, another question, though it may sound silly. The fuel goes through the primary filter in the HFCM before it goes through the pump impeller itself, yes? I had a few 1/8 inch size bits of debris in the bottom of the tank, and the screen had fallen out of the pickup foot, so I'll blow out the lines from the tank, and check the water drain port, but was worried about any other places they might get lodged in the HFCM. Also, my vent tubes were crumbling to dust, and the metal connector tube is corroded, so, not remembering you replaced them with hose the whole length eliminating the metal tube, I decided to run a hose the whole way too. In addition, I'm using polyolefin shrink tubing, as it is highly resistive to all types of fuel, and McMasters wanted $61 to ship 6 inches of the 1/4 ID you used to Hawaii. Anyway, thanx for the great videos, you are on another level compared to any other auto mechanics utubers for sure. I used to work at a machine shop that did all the work for the San Diego city bus system.
Thanks for your comments. Yeah, I would not have bought the McMaster product at that shipping cost either. Other than the lines. the other place you could get the small particles caught is the one-way valve located in the HFCM to prevent flow when the filter is being changed. It's got a blue spring and you can see it on the right side of the chamber. Something caught there can be sweeped out, just don't bend the spring too much. I show it in the HFCM video I made.
I just waited til the low fuel dash light came on. Then I dropped the tank. Incidentally, there was exactly 7 gals. left which is nice to know if I'm ever in a pinch.
The oem Ford foot screen is readily available in stock from both Tasca parts and Riff Raff diesel online, just for anyone wondering (at the time of this writing) haha
It comes and goes depending on stock. I would purchase one when they are available because the pattern is they are not available for a few months over the past two years.
Awesome video, really good information here. I work on these trucks all the time. I was seeking info like this once when I was replacing a sending unit for a friend. It must have been before your video was posted because at the time I felt like I was spending too much time figuring something out for fuel level sensor replacement so we just ended up getting the whole unit from ford. Not gonna do that anymore. Also, are your replies being limited on other comments? I was trying to chime in on someone’s amazon find but trying to warn everyone that there are a lot of counterfeit parts, especially motorcraft, on amazon, beware everyone.
Thanks. The only control I have set is for inappropriate comments, as for kids. I started my motorhead journey before I was a teenager, so I'm trying to allow their viewing. But nothing else. Maybe YT's AI interpreted something, but I really don't know for sure. On the other hand, there may be a control that I am unaware of, but I have not made any other changes from the YT standards.
Great video Jack. Upon inspection of my bed rails. One of my tank straps are about to snap. Long story short. Bed is setting on top of fuel tank. The rubber line is crushed and plastic tee. Where did you get that plastic vapor tee? I bought a HFCM months ago. So, I'm going to relocate and replace metal lines with Gates. I'm going to harpoon my tank also. As I did on my 2000 7.3 while I have the bed off welding new bed support rails. Thanks in advance. Ed!
Hey, Eddy. My plastic tee and the cap were on the truck. I could never find a part number to put into the video. As you saw, I replaced the tee with brass and used the original cap on the hose. If the cap is lost, it's really a U-trap. You could run a hose in the gap between the bed and the cab or to the area by the fuel filler. I need to do my rails too. That old truck needs a lot of rust repair.
@@toomanytoys I hear ya there. My old 96 F250 HD has NO rust on it at all! Bed rails included! My old reliable 460 gasser! Just fluìds, gas, tires and pads.. It's just a shame the the automakers have all gone on the cheap for everything. Guy in Indiana is buying it. Anyway, looks like the cap is still attached to the tee. I'll just swap a brass hose barb on it and call it day. How is your truck running? Take care Ole friend. Keep those videos coming. Ed
Well, I got the tank clean and replaced the breather hose. Blew out the supply line between the pump and tank. Now the engine idles fine, starts fine, does not die, but when the RPMs get over about 1,000-1,100, sitting out of gear or driving, the engine drops rpms every 3-4 seconds for about 1 second, then comes right back. Revs up out of gear no sweat, has all normal power etc. between the drops.Fuel pressure is 65-70 lbs consistently, everything else looks good. I have a Scangauge II, and there are no unusual readings.I disconnected the vent tube and no improvement. Drained the water drain, and checked the primary filter, nothing except some amber colored bits and a few flakes of rust looking stuff. Drained it a second time. Still getting the RPM drops every few seconds. I'm at a loss here, and would appreciate any advice. I unplugged the ICP sensor, still no improvement. The only thing (I think I notice is possibly not as much turbo boost on hard acceleration and the pressure bleed after shutting down sounds a bit louder. Where does that pressure bleed come from, because it sounds like it is coming from the intercooler, and I don't remember it coming from there before. Can you please help?
Sorry, I wasn't on YT until tonight. I see by your other post it seems to be solved. Not sure that was the solution though, the PCM does not use the fuel level as a control.
First, another great production. The highlight for me was using the new 98 sender board on your existing pickup, saving money. I like affordable options. Only thing I don't know if you addressed was the vent hose drooping down. The hose should be ran along the top of the tank in order to have proper drain back. If left drooped, it potentially will fill with fuel. There are conditions if this occurred it may burp fuel out of the vent. This is my opinion. What think you?
An excellent point to bring up, Pete. There is enough give in the drooped hose that it could be brought up to the top of the rail. But the factory steel line runs in the lower area of the frame channel and drops lower when it crosses a frame cross member on my truck. So when the tank is in its installed position, the factory steel line is below the vents. Here is a link to an image of it when I repaired the brake line behind the tank years ago. www.powerstroke.org/media/2052178390030312918dsfdvx_fs-jpg.107711/full And the view of the top of the tank installed in relation to the rail. www.powerstroke.org/media/filltubecloseup_1_4ab3f460561673ceb5453651725f9a71900e3031-jpg.107712/full That said, the idea of putting the hose above the frame rail sounds good. When I did the vent hose on the '01 7.3, I never had any fuel leak out of the tank.
I was thinking the same thing when I saw the hose taped to the side of the tank, but now that TMT mentioned it, the position of the metal line in relation to the tank when installed, I see that it does dip down in the frame rail. Sometimes it takes a second thought, or a third.
What size hose for the fuel lines. Was that 1/4 inch also or did u mention 3/8. Did u use same hose since the suction and return are two different sizes? I have dropped tank several times. The tank is clear and the sending unit is clear. Foot has been modified to not drop the screen insert. But hoses were “repaired” before I bought the truck. They were spliced and i feel that they are creating a restriction and possibly have some of the disintegrated foot sucked up in it. Anyway want to replace the lines from the tank to the HFCM. I did find foot debris inside the HFCM manifold inside the suction intake line.
Could you post or send me a list of everything you used parts-wise in this video? I’m about to undertake this job on my 04 and want to have everything in order before I begin. Thanks for the great video as always
The sender part number is shown in the video, F81Z9A299AG. The diesel fuel line hoses are 1/4" and 5/16" from NAPA. I purchase 10ft at a time because of all my needs, home, and farm, so I can't give you how much I used on the tank, except the 1/4" is about 2". I also have multiples of the brass 5/16" tees from McMaster, 91355K52, but you would be better off only buying one from ACE hardware, Home Depot, etc.
The electrical diagram was from an official Ford service manual DVD. Often you can find them on eBay but you need to make sure you get one of the original ones that show the Ford face on the DVD.
Love it. My fuel gauge is not the most accurate, often seeming stuck and then skipping down in steps as I drive. Now I think I know why. Out of curiosity, do you add fuel treatments to your diesel (e.g. Marvel mystery oil) to perhaps account for why (for example) your pickup foot deicing valve was still in such good shape? Also, your thoughts on using this opportunity to swap out your OEM filter with a Fass or like minded fuel pumps or do you prefer OEM? Good job as always.
For stock programming and injectors, the stock setup is fine and well designed in its application. It's the reason I went deep in my video of the HFCM. When I get this on the road and with the HFCM intake port opened up, I want to see if the fuel pressure holds up better at WOT than the stock setup. Mark (Bismic) and I have discussed why both of our "feet," his I believe is a '06, have held up. Neither of us has used many fuel enhancements, so that might be why. Or, as he stated, there may have been a bad batch of products with off-spec raw ingredients; both of us in our respective industries have dealt with that. When the fuel level gets wonky, it's usually the sender. Some have cleaned it with alcohol and say it's better, but I thought it was just worn when I looked at mine.
It could be the pump, a short in the wiring, or the relay in the fuse box is blown. If the fuse blows every time you turn the key to wait to start, unplug the inertia switch at the passenger footwell and see if the fuse blows again at wait to start. If it does, then it's most likely the embedded relay.
That depends on how locked in the bed bolts are. If you are in the rust belt as I am, those usually don't screw out, require grinding the bolt heads off, lifting the bed then cutting off the captured nut retainer. If you can get the one-time use bolts out easily, then no big deal. We removed dozens of beds from new and used trucks at work. They were not all easy, even when new. With my truck, no, taking the bed bolts out would not have been the easier path.
Delphi would be an aftermarket brand, I would not touch it. These are hard to get these days. A few rear Ford dealers on eBay and show them, typically in the $55-60 range. But you also can go to the dealer's site and order from there. Gene Musser Ford; Ford Parts Giant; I got mine from Quirk Ford in MA through eBay.
Alrighty then. I searched Utube for an hour and a half last night, no videos on a 6.0 losing RPMs every few seconds above 1,100. Lost roughly 200-300 each time, real consistent driving or revving when parked. So I did a web search, and one guy said he had a duplicate problem. His happened after letting the fuel run lower after the low fuel indicator came on. I had just dropped my tank and did basically what Toomanytoys did, except I used a sending reostat from a Mercury Mountaneer/Ford Explorer. The ohmage sweep read 10-140 ohms until I got it mounted in, then went to 7-140. I guess I didn’t bench test it carefully enough. Sorry, some redundancy here from other posts of mine here. I also used polyolefin shrink tubing, as many web pages espouse it’s resistance to chemicals and all types of fuels. So I get it in, the mounting clips and locating pins being identical to my 2006 Powerstroke existing one like TMTs. The part number was different on the reostat. We did the oil and filter, shocks and suspension stops, trani fluid and filters, oil cooler back flush, coolant flush with Ford C9 iron cleaner, steering dampner replacement, all four shocks..well, I digress. So I start it up with 10 gallons of fuel, and the gauge reading very very low. Then I noticed the symptoms, checked the water drain and fuel pressure again, fretted and mulled, finally found the mention of low fuel causing the “limp mode” and symptoms on the web mentioned above, found some, though VERY little, corroborating info on the web. Then more mulling…so maybe my problem was the 7 ohms when empty instead of 15. Next morning, today, I tried unplugging the sender, no improvement. Even though the meter read 30 ohms with 10 gallons. So I put a 30 ohm resistor in the circuit, got 48 ohms (?) but presto change-o, the symptoms went away. Whew! It’s running normally now, though a bit of sticktion when cold still. Funny, the first time I started it yesterday there was none at all. So thanx to all the Utube guys, especially TMT, for leading me down this rabbit hole!!!! The reostat was $30 on EBay, and the resistor and shrink tubing were $3. The gauge reads almost exactly correct now. Later I may get the gauge/sending unit ohmage matching device specifically for this purpose, but for now it looks like the gauge will read very close to, if not exactly, correctly. Thanx again buddy, and keep those excellent videos coming!!
No, Vincent, it is the fuel level sending unit with the float. Here is a direct link to it: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=515424&cc=1414909&pt=4436&jsn=1
I lost count of how many pieces of invaluable info you dropped in this video. Wow. This man has in-depth knowledge of the Superduty fuel supply system.
Glad it was helpful! I've played with these too much. LOL.
Thanks for your excellent video. After seeing it I went ahead and dropped the tank on my 2006 F350,. Found that the pickup foot had broken off, the vent tubes were very deteriorated, and there was a 3-inch blob of water in the tank. After getting the tank cleaned out and put back together, I ran a 3/8" fuel hose between the two tank vents. I put a tee fitting in the middle of the hose, oriented horizontally and located at a high point right below the bed. To the tee fitting's side branch I attached an ell fitting aimed downward, to help keep water out.
Thanks for your comment. Good proactive move, sir. I'm glad to hear you caught the issue before it caused you a problem.
Very in depth analysis with inventive problem solving makes this video a must watch for anyone tackling the 6.0 fuel tank. Thank you.
Thank you for your compliment.
Well, my pick-up in the fuel take fell off/broke apart. Somehow found the entire Motorcraft Sending unit for $96 on Amazon because someone received it with damaged packaging. It turned out not being the correct part because it was for a 38 gallon tank where I have the 29 gallon tank. So, I did just as you did and I pulled the sending unit, wiring and pickup and put on the original! Works Great! Thank you for this Video!
Thanks. I'm glad it helped in some manner.
I just responded to another comment where the person was not able to place his comment, and I think it was to this. Amazon has a problem with counterfeit parts, so you need to be prudent
@@toomanytoys that was the one, let’s see if this comment goes thru. Was just trying to warn people when I can to be careful on there cause their are a lot of deep fakes, packaging, printing and even stamping of part numbers on the products. Maybe my previous mention of brands and website got flagged before, why my comment wouldn’t work
That was my truck on the tow hook, he pulled it with the 5th wheel connected. It’s now working well with the sump installed. Good video TMT. Complete and detailed 👍
Thanks Eric. And thanks for letting me include your story to get the point home.
Dang these videos are super good. I need to drop the tank on my 03 7.3, I believe the pickup is broken, and runs out of fuel at 1/8 tank. As usual, super solid, concise, clear and ultra detailed.
It's like national geographic for old heui pickups.
Excellent work once again sir! One of the best channels on RUclips, hands down. Glad I found it!
Thank you very much. I've been hampered getting more of these out, but hope I can change that soon.
HUGE fan of your uploads! The thorough explanation and attention to detail really speaks to me.
Further, that retrofit of the level sender is SMART and cost efficient.
We'll see you on the next one. :)
Looks like it'll be Grilled Cheese for me at breakfast tomorrow morning. :P
Thanks, and enjoy!
Sir, you are so very thorough on all your videos, thank you so very much!
Thanks, Dane.
Oh no sweat, thanx for all your help. I can assure you that it was the fix. I tested without and with the added resistor and nothing else was done between the problem existing and the problem disappearing. I know it seems bizarre, but nothing else can really explain the results. I guarantee if I took that resistor out it would reappear. The thing I was thinking you might have access to is some comprehensive list or other source of what are all the things that cause limp mode, and does that cause the RPM fluctuations. Because that seems like a strange effect of limp mode. All said and done, I am stoked to watch your videos, get pointed in the direction I went, and be able to make it work. I did see one supposed Ford description saying limp mode cuts out injectors to protect them, and the guy on the forum said that the PCM does initiate it when the tank is well below the low fuel indicator coming on. You are the only one I know that digs deep enough on these types of things. Another rabbit hole, eh? Two more things…you are behind on your video editing because of your massive attention to detail and high quality standards, and “Won’t Get Fooled Again” is a KILLER TUNE!
Wow! I watched your video all the way to the end
You did great job working on your fuel tank 👏🏾
I like the way you explained everything, thank you so much for sharing with us a great video of how we should take care purr truck
You did everything manually and smartly 👌🏾
I have a float problem in my f250 04 6.0 and I might be doing the job myself in the same way you did it 👍🏾
May God bless you so much 🙏🏾
Oscar Barrientos
From Jax Beach FL
Thank you for the comment. I try to put as much detail into these as I can.
i'd rather buy somemones 6.0 thats not Listed as "bullet proof" but TooManyToys follow along project. im selling my new 4th gen 6.7 powerstroke and keeping my 2005 Harley Davidson F250. the new truck has barely any miles and has been down for half the time i've owned it. the 6.0 broke on me once. Chaffed inside the main wiring harness. 1000 dollars and an afternoon. fixed the issue. new truck has half the mpg highway and even less towing. less power too. and i gotta wait for warranty to come around to do weight reduction for longevity.
i plan on Adding a Third Battery to my truck soon with E series Van battery box. it mounts to the frame plus the ground upgrades you've mentioned in prior videos.
I've helped someone do that in the past (6-7 years ago) and it works very well. I will be making a video about adding a third battery in the future, along with another version of it. But it takes me a long time between doing the work and publishing a video. I bought the battery box years ago.
Justin, I found the thread where Randy, also an HD owner, set this up. There is another thread where he and I talked about it, but I can't find it. We used to talk a lot in private messages, too, so maybe that was where it was.
But anyway, the thread if it helps you, 'cause my video will take too long.
www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1464249-3rd-battery-you-bet-frame-mounted-installation.html
@@toomanytoys i had a question regarding the EGR set up. Should I direct the question here or on the egr video. Only wrote the question here as it was posted a few weeks ago. Thank in advance for the help
@@emilioramirez9819 Do it in the EGR video as a new comment. Many times comments are missed when they are secondary comments like this, we just don't see them if we go through new comments in the Creator Studio app.
This guy is a true master
Thanks. Just old with a lot of experience, so I've learned to do it to. the best of my ability.
Cool, thanx. I'm replacing my sender like you did except I got one from eBay for an Explorer or Mercury Mountaineer. Same exact mounting and locating pins as you pointed out. The ohmage sweep is 10 to 140, but I noticed that in your demonstration, there was little movement of the float arm between 140 and 160 ohms, and with 10 ohms at the bottom end, it will simply read empty a bit early. Fuel gauges aren't exactly delineated in ounces anyway. It was $30, and for $33 you can get an ohmage range matching device expressly for this purpose that is simple to wire in, if I wanted to get it exact. Also, another question, though it may sound silly. The fuel goes through the primary filter in the HFCM before it goes through the pump impeller itself, yes? I had a few 1/8 inch size bits of debris in the bottom of the tank, and the screen had fallen out of the pickup foot, so I'll blow out the lines from the tank, and check the water drain port, but was worried about any other places they might get lodged in the HFCM. Also, my vent tubes were crumbling to dust, and the metal connector tube is corroded, so, not remembering you replaced them with hose the whole length eliminating the metal tube, I decided to run a hose the whole way too. In addition, I'm using polyolefin shrink tubing, as it is highly resistive to all types of fuel, and McMasters wanted $61 to ship 6 inches of the 1/4 ID you used to Hawaii. Anyway, thanx for the great videos, you are on another level compared to any other auto mechanics utubers for sure. I used to work at a machine shop that did all the work for the San Diego city bus system.
Thanks for your comments. Yeah, I would not have bought the McMaster product at that shipping cost either.
Other than the lines. the other place you could get the small particles caught is the one-way valve located in the HFCM to prevent flow when the filter is being changed. It's got a blue spring and you can see it on the right side of the chamber. Something caught there can be sweeped out, just don't bend the spring too much. I show it in the HFCM video I made.
YOU ALWAYS MAKE VERY GOOD AND INFORMATIVE VIDEOS.....KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK.....
Thanks, will do!
good video my friend thanks for sharing this video bless you and your family from NJ
Thank you! You too!
I just waited til the low fuel dash light came on. Then I dropped the tank. Incidentally, there was exactly 7 gals. left which is nice to know if I'm ever in a pinch.
That's good to know for anyone reading your comment. Thanks.
As always, excellent content.
Much appreciated!
The oem Ford foot screen is readily available in stock from both Tasca parts and Riff Raff diesel online, just for anyone wondering (at the time of this writing) haha
It comes and goes depending on stock. I would purchase one when they are available because the pattern is they are not available for a few months over the past two years.
therockkkkher says thumbs up to this great man !!!
LOL, thanks.
Awesome video, really good information here. I work on these trucks all the time. I was seeking info like this once when I was replacing a sending unit for a friend. It must have been before your video was posted because at the time I felt like I was spending too much time figuring something out for fuel level sensor replacement so we just ended up getting the whole unit from ford. Not gonna do that anymore. Also, are your replies being limited on other comments? I was trying to chime in on someone’s amazon find but trying to warn everyone that there are a lot of counterfeit parts, especially motorcraft, on amazon, beware everyone.
Thanks. The only control I have set is for inappropriate comments, as for kids. I started my motorhead journey before I was a teenager, so I'm trying to allow their viewing. But nothing else. Maybe YT's AI interpreted something, but I really don't know for sure. On the other hand, there may be a control that I am unaware of, but I have not made any other changes from the YT standards.
Once again good info
Thanks.
Great video Jack. Upon inspection of my bed rails. One of my tank straps are about to snap. Long story short. Bed is setting on top of fuel tank. The rubber line is crushed and plastic tee. Where did you get that plastic vapor tee? I bought a HFCM months ago. So, I'm going to relocate and replace metal lines with Gates. I'm going to harpoon my tank also. As I did on my 2000 7.3 while I have the bed off welding new bed support rails. Thanks in advance. Ed!
Hey, Eddy. My plastic tee and the cap were on the truck. I could never find a part number to put into the video. As you saw, I replaced the tee with brass and used the original cap on the hose. If the cap is lost, it's really a U-trap. You could run a hose in the gap between the bed and the cab or to the area by the fuel filler.
I need to do my rails too. That old truck needs a lot of rust repair.
@@toomanytoys I hear ya there. My old 96 F250 HD has NO rust on it at all! Bed rails included! My old reliable 460 gasser! Just fluìds, gas, tires and pads.. It's just a shame the the automakers have all gone on the cheap for everything. Guy in Indiana is buying it. Anyway, looks like the cap is still attached to the tee. I'll just swap a brass hose barb on it and call it day.
How is your truck running?
Take care Ole friend. Keep those videos coming.
Ed
@@eddylee587 It's doing fine. I'm not driving it much - the fuel price is too high, and at this time, I don't need the capacity.
Another great instructional video , keep up the good work -- Hydro
Thanks, will do!
Well, I got the tank clean and replaced the breather hose. Blew out the supply line between the pump and tank. Now the engine idles fine, starts fine, does not die, but when the RPMs get over about 1,000-1,100, sitting out of gear or driving, the engine drops rpms every 3-4 seconds for about 1 second, then comes right back. Revs up out of gear no sweat, has all normal power etc. between the drops.Fuel pressure is 65-70 lbs consistently, everything else looks good. I have a Scangauge II, and there are no unusual readings.I disconnected the vent tube and no improvement. Drained the water drain, and checked the primary filter, nothing except some amber colored bits and a few flakes of rust looking stuff. Drained it a second time. Still getting the RPM drops every few seconds. I'm at a loss here, and would appreciate any advice. I unplugged the ICP sensor, still no improvement. The only thing (I think I notice is possibly not as much turbo boost on hard acceleration and the pressure bleed after shutting down sounds a bit louder. Where does that pressure bleed come from, because it sounds like it is coming from the intercooler, and I don't remember it coming from there before. Can you please help?
Sorry, I wasn't on YT until tonight. I see by your other post it seems to be solved. Not sure that was the solution though, the PCM does not use the fuel level as a control.
First, another great production. The highlight for me was using the new 98 sender board on your existing pickup, saving money. I like affordable options.
Only thing I don't know if you addressed was the vent hose drooping down. The hose should be ran along the top of the tank in order to have proper drain back. If left drooped, it potentially will fill with fuel. There are conditions if this occurred it may burp fuel out of the vent. This is my opinion. What think you?
An excellent point to bring up, Pete. There is enough give in the drooped hose that it could be brought up to the top of the rail.
But the factory steel line runs in the lower area of the frame channel and drops lower when it crosses a frame cross member on my truck. So when the tank is in its installed position, the factory steel line is below the vents. Here is a link to an image of it when I repaired the brake line behind the tank years ago.
www.powerstroke.org/media/2052178390030312918dsfdvx_fs-jpg.107711/full
And the view of the top of the tank installed in relation to the rail.
www.powerstroke.org/media/filltubecloseup_1_4ab3f460561673ceb5453651725f9a71900e3031-jpg.107712/full
That said, the idea of putting the hose above the frame rail sounds good. When I did the vent hose on the '01 7.3, I never had any fuel leak out of the tank.
I was thinking the same thing when I saw the hose taped to the side of the tank, but now that TMT mentioned it, the position of the metal line in relation to the tank when installed, I see that it does dip down in the frame rail. Sometimes it takes a second thought, or a third.
WELL DONE !
Thanks, Bob
This is a great video
Thanks Chris. I appreciated it.
Can I have a video like this for every aspect of life
LOL. As you can tell from my late response, I'm often busy so they won't be coming from me.
What size hose for the fuel lines. Was that 1/4 inch also or did u mention 3/8. Did u use same hose since the suction and return are two different sizes? I have dropped tank several times. The tank is clear and the sending unit is clear. Foot has been modified to not drop the screen insert. But hoses were “repaired” before I bought the truck. They were spliced and i feel that they are creating a restriction and possibly have some of the disintegrated foot sucked up in it. Anyway want to replace the lines from the tank to the HFCM. I did find foot debris inside the HFCM manifold inside the suction intake line.
The feed line from the tank to the HFCM is 3/8", and the return line from the. HFCM to the tank is 5/16". Both are diesel-rated fuel hoses.
Could you post or send me a list of everything you used parts-wise in this video? I’m about to undertake this job on my 04 and want to have everything in order before I begin. Thanks for the great video as always
The sender part number is shown in the video, F81Z9A299AG. The diesel fuel line hoses are 1/4" and 5/16" from NAPA. I purchase 10ft at a time because of all my needs, home, and farm, so I can't give you how much I used on the tank, except the 1/4" is about 2". I also have multiples of the brass 5/16" tees from McMaster, 91355K52, but you would be better off only buying one from ACE hardware, Home Depot, etc.
@@toomanytoys Thanks so much! Always look forward to your videos, there are no more thorough videos on these trucks than the ones you make!
@@gabewall7381 Thanks, Gabe. I really appreciate that.
Thanks man for this inf
Your welcome.
Just curious but is that float material compatible with ULSD?unlike the coating inside those old style steel tanks
I've not seen any threads in the several forums I am on mention the float had degraded.
What hose for the breathers. Mines dryrotted.
I used a 1/4" diameter hose for all of it, with a 1/4" tee for the breather.
Thinking about it some more (it was 18 months ago), 1/4" was tight but doable. You might want to think about 5/16", too, once you get into it.
@toomanytoys awesome. thanks so much for the help. I'm getting my 6.0 back on the road after years of sitting, waiting to dump some money into her.
Good video, thanks.
You're welcome.
What is that tool you used to remove the black plastic ring on the sender unit? Thanks
I made that tool with spare metal I had around. But you can buy one - OEMTOOLS 25156.
At 2:55 in your video you show a print. Can you point me in the direction of purchasing such documentation?
The electrical diagram was from an official Ford service manual DVD. Often you can find them on eBay but you need to make sure you get one of the original ones that show the Ford face on the DVD.
Love it. My fuel gauge is not the most accurate, often seeming stuck and then skipping down in steps as I drive. Now I think I know why. Out of curiosity, do you add fuel treatments to your diesel (e.g. Marvel mystery oil) to perhaps account for why (for example) your pickup foot deicing valve was still in such good shape? Also, your thoughts on using this opportunity to swap out your OEM filter with a Fass or like minded fuel pumps or do you prefer OEM? Good job as always.
For stock programming and injectors, the stock setup is fine and well designed in its application. It's the reason I went deep in my video of the HFCM. When I get this on the road and with the HFCM intake port opened up, I want to see if the fuel pressure holds up better at WOT than the stock setup.
Mark (Bismic) and I have discussed why both of our "feet," his I believe is a '06, have held up. Neither of us has used many fuel enhancements, so that might be why. Or, as he stated, there may have been a bad batch of products with off-spec raw ingredients; both of us in our respective industries have dealt with that.
When the fuel level gets wonky, it's usually the sender. Some have cleaned it with alcohol and say it's better, but I thought it was just worn when I looked at mine.
Do you know why a 2005 Ford 6.0 fuel pump would keep blowing fuses ? Any ideas ?
It could be the pump, a short in the wiring, or the relay in the fuse box is blown. If the fuse blows every time you turn the key to wait to start, unplug the inertia switch at the passenger footwell and see if the fuse blows again at wait to start. If it does, then it's most likely the embedded relay.
@@toomanytoys Thank you. I'll check those and see what happens.
My question is wouldn't it be easier to remove the truck bed to access the tank.
That depends on how locked in the bed bolts are. If you are in the rust belt as I am, those usually don't screw out, require grinding the bolt heads off, lifting the bed then cutting off the captured nut retainer. If you can get the one-time use bolts out easily, then no big deal. We removed dozens of beds from new and used trucks at work. They were not all easy, even when new. With my truck, no, taking the bed bolts out would not have been the easier path.
Thank you Sir
Most welcome
Where did you get the new pickup foot? And do you think Delphi is a good brand?
Delphi would be an aftermarket brand, I would not touch it.
These are hard to get these days. A few rear Ford dealers on eBay and show them, typically in the $55-60 range. But you also can go to the dealer's site and order from there. Gene Musser Ford; Ford Parts Giant; I got mine from Quirk Ford in MA through eBay.
For those who don’t know, you can get an aftermarket fuel sender assembly on Amazon for $65 now. FINALLY
Let us know how that works out.
@@toomanytoys It's been holding up and accurate for about a month so far. I will report back If I have any issues with it.
Alrighty then. I searched Utube for an hour and a half last night, no videos on a 6.0 losing RPMs every few seconds above 1,100. Lost roughly 200-300 each time, real consistent driving or revving when parked. So I did a web search, and one guy said he had a duplicate problem. His happened after letting the fuel run lower after the low fuel indicator came on. I had just dropped my tank and did basically what Toomanytoys did, except I used a sending reostat from a Mercury Mountaneer/Ford Explorer. The ohmage sweep read 10-140 ohms until I got it mounted in, then went to 7-140. I guess I didn’t bench test it carefully enough. Sorry, some redundancy here from other posts of mine here. I also used polyolefin shrink tubing, as many web pages espouse it’s resistance to chemicals and all types of fuels. So I get it in, the mounting clips and locating pins being identical to my 2006 Powerstroke existing one like TMTs. The part number was different on the reostat. We did the oil and filter, shocks and suspension stops, trani fluid and filters, oil cooler back flush, coolant flush with Ford C9 iron cleaner, steering dampner replacement, all four shocks..well, I digress. So I start it up with 10 gallons of fuel, and the gauge reading very very low. Then I noticed the symptoms, checked the water drain and fuel pressure again, fretted and mulled, finally found the mention of low fuel causing the “limp mode” and symptoms on the web mentioned above, found some, though VERY little, corroborating info on the web. Then more mulling…so maybe my problem was the 7 ohms when empty instead of 15. Next morning, today, I tried unplugging the sender, no improvement. Even though the meter read 30 ohms with 10 gallons. So I put a 30 ohm resistor in the circuit, got 48 ohms (?) but presto change-o, the symptoms went away. Whew! It’s running normally now, though a bit of sticktion when cold still. Funny, the first time I started it yesterday there was none at all. So thanx to all the Utube guys, especially TMT, for leading me down this rabbit hole!!!! The reostat was $30 on EBay, and the resistor and shrink tubing were $3. The gauge reads almost exactly correct now. Later I may get the gauge/sending unit ohmage matching device specifically for this purpose, but for now it looks like the gauge will read very close to, if not exactly, correctly. Thanx again buddy, and keep those excellent videos coming!!
Ps176 is not the sending unit but the float only
No, Vincent, it is the fuel level sending unit with the float.
Here is a direct link to it:
www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=515424&cc=1414909&pt=4436&jsn=1
Very Good!... #94 ✝ {4-22-2024}
Thank you.
It baffles me that someone hasn’t made a metal version of that foot, since they break so much
The bottom of the tanks move based on the weight / amount of fuel in the tank, so they need to be able to accordion with that movement.