I really have no idea what is wrong with people on here giving this guy a hard time. Lime putty is absolutely ideal for applications such as finish plastering, creating mortars(with sand), filling hairline cracks etc etc etc..... when covered with water, lime putty mixed this way can be kept indefinitely and will not go hard unless it is exposed to CO2 naturally from the air. Make no mistake about it... this is by far the cheapest way of creating a multipurpose filler and quite frankly it's the best stuff for the job of filling holes in the walls etc. Because lime putty is flexible and drys very slowly it should not shrink or crack AND the stuff is flexible (reducing hairline cracks).. Also when used as a mortar... provided water is present it also self heals its own cracks!!! you'd be crazy not to use it for some applications where movement will happen. I bought a house that had old lime plaster on the walls and the previous owner basically just had a walls skimmed(finished) using gypsum. The problem with this method is that lime plaster is flexible by nature and gypsum is rigid with no flexibility... can you guess what happened to the gypsum finish on top of the lime? there were hairline crack all over the walls as the house naturally moved. I made myself some lime putty and went around all of the hairline cracks filling them in and now have zero problems 5 years on. If a new crack forms i just fill and paint again. It's a nightmare and the previous owner should have put a lime finish plaster on the walls (like for like). If the walls are lime plastered please don't use the modern plasters and use this stuff.by far the best way with the least amounts of headache. Greetings from England
I disagree. I think he has made lime putty there. Quicklime is chalk or a pure-ish limestone baked in a kiln to change it from calcium carbonate to calcium oxide.You just add water to quicklime to make putty. Although do it in a metal bucket, because it can get hot enough to boil. Hydrated lime is quicklime with a little water added already (to make calcium hydroxide), then re-powdered. Add that to water, I believe that you get to the same place, just without the violent reaction and having to let it mature in the bucket. Are you sure that you're not thinking of agricultural lime? That's just limestone powder, so you're right, that wouldn't make a putty. Or possibly hydraulic lime? That's kind of like quicklime with additives (that's not accurate, but it's easier than a full explanation) that makes it to set more like Portland cement (including setting underwater). I've never tried, but I guess that would just set to a solid lump in the bottom of the bucket.
@@michaeljamesdesign lime putty is by definition a paste of hydrated lime and water, whether the hydrated lime is produced by slaking quicklime yourself, or taking previously slaked, now dry, like and adding water to it, either way the result is a lime putty.
thanks Ryan - so much we need to learn about this. I have to say, the differences in terminology are so subtle - hydrated, hydraulic and non-hydraulic limes - but the differences so significant, this leads to some confusion I feel. But - as mentioned below - pozzolans etc will be an important part of learning about this building material and its properties
@@michaeljamesdesign how else do you make lime putty then? If you're disagreeing with this method, please clarify what you mean. This is what I've seen elsewhere also
@@michaeljamesdesign No offence intended, but you need to read more on this subject. He is making lime putty. English Heritage do an excellent 'bible' on the subject which I highly recommend.
I made lime putty from hydrated lime, left it in the bucket for at least a couple of weeks, then mixed it with 2 parts graded brick sand, 1 part riverbed sand and 1part lime putty. I repointed a hundred year old bluestone/basalt rock building with it. The result? It went as hard as nails! I had to be careful about the weather, not too damp, not too warm, always misting the work and checking for cracks especially when the weather was over 20 degrees centigrade. I did get some hairline cracking but I’m not bothered by it. Like many others, I did a lot of research on this subject to the point of confusion! Hydraulic lime is not readily available where I live. Hydrated lime is. I don’t know what the long term results of my work will be, but I’m happy with it now. It’s been six month since I started my work. Thank you for your video.
I enjoyed your video, and I thank you for sharing. To make your lime-putty-making experience easier, and with all due respect, the process does not require all of the equipment, effort, and mess that you show. All you have to do is put Hydrated lime in a bucket and gently pour water in to about about 6 inches above the lime (without splashing). I fill my pail with lime until it is about 7 inches below the rim, then add water until it comes up to about an inch below the rim. That's it. You don't have to stir it or do anything else. Just walk away and leave it alone. The lime will absorb all the water it needs to become putty and be ready to use in 24 hours. There won't be any lumps or areas of dry material in the putty. Of course, the extra water separates from the putty and sits on top. You can pour off the water when you're ready to use it, but it will last indefinitely as long as it is covered with water. Thank you. P.S. That drill and paddle would have come in handy when I added my sand to make my plaster mortar. :)
@@Kiansi1 I have a bucket of lime putty that I spent too much money on as I begin to restore my plaster walls and I want to paint using lime. There is so much confusion. Thanks for chiming in? What do you use it for? I have so much to learn.
@@karenflowers9711 I use mine for lime paint and patching my old plaster at the moment, but I have bigger plans ahead. I want to update the wiring in my 101-year old home and insulate the exterior walls, meaning that I will have to remove a lot of lath and plaster. I don't like drywall whatsoever, so I am going to replace my old lath & plaster walls with new lath & plaster walls (by myself!). I am so excited! I have a plaster recipe from Europe that is tried and true. They are using the recipe over there still to this day. Special thanks to Anglia Lime Company for sharing their recipe with me!!! I love that company! I might eventually travel to the U.K. and take one of their plastering classes (aver the pandemic is finally over).
Like putty is so superior to most other plastering materials, especially in moist environments like our 17th century house on cape cod. Thanks for this video which I check back with every time I need to mix up some putty. This time I'm doing 6 buckets so I have it lying around which is traditional in places where it's used all the time for everything - Portugal, uk, etc.
Very informative video, thanks. I made plaster of paris putty but that settles too quickly and adding vinegar to increase the settling time makes it weaker , I will try this lime putty now, seems to be good
I tried using hydrated lime from the lumber yard, the same hydrated lime available most places in my location. My results were mixed, and mostly unsatisfactory. Hydrated lime in bags available in my area is not intended for any specific use according to the label, which means that it may have a bunch of ingredients which, I suggest, make it unsatisfactory for use as a mortar. Note that the bag here is clearly marked "Morta Lok", which implies that it is intended for use as a mortar component. I can say with absolute certainty that plain Type S hydrated lime should only be used as an aggregate or pigment, and not as a the primary bonding or adhesive in a plaster coat or mortar. I suggest that if you are mixing plaster for walls or for masonry and if you want a white finish or very light colored finish, you should use Type N white masonry cement or, alternatively, white portland instead. These two white portland/masonry products are not normally available at a lumber yard, but at a supplier for masonry products or a concrete specialty supplier. They are way too expensive to have shipped. There are also dry mix tile adhesives that can be added to your mix with excellent results. Oh, and BTW, if you add portland or masonry cement, you have to use it relatively quickly. The mixture will harden and become unusable. It is also slightly more difficult to mix to the correct consistency for plastering.
Correct, if you are in the US our Type S hydrated lime cannot be effectively used to make so-called lime putty and lime mortar. It will eventually fail. So much disinformation promoting the use of Type S to make lime putty.
I think if you add in washed sand, and 5% diatomaceous earth silica, the white one that's been properly heated, it's a pozzolan and you will make a good mortar
thanks for the tip Forestfire - do you have a reference for this please? I will try - it appears diatamaceous earth is available for poultry and livestock supplies....
bassicly same resipie i used for cover coat in bases witch is rubble stone. for being just lime and sand morter it does set up fairly hard after 5- 6 mounths. by no means a structural grade lime but does slow water geten threw walls and has strength.
@@tomkosloski9766 add a pozzolan, like fine brick dust or crished/powered ceramics, or wood ash. If you burn ash twice it becomes mostly fine silica and more pozzolanic. Or if you have access finely ground pumice or volcanic ash. A modern pozzolan like metakaolin or silica fume will work amazingly. A 3:1:1 mix for example, or in different proportions. Be aware it will set more slowly than standard cement, but will make a harder more weather resistant pointing mortar. Experiment.
chinh luan no this is lime ‘ putty’ made out of ‘hydrated lime’ if you are making a mortar you can add sand. You have to know what ‘mix’ you need for your specific application. If you are a diy’er I suggest you gather as much information as you can about different types off lime, what that are used for, how they act and react with different environments and materials.
Yes you should be able to use this as a sort of plaster. I don't know exactly what mix you would want to use. I would think you would want to have some sand or other aggregate to give it some body. Also you may still want to paint as this will be porous when dry.
Great video! We are limewashing a 30 year old brick home and are having trouble with our lime putty. It keeps cracking and coming out of the grout lines do you know what were doing wrong? Also could this be used similar to the German schmear technique? The brick lines are deep and wanting to smooth it all off but keep having the cracking as mentioned above. Thanks!
Are you keeping the putty wet for a couple days after you install it? This type of mortar drys from evaporation not from chemical reaction like a Portland cement does. This means that if you do not keep the outside moist the mortar will dry a crust on the outside before the inside has a chance to dry out. This will lead to cracking.
@@aperturenow9125 Oh ok I didn't know that. Probably not the best time for us to be trying it out in 40 degree Celsius heat! Thank you so much for your reply, we will try again the the cooler months and keep it damp :)
Hi - I'm looking at sensible alternatives to adding texture to some (55 in fact, so, a lot),.. 40cm x 60cm art canvases but the cost of texture paste is, for me at least, exorbitant. Can you suggest a lime powder or putty which wouldn't cause too many problems, such as poor drying, problems with mixing and/or drying, poor adhesion to the canvas, (all primed), severe cracking etc... Could I use some PVA glue to add to it to keep it chemically stable and a bit more solid and yet flexible to allow for flexing of the canvas? How would I mix it? How long would it take to dry? *I'd not be using sand etc, but could I use some other powder to make it better or easier to work with or stronger or something? What other materials could I mix it with to aid its suitability for the 50 or so canvases I'll be working on? Will it (when dry) take paint and then a final, thin coat of water-based varnish? I hope you don't think I'm being too demanding for info,. I just don't want just paint on a canvas - it's far too boring; it needs texture, lots of texture (manually patterned or natural). :) Thanks in advance for at least reading this. :)
I'm about to undertake some renovations to a 1920's double brick house and was interested in you videos regarding lime putty mortar. 3 questions relating to making up the lime putty: 1) How long do you need to leave (if at all) the lime putty before if can be used in a mortar? I noticed you replied to someone that you left yours for about 2 weeks - any particular reason for the long wait? 2) Once made up and the bucket topped with water, is the water discarded before removing some of the putty (if yes, presumably the water is replaced when enough putty is used)? 3) Can you relocate putty from one bucket to another putty bucket (eg when one bucket is nearly empty and you'd like to reuse the bucket to make more putty)? Cheers
Steve Vardy Thanks for taking the time to watch. 1) the reason to leave the putty sit is just to make sure that it is uniformly hydrated. Which is a fancy way of saying there are no dry spots. If you use a Shovel to mix your putty this might be an issue however if you use a mixer paddle like I did it should be no issue. I let it sit 2weeks because that is how long it took for me to get back to the project you could probably use it as early as the next day and as late as a couple years after mixing it up. 2) Lime mortar sets from drying vs a cement mortar which sets via a chemical reaction. This means that as long as you can keep moisture in the putty it will never set, this is what the water on top is for. You are simply using it as a cap to keep the putty from setting. When you go to make you can pour off the water or just scoop through the water as it will not come out with the putty. 3) Yes you can mix different batches of putty into the same bucket no problem.
Hi Ben, thanks for your rapid reply - very much appreciated. The weather here (South Australia) is warm at the moment - 41deg yesterday, high 30's for the next week or so, and from your response drying shouldn't be an issue! Even though it's warm, I need to brick up a doorway and window (internal double brick) before I go back to work, so I'm happy I can use the putty (once mixed properly) in the next few days. Cheers
@@benhigginbotham9731 I don't think it setups from "drying" but rather from reacting to the CO2 in the air and converting back to a form of "lime stone"....
@@winkywoo5083 Winky you think correctly. Non-hydraulic limes set by CO2 just as you say. Hydraulic limes contain other substances (magnesium carbonate, aluminates, silicates etc) that set by exposure to moisture.
@@stevevardy8728 HI Steve - I'm interested in how your project is going, and your lime putty experiments? I'm also renovating a double-brick 1927 home (a california bungalow here in Goulburn NSW). All the internal walls are handmade bricks rendered with about 12mm original lime mortar, then a skim coat of lime plaster. I've had to remove a fair bit due to it being drummy. I want to reapply using lime mortar and then a breathable paint. I'd love to hear any tips and tricks from you, TIA
Awesome videos! Hoping for your help. I'd like to use lime putty as you've done it, instead of tiles on the floor and walls of the bathroom (not in the shower). Can I approach it in the same way that you have, with hydrated lime and water? I tried reaching out to Carmeuse, but they referred me to their site, which wasn't very helpful. Also, their mix contains cement. Before using the putty, how long do I need to leave it to rest? Also, when it's applied, how long does it take to set? Thanks for your advice.
Gerard Morrison, thanks for the comment. I am not sure that hydrated lime mortar is through best option for a bathroom floor, the mortar you get from this mixture is relatively soft and is water permiable meaning that it will absorb water and transfer it to the sub floor. This is really bad in a bathroom. What you want is something that will create a waterproof layer so any spills can be cleaned otherwise Hou will end up with rot in your sub floor.
@@aperturenow9125 historically lime mortar was used for setting tile. You are right, by today's standards this wouldn't do, but historically it was done before the invention of harder cement. A harder quick set for like putty mortar can be achieved by mixing finely ground brick dust or ash with the mortar. There are old instructions in old books. A thickset layer of well tammped and compressed mortar, a standard 3:1:1 of sand, lime, ash or brick dust, with some broken brick or tile fragments or gravel should be lain first and allowed to set or partially cure, then the tile set in a richer sticky lime mortar, like a 1:1 lime sand. The problem is it will take a long time for the floor to set long enough to be walkable
You will have to mix up ‘limecrete’ for the floor works very well. Lime buildings can cope with large amounts of moisture. I have seen an indoor hot tub (jacuzzi) in a small lime finished outbuilding in England. The room didn’t completely fill with steam when it was being used and it was a few hours before condensation started rolling down the walls down the walls at that point the cover was put back on and the room was completely dry within another our. I have worked with lime lime in england and used if for many different applications including lime plastering outbuildings and basements to correct damp issues but I was shocked to see how well it worked in this situation. If done right it will last as long as an English castle 🏰 and you and your house will be heathy!
Thanks for the video Aperture. Im renovating my 1927 double brick home and want to use lime. I plan to use lime mortar to make the wall render mix, then need a skim coat. I'm wondering whether lime putty as you've just shown can be used as a final skim coat over the interior rendered wall?
@@aperturenow9125 found some more useful info: Lime mortars can be prepared from Lime putties or hydrates. To make the lime hydrate into a lime putty, it must be soaked in clean water for at least 24 hours. The putty can then be mixed with an aggregate in a 1:3 lime:aggregate ratio. The aggregate (usually a sharp, well graded sand) used should match the original mortar colour and texture as close as possible, if used on an historic home. You can use any equipment to mix lime mortar, but it is essential that the aggregate and lime are thoroughly mixed so that the mortar has a good workability and performance. How to Use Lime A basic lime plaster can be made up in the same way as a lime mortar, however, the mix should be richer in lime, with a 1:2.5 lime:aggregate ratio. Additionally, the aggregate used can be tailored, with fine graded sands used for a smoother finish. Interior plasters are typically applied in two - three coats. Before applying the plaster, the wall should be uniformly damp - this can be done with a household plant sprayer. The first coat is used as a base and once applied, a diamond pattern 2mm deep should be marked into the surface. This will take approximately 2 weeks to dry. The next coat should be no thicker than 10mm, and the finishing coat should be no thicker than 5mm. You can tell when each coat is dry by pressing the pad of your thumb into the wall, if there is no indent, the plaster has initially hardened.
@@bigjmal hi, thanks for your input! Since that original post I've certainly learned and experimented a lot. I do unserstand the difference with hydraulic limes, and have used it now successfully in a lime render (NHL2).I love this material and am becoming an advocate. It's a shame there is so much misinformation atm!
Why only two to three days if I may ask? I was under the impression that you should leave it for about two to three months, prior to use.... I am aware that a lot of times this is not a reasonable timeline for specific reasons pertaining to client or self impatience, and that 2 to 3 days will work, but longer will allow the putty to mature and produce a finished mortar that a carpenter could use.... lol. 👍
I know that you were not asking me, so I hope you don't mind if I answer. If you are applying lime plaster to wood-frame walls, it is better to use chalk instead of sand. It would be 1 part lime putty and 3 parts chalk. (by volume, not weight). By the way: Chalk = Calcium carbonate. They feed it to cows for a calcium supplement. You can get 50 lb bags of it at fleet farm or other farm-supply store. It's grainy like sand. Chalk does not dissolve in water, so if it's grainy going into the mix, it will remain grainy. It usually doesn't matter for the base coat. If you are looking for chalk POWDER that isn't grainy ... for use in the smooth top coat, for example. Fine calcium carbonate, (chalk powder) happens to be what they use to make the white lines on football and baseball fields. You can find it online by searching "White Stripe Field Marker Powder" or line powder. Maybe your local park or school already orders it and you could ask them to add some to their order for you?
@@Kiansi1 Thank you very much for your reply. No, I don`t have wood-frame walls. I have brick walls. I`ve already raked out the old mortar but I haven`t repointed them yet.
Sharing HOPE there are different colours of limewash/ lime paint and you can mix your own as well. You can buy breathable masonry paint. However coloured limewash is the most effective and efficient way to add colour and personality to your cobb wall without compromising its integrity.
Andrea Holmes I got 2 buckets that were almost full, I would say about 8 gallons total. Remember if you are making mortar you also mix in sand which will add to the total amount.
Oh well the ones I used were just regular 5 gal buckets, you ought to have 3 just so you have an extra for water. Hope the video helps and let me know how your project goes
dadou negaukap you will need to look for a masonry supply company, someplace that sells brick and block to contractors. I did a quick Google search and it looks like there are several options depending on where in south Florida you are.
@@aperturenow9125 does menards turn it over? Seems like most hardware stores, lime sits for months to years. Needs to be fresh. Do they have a date it was packaged on the bag?
@@melissajohnson2935 I already found it from some company in Texas. It wss inexpensive and the shipping was almost free. I got a 50lb bag of it delivered for $30.00. Thanks anyway
hydrated nonhydraulic lime, 95% or more of it must be CaOH2 calcium hydroxide. After you make a putty and store it with a layer of water on top with an air-tight lid so the water does not evaporate, and the longer you store it, the better it becomes as the beneficial crystals take time to form. It will set only after you expose it to air, as it is carbon dioxide CO2 in the air that sets it.
@@hommedetowne4253 I can see from your subs that you have befriended them. That's what I thought I'd find. So take a challenge, and listen to the channels I suggested. Challenge what you believe. Both of these channels are ran by people who were devout followers of Muhammad. Where they learned how to beat a wife properly, how Muhammad consummated his marriage when is Isha was just nine, how Muhammad traded 2 enslaved black people for 1 fair skinned slave, and which of your family members are okay to have incestrial relations with. Of course that's just the beginning of the crazy.
@@jerrywhidby. ...this is lime video.. not the right forum to discuss religion. since u started it, truly immoral are the devil worshipers that was the British raj (British East India company) who plundered India for centuries, brought famines to food rich India. All the cruel Muslim or any religion rulers were supported by the same devil worshipers. These devil worshipers today are controlling your central banks, porn industry, media, the list is long. Save your children from these pedophiles. They are teaching you that Islam is the enemy, no that's not the case. Devil worshipers are deceiving you ..wake up
When you used this for a mortar did it seem to be nice and hard when it dried? I'm looking to repoint my sandstone house foundation with a lime based mortar. Would you recommend this?
Great thanks for your help! Do you know if anything other than sand would need to be added in order for it to harden? Or would this do that on it's own? I'm a but of a noobie when it comes to working with lime..
Tom Kosloski the lime putty dries via dehydration so no nothing needs to be added to make it set. As a matter of fact you should mist the mortar with water so it does not dry to fast, you don't want the outside crusting over and not letting the inside dry appropriately
@@aperturenow9125 thanks again for your help and input. I've been going crazy trying to get a straight answer. Do you know if it would be best to add a pozzolan such as brick dust to it to help in the curring process or is that no needed?
You did this wrong !!! Its way to thick. It should be the same thickness as milk or slightly thicker than milk. This from the usa weights and measures office. Thats if your taking right from the bag ( no puddy)
Shane K This mortar is actually more flexible than cement based mortar, it is used for applications where the brick or stone it is used with is soft such as old bricks that have not been kiln dried. When it comes to a brick and mortar application you want the mortar to be the sacrificial part because you can always replace it. As for the cost I am guessing it is about the same.
Thanks sir. Would this be a good product to put on an outside wall that I put lathing on? Kind of like stucco? I've got wood siding I'm going to put some boards up that look like it's half timber framed, like the houses in Germany, I'm looking for a product for covering large areas called "the fill". Thanks
Shane K you could probably do that, I have no experience however I think that interior plaster is made about the same as I made this mortar and that was used to plaster for hundreds of years.
Lime for walls and mortar would have harden into a block in a couple hours... two different limes... hydraulic and hydrated limes... hydraulic (NHL) is most appropriate for exterior applications... not sure if hydrated lime has any purposes in today's construction besides as a legacy product used for restoration, if even that?
you are totally wrong you cannot use hydrated lime to make mortar or plaster as hydrated lime does not go hard/set it is purely used in building industry as a mortar plasticiser ie makes mortar fatty you should be using hydraulic or non hydraulic lime hydraulic set when water is added like cement non hydraulic ie lime putty sets by carbonation.
Horse rider, thanks for the comment. you clearly have a good understanding of the differences between hydrated and hydraulic lime mortars, however you are incorrect saying that hydraulic lime can not be used as a stand alone mortar. for more information please see the first video in this set found here ruclips.net/video/jOd94WgkOP8/видео.html Thanks
OK People here you go, Hydrated lime will go off on it"s own but it will take a long time and needs to be kept wet as it cures. To make it useful for plaster work you must add gauging plaster to it. This will cause an int set of the plaster, ( hardening) then as time goes on it will continue to get harder. Scratch coat- lime gauging-sand-hair. Brown coat-lime-sand-gauging. Finish coat-lime- gauging Hope this helps.
I really have no idea what is wrong with people on here giving this guy a hard time. Lime putty is absolutely ideal for applications such as finish plastering, creating mortars(with sand), filling hairline cracks etc etc etc..... when covered with water, lime putty mixed this way can be kept indefinitely and will not go hard unless it is exposed to CO2 naturally from the air. Make no mistake about it... this is by far the cheapest way of creating a multipurpose filler and quite frankly it's the best stuff for the job of filling holes in the walls etc. Because lime putty is flexible and drys very slowly it should not shrink or crack AND the stuff is flexible (reducing hairline cracks).. Also when used as a mortar... provided water is present it also self heals its own cracks!!! you'd be crazy not to use it for some applications where movement will happen.
I bought a house that had old lime plaster on the walls and the previous owner basically just had a walls skimmed(finished) using gypsum. The problem with this method is that lime plaster is flexible by nature and gypsum is rigid with no flexibility... can you guess what happened to the gypsum finish on top of the lime? there were hairline crack all over the walls as the house naturally moved. I made myself some lime putty and went around all of the hairline cracks filling them in and now have zero problems 5 years on. If a new crack forms i just fill and paint again. It's a nightmare and the previous owner should have put a lime finish plaster on the walls (like for like). If the walls are lime plastered please don't use the modern plasters and use this stuff.by far the best way with the least amounts of headache.
Greetings from England
I disagree. I think he has made lime putty there.
Quicklime is chalk or a pure-ish limestone baked in a kiln to change it from calcium carbonate to calcium oxide.You just add water to quicklime to make putty. Although do it in a metal bucket, because it can get hot enough to boil.
Hydrated lime is quicklime with a little water added already (to make calcium hydroxide), then re-powdered. Add that to water, I believe that you get to the same place, just without the violent reaction and having to let it mature in the bucket.
Are you sure that you're not thinking of agricultural lime? That's just limestone powder, so you're right, that wouldn't make a putty.
Or possibly hydraulic lime? That's kind of like quicklime with additives (that's not accurate, but it's easier than a full explanation) that makes it to set more like Portland cement (including setting underwater). I've never tried, but I guess that would just set to a solid lump in the bottom of the bucket.
@@michaeljamesdesign lime putty is by definition a paste of hydrated lime and water, whether the hydrated lime is produced by slaking quicklime yourself, or taking previously slaked, now dry, like and adding water to it, either way the result is a lime putty.
thanks Ryan - so much we need to learn about this.
I have to say, the differences in terminology are so subtle - hydrated, hydraulic and non-hydraulic limes - but the differences so significant, this leads to some confusion I feel. But - as mentioned below - pozzolans etc will be an important part of learning about this building material and its properties
@@michaeljamesdesign how else do you make lime putty then? If you're disagreeing with this method, please clarify what you mean. This is what I've seen elsewhere also
@@michaeljamesdesign No offence intended, but you need to read more on this subject. He is making lime putty. English Heritage do an excellent 'bible' on the subject which I highly recommend.
I made lime putty from hydrated lime, left it in the bucket for at least a couple of weeks, then mixed it with 2 parts graded brick sand, 1 part riverbed sand and 1part lime putty. I repointed a hundred year old bluestone/basalt rock building with it. The result? It went as hard as nails! I had to be careful about the weather, not too damp, not too warm, always misting the work and checking for cracks especially when the weather was over 20 degrees centigrade. I did get some hairline cracking but I’m not bothered by it. Like many others, I did a lot of research on this subject to the point of confusion! Hydraulic lime is not readily available where I live. Hydrated lime is. I don’t know what the long term results of my work will be, but I’m happy with it now. It’s been six month since I started my work. Thank you for your video.
I'm not sure it is suitable as a substitute for hydraulic lime or mortar. Time will tell, I'd be interested to know how it is after a winter.
I live in the South West of Victoria Australia, winters are not really that harsh. Just less than two weeks of winter left now and my mortar is good.
@@bigjmal (NHL)Hydraulic lime has been around for a few decades and lime putty has been around for thousands of years. Time has already told.
@@tangokaleidos1926 different from hydrated lime.
@@bigjmal that's right lime putty is made from quicklime, but it is best to use hot lime mortar, render, and plaster made from quicklime on the spot.
I enjoyed your video, and I thank you for sharing. To make your lime-putty-making experience easier, and with all due respect, the process does not require all of the equipment, effort, and mess that you show. All you have to do is put Hydrated lime in a bucket and gently pour water in to about about 6 inches above the lime (without splashing). I fill my pail with lime until it is about 7 inches below the rim, then add water until it comes up to about an inch below the rim. That's it. You don't have to stir it or do anything else. Just walk away and leave it alone. The lime will absorb all the water it needs to become putty and be ready to use in 24 hours. There won't be any lumps or areas of dry material in the putty. Of course, the extra water separates from the putty and sits on top. You can pour off the water when you're ready to use it, but it will last indefinitely as long as it is covered with water. Thank you. P.S. That drill and paddle would have come in handy when I added my sand to make my plaster mortar. :)
Trying this tomorrow! Does it really work???
@@sierrabainbridge5757 Yes. I've made it several times. I'm curious to know ... what are you planning to use your lime putty for??
What size bucket do you use? How much of the hydrated lime do you use? I’m wanting to Limewash my brick house and I need to make lime putty to do it.
@@Kiansi1 I have a bucket of lime putty that I spent too much money on as I begin to restore my plaster walls and I want to paint using lime. There is so much confusion. Thanks for chiming in? What do you use it for? I have so much to learn.
@@karenflowers9711 I use mine for lime paint and patching my old plaster at the moment, but I have bigger plans ahead. I want to update the wiring in my 101-year old home and insulate the exterior walls, meaning that I will have to remove a lot of lath and plaster. I don't like drywall whatsoever, so I am going to replace my old lath & plaster walls with new lath & plaster walls (by myself!). I am so excited! I have a plaster recipe from Europe that is tried and true. They are using the recipe over there still to this day. Special thanks to Anglia Lime Company for sharing their recipe with me!!! I love that company! I might eventually travel to the U.K. and take one of their plastering classes (aver the pandemic is finally over).
Well, I have the same exact Lime and the same Drywall mud scoop so I followed this exactly with the same yield. Thanks.
Glad it worked out for you. I let mine sit for about 2 weeks before I used it and it came out great.
Very good videos Shanks just throws looking for!
Great advice throughout and appreciate your tutorial!
Like putty is so superior to most other plastering materials, especially in moist environments like our 17th century house on cape cod. Thanks for this video which I check back with every time I need to mix up some putty. This time I'm doing 6 buckets so I have it lying around which is traditional in places where it's used all the time for everything - Portugal, uk, etc.
Excellent tutorial video. Thank you.
Very informative video, thanks. I made plaster of paris putty but that settles too quickly and adding vinegar to increase the settling time makes it weaker , I will try this lime putty now, seems to be good
Really clear and informative video. Thanks!
Looks Great. I make it from time to time and wasn't sure about topping it off with water. Thanks.
Great video buddy. Be making this Friday and this has helped a lot. Many thanks
Hi, thanks,
Can you att some colour and use it for venison plasters?
I tried using hydrated lime from the lumber yard, the same hydrated lime available most places in my location. My results were mixed, and mostly unsatisfactory. Hydrated lime in bags available in my area is not intended for any specific use according to the label, which means that it may have a bunch of ingredients which, I suggest, make it unsatisfactory for use as a mortar. Note that the bag here is clearly marked "Morta Lok", which implies that it is intended for use as a mortar component. I can say with absolute certainty that plain Type S hydrated lime should only be used as an aggregate or pigment, and not as a the primary bonding or adhesive in a plaster coat or mortar. I suggest that if you are mixing plaster for walls or for masonry and if you want a white finish or very light colored finish, you should use Type N white masonry cement or, alternatively, white portland instead. These two white portland/masonry products are not normally available at a lumber yard, but at a supplier for masonry products or a concrete specialty supplier. They are way too expensive to have shipped. There are also dry mix tile adhesives that can be added to your mix with excellent results. Oh, and BTW, if you add portland or masonry cement, you have to use it relatively quickly. The mixture will harden and become unusable. It is also slightly more difficult to mix to the correct consistency for plastering.
Correct, if you are in the US our Type S hydrated lime cannot be effectively used to make so-called lime putty and lime mortar. It will eventually fail. So much disinformation promoting the use of Type S to make lime putty.
Thank you for the informative video.
Easy peasy. Thanks.
Hi. Can you use type s hydrated lime? Thanks for the video.
I think if you add in washed sand, and 5% diatomaceous earth silica, the white one that's been properly heated, it's a pozzolan and you will make a good mortar
thanks for the tip Forestfire - do you have a reference for this please? I will try - it appears diatamaceous earth is available for poultry and livestock supplies....
@@suetheron4495 look up pozzolans role in lime mortar . Yes for poultry is fine
bassicly same resipie i used for cover coat in bases witch is rubble stone. for being just lime and sand morter it does set up fairly hard after 5- 6 mounths. by no means a structural grade lime but does slow water geten threw walls and has strength.
What would you recommend for a structural grade mix? I need to repoint my field stone foundation on my house.
@@tomkosloski9766 add a pozzolan, like fine brick dust or crished/powered ceramics, or wood ash. If you burn ash twice it becomes mostly fine silica and more pozzolanic. Or if you have access finely ground pumice or volcanic ash. A modern pozzolan like metakaolin or silica fume will work amazingly. A 3:1:1 mix for example, or in different proportions. Be aware it will set more slowly than standard cement, but will make a harder more weather resistant pointing mortar. Experiment.
Great video 👍
Just curious where did you buy the product?
hi this motar is 100% Lime, It have adtivitive ? tks
chinh luan no this is lime ‘ putty’ made out of ‘hydrated lime’ if you are making a mortar you can add sand. You have to know what ‘mix’ you need for your specific application. If you are a diy’er I suggest you gather as much information as you can about different types off lime, what that are used for, how they act and react with different environments and materials.
Thanks for this nice Video! Can I use this white Lime putty instead of painting the indoor wall (without sand)?
Yes you should be able to use this as a sort of plaster. I don't know exactly what mix you would want to use. I would think you would want to have some sand or other aggregate to give it some body. Also you may still want to paint as this will be porous when dry.
@@aperturenow9125 Thanks a lot for the answer!
Great video! We are limewashing a 30 year old brick home and are having trouble with our lime putty. It keeps cracking and coming out of the grout lines do you know what were doing wrong? Also could this be used similar to the German schmear technique? The brick lines are deep and wanting to smooth it all off but keep having the cracking as mentioned above. Thanks!
Are you keeping the putty wet for a couple days after you install it? This type of mortar drys from evaporation not from chemical reaction like a Portland cement does. This means that if you do not keep the outside moist the mortar will dry a crust on the outside before the inside has a chance to dry out. This will lead to cracking.
@@aperturenow9125 Oh ok I didn't know that. Probably not the best time for us to be trying it out in 40 degree Celsius heat! Thank you so much for your reply, we will try again the the cooler months and keep it damp :)
Glad to help let us know how it works out when you get back to it.
Hi - I'm looking at sensible alternatives to adding texture to some (55 in fact, so, a lot),.. 40cm x 60cm art canvases but the cost of texture paste is, for me at least, exorbitant. Can you suggest a lime powder or putty which wouldn't cause too many problems, such as poor drying, problems with mixing and/or drying, poor adhesion to the canvas, (all primed), severe cracking etc... Could I use some PVA glue to add to it to keep it chemically stable and a bit more solid and yet flexible to allow for flexing of the canvas? How would I mix it? How long would it take to dry? *I'd not be using sand etc, but could I use some other powder to make it better or easier to work with or stronger or something? What other materials could I mix it with to aid its suitability for the 50 or so canvases I'll be working on? Will it (when dry) take paint and then a final, thin coat of water-based varnish?
I hope you don't think I'm being too demanding for info,. I just don't want just paint on a canvas - it's far too boring; it needs texture, lots of texture (manually patterned or natural). :)
Thanks in advance for at least reading this. :)
I'm about to undertake some renovations to a 1920's double brick house and was interested in you videos regarding lime putty mortar. 3 questions relating to making up the lime putty:
1) How long do you need to leave (if at all) the lime putty before if can be used in a mortar? I noticed you replied to someone that you left yours for about 2 weeks - any particular reason for the long wait?
2) Once made up and the bucket topped with water, is the water discarded before removing some of the putty (if yes, presumably the water is replaced when enough putty is used)?
3) Can you relocate putty from one bucket to another putty bucket (eg when one bucket is nearly empty and you'd like to reuse the bucket to make more putty)? Cheers
Steve Vardy
Thanks for taking the time to watch.
1) the reason to leave the putty sit is just to make sure that it is uniformly hydrated. Which is a fancy way of saying there are no dry spots. If you use a Shovel to mix your putty this might be an issue however if you use a mixer paddle like I did it should be no issue. I let it sit 2weeks because that is how long it took for me to get back to the project you could probably use it as early as the next day and as late as a couple years after mixing it up.
2) Lime mortar sets from drying vs a cement mortar which sets via a chemical reaction. This means that as long as you can keep moisture in the putty it will never set, this is what the water on top is for. You are simply using it as a cap to keep the putty from setting. When you go to make you can pour off the water or just scoop through the water as it will not come out with the putty.
3) Yes you can mix different batches of putty into the same bucket no problem.
Hi Ben, thanks for your rapid reply - very much appreciated. The weather here (South Australia) is warm at the moment - 41deg yesterday, high 30's for the next week or so, and from your response drying shouldn't be an issue! Even though it's warm, I need to brick up a doorway and window (internal double brick) before I go back to work, so I'm happy I can use the putty (once mixed properly) in the next few days. Cheers
@@benhigginbotham9731 I don't think it setups from "drying" but rather from reacting to the CO2 in the air and converting back to a form of "lime stone"....
@@winkywoo5083 Winky you think correctly. Non-hydraulic limes set by CO2 just as you say. Hydraulic limes contain other substances (magnesium carbonate, aluminates, silicates etc) that set by exposure to moisture.
@@stevevardy8728 HI Steve - I'm interested in how your project is going, and your lime putty experiments? I'm also renovating a double-brick 1927 home (a california bungalow here in Goulburn NSW). All the internal walls are handmade bricks rendered with about 12mm original lime mortar, then a skim coat of lime plaster. I've had to remove a fair bit due to it being drummy. I want to reapply using lime mortar and then a breathable paint. I'd love to hear any tips and tricks from you, TIA
Awesome videos! Hoping for your help. I'd like to use lime putty as you've done it, instead of tiles on the floor and walls of the bathroom (not in the shower). Can I approach it in the same way that you have, with hydrated lime and water? I tried reaching out to Carmeuse, but they referred me to their site, which wasn't very helpful. Also, their mix contains cement. Before using the putty, how long do I need to leave it to rest? Also, when it's applied, how long does it take to set? Thanks for your advice.
Gerard Morrison, thanks for the comment. I am not sure that hydrated lime mortar is through best option for a bathroom floor, the mortar you get from this mixture is relatively soft and is water permiable meaning that it will absorb water and transfer it to the sub floor. This is really bad in a bathroom. What you want is something that will create a waterproof layer so any spills can be cleaned otherwise Hou will end up with rot in your sub floor.
@@aperturenow9125 historically lime mortar was used for setting tile. You are right, by today's standards this wouldn't do, but historically it was done before the invention of harder cement. A harder quick set for like putty mortar can be achieved by mixing finely ground brick dust or ash with the mortar. There are old instructions in old books. A thickset layer of well tammped and compressed mortar, a standard 3:1:1 of sand, lime, ash or brick dust, with some broken brick or tile fragments or gravel should be lain first and allowed to set or partially cure, then the tile set in a richer sticky lime mortar, like a 1:1 lime sand. The problem is it will take a long time for the floor to set long enough to be walkable
You will have to mix up ‘limecrete’ for the floor works very well. Lime buildings can cope with large amounts of moisture. I have seen an indoor hot tub (jacuzzi) in a small lime finished outbuilding in England. The room didn’t completely fill with steam when it was being used and it was a few hours before condensation started rolling down the walls down the walls at that point the cover was put back on and the room was completely dry within another our. I have worked with lime lime in england and used if for many different applications including lime plastering outbuildings and basements to correct damp issues but I was shocked to see how well it worked in this situation. If done right it will last as long as an English castle 🏰 and you and your house will be heathy!
Gerard Morrison v
Thanks for the video Aperture. Im renovating my 1927 double brick home and want to use lime. I plan to use lime mortar to make the wall render mix, then need a skim coat. I'm wondering whether lime putty as you've just shown can be used as a final skim coat over the interior rendered wall?
Sue Theron I don't know as I have never plastered with it. Give it a try and let us know.
@@aperturenow9125 found some more useful info:
Lime mortars can be prepared from Lime putties or
hydrates. To make the lime hydrate into a lime putty, it must
be soaked in clean water for at least 24 hours. The putty can
then be mixed with an aggregate in a 1:3 lime:aggregate
ratio. The aggregate (usually a sharp, well graded sand)
used should match the original mortar colour and texture as
close as possible, if used on an historic home. You can use
any equipment to mix lime mortar, but it is essential that
the aggregate and lime are thoroughly mixed so that the
mortar has a good workability and performance.
How to Use Lime
A basic lime plaster can be made up in the same way as a
lime mortar, however, the mix should be richer in lime, with
a 1:2.5 lime:aggregate ratio. Additionally, the aggregate
used can be tailored, with fine graded sands used for a
smoother finish. Interior plasters are typically applied in two
- three coats. Before applying the plaster, the wall should
be uniformly damp - this can be done with a household
plant sprayer. The first coat is used as a base and once
applied, a diamond pattern 2mm deep should be marked
into the surface. This will take approximately 2 weeks to dry.
The next coat should be no thicker than 10mm, and the
finishing coat should be no thicker than 5mm. You can tell
when each coat is dry by pressing the pad of your thumb
into the wall, if there is no indent, the plaster has initially
hardened.
Sue Theron fascinating. I don't know about you but I enjoy the hunt for information on the old methods
@@bigjmal hi, thanks for your input! Since that original post I've certainly learned and experimented a lot. I do unserstand the difference with hydraulic limes, and have used it now successfully in a lime render (NHL2).I love this material and am becoming an advocate. It's a shame there is so much misinformation atm!
ps a skim coat I would now make from NHL2 would simply use the lime and a very fine sand
What is calcium content? As percentage to other element
Good quality lime has 37-40% calcium
Why only two to three days if I may ask? I was under the impression that you should leave it for about two to three months, prior to use.... I am aware that a lot of times this is not a reasonable timeline for specific reasons pertaining to client or self impatience, and that 2 to 3 days will work, but longer will allow the putty to mature and produce a finished mortar that a carpenter could use.... lol. 👍
Sorry if I was not clear. A few days is the minimum but yes longer is better.
I need to make some of this putty but i can`t find a mask does anyone know where i can find a mask...?
Cool video bud
I like using lime
What`s the best lime-to-sand ratio for indoor applications?
1 part lime 2 to 2.5 parts clean sand
I know that you were not asking me, so I hope you don't mind if I answer.
If you are applying lime plaster to wood-frame walls, it is better to use chalk instead of sand. It would be 1 part lime putty and 3 parts chalk. (by volume, not weight).
By the way: Chalk = Calcium carbonate. They feed it to cows for a calcium supplement. You can get 50 lb bags of it at fleet farm or other farm-supply store. It's grainy like sand. Chalk does not dissolve in water, so if it's grainy going into the mix, it will remain grainy. It usually doesn't matter for the base coat.
If you are looking for chalk POWDER that isn't grainy ... for use in the smooth top coat, for example. Fine calcium carbonate, (chalk powder) happens to be what they use to make the white lines on football and baseball fields. You can find it online by searching "White Stripe Field Marker Powder" or line powder. Maybe your local park or school already orders it and you could ask them to add some to their order for you?
@@Kiansi1 Thank you very much for your reply. No, I don`t have wood-frame walls. I have brick walls. I`ve already raked out the old mortar but I haven`t repointed them yet.
Id like to seal cob wall, but i dont want the white. Is there a way to add paint to it?
Sharing HOPE there are different colours of limewash/ lime paint and you can mix your own as well. You can buy breathable masonry paint. However coloured limewash is the most effective and efficient way to add colour and personality to your cobb wall without compromising its integrity.
you can add natural earth pigments or iron oxide pigments and water down to make your own limewash
How many buckets does the 50# bag make? This way I can send instructions to my brother for supplies when I visit my mother.
Andrea Holmes I got 2 buckets that were almost full, I would say about 8 gallons total. Remember if you are making mortar you also mix in sand which will add to the total amount.
Absolutely. I just needed to know what size buckets to get....or have my brother fetch for me...lol
Oh well the ones I used were just regular 5 gal buckets, you ought to have 3 just so you have an extra for water. Hope the video helps and let me know how your project goes
Is that asbestos siding?
Maybe, who knows.
where did you buy your lime. I live in South Fl. homedepot or lowes do not carry or ship lime. please help?
dadou negaukap you will need to look for a masonry supply company, someplace that sells brick and block to contractors. I did a quick Google search and it looks like there are several options depending on where in south Florida you are.
Where do you get this lime? How do i make sure it is fresh?
Check your local big box construction supply. I bought this from a chain called menards
@@aperturenow9125 does menards turn it over? Seems like most hardware stores, lime sits for months to years. Needs to be fresh. Do they have a date it was packaged on the bag?
Lime doesn't need to be fresh. Powder or mixed form , it lasts forever
Where do you get this lime? I need some to make plaster for inside. But I can not find it localy.
Amazon
@@melissajohnson2935
I already found it from some company in Texas. It wss inexpensive and the shipping was almost free. I got a 50lb bag of it delivered for $30.00. Thanks anyway
@@wehart2950 what is the company called?
@@mariarangel555
I'm nearly blind so I can't help much but Google 'Texas hydrated lime'. I believe you will find it pretty easily.
This is Type S lime. You can find it at any Home Depot, Lowes or building supply store for around $15-$20 per bag
How did it turn out as mortar? Did it set?
Matt Frckr the mortar set just fine.
Awesome thanks for the video series
What are the ingredients to create this thick paste
It's the same ingredients the enslaved Indians used on the Taj Mahal. So you should be able to get the recipe.
hydrated nonhydraulic lime, 95% or more of it must be CaOH2 calcium hydroxide. After you make a putty and store it with a layer of water on top with an air-tight lid so the water does not evaporate, and the longer you store it, the better it becomes as the beneficial crystals take time to form. It will set only after you expose it to air, as it is carbon dioxide CO2 in the air that sets it.
@@jerrywhidby. that was amazingly inappropriate and vulgar
@@hommedetowne4253 I can see from your subs that you have befriended them. That's what I thought I'd find. So take a challenge, and listen to the channels I suggested. Challenge what you believe. Both of these channels are ran by people who were devout followers of Muhammad. Where they learned how to beat a wife properly, how Muhammad consummated his marriage when is Isha was just nine, how Muhammad traded 2 enslaved black people for 1 fair skinned slave, and which of your family members are okay to have incestrial relations with. Of course that's just the beginning of the crazy.
@@jerrywhidby. ...this is lime video.. not the right forum to discuss religion. since u started it, truly immoral are the devil worshipers that was the British raj (British East India company) who plundered India for centuries, brought famines to food rich India. All the cruel Muslim or any religion rulers were supported by the same devil worshipers. These devil worshipers today are controlling your central banks, porn industry, media, the list is long. Save your children from these pedophiles. They are teaching you that Islam is the enemy, no that's not the case. Devil worshipers are deceiving you ..wake up
When you used this for a mortar did it seem to be nice and hard when it dried? I'm looking to repoint my sandstone house foundation with a lime based mortar. Would you recommend this?
Tom Kosloski yes this would be great for that
Tom Kosloski yes this would be great for that
Great thanks for your help! Do you know if anything other than sand would need to be added in order for it to harden? Or would this do that on it's own? I'm a but of a noobie when it comes to working with lime..
Tom Kosloski the lime putty dries via dehydration so no nothing needs to be added to make it set. As a matter of fact you should mist the mortar with water so it does not dry to fast, you don't want the outside crusting over and not letting the inside dry appropriately
@@aperturenow9125 thanks again for your help and input. I've been going crazy trying to get a straight answer. Do you know if it would be best to add a pozzolan such as brick dust to it to help in the curring process or is that no needed?
You did this wrong !!! Its way to thick. It should be the same thickness as milk or slightly thicker than milk. This from the usa weights and measures office. Thats if your taking right from the bag ( no puddy)
Is this cheaper or stronger than using pre bagged mortar?
Shane K This mortar is actually more flexible than cement based mortar, it is used for applications where the brick or stone it is used with is soft such as old bricks that have not been kiln dried. When it comes to a brick and mortar application you want the mortar to be the sacrificial part because you can always replace it. As for the cost I am guessing it is about the same.
Thanks sir. Would this be a good product to put on an outside wall that I put lathing on? Kind of like stucco? I've got wood siding I'm going to put some boards up that look like it's half timber framed, like the houses in Germany, I'm looking for a product for covering large areas called "the fill". Thanks
Shane K you could probably do that, I have no experience however I think that interior plaster is made about the same as I made this mortar and that was used to plaster for hundreds of years.
Lime for walls and mortar would have harden into a block in a couple hours... two different limes... hydraulic and hydrated limes... hydraulic (NHL) is most appropriate for exterior applications... not sure if hydrated lime has any purposes in today's construction besides as a legacy product used for restoration, if even that?
hi kurt can you expand on this opinion please - it flies in the face of all the discussion and good results given above
If your doing this use a mask my lungs are fucked after working with lime and occasionally choosing not to use a mask. Big mistake.
you are totally wrong you cannot use hydrated lime to make mortar or plaster as hydrated lime does not go hard/set it is purely used in building industry as a mortar plasticiser ie makes mortar fatty you should be using hydraulic or non hydraulic lime hydraulic set when water is added like cement non hydraulic ie lime putty sets by carbonation.
Horse rider, thanks for the comment. you clearly have a good understanding of the differences between hydrated and hydraulic lime mortars, however you are incorrect saying that hydraulic lime can not be used as a stand alone mortar. for more information please see the first video in this set found here ruclips.net/video/jOd94WgkOP8/видео.html
Thanks
@@aperturenow9125 he didnt say that
Hydrated lime mixed with sand will harden up just fine, even at 6:1 it will go off.
don't use this type of 'lime' to make lime mortar. Hydrated lime is only useful for tempering portand cement.
OK People here you go, Hydrated lime will go off on it"s own but it will take a long time and needs to be kept wet as it cures. To make it useful for plaster work you must add gauging plaster to it. This will cause an int set of the plaster, ( hardening) then as time goes on it will continue to get harder. Scratch coat- lime gauging-sand-hair. Brown coat-lime-sand-gauging. Finish coat-lime- gauging Hope this helps.
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