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I'm finished with the old junk. Most Tiawan lifetime warranted ratchets outperform my old 40-year-old 3/8" craft ratchet.

Nice work.. A very important question.. Have you tried measuring the pH of the material immediately after kneading and compared it to the pH after three months?

I bought 3 rachets when Sears closed. None worked correctly. The problem? Had zero lubricants inside. Added lubricants and works great now!

Hi, thanks, Can you att some colour and use it for venison plasters?

i just bought a house that has one of these in the basment. I could really heat the house with that from the basement? Its only a one floor house

You don't need to take it down that far, unless you want to inspect teeth. Take the plate off and fill it up with fluid film reinstall plate and snap ring, wipe excess off. When done, it works very smooth and quiet. Depending on how much you use it, but normally once a year re lubricate.

Carefully try tightening the bolt that holds the leg's on the corners

The easiest way to keep the ball bearing in place when you're fitting the reversing pawl is to use a carton staple made into the letter "J" and that works like the tool that used to come in the rebuild kits. Also, if you must use grease, it should be something like the Harbor Freight Super Lube. The Sears instructions mostly say to use SAE30 oil on some of them. Some of the kits included Swepco branded grease in the past.

Just curious where did you buy the product?

Add a grease zerk and pump it full once it's assembled.😂

I repaired 100s of these whenI worked for SEARS, Large tooth ratchets work best with light grease like super lube. use grease to help hold the ball in place. use oil on fine tooth ratchets. 1/2'' ratchets are easy, try rebuilding the 1/4'' ones, much harder to get back together.

It's too blurry for me to see

Why would you make a quicklime batch and then add a worked up lime puddy to that and together let slac.... isn't that a bit redundant or does one get different results?

Finally a decent explanation to the specifics of hydraulic lime. I was more successful in the gardening department finding the products.

that stove should have a handle that opens the chimney bypass. try opening that during startup to get good draft.

I figured 90 Plus percent of these that get swapped or new kits just need a clean and grease and if they are jammed up from dried grease then yes they can strip out and I am disturbed at all you the RUclips videos with people buying out all the rebuild kits so the real technician's can no longer rebuild if they need to!!!!!!! I saw one today that looked new with old grease and the guy put in a new kit for no reason! I have used those for 25 years daily and the anvils look polished lol. I have a older ones than me sk swivel head I cleaned and lubed when I was a kid I used twice in those 25 years and I pulled it out to use and it had dried grease and same thing on a torque wrench I needed to use because my digital would not fit in the spot I was working so I cleaned it in 15 minutes and on my way. If you can not service a ratchet you have no business holding one lol.

The weakest part of the whole wrench is the plastic (rrrrr) selector lever. Mine snapped in half. End of wrench life. Lesson learned, again, plastic is a no go.

These are going for close to $1000, new. That’s above my pay grade.

I tried using hydrated lime from the lumber yard, the same hydrated lime available most places in my location. My results were mixed, and mostly unsatisfactory. Hydrated lime in bags available in my area is not intended for any specific use according to the label, which means that it may have a bunch of ingredients which, I suggest, make it unsatisfactory for use as a mortar. Note that the bag here is clearly marked "Morta Lok", which implies that it is intended for use as a mortar component. I can say with absolute certainty that plain Type S hydrated lime should only be used as an aggregate or pigment, and not as a the primary bonding or adhesive in a plaster coat or mortar. I suggest that if you are mixing plaster for walls or for masonry and if you want a white finish or very light colored finish, you should use Type N white masonry cement or, alternatively, white portland instead. These two white portland/masonry products are not normally available at a lumber yard, but at a supplier for masonry products or a concrete specialty supplier. They are way too expensive to have shipped. There are also dry mix tile adhesives that can be added to your mix with excellent results. Oh, and BTW, if you add portland or masonry cement, you have to use it relatively quickly. The mixture will harden and become unusable. It is also slightly more difficult to mix to the correct consistency for plastering.

Thank you for info was wondering what to study before I start.

Thanks for the video 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

Why only two to three days if I may ask? I was under the impression that you should leave it for about two to three months, prior to use.... I am aware that a lot of times this is not a reasonable timeline for specific reasons pertaining to client or self impatience, and that 2 to 3 days will work, but longer will allow the putty to mature and produce a finished mortar that a carpenter could use.... lol. 👍

Just wanted to add to the comments here that the one shown in video is one of their first models. It had no ash pan. Later ones have easy to empty ash pan with removable handle. I have that model. What I say is in reference to mine and this is what I found out. There are two different "adapters" that can be used for burning hard coal vs soft coal or wood. These were not made for wood burning but you can burn wood but have to restrict the air flow by these adapters that screw into air intake at bottom inside chamber. I burn anthracite coal which I buy at Tractor Supply. My stove pipe connects into a masonry lined chimney and goes up about 25 ft or so. There was a cleanout door put in bottom of masonry chimney and the stove was literally pulling intake air from it. Once I sealed that door up it burned much better and much longer. So watching air intake closely will assist you greatly in getting this to burn hot and long. Burning anthracite coal is nothing like wood burning. Coal burns hot and this hard coal burns so clean there is no smoke coming out your chimney. None. It will burn for 12 hrs hot on a full load. There is no flame only a hot glow. Wood burning will give you the flame look but doors have to be open and fire does not last very long due to air intake. Also your room has a constant draft being pulled in by that fire so it is not comfortable as you might think. My model has glass doors and yours does not. Your model was made just for a long hot heat. It can be adapted for viewing with glass doors. Or burned with doors open which will not provide heat but only an omnionce feel. Any brick relining can be done cheaply with fire brick. I cannot see why these stoves could not last your lifetime or more. You do not need to buy specific from Vermont dealer for firebrick.. All gasketing has been explained by others who know more than me. My main input is that these are bought and used mainly for long hot burning and not for looking. That is why Vermont went with Vigilant II to satisfy those customers. I can only say that burning anthracite coal is like no other. Once you learn how to start and control it you will not have to turn on any additional heat. It keeps moderate size insulated house warm enough. You should not have to empty ash pan more than once every 24 hrs. Possibly twice depending on how much you have used it up high. Thermostat on back and you can dial it to a nice moderate heat all night long. Additional fans may be necessary to carry heat to outlying rooms. And if your power goes out you can cook right on the top of stove. Hope this helps. I would enjoy hearing from others and their experience. I have heard of some owners who have adapted these to do many different things.

Hi. Can you use type s hydrated lime? Thanks for the video.

I'm having trouble finding the right size oval to round adapter. The oval is 10 5/8 x 5 7/8. The closest I can find online is 9 3/4 x 5 1/2. Where did you get yours?

It's always worthwile to maintain your tools. I have heard that Snap-On rachets ship lubricated with Super Lube synthetic grease. Many comments on this video suggest 3-in-1 oil. It probably depends on the conditions the rachet is exposed to. I would think if using 3-in-1, you might have to lubricate it more frequently, but you could probably just soak the rachet head in a jar of 3-in-1 overnight and let it drain on some paper towel a while and you would be good to go for a few months.

I’ve had our 1978 Vigilant since 1999. As has been mentioned, establish a hot flue by burning tinder, and yes, open a window if your house is tight. I’ve never had smoke leak out from under the top and our house is tight. You just need to establish a hot flue pipe and let gravity do the rest. When I start, I don’t leave doors wide open so as to minimized an abundance of air incapable of rising because the flue isn’t hot. Build a small fire with kindling and newspaper. You’ll get it. If the smoke continues as I see it, cement it up with stove cement.

The secret is something everyone knew all along, but are too lazy to do it. P.S. . . . Light oil, no grease. Mayor Fuglycool

That’s not a tuck pointing

Math has always been the kryptonite that kept me from being a Aircraft Mechanic and being Aircraft engineer and im 49. Is it to late for me

A mask is in order...I loooove it. And it doesn't burn my hands.

I need to make some of this putty but i can`t find a mask does anyone know where i can find a mask...?

Great advice throughout and appreciate your tutorial!

Thanks for the info good sir

Shouldn't you get your shit ready BEFORE turning the camera on !!!!!

Thanks for the video..

The problem I always get with mine is that the spring wears out. I just take out the spring and stretch it out a bit and get another few years out of it. Add a tiny bit of oil while I’m in there. Crazy how many of these USA ratchets get thrown out when that’s really all they ever need.

Thank you sir for the info!

This in not tuckpointing, that pre existing wall is bagged also not stucko

Great video! We are limewashing a 30 year old brick home and are having trouble with our lime putty. It keeps cracking and coming out of the grout lines do you know what were doing wrong? Also could this be used similar to the German schmear technique? The brick lines are deep and wanting to smooth it all off but keep having the cracking as mentioned above. Thanks!

Where did you get the collar oval to round

As refractory mortar for rocket stoves, you could mix a bit of cat litter or bentonite to make it real sticky. Add pumice or vermiculite if you want.

Just purchased a 1977 Vigilant. What are the two pokers rods hanging on the back corners, one is longer than the other but now sure what they are used for. Thanks

I just bought a home and I’m going to list the same one on FB market for sale. Thanks for sharing.

dab of grease will hold the bearing in place during reassembly . Then install the pawl.

3 part of sand one part of slaked lime add a specially prepared mixture called as laat in india our old house walls are made from it and trust me it is far much better and eco-friendly than cement.The most beautiful thing about constructing with lime is in summer house is cool while in winter it is warm ad compared to house constructed with cement

I am planning to construct 3600 sqft building using only lime if you are interested we can share our experiences

My mistake was to buy a heavy tool box... any recommendations on what I should take in a separate box like wrenches and stuff?

i just got the same one, could tell me the sqft of your house and how well it heats and maybe type of house and where you installed it, i havent installed mine yet. im doing the chimney today. thx

Is that asbestos siding?