Why would you make a quicklime batch and then add a worked up lime puddy to that and together let slac.... isn't that a bit redundant or does one get different results?
I've been down the exact road you're taking and it didn't work out for me. I made lime putty, aged it, mixed it with sand and beat the sand into the lime just like they used to. I believe the failure of my mortar was due to rising damp so maybe the conditions were just too severe for lime putty mortar. When redoing it, I considered NHL but found that it is very hard, at least the NHL 3.5 is, and that's what most repointing work is done with. The NHL 2.0 is considerably softer but that made me wonder if I was going to be right back where I started with the failed lime putty mortar. I made two videos discussing the failure. You might not have the same bad results depending on how dry your conditions are. If you want to see my videos, part 1 is: ruclips.net/video/Evg5pG8PZII/видео.html and part 2 is: ruclips.net/video/lGOOZqIkmz0/видео.html
Hi, I checked out your video, that mortar really did fail. I do wonder if it really was the fault of your mortar or if it was the conditions that you had? did you address the moisture issue that you attribute the failure to?
There's really no solution. The house's foundation is only a few feet above median sea level so the base of the foundation is in the water table a good part of the day. Rising damp is going to be a constant. The only variable I have control over is the mortar. Mine is an extreme case. You might do just fine with lime putty mortar and I hope that you do. If not, there are some options like NHL and the Type O mortar I ended up using. I guess I won't know if I did the right thing for quite a few years.
I made some lime putty just as you all did. However, I used the water from a dehumidifier. I figured that would be free from any minerals found in tap water.
3 part of sand one part of slaked lime add a specially prepared mixture called as laat in india our old house walls are made from it and trust me it is far much better and eco-friendly than cement.The most beautiful thing about constructing with lime is in summer house is cool while in winter it is warm ad compared to house constructed with cement
Thanks for the video. I am totally confused now. According to this: www.lime-mortars.co.uk/articles/hydrated-lime-mortar A mortar made with hydrated lime and sand does not set at all, but you are saying that it does. Could you clarify?
I looked at that site, I am not totally sure what they mean by the mortar never setting up but here is my guess. Cement bases mortars and also hydraulic lime set up based on a chemical reaction heat is produced and it happens in a somewhat fixed amount of time. Hydrated lime mortar on the other hand drys by evaporation, this is why it takes several days to harden and you have to keep wetting it down so it can dry from the inside out, this is also why the mortar becomes stronger with time, it may not fully dry for more than 30 days depending on your ambiant conditions. Now back to using lime mortar for teaching brick work I suspect that the site you linked is saying that you can mix a bucket of mortar in the morning and it will last a whole day of instruction, even if it started to set up you can just mix in some more water to make it workable again. Hopefully this answers your question, if you are still worried I would suggest making a sample batch of what ever mortar mix you decide on and lay up a couple bricks to see if it dries.
I think I got it. Hydrated lime just conveys the fact that some water were added to quicklime. This can be done to hydraulic lime or to non-hydraulic lime. Has nothing to do with how it sets. Here is the reference: www.lime-green.co.uk/knowledgebase/Hydraulic%20or%20hydrated%20Lime I think the article that I linked to earlier is misleading.
I think part of the problem with the lime-mortars.co.uk website is that they're in the business of selling lime putty, which competes with dry hydrated lime. Ground limestone (calcium carbonate) is sometimes added to cement to increase workability, and it is true that that will not set; it's basically just ground up rock. Hydrated lime - calcium hydroxide - will set. Powdered dry hydrate gets a bad rap in the UK, with some reason. Their product is not made the same way it is in the US. In the US "Type S" lime is hydrated in an autoclave (under pressure), and is fully hydrated. In the UK they don't use pressure hydration, and the hydration is potentially not as complete. This is also why lime with magnesium ("dolomitic lime" or "magnesium lime") is so disparaged in the UK; when not pressure hydrated it can have delayed hydration of the magnesium and cause problems. In US "Type S" lime the magnesium is fully hydrated. People have used hydrated lime for eons and it always sets, so long as it doesn't get "spoiled" by absorbing atmospheric carbon dioxide before use. Both the dry hydrate and the lime putty sold by lime-mortars.co.uk start the same way, by burning limestone to drive off the carbon dioxide, creating "quicklime" (calcium oxide). Dry hydrated lime is made be adding only enough water to turn it into calcium hydroxide. You can store it as dry powder, and then add water at the job site to turn it into putty/paste/mortar. Lime putty is made by taking the quicklime and adding enough water to turn it into calcium hydroxide and make it into a putty at the same time. Both products will set by absorbing carbon dioxide from the environment.
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Finally a decent explanation to the specifics of hydraulic lime. I was more successful in the gardening department finding the products.
Why would you make a quicklime batch and then add a worked up lime puddy to that and together let slac.... isn't that a bit redundant or does one get different results?
How to use hydrated lime with cement or concrete to repair big or small cracks?
I've been down the exact road you're taking and it didn't work out for me. I made lime putty, aged it, mixed it with sand and beat the sand into the lime just like they used to. I believe the failure of my mortar was due to rising damp so maybe the conditions were just too severe for lime putty mortar. When redoing it, I considered NHL but found that it is very hard, at least the NHL 3.5 is, and that's what most repointing work is done with. The NHL 2.0 is considerably softer but that made me wonder if I was going to be right back where I started with the failed lime putty mortar. I made two videos discussing the failure. You might not have the same bad results depending on how dry your conditions are. If you want to see my videos, part 1 is: ruclips.net/video/Evg5pG8PZII/видео.html and part 2 is: ruclips.net/video/lGOOZqIkmz0/видео.html
Hi, I checked out your video, that mortar really did fail. I do wonder if it really was the fault of your mortar or if it was the conditions that you had? did you address the moisture issue that you attribute the failure to?
There's really no solution. The house's foundation is only a few feet above median sea level so the base of the foundation is in the water table a good part of the day. Rising damp is going to be a constant. The only variable I have control over is the mortar. Mine is an extreme case. You might do just fine with lime putty mortar and I hope that you do. If not, there are some options like NHL and the Type O mortar I ended up using. I guess I won't know if I did the right thing for quite a few years.
I made some lime putty just as you all did. However, I used the water from a dehumidifier. I figured that would be free from any minerals found in tap water.
3 part of sand one part of slaked lime add a specially prepared mixture called as laat in india our old house walls are made from it and trust me it is far much better and eco-friendly than cement.The most beautiful thing about constructing with lime is in summer house is cool while in winter it is warm ad compared to house constructed with cement
Thanks for the video. I am totally confused now. According to this: www.lime-mortars.co.uk/articles/hydrated-lime-mortar A mortar made with hydrated lime and sand does not set at all, but you are saying that it does. Could you clarify?
I looked at that site, I am not totally sure what they mean by the mortar never setting up but here is my guess. Cement bases mortars and also hydraulic lime set up based on a chemical reaction heat is produced and it happens in a somewhat fixed amount of time. Hydrated lime mortar on the other hand drys by evaporation, this is why it takes several days to harden and you have to keep wetting it down so it can dry from the inside out, this is also why the mortar becomes stronger with time, it may not fully dry for more than 30 days depending on your ambiant conditions. Now back to using lime mortar for teaching brick work I suspect that the site you linked is saying that you can mix a bucket of mortar in the morning and it will last a whole day of instruction, even if it started to set up you can just mix in some more water to make it workable again.
Hopefully this answers your question, if you are still worried I would suggest making a sample batch of what ever mortar mix you decide on and lay up a couple bricks to see if it dries.
I think I got it. Hydrated lime just conveys the fact that some water were added to quicklime. This can be done to hydraulic lime or to non-hydraulic lime. Has nothing to do with how it sets. Here is the reference: www.lime-green.co.uk/knowledgebase/Hydraulic%20or%20hydrated%20Lime I think the article that I linked to earlier is misleading.
I think part of the problem with the lime-mortars.co.uk website is that they're in the business of selling lime putty, which competes with dry hydrated lime. Ground limestone (calcium carbonate) is sometimes added to cement to increase workability, and it is true that that will not set; it's basically just ground up rock. Hydrated lime - calcium hydroxide - will set. Powdered dry hydrate gets a bad rap in the UK, with some reason. Their product is not made the same way it is in the US. In the US "Type S" lime is hydrated in an autoclave (under pressure), and is fully hydrated. In the UK they don't use pressure hydration, and the hydration is potentially not as complete. This is also why lime with magnesium ("dolomitic lime" or "magnesium lime") is so disparaged in the UK; when not pressure hydrated it can have delayed hydration of the magnesium and cause problems. In US "Type S" lime the magnesium is fully hydrated.
People have used hydrated lime for eons and it always sets, so long as it doesn't get "spoiled" by absorbing atmospheric carbon dioxide before use.
Both the dry hydrate and the lime putty sold by lime-mortars.co.uk start the same way, by burning limestone to drive off the carbon dioxide, creating "quicklime" (calcium oxide). Dry hydrated lime is made be adding only enough water to turn it into calcium hydroxide. You can store it as dry powder, and then add water at the job site to turn it into putty/paste/mortar. Lime putty is made by taking the quicklime and adding enough water to turn it into calcium hydroxide and make it into a putty at the same time.
Both products will set by absorbing carbon dioxide from the environment.
I am planning to construct 3600 sqft building using only lime if you are interested we can share our experiences
Yaaaawn………..