yeah, good look recycling it with all the synthetic fibers. if you want to do real lime plaster just use lime and sand and throw it on. works quite differently and is not that easy but it will really be recycleable and eco friendly.
Great to actually see a traditionally built property having the correct material applied. The most common cause of damp is due to the use of cement backing coats. I think I'm possibly the only damp specialist who actually uses and recommends lime plastering. I don't however buy pre mixed, I always use hot mix made on site. Works out much cheaper
I was a plasterer for close to 30 years before changing careers. Although time served, I’ve never touched sand and lime. I have now bought a circa 1800s listed building and have some damp spots. I will be looking to redo these to tackle the damp. Your videos and advice are spot on and serve as a welcome refresher to me revisiting my old trade. Thank you.
Trust me youl thank yourself forever doing so. Before we had gutter leak down walls for time and not notice it until plaster fell off and skirting rotted out ! So replastered in lime fixed gutter changed skirting sadly and now problem solved warm dry wall and no damp !
If I'd have known before we plastered the upstairs I'd have gone lime up there too. Luckily I learned about the beneefits of using brethable lime plaster in my 1930s house and used it downstairs. It makes such a difference. Taught myself to plaster to save money. Worth every penny. Don't forget you need to use breathable paints on top of this too. Make sure you rake out the wall cavities If you have them) before you render inside as this makes a hell of a difference too! House is som much drier and warmer downstairs.
I live in a 1970 bungalow. I need to re plaster the whole place, so I was thinking about doing it in lime so, that I can lime wash the walls. So when the kids make a mess, I don't have to pay crazy prices for paint and it absorbs co2
@@craiggamble4431breatheable paints arent cheap unfortunatly. Can easily be 100 for a big tin of paint. I got one for my living room and other room ceiling total was 3 cans about 300 pound almost !
Good video Same in London 90percent of the period property’s have been destroyed by cement , I constantly get called about damp caused by cement pointing and render , blocked or rendered over air bricks , as soon as the walls are stripped of the cement and pointed and adequate ventilation installed it literally goes away within weeks
Great video Blaine amazing how many guys are afraid of lime plaster work. I live and work on Dartmoor and lime plastering is 75% of my work, we are still using horse hair in the scratch coat here and still nailing laths to the stud work😂 far more satisfying than new build work.
That’s amazing mate. Beautiful area by the way - loved Dartmoor! And you are right, it’s very satisfying. Hopefully get some more work but it’s the price that’s the problem…a lot of people don’t go for it despite advising it.
Brilliant, thanks for the video! I have a 1930s house that has lime plaster in places and some gypsum mixed. It’s given me some inspiration to take the walls back to bare brick and try lime!
Doing 2 lime plaster jobs for clients in the Cotswolds. Both listed buildings and one I am using cornerstone insulation, bedded onto lath (for a breathable gap) on the inside and removing bonding and multi that's sucked in the water from the walls. There are loads of properties that have modern products but should have had a lime render and lime plaster. That includes the external pointing which is patched in 3/1 mix of sand and cement and not 1 part NHL 3.5 lime and 2 parts sharp and half soft sand mix. You can buy it pre mixed but I mix it myself. Listed stone/slate buildings you can only use lime putty, depends on the job. Keep up your videos, they are a great watch. Si
Really good tutorial. Think there’s just one thing missing… You forgot to mention about wetting the wall down every day when waiting to cure between coats to aid in carbonation
I personally apply it a lot wetter to the wall as I find it is 1. easier on the shoulder and 2. it bonds much better. Before I applied my backing coat quite stiff as well because it's easier to work neat (wet plaster takes more skill) and on more than one occasion, I would find some spots delaminating. When I switched to a wetter mix, this problem was solved. I think because the plaster is wetter, it takes significantly less effort to get the material to grip onto the masonry. I also don't key the float coat but I do float it and finish it with damp sponge to get a very smooth, slightly gritty finish. Then I apply 1 good coat of skim, flatten it, sponge and trowel it. This gives me the best finish in the shortest amount of time. I analysed the original plaster on a few old properties in my area (100+ years old) and this is how they did it back then. They also didn't bother with a scratch coat. They one coated it (+/- 10-20mm) and then skimmed it (+/- 2mm) and the walls were dead flat and plumb. It's pretty impressive to see just how good the old guys were. The walls looked smooth like glass until someone thought it a good idea to put wall paper over it... Some old writings from a few hundred years ago state that they applied the skim coat when the base coat was still damp. So I'm pretty sure these guys stepped into a room and did the base coats in one day and skim it the next.
Great vid. I actually did a lime plastering course and it followed what you did. I’ve found lime much easier to work with than gypsum because I have time to get it on and flatten. You’re spot on with two base coats at around the 9-10mm mark. On my course some people applied it too thickly and next day when we came back theirs had cracked. However, because it takes days to dry properly that wasn’t an issue and using a float it was just re-worked and the cracks cleared up. Lime seems to be very forgiving in that respect. Great vid.
Thanks mate, glad it lined up with your course. Very true about it being forgiving…it’s never too late to fix an issue with Lime. Thanks for watching pal 👍
Absolutely brilliant video - as a total newbie, with an old house, I did a course at Ty Mawr on lime plastering, and your video is a great refresher. Totally agree their premixed limes are the best to go with - especially if you're just starting out and haven't got a clue like me. Thank you for this!
I bought your course around gypsum based plastering before realising I need to use lime. reallyR appreciate you covering more of the plastering spectrum like this. Nice one!
Not done any lime work for about 4 years, but really enjoyed using it when i did, its a different product , with different techniques to gypsum, but if you do your research before you start then it shouldnt be too daunting. Theres a lot to learn! Get the right advice from the lime suppliers on what products to use, and where to use them. The hardest thing to get used to for most gypsum plasterers is the time between coats, it takes some getting used to. As somebody else suggested though definitely wear the gloves at least, that stuff is brutal. Just waiting now for the lime experts to catch this video, ill be back to read the comments😂. Good video Blaine, keep em coming👍
Very true, it’s totally different but I always enjoy using it. However, I think the fundamentals are the same. Keep your costs to a maximum of 10mm, apply lots of pressure, rule flat and just respect the waiting times. The timings are totally different though. Very forgiving unlike Gypsum which is nice. Wish me luck with the comments and thanks for watching 😂
@@PlasteringForBeginners every day is a school day, I've been plastering 33 years, still always something new to learn. I think unless your customers are clued up, the hardest thing is convincing them how long a lime job can take, and the extra costs involved, we know the benefits of lime especially on older properties, but convincing the customers is another matter, most just want quickest/ cheapest option. Good luck 👍
@@memecoinmafia2732 every job is individual, so hard to say. It's mainly because of the extra time involved that the cost rises, although I do think lime materials are a bit more expensive than gypsum etc. Maybe someone who uses lime more than I do can help you. The benefits of using lime is almost always worth the extra cost over time though, especially on older properties that would probably have been plastered with lime originally. It allows a property to breathe like it should. Which is better for damp issues.
Absolutely the best description for beginners I have seen! great talent for timing in this video, showing and explaining all steps, not too much talking or doing, really great teaching. Thank you so much!!!! just one question: is the process the same for outside rendering?
I'm so glad you have covered lime plastering. Its something nobody has taught me and I've wanted to learn. Really useful for old houses. Is there an insulating version with cork or some other material?
Glad you found it useful mate. Not sure to be honest, I’ve personally never seen it but it’s probably out there as you say…I’ll try and look into it for the future 👍
Good content. Ive got a 1935 bungalow with no cavity wall. All walls lime. Im renovating so took it all off as some of it had blown. I initially wanted lime back on but got told too expensive. So gave in to gypsum. Builders dot and dab ensuite. Week later theres mould on plasterboard. Dot n dab transferred moisture from the wall into the plasterboard. The house is vacant so i do know moisture levels will be high.....as the bungalow is very cold. Do you think i should revert back to my original plan and go lime? This process of using lime is there anytime you would use a more breathable plasterboard than gypsum? Appreciate your comments Thanks
The usual advice for lime plastering or rendering is to apply a progressively weaker mix on successive coats. Does the bagged lime putty product that you used in the video follow that or is it of the same strength throughout? I guess that it is more important when applying external render for weather and frost resistance rather than internal situation you are plastering. The biggest drawback I've found is the drying/setting time but it is much better on stonework or soft brickwork that you find on "heritage" buildings. Thanks for your video series Blaine, they have helped me a heck of a lot in the various jobs I've had on my property in South Cumbria.
Finally a video on this from one of you guys that explains well to somebody who dosent have experience and dosent have somebody with experience to ask Cheers
Great explanations as always! Would that type of smooth finish be ok for an outside wall too? Should I use lime wash on top of it for better protection? Have a nice day!
Hi mate love your videos iv got a whole house to plaster the exterior internal walls as its all been gypsum and soaking wet. Do you have any advice ? Im thinking of using a woodfibre insulation board and lime plaster on top would that be ok ?
I loved your video and thank you for the encouragement. As of yet, I haven't found anyone who says that we could do this. Like anything else, we just need to do it to get good at it. Again, thank you!!
Love your videos, really helpful content. I don’t seem to be able to find anywhere that delivers lime plaster. Do you think OCR could be used instead on internal red brick and breeze blocks?
Great video. How many bags did you use on that area, for each of the stages? Can lime be applied over concrete render or is that just a waste of time? Thanks.
Hi mate. Will this help me stopping getting Salt Peter coming out my 200 year old house. Looking forward to getting some. I had a builder re point my chimney and he added some cement to the lime mix. Is that a good idea? Cheers for the vid. :)
Hi, I live in an old black and white house. Some walls need re-plastering as nothing has been done since 1970s! Top of the walls are solid, but it must be rising damp as old plaster coming off the walls middle to bottom. Damp proof course put in in 1970s too! I've never done any plastering before, and would like to try to have a go, but with no experience I'm concerned about damp proof course and trying to lime plaster over the walls. Do you think I could attempt this as a lady who likes to try DIY?! Any advice would be welcome! Your video was great to watch. Thankyou
Stupid question… we have bought a log cabin and the kitchen has faux brick backsplash as well as above cabinets. I would love to give the kitchen walls that old world plaster wall look as it will go well with the cabin log walls, and ceiling. Should I just totally remove the faux brick paneling rather than skim over it? Thank you for your help!
So Blaine are you using lime and sand for all 3 coats of plaster ie 1st coat lime and rough sand 2nd coat lime & finer graded sand & final skim coat lime and even finer sand????? thanks for any info great video David.
Great stuff! Thanks for the encouragement. Sounds like we need more natural products on our walls and people who aren't afraid to try and use them!... I'm going for lime but was a bit nervous. This video has helped enormously. Many thanks.
Great video. Was it the same product for all four coats or were the two finishing coats something different? I've got an old sandstone wall with large patches I need to lime plaster. The existing plaster (very old with hairs in it...not sure if it's lime?) on the rest of the wall is sound. Once I've patched it can I skim the whole lot with the same product?
Curious to know how many bags of each basecoat and finsh coat you used on that wall. I have a simular size wall and can see where they tell what one bag covers. Great video
measure your wall: cm2 or m2. Then multiply times however thick your plaster will be. Then divide by 4 if you are using 1 part lime to 3 parts sand. Round up as your bags will typically be 20kg -25kg. You can add the extra lime to heavy clay soils or your garden if needed.
How would you lime plaster an uneven stone-built masonry wall, which has had the old (non-breathable) cement render removed? Would you potentially apply a third base coat of lime plaster, to help build it out? Really enjoyed this video, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and skills.
A great overview but it has left me nervous! I have never plastered anything before but am going to give this a go. We're renovating an old house so need to use lime based product. I have an area which is accessible and with a reasonably stable surface to work on. The real goal is to plaster my attic walls, the existing surface is very crumbly, to the point where I could most likely brush forever and not improve the surface at all. I clearly need to stabilise the wall before working on it. Any suggestions?
Brand new to this, and I've put on my first scratch coat before finding this excellent tutorial. I haven't scored the wall anywhere near as much as you. Do you think I'm heading for trouble with the subsequent coats?
If you would like to apply this lime render to an old Bath Ashlar Block that has been painted with an emulsion paint, what product would you use to stabilise / seal the wall as I presume you would not want to kick up dust to remove the paint? Many thanks
Hi Blaine, great work as always. Sorry I'm in a different subject now, do you know how to slow setting time down? I have a large plasterboarded ceiling to do and the weather isn't in my side, just wondered if you had any tricks up your sleeve. Cheers Rich
An additive called Xtra time. Gives about an hour. Or do a running gauge. Stop halfway. Before you final trowel the 1st half. Whack the second have on. Work the joint while still green. You'll find it a lot easier doing big areas once you suss it out
Awesome, thanks neville. I have seen that extra time stuff but I start the job Tommorrow and I can't find anywhere on the Isle of Wight that sells it lol, will give your method a go, cheers 👍
@@richardpowell9238 Hi. If you can get to a Travis Perkins, they sell Extratime there. It's been a life saver for me on ceilings in the past. Failing that you could always give cream of tartar a try 🤷♀️ If you can't add a retarder though, what Neville suggested would help you a lot.
Thank you Tara, yes there's one in Ryde I will try get there first thing, I've heard of tartar but didn't know if someone was having a laugh 😂, if I plaster over artex I do a 50/50 mix bondi g and multi that usually slows that down but don't know how bonding will react with plasterboard
@@richardpowell9238 No worries. Many spreads used tartar back in the day but I know some people do still use it if they have nothing else. I think it's about a lid full to a bag but i could be wrong. Bonding is fine on plasterboard but make sure the boards are in good nick. Sometimes to be on the safe side you'll need to PVA the boards if they've been up a while. Also, have you tried using a sponge float when you're in trouble? They can help a lot when you're chasing your tail because it brings the plaster back to life for a bit giving you that bit of extra time.
That's how I did my walls as a DIY job. Did you find that the bottom of the wall dried slower than the top? Water runs downhill! Anyway, great to see you using lime.
Hi, great video! Are you able to recommend a different brand that i could maybe get from Wickes? Ty Mawr is nowhere near me and as i only want a 1 bag to try their postage delivery charge is quite expensive for me
How do you identify lime plaster on a wall, I have some plastering to do in my house and the previous plasterer i hired used gypsum for a skim coat and since then there has been a damp patch where he repaired the wall, i think it might be lime underneath as the base coat but am not sure
We made ourselves a devil's float just like yours, but are finding it gets gummed up almost immediately with hair from the plaster, which then starts dragging off the lime itself. Are we maybe trying to scratch it up too quickly? Yours looks fairly moist still when you're scratching the second coat. Or maybe our plaster just has more hair in it? We're getting ours from Chalk Down Lime.
Is the hemp in hemp and lime just a substitute for horsehair or fibres? I was looking at dot and dab plasterboard but as there are gaps between brick and plasterboard, its not as good to get an air tight house. I think lime plaster might be the best for brick/block houses. Great video.
Hi, im about to use the same materials as in your video to lime plaster a brick wall (fireplace wall) to prevent damp after a damp solution had been used on the walls (dryzone dryshield cream) However i am only going 1 meter up the wall where i have removed the gypsum plaster..... can lime plaster be joined to a gypsum plastered wall using scrim tape or similar Also how many bags of the lime plaster you are using would you recommend for a 7m2 coverage
wow, I just commented on your most recent video how I would like to see you applying lime plaster and this appears,,,,I will be taking the more traditional route of adding horse hair, which is going to be more challenging than using a pre-mix
Nice video mate; I felt excited when I saw you took a crack (no pun intended) at lime plastering; thanks a lot for your perspective. I did wonder about one thing though: is there a reason why you refrain from using a spatula (speed skim) to give the finish coat a first flattening?
Can someone please offer advise. I have damp issues in my house. I need to skim over lime plaster wall. My Plasterer is suggesting applying a gypsy/multi finish skim coat. Is this a bad idea? Should I only be skimming in lime to prevent damp issues?
Alright Blaine, hope you're good. I think with this video you've made it really easy for a beginner to use this product 👌 I've never used it but it looks like a really nice product to work with actually. I built out a step and did my first bit of rendering 2 weeks ago with the help of your garden step video. Was going to send you some pics on WhatsApp but i forgot. It came out really nice actually 😀
I've been told to "throw" the plaster to the wall by my local NHL supplier/manufacturer (Målarkalk). And when I follow their instructions and water ratio the consistency is a lot thicker and not runny, so it's not possible to work it like you do. Do you know why it's so different? I am based in Sweden so maybe the traditions are different. Otherwise it's pretty similar.
My dad started lime plastering in 1958 and i have been doing since 1986 and this is exactly how we do it nice job
Are you based in the US? What products are you using?
Mould free, breathable, eco friendly, recyclable….what’s not to like about lime. Great vid, love your work.
That’s the one ☝️
I agree but it is extremely expensive just to apply. 3 visits in 3 weeks for a wall. Mental.
@@frenchgreguk that's lime plasterings biggest downfall unfortunately the drying times between coats.
yeah, good look recycling it with all the synthetic fibers. if you want to do real lime plaster just use lime and sand and throw it on. works quite differently and is not that easy but it will really be recycleable and eco friendly.
..and you can’t put normal paint on it.
Great to actually see a traditionally built property having the correct material applied. The most common cause of damp is due to the use of cement backing coats. I think I'm possibly the only damp specialist who actually uses and recommends lime plastering. I don't however buy pre mixed, I always use hot mix made on site. Works out much cheaper
Would you be able to give me an insight into what you mix and how you go about it please?
I would also like to hear about how you make your mix
4-1 for base coat. That's using quicklime that doubles in size
Look up : don't be dumb about damp
@@roberts.reilly2171 typically 4 parts sand for every 1 part lime
I was a plasterer for close to 30 years before changing careers. Although time served, I’ve never touched sand and lime.
I have now bought a circa 1800s listed building and have some damp spots. I will be looking to redo these to tackle the damp. Your videos and advice are spot on and serve as a welcome refresher to me revisiting my old trade.
Thank you.
Trust me youl thank yourself forever doing so. Before we had gutter leak down walls for time and not notice it until plaster fell off and skirting rotted out ! So replastered in lime fixed gutter changed skirting sadly and now problem solved warm dry wall and no damp !
If I'd have known before we plastered the upstairs I'd have gone lime up there too. Luckily I learned about the beneefits of using brethable lime plaster in my 1930s house and used it downstairs. It makes such a difference. Taught myself to plaster to save money. Worth every penny. Don't forget you need to use breathable paints on top of this too. Make sure you rake out the wall cavities If you have them) before you render inside as this makes a hell of a difference too! House is som much drier and warmer downstairs.
I live in a 1970 bungalow. I need to re plaster the whole place, so I was thinking about doing it in lime so, that I can lime wash the walls. So when the kids make a mess, I don't have to pay crazy prices for paint and it absorbs co2
@@craiggamble4431breatheable paints arent cheap unfortunatly. Can easily be 100 for a big tin of paint. I got one for my living room and other room ceiling total was 3 cans about 300 pound almost !
Good video
Same in London 90percent of the period property’s have been destroyed by cement , I constantly get called about damp caused by cement pointing and render , blocked or rendered over air bricks , as soon as the walls are stripped of the cement and pointed and adequate ventilation installed it literally goes away within weeks
Great video Blaine amazing how many guys are afraid of lime plaster work.
I live and work on Dartmoor and lime plastering is 75% of my work, we are still using horse hair in the scratch coat here and still nailing laths to the stud work😂 far more satisfying than new build work.
That’s amazing mate. Beautiful area by the way - loved Dartmoor! And you are right, it’s very satisfying. Hopefully get some more work but it’s the price that’s the problem…a lot of people don’t go for it despite advising it.
I’ve just bought a solid stone house in Chawleigh and need a plasterer - are you available?
@@adamchant2645 i dont know how to send you my contact details without it been deleted
Serious question - where do you get the horse hair?
@@bobbyreilly5394
i buy the mortar with it aready in, or you can buy it seperate in by the bucket load at Mike Wye Lime Devon
Brilliant, thanks for the video! I have a 1930s house that has lime plaster in places and some gypsum mixed. It’s given me some inspiration to take the walls back to bare brick and try lime!
Same!
Doing 2 lime plaster jobs for clients in the Cotswolds. Both listed buildings and one I am using cornerstone insulation, bedded onto lath (for a breathable gap) on the inside and removing bonding and multi that's sucked in the water from the walls. There are loads of properties that have modern products but should have had a lime render and lime plaster. That includes the external pointing which is patched in 3/1 mix of sand and cement and not 1 part NHL 3.5 lime and 2 parts sharp and half soft sand mix. You can buy it pre mixed but I mix it myself. Listed stone/slate buildings you can only use lime putty, depends on the job. Keep up your videos, they are a great watch. Si
Set yourself up as a damp proofing company. You will be taking work from the chemical brigade and doing the right thing for customer and the property.
Really good tutorial. Think there’s just one thing missing… You forgot to mention about wetting the wall down every day when waiting to cure between coats to aid in carbonation
I personally apply it a lot wetter to the wall as I find it is 1. easier on the shoulder and 2. it bonds much better. Before I applied my backing coat quite stiff as well because it's easier to work neat (wet plaster takes more skill) and on more than one occasion, I would find some spots delaminating. When I switched to a wetter mix, this problem was solved. I think because the plaster is wetter, it takes significantly less effort to get the material to grip onto the masonry.
I also don't key the float coat but I do float it and finish it with damp sponge to get a very smooth, slightly gritty finish. Then I apply 1 good coat of skim, flatten it, sponge and trowel it. This gives me the best finish in the shortest amount of time.
I analysed the original plaster on a few old properties in my area (100+ years old) and this is how they did it back then. They also didn't bother with a scratch coat. They one coated it (+/- 10-20mm) and then skimmed it (+/- 2mm) and the walls were dead flat and plumb. It's pretty impressive to see just how good the old guys were. The walls looked smooth like glass until someone thought it a good idea to put wall paper over it...
Some old writings from a few hundred years ago state that they applied the skim coat when the base coat was still damp. So I'm pretty sure these guys stepped into a room and did the base coats in one day and skim it the next.
Great vid. I actually did a lime plastering course and it followed what you did. I’ve found lime much easier to work with than gypsum because I have time to get it on and flatten. You’re spot on with two base coats at around the 9-10mm mark. On my course some people applied it too thickly and next day when we came back theirs had cracked. However, because it takes days to dry properly that wasn’t an issue and using a float it was just re-worked and the cracks cleared up. Lime seems to be very forgiving in that respect. Great vid.
Thanks mate, glad it lined up with your course. Very true about it being forgiving…it’s never too late to fix an issue with Lime.
Thanks for watching pal 👍
Excellent tutorial! I have a few small areas of wall to repair / replaster and watching this has left me feeling confident I can do a good job 👍
Absolutely brilliant video - as a total newbie, with an old house, I did a course at Ty Mawr on lime plastering, and your video is a great refresher. Totally agree their premixed limes are the best to go with - especially if you're just starting out and haven't got a clue like me. Thank you for this!
I bought your course around gypsum based plastering before realising I need to use lime. reallyR appreciate you covering more of the plastering spectrum like this. Nice one!
Not done any lime work for about 4 years, but really enjoyed using it when i did, its a different product , with different techniques to gypsum, but if you do your research before you start then it shouldnt be too daunting. Theres a lot to learn! Get the right advice from the lime suppliers on what products to use, and where to use them. The hardest thing to get used to for most gypsum plasterers is the time between coats, it takes some getting used to. As somebody else suggested though definitely wear the gloves at least, that stuff is brutal.
Just waiting now for the lime experts to catch this video, ill be back to read the comments😂. Good video Blaine, keep em coming👍
Very true, it’s totally different but I always enjoy using it. However, I think the fundamentals are the same. Keep your costs to a maximum of 10mm, apply lots of pressure, rule flat and just respect the waiting times.
The timings are totally different though. Very forgiving unlike Gypsum which is nice. Wish me luck with the comments and thanks for watching 😂
@@PlasteringForBeginners every day is a school day, I've been plastering 33 years, still always something new to learn. I think unless your customers are clued up, the hardest thing is convincing them how long a lime job can take, and the extra costs involved, we know the benefits of lime especially on older properties, but convincing the customers is another matter, most just want quickest/ cheapest option. Good luck 👍
@@HappyTyke25 how much more expensive is it to use lime ?
@@memecoinmafia2732 every job is individual, so hard to say. It's mainly because of the extra time involved that the cost rises, although I do think lime materials are a bit more expensive than gypsum etc. Maybe someone who uses lime more than I do can help you.
The benefits of using lime is almost always worth the extra cost over time though, especially on older properties that would probably have been plastered with lime originally. It allows a property to breathe like it should. Which is better for damp issues.
Absolutely the best description for beginners I have seen! great talent for timing in this video, showing and explaining all steps, not too much talking or doing, really great teaching. Thank you so much!!!! just one question: is the process the same for outside rendering?
Thank you very much! No, slightly different and you wouldn’t use the top coat as shown in this video
First time watching your tutorial, thank you. Great teaching!!
You’ve made that look easy. Fancy a holiday in France???!!!
Yeap i've got a property in France which needs doing too!
😮
I'm so glad you have covered lime plastering. Its something nobody has taught me and I've wanted to learn. Really useful for old houses. Is there an insulating version with cork or some other material?
Glad you found it useful mate. Not sure to be honest, I’ve personally never seen it but it’s probably out there as you say…I’ll try and look into it for the future 👍
ruclips.net/video/rqH7mO-myak/видео.html - Diathonite Cork insulated plaster video here on RUclips.
There is a ecocork lime plaster but you will get a better thermal value using wool-wood boards with a lime plaster on top
Hemp shiv and perlite
Good content.
Ive got a 1935 bungalow with no cavity wall.
All walls lime. Im renovating so took it all off as some of it had blown.
I initially wanted lime back on but got told too expensive. So gave in to gypsum.
Builders dot and dab ensuite. Week later theres mould on plasterboard. Dot n dab transferred moisture from the wall into the plasterboard. The house is vacant so i do know moisture levels will be high.....as the bungalow is very cold.
Do you think i should revert back to my original plan and go lime?
This process of using lime is there anytime you would use a more breathable plasterboard than gypsum?
Appreciate your comments
Thanks
Superb tutorial, you keep it simple to follow. Lot of seasoned lime spreads can really make a wonderful material so off-putting. Thumbs up!
This is the tutorial I have been waiting for from this channel. 👍
Very well explained, thank you!
We are new . my husband is going to try this using your tutorial
The usual advice for lime plastering or rendering is to apply a progressively weaker mix on successive coats. Does the bagged lime putty product that you used in the video follow that or is it of the same strength throughout? I guess that it is more important when applying external render for weather and frost resistance rather than internal situation you are plastering. The biggest drawback I've found is the drying/setting time but it is much better on stonework or soft brickwork that you find on "heritage" buildings. Thanks for your video series Blaine, they have helped me a heck of a lot in the various jobs I've had on my property in South Cumbria.
You can use the same material,so long as it's not stronger.
Top video. I was hoping you might do a video on lime plastering oneday. Cheers
Thanks for watching mate
Finally a video on this from one of you guys that explains well to somebody who dosent have experience and dosent have somebody with experience to ask
Cheers
Thanks mate, much appreciated! Glad to hear you found it useful 👍
Was the top coat a different product from the original premix product? Or did you just use more water and mix it up longer? Thanks.
Great tutorial even for a beginner like me
Glad it was helpful!
You really are the muts nuts in the plastering world. I applaud you.
Thanks mate. I really appreciate that 👍
So helpful! Thanks 🙏🏻
nice video. thank you... makes me feel like I can do my own place
Great work. Information kept simple. Thank you.
Great explanations as always! Would that type of smooth finish be ok for an outside wall too? Should I use lime wash on top of it for better protection? Have a nice day!
Hi Blaine, Enjoyed the video i know it was a while ago … how much would you charge a m2 for this type of work
Bang on . I've always done a minimum of 4 day's between coats
Cheers pal 👍👍
Hi mate love your videos iv got a whole house to plaster the exterior internal walls as its all been gypsum and soaking wet. Do you have any advice ? Im thinking of using a woodfibre insulation board and lime plaster on top would that be ok ?
You sir are brilliant at your job.
Thank you matey!
I have some mud brick walls (Bulgarian) what preparation should I do before plastering?
I’m new to plastering. Is it a good idea to smooth off the sharp corners if you’re using a brand new trowel?
Yeah, I do matey!
I loved your video and thank you for the encouragement. As of yet, I haven't found anyone who says that we could do this. Like anything else, we just need to do it to get good at it. Again, thank you!!
Love your videos, really helpful content.
I don’t seem to be able to find anywhere that delivers lime plaster. Do you think OCR could be used instead on internal red brick and breeze blocks?
Can we use this to do a texture look wall look?
can you use the same methodolgy using a colour pigment in lime mixture
Great video. How many bags did you use on that area, for each of the stages? Can lime be applied over concrete render or is that just a waste of time? Thanks.
I really want to learn more about lime plastering . Fed up with hardwall / multi
Hi mate. Will this help me stopping getting Salt Peter coming out my 200 year old house. Looking forward to getting some. I had a builder re point my chimney and he added some cement to the lime mix. Is that a good idea? Cheers for the vid. :)
Hi, I live in an old black and white house. Some walls need re-plastering as nothing has been done since 1970s! Top of the walls are solid, but it must be rising damp as old plaster coming off the walls middle to bottom. Damp proof course put in in 1970s too!
I've never done any plastering before, and would like to try to have a go, but with no experience I'm concerned about damp proof course and trying to lime plaster over the walls. Do you think I could attempt this as a lady who likes to try DIY?! Any advice would be welcome! Your video was great to watch. Thankyou
Stupid question… we have bought a log cabin and the kitchen has faux brick backsplash as well as above cabinets. I would love to give the kitchen walls that old world plaster wall look as it will go well with the cabin log walls, and ceiling. Should I just totally remove the faux brick paneling rather than skim over it? Thank you for your help!
So Blaine are you using lime and sand for all 3 coats of plaster ie 1st coat lime and rough sand 2nd coat lime & finer graded sand & final skim coat lime and even finer sand????? thanks for any info great video David.
Great stuff! Thanks for the encouragement. Sounds like we need more natural products on our walls and people who aren't afraid to try and use them!... I'm going for lime but was a bit nervous. This video has helped enormously. Many thanks.
Do you use the same mix for the base and finish coats? Just a difference in water amounts? Thank you!
Great video. Was it the same product for all four coats or were the two finishing coats something different? I've got an old sandstone wall with large patches I need to lime plaster. The existing plaster (very old with hairs in it...not sure if it's lime?) on the rest of the wall is sound. Once I've patched it can I skim the whole lot with the same product?
Curious to know how many bags of each basecoat and finsh coat you used on that wall. I have a simular size wall and can see where they tell what one bag covers. Great video
measure your wall: cm2 or m2. Then multiply times however thick your plaster will be. Then divide by 4 if you are using 1 part lime to 3 parts sand. Round up as your bags will typically be 20kg -25kg. You can add the extra lime to heavy clay soils or your garden if needed.
How would you lime plaster an uneven stone-built masonry wall, which has had the old (non-breathable) cement render removed? Would you potentially apply a third base coat of lime plaster, to help build it out? Really enjoyed this video, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and skills.
A great overview but it has left me nervous!
I have never plastered anything before but am going to give this a go. We're renovating an old house so need to use lime based product. I have an area which is accessible and with a reasonably stable surface to work on.
The real goal is to plaster my attic walls, the existing surface is very crumbly, to the point where I could most likely brush forever and not improve the surface at all. I clearly need to stabilise the wall before working on it. Any suggestions?
Brand new to this, and I've put on my first scratch coat before finding this excellent tutorial. I haven't scored the wall anywhere near as much as you. Do you think I'm heading for trouble with the subsequent coats?
Roughly how many days from start to finish to do all these layers please? Great video
A quick question..I have 10 bags of nhl 3.5 that are about 8 years old, they are still sealed..can i still use them?
What would you use on an internal in use chimney wall?
Great job. Would love to see some external lime rendering!
I’ll film it if I ever get a chance pal 👍
for your 2 base layers, you said 9mm thick. Was that 9mm each base coat or combined?
Thanks for the demo.
If you would like to apply this lime render to an old Bath Ashlar Block that has been painted with an emulsion paint, what product would you use to stabilise / seal the wall as I presume you would not want to kick up dust to remove the paint?
Many thanks
Mate 8.35 you had me cracking up pulling one off 😂 brilliant vid as usual thank you!
😂😂😂
Hi Blaine, great videos! I’m going to try this today. How
long do you mix the water and lime plaster for?
Hi Blaine, great work as always. Sorry I'm in a different subject now, do you know how to slow setting time down? I have a large plasterboarded ceiling to do and the weather isn't in my side, just wondered if you had any tricks up your sleeve. Cheers
Rich
An additive called Xtra time. Gives about an hour.
Or do a running gauge. Stop halfway. Before you final trowel the 1st half. Whack the second have on. Work the joint while still green. You'll find it a lot easier doing big areas once you suss it out
Awesome, thanks neville.
I have seen that extra time stuff but I start the job Tommorrow and I can't find anywhere on the Isle of Wight that sells it lol, will give your method a go, cheers 👍
@@richardpowell9238 Hi. If you can get to a Travis Perkins, they sell Extratime there. It's been a life saver for me on ceilings in the past.
Failing that you could always give cream of tartar a try 🤷♀️
If you can't add a retarder though, what Neville suggested would help you a lot.
Thank you Tara, yes there's one in Ryde I will try get there first thing, I've heard of tartar but didn't know if someone was having a laugh 😂, if I plaster over artex I do a 50/50 mix bondi g and multi that usually slows that down but don't know how bonding will react with plasterboard
@@richardpowell9238 No worries. Many spreads used tartar back in the day but I know some people do still use it if they have nothing else. I think it's about a lid full to a bag but i could be wrong.
Bonding is fine on plasterboard but make sure the boards are in good nick. Sometimes to be on the safe side you'll need to PVA the boards if they've been up a while.
Also, have you tried using a sponge float when you're in trouble? They can help a lot when you're chasing your tail because it brings the plaster back to life for a bit giving you that bit of extra time.
that was informative 🎉
Hi I take it the second base is the same product as the base coat ? Is the top coat different again
Hi Blaine🙋 is there the cost gap between 6:1:1 plaster and this?
Sorry what do you mean mate?? Do you mean sand cement compared to Lime plaster?
i would love to put this on my home, could I just put this right onto the existing siding?
Brilliant tutorial 👏👏👏👏👏
Thank you!
No Worries Man, Keep up the Great content 👍
Excellent work
How do you ensure ~9mm thickness is achieved/consistent for all coats? For the beginners ; )
That's how I did my walls as a DIY job. Did you find that the bottom of the wall dried slower than the top? Water runs downhill! Anyway, great to see you using lime.
It was pretty consistent to be fair but I didn’t over soak the walls. Thanks for watching my friend, hope you’re well
I did notice that the final coat's color is more white. Did you add color to the mix?.
Beat lime plastering video on RUclips
Is it more expensive for lime plastering?. do you have to remove the gypsum first and take back to bare brick
Hi, great video! Are you able to recommend a different brand that i could maybe get from Wickes? Ty Mawr is nowhere near me and as i only want a 1 bag to try their postage delivery charge is quite expensive for me
How do you identify lime plaster on a wall, I have some plastering to do in my house and the previous plasterer i hired used gypsum for a skim coat and since then there has been a damp patch where he repaired the wall, i think it might be lime underneath as the base coat but am not sure
We made ourselves a devil's float just like yours, but are finding it gets gummed up almost immediately with hair from the plaster, which then starts dragging off the lime itself. Are we maybe trying to scratch it up too quickly? Yours looks fairly moist still when you're scratching the second coat. Or maybe our plaster just has more hair in it? We're getting ours from Chalk Down Lime.
Perfect guide mate
Cheers matey
Is the hemp in hemp and lime just a substitute for horsehair or fibres? I was looking at dot and dab plasterboard but as there are gaps between brick and plasterboard, its not as good to get an air tight house. I think lime plaster might be the best for brick/block houses. Great video.
We have a bathroom with plaster walls, how do we take the old plastic tiles off and put on ceramic tiles?
Brilliant bud 💪🏻💪🏻
Cheers pal!
Appreciate the information
Any time! Thanks for watching
Hi, im about to use the same materials as in your video to lime plaster a brick wall (fireplace wall) to prevent damp after a damp solution had been used on the walls (dryzone dryshield cream)
However i am only going 1 meter up the wall where i have removed the gypsum plaster..... can lime plaster be joined to a gypsum plastered wall using scrim tape or similar
Also how many bags of the lime plaster you are using would you recommend for a 7m2 coverage
How do you deal with when the plaster is set at the top and still wet at the bottom?
I do wish more tradesman would take up lime plastering
wow, I just commented on your most recent video how I would like to see you applying lime plaster and this appears,,,,I will be taking the more traditional route of adding horse hair, which is going to be more challenging than using a pre-mix
how do you know when youre meant to use lime instead of regular sand and cement?
Nice video mate; I felt excited when I saw you took a crack (no pun intended) at lime plastering; thanks a lot for your perspective. I did wonder about one thing though: is there a reason why you refrain from using a spatula (speed skim) to give the finish coat a first flattening?
Great vid
Cheers mate
Great work 👍
Thank you
Can someone please offer advise. I have damp issues in my house. I need to skim over lime plaster wall.
My Plasterer is suggesting applying a gypsy/multi finish skim coat. Is this a bad idea? Should I only be skimming in lime to prevent damp issues?
Yes only use lime. Gypsum will make your damp worse
Alright Blaine, hope you're good. I think with this video you've made it really easy for a beginner to use this product 👌
I've never used it but it looks like a really nice product to work with actually.
I built out a step and did my first bit of rendering 2 weeks ago with the help of your garden step video.
Was going to send you some pics on WhatsApp but i forgot. It came out really nice actually 😀
Would adding olive oil soap at the end, strengthen it?
I've been told to "throw" the plaster to the wall by my local NHL supplier/manufacturer (Målarkalk). And when I follow their instructions and water ratio the consistency is a lot thicker and not runny, so it's not possible to work it like you do. Do you know why it's so different? I am based in Sweden so maybe the traditions are different. Otherwise it's pretty similar.
Hi mate where do you the product from.