I love to watch this type of restoration. Unfortunately these eventually will be lost arts . I was in commercial construction here in the states for forty years and miss the gratifying hard work .
Thank you for the comment. Here in the UK I would say over the last 15 years we have increased in the number of crafts people learning this skill. The comradery and humour on construction site make them nice places to work. Also the manual labour keeps you fit.
Thanks for the comment. Historically the old boys used to scratch diamond pattern. I don't think performance wise this had to be the copied. As long as the scratches are wide 3mm - 5mm so the next coat has a good key.
You don't want to be heading south of 5 deg. Also allow that the plaster could take around 7 days to dewater to be frost resistant, depending on the plaster type and substrate. Always best to have a little background heat over the winter months
Brilliant work and very inspiring, how would the product that you’ve put on the walls differ to what was used on my home back in the victorian / Edwardian days, where all the what I assume to be lime render starts to loose it’s bond with the brickwork and literally just pulls off by hand? Is that just a characteristic of lime or did they do something wrong back then? Thanks for uploading the video, really great to see proper craftsmanship.
Hey Michael, the lime processing nowadays is much more refined than 150 years ago. Most calcium oxide for the hot mix now comes from mainly 2 sites in UK, Buxton & Shap. In the past lime burning would have multiply processing site in every town. The lime purity would vary depending on the extraction location. This would give different setting strengths. Lime plaster should not achieve the strength of a modern gypsum plaster. However most failures of existing plaster on historic buildings is due to water ingress, modern living and external impervious barriers.
Hi! Thanks for this video. Can I use just a single layer lime plaster directly over porous concrete wall? Just doing it for the looks. If so, would you recommend applying the plaster while the cement is wet or completely dried? Thanks so much!
Thought I’d give it another try, and say great video, thank you for uploading. Why do you guys do diagonal scratches rather than figure 8 or wavy scratches? Just personal preference or some other reason please
Yes the base and float coat are hot mixed with Calbux and used hot. The top coat is mixed hot but used cold. This is except the laths which I think on this was mixed with 50% NHL 3.5
Maybe 5th times a charm, just wanted to say great video, thank you for uploading. Why do you guys do diagonal scratches rather than figure 8 or wavy scratches? Just personal preference or some other reason please
I think it provides a better key and helps even out shrinkage as it provides uniform reinforcement. That and theres no risk of accidently slipping into a horizontal or vertical join of the block work or lath behind
You could just fix some EML on some counter battens. Probably easiest mix is a NHL 3.5 mixed with 2.5 parts course sand, leave over night. Remix next day....then crack on, dont mess with it to much. 2 coats 1st at 10mm 2nd at 6mm. Mix up NHL 3.5 to 1.5 parts Silica sand leave overnight...same as above. 👍👍
No breathing masks when mixing, no eye protection either. Yes, I know the lads of yore didn't have them, but what were the injuries? A master plasterer told me that when he went on site way back when he looked like a mummy - but he didn't get injured.
Hey, devil float are OK for Bonding or Browning coats, however the scratch size in width using a devil float is 2-3mm. If you are using a traditional lime base coat / float with 3mm> aggregate. There will be an issue with the lime plaster penetrating the scratches. With a lath scratcher this will open up the plaster to 7mm-8mm allowing 3mm> plaster to bond / key better to the backing coat.
Gloves can be an issue working with lime if they get wet or your hands sweat. I personally don't wear gloves when using lime. Lime is fairly stable in a dry form. If your plastering skills are decent and you don't get it all over them constantly lime plaster can be applied without gloves. However, we have guys that have "dry" hands and they have to cover anytime they use lime base materials.
@@UKRestorationServices some people can't hold themselves when it comes to complain about everything... and yet, they can't make better... the video is nice. I didn't even noticed the music in the background, because my attention was on the work and on the explanations 👍💪
I love to watch this type of restoration. Unfortunately these eventually will be lost arts . I was in commercial construction here in the states for forty years and miss the gratifying hard work .
Thank you for the comment. Here in the UK I would say over the last 15 years we have increased in the number of crafts people learning this skill. The comradery and humour on construction site make them nice places to work. Also the manual labour keeps you fit.
Brilliant video again. About to start a church conversion myself and this content is a real help, thanks so much.
Brilliant boys! Nice to see old methods of plastering being kept alive! We’ll presented too!
Thanks for the comment, much appreciated
Great video. Just about to do the laths in my house so this is really useful.
Thank you for the positive comment....much appreciated.
Art work at it's finest
Wow, what an education. Experts.
Now then guys thank you for this video..love this side of plastering proper craftsmanship.keep up the good work.👍🏻
Thanks 👍
Really enjoyed that. Ive never used lime so I appreciated the detail, cheers!
Thank for the comment Jeff, glad you enjoyed it.
Ledgend video brilliant thanks for making this
No problem 👍
Fantastic video 👍👍
Thank you 👍
proper good video, but one thing...i always scratch horizontally, because.......which way does gravity go?!
Thanks for the comment. Historically the old boys used to scratch diamond pattern. I don't think performance wise this had to be the copied. As long as the scratches are wide 3mm - 5mm so the next coat has a good key.
Brilliant informative video. Is there a temperature range that this work can be carried out in? Can it be done over winter?
You don't want to be heading south of 5 deg. Also allow that the plaster could take around 7 days to dewater to be frost resistant, depending on the plaster type and substrate. Always best to have a little background heat over the winter months
@ thank you
Brilliant work and very inspiring, how would the product that you’ve put on the walls differ to what was used on my home back in the victorian / Edwardian days, where all the what I assume to be lime render starts to loose it’s bond with the brickwork and literally just pulls off by hand? Is that just a characteristic of lime or did they do something wrong back then? Thanks for uploading the video, really great to see proper craftsmanship.
Hey Michael, the lime processing nowadays is much more refined than 150 years ago. Most calcium oxide for the hot mix now comes from mainly 2 sites in UK, Buxton & Shap. In the past lime burning would have multiply processing site in every town. The lime purity would vary depending on the extraction location. This would give different setting strengths.
Lime plaster should not achieve the strength of a modern gypsum plaster. However most failures of existing plaster on historic buildings is due to water ingress, modern living and external impervious barriers.
@@UKRestorationServices thank you for taking the time to reply, would really like to learn more about it so your video was great!
A lot of it has got to do with type of sand. Leighton Buzzard sand is the best for stickability.
Hi! Thanks for this video. Can I use just a single layer lime plaster directly over porous concrete wall? Just doing it for the looks. If so, would you recommend applying the plaster while the cement is wet or completely dried? Thanks so much!
I would say it needs to be damp, not fully dried. You could probably get away with one base coat and a top coat.
Brilliant video, I want to come and work with you lot
Thanks for the comment Chris. Send us your details, we work all over the UK.
@@UKRestorationServices been at it for over 20 years, just never get the chance to use lime much... miles more rewarding
Thought I’d give it another try, and say great video, thank you for uploading. Why do you guys do diagonal scratches rather than figure 8 or wavy scratches? Just personal preference or some other reason please
You find the diagonal scratches historically in old plaster. However I would suggest as long as a good key is formed the pattern is irrelevant.
@@UKRestorationServices thank you very much)
Are you using lime putty and sand for 1st coat? what do you use for 2nd and 3rd coat?? David
Yes the base and float coat are hot mixed with Calbux and used hot. The top coat is mixed hot but used cold. This is except the laths which I think on this was mixed with 50% NHL 3.5
do you ever use flax fiber? If so, how does it compare to the fiberglass stuff?
Just hair. Read Nigel copsey
You can use hemp rope
Maybe 5th times a charm, just wanted to say great video, thank you for uploading. Why do you guys do diagonal scratches rather than figure 8 or wavy scratches? Just personal preference or some other reason please
I think it provides a better key and helps even out shrinkage as it provides uniform reinforcement. That and theres no risk of accidently slipping into a horizontal or vertical join of the block work or lath behind
@@Parkour_People Thank you)
Hi , i have a little cabin made with Osb. And i would love to try Lime plaster. Is it possible or not? What are the recipe for thé three stages?
You could just fix some EML on some counter battens. Probably easiest mix is a NHL 3.5 mixed with 2.5 parts course sand, leave over night. Remix next day....then crack on, dont mess with it to much. 2 coats 1st at 10mm 2nd at 6mm. Mix up NHL 3.5 to 1.5 parts Silica sand leave overnight...same as above. 👍👍
@@UKRestorationServices thanks
I wanna juxtapose this with the tour of a drywall plant, and the living conditions of their laborers in the drywall plant
Is that a hot mix with quicklime ?
Yes, the plaster hot mixed with Calbux 90, except the top coat.
I'm surprised he's not wearing gloves.
Lime burns my skin into stingy rashy sores, takes 2-3 weeks to heal.Very caustic!
We have guys who are effect with lime on their hand and always wear gloves. Others it doesn't really bother. Vinegar at the end of the day helps.
It depends on your skin type. It doesn't bother some whereas it burns others. Weird. It never bothers me.
No breathing masks when mixing, no eye protection either. Yes, I know the lads of yore didn't have them, but what were the injuries? A master plasterer told me that when he went on site way back when he looked like a mummy - but he didn't get injured.
his mates are so gona say if you will for the next 2 weeks every 8 minutes!
All proper tradesmen are only on youtube now. All rest just cowboys. Especially in essex.
Hopefully people will be more confident to have go after watching
🤠 I'm a cowboy
That’s nonsense some people just want to go to work and rnt interested in filming for RUclips
If you say so shaggy
I thought you weren’t supposed to use lime plaster below 5°C?
if its hot mixed on a internal wall you'd probably be ok with light frosts
Not sure if my comments are being filtered or deleted
Hey, comments are on for this video and are not being filtered.
Boys own stuff
If u will
Per se
Thought you were adding asbestos 😅
Can you even buy asbestos anymore???
Plasters use a devil float to scratch the plaster that makes the key
Hey, devil float are OK for Bonding or Browning coats, however the scratch size in width using a devil float is 2-3mm. If you are using a traditional lime base coat / float with 3mm> aggregate. There will be an issue with the lime plaster penetrating the scratches. With a lath scratcher this will open up the plaster to 7mm-8mm allowing 3mm> plaster to bond / key better to the backing coat.
If you don't have lath, could you use nails/screws bashed through a bit of wood?
Luke needs to get some gloves on
Gloves can be an issue working with lime if they get wet or your hands sweat. I personally don't wear gloves when using lime. Lime is fairly stable in a dry form. If your plastering skills are decent and you don't get it all over them constantly lime plaster can be applied without gloves. However, we have guys that have "dry" hands and they have to cover anytime they use lime base materials.
The music is totally distracting and unnecessary, I want to hear what is being said, not the thump thump thump of the beat. Please, drop the racket.
Thanks for the comment.....noted.
Dudes rock!
I totally agree! It's like listening to music on some boring induction video on a building site 😂. Very good explanation though.
@@MrDziuka dudes rock tho
@@UKRestorationServices
some people can't hold themselves when it comes to complain about everything... and yet, they can't make better... the video is nice. I didn't even noticed the music in the background, because my attention was on the work and on the explanations 👍💪
Masks, no excuses masks.
Shut it