Thanks! Just inherited a 2002 and got it running. Hard to believe they put a restrictor in place that is so easy to remove. Already knew most of this except the clutch workings so that was very helpful. Runs fast in mid rpm but takeoff is weak. Thanks Brent
If takeoff is weak, I'd probably leave the restrictor or try it both ways. Sometimes they take off slower with the restrictor out because the belt doesn't get to the best low speed ratio anymore. Stiffer clutch springs may be helpful for you. Thanks!
Man you could not have presented this any more clearly!, I don't have all the tools, so I think I will just expand the hole from exhaust to manifold, and try that first, even though my instinct for measure was to do this first. Thank you for preventing me damage or mistake to this, and I hope to do this as well. 10/10
People, doing this, you will lose acceleration in "first gear" but gain top speed (provided that the spacer lets your belt sit closer to the shaft). It can be quite dramatic, like 10 km/h. Go ahead and experiment and see what you prefer. BUT, before you experiment or do anything, READ THIS and do not throw this spacer away! I'm only talking about the small spacers here. The big one is an obvious restriction and should be removed without issue. When reassembling, the conical washer that is used with the nut (also make sure to install conical washer the right way), should NOT touch the splines of the shaft. The conical washer should sit against the "whatever you call it other part". If that conical washer even slightly touches the splines, it will eat the splines away when you torque it, especially with an impact gun (which most people use). Have fun disassembling and repairing your splines and other damaged parts after that (if at all possible). This is applicable to Yamaha BWS of all years and probably most other brands of scooter. When checking if the spacer is required in the assembly (and given the tight tolerance of the assembly, I'm sure it's required 95% of times), make sure to give your belt some slack so that you see the real final assembly position, or even better check without a belt. If you can see the splines, or if it looks like that washer might touch the splines, or if in doubt, you need to put that spacer back, or another spacer of the appropriate thickness to protect the splines. The spacer should be over the splines if you go for this mod. You can put the spacer either completely at the back or at the front. Now you may think, but I've already done this and removed the spacer completely and everything is fine. Think again! This is a conical washer. It will sit slightly differently against the splines everytime you torque it. The first 15 times might be fine, but the 16th time it might completely destroy your splines away. You will potentially be screwed and very sad. Removing the spacer will also slightly affect the kick start mechanism. It automatically becomes "looser" if you completely remove the spacer (the mechanism has to go farther to engage). I'm not aware if this can lead to issues, but it's definitely not impossible. To recap: If you can see the splines when you're about to put the conical washer, you have a problem! You need a spacer. Put it completely at the back or at the front so that the splines are protected from that conical washer. Edit: after careful analysis, I believe it's better to put the spacer completely at the back of the variator (if you do the mod). This keeps the belt in a more natural enlignment to facilitate reaching the highest speed possible. If you completely remove the spacer or put it in front, the belt is angled in a way that doesn't help pushing the torque drive to it's "highest gear" position. P.S. If looking for top speed, have a look at your contra spring. Ensure that it is completely seated and free to rotate in it's location in your clutch. If it isn't completely seated even by 1 mm, it could affect your top speed quite a bit. Grind it (both the face or outside diameter, as required) until it's completely seated. Also look at the compressed length of your contra spring versus your torque drive. In the absolute "highest gear" position, my clutch leaves exactly 3cm for a compressed contra spring. The blue and red contra springs I have here, when I compressed them, are both exactly 3cm. This means that the torque drive has to COMPLETELY crush the spring for you to reach top speed. For the blue one, that means 65 pounds of pressure (measured on a body scale). For the red one, that's approx 100 pounds. That's a whole lot of force required on your spring for you to reach absolute top speed. Hence why you shouldn't use the stiffest contra springs unless you absolutely have to. You're most welcome. Remember to share your knowledge! Further reading: www.pedparts.co.uk/blog/variator-fitting-crankshaft-pulley-spline-damage benelliquattronove.wordpress.com/2018/06/05/scooter-cvt-variator-tuning-tip/
Great instructional video. I did this mod years ago without the benefit of this excellent video. Clear and to the point. I also removed the restrictor from the pipe that made a huge difference! I've got a 45 mph little monster. Question: Do you have recommend any mods for airbox/filter and or different (hotter) plug as a result of these two mods? Seems like with both mods I may need to adjust airflow and/or jetting. Thanks for the great video!!
Fantastic thanks man. Watched a ton of these but yours is the only one that works 🙂 I've a Yamaha BWS 100 and I'm fixing it tomorrow on your good advice!
Amazing Video. You do an excellent job of giving the perfect amount of detail and background information to help a novice complete the job. One question. What is the name of the tool that you use to hold the variator in place at 7:05 into the video? Thank you for all your help!
Hey there, first and foremost your my #1 scooter parts expert when it comes to 50cc's. Keep up the good work buddy. I have a gy6 50cc that I'm reassembling from scratch due to blowing the engine compartment due to lack of oil, thats my luck I guess. I'm keeping all working parts and swapping the bad parts. I've gotten lucky as not to replace too many parts but, I did manage to damage a main component. I believe it's the gearbox breather, a white plastic valve that sits 2 bolts from the left of the gearbox drain bolt. So my questions are, what is the correct name of the part and, where can I find it if possible? Thanks a lot
i actually got one of these little scooters for like 10 bucks once, it was missing all the plastic ferrings and alot of the wiring was ruined including it had no spark. i looked up a service manual on line and found the blue and green wire need hooked to like the ground and the red wire and the brown wire are the kill switch and they need connected for it to run. once i fixed the spark i cut the muffler off hoping it would run better. turns out the carb is so small it needs that much back pressure to even run well at all. i got a much less restrictive muffler and took a torch tip cleaner and filed the jet out a little bigger and it runs solid now. does a solid 25 miles an hour. removing the restrictor will probably make it go 30 top speed. the motor revs up pretty solid so i think if it had more gear it would go faster. it revs only so high and then it starts four stroking
There may be more in it with some fine tuning of the carb as well. Four-stroking makes me think that either the mix is off or there is some sort of rev limiter. I don't think it should have one, but you can always put it on the stand securely and see if it will rev higher without load. If it revs more than on the road, then it's not an RPM limiter causing your troubles in real world use.
holy sh... poop :))) this actualy explains alot clearly ! its so simple .. no more scooter mecanics with alot of $$ dumped ... u can do it at home , its simple !
This looks so similar to a 2005 Zuma, I have the parts to replace the transmission with an NCY Kit. You sold me on getting an impact now. To Harbor Freight I go.
Just be careful using it to tighten. Use a torque stick. With low power impact guns you may be OK, but anything with much power will strip threads on the crank eventually.
@@49ccscoot Taking in your expertise, would a pin wrench immobilize the Clutch Bell and Variator? I am looking at a decent affordable Torque wrench to use to remove the lock nuts and to reinstall them.
@@Bert439 Yeah. Holding the variator (via the flywheel) is shown. The clutch bell has plenty of spots for it too. Don't use a torque wrench to remove things. Just use it to tighten.
I use a cordless drill with adjustable torque. A $6 bit set lets you use sockets with your drill. A Ryobi P271 Drill specifies 340 in. lb. of torque in the manual. (38.4 Nm) There are 24 settings on the drill. So you'll get about 1.6Nm per setting on the drill. Taking off the variator nut without an impact wrench is a pain. To help remove the variator nut there is a video on using a half inch thick or so piece of wood with bolts and a hole cut for the socket. Video: ruclips.net/video/5AbwtGP1bjI/видео.html It's not perfect, but seems to work ok for me. Make sure you get the service manual for your scooter and find out the torque specs for whatever you're dealing with. Drill socket adapter: amzn.to/2tV9BNX
This was extremely detailed and educational. Do you have one for removing the airbag and carb on the Vino 50? Mine won't start this year. Also, does the restrictor information apply to the Zuma 50 as well? Thank you. Liked and subscribed.
I don't have other videos specifically about the Vino because I only had the engine. I don't think the Zuma should have the same ring. They have other restrictions, like the CDI on 4T models or the throttle on 2T models.
@49ccScoot thanks for actually reply to comments unlike other RUclipsrs. I also have a Derbi runner 50 and its just like the aprilia sr50. I ran into one day that it is slow at start when getting up to speed and the rpm dropped from 7000 to 6000. I changed the belt and removed the 6g rollers and put in 5g. Since the exhaust is the original i checked it for restrictors and used a blow torch on it until i had smoke and flames coming out from the exhaust on idle. So i burned the catalysator clean i think but there is a air inlet on the exhaust that.draws air from the airbox and in to the exhaust. Also there is two blocked tubes running out from it also. I tried burning everything. Can i cut of the blocked pipes and the.air.inlet to the exhaust, and also cut open the last shiny part that i think is the catalysator and weld it back togheter? Maybe that will give it more performance? Anyway after burning the exhaust and 5g rollers i made it back to steadily 7500 rpm all the time even uphill and on the flats BUT its not as fast uphill as it was before. This is my fiances bike and you know i always gets complaints about the lack of performance. And of course i need to fix this with the things i have and not spend any money. The scooter is lacking will to start in a uphill and it feels like it slips or like it won't grip and get going. My own scooter is a a different league and its like im on a motorcycle compared to the derbi. I am to open it up again, check reeds, check airbox, maybe rejet from i think 85 back to 75.main.jet and of course look at cvt and see if the belt is to wide in the front or to low in the back. Tried be very spesific.. Can you maybe give me some ideas? I know two stroke so using a wrench is easy for me. Also it has downhill when releasing the throttle and after few seconds give it wot again hesitate for a loooong time before kicking back..thats why i was thinking reeds. You have any ideas about that also? I was thinking about fitting a red torque spring i have laying here but im not sure what it does..thats why I have been spending 5 hours now looking on utube about springs. Still not sure. The clutch engages about at 5000rpm.and it has red clutch springs. Also wanted to mention that. No restritor on variator of course. Thank you!! Ps just subbed as well. :) U wanna see freedive visit me
I only had the engine itself. I bought it just to see the 5BM's special case design for myself. Usually if there is a restricition in a header, it's right at the end and easy to see.
Lots of things. My first choice is to not have a 50 anymore by installing a big bore kit. Sport 70cc kits are a big improvement in power. You can put an exhaust on a 2T and get nice gains, but I still prefer the BBK first. If more power is desired after that, then get an exhaust for the 70cc setup.
Thanx again for the info..I had big bikes my whole life but was in a bad wreck a few years back..now I'm back on a bike but started with a scooter ..looks Luke a grom and it's fun as hell but I'd like to have enough speed to get to doctor appointments without bothering g trafic..limit is 40mph so I jst need 10 mph.. great for me tho I've missed riding so damn much
@@49ccscoot I checked and even going downhill it dosnt ever red like or get past 7 grand.. so yeah probably restricted.. I dnt dare mess with it for now but if I ever see someone like you who knows a thing or two I'd love to do what I can to upgrade in a reliable way... either way I'm so glad to be back on 2 wheels so I shouldn't fly to high ..il end up like icarus..lol
great video like the details I have a 2021 super 50cc scooter that will not go over 22mph and it doesn't have a restrictor washer on it just check a hr ago . so is it the rollers? cuz I'm at a loss
What crankcase gasket? Usually 2Ts don't have a gasket between the case halves. They use a sealant there, like ThreeBond. If you mean the one for the CVT cover, then I would check Yamaha first. If you can't find a Yamaha gasket, a gasket for the 1E40QMB Chinese clone looks like it should fit.
I own a 2006 Yamaha Vino 50. Experiencing trouble. From cold start motor runs 45 mph easily. Once the motor warms drops down to about 15 and does not get better miss badly. I am thinking stator or coil. Recommendations?
Sometimes the simple stuff works, so replace the spark plug and make sure the cap is snug. If that doesn't do it, gap the plug to roughly half the usual spec. Something like 0.012"-0.014". If that clears it up, something in the ignition system is weak.
@@49ccscoot thank you. I truly enjoy my little scooter. When I got it it had 501 mile. It now has almost 10,000 . Other than this issue I'm having now the only thing I've ever done has been changed the spark plug the tires and a proper maintenance oil changing every 500 to 750 MI
TBH I don't have much experience with those. Here's some info that may help : 49ccscoot.proboards.com/post/320297/thread www3.telus.net/MyScoot/metropolitan.html
Hello I have a yamaha cr90 target from the factory has 788 15,5 28 belt I have the same problem the belt sitting low on back plates, how we can do the belt to sit in upper position in back plates? Longer belt?
You can check to see what you need. If you take the fixed half off of the front pulley, the belt can then sit right on the drive boss. You may have to rotate the pulleys a few times. If it then rides near the edge of the rear pulley, then you could get there by spacing the front pulley. If it still doesn't reach, the belt isn't long enough to do it.
Wondering if you can help, I've got my 50 cc 2005 Vino running after sitting for 5 years, but will not throttle up to the max, even after carb is extremely clean, new plug, air filter etc. any ideas what it could be? TIA
Even with the carb "extremely clean", if it won't throttle up to max (assuming you mean you can't use full throttle) I would check the main jet to be certain it's clear. Not a bad idea to be sure it wasn't damaged in cleaning, like opened up to a larger orifice size. Any more details about what it does when you try to use full throttle may be helpful.
I know this is an old video but, can this work on a 2019 metropolitan? It currently hits 37 - 38 mph. What else can help it go fast? My kid weigh like 65lbs and I 205lbs still same top speed.
It won't get you much stock in some cases. For me, being heavy, it slows down acceleration and doesn't change speed by more than a couple MPH. If you added a pipe and still had the restrictor though, the extra horsepower could make better use of more belt travel.
I'm not familiar with exactly how or if that scooter is restricted, but this is a fairly common practice. Some even use a drive boss with one end cut to be a built in restrictor. In those cases, you have to replace the drive boss or have it machined down.
I just took my clutches apart yesterday and notice that the small washer was behind the primary clutch, engine side. I just bout this from someone with 4k miles, and I can tell someone already did the mod, but left that shim behind the clutch?? What does that do? I took it out completely, put in a new belt, cleaned the clutches, and didn't notice any boost taking that shim out. Feels like I lost low end torque if anything. As for the big washer, it was not in there.
If it's behind the variator, it's just spacing the variator outward. Make sure removing it didn't cause any problems with tightening and the splines aren't showing past the kick pawl.
@@49ccscoot Yeah removing it ended up damaging the splines and I over tightened. So now I need a new crack shaft... so it's down until next spring. Hope no one makes the same mistake. If only I had just left it in there. I think i also blew a head gasket too, cause I can no longer start it, and only get maybe 95-100psi on compression. Just got it last week too for 300 bucks. Cleaned everything and thought everything felt good, but was still having hard time with keeping it going... But yesterday it shit the bed.
If you want the most from it, I'd try it both ways and see what happens. Your current speed is pretty much on par and that's a big gain so my guess is that it's not going to make much difference.
Notifications seem to be working OK for at least some, because I have subs watching almost as soon as I upload. I have noticed my own subscriptions have been a little different with notifications lately though, so YT may be working on something. Not sure. Here's a help article about notifications : support.google.com/youtube/answer/7391308
This is maybe the only, and certainly the easiest, "derestriction" that you can make to the later Vino years, with the 4-stroke engines. On the 4 stroke you should get 4mph improvement without a noticeable detriment to acceleration, as long as you weigh under 180 or so. The heavier you are, the more the speed will be at the expense of acceleration. Truly, I think 50cc is a machine for riders under 160 lbs. . Can any owner of 4-stroke Vino 50s confirm my experience ?
I don't think so. If you can secure it on the center stand, you can rev it (as briefly as possible) and see how high the RPMs go to be sure. It must be secure though. You don't want it taking off if the tire touches the ground. If it will reach above 10,000RPM, it;s probably not restricted.
@@49ccscoot .and Nasty Nate....Just for some kids who might not understand....when the scoot is on a stand or jack, it has zero drive load and will rex to max. On the road with a rider, the drive rpm is held down by HP and torque working against load inertia, friction, and wind resistance.
It depends on the state. Laws vary across all 50 states. Most common laws will require you to be 16 years old and the scooters usually aren't supposed to go over somewhere between 25-40MPH. Usually needs to be 50cc or less or it requires a motorcycle license. Horsepower limitations in some areas. Again, it can all vary though.
@@thomas6963ify That does sound stupid. lol I thought 25MPH was bad in some states. It's 30MPH in my state. I've seen videos of scooter dynos and such, so I know they pay attention to scoots much more overseas. Where I am, they're so few and far between that most police don't pay much attention to me.
I'm trying to restore a scooter(yamaha jog aprio 1996 model) with the same exact engine here in Japan, genuine parts are quite expensive, used or unused.
A member of my forum is working on a Jog in the US and having to source some of the parts from Japan and other parts of the world. Being older, they seem to think parts are just drying up.
5:22 so do I just order a belt size up? Mine runs something like 18 30 69 (obviously in the wrong order but you get what I'm saying) I also put an aftermarket air filter and staggered 5 6 and 7 gram rollers in the front varietal hitting 40 pretty quickly. I know a decent amount about mopeds since I've worked with them and on mine a lot but there's always more to learn. That's the way I like to think anyway. Someone please let me know! Thank you!
You can try to check if your belt is capable of reaching out farther first. If so, try more CVT tuning. Usually you only stagger 2 different weights for balance reasons.
Can a scooter cvt lock up the back wheel if something goes wrong like a bearing/ clutch goes or something comes loose or it will it just free wheel normally ?
Most of the time you won't get a lock up with a failure. I've had belts break and kinda jam in there enough to make the tire lockup. A gearbox failure could cause a lockup. The clutch bell is mechanically linked to the gearbox and rear wheel, but the rest could slip. Not likely to have an engine blow and lock the rear wheel. Not saying it can't happen, but it's much less likely than most other transmissions.
@@49ccscoot thanks for reply. Just that there is like a bearing noise developed in the cvt cover. It's done low kms only 8700. You know that slight metallic noise like when a bearing wears. It's at idle. On a 125cc. Should the cvt be noise free is there any basic test I csn do without removing the cvt cover. Not a really loud noise . Thanks again.
Open it up, see whats in there. Also loosen the muffler and look for a restrictor in there, wheere the pipe meets the engine, sometimes the restrictor was the gasket and a new gasket from an u restricted model was needed to reseal pipe. Also, remove airbox so you can see the piston in the carb and make sure when you twist throttle the carb slide or piston goes all the way up. I worked at a shop in 06 and a great guy named Jason did all the new scooter setup and predeliveries, as well as getting trade-ins ready for resale. so i got to pick up tons of the rings and flat washer exhaust restrictors cause when he serviced used machines he had a way of pulling restrictors and giving them a polite toss in some random direction. We had so much fun back then, and I wish i realized then how good i had it. You could pull the carb slider and check for a white plastic ring on top that limits its travel, different approach to removi g airbox. 70s, early 80s scooters had a screw right on the throttle at the handlebar grip, youth model bikes and atvs still use those to this day. And to be honest i dont recall the bws50, in 06 specifically, if it had a carb or was injected for example. and i left that dealership in 07 right as the first 08 models were coming out. But my info is correct and on any scooter its easy to check for these common restrictors.
Hello, i love your videos and win 1 more sub, i´m Johne form Portugal, i have one yamaha neos 50cc engine stock and she dont pass of 70km/h, what can i do without install a 70cc kit to make it run a little more fast? Thanks
Nice vidio..I have a stt dongfang scooter.iwant more speed but not at the expense of take off torque or hill power it barely goes now..lol. if u see this and can help me out with I fo id apriciate it..some say to snip a certain wire for derestrict. But I dno about cutting g wires on a new scooter..hence why I'm here
I don't know any specifics about DongFang scooters. Some people think they're restricted just because they don't realize what a stock 49cc normally does. There are some scooters that have a wire that can be cut to remove a rev limit. If you aren't feeling it hit a limit, it may not have one.
@@49ccscoot thanx for the info..mine does seem like it has more to give . At top speed it's not revving very high .its very low pitch. Definitely not whining like a 50 should .but I could be wrong it goes 35 i got my wife a regular scooter and hers is a little slower so idno ice heard about that wire for rev limit but I dnt wana hurt the bike or make it break from playing with stuff..your awsome thanx for the reply .means the world
@@joshuataft5541 If you have a tach or a timing light with a tach built in, you can try to see if it indeed stops at a low RPM. I just put mine on the center stand and rev it briefly. You just have to be very sure that the scoot is secure and the tire cannot touch the ground or it won't end well.
@@49ccscoot can I do it while riding it my scooter looks like a honda from motorcycle. It jst has a regular kik stand. I realy apriciate you replying...I used to ride street bikes and I got hurt bad so I downsized to this..at top speed it sounds like the rpms are low but I will look at the tac I have a digital gauge/tac
@@49ccscoot I have looked at the wiring harnesses..it has two different ones..I dnt dare pull a wire .yet.lol but if it would help and not hurt I'm all for it lol... mine is called a stt dongfang.i think it's a gy6 engine but idno for sure
I had weird thing happen. I lost all my sub channels. Could i ask your advise on some things ? Yes i know the forums are full of what i seek. But i think you are the person i can ask. Simple stuff, just a confirmation of what i have come up with - for ideas ? A bounce off so to speak. Ok with that - pick your brain a bit.
I traded a junk taotao last night for a Vino engine and frame is the Vino engine the same as the jog engine they sure look the same I'm getting ready to buy a jog guy said it set for 10 years that's why I decided to pick this engine up just in case the jog needed one but if it won't work going to sell it or something
@@49ccscoot cool this was a 04 vino the jog is a old one a artistic spec she's old wish there was a way to start the vino engine before I install it I was going to hook the wires up to my prebug and try to fire it but they are different
@@49ccscoot yup your right there that thing them guys was useing in that video you posted of the exploding Bell was kind of a cool jig the bell exploding sucked never seen that happened before that was nuts going to invest in a high performance Bell after that tid bit
Thanks! Just inherited a 2002 and got it running. Hard to believe they put a restrictor in place that is so easy to remove. Already knew most of this except the clutch workings so that was very helpful. Runs fast in mid rpm but takeoff is weak. Thanks Brent
If takeoff is weak, I'd probably leave the restrictor or try it both ways. Sometimes they take off slower with the restrictor out because the belt doesn't get to the best low speed ratio anymore. Stiffer clutch springs may be helpful for you. Thanks!
Picking up this same model tomorrow and am glad I checked out your video... definitely doing both these easy upgrades
Man you could not have presented this any more clearly!, I don't have all the tools, so I think I will just expand the hole from exhaust to manifold, and try that first, even though my instinct for measure was to do this first. Thank you for preventing me damage or mistake to this, and I hope to do this as well. 10/10
Probably one of the best detailed video on you tube. Many Thanks.
People, doing this, you will lose acceleration in "first gear" but gain top speed (provided that the spacer lets your belt sit closer to the shaft). It can be quite dramatic, like 10 km/h. Go ahead and experiment and see what you prefer. BUT, before you experiment or do anything, READ THIS and do not throw this spacer away! I'm only talking about the small spacers here. The big one is an obvious restriction and should be removed without issue.
When reassembling, the conical washer that is used with the nut (also make sure to install conical washer the right way), should NOT touch the splines of the shaft. The conical washer should sit against the "whatever you call it other part". If that conical washer even slightly touches the splines, it will eat the splines away when you torque it, especially with an impact gun (which most people use). Have fun disassembling and repairing your splines and other damaged parts after that (if at all possible). This is applicable to Yamaha BWS of all years and probably most other brands of scooter. When checking if the spacer is required in the assembly (and given the tight tolerance of the assembly, I'm sure it's required 95% of times), make sure to give your belt some slack so that you see the real final assembly position, or even better check without a belt.
If you can see the splines, or if it looks like that washer might touch the splines, or if in doubt, you need to put that spacer back, or another spacer of the appropriate thickness to protect the splines. The spacer should be over the splines if you go for this mod. You can put the spacer either completely at the back or at the front. Now you may think, but I've already done this and removed the spacer completely and everything is fine. Think again! This is a conical washer. It will sit slightly differently against the splines everytime you torque it. The first 15 times might be fine, but the 16th time it might completely destroy your splines away. You will potentially be screwed and very sad.
Removing the spacer will also slightly affect the kick start mechanism. It automatically becomes "looser" if you completely remove the spacer (the mechanism has to go farther to engage). I'm not aware if this can lead to issues, but it's definitely not impossible.
To recap:
If you can see the splines when you're about to put the conical washer, you have a problem! You need a spacer. Put it completely at the back or at the front so that the splines are protected from that conical washer.
Edit: after careful analysis, I believe it's better to put the spacer completely at the back of the variator (if you do the mod). This keeps the belt in a more natural enlignment to facilitate reaching the highest speed possible. If you completely remove the spacer or put it in front, the belt is angled in a way that doesn't help pushing the torque drive to it's "highest gear" position.
P.S. If looking for top speed, have a look at your contra spring. Ensure that it is completely seated and free to rotate in it's location in your clutch. If it isn't completely seated even by 1 mm, it could affect your top speed quite a bit. Grind it (both the face or outside diameter, as required) until it's completely seated. Also look at the compressed length of your contra spring versus your torque drive. In the absolute "highest gear" position, my clutch leaves exactly 3cm for a compressed contra spring. The blue and red contra springs I have here, when I compressed them, are both exactly 3cm. This means that the torque drive has to COMPLETELY crush the spring for you to reach top speed. For the blue one, that means 65 pounds of pressure (measured on a body scale). For the red one, that's approx 100 pounds. That's a whole lot of force required on your spring for you to reach absolute top speed. Hence why you shouldn't use the stiffest contra springs unless you absolutely have to.
You're most welcome. Remember to share your knowledge!
Further reading:
www.pedparts.co.uk/blog/variator-fitting-crankshaft-pulley-spline-damage
benelliquattronove.wordpress.com/2018/06/05/scooter-cvt-variator-tuning-tip/
Best video i've seen in a while. Straight to the point. Nice tutorial. You gor yourself a new subscriber😁
Great instructional video. I did this mod years ago without the benefit of this excellent video. Clear and to the point. I also removed the restrictor from the pipe that made a huge difference! I've got a 45 mph little monster. Question: Do you have recommend any mods for airbox/filter and or different (hotter) plug as a result of these two mods? Seems like with both mods I may need to adjust airflow and/or jetting. Thanks for the great video!!
Mint, no bull. Just straight forward, good information. Thanks.
Very good presentation skills. I learned a lot. Thanks for taking the time to create this video.
Excellent teaching, description and helpful tips 🙂👍
Fantastic thanks man. Watched a ton of these but yours is the only one that works 🙂 I've a Yamaha BWS 100 and I'm fixing it tomorrow on your good advice!
What results did u get
Excellent very comprehensive and can be applied to other scooters
Thanks
Nice Video.
Greetings from Scooter Community Germany 👍🏻
This is such a good video. So much great information provided. Thank you!
Brilliant vlog, Thank you very much.
So clear and well explained, thank you!
Amazing Video. You do an excellent job of giving the perfect amount of detail and background information to help a novice complete the job. One question. What is the name of the tool that you use to hold the variator in place at 7:05 into the video? Thank you for all your help!
Variator holding tool or variator locking tool. Somewhere like ScooterTuning should have them.
Hey there, first and foremost your my #1 scooter parts expert when it comes to 50cc's. Keep up the good work buddy. I have a gy6 50cc that I'm reassembling from scratch due to blowing the engine compartment due to lack of oil, thats my luck I guess. I'm keeping all working parts and swapping the bad parts. I've gotten lucky as not to replace too many parts but, I did manage to damage a main component. I believe it's the gearbox breather, a white plastic valve that sits 2 bolts from the left of the gearbox drain bolt. So my questions are, what is the correct name of the part and, where can I find it if possible? Thanks a lot
Is it actually a valve or just a barb/nipple? Usually that's just an overflow.
90GTVert got it, thanks a ton.
i actually got one of these little scooters for like 10 bucks once, it was missing all the plastic ferrings and alot of the wiring was ruined including it had no spark. i looked up a service manual on line and found the blue and green wire need hooked to like the ground and the red wire and the brown wire are the kill switch and they need connected for it to run. once i fixed the spark i cut the muffler off hoping it would run better. turns out the carb is so small it needs that much back pressure to even run well at all. i got a much less restrictive muffler and took a torch tip cleaner and filed the jet out a little bigger and it runs solid now. does a solid 25 miles an hour. removing the restrictor will probably make it go 30 top speed. the motor revs up pretty solid so i think if it had more gear it would go faster. it revs only so high and then it starts four stroking
There may be more in it with some fine tuning of the carb as well. Four-stroking makes me think that either the mix is off or there is some sort of rev limiter. I don't think it should have one, but you can always put it on the stand securely and see if it will rev higher without load. If it revs more than on the road, then it's not an RPM limiter causing your troubles in real world use.
Very, very comprehensive, Thank you so much!
holy sh... poop :))) this actualy explains alot clearly ! its so simple .. no more scooter mecanics with alot of $$ dumped ... u can do it at home , its simple !
You're a natural teacher! Fantastic video!! Subscribed.
Is it possible the conical washer went in backwards?
It did go in backwards. Nice catch!
This looks so similar to a 2005 Zuma, I have the parts to replace the transmission with an NCY Kit. You sold me on getting an impact now. To Harbor Freight I go.
Just be careful using it to tighten. Use a torque stick. With low power impact guns you may be OK, but anything with much power will strip threads on the crank eventually.
@@49ccscoot Taking in your expertise, would a pin wrench immobilize the Clutch Bell and Variator? I am looking at a decent affordable Torque wrench to use to remove the lock nuts and to reinstall them.
@@Bert439 Yeah. Holding the variator (via the flywheel) is shown. The clutch bell has plenty of spots for it too. Don't use a torque wrench to remove things. Just use it to tighten.
I use a cordless drill with adjustable torque. A $6 bit set lets you use sockets with your drill. A Ryobi P271 Drill specifies 340 in. lb. of torque in the manual. (38.4 Nm) There are 24 settings on the drill. So you'll get about 1.6Nm per setting on the drill. Taking off the variator nut without an impact wrench is a pain. To help remove the variator nut there is a video on using a half inch thick or so piece of wood with bolts and a hole cut for the socket. Video: ruclips.net/video/5AbwtGP1bjI/видео.html It's not perfect, but seems to work ok for me. Make sure you get the service manual for your scooter and find out the torque specs for whatever you're dealing with. Drill socket adapter: amzn.to/2tV9BNX
This was extremely detailed and educational. Do you have one for removing the airbag and carb on the Vino 50? Mine won't start this year. Also, does the restrictor information apply to the Zuma 50 as well? Thank you. Liked and subscribed.
I don't have other videos specifically about the Vino because I only had the engine.
I don't think the Zuma should have the same ring. They have other restrictions, like the CDI on 4T models or the throttle on 2T models.
@@49ccscoot ok my Zuma is a 50cc 2T. Any way to get a little more mph on top? Like restrictive device removal? TY
@@flat6fever680 Depending on the year... www.zumasrus.com/zdox/zprod14.html
Great job! Well presented.
great video mate. thanks for posting and you are a wealth of knowledge. i have a vino 125, would this be the same kinda process?
Quite similar setup, but I don't think they restricted the larger scoots. 50s are often restricted for legal issues.
Finally working on that Tao Tao engine swap 👍
What ??? What Tao Tao are you putting in that you would take out Yamaha's engine ????
@@jamesconner3437 maybe he is swapping and putting a yamaha in the Tao Tao cause no one would do the opposite
@49ccScoot thanks for actually reply to comments unlike other RUclipsrs.
I also have a Derbi runner 50 and its just like the aprilia sr50.
I ran into one day that it is slow at start when getting up to speed and the rpm dropped from 7000 to 6000.
I changed the belt and removed the 6g rollers and put in 5g.
Since the exhaust is the original i checked it for restrictors and used a blow torch on it until i had smoke and flames coming out from the exhaust on idle.
So i burned the catalysator clean i think but there is a air inlet on the exhaust that.draws air from the airbox and in to the exhaust. Also there is two blocked tubes running out from it also. I tried burning everything. Can i cut of the blocked pipes and the.air.inlet to the exhaust, and also cut open the last shiny part that i think is the catalysator and weld it back togheter? Maybe that will give it more performance? Anyway after burning the exhaust and 5g rollers i made it back to steadily 7500 rpm all the time even uphill and on the flats BUT its not as fast uphill as it was before.
This is my fiances bike and you know i always gets complaints about the lack of performance. And of course i need to fix this with the things i have and not spend any money.
The scooter is lacking will to start in a uphill and it feels like it slips or like it won't grip and get going. My own scooter is a a different league and its like im on a motorcycle compared to the derbi. I am to open it up again, check reeds, check airbox, maybe rejet from i think 85 back to 75.main.jet and of course look at cvt and see if the belt is to wide in the front or to low in the back.
Tried be very spesific..
Can you maybe give me some ideas?
I know two stroke so using a wrench is easy for me.
Also it has downhill when releasing the throttle and after few seconds give it wot again hesitate for a loooong time before kicking back..thats why i was thinking reeds. You have any ideas about that also?
I was thinking about fitting a red torque spring i have laying here but im not sure what it does..thats why I have been spending 5 hours now looking on utube about springs. Still not sure.
The clutch engages about at 5000rpm.and it has red clutch springs. Also wanted to mention that. No restritor on variator of course. Thank you!!
Ps just subbed as well. :)
U wanna see freedive visit me
The small shim is needed to correct for belt thickness. Thicker shims are needed to compensate for thicker belts
Awesome!
Thank you! 🫵🏼👊🏼👍🏼
Good job . Il want to do this in my neos
Nice detailed straight to the point . I have a 01 vertical minarelli will my trans be the same as this?
I don't know if that will have restrictions, but it will be a very similar CVT.
Hello, have you tried to remove a baffle in the exhaust header? if there is one of course. Thanks
I only had the engine itself. I bought it just to see the 5BM's special case design for myself. Usually if there is a restricition in a header, it's right at the end and easy to see.
Thanks, very nice and descriptive video.
Love, Edward
Loved the video 👍👍 so detailed. What else can I do to upgrade my 50cc engine?
Lots of things. My first choice is to not have a 50 anymore by installing a big bore kit. Sport 70cc kits are a big improvement in power. You can put an exhaust on a 2T and get nice gains, but I still prefer the BBK first. If more power is desired after that, then get an exhaust for the 70cc setup.
Thanx again for the info..I had big bikes my whole life but was in a bad wreck a few years back..now I'm back on a bike but started with a scooter ..looks Luke a grom and it's fun as hell but I'd like to have enough speed to get to doctor appointments without bothering g trafic..limit is 40mph so I jst need 10 mph.. great for me tho I've missed riding so damn much
30-35MPH is pretty much normal for stock Chinese four strokes. A 47mm big bore kit is my first choice if I need more from a 139QMB.
@@49ccscoot I checked and even going downhill it dosnt ever red like or get past 7 grand.. so yeah probably restricted.. I dnt dare mess with it for now but if I ever see someone like you who knows a thing or two I'd love to do what I can to upgrade in a reliable way... either way I'm so glad to be back on 2 wheels so I shouldn't fly to high ..il end up like icarus..lol
@@49ccscoot can I get a 100 up grade for 49cc scooter kit
Norman
@@normmiles2026 Depends which engine it has. You can for for many, but 100cc will require a stroker crank on pretty much any 49cc.
Why was there not a new gasket placed on the cvt cover? Thank you for such an informative video
Use a new gasket if it's damaged. For me, this is not an engine that I was putting together to run at the time.
@@49ccscoot cool thanks
Excellent tutorial. Thank you.
great video like the details I have a 2021 super 50cc scooter that will not go over 22mph and it doesn't have a restrictor washer on it just check a hr ago . so is it the rollers? cuz I'm at a loss
Could be rollers. I'd check RPM first. See if it is rev limited.
does 2003 Honda Metropolitan have restrictor? I google but no luck.
Thanks for the video, really interesting
Hey do you know were you can get a replacement crankcase gasket
What crankcase gasket? Usually 2Ts don't have a gasket between the case halves. They use a sealant there, like ThreeBond. If you mean the one for the CVT cover, then I would check Yamaha first. If you can't find a Yamaha gasket, a gasket for the 1E40QMB Chinese clone looks like it should fit.
I need a stator for one of these, how come they’re so so hard to find?
I own a 2006 Yamaha Vino 50. Experiencing trouble. From cold start motor runs 45 mph easily. Once the motor warms drops down to about 15 and does not get better miss badly. I am thinking stator or coil. Recommendations?
Sometimes the simple stuff works, so replace the spark plug and make sure the cap is snug. If that doesn't do it, gap the plug to roughly half the usual spec. Something like 0.012"-0.014". If that clears it up, something in the ignition system is weak.
@@49ccscoot thank you. I truly enjoy my little scooter. When I got it it had 501 mile. It now has almost 10,000 . Other than this issue I'm having now the only thing I've ever done has been changed the spark plug the tires and a proper maintenance oil changing every 500 to 750 MI
Very informative video. Is this a similar set up to a 2013 Honda Metropolitan?
TBH I don't have much experience with those. Here's some info that may help :
49ccscoot.proboards.com/post/320297/thread
www3.telus.net/MyScoot/metropolitan.html
What do you run for 2T oil?
I use AMSOil Dominator Racing 2T premixed at 32:1.
Hello I have a yamaha cr90 target from the factory has 788 15,5 28 belt I have the same problem the belt sitting low on back plates, how we can do the belt to sit in upper position in back plates?
Longer belt?
You can check to see what you need. If you take the fixed half off of the front pulley, the belt can then sit right on the drive boss. You may have to rotate the pulleys a few times.
If it then rides near the edge of the rear pulley, then you could get there by spacing the front pulley. If it still doesn't reach, the belt isn't long enough to do it.
Hey, is there a chance of the belt slipping out because of this? Nice video.
The stock belt shouldn't be long enough to come out of the pulleys when assembled.
Wondering if you can help, I've got my 50 cc 2005 Vino running after sitting for 5 years, but will not throttle up to the max, even after carb is extremely clean, new plug, air filter etc. any ideas what it could be? TIA
Even with the carb "extremely clean", if it won't throttle up to max (assuming you mean you can't use full throttle) I would check the main jet to be certain it's clear. Not a bad idea to be sure it wasn't damaged in cleaning, like opened up to a larger orifice size.
Any more details about what it does when you try to use full throttle may be helpful.
Hey do you know the size of the vino/jog cvt cover bearing?
Prob the same size as the clone, but I'm not 100% on that.
49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/6145/minarelli-clone-bearings-seals-torque
I just got a 2006 Yamaha vino 50cc 4t does it also have a restrictor? I can only go 35 tops if that. If anyone could help I’d appreciate it.
How much ft lbs does that torque stick have?
30
I know this is an old video but, can this work on a 2019 metropolitan? It currently hits 37 - 38 mph. What else can help it go fast? My kid weigh like 65lbs and I 205lbs still same top speed.
Check this out :
49ccscoot.proboards.com/post/320297/thread
But I'll ask anyway. If the back wheels not turning then this could very well be the problem? And it makes sense.
If it just revs and the wheel never turns, it's more likely that the belt is broken or something more serious is wrong.
Will this work for gilera runner 50cc 2-stroke 2017 model?
I have no experience with that scooter, but check this out : www.adrenalin-pedstop.co.uk/Tutorials/Tutorial5.aspx
Hey mate is this the same for the 1991 Yamaha jog (cg50)?
I don't know if that model has a restriction, but if it does the engines are very similar so the process would go about the same.
How many mph more will it get you?
It won't get you much stock in some cases. For me, being heavy, it slows down acceleration and doesn't change speed by more than a couple MPH. If you added a pipe and still had the restrictor though, the extra horsepower could make better use of more belt travel.
Excellent ❤
Hi I have a tgb 202 classic would this work on that, great video well explained and clear 👍
I'm not familiar with exactly how or if that scooter is restricted, but this is a fairly common practice. Some even use a drive boss with one end cut to be a built in restrictor. In those cases, you have to replace the drive boss or have it machined down.
Nice tutorial !!!
What’s the name of the gold thing that holds the thing in place
Yamaha calls it a claw washer. I think the most common name I've heard others say is star washer.
Love your videos
Thanks- good video!
I just took my clutches apart yesterday and notice that the small washer was behind the primary clutch, engine side. I just bout this from someone with 4k miles, and I can tell someone already did the mod, but left that shim behind the clutch?? What does that do? I took it out completely, put in a new belt, cleaned the clutches, and didn't notice any boost taking that shim out. Feels like I lost low end torque if anything. As for the big washer, it was not in there.
If it's behind the variator, it's just spacing the variator outward. Make sure removing it didn't cause any problems with tightening and the splines aren't showing past the kick pawl.
@@49ccscoot Yeah removing it ended up damaging the splines and I over tightened. So now I need a new crack shaft... so it's down until next spring. Hope no one makes the same mistake. If only I had just left it in there. I think i also blew a head gasket too, cause I can no longer start it, and only get maybe 95-100psi on compression. Just got it last week too for 300 bucks. Cleaned everything and thought everything felt good, but was still having hard time with keeping it going... But yesterday it shit the bed.
Gained almost 10 mph..about 38 now..with small shim still installed..you think I should remove that one as well..?
If you want the most from it, I'd try it both ways and see what happens. Your current speed is pretty much on par and that's a big gain so my guess is that it's not going to make much difference.
@@49ccscoot 👌👌
@@49ccscoot does the small spacer effect top end speed in any way ?
Very helpful ❤
Is this the same for the 03 zuma?
Very similar.
Does this apply to the zuma 50 t?
Yes.
Awesome video dude I’ve subscribed to your channel but no notifications are showing?? I taped the bell icon not sure if it’s just RUclipss fault?
Notifications seem to be working OK for at least some, because I have subs watching almost as soon as I upload. I have noticed my own subscriptions have been a little different with notifications lately though, so YT may be working on something. Not sure.
Here's a help article about notifications : support.google.com/youtube/answer/7391308
This is maybe the only, and certainly the easiest, "derestriction" that you can make to the later Vino years, with the 4-stroke engines. On the 4 stroke you should get 4mph improvement without a noticeable detriment to acceleration, as long as you weigh under 180 or so. The heavier you are, the more the speed will be at the expense of acceleration. Truly, I think 50cc is a machine for riders under 160 lbs. . Can any owner of 4-stroke Vino 50s confirm my experience ?
Thank You!
Can i put a 70 cc kit in my scooter, its 4 T.
Sure, as long as there's a big bore kit made for it. Depends what it is, but most small scoots have larger bores available.
First, thank you! Second, do you have a video on how to reassemble the kickstarter? Getting the spring back in place is really kicking my trash!
ruclips.net/video/sJ7jxWexjZY/видео.html
do you have a shop open to the public?
I'm getting tired of working on scooters.
I've noticed you're local to me as you seem to be in Md.
Not anymore. I just work on my own stuff.
@@49ccscoot thanks for the reply.
THANK YOU
Will this work for a yamaha jog rr
It is a similar process for many scooters.
Good video!
Grazie
Does a 2 stroke vino ( same engine as in video) have a restricted cdi? If so where can I get a derestriced one?
I don't think so. If you can secure it on the center stand, you can rev it (as briefly as possible) and see how high the RPMs go to be sure. It must be secure though. You don't want it taking off if the tire touches the ground. If it will reach above 10,000RPM, it;s probably not restricted.
Ok thanks
@@49ccscoot .and Nasty Nate....Just for some kids who might not understand....when the scoot is on a stand or jack, it has zero drive load and will rex to max. On the road with a rider, the drive rpm is held down by HP and torque working against load inertia, friction, and wind resistance.
hey my friend do you think my tao tao has that same restriction on it too
Probably not. A lot of the TaoTaos are restricted only by 49cc 4T power. Mine had no restrictions. Just some EPA junk, like a sealed carb.
Wee, new vid :D Is this a short block minarelli ?
It's a short case. A lot like the Jog or the Chinese short case clones.
great job
fascinating...
How old do you need to be in america for riding a scooter. And does the scooter need to be restricted to be legal?
It depends on the state. Laws vary across all 50 states. Most common laws will require you to be 16 years old and the scooters usually aren't supposed to go over somewhere between 25-40MPH. Usually needs to be 50cc or less or it requires a motorcycle license. Horsepower limitations in some areas. Again, it can all vary though.
I denmark the scooters are restricted to 18 miles per hour. Its stupid
@@thomas6963ify That does sound stupid. lol I thought 25MPH was bad in some states. It's 30MPH in my state. I've seen videos of scooter dynos and such, so I know they pay attention to scoots much more overseas. Where I am, they're so few and far between that most police don't pay much attention to me.
What’s up !this happens to be my scooter motor but rear drum lol
I'm trying to restore a scooter(yamaha jog aprio 1996 model) with the same exact engine here in Japan, genuine parts are quite expensive, used or unused.
A member of my forum is working on a Jog in the US and having to source some of the parts from Japan and other parts of the world. Being older, they seem to think parts are just drying up.
How much speed would you gain?
Should be ~5MPH. I've never rode this model, just had the engine. I've read of them going ~30MPH then picking up to 35MPH or better once removed.
The china 50cc scooters have these? To restrict
Some of them do.
5:22 so do I just order a belt size up? Mine runs something like 18 30 69 (obviously in the wrong order but you get what I'm saying) I also put an aftermarket air filter and staggered 5 6 and 7 gram rollers in the front varietal hitting 40 pretty quickly. I know a decent amount about mopeds since I've worked with them and on mine a lot but there's always more to learn. That's the way I like to think anyway. Someone please let me know! Thank you!
You can try to check if your belt is capable of reaching out farther first. If so, try more CVT tuning. Usually you only stagger 2 different weights for balance reasons.
90GTVert further forward towards the variator or towards the transmission? And I think it does but I don't know off the top of my head. Thank you
@@Astriddd333 Riding toward the outside of the vari and inside of the rear pulley is what would be the speed gearing.
How much did the motor cost? I bought a crf50 motor off eBay years ago and it was junk. $400 down the drain
I honestly can't remember. I bought it 2-3 years ago and it has been sitting on a shelf since. I think around $200.
Are u ridung again after the deer incident ?
Yeah. I've been riding for quite a while now.
Awesome
Use an impact driver with a Phillips head on it number 3
Can a scooter cvt lock up the back wheel if something goes wrong like a bearing/ clutch goes or something comes loose or it will it just free wheel normally ?
Most of the time you won't get a lock up with a failure. I've had belts break and kinda jam in there enough to make the tire lockup. A gearbox failure could cause a lockup. The clutch bell is mechanically linked to the gearbox and rear wheel, but the rest could slip. Not likely to have an engine blow and lock the rear wheel. Not saying it can't happen, but it's much less likely than most other transmissions.
@@49ccscoot thanks for reply. Just that there is like a bearing noise developed in the cvt cover. It's done low kms only 8700. You know that slight metallic noise like when a bearing wears. It's at idle. On a 125cc. Should the cvt be noise free is there any basic test I csn do without removing the cvt cover. Not a really loud noise . Thanks again.
@@Matowix CVTs make some noise. You won't figure much out with the cover on.
Woud this mod work on a 2006 yamaha bws 50 2t ?
Open it up, see whats in there. Also loosen the muffler and look for a restrictor in there, wheere the pipe meets the engine, sometimes the restrictor was the gasket and a new gasket from an u restricted model was needed to reseal pipe. Also, remove airbox so you can see the piston in the carb and make sure when you twist throttle the carb slide or piston goes all the way up. I worked at a shop in 06 and a great guy named Jason did all the new scooter setup and predeliveries, as well as getting trade-ins ready for resale. so i got to pick up tons of the rings and flat washer exhaust restrictors cause when he serviced used machines he had a way of pulling restrictors and giving them a polite toss in some random direction. We had so much fun back then, and I wish i realized then how good i had it. You could pull the carb slider and check for a white plastic ring on top that limits its travel, different approach to removi g airbox. 70s, early 80s scooters had a screw right on the throttle at the handlebar grip, youth model bikes and atvs still use those to this day. And to be honest i dont recall the bws50, in 06 specifically, if it had a carb or was injected for example. and i left that dealership in 07 right as the first 08 models were coming out. But my info is correct and on any scooter its easy to check for these common restrictors.
I think that could have a throttle restriction. Look up throttle mod for a Zuma.
I did the throttle mod with good results
@@regarnold1403 thats awesome, now remember the front tire lasts forever if you keep it up off the ground
Ive seen that if you do this it wears down the belt quciker
Hello, i love your videos and win 1 more sub, i´m Johne form Portugal, i have one yamaha neos 50cc engine stock and she dont pass of 70km/h, what can i do without install a 70cc kit to make it run a little more fast? Thanks
If you can do it there, a tuned pipe will increase speed. With some CVT tuning, you should be quicker and faster.
@@49ccscoot what do you mean tuned pipe, is exhaust performance?
@@antuning5656 Correct. A performance exhaust. Big bore kits and exhausts are the biggest gains for our small two-strokes.
Nice vidio..I have a stt dongfang scooter.iwant more speed but not at the expense of take off torque or hill power it barely goes now..lol. if u see this and can help me out with I fo id apriciate it..some say to snip a certain wire for derestrict. But I dno about cutting g wires on a new scooter..hence why I'm here
I don't know any specifics about DongFang scooters. Some people think they're restricted just because they don't realize what a stock 49cc normally does. There are some scooters that have a wire that can be cut to remove a rev limit. If you aren't feeling it hit a limit, it may not have one.
@@49ccscoot thanx for the info..mine does seem like it has more to give . At top speed it's not revving very high .its very low pitch. Definitely not whining like a 50 should .but I could be wrong it goes 35 i got my wife a regular scooter and hers is a little slower so idno ice heard about that wire for rev limit but I dnt wana hurt the bike or make it break from playing with stuff..your awsome thanx for the reply .means the world
@@joshuataft5541 If you have a tach or a timing light with a tach built in, you can try to see if it indeed stops at a low RPM. I just put mine on the center stand and rev it briefly. You just have to be very sure that the scoot is secure and the tire cannot touch the ground or it won't end well.
@@49ccscoot can I do it while riding it my scooter looks like a honda from motorcycle. It jst has a regular kik stand. I realy apriciate you replying...I used to ride street bikes and I got hurt bad so I downsized to this..at top speed it sounds like the rpms are low but I will look at the tac
I have a digital gauge/tac
@@49ccscoot I have looked at the wiring harnesses..it has two different ones..I dnt dare pull a wire .yet.lol but if it would help and not hurt I'm all for it lol... mine is called a stt dongfang.i think it's a gy6 engine but idno for sure
I had weird thing happen. I lost all my sub channels. Could i ask your advise on some things ? Yes i know the forums are full of what i seek. But i think you are the person i can ask. Simple stuff, just a confirmation of what i have come up with - for ideas ?
A bounce off so to speak. Ok with that - pick your brain a bit.
Go ahead.
Alejandro Santiago. 49cc
I traded a junk taotao last night for a Vino engine and frame is the Vino engine the same as the jog engine they sure look the same I'm getting ready to buy a jog guy said it set for 10 years that's why I decided to pick this engine up just in case the jog needed one but if it won't work going to sell it or something
At least some of the Vino 50 2Ts have a 5BM engine that has a better case and reed design, but is otherwise similar to the Jog.
@@49ccscoot cool this was a 04 vino the jog is a old one a artistic spec she's old wish there was a way to start the vino engine before I install it I was going to hook the wires up to my prebug and try to fire it but they are different
@@christopherdarrough2667 It's probably easier to swap engines than to setup a test stand.
@@49ccscoot yup your right there that thing them guys was useing in that video you posted of the exploding Bell was kind of a cool jig the bell exploding sucked never seen that happened before that was nuts going to invest in a high performance Bell after that tid bit