I finished the intake for the 2 stroke!
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- Опубликовано: 13 ноя 2023
- I finished the intake manifold and I am going to be making a carb adaptor next to run an Edlebrock 650. We should see this baby running in the next few weeks!
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hartwickperformance 
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Just turn the car diff and mount it upright!! lol.
Yep, that's what I was thinking too. Perfect for 4wd build.
Honestly, if you dont want to put a lot of time in it. Not knocking your work at all but if you want to concentrate on other projects , Just use the factory carbs, they work and They look cool. I mean individual carbs!
Make some hillborn style stacks for it and call it a day. Concentrate on putting the running one in a car then sort the exhaust and cooling system, and work on custom induction AFTER you get it up n running!
And hey its a boat engine. Maybe do a boat themed rat rod, like back half an actual boat to put on the hot rod chassis, maybe even rear mount the engine like a boat, could use a olds toronado transaxle or something, their engines were longitudinal mounted.
Maybe just use the outdrive that came with it and modify the prop mount for a transmission, that outdrive probably is designed to handle thrust.
The challenge with this is that the engine is now turned 90 degrees and the carbs would also be, meaning that the carbs would not work (floats and fuel bowl). I agree that injection would solve this.
If you need a more budget friendly way to do a simple batch injection setup with a $400 microsquirt, I have my 2V 4.6 running on it and would be willing to help
11:20 i like how the dog always manages to make it to the time-lapse 😂😂😂
Man... Saw this coming, but, I was hoping you weren't going to give up. Some have done it, but it would take more precision with tools and knowledge to pull it off in order to make it somewhat reliable. It was fun watching though.
I like your ingenuity and the channel, great job.
Thank you! I appreciate comments like this. It keeps me motivated
You should connect the ends of the And take manifold because it will help to equalize the vacuum pressure. It will basically look like an SHO style intake.
Please make a short of it running and I’ve been tryna say but I’ve not noticed you react but don’t turbo it I’m not a hater and opposite I love it but you gotta realize they aren’t ported for this and it’s a 2 stroke anyways
I did make a reel on Facebook, Instagram and tiktok, I will make a short of it. And I am no longer going to turbo it. But to keep the cool look and design I plan to gut the turbo and keep it there but there will be no turbine. Just a empty shell lol.
@@hartwickperformanceait sounds good
I think that you *MAY* have issues with a single carb here.
Induction or scavenging in a two stroke of this design is derived or caused by the crankcase and relies on the end-to-end combination of exhaust expansion, crankcase/transfer ports and induction system.
A part of this is the positive pressure wave (pulse) presented back to the carb, which is returned when the crankcase pressure is negative and helps stuff more air/fuel in - think of a spring which is pulled in one direction then creates force back in the other.
By now mixing this wave with the waves of other cylinders via a common plenum, you may lose the benefit of that negative pulse as the cylinders may interfere with one another, altering the overall tune of the engine.
I said may because the end-to-end tune of a two stroke is what ultimately dictates the engine characteristics and you may find you lose a bit of top end power but trade it for a wider power band.
Also with the turbo, whilst there are two stroke turbos out there, they are very difficult to get right.
Good luck with it, I always enjoy watching.
For the tools ur working with im impressed with the progress. Respect. Its taken me many many years to collect the tools i have but having proper tools makes fabricating alot easier and quality improves.(still have alot of tools on my wish list) heres a tip for leveling flanges or anything for that matter. Find a pane of glass and tape sandpaper to it. Then rub part in a figure 8 pattern untill all high spots are gone. Works on small cylinder heads too!
The chicken had me lafin
Don’t ruin the socket just use cold rolled rod steel and drill a hole set screw and the other end tightens down with the drill chuck wont come apart. Your welcome . Lol good job and keep it coming.
Oh yeah, I love 2 strokes! I have a Yamaha YZ250 smoker
In my opinion the only way to run and properly lubricant is a carb for each cylinder.
Time to see the ford Fairlane come back... awesome car...👍👍
Why not use the original carbs with 90 degree short manifolds for each carb with the carbs on top
That is the only way to keep each cylinder properly lubricated in my opinion.
A lot of comments about this. I can build a second manifold and try this out.
Ok scratch the holley you could use a regular old ls ecu and tune it with a hp tuners
I know it will be a bit more expensive but using a CO2/Argon mix as a shielding gas would improve your welds significantly! I suppose there'll be many pinholes in your intake after using flux core for welding. Did you fill it with water to check for holes? Maybe smearing the welds with silicone could help.
Straight CO2 is cheaper & widely available ...
Con is that it's a tad more sensitive to voltage & paint/trash.
Flux core is only slighty more difficult...Must maintain better stick-out control & be dead smooth with low drag to perpendicular angle , sometimes old wire needs more stick-out to heat flux...same as old low hydrogen rod responds well to dead short warm up.
Hobart wire is a common good quality choice at farm/ranch outlets.
First thing I thought when he complained about the splatter, was use anti splatter spray. Or as mentioned don't use flux core and use shielding gas. Or just make an intake out of composite. But I suppose the point is to try and learn from the experience?
What you really should do, is have shielding gas being pumped into the inside of the manifold, as well. "Purge welding" It is the standard way of welding such intake manifolds and ducting. Reduces fouling on the critical inside area immensely.
@@grubb910if you're welding stainless or titanium that's absolutely correct but it's not critical when welding mild steel.
That's a Rooster sir
YES, updraft intakes are always less problematic, does the new engine have fuel injection or carbs?
I would stick with factory injection if not too expensive to maintain.....That little run on juice in last vid said that is one fine Tom cat of a motor. Be a shame to change too much.
It'll probably make more power with the intake on the bottom... Heat rises, so as the engine heats and consumes the air, it will naturally want to flow upwards. Example being, aircraft engines, such and Continentals and Lycomings, historically draw air from beneath the engine.
upside down is good. get it rippin..
Young Sir? Will the carburetor float bowl needle handle the flow of oil/gas mix or does the engine have its own mixing system inside the block already?
I don't think The edelebrock carb will lend itself too well for blow thru turbo..
The intake design is probably going cause distributuon problems, and Being a two stroke you may have to alter jetting and id be more inclined too use a Holley fuor barrel carb if your thinking of having any chance of it running.
Extrude hone media honing will smooth out the runners of the intake manifold.
Walmart Hart performance drill for the win
I’d put a right angle gear box on the running engine and run it vertically, keep it simple
I have thought about this, finding a 90 degree gear box to handle the power and rpm would be tough. But I do have an old mustang axle I could probably cut and modify to use, have the pinion driven and the axle drive a transmission. If the rotation would be the correct way.
That engine will need a lot of radiator to maintain proper temp
Run it on its side and use the original carburetors
So much easier if you flip it with carbs up, Then drop it in the car. still looks mean with 8 ITB's on the top. and it might get finished
Use a Speeduino to do the fuel injection
I don't understand why you don't make short intakes and mount the original carburetors on them
Why not mount it as normal and use a gear box?
Do you still have the coyote Fairlane build?
Yes I do, it sits next to the Godzilla mustang. I plan on taking it on PowerTour 2024
Why not just use those individual carbs and just put tall pipes on them (like jdm)
Man, you really need to get some gas for the welder, it will be much nicer to weld with and much cleaner
Brother, please read this ! I’m not hating on you, you seem like a good guy with good intentions ! But this engine is never gonna run right, if at all, with a single carb on a open plenum manifold. Period. That’s it. 2 strokes don’t work like that. The crankcase is sealed up for each cylinder-they aren’t open to each other like in a four stroke. The crankshaft itself has rubber seals one either side of every main and every cylinder. The intake charge (fuel/air) is inducted (sucked) into the very small volume of air in the crankcase that is built around the individual crank throw. When the piston comes down there’s a pressure on the underside of the piston (think of it just like the reverse of what happens above the piston on a 4 stroke). That pressure of the piston coming down, forces the air/fuel mixture upwards via little ports called transfer ports that lead around thru the cylinder and dump the mixture above the piston where it gets compressed on the upstroke of piston. Then there are two further style of inductions designs to consider-is it a reed valve engine or piston port. It’s NEVER going to even start with that open common plenum intake unless maybe you could spin it up to a couple thousand rpm and then it will just barely run. The volume is just too big and the vacuum signal each cylinder provides will never be able to be strong enough to pull any fuel from the single carb. Look at any multi cylinder two stroke motorcycle, they have one carb for each cylinder. The carb is right there next to the cylinder too not remote mounted far away. It’s for a reason.
Come on man, think this thru! I know you’ve bought two of these engines now and made videos and talked it up and prolly feel like you gotta make it work or you’ll look a failure or whatever, but it’s not gonna work like this. Promise.
Spend an hour or two reading up online on how exactly two strokes work and you’ll realize it. Not just that it happens in two strokes versus four. A little more in depth. Use keywords in your search like “analysis of two stroke engine induction peculiarities” stuff to that effect. Otherwise you’ll just get basic suck bang blow diagrams and what not…there’s a reason why there’s only been one or two of these converted to a car like the Rudizon (spelling) dude in Sweden or wherever. Everyone telling you to leave the carbs the way they are is right and they know the same thing I do they just didn’t take the time to type it out and explain it.
Concentrate on how your gonna couple it to a transmission and deal with the lack of thrust bearings before you re-design an entirely new induction system. Two strokes are very simple mechanically but their induction and more so the design and tuning of said induction is extremely complex and technical.
RIP chicken!
Put a bag over the new one and don’t touch it !
Bro just use a holley system
I understand doing different/creative projects. But this one is so massively complicated, and will definitely be a letdown for all the time and work you are putting in. A 4-liter 2 stroke used almost twice the airflow of a 4-liter 4 stroke. Add in the horrific designed intake (just out of simplicity) and the massive amount of turbulence from the sharp edges and right angles, and you have a terribly reduced performance. Not to mention the fact the back cylinders will not get much mixture. The oil in the fuel will destroy/clog the wideband in short order, and even so the sniper will not be able to compensate for the intake design or flow capacity needed.
You have the right idea, to go back to your other projects which you want to do anyway. It's not a loss really, just a massive project that just takes a lot more engineering knowledge that is seems you possess. Not being mean here, my business was building performance 2 strokes for many decades, and even I wouldn't attempt this...
When Nikola Tesla invented the electric motor he drew it in the sand with a stick. Then in his mind he built and disassembled it thousands of times.
He thought of every detail and possible outcome. So, when he actually did it for real, it worked the very first time.
You seem to take a polar opposite approach to your designing and fabrication. I am honestly enjoying your videos.
There part educational (what not to do) and instructional ( there is a proper tool for every job!) Then, there's what u use. I am almost positive this engine wont ever scream down the highway in this decade.
But i will enjoy watching, cringing and critiquing your process the whole time.
Man you are tireless. I am no hater but those motors were not reliable at all when they were new. Some will argue but they know the truth. They were plagued with major issues when used as intended. You are going to introduce high water temps that it will not survive. Sorry for the honest facts
Just my opinion, but I would much prefer you work on that classic mustang versus wasting time on a 2 stroke hunk of shit boat motor that will never run properly.
Those types of channels are a dime a dozen on RUclips..his channel is about experimenting and trying to make something out of the ORDINARY come to life..I agree with what he is doing with the boat engine..but you're entitled to your opinion..