Tormach 1100MX - First Real Production Run - Small Part, Tormach Worked Awesome!
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- First time I really used my Tormach 1100MX to make multiples of the same part. Up to this point I have been using it to make prototype single parts. The production run came out great. 60 pieces, 120 tool changes, 180 holes with counterbores and 30 engravings. Tormach did not even break a sweat.
Working with Grade 5 Titanium on this Tormach 1100MX is no problem. GARR carbide windmills held up well and I love my Glacern Machine Tools 4" CNC vise.
Thanks for watching!
As an experienced machinist, I am both impressed, and have a few tips for you.
1. Minimize your retract from motions. No need to go way up between holes, other than to clear the washers. So if they're .050" you only need slightly higher, maybe another .025" to be clear.
2. Add more holdings to that fixture plate! Maximize your total run time in the machine. The more the machine can run the same tool without messing around waiting for the tool change, the better.
3. Create two identical fixture plates, so you can be loading one plate while your other plate is running the parts. From what it looks like, you could fit somewhere between 8 and 10 parts per plate.
4. Put a part stop on the end of the vise so when you slap each plate into the machine, it locates exactly the same between runs.
5. For the love of God, get yourself a power tool to manipulate those screws. Time is money!
Now, with these tips, I'd split the program into two separate operations. The first holes drilled and counterbored on one program, on one plate. And when you switch the holdings so you can do your engraving, that can be your second program, on your second plate.
If it were me, I'd have operation 1 on the first plate, and operation 2 on the second plate, so that way you're not switching up the screw holdings in the middle of the cycle. And each operation would be separate programs.
Good luck in the future!
Into TheCNC - I appreciate the comment and the tips. As a manual guy the work holding and thinking through these operations is still my main gap. This was a test run of the program that I decided to turn into a production run and to your points clearly not efficient. I like the two plate process you outline. I was going to put more slots in the plate but had not thought of two separate ops. Makes a lot of sense. Thanks!
@@BladesIIB no problem dude! I actually am in the process of putting together a masterclass to teach this very thing: efficiency in the program, and the processes between pushing the go-button!
I have a couple videos of stuff where I have a GoPro in the machine to do split screen comparison of making efficient changes.
If you have any questions on your future processes, tag me or send me a message and I’ll help you out if I can!
@@heroicprecision Those sound like good videos thanks. Just subscribed, will check them out.
Hi, do you recommend this Machine for a small producer ? Maybe 5 bigger parts per day. Accuricy will be 0.008. But i have a budget lower than 35.000$. So i will go with Tormach or a chinese Machine like DRC machinery. Which one do you recommend ?
Good clean fun. This is a project that could benefit from making an identical fixture and putting a stop on the vise so you can just swap out fixtures, and change the parts / blanks on the shuttle fixture while the machine is running.
Good job. Like a famous man once said, "don't you love it when a plan comes together" ......
Take care my friend
Kieth Lane - Thanks for the comment and fixture ideas. Always so many ways to get it done.
Thanks for posting some real videos making non-imaginary parts. Most of the videos on YT about these machines are paid influencers or amateurs posting unboxing videos. I am thinking about trading up from my 1100 S3 to the MX and am trying to get a better idea of the difference. On the whole I'm happy with the 1100 but the higher speed spindle and use of a real taper are very appealing to me.
@sansbury95 - Thanks for the feedback. My videos are truly what I am doing in the shop that day. I try to provide a little more detail so people can learn vs the zapoof magic and a part appears. Maybe why my channel is small😂😂. Anyway I love the MX. picked it for just your reasons wanted the speed and a taper. I never ran the other style but know some others who started with the other tool holder and they prefer the taper after upgrading. I do mostly smaller parts but all material and this Tormach has served me well.
Nice work! My 1100MX shipped yesterday! getting ready to set it up this weekend probably! So stoked to compare it to my 770m!
Clockwerk Industries - Thanks, and Congrats on the new machine. That is awesome that you have already run a 770. This was my first CNC venture so steep learning curve. Really enjoying it though.
Love your videos. Getting a 1100MX also, your 1100mx unboxing, building, etc was very helpful. I have a request related to this video. A video explaining the cam and machine setup behind the machining multiple parts. Thanks!
Jerry Chapman - congrats on your new machine. You are going to love it. If you check out my knife build video part 6 it has the CAD and CAM of this part and the jig. Ideally for multiple parts, I should have made a jig with more spots. I could either put all those in fusion. Or stick with the two I have and create additional work offsets to cut 2 more the same. Then another work offset for 2 more etc. I have not actually played with a set up using more than one work offset yet? Will have to try that. I currently do use another work offset for tool height setting. I will see it I can get a video out with multiple work offsets. Thanks for the idea.
That is one slow tool-changer!
Robert Alva - Appreciate the comment. This is the only CNC mill I have ever run, so nothing to compare it to. Good to know, thanks.
Great job Bud. Soon enough you’re going to need a Pierson Pro Pallet system.
Best Services - yes, the work holding is definitely a work in progress. I probably need to read more and learn from others. So far just going with what makes sense to me but clearly not efficient yet. As a manual guy, I am used to making just a few parts or simple jigs for those bigger jobs. CNC high quantity is a while like new animal. I will take a look at what Pierson has. Thanks!
Try the 0.02 ball engraver from lakeshore carbide. The tip is much stronger than a 45 degree point. But great work. Plenty of space to expand the fixture.
anon - Thanks for the tool recommendation. And yes could have put more on the jig. Started out as a prototype to see if my engraving would work. Then once set up figured I would just go ahead and knock some out.
I'd CB with a 4FL if thats anything harder then Alumn. It'd help with that burr the CB leaves, as the 2FL is pushing the metal instead of cutting.
Great job thou! Lets see a pallet with 20 of those now :)
Jay Von Ro - Thanks for the tip. It is grade 5 Ti so definitely harder than aluminum. And yes, I need to up the game on my work holding. Started as a test of the engraving. Then figured I would knock some out while it was set up.
Your video is good, I've just been ruined by Brother Speedios.😅 I've been considering whether or not a Tormach was a more sensible business expansion. And, while it probably is a better ROI for my in-house needs... I think I can live with saving for longer and spending more. It's not like I blow money on pointless cars and luxury.
@benthurber5363 - Thanks for the comment. I have never used a Brother Speedios machine but they look nice and definitely seem in a different class than the Tormach. I have been happy with the Tormach and when it sits for weeks at a time not running I don't feel to guilty. Everyone needs to find the machine that meets their needs and budget for sure. As for the other part of your comment...now I am trying to remember what vehicles may have been in the background in my video and if that was directed at me … hmmm...😂😂
I see I rather large difference in knowledge from the first video till now.
Wags - Thanks has been a fun learning journey into CNC.
Use a regular ball endmill for the engraving, 1/16 or 5/64 should work nice. Stub up your tools and get 4 flute coated endmills for titanium or steel. And get a carbide circuit board drill instead of drilling with an endmill.
austin allen - Thanks for the tips. Will definitely make that change for engraving. Already found the carbide drills and will not try drilling titanium with end mills anymore. Had an issue on another part where a 7/64 end mill was flexing so much and pulling off center it made over 1/8 holes. Lesson learned. What you can get away with in aluminum does not work in titanium. Will also stub up my tools where I can and since I won’t be drilling, I will move to 4 flute much more.
austin allen - I tried changing the tool to a ball end mill in Fusion and the engraving tool path won’t accept it. What tool path do you recommend instead of engraving? I tried Trace but that wants to do the full outline rather than one pass down the middle.
@@BladesIIB Use TRACE but choose one of the SHX fonts within the Fusion 360 text options, as it has a single line that TRACE follows.
@@stevedunthorne7376 Thank you, I will try that.
Now that you have some run time on the 1100MX, any thing you wished you would of done differently during the build? Any coolant leaks?, etc. I plan to use your videos to assist me during my build. Thanks! GO HELLCAT!
Jerry Chapman - Thanks for the question. The only thing I would do different is leave the left side another inch or two from the wall. But I don’t have any coolant leaks and even that window is holding well. Someone else recommended I check the oil flow up to the Z oiler block. I did and it was a little slow. Tormach recommended a check valve at the automatic oiler to prevent back flow. Other than that. Have had no issues.
Nice Machine hope the guy orders 500 more . JM
JM - Thanks, I am the guy and yes if I need 500 more that will be a good thing.
You jug is large enough, can you run 4 parts at one? two first op, two second op/engraving?
MotoMotion Canada - Yes for sure the jig is large enough. Just need to cut more slots and tap more holes. The test went well so I just went ahead and ran a batch off. But next time I will set up a better jig to reduce tool changes and speed up the process.
Does that machine have any kind of chip conveyer? Auger ?
Robert h - Thanks for the question. No this machine does not have an auger or any way to add one that I know of. Just a pull out chip tray that rolls out from the bottom to empty. Makes it pretty easy to clean.
How long does the coolant last until you need to replace?
CarGuy - The details on the product just say extended life and I can’t find a timeframe anywhere. I have not drained and changed mine and it has been in service for 15 months of what I would call light use. I continue to add water as needed to maintain the concentration from evaporation. I also too up as needed due to coolant loss from what comes out with parts gets wiped away comes out with tram oil skimmer etc. no odor and still looks pretty clean. I would say change based on color and contamination level. Hope that helps, thanks for the question.
with such a small part, why not run 30 or so at a time? 2 at a time is not very efficient
dannirr - Fair point. Started out as a prototype since I had never tried engraving before. Since I had the jig set up I went ahead and knocked these 30 out. I should make a larger jig for next time and hold more. Would save a lot on tool changes for sure. Appreciate the comment and the feedback.