I have a 04 6.0, just aftermarket cooling system and Egr delete, just towed a car from california to florida and it has 206k miles on it still running strong
7.3 came out much earlier than 99 plus I got a 6.0 and it went down on me at 2 months my 7.3 is a 2000 with a manual transmission and it looks like yours I'll replace the engine before I get another 6.0
Here's how I buy diesel pick ups. After you find the truck you want, tell the seller you want to take it and have it checked by a pro. Here's the key. Take it to a real deal diesel shop. They will probably have to keep it overnight. Tell the seller you will buy the truck and pay for the diagnostic if he fixes what's wrong with it. If he won't pay for the fix, he pays for the diagnostic. If he won't stand behind his truck and have the codes pulled, run, don't walk, run away. It will save you thousands. I learned the hard way. Don't get screwed over. Take my advice on this.
I agree with this comment entirely. Also, make sure when you take it for a test drive -- when you schedule said test drive, you would want to insist the truck remains cold and isn’t started that day! This way you can find any potential cold start issues, or issues that disappear audibly or visually as the truck warms up. Lastly, check out videos by the late Diesel Tech Ron (rest in peace sir) and PowerStroke Tech Talk with AROD - they have some great content related to 6.0’s. (The latter has mostly moved on to 6.7 stuff like what I drive, but he does have some in the archives ) glad you did not buy a 6.4. Also : oil that frame up! Stop that rust. Truck otherwise looks pretty good!
I currently own a 2005 and previously owned a 2004 E-350 6.0. Both were bulletproofed, the '05 was an overkill bulletproof. I've owned every powerstroke aside from the 6.4, the 6.0 is by far the most fun to drive and the only powerstroke that I won't sell.
The 6.0 must be a hit or miss. I know guys that have lost head-gaskets and everything blew up at just over 100,000 miles. These are old Farmers that got them new and babied them. I know guys that got new 6.0s and put 250,000 miles on them with no problems and towed heavy loads of cattle and never even let them warm up... I will get the 6.0 to get the keypad on the driver's door. I have not seen any 7.3's with the keypad.... only 6.0, 6.4, and 6.7. Also the 6.0 trucks can be had for $8,500-$13,000 in great condition with like 180,000 miles and the 7.3 trucks in 4x4 crew-cab are $15,000+ for a ruff one, $40,000+ for a low mile one.
No kidding, I'm looking foe a 6.0 to put a camper in. But the horror stories make me gun shy. Almost would be worth it to buy one for cheap and drop 6-7k in it to bullet proof it..
I bought a bullet-proofed (except for studding) 2005 6.0 4X4 Super Duty 250 with ALL the essentials for $13 thou, two months ago private party--- 190k miles, decent body and interior. Absolutely no issues, powerful 18 mpg hwy, drives and tows like a dream, the cylinders all compressed out around 99% of factory spec! HIGHLY recommend these trucks when maintained by the book.
I bought one 14 k near mint interior and exterior 90k new injectors and hpop chipped and lifted looks awesome runs excellent I’m going to have ford dealer egr delete and studded and stage 2 injectors
Great commentary and very well done. :) I have a 2006 6.0 with 133,000 miles on the clock that just shit the bed on me. I bought it new and changed the oil every 3,000 miles using Rotella 15W/40. Started out as white smoke from the exhaust and by the time I got home it was a rolling thick blackish grey mass of smoke. Theoretically it was a stuck open injector and blown head gasket. It is at my local diesel repair shop presently waiting for it’s new engine to be built. The new engine will be “bullet proof”, so they tell me. 5 years diminishing warranty and 100,000 miles to the tune of just shy of 20k. There is also a considerable amount of labor cost in that 20k so maybe if one is so inclined you could do the work yourself and save some money. As for me I am much too ignorant/inexperienced and stupid to try to do the swap myself, just being realistic guys. :( I Thank God I am able to pull this off and my sympathy goes out to those that can’t. Soooo, I’m not very pleased with Ford at the moment as could be expected. Personally I don’t think there is a decent diesel pickup made worth the money they are asking. We know Dodge is crap and a poorly designed cheap as possible pile to get it out the door and get that sucker cash flowing in. I am starting to think the same about Ford right about now. My thought for you would be to get the injectors changed out with new OEM injectors and change out the glow plugs as soon as possible and every 100,000 miles there after just to be on the safer side. Do what you need to do about the studs, my new engine will be ARP studded, new oil cooler Inconel valves, stage 1 cam and a bunch of stuff like that there. I hope it lasts as long as I do, made it to 71 now. Yeah. :) Buying a used truck, I would just be buying what I already have just waiting to happen so I am fixing what I have. While it was running I liked it very much and never had any issues with it until last week. Please keep us updated. :)
So, it never had issues from 2006 until now? I bought mine new in 09/05 and just before the 100k warranty expired, it was blowing white smoke, (i.e. head gasket)I took it to stealership, they put it on compter did a firmware "fix" and it was ok afterwards, but I did noticed the black carbon in the degas bottle, didn't think anything of it at the time.. then, it failed just afgter warranty and they said it was the turbo nd will be $1,400 to replace, I towed it home, did the international VGT cleaning procedure & its been fine every since,,,, friggin never buying a ford again, there ws some powerstroke money availbile to public for this exact thing, but stealership wouldn't forward request to FORD...
My buddy works for ford and he says the 6.7s and already in for recalls and all kinds of maintenance issues. Just get a 6.0 bullet proof it and go for 500k miles my 06 has 375k still works fine and pulls great.
Thanks for encouragement buddy. Just bought used 2006 6.0. Love the truck but I am already having issues. Not sure yet. May have to sink another 7k just to get it bulletproof.
got a 2005 6.0 250k, studded, egr gone, 4 inch back exhaust, cat coolant, coolant filtration and a tune.....i get a delta of about 3 degrees back roads and about 6 on highway. oil change rotella t6 and archoil every 5k.....they will look after you if you look after them.,
I have the 2003 Ford F-250 6.0L and we haul a 16ft steel livestock trailer (bumper pull) with a couple cattle and you can barley feel it the engine is stock as far as I know
Nice truck ,I have same one but f250 . All stock except egr delete, it was installed when I bought it. It has 127,000 on it. It had a bit of a long start and no start hot once, upgraded stand pipe and dummy plugs. Now it starts and runs great. Yeah for full size truck it moves well. Nice truck.
Thanks! Mine actually had a no-start hot issue as well a few months into ownership. I replaced the stand pipe and dummy plugs on both sides as well as the STC fitting on the HPOP and now it starts beautifully everytime.
The 6 litres are good trucks. I have a 2005. But expect to put out money to get the sore spots right. Oil pump support system needs to be replaced, EGR valve, oil cooler and head studs. After this you are good to go for many, many km's.
Do you still own the 6.0 and what are your thoughts about it still. I’m currently looking for a F250 or 350 because I bought a travel trailer that’s a little bigger than I’d like for my 19 Ranger. And I really don’t want to trade in my Ranger on a F150 in the 16-18 range
I'm currently in the market for a 7.3 with the manual, but really thinking about the 6.0 auto. according to powerstrokehelp, they say that 04 is really the year you want to stay away from. They made a bunch of improvements over the years. The 6.0s get a very bad reputation, but when done right and taken care of, they are good trucks (from what I hear). Plus the reputation is so bad that they seem to be as cheap or cheaper than the 7.3s in my area.
6.7 L has had the longest run of a Ford pickup truck Turbodiesel engine, but they are expensive and complicated to repair and work on. The price range is SO expensive new.
Thanks for sharing, thinking about an '06 Lariat that's supposedely been "bulletproofed' I'll be asking for proof of that before purchase. Price of vehicles these days are insane and they're only asking 15k for the one I'm looking at with around 240k miles.
Here’s the reality with these, after owning one myself. You can buy one for under 20 k. Ya probably should save the $ for the head gaskets, don’t fuckin tune it. just leave it alone? Get rid of egr, and drive it for about 20k less than a gm or dodge in the same year with more miles. I’ve replaced the injectors, did a exhaust and the Ficm and it’s done everything I needed it too, all While being paid for. Just maintain it, change the oil and filters on time. I’ve put a lot of miles on mine, Difference of opinion here but I can buy 2 of these for the price of a newer gm or dodge.
With the EGR delete, your head gaskets should be fine. My old 6.0 ate two under warranty (head bolts reinstalled), as soon as the warranty expired, I deleted the EGR , installed a new oil cooler, and never had anymore issues. I now have a 1st gen 2014 6.7 with 118k miles, and a wrench has never touched the motor. It still has the dpf. With 6.0s getting cheaper, I've thought about buying one that's been bulletproofed to have as a second truck.
i have had a 7.3, 6.0, and a 6.4! loved the 7.3 with 340k miles but it was ext cab wouldnt fit the car seats for the kids, then i got the 6.4 it had 297k miles and it was pretty much a really fast money pit! ended up with a 2003 6.0 with 309k miles and couldn't be more happy with it!
We are looking at a 2006 6.0 with 2,500 miles on a factory warranty rebuilt engine (maybe new?) he says it’s EGR deleted and bullet proofed. I can tell if it’s a new engine, but your video on how to tell if it’s bullet proofed is all messed up on the internet, won’t play but at the end. And I don’t see it on the utube app under your listings. What do you think of the factory warranty rebuild? You are like SO exactly in our category in so many ways! I just found (and subscribed and liked the video) your channel and it is good stuff for sure. I worked at a machine shop in San Diego that did all the work for the city bus system. Detroit Diesel and Mann diesels. In the early 1990s. Seems like a Ford engine replacement is a better bet than a 100k-200k vehicle that has so many possible problems that can’t be diagnosed properly without a full (and no way acceptable to private sellers) vehicle evaluation.
I haven't done anything significant on my truck, just a coolant bypass filter, 6.4 trans pan upgrade, fuel pressure gauge, and a few other small things. I haven't had any head gasket issues so I'm not going to tackle the studdding job just yet. If I had access to a lift for a few days then I'd for sure do it, but I don't.
The larger vehicles that had the 6.0 also had an egr system. The difference between the power stroke 6.0 and the international vt365(6.0 not in a Ford), it’s the turbo and the ficm. It’s a slightly larger turbo on the vt365 and the ficm is just not matched to a ford vin
I have a 05 f350 super crew lariat dually 8 ft bed for sale 233,000 miles $9,500 runs great if anyone in the Philadelphia area and want to check it out feel free to ask
I just picked up the same truck 2006 around 200,000 miles it’s been deleted new aluminum radiator. What are you think should I do the studs? truck runs great!
In my opinion, if the truck is running well, leave the headbolts and head gaskets alone. I've shown in another video that I'm still on stock headbolts and head gaskets and I plan to run it like that for as long as I can. With an EGR delete and good coolant with a good radiator, you should be good to go for regular use. On the other hand though, if you plan on running a hot tune or plan on towing a 3 or 4 car trailer loaded all the time, perhaps upgrading to studs with fresh head gaskets and O-ringed heads would be worth it.
The delete is the most important. If the head is holding up okay now then don’t worry about it. Dummy plugs and the STC connector is a huge plus to have done to eliminate those oil problems
If you have a nice 6.4 and the motor goes bad on you (which it will) just have a Cummins conversion done professionally, about 10k-12k and you get to keep your nice looking truck
Stay away from performance tunes. I run a stock 6.0 minus a coolant and oil bypass upgrade, blue spring upgrade and 5 inch cat back mbrp exhaust. I also have a scangauge2 from bulletproof diesel to keep an eye on my delta temps.
love my 6.0 but i loved it more when i got it lol got it stock with only arp studs and head gasket... i did egr delete, sct tune and turbo back 5"... everything was great! for a year lol then it blew an oil cooler screen and put metal shavings in 8/8 injectors, took out my hpop and my ipr... 8000 dollars in repairs wasnt fun... preventative maintenance is key* do your oil cooler ever 100K just to have piece of mind... any motor can have problems and all parts evenutally break down and fail... 6.0 is just another engine... no engine lasts forever lol cheers
I’m looking at a 2006 f250 6.0 a guy wanted to trade me for my Jeep TJ. thinking I am going to go for it. Studded, deleted, oil cooler all the good stuff. 196k
Not bad, if it's studded and the head gaskets look good, I say go for it. Just be careful, sometimes when guys get their trucks studded, it blows the HG's again shortly down the line. Don't really know why, maybe it's shoddy work, maybe it's improperly resurfaced heads or block, but just look out for that.
@@CtrlAltDefeatTV I've read the studs are being over torqued causing a crack or head gasket failure. Since the old ones stretched at the proper torque the new studs do not. New specs are backing off the torque some.
It will make you fail your visual inspection if the mechanics there know what they're looking for. If you have emissions testing where you are, your best bet is to weld your EGR cooler so that no exhaust gas can pass through it, but it is still present and looks factory from the outside.
I thought it was a good video I've been thinking about buying one myself I was looking at 2005 King Ranch with 172000 miles on it was in really good shape need some body repairs the coolant looks really clean engine is clean no leagues very nice truck but I am very scared if something goes wrong with these things , they're so expensive to fix but that includes the 7.3, I have been looking for a nice 7.3 for a long time but like you said they're all getting old and tired with very high miles on them too.
Once studded and deleted, the 6.0 is a great engine. I have an 05 and it is a great truck and engine combo. Makes amazing power and is as reliable as anything out there. The 7.3 is reliable, but it will not make power on par with the 6.0 and other diesels. With the government cracking down on the tuners with the emissions changes on the 08 up trucks, watch the 07 and earlier trucks keep climbing in value.
absolutely. Not to mention, the 5R110 transmission is way better than the 4R100 that comes on the 7.3 The 6.0 was the last good ford diesel before DPF and DEF. Only light emissions equipment with the EGR.
@@granitejeep5967 The front shocks and springs are different, along with a thicker frame. The 1999-2004 just have a little shock. I said that post but my buddy's 6.0 just blew up today lol. Kinda changed my mind because his was bulletproofed.
@@sydliz1126 oh yeah I know about the suspension..the 6.0 that blew up..was it fully bulletproof? Egr delete or cooler, studs coolant filter etc? More importantly was he running a hot tune?
@@granitejeep5967 He tows a trailer for mowers but I don't know about the rest. I know he says it's bulletproof and I do know he spent 5k on something. He's going to borrow my Ecoboost for a while.
I got a 2006 f350 6.0 .....all problems are cause by the oil cooler clogging/ restriction......head gaskets. Egr ...over heating .you name it..replacing it is more than I bought the truck for..no mechanic will tell you the REAL Deal...because there is no money in it for them...SOLUTION back flush the oil cooler once a year...buy the tool on amazon... easy DYI maintenance
I'd recommend an adrenaline series hpop. I lost 2 OEM hoops and finally swapped for the adrenaline and it's a very well built product. I have egr delete, straight pipe, sct tune, blue spring upgrade, stand pipes and dummy plugs, mechanical fan conversion, 6" lift on air ride with 35s. Runs like a top. Almost 200k on it now. I've put 46k on it this year.
I just thought it was good on how you was talkin about your 600 and I was watching the entire video one thing that I just wanted to let you know on is if you get rid of that 3 inch exhaust and upgraded to a for it will also help out with your EGR Delete it will let it breathe a lot better so the bigger the exhaust the better off you are mine has a 4-inch and mine does good another thing that I was watching as you was talkin about the head bolts that is something I would check into you near future but as a head up is up to you from one to another if your truck ever just drive down the road and shuts off for no reason at all it will probably be your thickum mine has right at $300,000 and it has been one of the best trucks I've ever owned I've never had a head gasket problem or a transmission problem out of mine I pulled a trailer day-to-day with mine mine is a 06 also
A used car lot in Mount Clemens Michigan, it was the today special lol. It was well taken care of and when I took it to have the oil changed the tech showed me the dip stick and said this is what it looks like when we get done. I was real lucky to find this one.
When you do the head gaskets you HAVE to do the lifters too. That’s the one final weak link in the 6.0s. You can fix every other single weak point and none of it will matter when you drop a roller bearing out of one of those lifters and it runs through your entire oil system. Motors done and you’re starting from the bottom up all over again
True, unfortunately to do the rear lifters you need to pull the engine off to pull the rear cover off, to pull the HPOP and the high pressure oil system to get the tubes out of the way. At least on the 05-07 style 6.0's
Is it in good running shape? I haven't owned too many modern diesel trucks but the 6.0 feels pretty quick and peppy to me. Coming from a 1st gen cummins it's like a damn rocket ship
I picked up a 05 f250 superduty 6.0 low miles no rust love it no major issues
I have a 04 6.0, just aftermarket cooling system and Egr delete, just towed a car from california to florida and it has 206k miles on it still running strong
My truck was not kept up looking for a replacement are a good one using my truck for parts have 9000.00 into it
How long did you keep it birdies you sold it off
7.3 came out much earlier than 99 plus I got a 6.0 and it went down on me at 2 months my 7.3 is a 2000 with a manual transmission and it looks like yours
I'll replace the engine before I get another 6.0
Apparently the 2005-2006 Chevrolet Duramax with Alison transmission is a solid truck from WhT an expert was saying.
A great video. Didnt try to get too technical but still covered the basics
Thanks for sharing your experience. It was interesting to listen and helpful. I watched almost to the end. Cheers. Drive save!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it
Here's how I buy diesel pick ups. After you find the truck you want, tell the seller you want to take it and have it checked by a pro. Here's the key. Take it to a real deal diesel shop. They will probably have to keep it overnight. Tell the seller you will buy the truck and pay for the diagnostic if he fixes what's wrong with it. If he won't pay for the fix, he pays for the diagnostic. If he won't stand behind his truck and have the codes pulled, run, don't walk, run away. It will save you thousands. I learned the hard way. Don't get screwed over. Take my advice on this.
Thanks
This is generally a good tip
I agree with this comment entirely. Also, make sure when you take it for a test drive -- when you schedule said test drive, you would want to insist the truck remains cold and isn’t started that day! This way you can find any potential cold start issues, or issues that disappear audibly or visually as the truck warms up. Lastly, check out videos by the late Diesel Tech Ron (rest in peace sir) and PowerStroke Tech Talk with AROD - they have some great content related to 6.0’s. (The latter has mostly moved on to 6.7 stuff like what I drive, but he does have some in the archives ) glad you did not buy a 6.4.
Also : oil that frame up! Stop that rust. Truck otherwise looks pretty good!
Id be damned if I was paying for the diagnostic as the seller.
You are so full of crap. Nobody is going to pay for your field trip to the diagnostic garage. Nice try, but I'm not buying your macho buying crap.
I has a beautiful psd 7.3 but am now in the market for a 6.0 for the power and updated front end.
The people can say what they want about the 6.0 but when you bulletproof it it is like you you have the reliability of the 7.3
@@coltonrothenberg5263 but not the power of a 6.0
Ford should have recalled all the 6.0s ever built. They remind me of the Olds 350 diesel. Boat anchor.
I currently own a 2005 and previously owned a 2004 E-350 6.0. Both were bulletproofed, the '05 was an overkill bulletproof. I've owned every powerstroke aside from the 6.4, the 6.0 is by far the most fun to drive and the only powerstroke that I won't sell.
The 6.0 must be a hit or miss. I know guys that have lost head-gaskets and everything blew up at just over 100,000 miles. These are old Farmers that got them new and babied them. I know guys that got new 6.0s and put 250,000 miles on them with no problems and towed heavy loads of cattle and never even let them warm up... I will get the 6.0 to get the keypad on the driver's door. I have not seen any 7.3's with the keypad.... only 6.0, 6.4, and 6.7. Also the 6.0 trucks can be had for $8,500-$13,000 in great condition with like 180,000 miles and the 7.3 trucks in 4x4 crew-cab are $15,000+ for a ruff one, $40,000+ for a low mile one.
No kidding, I'm looking foe a 6.0 to put a camper in. But the horror stories make me gun shy. Almost would be worth it to buy one for cheap and drop 6-7k in it to bullet proof it..
Love the sound, love the power. Thinking of throwing the dice on a 6.0.
Same here
Well?did you buy. How did it work out for you?
Looking at a 05 duramax and a 05 powerstroke and can't decide 😂
I bought a bullet-proofed (except for studding) 2005 6.0 4X4 Super Duty 250 with ALL the essentials for $13 thou, two months ago private party--- 190k miles, decent body and interior. Absolutely no issues, powerful 18 mpg hwy, drives and tows like a dream, the cylinders all compressed out around 99% of factory spec! HIGHLY recommend these trucks when maintained by the book.
Same here. Glad to hear it's working out for you. I'm enjoying the heck out of mine.
If it ain’t studded, it ain’t bulletproofed. That’s like saying you got a double cheeseburger but it only has 1 little patty lol
I bought one 14 k near mint interior and exterior 90k new injectors and hpop chipped and lifted looks awesome runs excellent I’m going to have ford dealer egr delete and studded and stage 2 injectors
280k strong
Best things about them are you can buy them cash and doing so its amazing how you’re able to afford to repair and update them
Great commentary and very well done. :)
I have a 2006 6.0 with 133,000 miles on the clock that just shit the bed on me. I bought it new and changed the oil every 3,000 miles using Rotella 15W/40.
Started out as white smoke from the exhaust and by the time I got home it was a rolling thick blackish grey mass of smoke. Theoretically it was a stuck open injector
and blown head gasket. It is at my local diesel repair shop presently waiting for it’s new engine to be built. The new engine will be “bullet proof”, so they tell me.
5 years diminishing warranty and 100,000 miles to the tune of just shy of 20k. There is also a considerable amount of labor cost in that 20k so maybe if one is so inclined
you could do the work yourself and save some money. As for me I am much too ignorant/inexperienced and stupid to try to do the swap myself, just being realistic guys. :(
I Thank God I am able to pull this off and my sympathy goes out to those that can’t.
Soooo, I’m not very pleased with Ford at the moment as could be expected. Personally I don’t think there is a decent diesel pickup made worth the money they are asking.
We know Dodge is crap and a poorly designed cheap as possible pile to get it out the door and get that sucker cash flowing in.
I am starting to think the same about Ford right about now.
My thought for you would be to get the injectors changed out with new OEM injectors and change out the glow plugs as soon as possible and every
100,000 miles there after just to be on the safer side. Do what you need to do about the studs, my new engine will be ARP studded, new oil cooler
Inconel valves, stage 1 cam and a bunch of stuff like that there. I hope it lasts as long as I do, made it to 71 now. Yeah. :)
Buying a used truck, I would just be buying what I already have just waiting to happen so I am fixing what I have. While it was running I liked it very much
and never had any issues with it until last week.
Please keep us updated. :)
So, it never had issues from 2006 until now? I bought mine new in 09/05 and just before the 100k warranty expired, it was blowing white smoke, (i.e. head gasket)I took it to stealership, they put it on compter did a firmware "fix" and it was ok afterwards, but I did noticed the black carbon in the degas bottle, didn't think anything of it at the time.. then, it failed just afgter warranty and they said it was the turbo nd will be $1,400 to replace, I towed it home, did the international VGT cleaning procedure & its been fine every since,,,, friggin never buying a ford again, there ws some powerstroke money availbile to public for this exact thing, but stealership wouldn't forward request to FORD...
I have the 2005 and had 2004 models, one which was a 4x2 and that was nice, and the other which was an FX4 short bed and it was rough
My buddy works for ford and he says the 6.7s and already in for recalls and all kinds of maintenance issues. Just get a 6.0 bullet proof it and go for 500k miles my 06 has 375k still works fine and pulls great.
Thanks for encouragement buddy. Just bought used 2006 6.0. Love the truck but I am already having issues. Not sure yet. May have to sink another 7k just to get it bulletproof.
@@tubescott71 ugg
@@JamesTyreeII I know. Got too deep to back out. Getting ringed heads and APR studds. I’ve drove it maybe 3 weeks total since November.
got a 2005 6.0 250k, studded, egr gone, 4 inch back exhaust, cat coolant, coolant filtration and a tune.....i get a delta of about 3 degrees back roads and about 6 on highway. oil change rotella t6 and archoil every 5k.....they will look after you if you look after them.,
Too true, take care of your equipment and it'll take care of you. Looks like you've done everything you need to to make it reliable.
@@CtrlAltDefeatTV would like to put a remote oil cooler as i do not know whether is was changed in the past but i'll keep an eye on the temps!
CtrlAltDefeatTV my dad had a 6.0 he sold it when it had 500k
I have the 2003 Ford F-250 6.0L and we haul a 16ft steel livestock trailer (bumper pull) with a couple cattle and you can barley feel it the engine is stock as far as I know
Did u do any type of upgrades? What about the milage.
Nice truck ,I have same one but f250 . All stock except egr delete, it was installed when I bought it. It has 127,000 on it. It had a bit of a long start and no start hot once, upgraded stand pipe and dummy plugs. Now it starts and runs great. Yeah for full size truck it moves well. Nice truck.
Thanks! Mine actually had a no-start hot issue as well a few months into ownership. I replaced the stand pipe and dummy plugs on both sides as well as the STC fitting on the HPOP and now it starts beautifully everytime.
Im looking now found a 05 6.0 270k on it 7k cash trying to get it for 5k
Good looking truck👍
The 6 litres are good trucks. I have a 2005. But expect to put out money to get the sore spots right. Oil pump support system needs to be replaced, EGR valve, oil cooler and head studs. After this you are good to go for many, many km's.
Do you still own the 6.0 and what are your thoughts about it still. I’m currently looking for a F250 or 350 because I bought a travel trailer that’s a little bigger than I’d like for my 19 Ranger. And I really don’t want to trade in my Ranger on a F150 in the 16-18 range
I have a 2006 F-250 Superduty lariat 6.0 power stroke,has 280 k miles.all original. Finally just started leaking oil.love it.
If you want to sell your truck let me know I have the same truck looking for a new one it's the same color as your truck
I'm currently in the market for a 7.3 with the manual, but really thinking about the 6.0 auto. according to powerstrokehelp, they say that 04 is really the year you want to stay away from. They made a bunch of improvements over the years. The 6.0s get a very bad reputation, but when done right and taken care of, they are good trucks (from what I hear). Plus the reputation is so bad that they seem to be as cheap or cheaper than the 7.3s in my area.
6.7 L has had the longest run of a Ford pickup truck Turbodiesel engine, but they are expensive and complicated to repair and work on. The price range is SO expensive new.
Just bought a 03 F250 couple weeks ago. 46,000 miles really nice truck. I'm hoping for the best. I really like it!
The 6.4 power stroke is a non rebuildable engine from what powerstroke help says
It is if you spend 100k on it.
Thanks for sharing, thinking about an '06 Lariat that's supposedely been "bulletproofed' I'll be asking for proof of that before purchase. Price of vehicles these days are insane and they're only asking 15k for the one I'm looking at with around 240k miles.
How is the 6.0 holding holding up ?
Good luck bro
how many gallon for miles???
good video... right to point on each engine..
Good video! Keep it up
Here’s the reality with these, after owning one myself.
You can buy one for under 20 k.
Ya probably should save the $ for the head gaskets, don’t fuckin tune it. just leave it alone?
Get rid of egr, and drive it for about 20k less than a gm or dodge in the same year with more miles. I’ve replaced the injectors, did a exhaust and the Ficm and it’s done everything I needed it too, all
While being paid for. Just maintain it, change the oil and filters on time. I’ve put a lot of miles on mine, Difference of opinion here but I can buy 2 of these for the price of a newer gm or dodge.
With the EGR delete, your head gaskets should be fine. My old 6.0 ate two under warranty (head bolts reinstalled), as soon as the warranty expired, I deleted the EGR , installed a new oil cooler, and never had anymore issues. I now have a 1st gen 2014 6.7 with 118k miles, and a wrench has never touched the motor. It still has the dpf. With 6.0s getting cheaper, I've thought about buying one that's been bulletproofed to have as a second truck.
i have had a 7.3, 6.0, and a 6.4! loved the 7.3 with 340k miles but it was ext cab wouldnt fit the car seats for the kids, then i got the 6.4 it had 297k miles and it was pretty much a really fast money pit! ended up with a 2003 6.0 with 309k miles and couldn't be more happy with it!
Just those miles will make almost any truck a real nickel and dimer.
We are looking at a 2006 6.0 with 2,500 miles on a factory warranty rebuilt engine (maybe new?) he says it’s EGR deleted and bullet proofed. I can tell if it’s a new engine, but your video on how to tell if it’s bullet proofed is all messed up on the internet, won’t play but at the end. And I don’t see it on the utube app under your listings. What do you think of the factory warranty rebuild? You are like SO exactly in our category in so many ways! I just found (and subscribed and liked the video) your channel and it is good stuff for sure. I worked at a machine shop in San Diego that did all the work for the city bus system. Detroit Diesel and Mann diesels. In the early 1990s. Seems like a Ford engine replacement is a better bet than a 100k-200k vehicle that has so many possible problems that can’t be diagnosed properly without a full (and no way acceptable to private sellers) vehicle evaluation.
The B10 life of a 6.0 L Powerstroke is 250,000 lifetime miles
I did not know the 6.0 had the variable turbo,i thought that was on the 6.4?
6.0 was first powerstroke to have a vgt lol mine 03 6.0 screams like a jet lol even at idle lol 6.0 6.4 and now 6.7 all have variable geometry turbos
I just ran across this vid. Did you do any upgrades or the bulletproofing? I have the same year truck only difference mine being a short bed.
I haven't done anything significant on my truck, just a coolant bypass filter, 6.4 trans pan upgrade, fuel pressure gauge, and a few other small things. I haven't had any head gasket issues so I'm not going to tackle the studdding job just yet. If I had access to a lift for a few days then I'd for sure do it, but I don't.
The larger vehicles that had the 6.0 also had an egr system. The difference between the power stroke 6.0 and the international vt365(6.0 not in a Ford), it’s the turbo and the ficm. It’s a slightly larger turbo on the vt365 and the ficm is just not matched to a ford vin
I have a 05 f350 super crew lariat dually 8 ft bed for sale 233,000 miles $9,500 runs great if anyone in the Philadelphia area and want to check it out feel free to ask
Man I have the same truck, except someone wrapped camo on the bottom to tone.
Just bought a 2005 f350 Cclb xlt only 152000 miles
I just picked up the same truck 2006 around 200,000 miles it’s been deleted new aluminum radiator. What are you think should I do the studs? truck runs great!
In my opinion, if the truck is running well, leave the headbolts and head gaskets alone. I've shown in another video that I'm still on stock headbolts and head gaskets and I plan to run it like that for as long as I can. With an EGR delete and good coolant with a good radiator, you should be good to go for regular use.
On the other hand though, if you plan on running a hot tune or plan on towing a 3 or 4 car trailer loaded all the time, perhaps upgrading to studs with fresh head gaskets and O-ringed heads would be worth it.
The delete is the most important. If the head is holding up okay now then don’t worry about it. Dummy plugs and the STC connector is a huge plus to have done to eliminate those oil problems
What did you pay? And where and how did you buy it (like private seller or dealer). What research did you do when you went to look at the 6.0?
If you have a nice 6.4 and the motor goes bad on you (which it will) just have a Cummins conversion done professionally, about 10k-12k and you get to keep your nice looking truck
How u like it now
Still loving the truck, haven't had to do any major repairs on it. Towed across the country and it didn't skip a beat
Stay away from performance tunes. I run a stock 6.0 minus a coolant and oil bypass upgrade, blue spring upgrade and 5 inch cat back mbrp exhaust. I also have a scangauge2 from bulletproof diesel to keep an eye on my delta temps.
love my 6.0 but i loved it more when i got it lol got it stock with only arp studs and head gasket... i did egr delete, sct tune and turbo back 5"... everything was great! for a year lol then it blew an oil cooler screen and put metal shavings in 8/8 injectors, took out my hpop and my ipr... 8000 dollars in repairs wasnt fun... preventative maintenance is key* do your oil cooler ever 100K just to have piece of mind... any motor can have problems and all parts evenutally break down and fail... 6.0 is just another engine... no engine lasts forever lol cheers
What kind of temps were you running when you blew your oil cooler?
Once you fully bulletproof a 6.0, there ain’t a better running Diesel engine on the planet. Too bad Ford couldn’t get it right the first time.
I’m looking at a 2006 f250 6.0 a guy wanted to trade me for my Jeep TJ. thinking I am going to go for it. Studded, deleted, oil cooler all the good stuff. 196k
Not bad, if it's studded and the head gaskets look good, I say go for it. Just be careful, sometimes when guys get their trucks studded, it blows the HG's again shortly down the line. Don't really know why, maybe it's shoddy work, maybe it's improperly resurfaced heads or block, but just look out for that.
@@CtrlAltDefeatTV I've read the studs are being over torqued causing a crack or head gasket failure. Since the old ones stretched at the proper torque the new studs do not. New specs are backing off the torque some.
Does your EGR delete make you fail emissions?
It will make you fail your visual inspection if the mechanics there know what they're looking for. If you have emissions testing where you are, your best bet is to weld your EGR cooler so that no exhaust gas can pass through it, but it is still present and looks factory from the outside.
I thought it was a good video I've been thinking about buying one myself I was looking at 2005 King Ranch with 172000 miles on it was in really good shape need some body repairs the coolant looks really clean engine is clean no leagues very nice truck but I am very scared if something goes wrong with these things , they're so expensive to fix but that includes the 7.3, I have been looking for a nice 7.3 for a long time but like you said they're all getting old and tired with very high miles on them too.
Did you buy one. How did it work out for you
@@frznrrfan.frznrrfan102 I ended up buying a 1993 F250 4x4 7.3 IDI 5-speed manual extended cab 8 ft bed 152,000 miles on it
Once studded and deleted, the 6.0 is a great engine. I have an 05 and it is a great truck and engine combo. Makes amazing power and is as reliable as anything out there. The 7.3 is reliable, but it will not make power on par with the 6.0 and other diesels. With the government cracking down on the tuners with the emissions changes on the 08 up trucks, watch the 07 and earlier trucks keep climbing in value.
absolutely. Not to mention, the 5R110 transmission is way better than the 4R100 that comes on the 7.3
The 6.0 was the last good ford diesel before DPF and DEF. Only light emissions equipment with the EGR.
07 6.0 studded and deleted, still blew hgs 😡
good job.
I hope you didn’t do studs yourself cause that’s how you grenade a 6.0 cause you have to get everything sent out when you get studs done
The 7.3 is great, but a Bulletproof 6.0 is just all around better. The truck body itself is better too.
I agree on the 6.0 part but the body is literally the same.
@@granitejeep5967 The front shocks and springs are different, along with a thicker frame. The 1999-2004 just have a little shock. I said that post but my buddy's 6.0 just blew up today lol. Kinda changed my mind because his was bulletproofed.
@@sydliz1126 oh yeah I know about the suspension..the 6.0 that blew up..was it fully bulletproof? Egr delete or cooler, studs coolant filter etc? More importantly was he running a hot tune?
@@granitejeep5967 He tows a trailer for mowers but I don't know about the rest. I know he says it's bulletproof and I do know he spent 5k on something. He's going to borrow my Ecoboost for a while.
I got a 2006 f350 6.0 .....all problems are cause by the oil cooler clogging/ restriction......head gaskets. Egr ...over heating .you name it..replacing it is more than I bought the truck for..no mechanic will tell you the REAL Deal...because there is no money in it for them...SOLUTION back flush the oil cooler once a year...buy the tool on amazon... easy DYI maintenance
use ec1 coolant after you flush it, ec1 coolant doesnt have the silicates that clog the system
I'd recommend an adrenaline series hpop. I lost 2 OEM hoops and finally swapped for the adrenaline and it's a very well built product. I have egr delete, straight pipe, sct tune, blue spring upgrade, stand pipes and dummy plugs, mechanical fan conversion, 6" lift on air ride with 35s. Runs like a top. Almost 200k on it now. I've put 46k on it this year.
What year is your truck? 05-07 hpop failures are quite rare.
How many miles you got on the truck?
Got it with 200k on it, about 212k on it now
Ok, how much was it? Because some of these 6.0s by me with 150-200k miles are still running for 8-14k
I just thought it was good on how you was talkin about your 600 and I was watching the entire video one thing that I just wanted to let you know on is if you get rid of that 3 inch exhaust and upgraded to a for it will also help out with your EGR Delete it will let it breathe a lot better so the bigger the exhaust the better off you are mine has a 4-inch and mine does good another thing that I was watching as you was talkin about the head bolts that is something I would check into you near future but as a head up is up to you from one to another if your truck ever just drive down the road and shuts off for no reason at all it will probably be your thickum mine has right at $300,000 and it has been one of the best trucks I've ever owned I've never had a head gasket problem or a transmission problem out of mine I pulled a trailer day-to-day with mine mine is a 06 also
John Deere Plus-50 II oil every 5,000 miles in my 6.0. Rotella is garbage.
Total junk, cost me a fortune
Good luck my friend.
Sorry you had such a bad experience.
6.4 is a garbage engine. A friend has already replaced his 6.4 L engine
I bought a 2005 f250 two months ago, I got it off a car lot for $5300 with only 116000 on it. I am the second owner, So far so good.
you got a steal of a deal there
Where did u buy that ??
A used car lot in Mount Clemens Michigan, it was the today special lol. It was well taken care of and when I took it to have the oil changed the tech showed me the dip stick and said this is what it looks like when we get done. I was real lucky to find this one.
Has anyone mentioned that you look a little like Han from Tokyo Drift? Lol.
I've gotten that a few times
I like the 6.4 but agreed, it’s not good stock. My uncles got a 08 F550 6.4 it’s a Beauty but 55k and blew its motor. Too bad it’s so nice
FBI only 1 motor
I got a 6.4 powerstroke with 400,000 miles original motor
When you do the head gaskets you HAVE to do the lifters too. That’s the one final weak link in the 6.0s. You can fix every other single weak point and none of it will matter when you drop a roller bearing out of one of those lifters and it runs through your entire oil system. Motors done and you’re starting from the bottom up all over again
True, unfortunately to do the rear lifters you need to pull the engine off to pull the rear cover off, to pull the HPOP and the high pressure oil system to get the tubes out of the way. At least on the 05-07 style 6.0's
na! i'll pass on that.
Clean your truck.
Ikert3 Shutup fatass
Oops hit a nerve..lol
Why do you look like you’re about to cry? Are you being forced to make this video?
It’s a 8 cylinder
Why do you even need a diesel?
Why dont you need one
We have one in our fleet ..... gutless turd .
Is it in good running shape? I haven't owned too many modern diesel trucks but the 6.0 feels pretty quick and peppy to me. Coming from a 1st gen cummins it's like a damn rocket ship