Three is the magic number for how many printers to have: one is always working; one is down and in need of repairs; and one is acting just a little funny and requires some tinkering.
I intend to experiment with a non-OEM V5 hotend for the i3 Mega. This hotend has the pneumatic coupler with the blue plunger and allows the PTFE tube to travel only to the top of the radiator, not through it to the nozzle threads. In this hotend, I will use an ID 4.1mm throat/heatbreak lined with a 22-mm section of Capricorn PTFE. I've got three of these hotends prepped and waiting for their moment to come in off the bench. I think the OEM hotend runs into trouble once you start messing with temps of 250C and higher. I am hoping my plan fixes this issue.
This looks like exactly what happened to me. Going to try swapping out the hotend right now. How do I enable the runaway heating safety? I'm pretty sure that what caused my issue - and my hotend is scorched much like your old one - is that it got up to 400 degrees during printing one time without any instructions to or indication that it wasn't just plugging along nicely (until the smoke started...)
That tiny hotend connector for 3 or 4 amps the heater cartrige will draw?. You absolutely need to reflash the control board with the latest marlin and enable the safety checks. That connector is only rated to 3 amps. No safety margin there even for a 30W heating cartridge.
hi, i changed the 2 fans on the hot end housing with noctua but the fan that spinning is on the right only, the fan taht cool the part (left) not spinning anymore, i tried to print test just before it moves when the hot end start heating usually both fans were on, but now its just only one that move... the right one only, can you help me?
Man I had to replace the hot end assembly on my Anycubic, and since I cannot print anything....Ive been printing for 5 years and have 2 other machines but since the replacement its driving me nuts...I also noticed that the 2 rods are bent, hence I cant level the bed as it gets tighter in the center...I tried loosening up the rods and twisting them thinking they were bent slightly down so I would bend them up, but it doesnt matter, they just sag about 10 thou....I tried doing a benchy and one side looks like a mess and the other is fine....I am stuck on this machine!
@@Fugatech3DPrinting Ive since retired this little printer as the rods are bending creating a situation in which the head is closer to the middle of the print bed and therefor unable to get leveled. REALLY HORREDNOUS. Ive since order the Ender 5 to fill the gap in my printer collection and after seeing lots of videos...seems a better design and with a few tweaks should be good..
it's not a particularly great exapmle of an instructional video of how to take something apart when the machine you're taking apart is modified. you have totally missed steps anyone with a stock machine would have to do. you might as well have started your instructional video halfway through the process. I'm just asying you could have done this demo on a stock machine. other than that it was a good video
Three is the magic number for how many printers to have: one is always working; one is down and in need of repairs; and one is acting just a little funny and requires some tinkering.
Yep.. I just bought my 2nd and straight out of the box, it is not working.. great start.. welcome to 3D printing :)
Hey Shane, how about a video on your i3 Mega mods?
I intend to experiment with a non-OEM V5 hotend for the i3 Mega. This hotend has the pneumatic coupler with the blue plunger and allows the PTFE tube to travel only to the top of the radiator, not through it to the nozzle threads. In this hotend, I will use an ID 4.1mm throat/heatbreak lined with a 22-mm section of Capricorn PTFE. I've got three of these hotends prepped and waiting for their moment to come in off the bench. I think the OEM hotend runs into trouble once you start messing with temps of 250C and higher. I am hoping my plan fixes this issue.
nice vid! It would have been nice if you show how to remove and connect the PET-pipe also... :)
Only reason I wasted time watching this video
@@Johnston212 to avoid wasting time, you can use the fast forward function in the control panel of every video. :-)
This looks like exactly what happened to me. Going to try swapping out the hotend right now. How do I enable the runaway heating safety? I'm pretty sure that what caused my issue - and my hotend is scorched much like your old one - is that it got up to 400 degrees during printing one time without any instructions to or indication that it wasn't just plugging along nicely (until the smoke started...)
Cool. Thanks Shane.
Did you turn on the thermal runaway protection?
This requires a firmware update, yes?
@@pequodexpress - I assume that it does.
That tiny hotend connector for 3 or 4 amps the heater cartrige will draw?. You absolutely need to reflash the control board with the latest marlin and enable the safety checks. That connector is only rated to 3 amps. No safety margin there even for a 30W heating cartridge.
How it going my friend
Thank you for the video! 🙌🏻
Bro why tf you skipping the first step how tf do i get the cover off...
hi, i changed the 2 fans on the hot end housing with noctua but the fan that spinning is on the right only, the fan taht cool the part (left) not spinning anymore,
i tried to print test just before it moves when the hot end start heating usually both fans were on, but now its just only one that move... the right one only, can you help me?
Omg thank you so much for doing a video for it now my printer is running great 👍
Exactly what I needed tonight - thank you!
Hey ! I did it but my printer smells like a cable is burning when i heat the hotend ! I dont know what to do pls help
hi , can you speak about a tpu print with this machine ?
Man I had to replace the hot end assembly on my Anycubic, and since I cannot print anything....Ive been printing for 5 years and have 2 other machines but since the replacement its driving me nuts...I also noticed that the 2 rods are bent, hence I cant level the bed as it gets tighter in the center...I tried loosening up the rods and twisting them thinking they were bent slightly down so I would bend them up, but it doesnt matter, they just sag about 10 thou....I tried doing a benchy and one side looks like a mess and the other is fine....I am stuck on this machine!
oh man! I've since replaced my hotend with a v6 and a MK3S type hotend setup.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting Ive since retired this little printer as the rods are bending creating a situation in which the head is closer to the middle of the print bed and therefor unable to get leveled. REALLY HORREDNOUS. Ive since order the Ender 5 to fill the gap in my printer collection and after seeing lots of videos...seems a better design and with a few tweaks should be good..
weird, 2 plastic washers and 2 1/2 inch bits of tubing fell out of mine when i opened it where do these go?
I think those are the spacers for the stock 4010 fan.
I replaced my extruder but now it’s not even heating up at all
can I get a link for the different cooler u have?
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2663640
Great video, btw. Thank you!
wow really nice!
How to fit the other end of the tube?
What do you mean? Into the extruder?
Too bad the firmware doesn't have all safeties enabled like thermal runaway enabled, which would have saved the hot end.
thanks.
Hate to be that Guy but you spelled "ANYCUBIC" wrong. Good video tho. Just to help others find this video easier
Thanks! The tags were all correct, I just fat fingered the title.
Nice man 🤝
nice :)
it's not a particularly great exapmle of an instructional video of how to take something apart when the machine you're taking apart is modified. you have totally missed steps anyone with a stock machine would have to do. you might as well have started your instructional video halfway through the process. I'm just asying you could have done this demo on a stock machine. other than that it was a good video