Can you give me some more info on the raspberry pi octopi set up you are using & send over any links for it please as I’m looking at adding it onto mine?
That fact that a majority of things would that are listed in this video is stuff we can make and print ourselves is so mind blowing to me. I just did my first test and I’m amazed how it can do all this and now im finding out about upgrades the the machine can make itself … it’s totally awesome.
Thanks, helpful video. I just bought this model printer a few days ago as my first 3D printer. The learning curve is steep, and now it seems I'll be going down the raspberry pi rabbithole as well. I knew this would happen, which is why I avoided buying a FDM for so long.
The raspberry pi with Octoprint is pretty easy to setup and really upgrades your printer from an appliance into a smart machine. If you do very much printing you'll be glad once you get it setup
An easy upgrade i made was sticking an LED strip to the inside of the top frame shining down so i can see whats printing (especially with printing black filament its kinda hard to see whats going on) You can stick the LED strip all the way around for an even sorround lighting, especially if you wanna make Timelapse’s/ videos of your prints, makes them look more professional.. But for me it was just so i dont have to use my phone’s light to see wtf was going on PS. If you are having issue finding a Noctua fan to replace the original, sunon (which usually is the blower replacement brand of choice) also has a perfect fitting fan for the heatsink, its not quite as quiet as the noctua but it moves more air so cooling is better. And it costs like 1/3rd the price of the noctua
Hey JJ - I upgraded my Ai3M-S with TMC2208s and ran into a little snag that befuddled me for a good while. After installing the new drivers, the z-axis motors kept missing steps and all my prints were either very ugly or just unusable. I don't remember exactly where I got the info from, but I set the VRef for the drivers to 1.1v except for the extruder motor which I set to 1.3. Turns out, that 1.1v on the x-axis had too much torque. Every time the printhead had to stop and move in the opposite direction (e.g. solid infills) the z-axis would miss steps. Sometimes the pop was loud and sometimes soft. I fixed it by reducing the VRef for the x-axis to 0.9v. Thanks!
I remixed the cable chain from the flat printed chain designed by coillote because they’re much sturdier, I changed the locking clips and adjusted the mounting parts for the bed, thinking about the other cable chains plus a almost direct extruded by ronx666. I like your videos
I would recommend using the printer for a bit before taking on Klipper, if this is your first printer. There is a lot you will learn about you printer through using it for a few months before tackling a big project like Klipper, but whenever you feel ready it is an amazing upgrade, but not without some work
late, but i can attest to the cable chain mod. my cable actually got chewed straight through because i didn't print that, so I ended up having to replace the whole bed because i don't know how to solder. PRINT THE CABLE CHAIN!
@JJShankles I appreciate your video as someone who is just getting into printing and looking to upgrade my machine. Can you please provide me some more information on the Raspberry Pi 4B and what connectors are you using to connect to your printer. I know in another video you indicated that you can use Fluidd with the Raspberry Pi which is good. Thank you .
The cable chain you show has a file, but is printed in pieces. any chance you can make a small video explaining the cable chain printing, setting up, and any relevant info?
hello, thanks for all the awesome upgrade info. i have 3 anycubic mega s printers. can you prefer a good mosfet upgrade part for the mega s please. thanks a bunch!
I really like it! There are some things I think it does better than the Ender 3 style printer. I like the roller bearings over the v slot wheels, and the construction is very strong. They are both great printers, and mine is still running great after years of work
JJ, any chance you could do a video on that x carriage. ? I want to get that on my printer but their instructions are not great and their video moves at the speed of light so I can’t retain the information and hardware needs.
Do you have a video on maintenance upgrades/recommendations? I just bought a used mega s, and I can tell that my bed is not flat throughout (the middle sinks down) and I can’t get any good prints. I’m thinking my nozzle may also need to be replaced…
I'm having trouble installing the Y-Axis-Frame_v2 on my Anycubic Mega S: I'm using M3-0.5 10mm bolts as recommended in Thingiverse for this design. But the bolt holes seem to be just a little big. Are the holes in the printer frame here just not threaded? And if not, how do I install the frame? Also - great video and helpful comment replies; much appreciate you posting this.
You might want to look at some silicone springs for the print bed. Iv changed mine out and I have to say the bed stays way more level and for much longer. I don't think iv had to re-level for like a solid 2 months.
@@JJShankles I would love to see an updated list of the mods you've do then. I'm buying another printer so I can now rip the other one apart and would love to see everything you've done.
Do you have any guidance on how to install the cable chain? I’m looking all around and can’t find any instructions on how to install it! Do I need to remove the bed?
Yes, you unscrew the bed leveling screws all the way off, then the bed lifts off the frame. You then can use the screws that are already holding on to one of the linear bearings. Once you take the bed off it makes more sense
I have a couple of questions. For the x- carriage, what type of filiment did you use? Since I have not upgraded my hotend yet I am sort of limited, not able to print hotter types of filiment yet. I do have an anycubic mega x, so is there a different housing I need to print? And this is off topic, but I have not been able to get my mega x to connect to my windows laptop. I contacted anycubic support and they just keep sending me videos to watch. Not any help at all. I am using cura and pronterface. Neither will see my printer. I am a 62 year old newbie to 3d printing recovering from esophagus cancer, so I tend to have a lot of time to spare. Thank you for your time.
I printed mine out of PETG which should be fine on the stock hotend. I usually use 235C for PETG, and it has held up great. Yes you will need a different mount to put it on the mega x, but there are several options. I would recommend checking out the remixes page here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3537449/remixes And here are a few of the mounts for the mega X: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4555831 www.thingiverse.com/thing:4594101 Hopefully one of those can help. As for connecting to the laptop, that is a very common issue. Updating drivers may help, or here is one list someone made that might help: community.ultimaker.com/topic/37689-usb-connection-in-cura-410/ And welcome to 3d printing! It is an amazing hobby that can take up all the time you have to spare! Haha
I haven't made a video about setting up octoprint, but it is pretty simple to load in onto a raspberry pi here: octoprint.org/download/ The hardest part recently has been finding a raspberry pi in stock anywhere. The chip shortage has really hit the raspberry pi market.
Now I understand why my overhangs are not consistent... one side is better than the other in the last benchy that I made in this printer, I might upgrade the head as you did. How much did it cost to change the head?
It really didn't cost much except for a spool of PETG to print it with. Along with some screws that I already had laying around, and I think I upgraded the fans while I was at it. It is an upgrade I would highly recommend
Do you find this printer goes out of level stock? In my experience it seems like the printer loses its leveling either after or during longer prints. Additionally, the bed is warped. I’ve flashed knutwurst’s Marlin 2.0 based firmware to try and use Mesh Leveling to compensate, but it’s still not right. Maybe better springs to hold the tension better? I also noticed despite buying about a week ago, I got one of the old v1 revisions of these printers.
It did feel like it went out of level a lot when I first got it. I'm not sure what changed, but after a while it held level much better. Maybe just all the screws settling in place. I have heard stronger springs could help with that though.
having issues with mine. keep getting spaghetti . Have never updated it since bought.. i would love to have mine looking and working like yours for sure.
Is it printing spaghetti because it isn't sticking to the bed well? scuffing the bed with some light sand paper, or rubbing on some glue stick are my usual tricks to help prints stick well.
After two years running my Mega S in stock configuration with the thinking that I would upgrade to a different printer later on. But the Mega S has good, so I am going to improve it instead of swapping it out for another. All the mods you cover I have either done am planning to do (X Carriage and BL-Touch are in planning). But I do have one issue that I can't sort out with the firmware, I have tried several versions of the Mega-S specific Marlin firmware releases, with the goal of getting filament change at layer working. I keep running into "filament runout or sensor abnormal errors" as I change the filament and after I press continue. It does this if I leave the first filament in the sensor or not, does this if I use auto or manual filament change, in any case I have no means to continue the print, thankfully I am discovering this on quick test prints. It also does this if I print over USB (Oktaprint) or via SD. Seems like I am not the only one experiencing this, this issue has been noted in the github pages for the various firmware I have tried. I am thinking that I may need to compile the firmware with the filament sensor disabled. It's been noted that there are a few different versions of the Mega-S, mine was purchased in July 2020, and has the Trigorilla V0.0.2 board. Is this particular issue something you have any experience with with?
I haven't had that problem before, but I am running Klipper instead of Marlin firmware. I would recommend deactivating the filament runout sensor. I personally don't use them anymore, they are usually more trouble than they help me.
Wassup, JJ! Thanks for a great video! I have a small question - how did you connect a stock noctua 4 pin cable to a 2 pin stock i3 mega print head pinboard?
My noctua came with an adapter to change it to a simple 2 pin connector. But if you didn't have one of those adapters you could just plug in only the power and ground wires. You will loose the PWM functionality though
Thanks for the video! I received my Anycubic Mega S on the 13th of January and printed out the leveling wheels which by the way work great! Do you have any suggestions on up keep and maintenance? Do you have any other videos?
I've printed the adjustment knobs and was about to print the cable chain. Just noticed your rear right knob isn't in place, does it fit with the cable chain in place? Or do they collide?
i could see that you are using a bltouch but as far as i am aware davidramiro's marlin firmware doesnt support it, or if it does is there a video how it is set up. how did you figure it out.
I have it installed, but I can't get mine working. It was a cheap knockoff, and I understand now why people recommend getting the original. I can't get anything to turn on at all, so it is probably just a dead device.
Love this video! It helped me a ton as I just got into 3d printing. Links to the Raspberry Pi and anything else to make it work? I need to print remotely.
I was about to print the cable chain but I recently heard that the chain will increase the chance for the cable to break even more due to even smaller radius. What is your long-time experience with it? Thanks!
The wires were wearing through without the Y axis cable chain. If you make sure the chain is long enough, it will be way better with the chain than without
I need help my 11yr old bought a Anycubic Mega S from the company. He bought it refurbished. However the screen backlights up and makes touch sounds but know display. I contacted Anycubic and they said no warranty on refurbished and couldn't even direct me to a screen replacement. I need help please if anyone knows where I could get a replacement screen for the model it would be very very appreciated. Thank you
I did have to learn not to get my hands too close to the wheels since they were much easier to move, but I am so bad at remembering which way raises and lowers the bed they were worth it for me! Haha
JJ - great video and channel. For the cable chain, would you confirm the .stl parts on the Thingiverse design that are needed for that safety mod you show? Is it: Y-Axis bed Y-Axis-Frame_v2 Chain-Link-C Thanks!
I'm having trouble installing the Y-Axis-Frame_v2 on my Anycubic Mega S: I'm using M3-0.5 10mm bolts as recommended in Thingiverse for this design. But they aren't catching in the holes in the printer frame (revealed when I removed the cable tie from the Y-axis cable). What am I missing here? Thanks! Also - great video and helpful comment replies; much appreciate you posting this.
@@AD-hj3gu I had the same issue! I had to go and get lock nuts for those bolts and had to open up the bottom. I held the lock nuts in place with a wrench and screwed the bolts on from the other side in order to properly secure them to the base. I hope this helps!
Question: with the modified Z homing happening at (100,100), for some reason the printer now lays down the first test-squish-line at the beginning of each print at the center of the build plate rather than in the corner. This makes for some hilarious artifacts. Any suggestions on what would be causing that or how to address it? (Also, thanks for the great videos.)
I think that first squish line is defined in the slicer? I don't run one anymore and just print a skirt on the printer to prime the nozzle, but you could change that first line g code, or you could move the safe z homing position
Thanks; great video. I am brand new to 3D printing and this printer is one I was studying about. Curious: how is it that the stepper motor drivers (which have no moving parts) are able to quiet the printer? The fans I understand. I wish you would, for the sake of people like me, demonstrate or show how these mods are actually installed. Thanks for posting with this good information. Also, would this printer, in your opinion, be able to attain the necessary detail for printing items for a small N-scale model railroad, ie., automobiles, back hoes, building facades. Thanks.
The drivers make a sine wave using pulse-width modulation. Basically this means making a sine wave using only on and off switches. The periodicity with which this change happens determines the average effective voltage applied over the circuit. ' The smoother a driver is able to simulate this sine wave, the less noise it makes. Noice can be seen as loss of energy. Edit: as for your question. Depends. Getting accurate results really takes a thorough understanding of 3d printing. For best results consider looking into resin 3d printers which are accurate up to the resolution of the screen, which applies uv-light on resin to harden it. Then the detail is bounded to your screen resolution compared to ~0.1mm foor normal PLA 3d printers like this one.
@@biiingos47 Thank you. So, when you say "noise" you mean actual audible noise or just the random fluctuations that accompany the transmission of an electrical signal? Are they the same thing? If so, what is producing sound waves to my ear drum? The actual driver itself? Please forgive these dumb newbie questions. I can already tell I am about to get into an entirely new skill set with 3D printing. Back to school!
It is audio noise that you hear. A cheap motor driver makes the motors sound like an old cheap dot matrix printer. I was very surprised the first time I heard the difference. It basically changes the quality of signal that gets sent to the motor which causes less vibrations and noise. Here is a little demonstration from the makers of the stepper drivers: ruclips.net/video/Q0sJlGh9WNY/видео.html
@@JJShankles Okay, thank you; I get it now. When I was reading about all of this, people kept saying the the drivers made things quieter, but as I was looking I saw that the drivers were on the main board. I couldn't understand how they would be making any noise if there were soldered in place. It's the nature of the signal the motors are receiving; indeed, motors do have moving parts. Thanks JJ; I'm less ignorant than I was yesterday - much appreciated.
@@JJShankles İ don't mind Touchscreen either, it's not important for me. İ need jus to be useable, especially print precision , good leveling, voice etc. İ need it for 3d car key printing (İ guess both has heated bed, bu i assume that Zero 2.0 is newer model than ..) By the way thanks for replying!
The zero 2.0 is supposed to be their budget printer option. The Mega S has linear rod motion instead of V slot wheels which will be more accurate for small prints
On this printer I haven't had an issue with it keeping the hotend cool enough. Yes there are much better fans out there, but on an open hotend setup like this, it doesn't need as powerful of a fan.
I am yet to find a video where 3D printing actually happens from slicer settings, print settings and to finished model instead of peeps just talking about it.
I created a video detailing the Cable Chain mod since it was so highly requested: ruclips.net/video/ExGZnHVTWf8/видео.html
Can you give me some more info on the raspberry pi octopi set up you are using & send over any links for it please as I’m looking at adding it onto mine?
That fact that a majority of things would that are listed in this video is stuff we can make and print ourselves is so mind blowing to me. I just did my first test and I’m amazed how it can do all this and now im finding out about upgrades the the machine can make itself … it’s totally awesome.
Yes, is stuff we can make and print ourselves but is also stuff that should be solved before releasing the printer
I didn't want to upgrade my printer but your enthusiasm has convinced me I want to
Thanks, helpful video. I just bought this model printer a few days ago as my first 3D printer. The learning curve is steep, and now it seems I'll be going down the raspberry pi rabbithole as well. I knew this would happen, which is why I avoided buying a FDM for so long.
The raspberry pi with Octoprint is pretty easy to setup and really upgrades your printer from an appliance into a smart machine. If you do very much printing you'll be glad once you get it setup
The raspberry pi, leveling knobs and maybe the open heater design make the most sense 👌
An easy upgrade i made was sticking an LED strip to the inside of the top frame shining down so i can see whats printing (especially with printing black filament its kinda hard to see whats going on)
You can stick the LED strip all the way around for an even sorround lighting, especially if you wanna make Timelapse’s/ videos of your prints, makes them look more professional..
But for me it was just so i dont have to use my phone’s light to see wtf was going on
PS. If you are having issue finding a Noctua fan to replace the original, sunon (which usually is the blower replacement brand of choice) also has a perfect fitting fan for the heatsink, its not quite as quiet as the noctua but it moves more air so cooling is better. And it costs like 1/3rd the price of the noctua
Look for the bed leveling wheels with the locks on them so nice, I haven't have to re level the bed in months
Thanks for this video! Many awesome tips which I haven't heard of before, for example the cable chains for the Y axis!
Hey I just got one of these and I'm hyped to set it up and learn a lot for down the line.
Hey JJ - I upgraded my Ai3M-S with TMC2208s and ran into a little snag that befuddled me for a good while. After installing the new drivers, the z-axis motors kept missing steps and all my prints were either very ugly or just unusable. I don't remember exactly where I got the info from, but I set the VRef for the drivers to 1.1v except for the extruder motor which I set to 1.3. Turns out, that 1.1v on the x-axis had too much torque. Every time the printhead had to stop and move in the opposite direction (e.g. solid infills) the z-axis would miss steps. Sometimes the pop was loud and sometimes soft. I fixed it by reducing the VRef for the x-axis to 0.9v. Thanks!
I hadn't heard that too much could cause that issue, but that's great to know. And good that it is now working for you!
I remixed the cable chain from the flat printed chain designed by coillote because they’re much sturdier, I changed the locking clips and adjusted the mounting parts for the bed, thinking about the other cable chains plus a almost direct extruded by ronx666. I like your videos
Aesthetic. It’s a wonderful word. 😁
Ass-thetik 🤭
The fan is called "SUNON MF50151VX-B00C-A99", there is a "1" missing
just ordered for 140€ on sale straight from anycubic, this will be fun. First step for me will be klipper, though
I would recommend using the printer for a bit before taking on Klipper, if this is your first printer. There is a lot you will learn about you printer through using it for a few months before tackling a big project like Klipper, but whenever you feel ready it is an amazing upgrade, but not without some work
@@JJShankles I've already worked with other printers a bunch and installed Klipper on one of them, just never got around to getting one privately
That makes sense! Haha I didn't want someone who had never touched a printer before to try Klipper the very first thing.
Just 4k views? Yikes! You helped me alot, thanks!
Your videos have 100k plus subscribers quality. Keep up the good work. Hopefully the algorithm favors you.
Thank you for the encouragement! I'll keep it up!
late, but i can attest to the cable chain mod. my cable actually got chewed straight through because i didn't print that, so I ended up having to replace the whole bed because i don't know how to solder. PRINT THE CABLE CHAIN!
Not late bro I will try it, mine is in pieces and needs a full rebuild
@JJShankles I appreciate your video as someone who is just getting into printing and looking to upgrade my machine. Can you please provide me some more information on the Raspberry Pi 4B and what connectors are you using to connect to your printer. I know in another video you indicated that you can use Fluidd with the Raspberry Pi which is good. Thank you .
Dude you helped so much for us newbies!!!
Glad I could help!
The cable chain you show has a file, but is printed in pieces. any chance you can make a small video explaining the cable chain printing, setting up, and any relevant info?
Yeah I can do that. I've had several requests for that, it should be out later this week or early next week
hello, thanks for all the awesome upgrade info. i have 3 anycubic mega s printers. can you prefer a good mosfet upgrade part for the mega s please. thanks a bunch!
I’m an Ender 3 V2 guy but just got an Anycubic Mega S on a good Black Friday deal so I have a second printer. How do you like this printer overall?
I really like it! There are some things I think it does better than the Ender 3 style printer. I like the roller bearings over the v slot wheels, and the construction is very strong. They are both great printers, and mine is still running great after years of work
@@JJShankles Awesome. That's what I like to hear. I'm excited to try something different than the Ender. Thanks for the response.
Another great video for us Mega S owners. Your prints come out just beautiful, whats settings profile do you use in your slicer(s)?
I use Cura slicer, and have a custom one for different materials.
Awesome video, thanks. What is the filament holder your using ?
That is the stock one for the Mega S, but there are some similar ones on thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2647030
JJ, any chance you could do a video on that x carriage. ? I want to get that on my printer but their instructions are not great and their video moves at the speed of light so I can’t retain the information and hardware needs.
Thanks bro very helpful especially with the links to everything
Do you have a video on maintenance upgrades/recommendations? I just bought a used mega s, and I can tell that my bed is not flat throughout (the middle sinks down) and I can’t get any good prints. I’m thinking my nozzle may also need to be replaced…
I'm having trouble installing the Y-Axis-Frame_v2 on my Anycubic Mega S: I'm using M3-0.5 10mm bolts as recommended in Thingiverse for this design. But the bolt holes seem to be just a little big. Are the holes in the printer frame here just not threaded? And if not, how do I install the frame?
Also - great video and helpful comment replies; much appreciate you posting this.
I used a zip tie so I didn’t have to open the case it’s a little fiddling but works nice
You didn't have one of the modded wheels on the back right. Does it collide with the Cable chain post?
Yes, I had to take it off when I added the cable chains
@@JJShankles I'll try taking a notch out of the Supports on the post, then print the post at 100% so it is solid.
You might want to look at some silicone springs for the print bed. Iv changed mine out and I have to say the bed stays way more level and for much longer. I don't think iv had to re-level for like a solid 2 months.
I ended up ridged mounting it after installing a BLTouch. I used some large metal nuts, and it does great at not changing the level.
@@JJShankles I would love to see an updated list of the mods you've do then. I'm buying another printer so I can now rip the other one apart and would love to see everything you've done.
Do you have any guidance on how to install the cable chain? I’m looking all around and can’t find any instructions on how to install it! Do I need to remove the bed?
I’d also love to know this can’t seem to find any info on how to install.
Yes, you unscrew the bed leveling screws all the way off, then the bed lifts off the frame. You then can use the screws that are already holding on to one of the linear bearings. Once you take the bed off it makes more sense
@@JJShankles Did you have to drill the base where the bed cable comes out to install that bracket?
I have a couple of questions.
For the x- carriage, what type of filiment did you use? Since I have not upgraded my hotend yet I am sort of limited, not able to print hotter types of filiment yet.
I do have an anycubic mega x, so is there a different housing I need to print?
And this is off topic, but I have not been able to get my mega x to connect to my windows laptop. I contacted anycubic support and they just keep sending me videos to watch. Not any help at all.
I am using cura and pronterface. Neither will see my printer.
I am a 62 year old newbie to 3d printing recovering from esophagus cancer, so I tend to have a lot of time to spare.
Thank you for your time.
I printed mine out of PETG which should be fine on the stock hotend. I usually use 235C for PETG, and it has held up great.
Yes you will need a different mount to put it on the mega x, but there are several options. I would recommend checking out the remixes page here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3537449/remixes
And here are a few of the mounts for the mega X:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4555831
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4594101
Hopefully one of those can help.
As for connecting to the laptop, that is a very common issue. Updating drivers may help, or here is one list someone made that might help: community.ultimaker.com/topic/37689-usb-connection-in-cura-410/
And welcome to 3d printing! It is an amazing hobby that can take up all the time you have to spare! Haha
Do you have a link to buy a raspberry pie with Octoprint already set up? or a link to how to completely set that up?
I haven't made a video about setting up octoprint, but it is pretty simple to load in onto a raspberry pi here: octoprint.org/download/
The hardest part recently has been finding a raspberry pi in stock anywhere. The chip shortage has really hit the raspberry pi market.
I turned my leveling knobs upside down, and put some plumbers tape on the threads. If I sneezed hard before I did this, it'd unlevel.
That's a great idea!
Now I understand why my overhangs are not consistent... one side is better than the other in the last benchy that I made in this printer, I might upgrade the head as you did.
How much did it cost to change the head?
It really didn't cost much except for a spool of PETG to print it with. Along with some screws that I already had laying around, and I think I upgraded the fans while I was at it. It is an upgrade I would highly recommend
how is this sucker holding up few years later?
Do you find this printer goes out of level stock?
In my experience it seems like the printer loses its leveling either after or during longer prints. Additionally, the bed is warped. I’ve flashed knutwurst’s Marlin 2.0 based firmware to try and use Mesh Leveling to compensate, but it’s still not right. Maybe better springs to hold the tension better?
I also noticed despite buying about a week ago, I got one of the old v1 revisions of these printers.
It did feel like it went out of level a lot when I first got it. I'm not sure what changed, but after a while it held level much better. Maybe just all the screws settling in place. I have heard stronger springs could help with that though.
having issues with mine.
keep getting spaghetti . Have never updated it since bought..
i would love to have mine looking and working like yours for sure.
Is it printing spaghetti because it isn't sticking to the bed well? scuffing the bed with some light sand paper, or rubbing on some glue stick are my usual tricks to help prints stick well.
@@JJShankles Thanks will try it.
After two years running my Mega S in stock configuration with the thinking that I would upgrade to a different printer later on. But the Mega S has good, so I am going to improve it instead of swapping it out for another. All the mods you cover I have either done am planning to do (X Carriage and BL-Touch are in planning). But I do have one issue that I can't sort out with the firmware, I have tried several versions of the Mega-S specific Marlin firmware releases, with the goal of getting filament change at layer working. I keep running into "filament runout or sensor abnormal errors" as I change the filament and after I press continue. It does this if I leave the first filament in the sensor or not, does this if I use auto or manual filament change, in any case I have no means to continue the print, thankfully I am discovering this on quick test prints. It also does this if I print over USB (Oktaprint) or via SD. Seems like I am not the only one experiencing this, this issue has been noted in the github pages for the various firmware I have tried. I am thinking that I may need to compile the firmware with the filament sensor disabled. It's been noted that there are a few different versions of the Mega-S, mine was purchased in July 2020, and has the Trigorilla V0.0.2 board. Is this particular issue something you have any experience with with?
I haven't had that problem before, but I am running Klipper instead of Marlin firmware. I would recommend deactivating the filament runout sensor. I personally don't use them anymore, they are usually more trouble than they help me.
Do you by chance have a video on installing the steppers on this printer?
I used this video to help change mine, was great! ruclips.net/video/ywscQehQ80M/видео.html
Wassup, JJ!
Thanks for a great video!
I have a small question - how did you connect a stock noctua 4 pin cable to a 2 pin stock i3 mega print head pinboard?
My noctua came with an adapter to change it to a simple 2 pin connector. But if you didn't have one of those adapters you could just plug in only the power and ground wires. You will loose the PWM functionality though
Thanks for the video! I received my Anycubic Mega S on the 13th of January and printed out the leveling wheels which by the way work great! Do you have any suggestions on up keep and maintenance? Do you have any other videos?
Using your printer to upgrade your printer? Holy matrix Batman
You're gonna love RepRap, making a 3d printer from another
I've printed the adjustment knobs and was about to print the cable chain. Just noticed your rear right knob isn't in place, does it fit with the cable chain in place? Or do they collide?
I meant to mention that. Yeah they would collide, so I leave that one off and only use the other three
i could see that you are using a bltouch but as far as i am aware davidramiro's marlin firmware doesnt support it, or if it does is there a video how it is set up. how did you figure it out.
I have it installed, but I can't get mine working. It was a cheap knockoff, and I understand now why people recommend getting the original. I can't get anything to turn on at all, so it is probably just a dead device.
Hi just started printing all cables but was wondering how many links i need to print for each chain?
Here are my links per chain:
X- 25
Y- 16
Z Left side- 20
Z Right side- 25
I have a rare variation of this printer with a little screen on the top. I have to rebuild the entire thing cuz the wires are a huge mess
I bought the printer today and it looks like that the fan and TMC2208 will arrive before the printer 😅
Is the sunon fan a 12v or 24v?
It is a 12V fan. Everything on this printer is 12V from the power supply.
Awesome video! Just got an anycubic mega x as my first printer. Do you know if the X carriage mod work with the mega x??
I think it probably would, but I'm not sure how it would work with the laser attachment
@@JJShankles what material did you print the x carriage with?
I used PETG, and it is holding up well. PLA wouldn't work well for this application
Love this video! It helped me a ton as I just got into 3d printing.
Links to the Raspberry Pi and anything else to make it work? I need to print remotely.
Did you just plug the heatsink noctua fan into the 3 pin adapter?
I was about to print the cable chain but I recently heard that the chain will increase the chance for the cable to break even more due to even smaller radius. What is your long-time experience with it? Thanks!
The wires were wearing through without the Y axis cable chain. If you make sure the chain is long enough, it will be way better with the chain than without
@@JJShankles So you had no damages after installing the chain? Thanks!
That is correct, I have had no damages. If you install it correctly, it should prevent damages
where do you recommend getting small amounts of m3 screws/nuts/washers?
I need help my 11yr old bought a Anycubic Mega S from the company. He bought it refurbished. However the screen backlights up and makes touch sounds but know display. I contacted Anycubic and they said no warranty on refurbished and couldn't even direct me to a screen replacement. I need help please if anyone knows where I could get a replacement screen for the model it would be very very appreciated. Thank you
I tried those same larger knobs and found that it was too easy to accidentally knock out of level. Do you not find the same?
I did have to learn not to get my hands too close to the wheels since they were much easier to move, but I am so bad at remembering which way raises and lowers the bed they were worth it for me! Haha
JJ - great video and channel. For the cable chain, would you confirm the .stl parts on the Thingiverse design that are needed for that safety mod you show? Is it:
Y-Axis bed
Y-Axis-Frame_v2
Chain-Link-C
Thanks!
Yes those are correct! use the v2 for the Anycubic Mega S
I'm having trouble installing the Y-Axis-Frame_v2 on my Anycubic Mega S: I'm using M3-0.5 10mm bolts as recommended in Thingiverse for this design. But they aren't catching in the holes in the printer frame (revealed when I removed the cable tie from the Y-axis cable). What am I missing here? Thanks!
Also - great video and helpful comment replies; much appreciate you posting this.
@@AD-hj3gu I had the same issue! I had to go and get lock nuts for those bolts and had to open up the bottom. I held the lock nuts in place with a wrench and screwed the bolts on from the other side in order to properly secure them to the base.
I hope this helps!
Anyway to make this self leveling?
hey JJ. One question mate, how did you get the arrows printed on the exterior of the leveling spinning wheels?
He linked a remix in his description. Just look under "Remixed from" on thingiverse for the stl with arrows :)
Question: with the modified Z homing happening at (100,100), for some reason the printer now lays down the first test-squish-line at the beginning of each print at the center of the build plate rather than in the corner. This makes for some hilarious artifacts. Any suggestions on what would be causing that or how to address it? (Also, thanks for the great videos.)
I think that first squish line is defined in the slicer? I don't run one anymore and just print a skirt on the printer to prime the nozzle, but you could change that first line g code, or you could move the safe z homing position
what is good spring upgrade, i tried some others but there to small
I have the same printer but i cant leveling lolol, for some reason 1 2 and 3 works but 4 always the nozzle hit the platform.
Thanks; great video. I am brand new to 3D printing and this printer is one I was studying about. Curious: how is it that the stepper motor drivers (which have no moving parts) are able to quiet the printer? The fans I understand. I wish you would, for the sake of people like me, demonstrate or show how these mods are actually installed. Thanks for posting with this good information.
Also, would this printer, in your opinion, be able to attain the necessary detail for printing items for a small N-scale model railroad, ie., automobiles, back hoes, building facades. Thanks.
The drivers make a sine wave using pulse-width modulation. Basically this means making a sine wave using only on and off switches. The periodicity with which this change happens determines the average effective voltage applied over the circuit. ' The smoother a driver is able to simulate this sine wave, the less noise it makes. Noice can be seen as loss of energy.
Edit: as for your question. Depends. Getting accurate results really takes a thorough understanding of 3d printing. For best results consider looking into resin 3d printers which are accurate up to the resolution of the screen, which applies uv-light on resin to harden it. Then the detail is bounded to your screen resolution compared to ~0.1mm foor normal PLA 3d printers like this one.
@@biiingos47 Thank you. So, when you say "noise" you mean actual audible noise or just the random fluctuations that accompany the transmission of an electrical signal? Are they the same thing? If so, what is producing sound waves to my ear drum? The actual driver itself? Please forgive these dumb newbie questions. I can already tell I am about to get into an entirely new skill set with 3D printing. Back to school!
It is audio noise that you hear. A cheap motor driver makes the motors sound like an old cheap dot matrix printer. I was very surprised the first time I heard the difference. It basically changes the quality of signal that gets sent to the motor which causes less vibrations and noise. Here is a little demonstration from the makers of the stepper drivers: ruclips.net/video/Q0sJlGh9WNY/видео.html
@@JJShankles Okay, thank you; I get it now. When I was reading about all of this, people kept saying the the drivers made things quieter, but as I was looking I saw that the drivers were on the main board. I couldn't understand how they would be making any noise if there were soldered in place. It's the nature of the signal the motors are receiving; indeed, motors do have moving parts. Thanks JJ; I'm less ignorant than I was yesterday - much appreciated.
I was hoping for an install video as well! (funny thing though, I can't see any of JJ's replies here...)
İ need advice to make a choice between Mega S(i3) vs Mega Zero 2.0 if they are same price.
For the same price get the Mega S. It is way better
@@JJShankles İ don't mind Touchscreen either, it's not important for me. İ need jus to be useable, especially print precision , good leveling, voice etc. İ need it for 3d car key printing (İ guess both has heated bed, bu i assume that Zero 2.0 is newer model than ..)
By the way thanks for replying!
The zero 2.0 is supposed to be their budget printer option. The Mega S has linear rod motion instead of V slot wheels which will be more accurate for small prints
@@JJShankles Great!
Thank you for share your opinion!
How do you install the tmc2209 drivers?
where did you get the octoprint device
can the x carriage be printed in pla+?
my guy looks like mark zucerbugs more handsome cousin
Anyone have the link to these upgrades?
Great video
Thanks!
Noctua are silent but not good for cooling the hot end
On this printer I haven't had an issue with it keeping the hotend cool enough. Yes there are much better fans out there, but on an open hotend setup like this, it doesn't need as powerful of a fan.
Can't find the Firmware
Why do you look up every few seconds? Wink if you are being held against your will...
Haha it is my video monitor that is mounted on top of the camera. Sometimes I mess up and keep an eye on it
better to video you ACTUALLY DOING things instead of talking about what you already did.
I am yet to find a video where 3D printing actually happens from slicer settings, print settings and to finished model instead of peeps just talking about it.
"high power" 40w, 12v, 3.333amp