WOW!!! My first update is the TMC 2209 V3.0 and while it is printing I had to come here and comment!!! It a new printer the best purchase ever (so far kk). Incredible noise reduction and the new sound will be like music to your hear. Great channel keep posting and getting new subscribers. Just additional comment I used Vref to all 0.9V works fine.
thank you so much for this. Just finished replacing steppers, stepper fan, hot end fan, power supply fan.. all in about 45 minutes. Only difference from your instructions is grd to vref is actually the little copper pad not the pin on the 2209 stepper the Mega X does in fact have a seperate mosfet so bed power is not connected directly to motherboard any longer.
Thank you for adding these comments I just tried to do the 2209 stepper motor upgrade and I can't get my machine to work 🤦🏻 I was getting frustrated but then read your comment and I think realized what some of my mistakes are I probably need to put the mosfets back to stock cuz after following this video I'm having trouble with my hot bed and hot and both are increasing in temperature but are not having any temperature readouts through the screen. I also am not able to get any of my motors to work when I turn it on and try to get them to go back to home positions
DISCLAIMER(on behalf of Modern Hobbyist) = Modern hobbyist is obviously a experience user with electronics, if you are new to electronics - don't mess with upgrading the fan on the power supply unit. Even turned off, (those black looking silos) capacitors can take hours sometimes days to discharge, there is a risk of a very painful electric shock(see that bright yellow CAUTION sticker), even burns are possible. Always use a insulated screwdriver and an anti-static strap if you are going to attempt to upgrade the fan of your power supply unit. That being said, excellent video!
Thanks for the comment! I agree, some of these updates aren't for the faint-hearted, but I definitely encourage everyone to get out there and try new things! Great advice though, I appreciate it!
Great video well worth the effort to change to the stepper drivers. I installed the everyone 2209 v3 and all I can hear are the fans. Much appreciated for the instructions.
Well you just got a sub. Just got 2 of these printers from my brother and immediately noticed how loud they were compared to my other printer. Thank you for doing this video. Really amazing.
You are a legend !! I swear the the step driver change to tmc2209 for my mega x , made my printer feel like a stealthy ninja 🥺🥺🥺 you are amazing thank you !!!!
I know this is an old comment, but did you switch every plug around or just some? I have a Mega X and these stepper drivers too and don't want to mess anything up. Thanks
I Advice every owner of an Anycubic i3 Mega to do the stepper motor driver upgrade. Even with no expirience in electronics it's not that hard to do but it makes a huge difference in the noice coming from the motors.
Thank you for this excellent video. I have recently received a Mega S (my first 3d printer) and will try these upgrades over time, after getting used to the printer.
The idea about keep the power source out of the heated chamber is great and I was thinking about that for a while, just finish my printer box and apply this idea...great solution to keep the power source cool, next will be to design a cooling duct from the bottom of the box to use external fresh air to cool the steppers
Thanks for the comment! I do hope to implement something like that in my next enclosure build, the hard part would be making sure the fresh air doesn't affect print quality. Thanks!
@@ModernHobbyist to avoid that I was thinking to create a duct to suck the outside air blow over the drivers and blow out of the box, the airflow can pass thru the grill area from RIght to the left side of the printer. (grill area just below the SD card reader and Ethernet port)
Thanks, Charlie for the videos! I appreciate them. I did the stepper upgrade and it worked amazing. I tend to be a paint by number guy on this stuff with electronics as it's new to me. So little things that are not mentioned leave me "blocked". Like the fact that the second stepper motor in from the right the wires are reversed and not with the black in the flip position. I wondered what that would do but saw another video where it was just flipped and left with blue facing in the upside-down position. I know it's hard to do videos that cover EVERYTHING. I was wondering if you had done three separate videos for each and slowed down a bit with a video that showed the exact connections it would help. I have the MOSFETs on my desk ready to go but the video leaves out a lot of the step by step, and I am nervous about what is "next". I have the new fan too but I think that will be fine. Thanks again! I will follow with interest and grateful that you are doing these!
Thanks for the comment Jeff! I believe in the video, I just recorded before I had flipped all the connectors, so some of them appear in the original orientation. I don't have a video of the MOSFET process by itself, but I'll check around to see if someone else has made a video specifically on that topic. Thanks again for the comment, glad you enjoyed watching!
Great video, definitely helped me when I was upgrading my i3 Mega. One thing I would say, when you were saying how the TMC2209s have microstepping up to 1/256. While this is true, I do believe that this is only when you connect them in UART mode. When you use them or the 2208s in Legacy mode, like you demonstrated here, I believe that they only have a 1/16 microstepping resolution still. But still a great video!
Thanks for the comment and the information! I wasn't aware of how they were being used in the i3 Mega, so that is incredibly helpful knowledge to have! Thanks!
Great video. But as a electic noobie, you could add a little more detail . for example what to put my multimeter on? 0.85 voltage is 0.85volts? i kept googling stuff because i coulnt keep up^^ i saw the factory voltage is 1,2V, would that even make a huge difference to go down to 0.85?
4 года назад+3
Really interesting video, well done. I've been following you on Instagram and I'm glad you're starting to make videos. Good job!
Completed the TMC2209 exchange today with help from this video! Thank you!. I would love to see a video explaining in detail the integration with the Raspberry Pi and a full walk through of setting it up with Octoprint. As a compelte noob to 3D printing, it would be a great help! :D
Nice video. I'm planning to DIY an enclosure for my Anycubic Kobra (standard), but I'm not sure how to deal with the power supply and how to detect and reroute it to the printer. Do you have any information on how to approach this? Every answer is appreciated.
7:57 "connected the two mosfets together on the same extension cord" could you elaborate on this? I'm not sure if you have it on your site, I'm not seeing a write up anywhere, I think the link to github is broken.
in the video you showed pin 1 being Vref but when i got mine(through your link because why not) i found out you have to messure through the little hole that has a copper pad thats right by it.
Really interesting stuff. Love my Mega S and definitely am interested in the power supply and stepper upgrades. I probably won't be building an enclosure since I print in the basement, so I was wondering: Will the modified PSU enclosure still fit back in the base of the Mega if I didn't want to house it externally?
Thanks for the comment! I'm not positive if it would fit back in the enclosure, it might be a bit of a squeeze. You might want to check Thingiverse for alternative covers that are intended to be placed back in the body of the printer. I'm sure there are other people out there like you that just want to upgrade the fan, so it's worth a shot!
@@ModernHobbyist No problem. I've been wanting to improve my i3 mega and make an enclosure. I would say that the mic breaks and makes an unpleasant sound. However, your video's are professional with more info than hype. It has high quality and gets to the point, while giving sufficient details. Thank you.
Just as a side note, drop-in replacement with TMC2208 or 2209s cannot fully utilize their 1/256 microstepping. I think it only does 1/32 automatically. You have to configure the 2209s in UART mode to make use of the full microstepping.
@@ModernHobbyist Yeah it's actually 1/16 microstepping with 1/256 interpolation (ruclips.net/video/7VHwcEroHPk/видео.html). You have to go into UART mode to get native 1/256 microstepping, but this requires a lot more configuration.
Great video. Provided me with great info for upgrading my Max S. I am wondering, as I'm new to 3D printing, is upgrading the mobo to a 32-bit worth it? What benefits would I get by doing so, if it's worth doing? Thanks!
Hey Brian, thanks for the comment! I haven't thought about before, but now I might have to look into it as a future project. I'll try to let you know how it goes!
Ultimately, the TMC2208's will probably provide you with more than enough functionality. There are some differences: TMC2209 - 2.0A current rating, sensorless homing, and lower heat output (cooler operation). TMC2208 - 1.5A current rating, slightly warmer operation (but still good). The sensorless homing would be the biggest difference, but the i3 mega already has endstops, so this feature is redundant on most current 3d printers. Hope this helps!
Thanks for the video. Great info. Just one recommendation: your audio signal is way too hot and clips a ton. Better dial your mic/amp or effect chain a bit down and have a clean signal.
Thanks for the tip! I have a new mic now (not to mention I learn new things about content creation everyday) so hopefully future videos are better. Cheers!
Thanks for the video, so keep the same steper motors but just change the drivers? I assume it should be the same for my Anycubic mega pro, which i have? I am having a few issues with mine and i think the main board has just died. I am going to buy a Prusa but keep the mega pro and do mods like this. Mods do chew your time but its also how you get the best hands on experience.
Love the channelamd looking for advice, I'm getting major fluctuations on hot end temp. I've replaced and tuned still no joy. I think it could be my power pack. Is there one you would recommend replacing it with please. I'm pretty novice when it comes to wiring and soldering so atx conversion is a big no. I've done steppers, added bl touch, fans and added raspberry just as FYI. I really appreciate it.
I now have three Mega S's and will most likely do this mod to at least one of them because its just so darn cool. Wonderful job! When ordering parts I need to buy 4x TMC2209 Stepper Motor Drivers correct? Also the 3d Printer HotBed MOSFET comes in a pack of two, is that enough as it wasn't totally clear to me? I just want to be certain before I order my parts. Thank you for posting this, now I must go look at your other videos.
Thanks for the comment! For the TMC2209, you will need 5 pieces. You should be able to find packs of 5 on Amazon or Aliexpress no problem. For the MOSFETs, you'll need two total. One for the Hotbed and one for the Hotend. Hope that helps!
Love your videos! I've seen others do a similar thing, but they bend pins 3,4,5, and 7 out of the way on the blue side then add a wire to the board to enable Uart mode. Would there be an advantage to that or best left as it is in the standard mode?
Hi, I installed on my Anycubic i3 Mega (not S) drivers TMC2209 v3.1 and my printer stopped printing, everything works, everything moves, but the plastic stopped sticking to the table .... Now I don't know what to do ... Help if you know the solution to this problems. Thanks
Hi Charlie, I realize it's been a year but I saw your video & ordered s2209s for mine. when I received them I noticed they weren't ver 3.0 like yours, they are ver 3.1 & while the pinout is almost identical, they're not. tx & rx are reversed and one called cx is added. I stopped the install, wanting to make sure before proceeding. if you would, please advise me on this issue, and thank you in advance.
Hey Charlie. Thanks for all the content. It really is extremely helpfull. I have decided to go through with most of these upgrades. At least the stepper drivers and hotend fan upgrades. I will probably wait on the Mosfet since I don't plan to print with ABS yet. But my biggest challenges have been with bed adhesion and first layer quality. Would upgrading the stepper drivers help with that? I have flashed Marlin firmware and have gone through the mesh leveling several times. Calibrated the E steps more than once. It seems like the mesh leveling tweaks are diferent every time. Is it possible I have a warped bed?
Thanks for the comment, I'll repeat what I mentioned in your email just in case others have the same issues as you: 1. Try re-leveling the bed with some paper so it is just scratching the nozzle 2. Increase bed temp and nozzle temp for the initial layers on the print 3. Slow the initial layers waaaaay down (~15mm/s). This was a huge help for me. 4. Move parts away from known low spots on your bed in your slicer. I print small parts towards the front of my print bed, just to be safe. Thanks again for the comment and the email, hope that helps!
Hey Julian, thanks for your comment! The pinout on the TMC2208 (and 09) is slightly different than the A4988 drivers that come stock with this printer, but you can get around this without changing the firmware if you flip the motor connectors 180 degrees. You are correct though, if you don't want to flip the connectors, than switching firmware will also work.
Hi, great video..really great job ... I replaced also my stepper drivers but after that my printings started to shift the layers ... I'm using Marling updated ... Do you know or have any idea what could be?
I do highly discourage to modify the power supply as shown here. Power supplies use metal casings for a reason: shielding. That's why the cases do have a direct connection to ground, so in case of a loose cable/shortage/whatever the fuse of your electric installation is triggered. Additionally the casing is fully closed to ensure a certain air flow over all the componentes. The shown replacement has a grid structure instead, which will decrease the air flow and especially if the printer resides in a housing probably results in higher temperatures.
Great video by the way and I appreciate the hard work you are doing, I have seen certain setups where they bypass power to the main board through the Mosfet so that you are saving an output from the power supply perhaps, not sure if there are any spare outputs on this PSU as I have only just bought the Mega S, I know you have a dual Mosfet setup one for hot end and for the heat bed and it makes sense to have direct power supply from the PSU. Do you have you own wiring diagram for your setup at all?
Thanks for the comment! I don't have a schematic written down, but the Mega S should have the exact same PSU as the Mega (non S). The PSU just connects to the input on both MOSFET's, and the Hotbed and Hotend are connected to the output ports on each respective MOSFET. Then the motherboard port that previously powered the hotbed and hotend is connected to the signal input on the MOSFET with the included JST connector. Let me know if that helps, or if you're still looking for more information! Thanks!
i found ur channel by luck :) but like ur vids, generally hotend not need to external mosfet but heatbed must, and u must use ferrule connectors too for terminals good work bro keep goin
I know this is an old video but i bought a used i3 mega as my first printer, it was impuls buy. I got about 3 okay prints out of it before the motherboard died i cant get the replacement board anymore but i did see these BTT boards i can upgrade it with but im sot sure what board to get and what else needs to be upgraded for the board to work properly? Or if i should cut my losses and buy a new printer? Considering the cost of the BTT boards plus any other upgrades because my i3 is all stock.
Did you happen to measure DB before and after? I am thinking of doung some silent upgrades but I am trying to find what is the actuall level of noise I can get it down to.
Yup! Shouldn’t be any problem there, the Mega S is the same chassis/electronics inside as the non-S counterpart, with the only differences being an upgraded extruded motor and filament hanger. Thanks for asking!
Thanks for asking! The VREF is set using the potentiometer on the TMC2209. You can measure the VREF using a voltmeter on the stepper drivers while the printer is powered on, and you can adjust the VREF with the plastic screwdriver that will likely come with your new TMC2209's. Let me know if that doesn't answer your question. Thanks!
Oh my bad, I misunderstood your question. The equation for VREF would normally be Rated motor current x 8 x Rsense (RSense for TMC2209 is .11Ohm), but I read numerous recommendations online to set the VREF to 0.85 for best results for these specific drivers combined with the Anycubic i3 Mega. Hope that answers your question!
Hi my friend, I received my TMC2209 V.2 , and after reading so many different opinions, I decided to set my Vref to 0.96 and it's perfect. Injected marlin 1.1.9 firmware with TMC2208 setting . Thank you
Thank you very much for the wonderful video could you please explain how do you connect your LED lights to the machine so when you turn the machine on the lights turn on automatically not separate thanks
The type of LED I used require a data signal in order to set their color, which means I needed a micro controller of some sort to control them. In this case, I used the Raspberry Pi, which takes a bit to boot up once it get power. If you want it to be faster, you could go with a different strip that is only one color, and connect it straight to the printers power and it will turn on immediately, or you could go with a faster microcontroller like an Arduino, but you'd have to write that code yourself. Thanks for the comment, I hope that helps!
I'm having a problem with my i3 mega. I've looked everywhere even sent an emails to anycubic. It keeps layer shifting on the y-axis. I've done tmc2208's, flipped pinout, new and much larger 120mm cooling fan, mosfets, new belt, stepper, made a tensioner, external power supply with 90mm fan, flashed marlin 2.0 several times. Done just about everything, including different slicers and print speeds, yet it still shifts. Maybe I can get an answer here?
Great video, just what I was looking for. But I have a question: how does the 3d printer know (after upgrade to tmc 2209) that it has new drivers and it needs to send 16 times more step pulses to them to travel the same distance as before? Don't we need to change firmware or jumpers? Thank you :)
Thanks for the comment! Without updating the firmware, the printer will use the same steps that it did for the previous stepper drivers, so you won't gain any precision without the firmware upgrade. You have to set 3 pins to HIGH logical voltage in order to tell the drivers to use 256 steps per rotation. Hope that answers your question!
Something I noticed with my printer, and it's the same with yours, (look at 3 minutes in), the bottom plate to me at any rate, is the wrong way around, as the fan that cools the stepper drivers, which is pretty well sat against the bottom plate, has it's intake blocked by said plate, . If you take off the feet, put a 10mm washer over the insert, then refit the feet on that side, you can turn the plate around and fit it so the fan intake isn't blocked. You can't simply rotate the plate, as the middle two fixing screws aren't actually in the centre.
Hi Ratimus This is a late reply but may be useful to some viewers. I'm a retired Avionics Electronics Mechanical Engineer with some experience in thermal management in electronic enclosures. As to the positioning of the openings in the base cover, at first glance your point of view seems to make sense. But let's examine what we can see. It would appear that the vent openings were specifically omitted exactly at the fan location. This is most likely not a coincidence. How does this blockage effect the cooling? Well, with the cover flipped as you suggest, the fan would pull air directly from under itself and blow air directly up to the motherboard. This would create low pressure under the fan and high pressure above the fan. This high pressure would of course be contained by the motherboard and release out in more or less 360 degrees parallel to the motherboard. We're speaking generally here. Unfortunately what would happen next is that the low pressure below the fan would attract the high pressure above the fan and vice versa as they would both be each others least path of resistance. So for the most part we would be recirculating the air from above the fan and below the fan. Also, we would be heating this recirculating air with the hot components on the motherboard. On the other hand, blocking the openings below the fan forces it to pull laterally from the sides at a higher velocity resulting in the circular push pull cycle of air flow to happen over a larger area allowing this airflow circle to have more contact with non-heated air, improving the cooling efficiency. Again, I'm speaking generally but I hope I've been able to show you that thermal management is more complex than might meet the eye. These things are generally worked out through thermal analysis in simulation software that show airflow and resulting temperatures. From my point of view, seeing those vents blocked directly under the fan indicates to me that in fact some sophisticated thermal management was applied to the design of the bottom cover and my guess is that the cover should be installed just as you found it. Cheers and good printing...
Hey Thomas, thanks for the comment! If you change to TMC2209's you don't need to change the firmware, but you do need to flip the motor connectors since the pin output on the TMC2209's is backwards compared to the stock A4988 drivers. That being said, if you did decide to change the firmware to a newer version of Marlin, there is an option where you can switch with the TMC2209's and NOT flip the motor connectors. Check out my video on that topic if you want to learn more! ruclips.net/video/zprmBmMFHQQ/видео.html
Hi. I am fairly new to these types of components and just trying to understand one part about the driver replacement. Without changing the stepper motor, isn't this like plugging blue ray into a CRT tv (exaggerated comparison obviously)? Would the resolution still not be topped out by the physical configuration of the stepper motor internals? What is the actual max resolution per revolution for these motors? As I said, I am not familiar with these components yet and am working off a basic understanding of how the stepper motors work.
On Trigorilla board there are two power inputs, 5V and 11V, by using the mosfet to bypass the Hotbed energy from the main board should I remove the 11V input cable?
Hi mate awesome video... I have a question for you: Do you know the A12 i3 mega, it looks almost the same of the Anycubic i3 mega but the manufacturer is CTC... Do you recommend this one too??? Thx In advance.
Hey, thanks for the comment! I haven't used that printer before so I can't comment on its quality. If I do get a chance to try it out, I'll let you know! Thanks!
@@ModernHobbyist Do you know if the UART mode can be configured to work with the i3 Mega board? At the very least it would require Marlin 2.0 firmware, but I'm wondering if the hardware is compatible.
Can i pick your brain's buddy, which slicer do you use, and which settings do you use to do the layerlapse on this machine, been banging my head for 6 days trying to get the right sequence of code, to push the button on my mega s and artillery genius. Only just noticed you have it showing in your intro. Cheers just subbed
Hey thanks for the comment! I replaced the stepper motor drivers with TMC2209's which are linked in the description, but I didn't replace the actual stepper motors on the printer. Hope that helps!
I don't think the stock Anicubic firmware support BLtouch, but I know the version of Marlin I installed on mine does, so make sure to check out that video, as well as Dave Ramiro's work on Thingiverse/GitHub. Cheers!
this will be very useful to me =D thanks tho i like using using them Tamiya plugs after meltign them in my airsoft toys with lipos , i'll stick with the XT60/90 types for better connection and amp load handling and from what you say the hot ends and beds do just that
Don´t get the thing about the PSU Unit.. I have a i3 mega s, a pro and a Chiron... All of them in Enclosure (YES, the one for chiron is CRAZY BIG)...But i Print ABS and ASA in there, and still run my fan and the room never get´s over 35 C... The power PSU i rated to 40 C, Soo and i missing something? Kind regard from Denmark.. And great videos
Great info. Was wondering is it nessesary to swap the plugs on the motherboard? Looked at a Marlin update saying the software does it. I have no idea :/
Hey thanks for the comment! The Marlin that I ended up installing on my Anycubic came with several options, one for the original drivers, one for new drivers that have been flipped, and one for new drivers that were installed with the original orientation. I installed the new drivers before upgrading to Marlin, so I actually had to flip the connectors, but if you are installing Marlin at the same time, then you choose the version that allows you to not have to flip the connectors. Hope that helps!
@@ModernHobbyist thx=).. Maybe you can help. i installed new drivers all 5 everthing works except the left Z, it only goes up, i have no idea why. Tested other steppers but it does the same thing, changed it back to stock and Z works as it should. Is it the software ? i have no idea on this=( X and Y works and only left Z
im trying to calibrate my eryone tmc 2209 v3 and my voltage is reading 4.60 am i checking the wrong spot on the driver which im checking where driver says to check or is my voltameter set to the wrong spot i got it at 12v dc
Was looking into upgrades for my anycubic i3 mega s, came across your vids an love em. Just wondering as to a suggestion currently for what's involved in this video. Much of it is unavailable as of now. New list?
Yeah I noticed it has gotten really hard to get stuff during the quarantine, but I don't really have specific alternatives in mind. I'd say that most of the products could easily be swapped out for a different brand or company without any issues. You might check Aliexpress for the same products if you aren't worried about shipping time.
@@ModernHobbyist definately harder nowadays. I managed to find a distributor for them so have them en route. Thanks for the vids, keep em going! Seems hard to find legitimate i3 videos that are easy enough to follow and apply the information you do.
A PWM fan gives you the ability to control fan speed. Since the PSU fan is going to be running full speed all the time, the FLX is a better option. The PWM comes with a 3-pin adapter cord which you would then wire to the ground and 12v wire. Long story short, you can use either fan, but the FLX is easier to wire and will perform the same on this printer.
I'm not happy that the motherboard is inside the box either, but from what I've read, motherboards aren't nearly as heat sensitive as the PSU's, so for now I'm ok with it. For a while I was thinking of constructing an external box for all of that stuff, but to be honest I was to nervous and I couldn't wait to start printing!
HI I bought anycubic mega s and was going to upgrade TMC2208 , TMC2209 reading the description it replaces 2208 is that correct so go this the 2209 do you agree ??
hi! I am going to update my Mega S also and I was looking for TMC 2208 however I've learned that TMC 2209 has sensorless homing. In fact what does is the advantage of this? It is possible to use this with stock firmware? I am newbie on this.. sorry.
Hey Guilherme, thanks for the comment! I am not super familiar with that feature, but from what I have read, it can detect when the stepper motor is experiencing higher than normal resistance, i.e. it has hit the end of its range of motion. However, I don't know if the stock Anycubic firmware or the special version of Marlin I installed on mine accounts for this. I'll have to get back to you on that. In the meantime, keep leaving great comments for me to think about!
When watching reviews you would say - hey its great printer. After stumbling upon your video, well, you think that thing is dangerous in stock version LOL
Hey thanks for the comment! While I did make several updates, the printer works great out of the box. Most of the updates I made were attempts to make it quieter due to the layout of my apartment, with the exception of the power supply removal. I removed the power supply to keep it from overheating while inside the enclosure printing with ABS. All in all though, this printer would be a great option for people that are new to 3d printing, or are looking for a cheap addition to their print farm. Thanks again for the comment, I hope you enjoyed my video nonetheless!
@@ModernHobbyist I got your point. Maybe you can accept suggestion to point out in future videos that some upgrades are made for increasing overall performance that are welcomed by advanced users. From your video I really got impression that printer is dangerous out of the box.
Hey Travis, thanks for the comment! I recently upgraded to Dave Ramiro's Marlin 2.0 firmware and it has been successful on the Mega, but I'm not sure how the Mega S differs mechanically.
You installed TMC2209 drivers but made no firmware changes. How is that supposed to work? I just upgraded an Ender 3 to a BTT SKR Mini board and had to modify the Configuration.h file to call out the TMC2209 drivers so the Marlin software would have the info it needs. The software needs to know it can make the 1/256 adjustments vs 1/16 doesn't it?
The stock Anycubic firmware will work with the tmc2209s out of the box as long as you flip the motor connectors. I have since also updated my firmware to a special version of Marlin which accounted for the increased step resolution, but I assume the stock Anycubic firmware uses the default 1/16 resolution.
Hey Noel, thanks for the comment! If you do want to change the stepper drivers, you don't have to change the firmware, but you will need to flip the motor connectors around. This change is super easy and I show how to do that in this video. However, if you do want to change the firmware to Marlin, there is a version that will allow you to update the stepper drivers without flipping the motor connectors. If you are interested in doing that, I outline it in this video: ruclips.net/video/zprmBmMFHQQ/видео.html. Good luck and thanks again!
@@ModernHobbyist Thanks very much - that helped - I intend to change to Marlin, but in the interim I just want to change the drivers and wasn't quite sure whether I needed to change the firmware. All clear now - many thanks.
Hey Jessie, thanks for your comment! You don’t have to make any firmware upgrades to get the new drivers working, but you certainly can! I do have a video covering upgrading my i3 Mega to a newer version of the Marlin firmware that you should check out! If you do the firmware upgrade first you don’t need to flip the stepper motor connectors at all. Cheers!
Hey thanks for the comment! That is in the range of the logic voltage for the TMC2209's so my first thought is that you might be measuring voltage from the wrong contact points. For my drivers, they were closer to 1V to start off and it took several full rotations to get the reference voltage moving down. From there it takes a few tiny adjustments to get to 0.85V. Let me know if that helps!
Thanks for the comment! Unfortunately, I haven't had any luck with that either! I tried to speed up prints once, but with too high an acceleration it slipped on the Y axis.
@@ModernHobbyist yea, for me 3k on travel with low junction deviation is the highest I can go. I'm thinking of trying this one out www.thingiverse.com/thing:1780636
Hey thanks for the comment! The software shown there is the OctoPrint server I have connected to my printer. It definitely is not necessary, but it is nice to have.
I haven't heard that, but my extruder was under extruding by about 7%, so I made a video covering how you can calibrate it by adjusting the steps per millimeter value saved in EEPROM. Thanks for your comment!
@@ModernHobbyist I changed the v to 1.3 on the E0 stepper and everything has resolved. Thanks for your videos, they are great. Already done the claibrations, mine was under extruding a whole 10mm!!! Just updating the fans now 😁
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WOW!!! My first update is the TMC 2209 V3.0 and while it is printing I had to come here and comment!!! It a new printer the best purchase ever (so far kk). Incredible noise reduction and the new sound will be like music to your hear. Great channel keep posting and getting new subscribers. Just additional comment I used Vref to all 0.9V works fine.
Glad to hear that! Thanks for the comment!
thank you so much for this. Just finished replacing steppers, stepper fan, hot end fan, power supply fan.. all in about 45 minutes. Only difference from your instructions is
grd to vref is actually the little copper pad not the pin on the 2209 stepper
the Mega X does in fact have a seperate mosfet so bed power is not connected directly to motherboard any longer.
Thanks for the comment! It's good to see that Anycubic seems to finally be addressing these issues! Also, thanks for the heads on the 2209's!
Thank you for adding these comments I just tried to do the 2209 stepper motor upgrade and I can't get my machine to work 🤦🏻 I was getting frustrated but then read your comment and I think realized what some of my mistakes are I probably need to put the mosfets back to stock cuz after following this video I'm having trouble with my hot bed and hot and both are increasing in temperature but are not having any temperature readouts through the screen. I also am not able to get any of my motors to work when I turn it on and try to get them to go back to home positions
DISCLAIMER(on behalf of Modern Hobbyist) = Modern hobbyist is obviously a experience user with electronics, if you are new to electronics - don't mess with upgrading the fan on the power supply unit. Even turned off, (those black looking silos) capacitors can take hours sometimes days to discharge, there is a risk of a very painful electric shock(see that bright yellow CAUTION sticker), even burns are possible. Always use a insulated screwdriver and an anti-static strap if you are going to attempt to upgrade the fan of your power supply unit. That being said, excellent video!
Thanks for the comment! I agree, some of these updates aren't for the faint-hearted, but I definitely encourage everyone to get out there and try new things! Great advice though, I appreciate it!
I would love a more detailed babied tutorial on installing the Mosfets because I’m a bit special 😂
Yes please
How much for the upgrade kit ,your selling?
Great video well worth the effort to change to the stepper drivers. I installed the everyone 2209 v3 and all I can hear are the fans. Much appreciated for the instructions.
Thanks for the comment, glad it helped!
Did it improve your print quality?
Well you just got a sub. Just got 2 of these printers from my brother and immediately noticed how loud they were compared to my other printer. Thank you for doing this video. Really amazing.
Thanks for the comment and thanks for the sub!
You are a legend !! I swear the the step driver change to tmc2209 for my mega x , made my printer feel like a stealthy ninja 🥺🥺🥺 you are amazing thank you !!!!
Thanks so much for the comment! You literally made my Sunday, glad I could help!
I know this is an old comment, but did you switch every plug around or just some? I have a Mega X and these stepper drivers too and don't want to mess anything up. Thanks
I Advice every owner of an Anycubic i3 Mega to do the stepper motor driver upgrade. Even with no expirience in electronics it's not that hard to do but it makes a huge difference in the noice coming from the motors.
Thanks for the comment! I 100% agree.
Thank you for this excellent video. I have recently received a Mega S (my first 3d printer) and will try these upgrades over time, after getting used to the printer.
Thanks for the comment, good luck!
I knew a step controller upgrade would make it quieter (which I don't care about) but I didn't know it would increase precision. Thanks for the vid.
Thanks for the comment!
I'm pretty sure it only can increase precision if the stepper is set to run higher than 1/16th. Wouldn't you need to tweak the firmware for this?
Is all these upgrade also apply to Mega X? Especially the fans size
The idea about keep the power source out of the heated chamber is great and I was thinking about that for a while, just finish my printer box and apply this idea...great solution to keep the power source cool, next will be to design a cooling duct from the bottom of the box to use external fresh air to cool the steppers
Thanks for the comment! I do hope to implement something like that in my next enclosure build, the hard part would be making sure the fresh air doesn't affect print quality. Thanks!
@@ModernHobbyist to avoid that I was thinking to create a duct to suck the outside air blow over the drivers and blow out of the box, the airflow can pass thru the grill area from RIght to the left side of the printer. (grill area just below the SD card reader and Ethernet port)
Thanks, Charlie for the videos! I appreciate them. I did the stepper upgrade and it worked amazing. I tend to be a paint by number guy on this stuff with electronics as it's new to me. So little things that are not mentioned leave me "blocked". Like the fact that the second stepper motor in from the right the wires are reversed and not with the black in the flip position. I wondered what that would do but saw another video where it was just flipped and left with blue facing in the upside-down position. I know it's hard to do videos that cover EVERYTHING. I was wondering if you had done three separate videos for each and slowed down a bit with a video that showed the exact connections it would help. I have the MOSFETs on my desk ready to go but the video leaves out a lot of the step by step, and I am nervous about what is "next". I have the new fan too but I think that will be fine. Thanks again! I will follow with interest and grateful that you are doing these!
Thanks for the comment Jeff! I believe in the video, I just recorded before I had flipped all the connectors, so some of them appear in the original orientation. I don't have a video of the MOSFET process by itself, but I'll check around to see if someone else has made a video specifically on that topic. Thanks again for the comment, glad you enjoyed watching!
Great video, definitely helped me when I was upgrading my i3 Mega. One thing I would say, when you were saying how the TMC2209s have microstepping up to 1/256. While this is true, I do believe that this is only when you connect them in UART mode. When you use them or the 2208s in Legacy mode, like you demonstrated here, I believe that they only have a 1/16 microstepping resolution still. But still a great video!
Thanks for the comment and the information! I wasn't aware of how they were being used in the i3 Mega, so that is incredibly helpful knowledge to have! Thanks!
Is there simple tutorial how to connect it in UART mode?
Great video. But as a electic noobie, you could add a little more detail . for example what to put my multimeter on? 0.85 voltage is 0.85volts? i kept googling stuff because i coulnt keep up^^ i saw the factory voltage is 1,2V, would that even make a huge difference to go down to 0.85?
Really interesting video, well done. I've been following you on Instagram and I'm glad you're starting to make videos. Good job!
Thank you!
Completed the TMC2209 exchange today with help from this video! Thank you!.
I would love to see a video explaining in detail the integration with the Raspberry Pi and a full walk through of setting it up with Octoprint.
As a compelte noob to 3D printing, it would be a great help! :D
Thanks for the comment, I'll do that!
Nice video. I'm planning to DIY an enclosure for my Anycubic Kobra (standard), but I'm not sure how to deal with the power supply and how to detect and reroute it to the printer. Do you have any information on how to approach this? Every answer is appreciated.
7:57 "connected the two mosfets together on the same extension cord" could you elaborate on this? I'm not sure if you have it on your site, I'm not seeing a write up anywhere, I think the link to github is broken.
yes, I was wondering this too... following.
Here is a video of this double connection. Since buddy never replies.
ruclips.net/video/Ol6QecdYUw0/видео.html
@@MBern-pg7ro thank you bro
in the video you showed pin 1 being Vref but when i got mine(through your link because why not) i found out you have to messure through the little hole that has a copper pad thats right by it.
thanks for all the good upgrade info. do you have another mosfet upgrade for this printer you prefer? or perhaps for the anycubic mega s?
Outstanding video. Thanks for sharing. This was my first visit to your channel and l am now a subscriber.
Thanks for the comment and welcome aboard!
Really interesting stuff. Love my Mega S and definitely am interested in the power supply and stepper upgrades. I probably won't be building an enclosure since I print in the basement, so I was wondering: Will the modified PSU enclosure still fit back in the base of the Mega if I didn't want to house it externally?
Thanks for the comment! I'm not positive if it would fit back in the enclosure, it might be a bit of a squeeze. You might want to check Thingiverse for alternative covers that are intended to be placed back in the body of the printer. I'm sure there are other people out there like you that just want to upgrade the fan, so it's worth a shot!
Awesome video, can’t wait to see more content in the future
Appreciate it!
One of the best subscriptions I have.
Hey Michael, thanks for the sub! I appreciate it!
@@ModernHobbyist No problem. I've been wanting to improve my i3 mega and make an enclosure. I would say that the mic breaks and makes an unpleasant sound. However, your video's are professional with more info than hype. It has high quality and gets to the point, while giving sufficient details. Thank you.
pleas keep up with the good videos it really helps
Thanks for the kind words!
Just as a side note, drop-in replacement with TMC2208 or 2209s cannot fully utilize their 1/256 microstepping. I think it only does 1/32 automatically. You have to configure the 2209s in UART mode to make use of the full microstepping.
Thanks for the tip! I wasn't aware of this!
@@ModernHobbyist Yeah it's actually 1/16 microstepping with 1/256 interpolation (ruclips.net/video/7VHwcEroHPk/видео.html). You have to go into UART mode to get native 1/256 microstepping, but this requires a lot more configuration.
Great video. Provided me with great info for upgrading my Max S. I am wondering, as I'm new to 3D printing, is upgrading the mobo to a 32-bit worth it? What benefits would I get by doing so, if it's worth doing?
Thanks!
Hey Brian, thanks for the comment! I haven't thought about before, but now I might have to look into it as a future project. I'll try to let you know how it goes!
I'm just getting ready to replace the steppers on my i3 mega wish me luck
Hey awesome video, I am going to be upgrading my i3 mega soon and just want to ask what's the difference between the 2209 and 2208?
Ultimately, the TMC2208's will probably provide you with more than enough functionality. There are some differences:
TMC2209 - 2.0A current rating, sensorless homing, and lower heat output (cooler operation).
TMC2208 - 1.5A current rating, slightly warmer operation (but still good).
The sensorless homing would be the biggest difference, but the i3 mega already has endstops, so this feature is redundant on most current 3d printers.
Hope this helps!
Thanks for the video. Great info. Just one recommendation: your audio signal is way too hot and clips a ton. Better dial your mic/amp or effect chain a bit down and have a clean signal.
Thanks for the tip! I have a new mic now (not to mention I learn new things about content creation everyday) so hopefully future videos are better. Cheers!
Thanks for the video, so keep the same steper motors but just change the drivers? I assume it should be the same for my Anycubic mega pro, which i have? I am having a few issues with mine and i think the main board has just died.
I am going to buy a Prusa but keep the mega pro and do mods like this. Mods do chew your time but its also how you get the best hands on experience.
Love the channelamd looking for advice, I'm getting major fluctuations on hot end temp. I've replaced and tuned still no joy. I think it could be my power pack. Is there one you would recommend replacing it with please. I'm pretty novice when it comes to wiring and soldering so atx conversion is a big no.
I've done steppers, added bl touch, fans and added raspberry just as FYI.
I really appreciate it.
I now have three Mega S's and will most likely do this mod to at least one of them because its just so darn cool. Wonderful job! When ordering parts I need to buy 4x TMC2209 Stepper Motor Drivers correct? Also the 3d Printer HotBed MOSFET comes in a pack of two, is that enough as it wasn't totally clear to me? I just want to be certain before I order my parts. Thank you for posting this, now I must go look at your other videos.
Thanks for the comment! For the TMC2209, you will need 5 pieces. You should be able to find packs of 5 on Amazon or Aliexpress no problem. For the MOSFETs, you'll need two total. One for the Hotbed and one for the Hotend. Hope that helps!
Hi, can these upgrades apply to the Mega S? Thanks Ray
Thanks for the video. Should I change only one driver chip on the motherboard or all of them?
Thanks for the comment! I would recommend changing all of them if you are going to change any. Hope that helps!
Love your videos! I've seen others do a similar thing, but they bend pins 3,4,5, and 7 out of the way on the blue side then add a wire to the board to enable Uart mode. Would there be an advantage to that or best left as it is in the standard mode?
Thank you! Interesting 🤔 I haven't seen that, but I may do some more tinkering with this printer now that I have some backups!
Apart from the noise reduction, does the stepper upgrade help with the print quality at all? Great video btw!!
Hi, I installed on my Anycubic i3 Mega (not S) drivers TMC2209 v3.1 and my printer stopped printing, everything works, everything moves, but the plastic stopped sticking to the table .... Now I don't know what to do ... Help if you know the solution to this problems. Thanks
Hi Charlie, I realize it's been a year but I saw your video & ordered s2209s for mine. when I received them I noticed they weren't ver 3.0 like yours, they are ver 3.1 & while the pinout is almost identical, they're not. tx & rx are reversed and one called cx is added. I stopped the install, wanting to make sure before proceeding. if you would, please advise me on this issue, and thank you in advance.
Hey Charlie. Thanks for all the content. It really is extremely helpfull. I have decided to go through with most of these upgrades. At least the stepper drivers and hotend fan upgrades. I will probably wait on the Mosfet since I don't plan to print with ABS yet. But my biggest challenges have been with bed adhesion and first layer quality. Would upgrading the stepper drivers help with that? I have flashed Marlin firmware and have gone through the mesh leveling several times. Calibrated the E steps more than once. It seems like the mesh leveling tweaks are diferent every time. Is it possible I have a warped bed?
Thanks for the comment, I'll repeat what I mentioned in your email just in case others have the same issues as you:
1. Try re-leveling the bed with some paper so it is just scratching the nozzle
2. Increase bed temp and nozzle temp for the initial layers on the print
3. Slow the initial layers waaaaay down (~15mm/s). This was a huge help for me.
4. Move parts away from known low spots on your bed in your slicer. I print small parts towards the front of my print bed, just to be safe.
Thanks again for the comment and the email, hope that helps!
nice video, but you´re missing one thing. If you change your steppers you also have to change the firmware ;)
Hey Julian, thanks for your comment! The pinout on the TMC2208 (and 09) is slightly different than the A4988 drivers that come stock with this printer, but you can get around this without changing the firmware if you flip the motor connectors 180 degrees. You are correct though, if you don't want to flip the connectors, than switching firmware will also work.
Hi, great video..really great job ... I replaced also my stepper drivers but after that my printings started to shift the layers ... I'm using Marling updated ... Do you know or have any idea what could be?
Turns the pots up a bit on the steppers that skip.
I do highly discourage to modify the power supply as shown here. Power supplies use metal casings for a reason: shielding. That's why the cases do have a direct connection to ground, so in case of a loose cable/shortage/whatever the fuse of your electric installation is triggered. Additionally the casing is fully closed to ensure a certain air flow over all the componentes. The shown replacement has a grid structure instead, which will decrease the air flow and especially if the printer resides in a housing probably results in higher temperatures.
Great video by the way and I appreciate the hard work you are doing, I have seen certain setups where they bypass power to the main board through the Mosfet so that you are saving an output from the power supply perhaps, not sure if there are any spare outputs on this PSU as I have only just bought the Mega S, I know you have a dual Mosfet setup one for hot end and for the heat bed and it makes sense to have direct power supply from the PSU. Do you have you own wiring diagram for your setup at all?
Thanks for the comment!
I don't have a schematic written down, but the Mega S should have the exact same PSU as the Mega (non S). The PSU just connects to the input on both MOSFET's, and the Hotbed and Hotend are connected to the output ports on each respective MOSFET. Then the motherboard port that previously powered the hotbed and hotend is connected to the signal input on the MOSFET with the included JST connector.
Let me know if that helps, or if you're still looking for more information!
Thanks!
Just curious... If we removed all of the electronics and heated the enclosure, could we print some exotic plastics like peek, nylon and teflón?
i found ur channel by luck :) but like ur vids, generally hotend not need to external mosfet but heatbed must, and u must use ferrule connectors too for terminals good work bro keep goin
Thanks for the feedback! I appreciate it!
I know this is an old video but i bought a used i3 mega as my first printer, it was impuls buy.
I got about 3 okay prints out of it before the motherboard died i cant get the replacement board anymore but i did see these BTT boards i can upgrade it with but im sot sure what board to get and what else needs to be upgraded for the board to work properly? Or if i should cut my losses and buy a new printer? Considering the cost of the BTT boards plus any other upgrades because my i3 is all stock.
Did you happen to measure DB before and after? I am thinking of doung some silent upgrades but I am trying to find what is the actuall level of noise I can get it down to.
Do you have any similar advice on upgrades for the Mega Pro 4th generation?
Hi Nice video👍do you now is the TMS 2209 also fit on the anycubic mega S,
Yup! Shouldn’t be any problem there, the Mega S is the same chassis/electronics inside as the non-S counterpart, with the only differences being an upgraded extruded motor and filament hanger. Thanks for asking!
so do you adjust your Cura settings to allow 256 steps. otherwise, arent you still stepping 1/16
Hey, great video. Thanks for it.
How are you define the Vref for TMC2209 ?
I want to purschase the same for my AI3M.
Thanks a lot 😉
Thanks for asking!
The VREF is set using the potentiometer on the TMC2209. You can measure the VREF using a voltmeter on the stepper drivers while the printer is powered on, and you can adjust the VREF with the plastic screwdriver that will likely come with your new TMC2209's.
Let me know if that doesn't answer your question. Thanks!
@@ModernHobbyist Thanks for your answer, but how do you calcul the vref value ?
Oh my bad, I misunderstood your question. The equation for VREF would normally be Rated motor current x 8 x Rsense (RSense for TMC2209 is .11Ohm), but I read numerous recommendations online to set the VREF to 0.85 for best results for these specific drivers combined with the Anycubic i3 Mega.
Hope that answers your question!
Hi my friend,
I received my TMC2209 V.2 , and after reading so many different opinions, I decided to set my Vref to 0.96 and it's perfect. Injected marlin 1.1.9 firmware with TMC2208 setting . Thank you
@@Black-Dragon34 Perfect! Glad you got that working for you!
Thank you very much for the wonderful video could you please explain how do you connect your LED lights to the machine so when you turn the machine on the lights turn on automatically not separate thanks
The type of LED I used require a data signal in order to set their color, which means I needed a micro controller of some sort to control them. In this case, I used the Raspberry Pi, which takes a bit to boot up once it get power. If you want it to be faster, you could go with a different strip that is only one color, and connect it straight to the printers power and it will turn on immediately, or you could go with a faster microcontroller like an Arduino, but you'd have to write that code yourself. Thanks for the comment, I hope that helps!
I'm having a problem with my i3 mega. I've looked everywhere even sent an emails to anycubic. It keeps layer shifting on the y-axis. I've done tmc2208's, flipped pinout, new and much larger 120mm cooling fan, mosfets, new belt, stepper, made a tensioner, external power supply with 90mm fan, flashed marlin 2.0 several times. Done just about everything, including different slicers and print speeds, yet it still shifts. Maybe I can get an answer here?
Great video, just what I was looking for. But I have a question: how does the 3d printer know (after upgrade to tmc 2209) that it has new drivers and it needs to send 16 times more step pulses to them to travel the same distance as before? Don't we need to change firmware or jumpers? Thank you :)
Thanks for the comment! Without updating the firmware, the printer will use the same steps that it did for the previous stepper drivers, so you won't gain any precision without the firmware upgrade. You have to set 3 pins to HIGH logical voltage in order to tell the drivers to use 256 steps per rotation. Hope that answers your question!
Something I noticed with my printer, and it's the same with yours, (look at 3 minutes in), the bottom plate to me at any rate, is the wrong way around, as the fan that cools the stepper drivers, which is pretty well sat against the bottom plate, has it's intake blocked by said plate, . If you take off the feet, put a 10mm washer over the insert, then refit the feet on that side, you can turn the plate around and fit it so the fan intake isn't blocked. You can't simply rotate the plate, as the middle two fixing screws aren't actually in the centre.
Hi Ratimus
This is a late reply but may be useful to some viewers. I'm a retired Avionics Electronics Mechanical Engineer with some experience in thermal management in electronic enclosures. As to the positioning of the openings in the base cover, at first glance your point of view seems to make sense. But let's examine what we can see. It would appear that the vent openings were specifically omitted exactly at the fan location. This is most likely not a coincidence. How does this blockage effect the cooling? Well, with the cover flipped as you suggest, the fan would pull air directly from under itself and blow air directly up to the motherboard. This would create low pressure under the fan and high pressure above the fan. This high pressure would of course be contained by the motherboard and release out in more or less 360 degrees parallel to the motherboard. We're speaking generally here. Unfortunately what would happen next is that the low pressure below the fan would attract the high pressure above the fan and vice versa as they would both be each others least path of resistance. So for the most part we would be recirculating the air from above the fan and below the fan. Also, we would be heating this recirculating air with the hot components on the motherboard. On the other hand, blocking the openings below the fan forces it to pull laterally from the sides at a higher velocity resulting in the circular push pull cycle of air flow to happen over a larger area allowing this airflow circle to have more contact with non-heated air, improving the cooling efficiency. Again, I'm speaking generally but I hope I've been able to show you that thermal management is more complex than might meet the eye. These things are generally worked out through thermal analysis in simulation software that show airflow and resulting temperatures. From my point of view, seeing those vents blocked directly under the fan indicates to me that in fact some sophisticated thermal management was applied to the design of the bottom cover and my guess is that the cover should be installed just as you found it.
Cheers and good printing...
Hi. If I just change the stepper drivers to tmc2209, do I need to change the firmware? Thanks for the awesome video!
Hey Thomas, thanks for the comment! If you change to TMC2209's you don't need to change the firmware, but you do need to flip the motor connectors since the pin output on the TMC2209's is backwards compared to the stock A4988 drivers. That being said, if you did decide to change the firmware to a newer version of Marlin, there is an option where you can switch with the TMC2209's and NOT flip the motor connectors. Check out my video on that topic if you want to learn more! ruclips.net/video/zprmBmMFHQQ/видео.html
Hi. I am fairly new to these types of components and just trying to understand one part about the driver replacement. Without changing the stepper motor, isn't this like plugging blue ray into a CRT tv (exaggerated comparison obviously)? Would the resolution still not be topped out by the physical configuration of the stepper motor internals? What is the actual max resolution per revolution for these motors? As I said, I am not familiar with these components yet and am working off a basic understanding of how the stepper motors work.
On Trigorilla board there are two power inputs, 5V and 11V, by using the mosfet to bypass the Hotbed energy from the main board should I remove the 11V input cable?
ottimo lavoro!
Hi mate awesome video... I have a question for you: Do you know the A12 i3 mega, it looks almost the same of the Anycubic i3 mega but the manufacturer is CTC... Do you recommend this one too??? Thx In advance.
Hey, thanks for the comment!
I haven't used that printer before so I can't comment on its quality. If I do get a chance to try it out, I'll let you know!
Thanks!
Do you have a video for replacing the driver and hotend fans?
Great video, but did you have to change your firmware in order to use the TMC2209s?
Thanks for the comment! Nope, as long as you flip the motor connectors on the motherboard, the TMC2209s will work great with the stock firmware!
@@ModernHobbyist Do you know if the UART mode can be configured to work with the i3 Mega board? At the very least it would require Marlin 2.0 firmware, but I'm wondering if the hardware is compatible.
That's a good question, I'm afraid I haven't looked into that, but I'll check back here if I do!
Can i pick your brain's buddy, which slicer do you use, and which settings do you use to do the layerlapse on this machine, been banging my head for 6 days trying to get the right sequence of code, to push the button on my mega s and artillery genius. Only just noticed you have it showing in your intro.
Cheers just subbed
Thanks for the comment! I use Cura to slice my files, which settings are you wondering about for the time-lapse?
Out of pure curiosity what's stepper Motors would you use to replace the stock ones on the printer? Or do you find at the stock Motors are sufficient.
Hey thanks for the comment! I replaced the stepper motor drivers with TMC2209's which are linked in the description, but I didn't replace the actual stepper motors on the printer. Hope that helps!
Great video thanks! One thing I wanted to do on my Mega S is to install a BLtouch sensor but not sure if the motherboard supports it.
I don't think the stock Anicubic firmware support BLtouch, but I know the version of Marlin I installed on mine does, so make sure to check out that video, as well as Dave Ramiro's work on Thingiverse/GitHub. Cheers!
this will be very useful to me =D thanks tho i like using using them Tamiya plugs after meltign them in my airsoft toys with lipos , i'll stick with the XT60/90 types for better connection and amp load handling and from what you say the hot ends and beds do just that
Don´t get the thing about the PSU Unit.. I have a i3 mega s, a pro and a Chiron... All of them in Enclosure (YES, the one for chiron is CRAZY BIG)...But i Print ABS and ASA in there, and still run my fan and the room never get´s over 35 C... The power PSU i rated to 40 C, Soo and i missing something? Kind regard from Denmark.. And great videos
Great info. Was wondering is it nessesary to swap the plugs on the motherboard? Looked at a Marlin update saying the software does it. I have no idea :/
Hey thanks for the comment! The Marlin that I ended up installing on my Anycubic came with several options, one for the original drivers, one for new drivers that have been flipped, and one for new drivers that were installed with the original orientation. I installed the new drivers before upgrading to Marlin, so I actually had to flip the connectors, but if you are installing Marlin at the same time, then you choose the version that allows you to not have to flip the connectors. Hope that helps!
@@ModernHobbyist thx=).. Maybe you can help. i installed new drivers all 5 everthing works except the left Z, it only goes up, i have no idea why. Tested other steppers but it does the same thing, changed it back to stock and Z works as it should. Is it the software ? i have no idea on this=( X and Y works and only left Z
what is the foam you used inside the walls of your enclosure?
Have you looked at the polymer bearings? I seen a guy do them
which kind of material do i need for the supply printing parts?
im trying to calibrate my eryone tmc 2209 v3 and my voltage is reading 4.60 am i checking the wrong spot on the driver which im checking where driver says to check or is my voltameter set to the wrong spot i got it at 12v dc
Was looking into upgrades for my anycubic i3 mega s, came across your vids an love em. Just wondering as to a suggestion currently for what's involved in this video. Much of it is unavailable as of now. New list?
Hey thanks for the comment! Are you saying that the items I linked to are out of stock right now?
@@ModernHobbyist yea a few of the items say unavailable so wasnt sure if you had other options in the meantime that would be a good alternate.
Yeah I noticed it has gotten really hard to get stuff during the quarantine, but I don't really have specific alternatives in mind. I'd say that most of the products could easily be swapped out for a different brand or company without any issues. You might check Aliexpress for the same products if you aren't worried about shipping time.
@@ModernHobbyist definately harder nowadays. I managed to find a distributor for them so have them en route. Thanks for the vids, keep em going! Seems hard to find legitimate i3 videos that are easy enough to follow and apply the information you do.
Thanks so much for the kind words! Glad I can help!
For the power supply fan can i use "Noctua NF-A6x25 PWM, 4-Pin" instead?
A PWM fan gives you the ability to control fan speed. Since the PSU fan is going to be running full speed all the time, the FLX is a better option. The PWM comes with a 3-pin adapter cord which you would then wire to the ground and 12v wire. Long story short, you can use either fan, but the FLX is easier to wire and will perform the same on this printer.
@@wonkyweasel8922 do i have the design for power supply put it outside for Mega X?
@@everfreeeeee For that I am not sure. I just know that you can use either the PWM or the FLX Noctua fan for the power supply on a Mega (S).
A great and helpfull video, Thank you!!!!
Thanks for the comment, glad I could help!
motherboard is ok with be in box? u suppose, that it will be good to be outside like PSU... I have same printer and looking for make a box...
I'm not happy that the motherboard is inside the box either, but from what I've read, motherboards aren't nearly as heat sensitive as the PSU's, so for now I'm ok with it. For a while I was thinking of constructing an external box for all of that stuff, but to be honest I was to nervous and I couldn't wait to start printing!
I have a Mega X and I did all the upgrades you did, now my prints are backwards. Is there a way to change this or did I screw the poooch????
HI I bought anycubic mega s and was going to upgrade TMC2208 , TMC2209 reading the description it replaces 2208 is that correct so go this the 2209 do you agree ??
Thanks for the comment! I installed 2209's in my printer, and it works!
hi! I am going to update my Mega S also and I was looking for TMC 2208 however I've learned that TMC 2209 has sensorless homing. In fact what does is the advantage of this? It is possible to use this with stock firmware? I am newbie on this.. sorry.
Hey Guilherme, thanks for the comment! I am not super familiar with that feature, but from what I have read, it can detect when the stepper motor is experiencing higher than normal resistance, i.e. it has hit the end of its range of motion. However, I don't know if the stock Anycubic firmware or the special version of Marlin I installed on mine accounts for this. I'll have to get back to you on that. In the meantime, keep leaving great comments for me to think about!
I've been informed that the MOSFET only last around 6 to 8 months is this true ?
Great video !
Thank you!
do you know what the stock power supply fan thickness is
When watching reviews you would say - hey its great printer. After stumbling upon your video, well, you think that thing is dangerous in stock version LOL
Hey thanks for the comment! While I did make several updates, the printer works great out of the box. Most of the updates I made were attempts to make it quieter due to the layout of my apartment, with the exception of the power supply removal. I removed the power supply to keep it from overheating while inside the enclosure printing with ABS. All in all though, this printer would be a great option for people that are new to 3d printing, or are looking for a cheap addition to their print farm. Thanks again for the comment, I hope you enjoyed my video nonetheless!
@@ModernHobbyist I got your point. Maybe you can accept suggestion to point out in future videos that some upgrades are made for increasing overall performance that are welcomed by advanced users. From your video I really got impression that printer is dangerous out of the box.
Absolutely! Thanks for the feedback, I really appreciate it!
Wondering what firmware you ended up running with this have a mega s that I've thought about updating the drivers for a whilem
Hey Travis, thanks for the comment! I recently upgraded to Dave Ramiro's Marlin 2.0 firmware and it has been successful on the Mega, but I'm not sure how the Mega S differs mechanically.
You installed TMC2209 drivers but made no firmware changes. How is that supposed to work? I just upgraded an Ender 3 to a BTT SKR Mini board and had to modify the Configuration.h file to call out the TMC2209 drivers so the Marlin software would have the info it needs. The software needs to know it can make the 1/256 adjustments vs 1/16 doesn't it?
The stock Anycubic firmware will work with the tmc2209s out of the box as long as you flip the motor connectors. I have since also updated my firmware to a special version of Marlin which accounted for the increased step resolution, but I assume the stock Anycubic firmware uses the default 1/16 resolution.
Hi Guys. Just a small question. If I change my drivers to TMC2209's do I have to change anything in the firmware? e.g. upgrade to Marlin, etc.
Hey Noel, thanks for the comment! If you do want to change the stepper drivers, you don't have to change the firmware, but you will need to flip the motor connectors around. This change is super easy and I show how to do that in this video. However, if you do want to change the firmware to Marlin, there is a version that will allow you to update the stepper drivers without flipping the motor connectors. If you are interested in doing that, I outline it in this video: ruclips.net/video/zprmBmMFHQQ/видео.html.
Good luck and thanks again!
@@ModernHobbyist Thanks very much - that helped - I intend to change to Marlin, but in the interim I just want to change the drivers and wasn't quite sure whether I needed to change the firmware. All clear now - many thanks.
Dope, thanks!
Thanks!
Hi, do u have to do anything on the firmware when upgrading the stepper drivers?
Hey Jessie, thanks for your comment! You don’t have to make any firmware upgrades to get the new drivers working, but you certainly can! I do have a video covering upgrading my i3 Mega to a newer version of the Marlin firmware that you should check out! If you do the firmware upgrade first you don’t need to flip the stepper motor connectors at all. Cheers!
My vref measurements on the TMC2209 is 4.85V (DC) no matter how I spin the potentiometer. Same for all 5. Any clue what is going on?
Hey thanks for the comment! That is in the range of the logic voltage for the TMC2209's so my first thought is that you might be measuring voltage from the wrong contact points. For my drivers, they were closer to 1V to start off and it took several full rotations to get the reference voltage moving down. From there it takes a few tiny adjustments to get to 0.85V. Let me know if that helps!
@@ModernHobbyist Yup, there was another voltage point next to what was labeled Vref on the TMC2209 that I have. That did the trick. Thank you!
will the tmc2208 v 1.2 work?
Any advice on Y belt tensioning?
I printed a tensioner but it causes belt veering and rubbing.
Thanks for the comment! Unfortunately, I haven't had any luck with that either! I tried to speed up prints once, but with too high an acceleration it slipped on the Y axis.
@@ModernHobbyist yea, for me 3k on travel with low junction deviation is the highest I can go.
I'm thinking of trying this one out www.thingiverse.com/thing:1780636
What software is that at 5:29 where you can see the temperature graph like that? Is that important?
Hey thanks for the comment! The software shown there is the OctoPrint server I have connected to my printer. It definitely is not necessary, but it is nice to have.
I read that you need to set the extruder stepper to 1.5v to stop the extruder clicking and under extruding. Can you confirm this is the case?
I haven't heard that, but my extruder was under extruding by about 7%, so I made a video covering how you can calibrate it by adjusting the steps per millimeter value saved in EEPROM. Thanks for your comment!
@@ModernHobbyist I changed the v to 1.3 on the E0 stepper and everything has resolved. Thanks for your videos, they are great. Already done the claibrations, mine was under extruding a whole 10mm!!! Just updating the fans now 😁
It was asked a few times in the comments (never answered). Will this (all) work on the Mega X?
Considering he doesn't have a Mega X, why would you expect him to know?
I have the mega pro are the same??
🇧🇷🇺🇲Boa noite faz um vídeo de como voce fez esse case ??
thank you very interesting video.
Thanks for the comment, glad you enjoyed it!
2209s work ok on 12v?