The good thing, I found turning green,, is that it gave me the opportunity to practice different angles with the tool and also just how big a cut that I could take. I never bothered about the finish except to get it a bit decent. Roughing the inside out too and leaving the wall thickness to at least 10% of the diameter but often quite a bit thicker than that. Storing my first turned dated bowls in a unheated shed for at least 2 years often yielded many without cracking. Just a few months before I am to finish turning I bring the bowls inside to allow them to climatise I am still turning bowls dated in 2009. The best tool that I bought after years of turning was a Moisture Meter $30 from Amazon. Great investment.
Hey Kent, Let me share something I (never seen anyone else so maybe I invented something LOL) made to use with face plate.Take any suitable piece of scrap, turn a dowel about 6" long and of diameter to just fit easily through center hole of face plate. drive a screw into the center of one end, cut off with apprx 1/2" protruding. then grind to a point. Now after you mark center on your blank drive that point into your mark, then you can slide your face plate over it. This does two things it helps prevent the screw torque you mentioned but more importantly if you find the need to re-attach your face plate after you've removed it is simple and exact by putting the point back into the hole. - Tyler
At the moment I consider myself a very lucky turner. I am relatively new to turning, but I have lots of friends who turn. I have inherited several dry never turned blanks, turned blanks from them. I also have many logs in the backyard awaiting the processing stage of becoming a bowl blank. So to answer your question about what I have...I have 50-80 of all types/stages of bowl blanks to work. Keep up the informative videos. We all enjoy them.
Excellent step by step . I’m a novice turner. Have you ever heard of roughed turned bowl placed in a microwave to decrease moisture content quicker than the 1 year / wall thickness? Obviously not the microwave in the kitchen!
Hello Kent, today I wanna say thank you because I learned a lot by you and your videos. Great tips and always a good explanation in good quality of sound and video. I hope there will be more in future 🙂 Stay tuned and watch your health! Greetings and best regards Martin from Germany
That will be a really nice bowl in a couple years! Three mistakes I made with my first green turned Burr Oak bowl: 1. left saw dust on my band saw table when I cut the blank. 2. Left the blank in my chuck overnight. 3. Left shavings on my lathe ways overnight. Result? Tannic acid produced rust in the space of a few hours. The ways were rusted, the bandsaw table was rusted, and the chuck jaws were pitted. White Oak is incredibly corrosive. Lesson learned. Whenever I turn green white Oak, everything gets cleaned thoroughly and lightly oiled afterwards. Just rough turned a piece of cottonwood last week, its anchor sealed and sitting in the shed to rest for a few months before I'll finish turn it. Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
I rough turn most, even the small 6 or 8 inch ones. When I first started turning bowls I watched a video where the guy was coating the whole bowl in wood glue. I tried that and it worked pretty good so thats what I do. Ancorseal plus the shipping can get expensive, wood glue I can get locally. Don't know how long ancorseal will last after opening but the wood glue between bowl turning I can use as glue so it doesn't go bad on me. I just weigh them every month or so and when they stop losing weight or depending on the time of year may even gain a little they are ready to finish.
Perfect timing Kent! I had a very large (35" on stump ) Ash tree next to my house that died. Took it down, got two 8' logs for lumber. and there was one 12"+ dia limb curved like a banana so I cut into 12" long rounds. 15 rounds = 30 bowl blanks :-)- Tyler
Thanks, Kent. Good information on turning green wood. You never know, once turned, it may not take as long as you think for them to dry. A lot depends on how warm and dry the weather is and where and how you have them stored. I have some wood I need to do this with when I get the pieces cut from the downed trees. You can always fill some of the waiting time by turning dry wood from other sources, too - like pallet wood, old fences and any other dry wood you can find. Catch your next video ... your neighbor up the road.
Thank you for writing and sharing! Yes, there are many variables in the wood equalizing process. We cover them thoroughly in the Tree to Bowl - Understanding Green Wood course www.TurnAWoodBowl.com/green Up the road?? ;) Happy Turning!
Interesting to see you using a Laurel Oak. They grow in my neighborhood and are not considered to be valuable landscape trees. They grow fast, and die young. I would guess this makes it ideal for bowl turning.
Hey Kent love your channel I have learned a lot from you. Is it best to cut blank's from log's right away and store them or wait till your ready to turn?
Charles, Oh that's a loaded question that we unpack in my Tree to Bowl - Understanding Green Wood course. Check it out www.TurnAWoodBowl.com/green All the best to you and Happy Turning! Kent
Hey Kent, I am having trouble working from the bottom of the bowl up like you do when you shake the outside. I don't seem to have enough space or angle to get a bevel supported cut. The tail stock is in the way and the ten on also. Any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong?
Douglas, good question. You might need to reconsider your bevel angle. At least for one gouge to reach down to the base. See this video ruclips.net/video/o2dS0FWfLT4/видео.html All the best to you and Happy Turning!
I'm relatively new to your channel. I've never seen you use waste blocks for your tenons, why? It seems that using a waste block would allow more depth/overall size to a blank and subsequently the finished bowl than using the primary wood for the tenon, also understanding that you could always make a smaller bowl if the wood "speaks" to having a smaller size. Enjoy your explanations of what you are doing in each step, thanks for the info.
Is it possible to twice turn a live edge bowl and retain the bark? Please explain. I've tried cherry but didn't have success with the bark remaining intact. I really enjoy the bowl/vessel turning experience I've learned from you.
I have often twice turned natural edge bowls. Ash and Maple are pretty good for keeping the bark, but like you I do not have much success turning most fruit wood, cherry or apple as ether type of turning often result in cracks.
I have access to unlimited wood since I live in a forest and burn wood but it's normally dead and usually very dry. I'd like to try some green wood but I don't want to cut down a live tree.
Kent, I’ve cut a few logs of Spaltic Water Oak about 18”-22” with diameter 12”-14” about 50 days ago….. have not cut the pith out as of yet. There are some 1/8”-3/16” cracks obviously because of that…..have I ruined them? Don’t know if I should continue with pith removal and anchorseal the ends? Would you epoxy resin later after turning? …..or firewood? Thank You
Great video Kent. I was wondering though if you have a Coring system as I had the thought that you could have gotten some more bowls from that blank? Thanks for all the information you share with us.
Yes I have, but I with the amount of oak I have currently, it's a lot of effort for a small/medium bowl, so I turn instead. Now, if this were a more precious species, yes, I'd probably core out multiple bowls.
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The good thing, I found turning green,, is that it gave me the opportunity to practice different angles with the tool and also just how big a cut that I could take. I never bothered about the finish except to get it a bit decent. Roughing the inside out too and leaving the wall thickness to at least 10% of the diameter but often quite a bit thicker than that. Storing my first turned dated bowls in a unheated shed for at least 2 years often yielded many without cracking. Just a few months before I am to finish turning I bring the bowls inside to allow them to climatise I am still turning bowls dated in 2009. The best tool that I bought after years of turning was a Moisture Meter $30 from Amazon. Great investment.
Ron, Thank you for writing and sharing! It sounds like you have your process down. Well done. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Hey Kent, Let me share something I (never seen anyone else so maybe I invented something LOL) made to use with face plate.Take any suitable piece of scrap, turn a dowel about 6" long and of diameter to just fit easily through center hole of face plate. drive a screw into the center of one end, cut off with apprx 1/2" protruding. then grind to a point. Now after you mark center on your blank drive that point into your mark, then you can slide your face plate over it. This does two things it helps prevent the screw torque you mentioned but more importantly if you find the need to re-attach your face plate after you've removed it is simple and exact by putting the point back into the hole. - Tyler
Tyler, Great idea! and yes that would get you centered just perfect. Thanks for sharing! Happy Turning! Kent
I've been doing that exact same thing for some time now 😊, great minds think alike!
At the moment I consider myself a very lucky turner. I am relatively new to turning, but I have lots of friends who turn. I have inherited several dry never turned blanks, turned blanks from them. I also have many logs in the backyard awaiting the processing stage of becoming a bowl blank. So to answer your question about what I have...I have 50-80 of all types/stages of bowl blanks to work. Keep up the informative videos. We all enjoy them.
Chris, Wow! You're all set up for plenty of turning time!
All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Kent
Excellent step by step . I’m a novice turner. Have you ever heard of roughed turned bowl placed in a microwave to decrease moisture content quicker than the 1 year / wall thickness? Obviously not the microwave in the kitchen!
Oh yes, the kitchen microwave. Here you go Microwave Drying Wood Bowl Blank Woodturning Video
Hello Kent, today I wanna say thank you because I learned a lot by you and your videos. Great tips and always a good explanation in good quality of sound and video.
I hope there will be more in future 🙂
Stay tuned and watch your health!
Greetings and best regards
Martin from Germany
Glad to hear it. Thank you, Martin!!
That will be a really nice bowl in a couple years! Three mistakes I made with my first green turned Burr Oak bowl: 1. left saw dust on my band saw table when I cut the blank. 2. Left the blank in my chuck overnight. 3. Left shavings on my lathe ways overnight. Result? Tannic acid produced rust in the space of a few hours. The ways were rusted, the bandsaw table was rusted, and the chuck jaws were pitted. White Oak is incredibly corrosive. Lesson learned. Whenever I turn green white Oak, everything gets cleaned thoroughly and lightly oiled afterwards. Just rough turned a piece of cottonwood last week, its anchor sealed and sitting in the shed to rest for a few months before I'll finish turn it. Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
Well learned lessons indeed. It sounds like you remember them well. That's half the battle! Well done! All the best to you and Happy Turning!
I rough turn most, even the small 6 or 8 inch ones. When I first started turning bowls I watched a video where the guy was coating the whole bowl in wood glue. I tried that and it worked pretty good so thats what I do. Ancorseal plus the shipping can get expensive, wood glue I can get locally. Don't know how long ancorseal will last after opening but the wood glue between bowl turning I can use as glue so it doesn't go bad on me. I just weigh them every month or so and when they stop losing weight or depending on the time of year may even gain a little they are ready to finish.
Rick,
Thank you for writing and sharing!
Sounds like you have a method that works.
All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Kent
Good stuff!
Thanks!
Thanks, Kent! I appreciate your detailed explanation of your process....not just how, but why! Great video as always!
Thanks for watching Peter! Happy Turning!
Great tutorial Kent.
Glad you enjoyed it Jack! Happy Turning!
Perfect timing Kent! I had a very large (35" on stump ) Ash tree next to my house that died. Took it down, got two 8' logs for lumber. and there was one 12"+ dia limb curved like a banana so I cut into 12" long rounds. 15 rounds = 30 bowl blanks :-)- Tyler
Tyler, fantastic! Have fun turning. Ash is a subtly beautiful species to turn. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Thanks, Kent!
You are very welcome
24:25 would a flat scrap glued on top of the crack help much to limit it’s growth?
Thanks, Kent. Good information on turning green wood. You never know, once turned, it may not take as long as you think for them to dry. A lot depends on how warm and dry the weather is and where and how you have them stored. I have some wood I need to do this with when I get the pieces cut from the downed trees.
You can always fill some of the waiting time by turning dry wood from other sources, too - like pallet wood, old fences and any other dry wood you can find. Catch your next video ... your neighbor up the road.
Thank you for writing and sharing! Yes, there are many variables in the wood equalizing process. We cover them thoroughly in the Tree to Bowl - Understanding Green Wood course www.TurnAWoodBowl.com/green
Up the road?? ;) Happy Turning!
@@TurnAWoodBowl [ Up the road?? ] I live just north of Hawthorne - about 30 minutes from you ... we should meet for lunch sometime
Interesting to see you using a Laurel Oak. They grow in my neighborhood and are not considered to be valuable landscape trees. They grow fast, and die young. I would guess this makes it ideal for bowl turning.
John,
Yes it's worth trying. You can find some very nice material if you look.
All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Kent
Nice vid Kent. What a beast that is! I know it'll be gorgeous when you finish it.
Fingers crossed! Thanks and Happy Turning!
Hey Kent love your channel I have learned a lot from you. Is it best to cut blank's from log's right away and store them or wait till your ready to turn?
Charles, Oh that's a loaded question that we unpack in my Tree to Bowl - Understanding Green Wood course. Check it out www.TurnAWoodBowl.com/green All the best to you and Happy Turning! Kent
jr from west tn got a pallet of 6x6 12in long western cedar 200 pcs klin dry is the wood safe for salad bowls
Hey Kent, I am having trouble working from the bottom of the bowl up like you do when you shake the outside. I don't seem to have enough space or angle to get a bevel supported cut. The tail stock is in the way and the ten on also. Any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong?
Douglas, good question. You might need to reconsider your bevel angle. At least for one gouge to reach down to the base. See this video ruclips.net/video/o2dS0FWfLT4/видео.html All the best to you and Happy Turning!
I'm relatively new to your channel. I've never seen you use waste blocks for your tenons, why? It seems that using a waste block would allow more depth/overall size to a blank and subsequently the finished bowl than using the primary wood for the tenon, also understanding that you could always make a smaller bowl if the wood "speaks" to having a smaller size.
Enjoy your explanations of what you are doing in each step, thanks for the info.
Susan,
I'm planning on making a video on this in the future. Stay tuned!
Thanks and Happy Turning!
Kent
Is it possible to twice turn a live edge bowl and retain the bark? Please explain. I've tried cherry but didn't have success with the bark remaining intact. I really enjoy the bowl/vessel turning experience I've learned from you.
Greg, yews, but the odds of losing the bark increase a bit. It can be done. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
I have often twice turned natural edge bowls. Ash and Maple are pretty good for keeping the bark, but like you I do not have much success turning most fruit wood, cherry or apple as ether type of turning often result in cracks.
I have access to unlimited wood since I live in a forest and burn wood but it's normally dead and usually very dry. I'd like to try some green wood but I don't want to cut down a live tree.
James, sounds like the perfect environment. You can find downed wood that will work if it's not too old. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Kent, I’ve cut a few logs of Spaltic Water Oak about 18”-22” with diameter 12”-14” about 50 days ago….. have not cut the pith out as of yet. There are some 1/8”-3/16” cracks obviously because of that…..have I ruined them? Don’t know if I should continue with pith removal and anchorseal the ends? Would you epoxy resin later after turning? …..or firewood? Thank You
D, I'd try to cut the pith areas out. They will continue to crack, then I'd seal the end grain. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Great video Kent. I was wondering though if you have a Coring system as I had the thought that you could have gotten some more bowls from that blank? Thanks for all the information you share with us.
Yes I have, but I with the amount of oak I have currently, it's a lot of effort for a small/medium bowl, so I turn instead. Now, if this were a more precious species, yes, I'd probably core out multiple bowls.
@@TurnAWoodBowl oh okay, i understand and agree.
seen a guy puts a recess in the inside of the bowl to true up the tenon
Yup, that could work.
@@TurnAWoodBowl I thought it was a good idea and plan to try it out
Kent have you ever tried boiling the rough turned bowls?
I have not. That would be a BIG pot of boiling water! ;) Happy Turning!