* I urge you to double-check those torque specs! I just rebuilt the entire front end on my 03 Exploder, so it's still fresh in the ol' brainbox - according to the Haynes manual and cross-referencing, the upper control arm to frame mounting nuts should be: 111 lb-ft, the upper control arm ball joint to steering knuckle nut should be: 41 lb-ft. There isn't any reference to the torque specs for the upper control arm bushing nuts in the Haynes manual, but a few references came up as around 111-140 lb-ft. It was a pita to even get the torque wrench up onto the nuts to begin with. You can also tap out the ball-joint by the threaded end since it's being scrapped anyway - better to mash the "junk" part than the soft aluminum steering knuckle. (did that thing owe you money, bruh?!) lol
I have a 2002 explorer, haven't done these arm's yet,but had to watch👍 On my third year with it here in Nova scotia, the tin ants haven't done much damage yet,lots of undercoating. The back upper control arm's were interesting especially after figuring out ball jounts were available, much cheaper. Happy Thursday from 🇨🇦,ps I have four strut assembles to install. 👍
No problem, let me know if you have any questions on the install. Will be posting more vids soon of the same vehicle as well as a newer explorer as well.
Jessica Washington it may be possible just depends on the part that was used when they built the vehicle, ive seen both pressable and non pressable joints on the. 2000- 2010 model run for prety much all of the sister models. Aviator, explorer, mountaineer, ranger.
Did mine about Six months ago. Yes you're right the 03 mountaineer arm had welded in units and the rust on the arm themselves was terrible. One note of caution is to make sure to check the end nuts on the arms at the bushings. Mine started to come loose.
Just replaced my uppers control arms. Thanks for the video. My car only had the metal alignment bracket things on the passenger side. None on drivers side. Car pulls to the right. Paid $110 for alignment and it still pulls right. I called Ford dealer and asked if I'm supposed to have those metal brackets (pink and green square tabs) on driver and passenger side. They said they only came on one side and are SUPPOSED TO BE REMOVED COMPLETELY when replacing the upper control arms. I will have to go back and remove them and see if it corrects my alignment issues.
My alignment issues were due to my tires unevenly worn and used for 50k miles. Bought 4 new tires which fixed alignment problem. Had nothing to do with the upper control arms.
Another advantage of replacing the control arm instead of just the upper ball joint is the bushings get replaced as well. You did this job 3 years ago and if you still have the vehicle I 'd be curious as to the condition of the ball joint/boot. I am planning this job myself. If I do I will get a control arm with a greasable ball joint.
you ever find out the torque setting for those 2 bolts that control the pressure load? the 2 bolts that you tightened at the end of the video that you couldn't find the specs on before. BTW excellent video bud.
+Nick Glenn these ball joints are welded to the arm no way to press em out without destroying the arm, oddly enough on my wifes explorer it has pressable ones.
* I urge you to double-check those torque specs! I just rebuilt the entire front end on my 03 Exploder, so it's still fresh in the ol' brainbox - according to the Haynes manual and cross-referencing, the upper control arm to frame mounting nuts should be: 111 lb-ft, the upper control arm ball joint to steering knuckle nut should be: 41 lb-ft. There isn't any reference to the torque specs for the upper control arm bushing nuts in the Haynes manual, but a few references came up as around 111-140 lb-ft. It was a pita to even get the torque wrench up onto the nuts to begin with. You can also tap out the ball-joint by the threaded end since it's being scrapped anyway - better to mash the "junk" part than the soft aluminum steering knuckle. (did that thing owe you money, bruh?!) lol
My thoughts as well smashing the knuckle, had a tear,like wheel bearing install I chipped the aluminum some.
I have a 2002 explorer, haven't done these arm's yet,but had to watch👍 On my third year with it here in Nova scotia, the tin ants haven't done much damage yet,lots of undercoating. The back upper control arm's were interesting especially after figuring out ball jounts were available, much cheaper. Happy Thursday from 🇨🇦,ps I have four strut assembles to install. 👍
Getting ready to tackle my 04 aviator. just wanted to make sure there wasn't any major problems to expect. Thanks for posting this video.
No problem, let me know if you have any questions on the install. Will be posting more vids soon of the same vehicle as well as a newer explorer as well.
+Mike Balroop turns out the "credited" alignment place didn't tighten the upper control arm mounting nuts. of course they deny any wrong doing...
+Mike Balroop I have an 05 aviator, so I cannot just have the ball joint replaced?
Jessica Washington it may be possible just depends on the part that was used when they built the vehicle, ive seen both pressable and non pressable joints on the. 2000- 2010 model run for prety much all of the sister models. Aviator, explorer, mountaineer, ranger.
Ok thank you. Either way seems to be a pain in the butt 😊
Did mine about Six months ago. Yes you're right the 03 mountaineer arm had welded in units and the rust on the arm themselves was terrible.
One note of caution is to make sure to check the end nuts on the arms at the bushings. Mine started to come loose.
Oh, the hardest part was install and removal of the arms. pita
Just replaced my uppers control arms. Thanks for the video. My car only had the metal alignment bracket things on the passenger side. None on drivers side. Car pulls to the right. Paid $110 for alignment and it still pulls right. I called Ford dealer and asked if I'm supposed to have those metal brackets (pink and green square tabs) on driver and passenger side. They said they only came on one side and are SUPPOSED TO BE REMOVED COMPLETELY when replacing the upper control arms. I will have to go back and remove them and see if it corrects my alignment issues.
Did removing the pink and green spacers help with your alignment??? Thanks
My alignment issues were due to my tires unevenly worn and used for 50k miles. Bought 4 new tires which fixed alignment problem. Had nothing to do with the upper control arms.
Great video thank you
great job
Thank you for your support!
Factory control arms are welded.... Aftermarket control arms are pressed
thanks was wondering cuz ebay parts say a lot only fit aftermarket
Another advantage of replacing the control arm instead of just the upper ball joint is the bushings get replaced as well. You did this job 3 years ago and if you still have the vehicle I 'd be curious as to the condition of the ball joint/boot. I am planning this job myself. If I do I will get a control arm with a greasable ball joint.
Surprisingly the arm is in great condition boot is still intact as well, paint has held up well also.
you ever find out the torque setting for those 2 bolts that control the pressure load? the 2 bolts that you tightened at the end of the video that you couldn't find the specs on before. BTW excellent video bud.
great detailed video
great video
+clebervic thanks!
Chrome sockets on an impact.. I to Ike to live dangerously.
Cool story
Still use my 10 year old chrome sockets on my impact. Shut up
2002-2005 you mean. 2001 and below is diffrent. They use the older camber bolts
Ummmmm .... You can press those ball joints out in half the time and save yourself an alignment job also.
+Nick Glenn these ball joints are welded to the arm no way to press em out without destroying the arm, oddly enough on my wifes explorer it has pressable ones.
+Mike Balroop just did mine ... came right out and new ones pressed in perfectly
Nick Glenn
Nick Glenn was there a clip on top of yours bcz mine does not
Really I just had my done about 30 minutes ago and if they would have pressed them I wouldn't need alinement
41 ft lbs. is Fords torque spec, not 76
your "bolts" look just like nutz
Sorry, we all make mistakes im only human
what happened to your hat?
Jajaja estaba apretando