These symptoms describe the issues I have been increasingly experiencing - thank you! Now I need to see it is just one of them or both. Great description of the issues on this video!
@@autoinfogroup1629 Well I just finished installing new struts and that was needlessly difficult lol. The sleeves the struts needs to sit in has to be pried open so they can slide in. Had to jerry rig the bolt that tightens the sleave and thread it in from the opposite side with a spanner in the gap to push the sleeve open so the strut can slide in. That took me about 4 hours of hammering my wheel hub to figure out. Also I don't have a hydraulic press to take off the old bushings so I'll have to redneck them off somehow.
Trust me, brother, if I can do it, you can do it. Main thing is have all the new parts ready to go before you start and “take your time”. People will tell you that you might kill yourself if that coil spring pops out at you because they don’t know what they’re doing. if that’s one of the parts you are replacing , jack the car up beyond the point that the coil spring is fully extended and it might just drop out. If you have any doubt, ALWAYS get a second opinion.
I just did mine yesterday😂 I have a 97 Chevy Tahoe and even the parts guy said there's two different lower ball joints you get both of them just in case.. Broke both of the ball joints trying to press them in because they were the wrong ones too big there was an elusive third one that was the smallest that was actually for my truck.. If you have a 97 Chevy four-wheel drive Tahoe like me and you're changing the upper ball joints you will need a very good metal drill bit. To drill out the rivets from the factory on the upper ball joint.. And a way to cut off the head of the upper ball joints first rivets first. I'm a handyman so I used my cut off tool with a metal cutting blade.. Not as fast as a spinning grinding metal cut off wheel or whatever but it worked.. By the way if you have my vehicle it's 5/16 drill bit.. And when you're drilling metal the trick is to apply adequate pressure and drill slow if you drill fast and start smoking the bit your bit is toast.. And if you plan on changing your hub bearing since you're going in there anyway just know if it's an old vehicle like mine you're probably not going to be able to get off the three bolts that hold it on to the knuckle I tried and broke a Craftsman's 9/16 th socket.. You're either going to want to go to a shop where they have the compressor that vibrates those bolts loose or you can buy a new knuckle also that way you don't have to remove the bolts.. Plan it out and do all your research and take your time don't do like me panic out😂 I got it done but it took 2 days and I worked like 20 hours thought I was going to faint at the end from exhaustion😂 I'm usually smarter than that and take my time but with the satanic government and all the stuff that's about to go down I was freaking out knowing that I had to wait another day to finish it up.
Just some helpful tips since I just did mine I have a Tahoe 97 four-wheel drive 5.7.. Without a air compressor racket set it's almost impossible to get the bolts from the wheel hub bearing off of the knuckle(but you don't have to remove that anyway unless you're changing the wheel hub bearing) I broke a 9/16 Craftsman socket trying to get them apart.. And if you have my vehicle you'll need at least one 5/16 very good metal drilling bit to drill out the factory rivets from the upper ball joint.. Just a note when you're drilling metal apply pressure and drill slow that's how you drill metal if you go fast and start smoking the bit it's toast.. Even looking online and at the auto parts basically they said there's two different lower ball joints and I should get both because you can't tell which one it is until you doing.. So after looking around online and everything I figured it was the smallest one so i tried that one first and broke it tried the second one broke it... ended up both of them being too big and the wrong ones... it was an elusive third one that was around 45 mm that is for my truck on the driver side.. That one started going in fine except for the last 8th of an inch and then I realized the ball joint press they gave me didn't have enough room for the head of the ball joint to actually go up where it's supposed to be because the press machine was not built right.. The way I got it all the way in was I took two Allen wrenches and put on both sides of the press for spacers to leave more room so the head could pop up where it's supposed to be.. Now I see why he said we don't have that ball joint press kit but we have one that will probably work😂
Hi, I have slight steering wheel vibration at every speed but it’s not constant, it varies, sometimes only at highway speeds and sometimes even at lower speeds. The steering wheel has some play in it and sometimes it feels as the wheel is misaligned but not always, it varies. I also feel that the wheel wobbles. Could it be the control arm or is it a steering rack problem? Thanks
Lowr arm can cause misaligned steering wheel and excess tire wear but vibration is less chance. Do check the bearing and balance the tires also check if the tires are in good condition.
@@autoinfogroup1629 Is it best to go ahead and replace the control arm, ball joints and tie rods ends since my car has over 200,000 miles? I've never replaced those and plus I don't want to get one done then will eventually have to pay out more money if the others wear out later down the line.
Yes it's better to replace as whole bcs the rubber bushing will become hard as time goes n will eventually break. If it's more than 8 years or more than 150k miles it's good to change. Also the joints might be worn enough and with limited grease as well.
hi! i know my thrust arms on my bmw need replacement. got the appointment thsi week. the thing that bothers me the most is the wandering. the wheel often rotates left/right and i need to counter it. will it solve the problem? it is a wishbone shaped arm eith the bushing (they are leaking oil and 100% need replacement. left front bushing is super worn. tire is also staying a bit forward is not centrred in the wheel like the roght side) can you recommend me other things i should check? thank you very much!
Like said the lower arms needs a replacement and additionally, check the steering rack for preload adjustments. If its too off, vehicle won't stay straight.
I was told to replace it immediately, as I was planning to do a lot of highway/high speed driving. This should allow you to avoid an accident and costly tow services.
My truck vibrates intensely when I brake at 60mph+ but not on city speeds. Dealership said it was my brakes so got my rotors and pads replaced warped rotors but the problem wasn’t solved. A mechanic friend said my lower control arm bushings have play in them but dealership disagrees - could it be due to the lower control arm?
I just put a new drive and to fit the drive i had jeck the engine a bit so icould fit the drive shaft in its place after my i notice it setting on suspension what the cause of that .its a v50 2.4 wagon volvo please help.
I honestly feel like it’s not too bad as long as it’s the front arms cause when your going fast the weight is in the back of the suspension mostly. Just watch out for bumps 😬. Also I notice you put this a month ago? Any updates, if not I’m going to assume you died because of it.
Hi! I have recently started to experience a pull while braking. Braking gently does not cause anything. control arm likely needs replacing but what else?
How do i buy it, for my lincoln mkx, i need the rear ones, but that i find is the front ones, i need them really bad, if someone can help i would appreciate it
A wander can be of different reasons, uneven tire wear, too much deviation in camber angles, rolling resistance due to grabbing brakes or bearings, tire profile defects etc...
I need to do my control arm on a Mercedes, my camber off and Mercedes you need special bolts or replace arms, that’s what I’m doing but this video shows me nothing
And the sixth and final symptom is when you look out your rear view mirror and see your control arm sitting on the road behind you......
😮😮😮😂
😂😂
😂😂😂😂😮😅
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Damn right
I hate it when that happens
FINALLY A VIDEO THAT EXPLAINS EVERYTHING GOING ON WITH MY CAR. JESUS H CHRIST. GOD BLESS YOU SIR FOR UPLOADING THIS VIDEO.
Crazy how ive experienced this for months and now my car is getting that very same thing fixed and here I am watching a video lol
These symptoms describe the issues I have been increasingly experiencing - thank you! Now I need to see it is just one of them or both. Great description of the issues on this video!
Thanks n glad to hear from you mate.
You better off changing both
It's recommended to change both
This is the exact information I was looking for, thank you very much. Now I know.
Good video so thats the reason my car was steering right for no reason
I have all of these symptoms 😮. I bought new bushings and ball joints. Just need to work up the courage to replace them as it looks pretty tough.
Just hold on to and do it... once you've done...may think it was that easy.
@@autoinfogroup1629 Well I just finished installing new struts and that was needlessly difficult lol. The sleeves the struts needs to sit in has to be pried open so they can slide in. Had to jerry rig the bolt that tightens the sleave and thread it in from the opposite side with a spanner in the gap to push the sleeve open so the strut can slide in. That took me about 4 hours of hammering my wheel hub to figure out. Also I don't have a hydraulic press to take off the old bushings so I'll have to redneck them off somehow.
Trust me, brother, if I can do it, you can do it. Main thing is have all the new parts ready to go before you start and “take your time”.
People will tell you that you might kill yourself if that coil spring pops out at you because they don’t know what they’re doing.
if that’s one of the parts you are replacing , jack the car up beyond the point that the coil spring is fully extended and it might just drop out. If you have any doubt, ALWAYS get a second opinion.
I just did mine yesterday😂 I have a 97 Chevy Tahoe and even the parts guy said there's two different lower ball joints you get both of them just in case..
Broke both of the ball joints trying to press them in because they were the wrong ones too big there was an elusive third one that was the smallest that was actually for my truck..
If you have a 97 Chevy four-wheel drive Tahoe like me and you're changing the upper ball joints you will need a very good metal drill bit. To drill out the rivets from the factory on the upper ball joint..
And a way to cut off the head of the upper ball joints first rivets first. I'm a handyman so I used my cut off tool with a metal cutting blade..
Not as fast as a spinning grinding metal cut off wheel or whatever but it worked..
By the way if you have my vehicle it's 5/16 drill bit..
And when you're drilling metal the trick is to apply adequate pressure and drill slow if you drill fast and start smoking the bit your bit is toast..
And if you plan on changing your hub bearing since you're going in there anyway just know if it's an old vehicle like mine you're probably not going to be able to get off the three bolts that hold it on to the knuckle I tried and broke a Craftsman's 9/16 th socket..
You're either going to want to go to a shop where they have the compressor that vibrates those bolts loose or you can buy a new knuckle also that way you don't have to remove the bolts..
Plan it out and do all your research and take your time don't do like me panic out😂
I got it done but it took 2 days and I worked like 20 hours thought I was going to faint at the end from exhaustion😂
I'm usually smarter than that and take my time but with the satanic government and all the stuff that's about to go down I was freaking out knowing that I had to wait another day to finish it up.
Just some helpful tips since I just did mine I have a Tahoe 97 four-wheel drive 5.7..
Without a air compressor racket set it's almost impossible to get the bolts from the wheel hub bearing off of the knuckle(but you don't have to remove that anyway unless you're changing the wheel hub bearing) I broke a 9/16 Craftsman socket trying to get them apart..
And if you have my vehicle you'll need at least one 5/16 very good metal drilling bit to drill out the factory rivets from the upper ball joint..
Just a note when you're drilling metal apply pressure and drill slow that's how you drill metal if you go fast and start smoking the bit it's toast..
Even looking online and at the auto parts basically they said there's two different lower ball joints and I should get both because you can't tell which one it is until you doing..
So after looking around online and everything I figured it was the smallest one so i tried that one first and broke it tried the second one broke it...
ended up both of them being too big and the wrong ones...
it was an elusive third one that was around 45 mm that is for my truck on the driver side..
That one started going in fine except for the last 8th of an inch and then I realized the ball joint press they gave me didn't have enough room for the head of the ball joint to actually go up where it's supposed to be because the press machine was not built right..
The way I got it all the way in was I took two Allen wrenches and put on both sides of the press for spacers to leave more room so the head could pop up where it's supposed to be..
Now I see why he said we don't have that ball joint press kit but we have one that will probably work😂
This just what my car is doing thanks for the video
The same symptoms i experienced with my car and today fixed it 😊😊
Glad to hear from you mate...
How much fid it cost you?
@@Ccxbbs rubber bush for both sides ( each side 2 ) cost around 40 usd
Short and straight forward...thanks a lot❤❤
Glad to hear from you mate 😊
This video was very helpful!!!!
It will cause torque-steer as well.
This is helpful.
Thank you very much
really great video
Thank you.
That's why you should visit you mechanic from time to time and tell him what anomalies you're experiencing while driving
Very helpful.
detailed explanation, thank you.
Anytime mate.
Okay and just type it in and type in like this is what this is what I got right here
Thank you for this
Hi, I have slight steering wheel vibration at every speed but it’s not constant, it varies, sometimes only at highway speeds and sometimes even at lower speeds. The steering wheel has some play in it and sometimes it feels as the wheel is misaligned but not always, it varies. I also feel that the wheel wobbles. Could it be the control arm or is it a steering rack problem? Thanks
Lowr arm can cause misaligned steering wheel and excess tire wear but vibration is less chance. Do check the bearing and balance the tires also check if the tires are in good condition.
@@autoinfogroup1629 will this problem cause a bumpy ride? Or is that more of a bushing problem? Thanks
Any worn ball joints less likely cause bumpy rides, a bad tire, worn shock absorber or bushing does cause the said problem.
@@autoinfogroup1629 Is it best to go ahead and replace the control arm, ball joints and tie rods ends since my car has over 200,000 miles? I've never replaced those and plus I don't want to get one done then will eventually have to pay out more money if the others wear out later down the line.
Yes it's better to replace as whole bcs the rubber bushing will become hard as time goes n will eventually break. If it's more than 8 years or more than 150k miles it's good to change. Also the joints might be worn enough and with limited grease as well.
Very informative .
hi! i know my thrust arms on my bmw need replacement. got the appointment thsi week. the thing that bothers me the most is the wandering. the wheel often rotates left/right and i need to counter it.
will it solve the problem? it is a wishbone shaped arm eith the bushing (they are leaking oil and 100% need replacement. left front bushing is super worn. tire is also staying a bit forward is not centrred in the wheel like the roght side)
can you recommend me other things i should check? thank you very much!
Like said the lower arms needs a replacement and additionally, check the steering rack for preload adjustments. If its too off, vehicle won't stay straight.
How long is it safe to drive the vehicle for when all symptoms are showing ?
Better fix it soon...not fixing it mean more tire wear and may be more suspension parts to get affected.
I was told to replace it immediately, as I was planning to do a lot of highway/high speed driving. This should allow you to avoid an accident and costly tow services.
My truck vibrates intensely when I brake at 60mph+ but not on city speeds. Dealership said it was my brakes so got my rotors and pads replaced warped rotors but the problem wasn’t solved. A mechanic friend said my lower control arm bushings have play in them but dealership disagrees - could it be due to the lower control arm?
Hi, yes that could be a bad lower control arm. Also other reasons include, bad bearing setup or bearing itself, bent hub etc..
I just put a new drive and to fit the drive i had jeck the engine a bit so icould fit the drive shaft in its place after my i notice it setting on suspension what the cause of that .its a v50 2.4 wagon volvo please help.
Perfectly explained
Thanks mate...
Hye,my rear tyre keep worn inside,when check,the rear lower arm bush move,is that will effect my tyre
I guess I shouldn't be doing 170mph in my AMG when I have bad control arms
I honestly feel like it’s not too bad as long as it’s the front arms cause when your going fast the weight is in the back of the suspension mostly. Just watch out for bumps 😬. Also I notice you put this a month ago? Any updates, if not I’m going to assume you died because of it.
@gbizzle201 front wheels take huge amount of weight when stopping amd turning
Hi! I have recently started to experience a pull while braking. Braking gently does not cause anything. control arm likely needs replacing but what else?
This normally happens when lowerarm bushing starts to break.
How do i buy it, for my lincoln mkx, i need the rear ones, but that i find is the front ones, i need them really bad, if someone can help i would appreciate it
Does one bad control arm wears both tires out? I change the left side which has a play does this mean it will stop both of the the tires uneven wears?
Yes that's correct
No only the wheel on that control arm
But it might be that you camber is out or your bushing might be bad
So not necessarily a bad control arm
Super 👍
How much is this to replace on my range rover sport 2008 hse ?
Over nine thousand eeuaghhhh
Hello, how can i contact you about the business cooperation?
Hi there, feel free to contact us at "autoinfogroup.reach@gmail.com". Thanks
Haven’t you notice all ate left handed 😂
Sir Mera age ke do no tyare andar
Chale gaye hai or tyare bhi utar rahe he to kya karu
Great video
Thanks mate
so thats the clunk noise it makes when i launch
Most probably 😊
Weird I went to the dealer to fix a wander and they said this is just how my car is now 🤨?!!!!
A wander can be of different reasons, uneven tire wear, too much deviation in camber angles, rolling resistance due to grabbing brakes or bearings, tire profile defects etc...
I need to do my control arm on a Mercedes, my camber off and Mercedes you need special bolts or replace arms, that’s what I’m doing but this video shows me nothing
👍
😁😁
Helpful video, but please dump the AI narrator
This video would be good if the narrator wasn’t a robot Karen.
😅😅
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it